'tm. 


1 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


^ 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


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BOSTOIV  1831. 


T^int; 


i-veacL. 


THE 

POLAR    REGIONS 

OF     THE 

WESTERN     CONTINENT     EXPLORED  ; 

SMBRACIIiO    A 

GEOGRAPHICAL  ACCOUNT 

oy 
ICELAND,   GREENLAND,   THE   ISLANDS    OF   THE  FROZEN   SEA, 

AND     THE 

NORTHERN  PARTS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT, 

INCLUDING 

A   PARTICULAR     DESCRIPTION    OF    THE     COUNTRIES,   THE    SEAS,     IN- 
HABITANTS,   AND  ANIMALS  OF  THOSE  PARTS  OF  THE    WORLD  ; 
ALSO,  A    MINUTE    ACCOUNT    OF   THE    WHALE    FISHERIES, 
AND    THE    DANGERS  ATTENDING  THEM  ; 

WITH    REMARKABLE    ADVENTURES    OF    SOME    OF    THE     WHALE    FISHERS, 

DESCRIPTIONS    OF    MOUNT    HECLA,   AND    THE    OTHER 

VOLCANOES     OF     ICELAND  : 


Together  with  the 
ADVENTURES,  DISCOVERIES,  DANGERS  AND  TIUALS 

OF 

PARRY,  FRANKLIN,  LYON,  AND  OTHER  NAVIGATORS, 

IN    THOSE    REGIONS. 


BY     TT.  J.  SNELLING, 

AUTHOR     OF    'TALES    OF     THE     NORTHWEST.^ 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  A  MAP  AND  ENGEAVINGS. 


BOSTON: 
PRINTED    FOR  W.   W.    REED. 

1831. 


j«    IT    REMK  *  ^hat  O.A    •.. 

in  the  Fifty-fifth  y ,  .le  Independent,  ,e^lc^, 

Samuel  G.  Goodrich,   .     tlie  said  District,  *  isueu  ii»  itu„  v   Bee  the 

Title  of  a  Book,  the  Right  whereof  he  claims  as  ^Jiopiietor,  in  the  words  fol- 
lowing, to  wit : 

"  The  Polar  Regions  of  the  Western  Continent  exj)lored,  embracing  a  geo- 
graphical account  of  Iceland,  Greenland,  the  Islands  of  the  Frozen  Sea,  and 
the  northern  parts  of  the  American  Continent,  including  a  particular  descrip- 
tion of  'le  Countries,  the  Seas,  Inhabitants,  and  Animals  of  those  parts  of 
th«  d;  also  -     linr      account  of  the  Whale  Fisheries,  and  the  dangers 

fhe  '  narkable  adventures  of  some   of  the  whale  fishera, 

T^  ecla,  and  the  other  volcanoes  of  Iceland  :  together 

.coveries,  dangers  and  trials  of  Parry,  Franklin,  Lyon 
^  thr  3  regions.  By  W.  J.  Snelling,  author  of  **  Tales 
d  by  a  JVJap  and  Engravings." 
jf  th^  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled 
jment  of  Ifearning,  by  securing  the  copies  gf  Maps, 
authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the 
'  and  ^iso  to  an  Act  entitled  "An  Act  supplemen- 
in  Act  lor  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  secur- 
Charis  and  Books  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of 
imes  therein  mentioned  ^^and  extending  the  benefits 
asigning,  en?'-"-        %i\d  Hch'mg  historical  and  other 
.  ,  f . 

of      .   District  of  Massachusetts. 


PREFACE.  / 


Long  prefaces  are  seldom  read,  and  therefore  the  author, 
or  rather  compiler,  of  the  following  pages  will  confine  his  re- 
marks to  an  explanation  of  the  plan  and  scope  of  his  work. 

The  data  from  which  our  knowledge  of  the  northern  regions 
is  derived  are  already  before  the  world.  Crantz  has  made  us 
acquainted  with  Greenland,  Parry  with  the  northeastern  coast 
of  this  continent,  and  Franklin  with  the  interior.  Yet  the  re- 
sults of  their  labors  are  preserved  in  a  form  which  precludes  the 
majority  of  readers  from  profiting  by  their  observations.  The 
voyages  of  Captain  Parry,  for  example,  as  they  have  heretofore 
been  published,  fill  several  large  volumes,  a  i  the  same  may  be 
said  of  the  travels  of  Captain  Franklin  and  his  coadjutors. 

The  object  of  this  work,  therefore,  is,  as  its  title  implies,  to 
give  the  reader  a  condensed  account  o^  wn  of  the 

northern  regions  of  the  new  world,  frornts.    Reykia-n-      '    J.  au- 
thorities.    To  this  end  the  compiler  has  availed  hi'^se       t' t' •* 
writings  of  Henderso  »,  Crantz,  Parry,  Franklin,  Rk, 
Kotzebue,  and  oiii'TS,       1,  in  mmy  instances,  has  '**"i!i^ 

very  words.  He  does  not  pretend  to  say  all  that  may  be  said, 
nor  to  record  every  advcx  .^  e  of  the  enterprising  traveller,  but 
he  trusts  that  he  has  omittt  ^^  lothing  essential  to  a  knowle  j^e 
of  the  regions  he  describes,  as  far  as  they  are  known.  Whatev- 
er has  appeared  to  him  worthy  of  commemoration,  he  has  set 
down ;  but  unimportant  details  have  been  omitted. 

Whether  the  task  prescribed  in  these  premises  has  been  well 
or  ill  performed,  it  is  certain  that  no  work  on  this  plan,  or  un- 
dertaken with  the  same  object,  has  yet  appeared.  Such  as  the 
book  is,  it  is  now  presented  to  those  by  whom  it  must  be  judged. 


P345411 


*1 


aul 


.<^ 


CONTENTS. 


ICELAND. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Of  the  Geographical  Situation  of  Iceland. — Its  Discovery  and  Colonization. — 
Patriarchal  Government  of  the  early  Settlers. — The  Icelandic  RepubUc. — 
Its  Government.— Code  of  Ulfliot. — Code  of  Bergthor. — The  Jonsbok. — 
Conversion  of  the  Icelanders. — Subjugation  of  Iceland  to  Norway. — Legal 
Punishments. — Present  Government  of  Iceland. — Attempted  Revolution 
in  1805. Page  1 

CHAPTER    II. 

Geologic  Character  of  Iceland. — Volcanoes  and  Ice  Mountains. — Mount  Hecla. 
— Eruption  of  Skaptar  Yokul. — Its  Consequences. — Skaptar  Yokul.        9 

CHAPTER  III. 

Situation  of  the  Geysers. — Description  of  the  Great  Geyser. — Its  Eruption. — 
The  Strockr. — The  Old  Strockr. — The  little  Geyser. — Hot  springs  at  va- 
rious Places. — Mountains. — Oraefa  Yokul. — Crater  of  Krabla.        -      17 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  cave  of  Surtshellir. — Towns  and  Settlements.  Reykiavik  Videy. — Dru- 
idical  Circle  at  Thingvalla. — Holum. — Akur  Egri. — Population  of  Ice- 
land.— Religion  and  Form  of  Church  Government. — Clergy. — Education. 
— School  at  Bessastad. — Icelandic  Literature. — Runic  Poetry. — Death  Song 
of  Regner  Lodbrok, 24 

CHAPTER  V. 

Personal  Appearance  of  the  Icelanders. — Character,  Language,  and  Literature. 
— Dress  of  the  Males. — Dress  of  the  Females.  -  -        -        34 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Cold  in  Iceland.— Polar  Ice. — Winter. — Summer. — The  Fishery. — Summer, 
Occupation  of  the  Icelanders. — Occupation  of  the  Women. — Treatment  of 
Strangers. — Pastoral  Life. — Houses  of  the  Icelanders. — A  Winter  Eve- 
ning in  Iceland. — Horses. — Reindeer. — Visit  to  the  Trading  Houses. — 
Exports  and  Imports.  ------        41 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Miscellaneous  Particulars. — Of  the  Mineral  Kingdom  in  Iceland. — Veget»» 
bles. — Drift  Wood. — Sketch  of  Spitzbergen.  -  -  -       50 


yi  CONTENTS. 


GREENLAND. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  Grcographic  Features  of  the  Coast  of  Greenland. — Of  the  Western 

Coast. — Of  the  Eastern  Coast. — Fredericshaab. — The  Ice  Blink. — Gothaab 

Disko  Bay. — Lievely.  -  -  -  -  -  -     57 

CHAPTER   n. 

Of  the  Polar  Ice. — Changes  in  its  Position. — Its  present  Position. — Technical 
Names  of  the  different  Kinds  of  Ice. — Dangers  from  Icebergs. — Manner  of 
taking  the  Whale.  ...  -  -  -  65 

CHAPTER  III. 

Early  History  of  the  Whale  Fishery. — Of  the  Manner  in  which  a  Whale 
Ship  is  manned.-— The  Crow's  Nest. — Whale  Boats. — Implements  used  in 
the  Whale  Fishery. — Whale  Killing. — Danger  of  Striking.  -  77 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Farther  Account  of  Whale  Killing. — Length  of  Time  required  to  kill  a  Whale. 
— Character  of  the  Whalemen. — Anecdotes  of  the  Greenland  Fishery.     82 

CHAPTER  V. 

Account  of  the  Discovery  of  Greenland. — Early  History. — America  discovered 
by  Icelanders. — Greenlandic  Colony  in  America. — First  Appearance  of  the 
Esquimaux. — Black  Death  and  Loss  of  Greenland, — 'Attempts  at  Redis- 
covery  and  Recolonization. — Greenland  recolonized  by  Hans  Egede.        89 

CHAPTER  VL 

Climate  of  Greenland. — Seasons  and  Weather. — Length  of  Days  and  Nights. — 
Flora  of  Greenland. — Greenlandic  Gardens. — General  Remarks. — Voyage 
of  Captain  Ross.  ,-....  96 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Of  the  Uskees,  or  Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Greenland. — Their  physical 

,     Characteristics. — Dress. — Their  Relations  with    other  Tribes. — Progress 

in  Religion  and  Civilization. — Intercourse  with  Europeans. — Knowledge  in 

Trade.— Form  of  Society.  .....  104 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Occupations  of  the  Uskees. — Uses  of  the  Whale. — Manner  of  spending 
the  Winter. — Manner  of  spending  the  Summer.-»-Manner  of  catching 
Seals. — Enjoyments  of  the  Uskees. — Language..  -  -  .111 


CONTENTS.  Vll 


CAPTAIN    PARRY'S    FIRST    VOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 
Object  of  Parry's  First  Voyage. — Equipment  of  the  Expedition. — Passage  up 
Davis's  Straits. — ^Embarrassment  in  the  Ice.  -  -  -       119 

CHAPTER    II. 

Farther  Detention  in  the  Ice.— n^hales. — Arrival  at  Lancaster's  Sound. — 
Land  about  Possession  Bay. — New  Lands  discovered. — The  Vessels  are 
again  stopped  by  the  Ice.  -  -  -  -  -  129 

CHAPTER    III. 

Cape  Seppings  discovered. — ^Near  Approach  to  the  Magnetic  Pole. — Unfa- 
vorable Position  of  the  Ice. — Appearance  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. — Port 
Bowen.  ..-_.--.     136 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Appearance  of  the  Land  about  Jackson's  Bay. — Favorable  Prospect  to  the 
"Westward. — Gasco3me's  Inlet  discovered. — Farther  Discoveries. — Bar- 
row's Strait.  .......         144 

CHAPTER  V. 

Further  Progress  of  the  Expedition. — New  Discoveries. — Bathurst's  Island. — 
Novel  Expedient  in  Navigation .  ....  148 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Some  Description  of  the  Shores  of  Melville  Island. — The  Ships'  Companies 
win  the  Premium  for  penetrating  to  Longitude  110°  West  from  Green- 
wich.— Bay  of  the  Hecla  and  Griper. — Farther  Proceedings. — Loss  and 
Sujfferings  of  a  Hunting  Party.  ....  155 

CHAPTER  VII. 
The  Ships  return  to  the  Bay  of  the  Hecla  and  Griper,  and  take  up  a  Po- 
sition for  the  Winter. — Proceedings  at  Winter  Harbor. — Internal  Ar- 
rangements of  the  Ships.  -----         161 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

Mode  of  serving  out  Provisions  and  Fuel. — Theatre. — Weekly  Newspaper. — 
Emigration  of  the  Reindeer. — A  White  Bear. — Intense  Cold.  168 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Opening  of  the  Theatre. — Wolves  and  White  Foxes. — Measures  to  obviate 
the  Effects  of  the  Cold.— Mode  of  Passing  the  Time.  175 


Tin  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Scenery  of  Winter  Harbour. — Optical  Deception. — Employments  of  Offi- 
cers and  Men. — Theatrical  Entertainments. — Night  and  Day.  180 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Christmas. — Scurvy  breaks  out  on  board  the  Hecla. — Extreme  Cold. — The 
Sun  seen. — Conflagration  on  Shore. — Extraordinary  Accumulation  of 
Vapor. — Sudden  Change  of  Weather.  -  -  -  187 

CHAPTEITXII. 
Return  of  the  Migratory  Animals  to  Melville  Island. — Snow  Blindness. — 
The  Hecla  freed  from  the  Ice. — Gardening. — Journey  to  explore  Mel- 
ville Island. -      193 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Progress  of  the  Season. — State  of  the  Ice. — Damage  received  by  the  Rud- 
ders of  the  Ships.  >...-_  199 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

A  Boat  passes  between  the  Ships  and  the  Shore, — Maximum  Heat  at  Mel- 
ville Island. — The  Vessels  are  made  ready  for  Departure. — They 
weigh  Anchor. — Departure  from  Winter  Harbour. — Are  stopped  by  the 
Ice. — Description  of  a  Part  of  the  Shore.  .  .  _         205 

CHAPTER    XV. 

Dangerous  Position  of  the  Hecla. — Submarine  Ice. — Curious  Wall. — Dan- 
ger of  the  Griper. — A  Whale  seen. — Discovery  of  Banks's  Land. — De- 
tention by  the  Ice. — A  Musk-Ox  killed. — The  Ice  closes  on  the  Shore. 

...  -  212 

CHAPTER   XVI. 

Average  Thickness  of  the  Ice. — Observations  on  the  State  of  the  Ice. — 
Farther  Detention. — Appearances  of  this  Part  of  Melville  Island. — 
Great  Peril  of  the  Griper. — The  Griper  ordered  to  retrograde.  219 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Hecla  moves  again. — Position  of  the  Ships. — They  move  to  the 
Eastward. — Abandonment  of  the  Westward  Course. — Musk  Oxen. — 
Retrograde  Passage.  ......     224 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Ships  explore  the  West  Shore  of  Baffin's  Bay. — Meet  Vessels  from  Eng- 
land.— Esquimaux  at  the  river  Clyde. — Their  Behaviour.  -  230 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Intercourse  with  the  Esquimaux. — Manner  of  Embarking  and  Disembarking 
in  Canoes. — Esquimaux  Tents. — Mode  of  Barter. — Stature  arid  Appearance 
of  the  Esquimaux  ......  236 


CONTENTS.  IX 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Dress  of  the  Esquimaux. — Description  of  their  Tents. — Description  of  their 
Canoes. — Implements  used  in  the  Fishery. — Their  Sledges. — Esquimaux 
Dogs. — Their  Voracity. — Household  Economy.  -  -^  244 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Farther  Particulars  respecting  the  Esquimaux. — Their  Number. — Health. 
— Demeanour. — Return  of  the  Expedition  to  England.  -  250 


CAPTAIN   PARRY'S    SECOND    VOYAGE. 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Hecla  and  Fury  fitted  out. — They  reach  Davis's  Strait. — Difficulties 
in  the  Ice. — The  Ships  are  visited  by  Esquimaux. — Their  Behaviour.  254 

CHAPTER  II. 

Offensive  Conduct  of  the  Esquimaux. — Description  of  the  Savage  Islands. 
— Ships  make  the  Coast  of  Labrador. — More  Esquimaux.  -       260 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Ships  make  the  Northern  Land,  Southampton  Island,  Frozen  Strait. — 
The  Ice  begins  to  make. — The  Ship  gets  into  Winter  duarters. — Shrimps. 
— Foxes. — A  Theatre  is  opened. — The  Northern  Lights.        -  -  263 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Repulse  Bay. — Frozen  Strait. — Captain  Lyon  makes  a  Journey. — Appearance 
of  the  Coast. — Interview  with  a  Party  of  Esquimaux.  -  -    269 

CHAPTER  V. 

Ice  begins  to  make. — The  Ships  get  into  Winter  Quarters. — Shrimps. — Foxes. 
— A  Theatre  opened. — Northern  Lights. — Esquimaux.  -  r  278 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Esquimaux  visit  the  Ships. — Wolves. — More  Particulars  relating  to  th« 
Esquimaux. — Manner  of  constructing  Snow  Huts.  -  -         285 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Esquimaux. — ^Musical  Concert. — An  Esquimau  whipped  for  Theft. — Starva- 
tion.— Captain  Parry  accompanies  a  Sealing  Party.  -  -        294 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Danger  of  the  Seal  Hunters. — A  Seal  Hole. — Maimer  of  Watching  Seal 
Holes. — Manner  of  Catching  Seals  and  Walrusses. — Another  Instance  of 
Theft. — Ferocity  of  the  Wolf. — Esquimaux  Dwellings. — Seals  killed. — 
Seal  Butchery.— Seals. 300 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    IX.  flP^ 

Health  of  the  Esquimaux. — Their  envious  Disposition. — Captain  Lyon's 
Journey. — Removal  of  Esquimaux,  «fec. — Captain  Parry  lodges  with 
the  Savages.  .-..-..       307 

CHAPTER   X. 

Particulars  respecting  the  Esquimaux. — Dissection  of  the  Seal. — Prepara- 
tions for  Departure. — Behaviour  of  a  sick  Savage.  -  -    313 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Captain  Lyon's  Journey. — Departure  of  the  Esquimaux. — Progress  of  the 
Season. — The  Ships  put  to  Sea. — Description  of  Winter  Island. — Ca- 
taract on  Barrow's  River. — Walrusses  killed. — The  Ships  reach  Igloo- 
lik. — Igloolik  and  other  Islands. — Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla.       319 

CHAPTER   Xn. 

Physical  Character  of  the  Esquimaux.— Costume. — Female  Avocations. — 
Sledges,  Dogs,  Weapons,  &c. — Manner  of  killing  Deer  and  Musk 
Oxen. 329 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Travelling. — Marriages. — Treatment  of  Children. — Theology. — Honesty. — 
Beggary. — Ingratitude. — Hospitality. — Lying  and  Slander. — Courage. — 
The  Ships  return  to  England.  -----    336 


CAPTAIN  PARRY^S  THIRD  VOYAGE. 

The  Ships  leave  England,  and  arrive  at  Disko  Island. — The  Ice  crossed. — 
Arrival  at  Lancaster's  Sound. — Port  Bowen. — Aurora  Borealis. — Ani- 
mals.— Farther  Proceedings. — The  Fury  wrecked. — Return  to  Eng- 
land.   •.34a 


CAPTAIN  FRANKLIN'S  TRAVELS. 

CHAPTER    I. 

Object  of  Captain  Franklin's  Journey. — His  Instructions. — Captain  Franklin 
arrives  at  Hudson's  Bay. — York  Factory. — Swampy  Crees.-— Departure 
from  York  Factory.— Tracking. — Indian  Anecdote, — Steel  River.— -Route 
of  the  pojrty  up  H[ill  River.r^-Arrival  at  Lake  Wiwiipeg.  -  350 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER    II. 

The   Saskatchawayn.— Arrival  at  Cumberland  House.— Sufferings  of  the  In- 
dians.—First  of  January.— Bois  Brules.— Departure  of  Captain  Franklin.— 
Cumberiand  House.— Vegetable  Kingdom.— Animals.— The  Naheeowak. 
358 

CHAPTER  III. 

Snow  Shoes. — Dog  Sledges. — TravelUng  Dress. — Mai  a  Raquette.— Pemican. 
— Sagacity  of  Wolves. — Arrival  at  Carlton  House.— Assinneboins. — 
Their  War  Parties. — Dressing  Skins. — A  Pound  for  catching  Buffaloes.  367 

CHAPTER   IV. 

Running  the  Buffalo, — Still  Hunting. — Carlton  House. — Goitres. — A  Dead 
Body. — Isle  a  la  Crosse. — Buffalo  Lake. — Pierre  au  Calumet. — Arrival  at 
Fort  Chippewyan. — Return  of  Spring.  _  _  -  -   377 

CHAPTER  V. 

News  from  Great  Slave  Lake. — Voyageurs  engaged. — Fort  Chippewyan 

— Lake  of  the  Hills. — Chippewyan  Tribe. — Their  Dress. — Character. — 

Vanity. — Opinions. — Customs. — Abandonment  of  their  Sick. — A  Birch 

Canoe.  -__.-..-    385 

CHAPTER  VI. 

An  Accident. — Arrival  of  Dr  Richardson. — Arrangements  for  Departure. — 
Departure. — Portages. — A  Buffalo  killed. — The  Party  arrive  at  Great 
Slave  Lake. — At  Fort  Providence. — Conference  with  Akaitcho.  393 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Akaitcho. — Preparations  for  the  Journey. — Fort  Providence. — Journey  up 
Yellow  Knife  River. — Want  of  Food.— Yellow  Knife  River. — Mutiny  of 
the  Voyageurs.— The  party  reach  their  Winter  Quarters.— Conduct  of 
Akaitcho. — Departure  of  Messrs  Back  and  Hood.  -  -  401 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

Trip  to  the  Coppermine.— Foxt  Enterprise. — Reindeer.— Departure  of  Messrs 
Back  and  Wentzel.— Conduct  of  the  Indians. — Frozen  Fishes.— News 
from  Slave  Lake.— Green  Stockings.~Temperature.~Diet,~ Arrival  from 
Slave  Lake.—Esquimaux  Interpreters.  -  -  -  -    409 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Message  from  the  Hook. — Conduct  of  the  Interpreters. — Akaitcho.— April.™ 
Suffering  of  the  Indians.— Sliding  down  Hill.— Advance  of  the  Season.— 
A  Supply  of  Food. — May  Weather. — Arrival  of  Water-Fowl. — Akaitcho 
arrives.— His  Conduct.  ....  .  416 

CHAPTER   X. 

Captain  Franklin's  Reply  to  Akaitcho. — The  Copper  Indians, — Keskarrah. — 
Marriages. — Wars. — Numbers. — The  Dog-Ribs. — Their  Character. — Res- 
idence and  Numbers. — The  Hare   Indians. — The  Cluarrellers. — Other 
Tribes. — Behaviour  of  Akaitcho. — The  first  Party  leaves  Fort  Enterprise. 
423 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Captain  Franklin  leaves  Fort  Enterprise. — Suffeiings  of  the  Men.— The 
Coppermine. — Musk  Oxen  killed. — The  Hook. — Portage  to  Great 
Bear  Lake. — Rapids. — The  Copper  Mountains.— The  Interpreters  con- 
verse with  the  Esquimaux. — Flight  of  the  EsquiAiaux. — The  Esqui- 
maux seen  again. — An  old  Savage.  -  -  -  -     431 

CHAPTER  XH. 

Terregannuck  and  his  People.— More  Esquimaux. — The  Copper  Indians 
turn  back.— The  Party  proceed  along  the  Coast,  and  finally  turn  back. 
— Hood's  River.— Journey  across  the  Barren  Grounds. — Sufferings  of 
the  Party. — Tripe  de  Roche. — The  River  Anatessy.  -  438 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
A  Musk-Ox  killed. — The  Party  come  to  a  Lake  and  cross  a  River.— Dan- 
ger of  Belanger. — They  reach  Point  Lake. — The  Canoe  left.— They 
arrive  at  the  Coppermine.—  Adventure  of  Dr  Richardson.— Efforts  to 
cross. — Fate  of  Credit  and  Vaillant.— Dr  Richardson  stops. — Dreadful 
Sufferings  of  the  Party.  .  _  -  ,  .  446 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Perrault  turns  back. — Fontano  is  lost. — Captain  Franklin  reaches  Fort 
Enterprise. — Misery  of  the  Party. — Dr  Richardson  and  Hepburn  reach 
Fort  Enterprise.— The  Crimes  of  Michel.— Murder  of  Mr  Hood.— Mi- 
chel is  put  to  Death. — Subsequent  Progress  of  Dr  Richardson  and 
Hepburn.  .......  454 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Death  of  Peltier  and  Samandre. — ^Extreme  Weakness  of  the  Survivors. — 
Their  Intellects  become  weak. — Arrival  of  Indians. — Their  Proceed- 
ings.— More  Indians  arrive. — Captain  Franklin  reaches  the  Camp  of 
•Akaitcho. — Mr  Back's  Adventures. — Death  of  Beauparlant. — End  of 
the  Journey.  -..--..  452 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Second  Journey  of  Captain  Franklin. — Attack  by  the  Esquimaux. — De- 
scription of  the  Esquimaux. — Their  Women. — Farther  Progress. — The 
Expedition  returns. — Capt.  Beechy. — Doctor  Richardson's  Voyage. — The 
Esquimaux, — Their  Huts. — Observations  on  the  Magnetic  Pole.         470 


KOTZEBUE'S     VOYAGE. 

Arrival  of  Lieut.  Kotzebue  at  Cape  Prince  of   Wales, — Discovery  of  a 

fourth  Island  in   the   Gwozdeff  Group. — Dwellings  of  the  Natives. 

Conduct  of  the  Savages. — Appearance  of  the  Land.— The  Natives. 

Ice-Bergs  ou  Land.— Researches  in  Kotzebue's  Sound.-- Advantages 
of  this  Discovery.  ---..,  ^^q 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Hecla  and  Griper  in  Winter  Quarters,  p.  IGl. 


tSiii^jalur  .ippcarance  of  the  Moon.  p.  iftU. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Shooting  Harpoon  into  a  Whale. 


Harpoon  in^^  a  Srnl.  p.  1 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Shooting  Polar  Bear. 


Black  Bear. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Sliootinof  Wahusses. 


Indians  on  the  Northwest  Cuaat. 


POLAR    REGIONS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

Of  the  Geographical  Situation  of  Iceland. — Its  Discovery  and  Colonization. — 
Patriarchal  Government  of  the  early  Settlers. — The  Icelandic  Republic. — 
Its  Government. — Code  of  Ulfliot. — Code  of  Bergthor. — The  Jonsbok. — 
Conversion  of  the  Icelanders. — Subjugation  of  Iceland  to  Norway. — Legal 
Punishments. — Present  Government  of  Iceland. — Attempted  Revolution 
in  1805. 

In  compiling  a  work  on  the  Northern  Regions  of 
America,  we  hope  it  will  not  be  thought  amiss  if  we 
begin  wdth  Iceland ;  though  that  island  has  been 
long  considered  a  part  of  the  old  world,  and  was, 
perhaps,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  the  Ancients.  Lying  as 
it  does,  much  nearer  to  Greenland  than  to  any  part 
of  Europe,  it  is  without  doubt  a  natural  appendage 
of  America.  It  is  also  attached  to  the  American 
Continent  by  Malte  Brun,  the  highest  geographical 
authority  of  the  present  day. 

It  is  situated  on   the  verge  of  the  polar  circle, 

between  63°  24'  and  QQ""  30'  of  north  latitude;    and 

between  13**  15'  and  24°  40'  of  longitude,  west  from 

Greenwich.     Its  length  is  three  hundred,  and  its 

1 


2  POLAR   REGIONS. 

breadth  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  nearly ;  and  it 
has  a  superficial  area  of  40,500  square  miles. 

The  earUest  record  of  the  discovery  of  Iceland 
which  may  be  considered  authentic,  is  contained  in 
an  ancient  work  in  the  Runic  tongue,  called  The 
Landnamabok,  or  Book  of  Occupation.  According 
to  this  authority,  Naddodd,  a  famous  Norwegian 
pirate,  was  driven  to  the  shores  of  Iceland  by  a 
storm,  about  the  year  860.  He  found  no  inhab- 
itants, nor  did  he  attempt  a  settlement.  It  is  indeed 
stated  in  the  Landnamabok  that  the  island  was  pre- 
viously settled  by  Christians  from  the  British  Isles ; 
but  as  they  left  no  traces  of  their  establishments, 
and  as  the  assertion  is  not  supported  by  reference, 
or  other  authority,  it  is  fair  to  conclude,  that  if  the 
British  Christians  did  indeed  come  thither,  they 
were  only  occasional  visitors. 

Four  years  after,  Iceland  was  again  discovered  by 
Gardar  Svafarson,  a  Swede ;  who  circumnavigated 
it,  and  spent  the  winter  on  its  shores.  The  account 
he  gave  of  it  on  his  return,  induced  Floki,  another 
Norwegian  pirate,  to  attempt  a  settlement.  He 
sailed  from  the  Faro  Islands,  and  supplied  the  want 
of  the  compass  by  dismissing  ravens  from  his  ship, 
and  directed  his  course  by  their  flight.  He  settled 
at  Vatnsfiord,  but  devoting  too  much  of  his  time  to 
the  fisheries,  his  crops  failed,  and  the  cattle  he  had 
brought  with  him  died  in  consequence.  He  passed 
the  winter  on  the  island,  gave  it  the  name  of  Ice- 
land, or  the  country  of  I6e,  and  then  abandoned  it 
forever. 

The   companions  of  Floki  gave  very  favorable 


POLAR    REGIONS.  3 

accounts  of  the  natural  advantages  of  the  island. 
They  depicted  it  as  a  terrestrial  paradise,  and 
to  express  his  satisfaction  more  forcibly,  one  ot 
them  averred  that  *  butter  dropped  from  every  plant' 
it  produced. 

In  870,  Ingolf  and  Hiorleif,  two  Norwegians, 
wintered  on  the  island,  and  on  their  return  to  Nor- 
way took  measures  to  plant  a  colony,  which  they 
effected  in  874.  On  their  near  approach  to  the 
shore,  Ingolf  threw  the  timber  he  had  brought  to 
construct  a  dwelling  into  the  sea,  and  made  a  vow 
that  he  w^ould  build  his  house  w^herever  it  floated 
on.  shore.  It  came  to  land  near  Reykiavik,  the 
present  capital  of  Iceland. 

To  escape  the  usurping  tyranny  of  Harold  Har- 
fager,  the  then  king  of  Norway,  many  of  the  petty 
princes  of  that  part  of  Scandinavia  fled  to  Iceland 
In  a  short  time  the  entire  coast  was  occupied  by 
their  dependants  and  followers,  and  Harold,  to  pre- 
vent the  depopulation  of  his  realms,  was  obliged  to 
impose  a  heavy  fine  on  such  as  should  leave  Nor- 
way for  Iceland. 

In  928  the  Icelanders  erected  a  regular  republic. 
They  divided  their  island  into  four  quarters,  or  di- 
visions, over  each  of  which  a  chief  magistrate,  elect- 
ed by  the  free  suffrages  of  the  people,  presided 
Each  quarter  was  subdivided  into  three  prefectures, 
or  sheriflcloms,  governed,  severally,  by  an  oflficer 
whose  duty  it  was  to  preserve  order,  to  call  assem- 
blies to  try  causes,  to  preside  in  such  assemblies, 
and  to  see  the  punishments  they  awarded  carried 
into  effect.     The  prefectures  were  again  divided 


4  POLAR    REGIONS. 

into  districts  called  Hrepps,  consisting  of  such  fam- 
ilies as  resided  in  the  same  neighbourhood,  and 
much  resembling  the  hundreds  of  the  Anglo  Saxons. 
Over  each  of  these  a  Hreppstiori,  or  headborough, 
was  appointed,  who  was  bound  by  his  office  to  take 
care  of  the  poor  of  his  own  district,  to  prevent  their 
number  from  increasing,  and  to  preside  over  inferior 
courts,  each  of  which  was  to  consist  of  four  land- 
holders. Such  affairs  as  could  not  be  settled  in 
these  courts  were  to  be  carried  before  the  sherifPs 
court,  to  which  the  Hreppstiori  were  amenable.  In 
extraordinary  cases,  there  was  an  appeal  to  a  court 
formed  of  deputies  from  the  four  quarters,  but  this 
court  only  assembled  in  cases  of  extreme  emer- 
gency. 

Lastly,  there  was  a  final  court  of  appeal,  called 
The  Althing,  or  General  Assembly  of  the  Nation, 
held  annually,  and  which  sat  sixteen  days.  In  this 
assembly  the  laws  of  the  nation  were  enacted,  and 
here  all  differences  were  finally  adjusted.  The 
presiding  officer  was  termed  the  Publisher  of  the 
Law,  and  his  judgment,  when  confirmed  by  the  peo- 
ple, was  decisive.  He  was  elected  by  the  people, 
and  commonly  held  his  office  for  hfe.  He  had  the 
custody  of  the  standard  copy  of  the  laws.  He  had 
power  to  reverse  the  sentences  of  inferior  magis- 
trates, and  of  punishing  them,  on  sufficient  proof  of 
malversation  in  office.  So  much  importance  did 
the  Icelanders  attach  to  this  officer,  that  they  com- 
puted time  from  the  date  of  his  administration. 

In  927,  Ulfliot,  a  learned  Icelander,  offered  a 
code  which  he  had  prepared,  to  the  acceptance  of 


POLAR    REGIONS.  5 

the  General  Assembly.  It  was  adopted,  and  be- 
came the  statute  law  of  the  island.  At  the  same 
time,  Thingvalla,  having  been  confiscated  to  the  use 
of  the  nation,  became  the  permanent  seat  of  the 
Althing. 

This  code  was  an  abstract  of  the  laws  then  in 
force  in  Norway.  In  1118  it  was  superseded  by 
an  improved  code  by  Bergthor,  then  Publisher  of 
the  Law,  and  this  code,  in  1280,  gave  place  to 
another,  called  Jonsbok,  which  obtains,  in  most  in- 
stances, to  this  day. 

Thus  did  a  number  of  free  persons,  many  of 
whom  had  been  princes,  establish  a  government  as 
liberal  in  its  principles  as  any  that  ever  existed. 
They  enacted  laws  that  have  been  pronounced  by 
competent  judges  admirably  calculated  to  protect 
individual  rights  and  privileges,  and  every  way  adapt- 
ed to  their  peculiar  circumstances.  This  state  of 
things  continued  four  hundred  years,  and  was  at 
last  subverted  by  intestine  broils  and  bloody  quar- 
rels, fomented  and  encouraged  by  the  kings  of  Nor- 
way. 

One  attempt  was  made  to  introduce  Christianity 
into  Iceland,  a  little  more  than  a  century  after  its 
colonization.  In  981,  a  Norwegian  pirate  brought 
over  a  bishop,  and  acted  as  interpreter  to  his  mis- 
sionary labors.  They  did  not  fully  succeed,  more 
especially  as  the  pious  pirate  had,  in  the  excess  of 
his  zeal,  slain  two  of  the  heathen  bards  for  satirizing 
the  rites  of  his  new  faith;  but  they  persuaded  the 
Icelanders  to  refuse  to  pay  the  customary  tax  to 
support  the  worship  of  Thor  and  Odin.  A  few  re- 
1* 


6  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ceived  baptism,  and  a  church  was  built,  though  not 
without  much  opposition. 

Other  missionaries  were  sent  by-  Olave,  king  of 
Norway,  but  they  only  served  as  marks  for  the 
satire  of  the  Runic  poets.  Such  as  they  did  con- 
vert were  fined,  and  at  last  were  banished  from  Ice- 
land. 

Persecution  had  its  usual  effect.  The  Christians 
gained  ground,  and  in  the  year  1000  they  obtained, 
after  a  hard  struggle,  that  their  worship  should  be 
tolerated.  In  the  course  of  time,  the  whole  of  the 
population  embraced  Christianity.  In  1551,  the 
doctrines  of  Luther  were  fully  introduced  among 
them,  and  are  still  the  ground  of  their  faith,  though 
a  small  number  of  the  Icelandic  clergy  are  Socinians. 

Haco  succeeded  in  subjugating  the  island.  In 
1261  the  greater  part  of  the  people  became  tributa- 
ry to  him,  and  the  rest  submitted  four  years  after. 
Even  in  their  submission  the  Icelanders  preserved 
the  spirit  of  a  free  people,  for  the  changes  intro- 
duced by  Norway  were  slight,  and  no  foreign  mili- 
tary force  ever  set  foot  on  the  island.  They  stipu- 
lated that  they  should  retain  their  ancient  rights 
and  laws ;  that  King  Haco  should  be  bound  to  con- 
tinue the  importation  of  the  necessary  articles  of 
foreign  produce,  and  that  they  should  be  governed 
by  an  Earl  expressly  appointed  for  that  purpose.  If 
the  King  of  Norway  should  fail  to  fulfil  these  con- 
ditions, they  were  free  to  withdraw  their  allegiance. 

In  1800  the  venerable  Althing  was  abrogated,  and 
a  supreme  court  substituted  in  its  room  at  Reyki- 
avik,  consisting  of  a  Chief  Justice,  two  Assessors,  and 


POLAR   REGIONS.  7 

a  Secretary.  This  court  meets  once  a  month,  and 
decides  on  criminal  and  other  cases ;  but  the 
Icelanders  have  the  privilege  of  appealing  from  its 
decisions  to  the  high  court  in  Denmark.  In  ancient 
times,  scarcely  any  other  than  pecuniary  punish- 
ments obtained.  Criminals  were  fined  in  a  certain 
number  of  marks,  each  of  which  amounted  to  rather 
more  than  an  ounce  of  fine  silver,  and  was  equal  to 
fortyeight  ells  of  woollen  cloth  ;  but  as  this  mode 
of  punishment  was  found  ineffectual  to  the  preven- 
tion of  crime,  the  laws  became  gradually  more 
severe,  and  at  last  capital  punishments  were  intro- 
duced. Hanging  was  the  m.ode  inflicted  for  mur- 
ders, drowning  for  child  murder,  and  burning  for 
witchcraft.  At  present,  fines,  imprisonment,  and 
whipping  are  the  only  punishments  inflicted  in  Ice- 
land. Such  as  are  capitally  convicted,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  send  over  to  Copenhagen  to  be  beheaded ; 
it  being  a  curious  fact  that,  for  some  time  past,  no 
person  could  be  found  on  the  island  who  would 
execute  the  sentence  of  the  law. 

At  present,  Iceland  is  governed  by  a  Shiftamtman, 
who  is  appointed  by  his  Danish  majesty,  and  is 
bound  to  fill  this  office  for  the  space  of  five  years. 
He  is  generally  one  of  the  younger  branches  of  a 
noble  family,  has  a  salary  of  about  £500  per  annum, 
and  is  entitled  to  preferment  on  his  return  to  Den- 
mark. He  is  likewise  special  governor  of  the 
southern  quarter  of  the  island  in  which  he  resides ; 
and  has  two  Amtmen,  or  deputy  governors,  one  for 
the  western,  and  another  for  the  northern  and  east- 
ern  quarters.      These   quarters   are  divided   into 


8  POLAR    REGIONS. 

syssels  or  sheriffdoms,  the  boundaries  of  which  are 
much  the  same  as  those  fixed  in  the  ancient  consti- 
tution;  and  they  are  governed  by  a  Sysselman, 
whose  office  also  resembles  that  of  the  ancient  sher- 
iffs— except  that  he  has  a  lease  of  the  King's  taxes, 
and  accounts  to  the  royal  treasurer  for  the  amount. 
The  syssels  are  again  divided  into  a  number  of 
hrepps,  each  of  which  is  placed  under  the  inspec- 
tion of  a  hreppstion  or  constable,  answering  to  the 
bailiff  of  former  times. 

There  is  besides,  another  public  officer  called 
the  Landfoged,  or  steward,  who  is  treasurer  or  re- 
ceiver-general for  the  island,  and  at  the  same  time, 
tax-gatherer  of  Gullbringe  Syssel  and  pohce  master 
of  ReykiaviL 

In  1805,  an  Icelander,  by  name  Jorgenson,  at- 
tempted to  revolutionize  the  island.  He  made  the 
Danish  governor  prisoner,  seized  the  reins  of  gov- 
ernment into  his  own  hands,  and  declared  the 
nation  independent.  Not  being  supported  by  the 
British  government  as  he  expected,  things  soon 
reverted  to  their  former  state. 


POLAR   REGIONS. 


CHAPTER    U. 


Geologic    Character  of  Iceland.— Volcanoes    and    Ice    Mountains.— Mount 
Hecla.— Eruption  of  Skaptar  Yokul.— Its  Consequences.— Skaptar  Yokul. 

Iceland  is  a  chain  of  immense  rocks,  in  the  struc- 
ture of  which  trap  and  basalt  predominate.  Their 
summits  are  crowned  with  snow,  though  everlasting 
fire  burns  in  their  subterranean  caverns.  Judging 
from  its  analogy  with  islands  of  known  volcanic 
origin,  and  from  the  appearance  of  new  islands  near 
its  shores  within  a  century,  there  is  little  doubt,  that 
it  was  thrown  up  by  fires  burning,  perhaps,  below 
the  bottom  of  the  ocean. 

Tracts  of  lava  traverse  the  island  in  every  direc- 
tion. The  general  appearance  of  the  country  is  the 
most  rugged  and  dreary  imaginable.  On  every 
side  are  the  yawning  craters  of  active  or  extinguish- 
ed volcanoes,  the  sources  of  the  surrounding  deso- 
lation. As  if  nature  delighted  to  bring  the  most 
heterogeneous  parts  of  matter  in  contact,  the  burn- 
ing lava  often  gushes  out  of  a  solid  mass  of  ice,  and 
carries  with  it  in  its  devastating  course,  a  torrent 
of  hot,  muddy  water. 

We  have  neither  time  nor  room  to  describe  the 
tracts  which  are,  or  have  been,  inundated  and  cov- 
ered with  lava.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  vents 
through  which  it  has  flowed  are  twentynine  in 
number,  and  of  these  nine  are  still  active ;  namely, 
Krabla,  Leirhnukr,  Biarnarflag,  Hitahol,  Hecla, 
Kodugia,  Solheima,  Oraefa,  and  Skaptar  Yokul. 
These  are  the  principal,  but  there  are  besides  a 


10  POLAR    REGIONS. 

countless  number  of  smaller  cones  and  craters,  from 
which  streams  of  liquid  flame  are,  or  have  been, 
poured  on  the  surrounding  regions. 

Celebrated  as  this  island  has  been  for  its  volca- 
noes and  hot  springs,  it  is  scarcely  less  remarkable 
on  account  of  the  enormous  ice-mountains  w^hich 
occupy  a  vast  portion  of  its  surface.  To  these 
mountains  the  natives  give  the  name  of  Yokuls,  which 
signify  large  masses  of  ice. 

Though  covered  with  coats  of  ice  of  immense 
thickness,  when  the  internal  parts  of  the  mountains 
become  ignited,  the  mass  of  ice,  or  indurated  snow, 
is  cracked  and  rent  by  the  explosion  which  ensues ; 
a  great  quantity  of  it  is  melted  by  the  flames,  or  the 
exundations  of  hot  water ;  and  whole  fields  of  ice 
are  sometimes  deposited  on  the  neighbouring  plains. 
Some  of  these  Yokuls  are  remarkable  for.  their 
vacillation ;  not  remaining  in  a  settled  position,  but 
moving  forwards  and  receding  again  at  certain  in- 
definite periods. 

Mount  Hecla,  the  most  celebrated  of  the  volca- 
noes of  Iceland,  is  neither  the  highest  of  its  moun- 
tains, nor  of  the  most  striking  aspect.  The  Trehern- 
ing  or  Three  Horned  Mountain,  has  a  far  nobler 
and  more  picturesque  appearance.  Many  of  the 
mountains  are  higher.  It  is  situated  about  thirty 
miles  back  from  the  coast,  and  is  estimated  at 
somewhat  near  4000  feet  in  height.  Its  summit  is 
divided  into  three  peaks,  the  middle  of  which  is  the 
highest.  The  craters  form  vast  hollows  on  the 
sides  of  these  peaks,  and,  according  to  the  last  ac- 
counts, are  partially  filled  with  snow.     The  moun- 


POLAR   REGIONS.  11 

tain  itself  consists  for  the  most  part  of  sand  and 
slags ;  the  lava  being  confined  to  the  lower  regions, 
and  forming  an  immensely  rugged  and  vitrified  w^all 
around  its  base*  From  this  circumstance  it  has 
been  concluded  that  the  lava  has  not  proceeded 
from  the  crater  at  the  summit  of  Hecla,.  but  from 
apertures  at  no  great  elevation  on  its  sides. 

Sir  George  M'Kenzie,  Dr  Holland,  and  Mr  Bright 
are  the  last  travellers  who  have  ascended  Mount 
Hecla.  On  the  3d  of  August,  1810,  they  gained  its 
summit,  at  which  time  they  observed  the  vapor  of 
water  ascending  from  several  parts  of  the  middle 
peak,  and  the  heat  in  the  mountain  was  so  intense, 
that  on  removing  a  few  of  the  slags  from  the  surface, 
they  found  those  below  too  hot  to  be  handled ;  and 
on  placing  a  thermometer  among  them,  it  rose  to 
144^ 

This  famous  volcano  without  doubt  emitted  lava 
previous  to  the  settlement  of  the  island.  Since 
that  date,  twentythree  of  its  eruptions  are  on 
record.  They  have  occurred  at  intervals  of  many 
years,  and  more  than  sixty  have  elapsed  since  the 
last. 

The  most  dreadful  volcanic  eruption  on  the  re- 
cords of  Iceland  was  not  from  Hecla,  but  from  Skap- 
tar  Yokul.  It  took  place  in  1 783.  To  avoid  repe- 
tition we  shall  give  an  account  of  it^  as  an  example 
of  the  calamities  which  have  occurred  in  the  island 
from  the  same  cause,  premising  that  no  other  ever 
produced  more  lamentable  consequences. 

Till  the  month  of  May  the  season  was  unu- 
sually fine  for  the  climate,  and  vegetation  was  un- 


12  POLAR   REGIONS. 

commonly  forward.  Toward  the  end  of  the  month 
a  light  blue  smoke,  or  fog,  was  seen  floating  along 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  but  none  of  the  inhabitants 
were  alarmed  till  the  first  of  June,  when  several 
shocks  of  earthquake  gave  warning  of  what  was  to 
follow.  They  continued  to  increase  in  violence  till 
the  eighth.  At  nine  in  the  evening  a  black  cloud  of 
smoke  arose  in  the  north,  and  extended  itself  over 
the  whole  district  of  Sida.  On  its  near  approach, 
Sida  was  involved  in  darkness,  and  when  the  cloud 
hovered  directly  over  it,  a  shower  of  sand  and  ashes 
was  discharged,  which  covered  the  ground  an  inch 
deep.  Earthquakes,  with  incessant  peals  of  thun- 
der, and  frightful  subterraneous  noises,  continued 
through  the  whole  day.  On  the  tenth,  several  fire 
spouts  were  seen  in  the  north,  while  the  thunder 
and  the  commotions  of  the  earth  increased  in  vio- 
lence. 

The  Skaptar  was  formerly  a  large  river,  and  took 
its  rise  in  Skaptar  Yokul.  On  this  day  it  totally 
disappeared,  and  was  so  dried  up,  that  men  crossed 
its  bed  on  foot  and  dry  shod,  where  the  passage 
had  been  difficult  in  boats.  The  cause  of  this  phe- 
nomenon made  itself  fully  apparent  two  days  after. 
A  terrific  stream  of  molten  lava  came  pouring  into 
the  channel  of  the  Skaptar.  The  cliffs  between 
which  this  river  run  might  average  five  hundred  feet 
in  height,  yet  the  lava  not  only  filled  up  the  chasm, 
but  overflowed  a  considerable  tract  on  both  sides. 
It  is  now  only  in  a  few  places  that  the  tops  of  the 
highest  hills  that  enclosed  the  Skaptar  can  be  seen 
above  the  lava  that  buried  them. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  13 

No  language  can  adequately  express  the  horrors 
of  this  first  eruption.  A  black  cloud  incessantly 
showered  down  sand,  ashes,  sulphur,  and  other  sub- 
stances. The  foetid  smoke  veiled  the  face  of  the 
sun,  and  when  it  did  appear,  its  color  was  a  sombre, 
bloody  red.  Constant  earthquakes  that  threatened 
the  foundations  of  the  island,  fire  spouts  innumer- 
able, the  lurid  stream  that  filled  the  bed  of  the 
Skaptar,  indescribable  sounds  in  air  and  earth,  with 
constant  thunder,  and  one  incessant  sheet  of  light- 
ning, were  the  objects  presented  to  the  senses  of  the 
affrighted  Icelanders,  and  made  them  believe  that 
the  day  of  judgment  had  arrived. 

Running  with  inconceivable  fury,  the  stream  of 
fire  proceeded,  bearing  houses,  enclosures,  and 
everything  else  before  it.  When  it  reached  the 
gorge  through  which  the  Skaptar  took  leave  of  the 
mountains,  it  might  have  been  expected  to  overrun 
the  lower  districts  ;  but  providentially,  a  lake  receiv- 
ed it,  and  swallowed  up  a  vast  quantity  of  lava,  so 
that  the  fire  stream  was  much  diminished.  When 
the  lake  was  filled  up,  the  torrent  extended  itself 
over  the  lower  grounds.  This  scene  of  havoc  con- 
tinued till  the  15th  of  the  month,  and  during  this 
time  a  large  tract  of  the  best  land  on  the  island  was 
covered  and  utterly  ruined. 

Till  the  18th,  the  fire  spread  slowly  over  the 
country,  lifting  the  lava  of  older  date  out  of  its 
place,  and  thereby  creating  rugged  hills.  Where- 
ever  the  burning  Hquid  found  its  way  under  rocks 
and  hills,  they  were,  by  the  expansion  of  their  in- 
ternal moisture,  thrown  into  the  air  with  prodigious 
2 


14  POLAR  REGIONS. 

force.  The  terrors  which  must  have  attended  the 
upHfting  of  such  masses,  many  of  them  an  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  in  height,  and  their  fall,  may  be 
imagined,  but  cannot  be  described. 

On  the  18th,  a  dreadful  eruption  of  lava  broke 
from  the  craters  of  Skaptar  Yokul.  Where  the 
Skaptar  River  had  not  been  quite  filled  up,  the 
lava  rose  to  a  height  much  exceeding  the  highest 
hills  that  enclosed  the  stream.  It  brought  on  its 
surface  red-hot  rocks  that  it  had  torn  from  their 
beds.  A  thick  suffocating  steam  arose  from  two 
rivers  which  the  lava  had  intercepted,  and  kept 
constantly  boiling,  and  the  hot  w^ater,  which  in  con- 
sequence overflowed  the  low  banks,  did  no  small 
damage. 

The  next  day  the  fire  extended  much  farther, 
dividing  into  two  branches,  one  running  south  and 
the  other  east,  burning  the  country,  and  carrying 
away  houses,  churches,  and  all  the  fruits  of  the  in- 
dustry of  the  inhabitants.  Thus  it  continued  to 
•advance,  slowly,  but  surely,  desolating  and  destro}- 
ing  all  before  it. 

From  the  22d  of  June  to  the  13th  of  July,  fresh 
streams  of  lava  broke  out.  In  one  place  it  rose, 
from  the  constant  eruptions,  into  a  lofty  hill,  and 
became  hard  and  solid,  preventing  the  new  streams 
which  poured  from  the  mountains  from  finding  a 
free  passage,  and  dividing  them  into  many  branches. 
In  one  place  it  ran  in  the  bed  of  the  Skaptar 
over  the  lofty  fall  of  Stapafos,  exhibiting  a  literal 
cataract  of  flame,  and  finally  obliterated  all  traces 
of  the  fall,  by  filling  the  gulf  beneath. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  15 

On  the  3d  of  August  the  river  Hverfisfliot  dried 
up  in  the  same  manner  that  the  Skaptar,  to  which 
it  was  equal  in  size,  had  done.  It  was  before  the 
end  of  the  month  filled  and  obliterated  as  the  Skap- 
tar  had  been.  It  is  needless  to  describe  the  mi- 
nutiae of  this  desolation  farther.  The  lava  stream 
did  not  reach  the  sea,  like  those  from  Hecla,  be- 
cause the  mountain  from  which  it  flowed  was  at  a 
distance  four  times  greater  than  that  of  Hecla  from 
it.  The  lava  continued  to  burst  forth,  though  at 
longer  periods  and  in  smaller  streams,  till  February, 
1784.  In  the  course  of  this  flood  of  fire  many  large 
rivers  were  effaced  from  the  map,  many  farms  were 
swept  away,  much  property  was  destroyed,  and 
large  tracts  of  land  were  laid  waste,  but  we  are  not 
aware  that  any  human  lives  were  lost.  The  quan- 
tity of  ashes,  sulphur,  &c.,  ejected  into  the  air,  was 
so  great  that  nearly  the  whole  European  atmosphere 
was  obscured.  In  the  Faro  Islands,  the  earth  was 
at  times  covered  with  sand,  ashes,  and  pumice. 
Luminous  meteors  were  observed  in  England,  Hol- 
land, and  other  parts  of  the  continent,  and  tremen- 
dous earthquakes  shook  the  northern  hemisphere. 

We  said  that  no  human  hves  were  lost  by  this 
eruption,  but  this  must  be  understood  as  applying 
to  its  direct  effects.  Inveterate  diseases,  in  the 
form  of  scurvy,  broke  out,  even  in  parts  remote 
from  the  fire.  In  six  parishes  only,  one  hundred 
and  sixty  persons  were  carried  off*  before  the  June 
following;  but  some  of  these  perished  by  famine. 
The  same  symptoms  were  observed  in  the  human 
race  and  the  brute  creation.     The  limbs,   throat. 


16  POLAR  REGIONS. 

and  head,  were  dreadfully  swollen,  and  the  joints 
contracted,  as  well  as  the  ribs.  The  sinews  of  the 
sufferers  were  drawn  up,  they  were  oppressed  with 
pains  in  the  breasts  and  loins,  their  teeth  became 
loose,  their  gums  mortified  and  came  away,  and  in 
many  cases  the  tongue  perished  in  the  same  man- 
ner, while  the  patient  was  yet  alive.  Not  to  en- 
large on  this  painful  topic,  we  may  suppose  that 
the  want  of  food  and  the  consumption  of  that  which 
was  unwholesome,  the  poisoned  waters  and  the 
foetid  air  they  breathed  during  the  eruption,  were 
sufficient  to  produce  these  epidemic  results,  with- 
out the  aid  of  contagion. 

The  total  number  that  perished  from  these  causes 
was  nine  thousand. 

The  loss  of  catde  and  sheep  was  very  severely 
felt  by  the  Icelanders,  and  many  species  of  birds 
w^ere  frightened  from  the  island  and  never  returned. 
The  fishery  was  interrupted  an  entire  year.  The 
only  benefit  to  balance  all  these  calamities  was 
that  the  fertility  of  such  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
conflagration  as  had  not  been  overflowed,  was  in- 
creased. 

Skaptar  Yokul,  which  gave  vent  to  the  fiery  plague, 
is  an  ice  mountain,  and,  it  is  supposed,  has  a  subter- 
raneous communication  with  Orsefa,  Sida,  and  other 
volcanoes,  though  at  the  distance  of  many  miles.  It 
is  situated  near  the  boundary  of  the  district  called 
West  Skaftafell  Syssel,  near  the  sources  of  several 
rivers.  It  consists  of  about  twenty  red,  conical  hills, 
which  have  been  the  furnaces  from  which  so  much 
molten  matter  has  boiled  over.     The  Icelandic  rec- 


POLAR  REGIONS.  17 

ords  make  no  mention  of  any  former  eruption  of 
this  volcano,  but  the  situation  of  the  ancient  lava  in 
its  neighbourhood  proves  that  it  was  active  at  some 
time,  probably  before  the  discovery  of  Iceland.  The 
eruptions  of  those  volcanoes  supposed  to  be  con- 
nected with  it,  have,  perhaps,  had  the  same  origin, 
Henderson  thinks  that  all  the  Yokuls  are  but  differ- 
ent vents  of  ore,  and  of  the  same  internal  fire,  which 
sometimes  breaks  out  in  one  place,  and  sometimes 
in  another. 

An  account  of  the  several  eruptions  that  have 
ravaged  this  island,  from  time  to  time,  would  be  but 
a  repetition  of  the  same  phoenomena,  the  same  hav- 
oc, and  the  same  misery,  in  greater  or  less  degrees. 
The  pubhc  is  already  acquainted  with  the  most  re- 
markable. We  judge  it  proper,  therefore,  to  let  this 
description  of  Skaptar  Yokul  stand  for  the  whole, 
and  pass  on  to  another  chapter. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Situation  of  the  Geysers. — Description  of  the  Great  Geyser. — Its  Eruption. — 
The  Strockr.— The  Old  Strockr.— The  Little  Geyser.— Hot  Springs  at 
▼arious  Places. — Mountains. — Orsefa  Yokul. — Crater  of  Krabla. 

Of  all  the  new  and  strange  forms  and  operations 
of  matter  in  Iceland,  none  are  more  remarkable  than 
its  hot  springs,  called  in  the  Icelandic  tongue  Gey- 
sers, There  are  many  of  these  in  different  parts  of 
the  island,  at  considerable  distances  from  each  other. 
2* 


18  POLAR  REGIONS. 

Those  termed  emphatically   The  Geysers,  are  the 
most  deserving  of  notice. 

They  are  situated  in  the  district  of  Arness  Syssell, 
northeast  from  Thingvalla.  Several  miles  from  the 
Great  Geyser  the  traveller  may  descry  the  spot,  by 
the  eternal  cloud  that  hovers  over  it.  The  springs 
are  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  low  hill,  in  coundess  mul- 
tiplicity. The  Great  Geyser  gushes  from  a  large  cir- 
cular mound  formed  by  its  ov^n  deposits.  A  great 
evaporation  constantly  goes  on  from  this  basin,  which 
is  always  more  than  half  filled  with  hot,  crystalline 
water,  in  a  state  of  ebullition  caused  by  the  escape 
of  the  steam  from  a  cylindrical  pipe  or  funnel  in  the 
centre.  This  pipe  is  seventyeight  feet  deep  per- 
pendicular, and  from  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter. 
Near  the  top  it  widens  and  opens  into  the  basin, 
the  interior  surface  of  which  is  covered  with  a  whi- 
tish, siliceous  incrustation,  rendered  perfectly  smooth 
by  the  ceaseless  action  of  the  boiling  water.  The 
diameter  of  the  basin  is  fiftysix  feet  in  one  direc- 
tion, and  fortysix  in  another.  When  full,  the  water 
is  four  feet  deep  to  the  mouth  of  the  pipe.  The 
edges  of  the  basin  form  the  highest  part  of  the 
mound,  and  are  extremely  broken  and  irregular,  owing 
to  the  accretion  of  deposited  substances.  There 
are  two  small  channels,  equally  polished  with  the 
rest  of  the  basin,  through  which  the  water  escapes 
when  it  is  filled  to  the  margin.  The  declivity  of  the 
mound  is  abrupt,  especially  on  the  northwest  side, 
but  soon  begins  to  slope  more  gradually ;  and  the 
deposits  of  the  fountain  are  spread  all  around,  at 
different  distances,  the  least  of  which  is  an  hundred 


POLAR  REGIONS.  19 

feet.  The  whole  of  this  surface,  excepting  the  two 
small  channels,  exhibits  a  beautiful  siliceous  efflores- 
cence, rising  in  small  granular  clusters,  much  re- 
sembUng  the  heads  of  cauliflowers.  While  wet  they 
are  of  so  delicate  a  texture  that  they  can  hardly  be 
removed  in  a  perfect  state.  They  are  brown  or 
yellow.  Leaving  the  mound,  the  water  flows  through 
a  soil  of  turf,  and  in  passing  converts  the  peat,  moss, 
and  grass  into  stone,  the  finest  specimens  of  petrifac- 
tion. This  is  the  appearance  of  the  Great  Geyser 
when  tranquil.  Its  explosions  are  commonly  announ- 
ced by  sounds  resembling  the  low  report  ol  artille- 
ry. Each  of  the  reports  is  accompanied  by  a  par- 
tial earthquake.  A  few  small  jets  are  thrown  up, 
though  the  water  in  the  basin  does  not  overflow  the 
margin.  The  water  boils  violently  and  the  basin 
begins  to  fill.  The  sounds  of  subterraneous  com- 
motion become  louder  and  more  frequent,  and  the 
concussions  of  the  earth  more  violent.  At  last,  the 
pent  steam  explodes,  and  the  water  is  thrown  up 
from  the  pipe  with  great  force,  and  clouds  of  vapor 
attend  its  flight  upward.  The  first  jets  are  gener- 
ally inconsiderable,  not  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  high ;  but  the  highest  often  exceed  eighty.  If 
large  stones  are  thrown  into  the  basin  previous  to 
the  eruption,  they  are  ejected  and  tlirown  much 
higher  than  the  water.  On  the  propulsion  of  the 
jets  the  water  nighest  the  orifice  of  the  pipe  is  lifted 
more  than  a  foot ;  and  when  the  spout  falls,  the  basin 
not  only  overflows  at  the  usual  channels,  but  also 
at  the  highest  parts  of  the  brim.  The  great  body 
of  the  column,  at  least  ten  feet  in  diameter,  rises 


20  POLAR  REGIONS. 

perpendicularly,  and  then  divides  into  beautiful  cur- 
vated  ramifications,  some  of  which  are  projected 
laterally,  to  the  great  danger  of  the  spectator,  who 
may  be  scalded  by  the  falling  jet  before  he  is  aware. 
At  the  cessation  of  the  eruption  the  water  sinks 
within  the  funnel,  but  immediately  rises  again,  and 
fills  the  basin  to  its  usual  depth. 

Before  the  explosion,  the  water  is  usually  at  the 
temperature  of  IQS"'  of  Fahrenheit,  an  '  immediately 
after  at  183^  This  difference  is  caused  by  the 
coohng  of  the  water  during  its  projection  into  the 
air. 

The  explosions  of  the  Great  Geyser  take  place 
at  intervals  of  about  six  hours,  which  time  is  proba- 
bly requisite  to  generate  steam  enough  to  produce 
such  tremendous  bursts.  The  highest  jet  at  any 
one  eruption  is  commonly  about  eighty  feet,  though 
the  water  has  several  times  been  seen  projected 
more  than  two  hundred,  and  once  three  hundred 
and  sixty  feet. 

The  Strockr,  or  New  Geyser,  is  situated  an  hun- 
dred and  forty  yards  from  the  Great  Geyser,  and  in 
many  respects,  though  different,  is  as  remarkable 
as  the  principal  fountain.  Its  orifice  is  nine  feet 
in  diameter.  Its  jets  are  higher  than  those  of  the 
Great  Geyser,  more  violent,  generate  more  vapor, 
and  are  accompanied  by  a  tremendous  roaring  noise. 
When  they  have  subsided,  the  steam  is  let  off"  with 
a  deafening  roar,  and  rushes  to  a  height  little  infe- 
rior to  that  of  the  water.  The  largest  stones  that 
men  can  lift,  if  thrown  in,  are  instantly  ejected  to  an 
iacredible  height ;  frequently  beyond  the  sphere  of 


POLAR  REGIONS.  21 

vision.  Sometimes  in  falling  they  are  met  by  a  new 
rush  of  steam,  and  thus  kept  in  the  air,  alternately 
rising  and  falling  for  the  space  of  five  minutes.  When 
the  Strockr  is  in  action,  the  spray  forms  beautiful 
rainbows,  and  becomes  quite  cool  before  it  reaches 
the  earth. 

The  crater  of  this  fountain  is  fortyfour  feet  deep, 
and  is  not  perpendicular  like  that  of  the  Great  Geyser. 
One  side  of  the  orifice  is  defended  by  an  incrusted 
wall  a  foot  and  a  half  high,  and  the  other  is  on  a 
level  with  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

There  was  formerly  another  fountain  of  equal 
magnitude  with  the  Great  Geyser,  but  after  an  earth- 
quake in  1789  it  became  tranquil.  It  was  called 
the  Strockr ;  and  as  the  spring  we  have  just  de- 
scribed, broke  out  in  the  same  year,  it  received  its 
name. 

In  the  year  1784,  immediately  after  a  dreadful 
earthquake,  no  less  than  thirtyfive  similar  springs 
gushed  forth  with  amazing  violence,  but  the  fury  of 
most  of  them  abated  soon  after. 

The  description  already  given  is  perhaps  suffi- 
cient to  convey  a  proper  idea  of  the  Geysers  ;  but  a 
few  more  observations  will  not,  we  hope,  be  deemed 
impertinent.  Sometimes  the  Great  Geyser  and  the 
Strockr  erupt  at  the  same  time,  and  the  smaller 
springs  keep  them  company.  The  Strockr  may  be 
made  to  explode  at  any  time,  by  throwing  in  large 
stones ;  but  it  does  not  play  at  the  usual  time  when 
its  periodical  evacuations  are  thus  interrupted. 

The  Little  Geyser  plays  at  intervals  of  two  hours, 
but  its  jets  are  not  often  more  than  eighteen  or 


22  POLAR  REGIONS. 

twenty  feet  high.  The  crater  of  this  aqueous  vol- 
cano opens  into  a  beautiful  circular  basin,  twelve 
feet  in  diameter,  incrusted  like  that  of  the  Great 
Geyser.  The  pipe  is  scarcely  a  yard  wide,  but  it  is 
thirtyeight  feet  deep.  There  is  another  vent  a 
short  distance  from  the  Little  Geyser,  which  roars 
and  becomes  quiet  with  it.  Many  of  the  springs 
are  covered  with  incrusted  domes  below,  which  is  a 
boiling  abyss.  The  Little  Strockr  emits  its  contents 
every  quarter  of  an  hour,  in  a  fantastic  manner. 

There  are  also  several  springs  of  boiling  mud ;  and 
not  far  from  the  Great  Geyser  is  a  reservoir  of  boil- 
ing water  of  vas1:  dimensions,  and  fifty  feet  deep. 

The  Hot  Springs  of  Laugarvalla  are  not  considered 
remarkable.  Those  of  Reykialaug  are  three  in 
number,  and  are  sometimes  used  as  baths.  The 
fountains  of  Reyldahverf  are  second  in  magnitude 
only  to  the  Geysers,  and  jet  only  in  stormy  weather. 
At  Staffhollt  there  are  six  boiling  springs,  which  pro- 
ject their  water  but  a  foot  high.  There  is  one  at 
Lysuhol,  and  others  at  Reykiaholar  and  other  places ; 
but  none  to  compare  with  the  Geysers.  At  Huer- 
avellir  there  are  remarkable  ones  ;  but  the  greatest 
curiosity  at  this  place  is  a  steam  spring,  which  dis- 
charges its  vapor  with  a  noise  louder  than  the  great- 
est cataract.  Stones  thrown  in  are  instantly  cast 
forth  again  to  a  considerable  height. 

The  mountains  of  Iceland  all  are,  or  have  been, 
volcanoes.  They  are  of  two  kinds ;  the  Yokuls  or 
Ice  Mountains,  and  those  which  consist  of  common 
materials.  A  description  of  one  of  each  may  serve 
for  the  whole. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  23 

Oroefa  Yokul  is  supposed  to  be  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  Iceland.  Its  height  is  six  thousand  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet.  The  low  mountains  which 
form  its  lower  divisions  extend  to  the  coast,  and  are 
covered  in  the  summer  with  a  coat  of  green.  The 
upper  regions  are  composed  of  the  purest  snow  and 
ice.  The  River  Breidamark  Yokul  flow^s  along  its 
base.  What  are  called  Yokul  bursts  are  of  fre- 
quent occurrence.  The  ice  on  the  sides  of  the 
gullies  falls  in  with  tremendous  noise  and  jarring. 
There  are  many  chasms  or  fissures,  w^here  the  ice  of 
which  the  mountain  is  composed  has  been  cracked 
by  internal  commotion.  The  summit  rises  into  three 
or  four  precipitous  peaks,  which  inclose  an  immense 
crater. 

In  the  year  1362  this  Yokul  burst  with  an  awful 
explosion,  and  devastated  the  coast  in  the  vicinity. 
It  deluged  the  country  at  its  base  with  lava,  clay, 
gravel,  and  hot  w'ater.  It  was  again  active  during, 
the  last  century. 

The  Sulphur  Mountain  lies  between  Krabla  and 
Leirhnukr,  and  joins  the  ridge  by  which  the  two 
mountains  are  connected.  Here  the  sulphur  ex- 
hales in  such  profusion  that  the  natives  collect 
enough  to  form  a  very  considerable  branch  of  traffic. 

Leaving  the  Sulphur  Mountain,  the  traveller  pro- 
ceeds toward  mount  Kravla,  over  hot  quagmires  and 
among  boiling  springs,  the  jetting  of  which  throws 
up  vast  quantities  of  mud,  accompanied  with  a 
hoarse  roar,  with  the  escape  of  clouds  of  sulphur- 
ous vapor.  Passing  over  a  desolate  lava  tract,  he 
crosses  a  deep  gully,  worn  by  a  mountain  stream. 


24  POLAR  REGIONS. 

and  begins  the  ascent.  Arrived  at  the  summit,  he 
looks  down  seven  hundred  feet  into  the  extinct  cra- 
ter of  the  volcano.  The  earth  has  fallen  in  and  fill- 
ed it,  but  at  the  bottom  a  black  pool  of  boiling  mud 
throws  up  its  turbid  contents  every  five  minutes,  to 
the  height  of  thirty  feet.  The  column  raised  is 
equal  to  that  of  the  Great  Geyser  in  its  most  violent 
commotion. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Cave  of  Surtshellir. — Towns  and  Settlements.  Reykiavik  Videy, — Dru- 
idical  Circle  at  Thingvalla. — Holum. — Akur  Egri. — Population  of  Iceland. 
— Religion  and  Form  of  Church  Government. — Clergy. — Education. — 
School  at  Bessastad. — Icelandic  Literature. — Ruric  Poetry. — Death  Song 
of  Regner  Lodbrok. 

At  Surtshellir  is  a  long  cavern,  forty  feet  high, 
fifty  broad,  and  five  thousand  and  thirtyfour  iu 
length.  The  entrance  is  through  several  chasms 
formed  by  the  falling  in  of  the  roof.  It  was  sup- 
posed in  days  of  yore  to  be  the  residence  of  the 
king  of  the  regions  of  fire. 

This  cave  has  been  formed  by  volcanic  agency. 
Stalactites  indicating  this  origin,  hang  from  the  roof, 
and  the  sides  of  the  cave  are  composed  of  horizon- 
tal vitrified  layers  composed  of  melted  rock.  Seve- 
ral passages  branch  from  the  main  cavern,  which 
were  once  the  asylums  of  pirates  and  banditti,  of 
whom  mention  is  made  in  the  annals  of  the  island. 
One  of  these  passages  has  a  stone  wall  three  feet 
high  across  it,  with  a  door  in  the  middle,  and  is 


POLAR   REGIONS.  25 

Strewed  with  the  bones  of  animals  killed  by  the 
robbers  for  food.  This  cave  is  three  hundred  feet 
long.  The  floor  of  the  great  cave  is  obstruct- 
ed by  fragments  of  lava  which  have  fallen  from  the 
roof,  and  in  some  places  is  covered  with  pools  of 
water,  lying  on  a  bottom  of  everlasting  ice. 

One  of  the  minor  caves  is  coated  with  pure  ice 
in  every  form  of  crystallization.  Pillars  of  the 
same  material,  four  feet  in  diameter,  rise  from  the 
floor,  and  seem  to  support  the  roof.  Altogether 
the  coup  (Tml  is  the  most  beautiful  imaginable.  In 
another  apartment  there  is  a  large  pyramid,  com- 
posed of  broken  pieces  of  lava. 

Some  description  of  the  towns  and  villages  of 
Iceland  is  doubtless  necessary.  We  see  no  reason 
why  it  should  not  follow  here,  in  the  midst  of  a 
chapter  which  can  come  under  no  general  head. 
There  are  not  caverns  or  towns  in  Iceland  in  suffi- 
cient number  to  fill  a  chapter,  and  neither  can  be 
properly  omitted.  We  will  begin  with  Reykiavik, 
the  capital  of  the  island. 

Little  more  than  sixty  years  ago  there  were  but 
few  houses  in  Reykiavik ;  but  having  become  the 
residence  of  the  governor,  the  seat  of  the  supreme 
court  of  judicature,  the  principal  commercial  station, 
and  the  episcopal  see,  it  has  risen  to  some  impor- 
tance. It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  a  consid- 
erable inlet  of  the  Fare  Fiord,  between  two  grass 
clad  eminences,  on  low,  marshy  ground.  There 
are  two  streets,  one  occupied  by  merchants,  and  the 
other  by  persons  not  engaged  in  trade.  The  pub- 
lic cemetery  is  in  the  middle  of  the  latter.  The 
3 


26  POLAR   REGIONS. 

church  is  a-heavy  stone  building,  covered^with  red 
tiles,  and  stands  between  the  town  and  the  lake. 
The  house  of  correction  is  also  of  stone,  and  has 
the  most  respectable  appearance,  at  a  distance,  of 
all  the  buildings  in  the  place. 

The  dwelling  houses,  with  two  or  three  excep- 
tions, are  of  wood,  and  a  small  garden  and  one 
or  more  store-houses  are  attached  to  each.  The 
frames  are  constructed  in  Norway,  and  brought 
hither.  At  the  west  end  of  the  merchants'  street 
stand  the  public  stocks,  or  rather  pillory ;  for  the 
culprit  stands  on  a  block,  with  his  arms  secured  in 
two  iron  rings.  An  observatory  stands  on  a  height, 
west  of  the  town.  For  twenty  miles  round  Reyki- 
avik,  the  country  is  flat  and  barren. 

Reykiavik  comes  under  the  censure  of  the  rever- 
end traveller  Henderson.  He  describes  it  thus  : 
'  It  is  totally  destitute  pf  the  means  of  intellectual 
gratification.  The  foreign  residents  idle  away  the 
day  with  their  tobacco  pipes,  and  spend  the  evening 
playing  at  cards  and  drinking  punch.  They  have 
two  or  three  balls  in  the  course  of  the  winter,  and 
the  principal  inhabitants  sometimes  enact  plays. 
An  instance  has  been  known  of  an  individual  who 
performed  a  part  in  a  play  late  on  Saturday  night 
appearing  in  the  pulpit  on  Sunday  morning,  in  the 
character  of  a  public  teacher  of  religion!'  &:c.  &c. 

In  the  bay,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  town  are 
several  small  islands,  the  resort  of  eider  duck  and 
other  aquatic  fowls.  Videy  is  the  principal  of  these, 
and  from  the  richness  of  its  pastures  is  thought  to 
be  the  most  desirable  spot  in  that  part  of  Iceland. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  27 

It  rests  on  pillars  of  basalt,  which,  with  the  crater  of 
an  extinct  volcano  near  the  houses,  leave  no  doubt 
that  it  was  thrown  up  by  a  submarine  eruption. 
Similar  appearances,  as  well  as  some  hot  springs, 
are  to  be  seen  near  Reykiavik. 

At  Thingvalla,  the  former  seat  of  the- National  As- 
sembly, there  is  no  town,  yet  the  spot  is  remarkable 
on  several  accounts.  The  Blot  Steinn,  or  stone 
where  human  victims  were  sacrificed  is  still  to  be 
seen  there,  in  the  centre  of  a  circle  of  other  large 
stones.  It  is  of  an  oblong  shape,  with  a  sharp  sum- 
mit like  the  steep  roof  of  a  house,  on  which  the  backs 
of  the  victims  Avere  broken.  Similar  circles  abound 
in  ancient  Scandinavia,  and  it  is  extremely  probable 
that  Stonehenge  and  other  druidical  circles  in  Great 
Britain  were  erected  for  the  like  purpose.  Thingval- 
la is  on  the  border  of  a  lake  called  Thingvalla  Vatn. 

Holum  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Holarbyrde.  It  is  a  pretty  village,  and  has  the  finest 
church  in  the  island.  It  formerly  boasted  a  printing 
press  and  a  school ;  but  the  press  w^as  removed,  and 
the  school  merged  in  that  of  Bessastad.  Mountains 
bound  the  prospect  on  every  side.  Three  editions 
of  the  Icelandic  Bible  were  printed  in  Holum. 

Akur  Eyri  is  one  of  the  principal  trading  stations 
on  the  north  coast  of  Iceland.  It  is  situated  on  the 
west  side  of  Egafiord  Bay,  and  consists  of  eighteen 
or  twenty  dwellings  and  store-houses. 

The  other  villages  are  not  remarkable  for  any- 
thing. They  have  few  houses,  and  are  no  way  dis- 
tinguishable but  by  their  vicinity  to  churches,  moun- 
tains, hot  springs,  or  other  land  marks.     Indeed  the 


28  POLAR    REGIONS. 

population  of  Iceland  is  very  sparingly  distribu- 
ted. It  is  supposed  to  have  been  much  greater 
in  former  times  than  at  present.  Successive  epi- 
demics have  swept  the  inhabitants  away.  The  small 
pox  cut  off  sixteen  thousand  in  1708.  The  last 
census,  of  1801,  gave  a  result  of  fortyseven  thousand 
two  hundred  and  seven,  since  which  there  has  been 
an  increase  of  three  or  four  thousand. 

The  form  of  worship  in  the  churches  of  Iceland 
is  Lutheran,  and  if  the  churches  are  less  elegant  than 
those  of  other  countries,  it  is  not  owilig  to  a  lack  of 
will  to  build  better,  but  to  the  poverty  of  the  inhab- 
itants. Beside  the  Episcopal  See  at  Reykiavik,  there 
is  an  archdeacon,  who  supplies  the  place  of  the  bi- 
shop in  case  of  sickness  or  absence,  and  there  are 
eighteen  deans,  who  superintend  the  clergy  within 
their  respective  district?. 

The  number  of  parishes  in  Iceland  is  one  hundred 
and  eightyfour ;  but  as  someof  them  include  a  large 
territorial  space,  it  has  been  found  expedient  to 
build  two  or  three  churches  in  them.  There  are 
three  hundred  and  five  churches  in  all.  Some  of  the 
priests  have  assistants.  They  are  all  natives  of  the 
island,  and  are  maintained  by  the  cultivation  of  glebes 
attached  to  the  churches,  and  by  certain  ty  thes  levied 
on  the  peasantry.  The  provision  is  extremely  scan- 
ty ;  the  best  hving  on  the  island  does  not  produce 
two  hundred  six  dollars.  Most  of  them  have  a  sti- 
pend of  from  twenty  to  thirty,  and  in  some  instan- 
ces it  does  not  exceed  five. 

Nevertheless,  the  Icelandic  clergy  are  in  general 
attentive  to  the  discharge  of  their  duties  and  to  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  29 

education  of  the  young,  according  to  their  own  ideas 
of  education.  Every  priest  keeps  what  he  calls 
his  *  register  of  souls,'  which  contains  a  statement 
of  the  situation,  character,  &c.,  of  every  individual 
in  his  parish.  The  books  belonging  to  each  family 
are  also  entered  therein. 

The  ecclesiastics  are  naturally  divided  into  two 
classes.  Those  of  the  old  school  receive  the  bible 
with  implicit  deference,  as  the  word  of  God ;  those 
of  the  new,  are  few  in  number,  and  discard,  or  at 
least  do  not  insist  on  the  divine  inspiration  of  the 
scriptures,  or  inculcate  doctrinal  points.  They 
preach  the  excellence  of  pure  lives  and  morals 
instead,  and  often  illustrate  their  maxims  by  re- 
ference to  profane  writers. 

The  habits  of  the  inhabitants  are  essentially  re- 
ligious ;  they  attend  public  worship  regularly,  and 
their  priests  have  much  influence  with  them.  As 
to  the  clergy  themselves,  they  have  little  communi- 
cation with  each  other,  and  consequently  little  of 
the  esprit  du  corps. 

As  there  are  none  or  few  parish  schools  in  Ice- 
land, the  mental  cultivation  of  youth  depends  in  a 
great  measure  on  the  parents.  In  general  these 
are  not  wanting  in  their  duty,  for  their  sense  of  na- 
tional honor  and  of  self-respect  is  very  high.  The 
children  are  taught  their  letters  by  their  mother,  and 
the  higher  branches  of  education  by  their  father  : 
every  clergyman  is  bound  to  visit  the  several  fami- 
lies twice  or  three  times  a  year,  and  on  such  occa- 
sions he  catechizes  old  and  young. 

These  are  the  only  opportunities  of  learning  that 
3* 


30  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  bulk  of  the  Icelandic  population  enjoy ;  never- 
theless, emulation  of  their  forefathers,  the  desire  and 
necessity  of  knowledge,  and  their  excellent  domes- 
tic habits  stimulate  them  to  exertion  ;  and  in  many 
cases,  the  amount  of  science  and  hterature  acquired 
is  truly  astonishing.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  hear 
ragged  peasants  discussing  topics,  which,  in  other 
countries,  are  only  propounded  from  the  chairs  of 
learned  professors. 

There  is  a  school  at  Bessastad,  at  which  twenty- 
five  students  are  admitted.  They  are  taught  arith- 
metic, history,  geography,  and  theology,  as  well  as 
the  Latin,  Greek,  Danish  and  Icelandic  tongues, 
and  the  elements  of  Hebrew.  The  library  consists 
of  a  thousand  volumes,  of  which  the  greater  part  are 
theological.  None  are  admitted  at  this  seminary 
but  such  as  come  recommended  by  the  clergymen 
of  their  respective  parishes,  which  recommendation 
must  be  approved  by  the  bishop,  to  w^hose  super- 
intendence the  institution  is  committed.  The  school 
is  supported  by  the  rents  of  landed  estates  set 
apart  for  the  purpose. 

The  period  allotted  for  instruction  begins  about 
the  first  of  October  and  lasts  till  the  end  of  May, 
when  the  students  undergo  an  examination.  The 
time  they  are  permitted  to  remain  is  not  determi- 
nate, but  depends  on  the  industry  and  ability  of  the 
individual.  If  any  one  is  so  dull  as  not  to  pass  after 
seven  examinations,  he  is  dismissed  as  incapable  of 
tuition.  Those  who  pass  an  honorable  examination 
obtain  a  dimissus,  and  after  some  farther  study  may 
become  candidates  for  public  offices.     Some  of  the 


POLAR  REGIONS.  31 

young  men,  who  have  wealthy  connexions,  are  sent 
to  the  university  at  Copenhagen ;  but  very  few  of 
the  Icelandic  clergy  have  any  other  education  than 
that  obtained  at  Bessastad ;  which  is  the  only  con- 
siderable school  on  the  island. 

Of  so  much  importance  is  proper  instruction  con- 
sidered, that  parents  are  punished  for  neglecting  it. 
Henderson  speaks  of  the  inhabitants  of  Lagavfliot  as 
exceptions  in  the  character  of  the  population,  being 
addicted  to  sloth,  swearing,  and  slander.  On  one  oc- 
casion they  were  summoned  before  the  Sysselman's 
court,  to  answer  for  their  conduct.  It  appeared 
that  the  children  had  composed  nidingavisar,  or 
satiric  songs  (to  which  the  Icelanders  have  ever 
been  addicted)  on  the  parish  priest  and  others,  even 
on  their  own  parents.  They  were  sentenced  to  be 
beaten  with  rods,  and  to  do  pubhc  penance  in  church, 
as  an  awful  warning  to  the  congregation.  For  neg- 
lecting or  failing  to  teach  their  children  better, 
the  parents  were  fined  sixtyeight  rix  dollars,  forty- 
eight  for  the  use  of  the  poor,  and  the  rest  to  defray 
the  cost  of  the  suit. 

The  art  of-  writing  in  Roman  letters  (for  the  use 
of  Runic  characters  was  known  long  before),  was 
introduced  into  Iceland  in  1057.  The  historical 
composition  of  Icelandic  writers  are  very  nume- 
rous, and  are  known  by  the  name  of  Sagas.  Most 
of  them  are  worthy  of  full  credit.  Their  minute- 
ness and  simplicity  are  strong  evidence  of  their 
truth,  and  their  authenticity  is  established  beyond  a 
doubt  by  volumes  of  extrinsic  testimony.  Some  of 
these  writers  studied  in  Europe,  but  Ari  Frode  and 


32  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Snorro  Sturluson  never  left  their  native  island. 
The  golden  age  of  Icelandic  literature  was  from  the 
beginning  of  the  twelfth  to  the  middle  of  the  four- 
teenth century. 

The  ancient  Scandinavians  were,  and  the  Ice- 
landers are,  possessed  of  a  peculiar  and  origi- 
nal national  poetry ;  deeply  tinged  with  the  bold- 
ness and  enthusiasm  that  distinguished  the  race 
of  Odin.  The  gift  of  poetry  was  supposed  to  be 
inherited  from  Odin  himself.  The  skalds,  from 
whom  it  emanated,  were  bards  by  profession,  and 
rehearsed  their  effusions  for  the  amusement  and  in- 
struction of  assembled  companies.  Their  subjects 
were  the  history  and  the  warlike  deeds  of  their 
progenitors,  and  the  praises  and  exploits  of  the 
gods  of  their  ferocious  mythology. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  ninth  century  the 
Runic  bards  abandoned  the  simple  and  natural  style 
of  antiquity.  They  reduced  their  compositions  to 
metrical  rules,  and  introduced  several  new  species 
of  versification.  Nor  was  the  new  manner  more 
different  from  the  old  than  the  matter.  While  the 
earlier  poems  embraced  abstract  ideas,  ethics  and 
the  pleasures  of  pastoral  life,  the  latter  was  exclu- 
sively martial.  From  the  death  of  Regner  Lodbrok, 
who  died  in  the  latter  part  of  the  eighth  century,  in 
the  space  of  three  centuries,  we  find  the  names  of 
two  hundred  poets,  whose  existence  is  established 
by  indubitable  proof.  Fragments  of  eighty  of  these, 
most  of  them  natives  of  Iceland,  are  preserved, 
which  show  us  how  great  a  loss  we  have  had  in  the 
rest.     Since  the  reformation,  the  Icelandic  poets 


POLAR    REGIONS.  33 

have  in  a  great  measure  confined  themselves  to  re- 
ligious subjects  and  to  translation. 

In  the  death  song  of  Regner  Lodbrok,  we  have 
a  striking  instance  of  the  spirit  which  marked  the 
poetry  of  his  time.  Regner  was  a  king  of  Denmark, 
who  was  made  prisoner  by  Duke  Ella,  in  a  predato- 
ry descent  on  the  coast  of  Northumberland.  As  a 
punishment  for  the  havoc  he  had  made,  he  was  shut 
up  with  serpents ;  and  while  he  w^as  dying  of  their 
venom,  he  sung  his  death  song.  To  save  farther 
remarks  on  this  topic,  we  conclude  this  chapter 
with  a  few  verses  translated  from  it. 

CHORUS. 

We  hewed  with  our  swords. 

LODBROK. 

High  I  bore  my  lance,  and  wide  I  carried  my  ensanguined 
blade  before  I  numbered  twenty  years.  Eight  earls  graced 
my  triumph  at  the  Dwina's  mouth — there  we  the  falcon  enter- 
tained with  plenteous  meals.  The  crimson  sweat  of  death 
poured  on  the  sullen  sea.     Warriors  lost  their  lives, 

CHORUS. 

We  hewed  with  our  swords. 

LODBROK. 

On  LFlla's  plain  loud  roared  the  spear,  ere  to  our  force  king 
Eistein  bowed.  Gleaming  in  gold  we  traversed  the  field  of 
slaughter.  The  tapering  lance,  indignant,  bored  the  shield, 
at  the  helm'd  conflict.  Rills  of  winy  hue,  warm  from  the 
wounded  neck,  flowed  down  the  hero's  shoulder. 

CHORUS. 

We  hewed  with  our  swords. 

LODBROK. 

I  sought  a  noble  mother  for  my  children — one  that  might  im- 
part adventurous  hearts  to  our  posterity.  Now  to  my  heir 
devolves  the  crown.    Grim  seem  the  terrors  of  the  adder.     Ser- 


34  POLAR    REGIONS. 

pents  rest  within  my  heart's  recesses — yet  't  is  the  cordial  of 
my  soul  that  Vithris'  lance  shall  soon  stick  fast  in  Ella.  My 
sons  will  swell  with  vengeance  at  their  parent's  doom — those 
generous  youths  will,  sure,  forego  the  sweets  of  peace. 

CHORUS. 

We  hewed  with  our  swords. 

LODBROK. 

Full  fifty  times  my  lance,  dire  devastation's  harbinger,  an- 
nounced the  distant  enterprise.  Methinks  no  king  has  truer 
cause  to  glory.  It  was  the  pastime  of  my  boyish  days,  to  tinge 
my  spear  with  blood.  The  immortals  will  permit  my  presence 
in  their  company.     'No  sigh  shall  ever  disgrace  my  exit. 

CHORUS. 

We  hewed  with  our  swords. 

LODBROK. 

See  !  the  celestial  virgins,  sent  from  that  hall  where  Odin's 
martial  train  reside,  invite  me  home.  There,  happy  on  my 
high  raised  throne,  I  '11  quaff  the  barley's  mellowed  juices.  The 
moments  of  my  life  are  fled.  The  smiles  of  death  compose  my 
placid  visage. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Personal  Appearance  of  the  Icelanders.— Character,  Language,  and  Literature. 
— Dress  of  the  Males. — Dress  of  the  Females. 

The  Icelanders  of  the  present  day  are  tall,  of  a 
frank  open  countenance,  a  florid  complexion,  and 
yellow  flaxen  hair.  The  women  are  shorter  in 
proportion,  and  more  inclined  to  corpulency  than 
the  men  ;  but  many  of  them  would  look  handsome 
in  a  modern  European  dress.  In  youth,  both  sexes 
are  generally  of  a  very  weakly  habit  of  body,  which 
is  the  necessary  consequence  of  their  want  of  pro- 
per exercise,  and  the  poorness  of  their  living ;  yet 
it  is  surprising  what  great  hardships  they  are  capa- 


POLAR  REGIONS.  35 

ble  of  enduring  in  after  life.  It  is  seldom  that  any 
of  them  attain  to  a  very  advanced  age  ;  however,  the 
females  commonly  live  longer  than  the  men.  Owing 
to  the  nature  of  their  food,  their  w^ant  of  personal 
cleanliness,  and  their  being  often  obliged  to  sit  long 
in  wet  woollen  clothes,  they  are  greatly  exposed  to 
cutaneous  diseases.  They  are  also  frequently  at- 
tacked with  obstina-te  coughs  and  pulmonary  com- 
plaints, by  which  perhaps  more  are  carried  off  an- 
nually than  by  any  other  disease. 

Their  predominant  character  is  that  of  unsuspect- 
ing frankness,  pious  contentment,  and  a  steady 
liveliness  of  temperament,  combined  with  a  strength 
of  intellect  and  acuteness  of  mind  seldom  to  be 
met  with  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  They  have 
also  been  noted  for  the  almost  unconquerable  attach- 
ment which  they  feel  to  their  native  island.  With 
all  their  privations,  and  exposed., as  they  are  to 
numerous  dangers  from  the  operation  of  physical 
causes,  they  Hve  under  the  practical  influence  of 
one  of  their  common  proverbs  :  Island  er  hinn 
besta  land  sem  solinn  skinnar  uppa.  '  Iceland  is  the 
best  land  on  which  the  sun  shines.' 

In  the  persons,  habits,  and  customs  of  the  pre- 
sent inhabitants  of  Iceland,  we  are  furnished  with  a 
faithful  picture  of  those  exhibited  by  their  Scandi- 
navian ancestors.  They  adhere  most  rigidly  to 
whatever  has  once  been  adopted  as  a  national  cus- 
tom, and  the  few  innovations  that  have  been  intro- 
duced by  foreigners  are  scarcely  visible  beyond  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  their  factories.  Their  lan- 
guage, dress,  and  mode  of  life,  have  been  invariably 


36  POLAR   REGIONS. 

the  same  during  a  period  of  nine  centuries  ;  whilst 
those  of  other  nations  have  been  subjected  to  nu- 
merous vicissitudes,  according  to  the  diversity  of 
external  circumstances,  and  the  caprices  of  certain 
individuals,  whose  influence  has  been  sufficiently 
powerful  to  impart  a  new  tone  to  the  society  in 
which  they  moved.  Habituated  from  their  earhest 
years  to  hear  of  the  character  of  their  ancestors, 
and  the  asylum  which  their  native  island  afforded 
to  the  sciences,  when  the  rest  of  Europe  was  im- 
mersed in  ignorance  and  barbarism,  the  Icelanders 
naturally  possess  a  high  degree  of  national  feeling, 
and  there  is  a  certain  dignity  and  boldness  of  car- 
riage observable  in  numbers  of  the  peasants,  which 
at  once  indicate  a  strong  sense  of  propriety  and 
independence. 

The  Icelandic  is  justly  regarded  as  the  standard 
of  the  grand  northern  dialect  of  the  Gothic  language. 
While  the  Swedish  and  Danish,  and  even  the  Nor- 
wegian, which  is  a  kind  of  middle  dialect,  have 
been  more  or  less  subject  to  the  influence  of  the 
Teutonic  or  German  branch,  that  originally  spoken 
in  Scandinavia,  has  been  preserved  in  all  its  purity 
in  Iceland.  In  the  middle  ages,  it  was  known  by 
the  name  of  Donsk  Tunga,  or,  the  Danish  Tongue ; 
the  Icelanders  at  first  called  it  Norraena,  because 
they  had  brought  it  along  with  them  from  Norway, 
which  name  pretty  much  resembles  that  of  Norns, 
or  Norse,  by  which  the  corrupt  dialect,  spoken  till 
within  these  few  years  in  some  parts  of  Orkney, 
has  been  designated;  and  it  was  not  till  after  it 
had  ceased  to  be  spoken  on  the  continent,  that  it 


POLAR  REGIONS.  37 

assumed  the  name  of  Icelandic.  The  remoteness 
of  this  island,  and  the  little  intercourse  which  its 
inhabitants  have  maintained  with  the  rest  of  the 
world,  have  effectually  secured  the  purity  and  ori- 
ginality of  this  ancient  language  ;  and  it  is  a  curious 
fact,  that  while  our  ablest  antiquaries  are  often  puz- 
zled, in  endeavouring  to  decipher  certain  words 
and  phrases  in  writings  which  date  their  origin  only 
a  few  centuries  back ;  there  is  not  a  peasant,  nor 
indeed,  scarcely  a  servant  girl  in  Iceland  who  is 
not  capable  of  reading  with  ease  the  most  ancient 
documents  extant  on  the  island. 

The  early  and  successful  application  of  the  Ice- 
landers to  the  study  of  the  sciences,  forms  a  per- 
fect anomaly  in  the  history  of  literature.  At  a 
period  when  the  darkest  gloom  was  spread  over 
the  European  horizon,  the  inhabitants  of  this  com- 
paratively barren  island,  near  the  north  pole,  were 
cultivating  the  arts  of  poetry  and  history ;  and  lay- 
ing up  stores  of  know^ledge,  which  were  not  merely 
to  supply  posterity  with  data,  respecting  the  domes- 
tic and  political  affairs  of  their  native  country,  but 
were  also  destined  to  furnish  very  ample  and  satis- 
factory information  on  a  great  multiplicity  of  im- 
portant points  connected  with  the  history  of  other 
nations.  To  this  a  wonderful  combination  of  cir- 
cumstances proved  favorable.  The  Norwegians 
who  first  went  over  to  Iceland,  were  sprung  from 
some  of  the  most  distinguished  families  in  the  land 
of  their  nativity.  They  had  been  accustomed  from 
their  infancy  to  listen  to  traditionary  tales  of  the 
deeds  of  other  years;  they  had  frequented  the 
4 


38  POLAR  REGIONS. 

public  assemblies,  where  they  saw  the  value  and 
importance  of  knowledge ;   and  in  the  course   of 
their  numerous  practical  expeditions  and  invasions, 
they  had   obtained   an  intimate   acquaintance  with 
the  situation,  poHtics,  history,  &c.,  of  the  different 
countries  of  Europe.     Being  in  the  habit  of  cloth- 
ing all  events  of  importance  in  poetic  language,  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  these  events  was  secured  to 
posterity,  while  the  share  that  some  of  themselves, 
or  their  immediate  ancestors  had  had  in  any  of 
them,  naturally  excited  a  desire  to  recite  them  in 
the  family  circle  ;  and  the  undisturbed  enjoyment 
of  tranquillity,  during  a  long  winter  of  eight  months 
continuance,  afforded  them  the  best  opportunities 
of  bending  their  attention  to  the  study  of  the  differ- 
ent branches  of  literature. 

On  inquiring  into  the  state  of  mental  cultivation 
m  Iceland,  it  is  not  so  much  the  literary  fame  of  a 
few  select  individuals,  who  have  enjoyed  superior 
advantages,  which  strikes  our  attention,  as  the  uni- 
versal diffusion  of  the  general  principles  of  know- 
ledge among  its  inhabitants.     Though  there  is  only 
one   school   in   Iceland,   and   that    is   exclusively 
designed  for  the  education  of  such   as   are   after 
to   fill  offices  in  church   or   state ;    yet   it   is  ex- 
ceedingly rare  to  meet  with  a  boy  or  girl,   who 
has  attained  the  age  of  nine  or  ten  years,  that  cannot 
read  and  write  with  ease.     Domestic  education  is 
most  rigidly  attended  to ;    and  it  is  no  uncommon 
thing   to   hear  youths   repeat  passages    from   the 
Greek  and  Latin  authors,  w^ho  have  never  been  far- 
ther than  a  few  miles  from  the  place  they  were 


POLAR  REGIONS.  39 

born.  Nor  is  there  scarcely  a  hut,  where  there  is 
not  some  individual  capable  of  conversing  on  to- 
pics which  would  be  reckoned  altogether  above  the 
understandings  of  people  in  the  same  rank  of  so- 
ciety in  other  countries  of  Europe.  On  many  oc- 
casions, indeed,  the  common  Icelanders  discover 
an  acquaintance  with  the  history  and  literature  of 
other  nations,  which  is  perfectly  astonishing. 

In  their  general  habits  and  dispositions,  the  Ice- 
landers are  a  very  moral  and  religious  people. 
They  are  carefully  instructed  in  the  principles  of 
Christianity  at  an  early  period  of  life,  and  regularly 
attend  to  the  public  ^d  private  exercises  of  devo- 
tion. Instances  of  immorality  are  in  a  great  meas- 
ure confined  to  such  as  frequent  the  fishing  places, 
where  they  are  often  idle  for  days  together. 

The  male  Icelanders  w^ear  shirts  of  wadmel, 
(coarse  woollen  cloth)  and  blue  waistcoats ;  jackets 
and  trowsers  of  the  same  material,  edged  with  red. 
At  home  they  w^ear  a  cloth  cap,  but  when  they  go 
abroad  they  put  on  broad-brimmed  hats,  as  also 
cloaks  to  defend  them  from  the  cold  and  rain. 

A  reverend  traveller  speaks  of  the  costume  of  the 
females  as  having  reminded  him  of  the  necessity  of 
*  robes  of  righteousness  and  garments  of  salvation : ' 
and  as  it  is  very  becoming,  we  shall  attempt  a  de- 
scription of  it. 

Next  the  body  is  a  garment  of  wadmel,  fastened  at 
the  neck  with  a  brass  or  silver  button.  Beside  two 
or  three  blue  skirts  of  the  same  stuff,  they  have  a 
blue  apron,  bordered  w^ith  black  velvet  and  fringed 
at  the  top  with  brass  or  silver  ornaments.     The 


40  POLAR  REGIONS. 

jacket  or  bodice  is  of  red  or  black  wadmel,  the 
back  seams  of  which  are  covered  with  stripes  of 
velvet,  and  in  front  are  two  broad  borders  of  the 
same,  elegantly  ornamented  with  silver  clasps  by 
which  it  is  fastened,  and  with  a  profusion  of  em- 
broidery. A  girdle,  garnished  with  polished  pebbles, 
or  silver,  secures  the  apparel.  Round  the  neck  is 
worn  a  ruff  of  black  velvet  two  inches  broad,  and 
embroidered  with  silver  thread. 

Above  the  bodice  is  another  jacket,  of  black 
wadmel,  with  tight  sleeves,  garnished  at  the  wrists 
with  silver  buttons.  Over  all,  is  a  black  cloak  bor- 
dered with  velvet.  Blue  or  red  worsted  stockings, 
and  painted  sheepskin  shoes  complete  the  costume. 
Those  in  good  circumstances  wear  silver  medals, 
suspended  from  the  neck  by  chains  of  the  same 
metal,  with  legends  of  religious  import. 

But  a  curious  and  fantastic  head-gear  disfigures 
the  whole  fabric.  It  is  made  of  white  hnen,  stiffened 
with  pins,  and  rising  from  the  head  to  the  height  of 
twenty  inches.     The  bridal  dress  is  still  richer. 


«■ 


POLAR  REGIONS.  41 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Cold  in  Iceland. — Polar  Ice. — Winter. — Summer. — The  Fishery. — Summer 
Occupation  of  the  Icelanders.— ^Occupation  of  the  Women. — Treatment  of 
Strangers. — Pastoral  Life. — Houses  of  the  Icelanders. — A  Winter  Eve- 
ning in  Iceland. — Horses. — Reindeer. — Visit  to  the  Trading  Houses.— 
Exports  and  Imports. 

The  cold  is  not  more  intense  in  Iceland  than  in 
the  most  favored  part  of  Denmark,  and  the  thermom- 
eter seldom  or  never  sinks  to  zero.  What  affects  the 
temperature  most  is  the  arrival  of  floating  ice  from 
Greenland.  It  arrives  in  immense  masses,  often  so 
large  as  to  run  aground  in  eighty  fathoms,  choking 
the  friths  and  bays  and  extending  so  far  that  its  ex- 
tremities cannot  be  discerned  from  the  mountain 
tops.  In  1766  the  whole  strait  between  Iceland 
and  Greenland  was  closed  by  it,  but  it  seldom  sur- 
rounds the  whole  island. 

When  it  remains  for  a  long  time  on  the  coast, 
the  winter  snows  are  longer  in  melting,  the  frost 
remains  in  the  ground,  vegetation  is  checked,  and 
the  summer  is  so  short  that  the  people  have  great 
difficulty  to  get  in  their  hay.  Polar  bears  are  also 
brought  on  the  ice.  When  it  is  known  that  one  of 
these  has  arrived,  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  turn 
out  en  masse  in  pursuit.  He  who  kills  the  bear 
not  only  gets  a  good  price  for  the  skin,  but  re- 
ceives a  considerable  reward  from  the  king  of 
Denmark. 

The   Aurora  Borealis  is  seen  in  all  its  beauty 
during  the  winter,  almost  every  clear  night.     Some- 
times a  steady  stream  of  light  shoots  across  the 
4# 


42  POLAR  REGIONS. 

horizon,  but  more  commonly  the  corruscations  ex- 
hibit a  tremulous  motion,  leaping  and  dancing  about 
with  amazing  velocity.  They  are  mostly  of  a  faint 
yellow,  but  are  sometimes  mixed  with  red  and 
green. 

The  distance  between  the  houses,  the  rents  and 
chasms  in  the  lava  then  hidden  by  snow,  and  the 
half  frozen  rivers,  with  many  other  obstacles,  pre- 
vent the  Icelander  from  travelling  farther  in  winter 
than  his  own  parish  church ;  and  he  is  often  com- 
pelled, however  reluctant,  to  abandon  this  tour  for 
weeks  together. 

Strictly  speaking,  there  are  but  two  seasons  in 
Iceland ;  summer  and  winter ;  the  former  of  which 
must  be  dihgently  spent  in  preparation  for  the  lat- 
ter.    From  the  third  of  February  to  the   twelfth 
of  May  is  what  they  call  the  fishing  season.     At 
this  period  they  flock  to  the  southern  and  west- 
ern shores,  clad  in  dresses  made  of  skins.     Du- 
ring this  time  their  food  is  butter  and  fish,  which 
they  only  eat  early  in  the  morning  and  late  in  the 
evening,  the  rest  of  the  hours  being  spent  at  sea. 
The  boats  are  manned  with  from  six  to  nine  hands 
each,  and  row^a  great  way  out. 

When  they  return  to  land  the  fish  are  divided 
into  separate  shares,  two  of  which  the  owner  of  the 
boat  claims  for  the  use  of  it  and  of  his  hooks  and 
lines.  The  fishermen  retire  to  rest,  and  the  fish  are 
cared  for  by  the  women.  The  fish  are  mostly 
cod. 

When  the  snow  leaves  the  ground,  the  men  col- 
lect turf  for  fuel,  and  to  cover  the  roofs  of  the  houses, 


POLAR  REGIONS.  43 

&LC.  When  the  young  cattle  have  been  driven  to 
the  mountains,  the  care  of  the  sheep  and  cows,  and 
the  labors  of  the  dairy  devolve  on  the  females,  who 
about  the  middle  of  the  summer  repair  to  the  waste 
lands  to  collect  edible  lichen.  This  time  they  spend 
in  tents  as  before  mentioned,  and  in  the  mean  while 
the  men  fish  in  the  fresh  waters,  or  visit  the  fac- 
tories. 

The  most  important  part  of  Icelandic  rural  labor 
is  haymaking.  About  the  middle  of  July  the  grass 
is  mowed  and  gathered  in  a  convenient  place  to 
dry,  and  then  conveyed  to  the  yard,  where  it  is 
made  into  stacks.  In  poor  famihes  the  females 
as  well  as  the  men  handle  the  scythe. 

Hay  harvest  over,  the  sheep  and  cattle  are  brought 
in,  and  the  occupations  of  the  season  conclude. 
The  horses  are  left  to  shift  for  themselves  all  win- 
ter, and  the  men  attend  to  the  cows  and  sheep. 
Winter  sets  in,  and  the  males  forge  the  necessary 
implements  of  iron,  copper,  &c.,  for  they  are  all 
smiths,  and  some  of  them  are  wonderfully  expert. 
They  also  prepare  leather  for  shoes,  make  ropes, 
and  full  the  woollen  stuffs. 

Beside  their  culinary  avocations,  the  females 
employ  themselves  in  spinning  with  the  spindle  and 
distaff,  knitting,  and  making  and  mending  clothes. 

It  would  appear  that  the  Icelanders  are  kind,  and 
hospitable  to  strangers,  as  they  are  in  the  habit  of 
bidding  them  'come  in  peace,'  and  invoking  bless- 
ing on  their  heads,  as  well  as  of  mounting  them  on 
their  shoulders  to  carry  them  ashore  when  they  land. 
In  every  house  there  is  a  room  set  apart  for  the  ac- 


* 


44  POLAR  REGIONS. 

commodation  of  strangers,  which  is  always  the  best 
in  the  house.  On  entering  a  house,  the  salutation 
of  the  visitor  is  '  May  God  be  in  this  place ; '  and 
the  reply  is,  '  The  Lord  bless  you,'  even  when  the 
visit  is  at  an  unseasonable  hour,  and  very  inconveni- 
ent. On  entering,  etiquette  requires  to  salute  the 
family  in  regular  order,  from  first  to  last,  beginning 
with  the  highest  in  rank ;  but  departing,  the  order 
is  reversed. 

Nothing  can  be  more  truly  polite  and  sincerely 
affectionate  than  their  reception  of  unwonted  guests. 
Their  humors  are  studied,  their  wants  watched, 
and  every  effort  is  made  to  comply  with  the  one,  and 
to  relieve  the  other. 

While  the  natives  are  gathering  the  hchen  of  Ice- 
land, or  pasturing  their  sheep  and  cattle,  in  the  waste 
lands,  in  the  summer,  they  dwell  in  tents,  much  Hke 
those  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs.  They  are  erected  in 
the  following  manner :  two  poles,  five  or  six  feet  long, 
are  stuck  fast  in  the  ground,  seven  or  eight  feet  apart. 
They  are  joined  at  the  top  by  a  third  pole,  over 
which  the  tent,  made  of  coarse  woollen,  is  spread, 
and  braced  tight  with  cords  fastened  to  the  eaves 
and  tied  at  the  other  end  to  crooked  wooden  pins 
which  are  driven  into  the  ground.  The  flaps  are 
provided  with  small  holes  round  the  border,  and  are 
secured  in  the  same  manner,  excepting  at  one  end 
where  a  small  portion  is  left  loose  to  serve  as  a 
door.  The  natives  pass  several  weeks  on  the  moun- 
tains every  summer,  in  these  tents,  and  are  quite 
partial  to  this  primitive  way  of  living. 

In  general  the  permanent  houses  of  the  islanders 


POLAR  REGIONS.  45 

are  built  alike,  in  the  fashion  of  the  original  settlers 
from  Norway.  The  walls  are  about  four  feet  high, 
and  six  feet  thick,  and  are  composed  of  alternate  lay- 
ers of  earth  and  stone,  inclining  a  little  inward  :  they 
are  met  by  a  sloping  roof  of  turf,  supported  by  a 
few  beams,  which  are  crossed  by  twigs  and  branch- 
es of  birch.  Good  grass  grows  on  the  roof,  which  is 
always  mowed  at  the  time  of  haymaking.  In  front 
of  the  house  there  are  three  doors.  The  middle 
one  opens  into  a  long,  dark  passage,  into  which  are 
entrances  from  either  side  from  different  apartments, 
such  as  the  stranger's  room,  the  weaving  room,  the 
kitchen,  and  the  sleeping  room,  which  last  serves  for 
a  sitting  and  working  apartment,  as  well  as  a  dormi- 
tory. The  Hght  is  admitted  through  small  apertures 
in  the  roof,  covered  with  thin  sheepskin,  though  in 
some  instances  glass  is  substituted.  Such  houses  as 
have  windows  in  the  walls  resemble  the  exterior  of  a 
bastion.  The  smoke  escapes  through  a  hole  in  the  roof 
from  the  kitchen  only ;  for  no  fire  is  made  in  any  other 
apartment,  even  during  the  coldest  winter  weather. 
The  beds  are  arranged  on  both  sides  of  the  room? 
on  open  bedsteads  raised  three  feet  from  the  ground. 
They  are  filled  with  sea-weed,  feathers,  or  down? 
according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  occupant. 
One  or  two  folds  of  coarse  woollen  cloth  and  a 
parti-colored  quilt  are  thrown  over  the  bed.  Though 
these  beds  are  narrow  the  Icelanders  contrive  to 
sleep  double,  by  lying  in  the  manner  vulgarly  called 
heads  and  points.  Sometimes  the  walls  are  pan- 
nelled  with  boards,  but  more  commonly  they  are 
bare,  and  collect  so  much  dust  that  nothing  can  be 


46  POLAR  REGIONS. 

kept  clean.  It  is  seldom  that  there  is  any  floor,  and 
the  health  of  the  inmates  is  often  greatly  prejudiced 
by  the  dampness  of  the  earth.  Travellers  complain 
much  of  the  filth  and  stench  of  the  Icelandic  houses, 
but  it  is  questionable  if  they  are  worse  in  this  respect 
than  the  dwellings  of  the  Scotch  Highlanders  or 
the  peasantry  of  Ireland. 

The  other  front  doors  open  into  store  rooms, 
smithies,  and  other  offices,  and  there  are  commonly 
several  outhouses  for  sheep  and  cattle.  The  whole 
together,  with  the  haystacks  which  are  always  hard 
by,  present  an  appearance  by  no  means  unpleasant. 

A  winter  evening  spent  in  one  of  the  houses  we 
have  been  describing  would  be  highly  interesting. 
Between  three  and  four  o'clock  a  lamp  is  hghted  in 
the  sleeping-room,  and  all  the  family,  work  in  hand, 
take  their  stations  on  their  respective  beds.  The 
master  and  mistress  with  their  children  place  them- 
selves at  the  inner  end  of  the  room,  and  the  outer 
end  is  occupied  by  the  servants. 

One  person  takes  a  seat  near  the  lamp  and  begins 
to  read  some  ancient  saga,  or  other  history,  while 
the  rest  are  working.  The  reader  is  often  interrupt- 
ed by  the  members  of  the  family,  who  make  re- 
marks and  propose  questions,  in  order  to  exercise 
the  memory  and  judgment.  Some  have  the  sagas 
by  heart,  and  recite  instead  of  reading  them.  There 
are  some  itinerants  of  this  description  who  gain  a 
livelihood  in  winter  by  going  from  house  to  house 
till  their  stock  of  literature  is  exhausted.  This  cus- 
tom has  existed  among  the  Scandinavians  from  time 
immemorial. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  47 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  evening  labors,  which 
often  continue  till  near  midnight,  the  family  join  in  a 
psalm,  and  then  a  chapter  in  the  bible  or  some  other 
devotional  book  is  read.  A  prayer  from  the  head 
of  the  house  follows,  and  the  exercise  concludes  with 
a  psalm.  Their  morning  devotions  are  conducted 
in  the  same  manner.  When  one  awakes,  he  goes 
out  of  doors  and  utters  a  prayer  to  the  Supreme  Be- 
ing ;  then  re-entering,  he  salutes  every  one  he  meets 
with  '  God  grant  you  a  good  day.' 

The  common  horses  of  Iceland  are  sold  for  twen- 
ty-five or  thirty  shillings,  and  a  good  saddle-horse 
costs  five  pounds  sterling.  They  are  from  thirteen 
to  fourteen  hands  high,  strong,  hardy,  and  lively,  and 
will  carry  a  weight  of  twenty  stone  twenty  five  miles 
a  day.  They  are  broken  to  a  short,  easy  amble. 
Their  sagacity  is  surprising.  In  the  darkest  nights, 
when  the  rider  is  lost,  they  find  the  way  by  unerring 
instinct  over  the  most  broken  and  dangerous  ground, 
without  accident. 

There  are  abundance  of  sheep  in  Iceland,  but  as 
they  in  no  wise  differ  from  the  sheep  of  other  civiH- 
zed  countries  we  trust  to  be  excused  from  saying 
any  thing  about  them. 

Reindeer  were  introduced  into  the  island  from 
Lapland  by  the  Danish  government  in  1770.  The 
chmate  agrees  with  them,  and  they  have  so  multiphed 
that  numerous  herds  range  the  island,  and  are  seldom 
molested  by  the  inhabitants.  Sledges  are  entirely 
out  of  fashion,  or  they  might  easily  be  made  useful, 
as  they  are  docile  and  readily  submit  to  wear  har- 
ness. 


48  POLAR  REGIONS. 

Toward  the  middle  of  June  the  Icelander  pre- 
pares to  visit  the  factory,  or  mercantile  establish- 
ment, at  which  he  has  been  accustomed  to  trade. 
These  factories  are  established  by  the  Danish  mer- 
chants along  the  coast ;  but  many  of  the  inhabitants 
prefer  a  journey  to  Reykiavik,  where  there  is  a  com- 
petition, and  a  choice,  the  latter  being  a  thing  of  no 
little  importance  in  their  eyes.  The  price  of  each  ar- 
ticle is  commonly  fixed  by  the  merchants  beforehand. 

It  is  the  duty  of  the  Landfoged  and  the  Syssel- 
man  to  examine  all  weights  and  measures  before  the 
trade  commences ;  and  when  these  are  found  de- 
fective, the  proprietor  is  liable  to  a  fine. 

When  about  to  set  forth,  the  Icelanders  lay  large 
square  pieces  of  turf  on  their  horses'  backs,  over 
which  they  strap  a  w^ooden  saddle.  They  then  load 
the  animal  with  the  articles  of  their  traffic,  and  se- 
cure the  whole  with  leathern  thongs.  When  they 
reach  Reykiavik  they  pitch  their  tents  on  the  grass, 
near  the  town.  The  masters  then  leave  their  goods 
in  charge  of  their  servants,  and  ride  into  the  town 
to  make  their  bargains.  This  only  applies  to  such 
as  live  at  a  distance,  and  are  independent  of  the  mer- 
chants ;  for  the  names  of  a  large  majority  are  on  the 
wrong  side  of  the  shop  books  all  their  lives.  In- 
deed it  is  the  policy  of  the  dealers  to  have  many 
outstanding  debts,  in  order  to  secure  the  future  trade 
of  the  individuals  indebted.  They  are  threatened 
with  prosecution  in  case  of  trading  with  any  other, 
and  are  thus  kept  in  a  kind  of  servitude  all  their 
lives. 

The  exports  are  fish,  salted  mutton,  oil,  tallow, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  49 

woo],  woollen  stuffs,  skins,  feathers,  and  sulphur. 
The  imports  are  ;  rye,  barley,  oatmeal,  pease,  bread, 
potatoes,  rum,  brandy,  wine,  coffee,  tea,  sugar,  to- 
bacco, salt,  wood,  cottons,  silk  handkerchiefs,  and  so 
forth.  .  The  use  of  some  of  these  luxuries  has  of 
late  years  increased  beyond  the  means  of  the  inhab- 
itants. 

The  wants  of  Iceland  have  been  supplied  at  dif- 
ferent times  through  various  channels.  At  the 
breaking  out  of  the  war  of  1807,  between  Great 
Britain  and  Denmark,  the  Icelanders  were  apprehen- 
sive of  actual  starvation,  from  the  want  of  absolutely 
necessary  articles,  especially  hooks  and  lines,  with- 
out which  they  could  not  live.  To  the  immortal 
honor  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  who  interposed  in  their 
behalf,  the  British  government  decreed  that  the  or- 
dinary usages  of  war  should  not  be  extended  to  this 
unoffending  people,  and  that  their  supphes  should 
not  be  cut  off. 

Since  the  abolition  of  the  Althing,  the  annual  fair  of 
Reykiavik  furnishes  the  natives  with  their  only  op- 
portunity, whether  of  meeting,  or  of  transacting  pub- 
lic business.  The  change  has  displeased  most  of 
the  Icelanders,  and  in  some  degree  lessened  their 
pride  and  national  feehng. 

In  the  people  of  Iceland  we  see  a  proof,  if  a 
proof  were  needful,  that  the  happiness  of  a  people 
in  no  wise  depends  on  the  nature  of  the  country 
they  inhabit.  Few  persons  would  choose  Iceland 
for  a  residence  :  there  is  nothing  inviting  in  their 
barren  rocks  and  yawning  craters  ;  yet  would  they 
not  exchange  their  desolate  abode  for  any  in  the 
5 


50  POLAR    REGIONS. 

world.  We  have  reason  to  be  proud  of  Iceland,  as 
belonging  to  the  new  hemisphere.  The  virtue  of 
its  inhabitants,  their  moral  and  industrious  habits,  and 
their  love  of  country,  have  stood  the  test  of  time 
longer  than  those  of  any  race  whatever.  From  all 
that  appears,  these  are  likely  to  endure  as  long  as 
their  island. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Mifscellaneous  Particulars. — Of  the  Mineral  Kingdom  in   Iceland. — Vegeta- 
bles.— Drift  Wood. — Sketch  of  Spitzbergen. 

It  is  but  of  late  that  the  geographical  situation  of 
Iceland  has  been  accurately  determined,  or  that 
anything  respecting  it  has  been  accurately  known. 
It  was  not  till  the  year  1778  that  Messrs  Borda, 
Pingre,  and  De  La  Crenne  determined  several 
positions  astronomically,  and  ascertained  the  exact 
dimensions  of  the  island,  which  have  been  given 
in  another  chapter. 

It  will,  perhaps,  be  proper  to  say  something  of 
the  mineral  kingdom  in  Iceland,  so  far  as  it  is 
known,  In  many  places,  the  basalt,  of  which  the 
mountains  are  in  part  composed,  takes  the  form  of 
immense  masses  of  pillars,  like  the  well-known 
Giant's  Causeway  in  Iceland.  Mount  Akrefell  con- 
tains beds  of  amygdaloyd,  trap-tufF  and  greenstone  ; 
the  lower  surface  of  which  has  manifestly  been 
subjected  to  the  action  of  intense  heat,  probably  at 


POLAR    REGIONS.  51 

the  bottom  of  the  primitive  ocean.  Of  the  ordinary 
lava  there  are  several  different  formations.  One  of 
these  has  flowed,  and  in  some  places  still  flows,  in 
blazing  torrents,  from  active  craters :  another  kind, 
of  a  spongy  and  cavernous  nature,  appears  to  have 
boiled  up  in  the  very  places  where  it  is  found. 
In  the  numerous  caverns  formed  by  this  last,  the 
most  beautiful  stalactites  are  found.  The  great 
cave  at  Surtshellir,  already  described,  is  the  largest 
of  these.     Its  description  may  serve  for  them  all. 

This  island  may  without  impropriety  be  called 
the  safety  valve  of  the  earth :  none  of  its  phenomena 
better  prove  how  vast  the  mass  of  volcanic  matter 
must  be,  than  the  sudden  appearance  of  a  new 
island,  which  rose  up  to  the  southwest  of  Reikianess, 
in  63°  20'  latitude,  a  httle  before  the  eruption  of 
1783.  It  threw  out  flames  and  pumice-stone ;  yet 
when  search  was  made  for  it  two  years  after,  it  had 
entirely  disappeared.  It  appears  probable,  therefore, 
that  it  was  merely  a  crust  of  lava  and  pumice,  rais- 
ed to  the  surface  of  the  sea  by  a  submarine  erup- 
tion. Had  not  Iceland  kept  its  place  so  long,  we 
should  be  disposed  to  apply  the  same  remark  to  it. 
A  very  singular  mineral  production  of  Iceland  is 
a  kind  of  fossil  wood,  called  in  Icelandic,  Surtur- 
brand,  the  name  of  the  black  god,  or  Pluto  of  ancient 
Scandinavia.  It  is  black,  heavy,  and  slightly  car- 
bonized, burning  with  flame.  There  is  another  kind 
of  mineral  wood,  heavier  than  coal,  which  burns  with- 
out flame,  and  contains  chalcedony  in  its  trans- 
verse fissures. 

The  central  mountains  of  Iceland,  which  are  by 


52  POLAR    REGIONS. 

some  supposed  to  be  primitive,  contain  copper  and 
iron,  which  are  not  wrought  for  want  of  fuel ;  also 
marble,  lime,  plaster,  porcelain  clay,  and  several 
kihds  of  bole,  beside  onyx,  agate,  jasper,  and  other 
stones.  Sulphur  is  found  in  abundance  all  over  the 
island,  both  in  a  pure  and  impure  state.  The  most 
considerable  mines  are  at  Krisevig  and  Husavig :  at 
the  latter  place  there  is  a  manufactory  for  refining 
it.  The  sulphur  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  mount 
Krabla  have  already  been  noticed. 

Iceland  produces  no  salt;  but  the  surrounding 
sea  is  as  deeply  impregnated  as  the  Mediterranean. 
The  salt  obtained  from  it,  imparts  a  bluish  color  to 
fish. 

The  air  is  not  without  its  prodigies.  Through 
an  atmosphere  filled  with  icy  particles  the  sun  and 
moon  often  appear  double,  or  distorted  into  extra- 
ordinary and  fantastic  forms.  The  aurora  borealis 
reflects  a  thousand  shades  and  colors,  and  phan- 
tom shores  and  imaginary  seas  are  everywhere 
perceived  through  the  magic  medium  of  the  mirage. 
Wheat  was  formerly  cultivated  in  quantity  suffi- 
cient for  the  wants  of  a  much  larger  population, 
and  the  government  takes  great  pains  to  revive  it. 
But  when  the  polar  ice  arrives,  the  hope  of  a  crop 
of  wheat  must  be  abandoned  for  two  or  three  years 
at  least. 

Within  the  space  of  one  century  the  annals  of 
the  island  record  fortythree  bad  seasons,  among 
which '  were  fourteen  years  of  actual  famine.  In 
1784  and  1785,  when  an  intense  severity  of  winter 
succeeded  to  volcanic  eruptions,  one  fifth  of  the 


POLAR   REGIONS.  53 

entire  population  perished,  together  with  190,000 
sheep,  28,000  horses,  and  upwards  of  11,000  horn- 
ed cattle. 

Among  the  vegetables  of  Iceland  is  the  Elymus 
arenarius — in  Icelandic,  melur,  a  species  of  wild 
wheat,  which  may  be  made  into  good  flour.  Be- 
side the  lichens,  there  are  many  antiscorbutic  roots. 
There  are  even  several  marine  plants  used  as  food, 
among  which  are  the  Mga  saccharifera,  and  the 
Feciis  foliaceoiis.  Like  Norway,  Iceland  produces 
great  quantities  of  wild  berries  of  excellent  flavor. 

Of  late  years  gardening  is  practised  throughout 
the  country.  Cauliflowers  do  not  succeed,  nor 
has  the  cultivation  of  the  potato  made  sufficient 
progress  for  the  advantage  of  the  island. 

Though  Iceland  now  affords  no  better  trees  than 
birch  and  brushwood,  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea- 
coast  do  not  feel  the  want  of  fuel.  The  immense 
quantity  of  pines,  firs,  and  other  trees,  which  are 
thrown  upon  the  northern  coast  is  truly  astonishing, 
and  may  be  considered  a  natural  phenomenon. 

Thus  what  the  soil  dsnies  is  brought  by  the  oceah. 
The  wood  drifts  upon  Cape  North  and  Cape  Lan- 
ganess,  in  such  abundance  that  the  neighbouring  in- 
habitants neglect  the  greater  part  of  it.  The  pieces 
which  are  carried  along  these  two  points,  by  the 
waves,  towards  the  other  coasts,  supply  a  sufficient 
quantity  for  all  the  purposes  of  boat-building. 

The  sea  and  rivers  offer  advantages  to  the  Ice- 
landers which  they  neglect.     The  salmon,  trout, 
barbel,  and  many  other  fishes  which  abound  there- 
in, are  generally  permitted  to  live  and  die  undis- 
5* 


54  POLAR    REGIONS. 

turbed.  Eels  are  found  in  great  plenty,  but  the 
Icelanders  do  not  eat  them,  fancying  that  they  are 
the  offspring  of  the  great  sea  snake,  which,  accord- 
ing to  the  northern  mythology,  encompasses  the  globe 
like  a  girdle.  Herrings  swarm  round  the  shore,  but 
it  is  only  of  late  that  nets  have  been  used  by  the 
Icelanders.  They  pay  more  attention  to  the  whale, 
the  sea-calf,  the  sea-dog,  and  the  cod-fish. 

North  of  Iceland,,  are  coasts  still  imperfectly 
known,  which  belong  either  to  Greenland  or  to  a 
Polar  Archipelago.  They  have  been  visited  only 
by  whalers.  *  Concussions  felt  at  sea  seem  to  indi- 
cate the  existence  of  volcanoes  in  this  quarter. 
The  island  of  John  de  Mayen,  which  has  often  been 
visited,  is  a  mass  of  black  rocks,  but  without  any 
volcanic  traces. 

The  group  of  three  large  islands,  and  a  great 
number  of  lesser  ones,  which  have  received  the 
name  of  Spitzbergen,  appear  to  be  the  termina- 
tion of  this  icy  chain,  and  seem,  in  the  present 
state  of  our  geographical  knowledge,  to  belong  to 
Gi-eenland,  and  consequently  to  North  America. 
The  great  island  of  Spitzbergen,  properly  so  called, 
is  separated  by  narrow  channels  from  the  southeast 
and  northeast  islands.  The  eastern  part  of  the 
peninsula  of  Spitzbergen  proper  has  received  the 
name  of  New  Friesland.  Toward  the  northwest 
point,  are  the  ruins  of  a  Dutch  whaling  estabhsh- 
ment,  called  Smeeringberg.  The  mountains  of 
Spitzbergen  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow  and 
ice,  and  reflect  a  light  equal  to  that  of  the  full 
moon.      They  are  composed  of  red  granite,  the 


POLAR  REGIONS.  55 

blocks  of  which  shine  in  the  midst  of  masses  of  ice. 
From  their  great  elevation  they  are  seen  at  a  great 
distance.  Solemn  silence  reigns  in  this  desolate 
land,  which  has  probably  been  uninhabited  since  the 
birth  of  Time.  Even  here  the  torpor  of  Nature  is  but 
temporary  and  periodical.  One  uninterrupted  day,  of 
five  months  duration,  occupies  the  place  of  summer. 
Toward  the  noon  of  this  protracted  day,  the  long 
accumulated  heat  penetrates  a  little  way  into  the 
frozen  earth.  Though  the  pitch  on  the  sides  of 
vessels  is  melted,  only  a  few  plants  expand ;  such 
as  cochleariae,  ranunculuses,  sedums,  and  poppies. 
The  bays  are  full  of  gigantic  fuci  and  algae,  one  spe- 
cies of  which  is  more  than  two  hundred  feet  long. 
Whales  and  phocae  disport  in  these  marine  forests, 
and  there  seek  for  their  accustomed  nourishment 
of  mollusca  and  httle  fishes.  Here  are  seen  the 
walrus,  and  the  narwhale ;  and  here  the  sword-fish 
battles  with  the  whale.  Here  also  the  colossal  polar 
bear  abides,  amidst  flocks  of  foxes  and  herds  of 
rein-deer.  All  these  animals  present  temptations  to 
European  enterprize.  Within  fortysix  years  the 
Dutch  caught  32,900  whales  on  the  coast  of  Spitz- 
bergen,  which  were  worth  fourteen  millions  sterling.* 
At  present,  however,  the  animals  are  fewer,  and  the 
value  of  the  fishery  is  much  diminished.  All  these 
enormous  creatures  are  less  useful  than  the  herring, 
of  which  the  polar  circle  appears  to  be  the  birth- 
place. Here  it  is  secure  from  the  assaults  of  its 
enemies. 

The  vast  abundance  of  floating  wood  that  drifts 

*  Anderson's  History  of  Commerce. 


66  POLAR    REGIONS. 

upon  all  these  northern  shores,  has  given  cause  for 
much  speculation.  It  appears  to  be  the  produce 
of  the  northern  coasts  of  both  continents,  and  of 
the  regions  bordering  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
latter  is  brought  hither  by  the  Gulf  Stream.  Yet  if 
a  part  of  this  floating  timber  comes  from  forests 
now  in  existence,  another  part  is  supposed  to  have 
its  origin  in  some  of  the  great  revolutions  of  the 
globe.  In  Siberia  great  masses  of  wood  are  found 
deposited  at  a  height  to  which  the  present  ocean 
could  never  have  reached.  Gmelin  imagined  that  he 
saw  in  this  a  proof  of  the  diminution  of  the  sea ;  and 
many  other  hypotheses  have  been  stated  by  differ- 
ent philosophers.  We  pretend  not  to  give  an  opin- 
ion on  the  subject,  farther  than  that  many  of  the  ap- 
pearances of  the  northern  regions  could  not  have 
been  produced  by  the  present  state  of  things. 


GREENLAND 


CHAPTER   I. 


General  'Geographic  Features  of  the  Coast  of  Greenland. — Of  the  Western 
Coast. — Of  the  Eastern  Coast. — Fredericshaab. — The  Ice  Blink. — Gothaab 
Disko  Bay.— Lievely. 

The  most  southern  point  of  Greenland  is  Cape 
Farewell,  situated  in  latitude  59''  north.  From  this 
point  of  departure  many  navigators  have  coasted  its 
northeastern  shore  as  far  as  within  ten  degrees  of 
the  pole,  and  its  northw^estern  border  to  the  seventy- 
eighth  degree.  No  vessel  has  ever  gained  its  north- 
ern extremity,  nor  is  it  certain  that  any  communica- 
tion exists  betw^een  Baffin's  Bay  and  the  sea  on  the 
northern  shore  of  the  new  continent.  There  are 
therefore  no  means  to  ascertain  whether  Greenland 
is  joined  with  America,  or  is  an  island,  or  a  part 
of  a  polar  continent.  In  the  northw^estern  part  of 
Baffin's  Bay  the  late  navigators  have  discovered  that 
strong  currents  run  eastward  from  the  different  in- 
lets, and  this  with  other  circumstances  seems  a 
reason  to  believe  that  the  land  is  not  continuous 
from  Greenland  to  America. 

The  shore  of  Greenland  on  the  western  side,  as  far 
as  Disko,  is  high,  rugged,  and  barren,  rising  from  the 


58  POLAR  REGIONS. 

water's  edge  into  tremendous  precipices  and  lofty 
mountains,  which  may  be  seen  from  the  sea  more 
than  an  hundred  miles.  All  the  hills  are  crowned 
with  everlasting  ice  and  snow,  which  increase  in 
quantity  from  year  to  year,  and  are  continually  fill- 
ing the  vaUies.  Those  rocks  on  which  the  snow  can- 
not lie  are  grey,  streaked  with  colored  veins,  with  here 
and  there  a  little  earth  which  affords  nourishment 
to  a  hardy  species  of  heath.  In  some  of  the  vallies 
there  are  small  brooks  and  ponds,  fringed  with  a 
growth  of  stinted  brushwood.  North  of  Disko  little 
is  known  of  the  coast,  excepting  that  it  is  mountain- 
ous, and  bordered  with  numerous  clusters  of  small 
islands. 

The  eastern  coast  of  Greenland  beyond  Herjolf 's 
Ness  is  absolutely  unexplored.  A  perpetual  bar- 
rier of  ice  precludes  the  attempt.  It  is  from  hence 
that  those  fields  of  ice  which  so  often  shut  up  the 
ports  and  bays  of  Iceland  break  away,  ^he  general 
features  of  this  shore  are  like  those  of  the  western 
side.  Herjolf 's  Ness  is  a  bold  rocky  promontory, 
and  the  precise  position  of  any  point  beyond  it  is 
doubtful.  It  is  no  great  risk  to  assume  as  a  fact,  that 
Greenland,  on  the  eastern  side  from  Herjolf's  Ness 
to  the  pole,  is  decidedly  unexplored,  and  the  re- 
ports of  experienced  seamen  are  positive  in  express- 
ing the  impossibility  of  coming  within  many  de- 
grees of  the  supposed  line  of  coast,  from  the  con- 
tinual presence  of  ice ;  and  that  the  ice  which  is 
carried  to  the  southward  from  the  Greenland  fish- 
ing grounds  is  always  limited  to  a  certain  meridian, 
westward  of  which  it  has  never  been  known  to 


POLAR   REGIONS.  59 

break  up.     Eastward  of  this  parallel  they  have  at 
times  penetrated  beyond  the  eightyfourth  degree. 

South  and  westward  of  Herjolfs  Ness,  is  Skaga- 
fiord,  a  sound  the  termination  of  which  was  never 
ascertained ;  but  from  its  apparent  direction,  it  is 
thought  to  have  a  communication  with  Makkely  On- 
it,  in  South  East  Bay  at  Disko. 

Between  HerjolPs  Ness  and  Staten  Hook  there 
were  many  more  inlets  inhabited  in  former  times. 
Whether  these  inlets  may  not  have  a  leading  into 
the  preceding  communication,  must  not  be  looked 
upon  as  at  variance  with  probability. 

No  one  now  will  doubt  that  Frobisher's  Straits 
penetrate  the  whole  of  southern  Greenland,  or 
rather  open  into  some  vast  internal  sea,  whence 
the  ice  is  annually  carried  westward,  so  as  to  ob- 
struct the  entrance  to  these  parts  from  the  side  of 
Hudson's  Bay. 

Staten  Hook  and  Cape  Farewell  have  been  both 
determined  to  be  islands,  between  which  there  Hes 
an  immense  bay,  crowded  with  islands.  The  bot- 
tom of  this,  never  having  been  yet  explored,  may 
be  supposed  to  have  many  inlets,  branching  into 
Frobisher's  Straits. 

Let  us  turn  our  attention  to  Baal's  River,  which 
is  rather  a  gulf,  penetrating  Greenland  to  the  north- 
east. The  extremity  of  this  water  has  not  been  as 
yet  laid  down.  It  is  supposed  to  extend  to  Disko, 
by  some  inlet  leading  into  Southeast  Bay.  In  its 
length  it  is  impossible  to  deny  but  it  may  have  com- 
munication with  Skagafiord  and  the  inland  waters 
in  Frobisher's  Straits. 


60  POLAR  REGIONS. 

Whether  South  Bay  is  connected  with  BaaFvS 
River  is  not  easy  to  assert,  as  there  is  no  datum  for 
such  assertion. 

Makkely  Onit  in  Southeast  Bay  has  been  always 
considered  as  running  into  a  water,  which,  if  free 
from  ice,  would  permit  a  passage  into  the  northern 
Atlantic. 

North  of  Makkely  Onit  are  numerous  passages 
opening  into  internal  seas  in  the  northern  parts  of 
Greenland,  some  of  which  have  been  penetrated 
by  the  boats  of  whale  fishers,  the  men  of  which, 
on  their  return,  invariably  reported  that  they  had 
observed  fair,  open  seas  before  them,  after  they 
had  gone  a  very  little  way. 

In  Jacob's  Bay  there  is  one  very  remarkable  pas- 
sage of  similar  description ;  and  also  one,  if  not  more, 
in  Northeast  Bay;  and  proceeding  farther  north, 
the  numerous  sounds  up  to  the  Woman's  Islands, 
and  forward  to  the  Devil's  Thumb,  an  isolated 
natural  column,  in  74°  53'  north  latitude,  various 
openings  present  themselves,  which,  no  doubt, 
lead  to  so  many  ways  of  traversing  this  Arctic 
Archipelago. 

A  few  circumstances  more  will  materially  assist 
in  this  inquiry.  The  whale  fishers  are  unani- 
mously of  opinion  that  Greenland  consists  entirely  of 
islands  ;  '  for,'  say  they,  *  whenever  chance  or  incli- 
nation led  us,  on  almost  any  part  of  the  coast,  we 
saw  nothing  to  prevent  us  from  sailing  as  far  inward 
as  we  liked.'  The  habits  of  the  whale,  who  is 
always  observed  running  for  some  of  these  pas- 
sages,   and    some,   when    stricken,    dragging  the 


POLAR   REGIONS.  61 

boats  SO  far  that  the  people  witnessed  open  clear 
water  to  a  boundless  extent,  are  in  a  great  degree 
confirmatory  evidence  of  the  fact.  But  one  cir- 
cumstance, not  the  least  curious  in  natural  history, 
is,  that  a  whale,  struck  by  a  man  at  Greenland,  i.  e. 
at  Spitzbergen,  escaped,  and  was  in  a  short  time 
after  killed,  and  taken  by  a  relative  of  the  same 
man,  who  was  then  at  Davis'  Straits.  This  curi- 
ous fact  was  determined  by  the  harpoon,  bearing 
the  mark  of  the  former,  being  found  in  the  body  of 
the  animal  when  taken. 

The  Northeast  coast  of  Greenland,  therefore, 
being  unexplored,  and  the  probable  intersection  of 
its  southeastern,  southern,  western,  and  north- 
western parts  by  navigable  waters  being  adduced, 
besides  the  other  circumstances  in  aid,  it  may,  we 
presume,  be  inferred,  that  the  state  of  Greenland 
is  not  continental,  but  insular.  But  whether  the 
research  will  be  ever  established  by  further  proofs 
of  more  decisive  character,  or  whether  any  cir- 
cumstances will  warrant  the  hazard,  must  be  left 
for  time  to  determine. 

Nature,  in  denying  this  dreary  continent  or  ar- 
chipelago trees  for  fuel  or  the  purposes  of  domestic 
architecture,  made  ample  provision,  in  the  drift 
wood  which  floats  to  every  part  of  its  shores.  Of 
salt  water  there  is  an  abundance ;  but  the  country 
seems  to  be  ill  supplied  with  fresh.  The  few 
brooks  that  are  known  to  exist  are  formed  by  the 
melting  of  the  snows. 

The  Danish  estabhshments  in  Greenland  consist 
of  several  factories,  scattered  along  the  coast,  and 
6 


62  POLAR    REGIONS. 

divided  into  two  departments,  over  each  of  w^hich  an 
inspector  presides.  Coasting  to  the  Northvrest  from 
Cape  Farewell,  the  first  is  Julianshaab,  and  then 
Fredericshaab,  upon  a  projecting  point  of  land.  It 
was  founded  in  1742.  There  is  a  good  harbor 
about  a  mile  from  the  sea,  and  an  island  where  the 
aborigines  resort  to  hunt  seals  and  rein-deer. — 
Fredericshaab  is  an  eligible  place  for  trade. 

Nine  leagues  from  this  colony  is  the  well  known 
Ice  Blink.  It  is  a  vast  elevated  sheet  of  ice,  reflect- 
ing a  brightness  over  the  sky  resembling  the  North- 
ern Lights.  The  mouth  of  the  adjoining  bay  is 
blocked  by  ice  driven  out  by  the  efflux  of  the  tide, 
and  so  wonderfully  heaped  by  the  waves  that  die 
spaces  between  the  islands  are  completely  vaulted 
over,  and  present  the  subhme  spectacle  of  an  enor- 
mous bridge  of  ice,  eighteen  miles  long,  and  nearly 
five  broad.  Boats  may  enter  the  harbor  under  the 
arches,  which  are  from  sixty  to  an  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  high.  The  mouth  of  the  bay  is  closed, 
but  there  is  a  sheet  of  open  water  within. 

Proceeding  onward,  we  come  to  Gothaab,  in  lati- 
tude 64°  14'.  It  stands  in  Baal's  River,  the  inlet  be- 
fore mentioned.  There  is  a  church  at  this  colony 
which  was  founded  in  1721  by  the  famous  mission- 
ary Egede.  Some  thousands  of  the  natives  former- 
ly dwelt  in  this  vicinity ;  but  in  1733  the  ravages  of 
the  small  pox  thinned  their  numbers,  and  their  pop- 
ulation has  been  on  the  decline  ever  since. 

Passing  the  colonies  of  Sukkertoppen  and  Hol- 
steinburg,  we  come  to  Disko  Island.  It  is  table  land, 
the  interior  parts  more  elevated  than  the  sides. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  63 

From  the  great  distance  at  which  it  first  becomes 
visible  above  the  horizon,  this  island  must  be  more 
than  a  mile  in  perpendicular  height.  The  face  of 
the  rock  is  v^orn  into  channels,  for  the  discharge  of 
the  dissolved  snow,  which,  as  they  grow  narrower  in 
their  descent,  give  the  spaces  between,  the  appear- 
ance of  stupendous  pyramids,  a  resemblance  which 
is  heightened  by  the  stratification  exhibiting  horizon- 
tal and  parallel  fissures,  similar  to  regular  building. 
The  rock  is  basaltic,  but  not  of  that  regular  form 
which  occurs  in  the  Giant's  Causeway.  Its  height 
is  60  feet.  There  are  parts  however  where  the 
stratification  is  much  more  regular. 

These  remarks  chiefly  regard  the  south  side,  about 
Fortune  Bay,  w^hich  seems  to  be  that  part  of  this 
island  which  has  been  least  afflicted  by  that  awful 
convulsion  w^hich  at  some  remote  period  denudated 
and  destroyed  this  portion  of  the  globe.  Probably 
the  ruin  that  came  upon  these  countries,  moved,  in. 
its  terrible  progress,  from  the  northwestward ;  and^ 
having  forced  a  passage  through  the  Waygat  Strait, 
swept  round  through  the  southeast  bay,  and  so  spared 
Disko.  In  support  of  such  conjecture,  it  may  be 
advanced,  that  Hare  Island,  lying  nearly  north  of 
Disko,  at  the  entrance  to  Waygat  Sound,  is  low  and 
flat,  as  it  were  the  base  of  a  mountain  whose  sum- 
mit had  been  torn  away.  The  contiguous  point  of 
Disko  shelves  into  the  sea,  as  if  having  suff*ered  from 
the  same  cause  ;  whilst  that  side  of  Disko  that  over- 
looks the  Waygat  consists  of  lofty  peaks,  behind 
which  there  lie  deep  valleys,  where  the  torrent  ri- 
oted, having  failed  to  carry  away  the  more  elevated 


64  POLAR    REGIONS. 

parts.  Moreover,  that  part  of  Disko  called  Flat 
Foot  Shore,  which  hes  over  against  Makkely  Onit, 
has  evidently  suffered  during  the  same  devastation. 
Neither  w^ould  those  portions  of  the  island  called 
New  and  Old  Lievely  have  survived  the  wreck,  were 
it  not  for  the  strong  resistance  made  by  that  part 
which  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Black  Land.  The 
rock  of  Lievely,  now  so  dangerous  to  navigators, 
which  is  bare  at  low  water  spring  tides,  and  which  is 
nothing  but  the  remains  of  some  part  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  a  further  proof  of  the  justice  of  the  above 
position.  The  existence  of  Disko  Bay,  Fortune  Bay, 
Love  Bay,  and  the  other  recesses  in  the  bosom  of  this 
remarkable  rock,  owe  their  existence  to  the  violence 
of  the  flood,  which,  boiling  at  the  resistance  oppo- 
sed to  it  on  the  north  side,  rushed  over  the  higher 
lands  to  the  southward,  and  there  pouring  onward, 
in  its  rage  hollowed  out  these  several  bays,  and 
meeting  with  the  other  contending  currents  coming 
through  the  Waygat,  and  down  the  Straits,  completed 
the  work  of  destruction,  and  effected  the  formation 
of  Southeast  Bay. 

Disko  Bay  is  an  hundred  and  twenty  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  has  the  most  productive  fishery  of  any 
in  Greenland.  There  are  several  settlements  on 
and  about  the  island,  the  principal  of  which  is  Lively. 

The  harbor  of  Lively  is  excellent  for  small  vessels, 
having  a  good  depth  of  water,  and  being  quite  land- 
locked;  but  it  appears  rather  narrow  for  ships  of 
three  or  four  hundred  tons.  The  settlement  is  prin- 
cipally situated  on  the  south  shore  of  the  harbor, 
where   there  are    several   tolerably   built   wooden 


POLAR   REGIONS.  65 

houses,  among  which  that  of  the  inspector  is  a  good 
looking  and  convenient  one.  There  are  but  six  or 
seven  Danes,  besides  the  officers,  belonging  to  the 
establishment,  most  of  the  Esquimaux  going,  in  the 
summer,  into  the  interior,  to  kill  rein-deer,  from  which 
occupation  they  do  not  usually  return  till  September 
or  October,  when  their  services  begin  to  be  needful 
in  the  whale  fishery,  which  is  carried  on  here  only 
in  the  winter  months.  A  small  schooner,  which  is 
kept  in  the  harbor,  is  sent  every  summer  to  bring  the 
oil  from  the  northern  settlements,  in  readiness  for  the 
arrival  of  the  vessels  which  come  annually  for  the 
purpose  of  taking  that  article  to  Copenhagen  ;  and 
at  the  same  time  carries  out  supplies  of  provisions 
and  other  stores. 

Beside  all  these,  there  are  other  colonies,  to  the 
number,  perhaps,  of  twenty,  which  to  describe  would 
be  but  repetition. 


CHAPTER  n. 

Of  the  Polar  Ice. — Changes  in  its  Position. — Its  present  Position. — Technical 
Names  of  the  different  Kinds  of  Ice. — Dangers  from  Iceb«tgs. — Manner  of 
taking  the  Whale. 

In  no  part  of  this  work  can  the  polar  ice,  the  great 
sole  obstacle  to  the  navigation  of  the  arctic  regions, 
be  discussed  with  more  propriety  than  here.  It 
fills,  it  appears,  together  with  the  land,  a  circle  of 
above  two  thousand  geographic  miles  in  diameter, 
and  bars  all  access  to  the  tract  immediately  sur- 
6* 


66  POLAR  REGIONS. 

rounding  the  pole.  Though  subject  to  partial  vari- 
ations, its  outline  is  generally,  at  any  season,  similar 
to  what  it  was  the  year  before,  and  often  strikingly 
uniform. 

A  great  change  in  its  position,  as  far  as  it  regards 
Greenland,  took  place  in  the  beginning  of  the  fif- 
teenth century,  whereby  the  intercourse  betw^een 
Iceland  and  the  colonies  then  estabhshed  in  Green- 
land w^as  interrupted,  and  the  colonies  probably 
perished ;  for  nothing  has  been  seen  or  heard  of 
them  since.  Until  that  time,  the  coast  had  always 
been  accessible,  but  the  polar  ice,  as  it  is  supposed, 
suddenly  extended  its  hmits  to  Cape  Farewell,  and 
rendered  the  shore  inaccessible.  Another  and  a 
lesser  change  took  place  in  1816.  A  portion  of 
about  two  thousand  square  leagues  of  ice  drifted 
out  of  the  Greenland  sea,  from  between  the  paral- 
lels of  74^  and  80^ 

With  each  recurring  spring  the  ice  presents  near- 
ly the  following  outline  :  it  covers  the  eastern  coast 
of  Greenland,  extends  by  Labrador  to  Newfound- 
land, fills  the  bays  of  Hudson  and  Bafiin,  and  ex- 
hibits a  broken  but  continuous  edge  from  Labrador 
to  Nova  Zembla.  During  the  winter,  it  usually 
adheres  to  the  northwest  coast  of  America,  fills 
Bhering's  Straits,  and,  it  is  supposed,  adheres  to  the 
shore  from  Icy  Cape  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
American  Polar  Sea.  It  would  seem  that  a  perpet- 
ual barrier  of  ice,  sometimes  fixed  and  sometimes 
loose,  crosses  the  middle,  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

Perhaps  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  give  here  the 
denominations  by  which  the  different  kinds  of  ice 


POLAR  REGIONS.  67 

are  known  to  arctic  navigators.  Those  stupendous 
masses,  which  from  their  height,  bulk,  and  irregular 
and  picturesque  outlines,  strike  the  beholder  with 
admiration  as  well  as  terror,  are  called  icebergs. 
Those  prodigious  sheets  whose  want  of  altitude  is 
made  up  by  their  extent,  are  called  field  ice,  A 
field  whose  extent  can  be  seen  from  the  mast  head, 
is  denominated  a  floe^  but  this  term  is  seldom  ap- 
plied to  pieces  less  than  a  mile  in  diameter.  Drift 
ice  consists  of  pieces  less  than  floes,  of  all  shapes 
and  magnitudes.  Bay  ice  is  that  which  is  newly 
formed  on  the  sea  ;  and  sludge  is  small  particles  of 
ice,  or  snow,  from  which  floes  and  fields  are  formed. 

A  hummock  is  a  protuberance  on  a  floe,  or  field, 
commonly  formed  by  the  pressure  of  one  piece  up- 
on another  ;  and  a  calf  is  a  depression  from  the  same 
cause.  Calves  are  sometimes  so  deep  and  broad 
that  a  ship  may  sail  over  them  without  touching. 
A  tongue  is  a  point  projecting,  under  water,  from 
some  mass  of  ice,  horizontally.  When  there  is  so 
much  drift  ice  that  its  extent  is  not  discernible,  it 
is  termed  di  pack,  and  is  said  to  lie  open  when  the 
pieces  do  not  touch ;  and  if  the  reverse,  it  is  called 
close.  Young  ice  is  that  which  is  forming,  or  has 
been  newly  formed.  Though  formed  of  salt  water, 
the  sea  ice  is  not  commonly  in  itself  salt. 

It  is  yet  a  question  whether  ice  can  form  in  any 
part  of  the  ocean,  excepting  under  the  lee  of  the 
land.  The  swell  and  motion  of  the  waves  is  certain- 
ly unfavorable  to  its  generation  ;  nevertheless,  it  is 
certain  that  bay  ice  does  form  at  sea  to  an  extent 
sufficient  to  arrest  the  progress  of  ships.     Perhaps 


68  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  most  rational  conclusion  is,  that  a  part  is  form- 
ed in  the  bays  within  the  arctic  circle,  and  a  part  in 
the  open  ocean. 

When  two  fields  of  ice  meet  in  rapid  motion,  the 
concussion  is  terrible.  The  weaker  field  is  crush- 
ed with  an  awful  noise ;  sometimes  the  destruction 
is  mutual;  pieces  of  huge  dimensions  are  piled  up 
to  the  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  while  a  pro- 
portionate quantity  is  forced  under.  The  strongest 
ship  is  but  an  insignificant  impediment  between  two 
moving  fields.  Numbers  of  whaling  vessels  have 
been  thus  destroyed ;  some  have  been  thrown  upon 
the  ice,  others  have  been  torn  open  or  broken  to 
pieces,  and  some  h^ve  been  completely  overthrown 
and  buried  beneath  the  fragments.  As  many  as 
twentythree  Dutch  ships  have  been  thus  lost  in 
one  year. 

Icebergs  have  been  seen  of  almost  incredible 
dimensions.  Captain  Ross  saw  one  twelve  hundred 
feet  long,  and  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high 
above  the  water.  Another  was  estimated  to  weigh 
1,292,397,673  tons.  Icebergs  commonly  float  on  a 
base  much  more  extended  than  their  upper  surface. 
Hence  the  proportion  appearing  above  water  is 
seldom  less  in  elevation  than  one  seventh  of  the 
whole  thickness ;  and  when  the  elevation  is  conical, 
it  is  often  equal  to  one  fourth  of  the  whole  depth  of 
the  berg. 

Icebergs  are  seldom  dangerous,  as  they  can  be 
easily  distinguished  in  the  night,  though  fatal  acci- 
dents have  occurred  from  running  upon  them.  They 
are  sometimes  valuable  friends  to  the  whale  fishers. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  69 

They  do  not  move  so  fast  to  leeward  in  gales  as  the 
drift  ice,  and  vessels  are  frequently  moored  to  them, 
while  the  loose  floes  and  fields  are  passing,  and  thus 
lose  less  ground.  In  strong  adverse  winds,  they 
hinder  ships  from  making  lee-way. 

All  ice  becomes  fragile  toward  the  close  of  the 
whale  fishery,  and  grows  loose  in  its  texture.  Bergs 
in  this  state  being  struck  with  an  axe  for  the  purpose 
of  fixmg  an  anchor,  have  been  known  to  spht  asun- 
der, and  precipitate  the  seamen  into  the  chasm ; 
w^hile  occasionally  the  masses  have  fallen  in  contrary 
directions,  burying  men  and  boats  in  one  common 
ruin.  But  to  rehearse  all  the  possible,  probable,  or 
certain  dangers  of  arctic  navigation,  would  require 
a  much  larger  volume  than  this. 

The  formidable  barrier  already  described,  when 
it  occurs,  is  regularly  encountered  by  the  whale 
ships,  in  the  month  of  April,  but  is  usually  removed 
by  natural  means  as  the  season  advances.  In  May 
the  ice  becomes  porous  and  decays,  the  drift  ice  is 
liberated,  and  before  the  end  of  the  month  the  winds 
and  waves  break  up  the  w^hole  mass.  Ships  do  not, 
however,  w^ait  for  this  event,  but  penetrate  the  ice 
under  sail,  and  by  cutting  and  sawing  a  passage. 

Whales  are  seen  in  the  open  sea,  or  in  the  holes 
between  the  masses  of  ice.  White  w^hales  are  sel- 
dom seen  but  in  open  water.  Of  the  whole  tribe 
of  this  species,  the  balaena  mysticetus,  or  common 
black  whale,  is  the  most  inveterately  pursued  by 
man.  An  account  of  the  manner  of  taking  whales, 
naturally  follows  here. 

Every  ship  engaged  in  this  branch  of  commerce, 


70  POLAR    REGIONS. 

from  British  ports,  is  furnished  with  six  boats,  besides 
the  ship's,  or  jolly,  boat.  One  of  them  is  called  the 
gig-boat,  or  No.  1 :  the  remaining  five  are  distin- 
guished only  by  their  number.  The  gig  is  provided 
with  six  oars,  besides  the  steersman's  ;  the  rest  have 
only  five  oars  each,  with  the  same  exception  :  in  all, 
the  harpooner  uses  the  bow  or  foremost  oar.  Each 
boat  is  provided  with  three  lines,  of  120  fathoms  each, 
made  of  the  very  soundest  hemp,  as  on  the  faith- 
fulness of  the  line  the  success  of  capture  depends. 
These  lines  are  coiled  with  great  care  and  nicety, 
in  a  square  frame  in  the  middle  of  the  boat,  and  the 
harpooner  has  his  weapon  ready  in  a  dry  place,  to 
set  it  on  a  seat  prepared  for  that  purpose  on  the 
right  bow  of  the  boat.  The  boat-steerer,  who  must 
be  trained  to  his  station,  as,  in  emergency,  his  cour- 
age and  caution  may  not  only  secure  success,  but 
save  the  lives  of  the  men,  is  provided  with  a  long 
oar,  with  which  he  dexterously  directs  the  motion 
of  the  boat.  Each  boat  is  provided  with  a  tin  trum- 
pet, to  announce  the  station  or  movement  in  case  of 
being  enveloped  in  a  fog,  and  also  with  a  piece  of 
bunting  attached  to  a  short  pole  by  way  of  signal 
flag. 

Thus  equipped,  the  boats  are  suspended  by  a  sim- 
ple machinery  of  blocks  and  ropes  by  the  ship's  sides 
ready  to  be  lowered  in  an  instant.  To  the  main- 
mast, is  attached,  at  a  great  elevation,  usually  about 
100  feet  above  the  deck,  a  structure  resembling  a  wa- 
ter-cask, called  a  crow's  nest,  or  hurricane-house,  in 
which  the  master  or  confidential  officer  is  stationed 
with  a  telescope  on  the  look-out ;  and  to  such  as  have 


POLAR    REGIONS.  71 

not  witnessed  the  fatigues  of  that  station,  a  recital 
of  its  dangerous  hardships  would  appear  incredible. 
In  the  sudden  transitions  from  intense  cold  to  the 
most  annoying  heat,  whilst  the  head  is  involved  in 
the  blaze  of  an  eternally  unclouded  sun,  that  blisters 
the  face  and  blinds  the  strongest  vision,  that  situation 
must  be  inflexibly  maintained,  and  such  perseve- 
rance often  costs  the  individual  the  loss  of  health 
and  Ufe. 

If  the  ship's  station  be  on  w^hat  is  considered  good 
fishing  ground,  which  is  commonly  known  from  the 
water  being  of  a  deep  olive  colour,  a  boat  or  two 
being  kept  continually  on  the  watch,  the  moment  a 
whale  is  descried,  the  pursuit  is  commenced  without 
loss  of  a  second  of  time  ;  and  as  the  ordinary  speed 
of  the  whale-boats  is  six  miles  an  hour,  a  very  short 
space  of  time  is  sufficient  to  bring  them  to  the  spot. 
The  whale,  on  first  rising,  seeing  no  enemy  near, 
and  not  apprehending  danger,  is  apt  to  repose  a 
considerable  time  at  the  surface,  apparently  '  stretch- 
ed out  o'er  many  a  rood,'  and  the  boats  are  mean- 
time advancing  to  the  place.  *  Give  w^ay,'  is  then 
the  word  with  which  the  row^ers  urge  their  speed, 
and  the  harpooner,  with  desperate  and  determined 
energy,  buries  his  weapon  in  the  animal's  body. 
This  is  usually  follow^ed  by  a  moment's  awful  pause ; 
the  whale,  upon  feeling  the  smart  of  the  barb,  trem- 
bles for  an  instant  in  his  posture,  darts  precipitate- 
ly forward,  or  sinks  by  an  unaccountable  effort  with 
the  suddenness  of  so  much  lead.  If  the  harpoon 
remain  fast,  the  line  continuing  to  run  with  immeas- 
urable velocity,  the  flag  of  the  boat  is  displayed  in 


72  POLAR    REGIONS. 

token  of  success,  when  all  in  the  boats  within  sight 
of  the  transaction,  and  those  on  board  the  ship,  join 
in  a  wild  irregular  cry  of  *  A  fall,  a  fall,'  and  a  flag 
is  immediately  run  up  to  the  mizen-mast  head,  to 
proclaim  the  vessel's  good  fortune. 

In  the  mean  while  the  other  boats  are  despatched 
to  aid  in  the  capture  ;  and  no  sooner  does  the  animal 
rise  again,  than  the  next  harpooner  secures  him  by 
a  second  wound,  and  so  as  many  follow  as  can, 
until  by  multiplied  efforts  to  escape,  compelled  to 
rise  for  breath,  and  then  almost  instantly  visited  with 
the  instruments  of  death,  exhaustion  follows,  and 
he  becomes  a  bestunned  object  for  the  hunter's  de- 
liberate aim,  when,  from  the  numberless  plunges  of 
the  lance,  the  vital  current  becomes  spent,  and  the 
animal  dies.  Such  an  event  is  not  always  unattend- 
ed with  danger  to  the  fishers. 

Often  in  the  first  instance  of  being  stricken,  if 
recollection  of  similar  injury  aid  its  anger,  the  re- 
taliation of  the  animal  is  destructive,  for,  rushing 
backwards,  in  which  direction  the  assailants  usually 
advance,  a  single  touch  of  the  tail  is  sufficient  for 
their  destruction.  The  sudden  violence  with  which 
the  animal  descends,  frequently  produces  a  similar 
effect  if  the  line  happen  to  meet  obstruction  in  its 
course  ;  and  in  the  dying  scene,  pierced  with  many 
wounds,  the  animal  exhibits  a  terrific  object  by  the 
mightiness  of  his  efforts,  though  quite  unconscious 
of  the  grand  effects  produced  by  such  exertions. 
Spouting  a  column  of  apparent  flame,  which,  de- 
scending, covers  the  sea  with  a  crimsoned  surface 
of  acres  in  extent,  at  the  same  time  lashing  the 


POLAR  REGIONS.  73 

water  all  around  into  foam  by  the  strokes  of  the 
fins  and  tail,  now  and  then  endeavouring  to  re- 
plunge  in  hopes  of  escaping,  in  which  effort  half  of 
the  body,  towards  the  tail,  is  seen  above  water. 
The  danger  so  obvious  is  carefully  avoided  by  the 
boat's  crew,  at  that  crisis  cautioned  to  remain  at  a 
secure  distance,  when  the  lines  fastened  to  the  har- 
poons are  slowly  drawn  in,  till  the  animal  reappears 
and  breathes  his  last. 

The  whale,  after  death,  always  turns  on  his  back. 
The  fins  are  then  lashed  together,  perforations  are 
made  in  the  tail,  and  a  rope  is  passed  through,  and 
thence  round  the  rump  ;  when  all  the  boats,  pass- 
ing lines  from  one  to  the  other,  proceed  to  tow  the 
carcass  towards  the  ship,  which  is  usually  so  man- 
aged as  to  meet  them,  in  order  to  lessen  the  fatigue. 
When  brought  alongside,  the  body  is  properly  se- 
cured for  the  operation  of  flinching.  This  con- 
sists in  digging  off  the  blubber,  or  cellular  substance, 
from  the  muscular  parts,  in  large  slips,  sometimes 
of  half  a  ton  weight,  but  all  of  a  regular  form,  which 
are  lifted  on  deck  by  the  help  of  the  windlass,  and 
the  labor  of  many  hands,  who  toil  incessantly  until 
the  spoliation  is  completed.  The  whalebone,  as  it 
is  called,  is  carefully  dug  out,  as  well  as  the  massy 
tongue ;  the  former  for  its  pecuhar  importance,  and 
the  latter  as  being  almost  entirely  composed  of  blub- 
ber. The  bones  of  the  lower  jaw  are  also  removed, 
being  a  private  perquisite  of  the  Captain  ;  and  so 
would  be  the  frontal  or  crown  bone  too,  were  it  not 
for  the  extreme  difficulty  of  separating  it  from  the 
body.  Then  finally  the  remotest  joint  that  can  be 
7 


74  POLAR    REGIONS. 

marked  in  the  lumbar  vertebrae  or  rump,  is  severed, 
and  the  crang,  the  residue  of  the  animal,  as  it  is  call- 
ed, with  its  abdominal  contents,  is  suffered  to  sink, 
which  it  instantly  does,  to  the  bottom. 

When  the  flinched  pieces  are  hoisted  on  deck, 
they  are  cut  into  squares,  and  tossed  into  the  body 
of  the  vessel,  where  they  remain  for  a  convenient 
opportunity  of  reducing  them  to  hand-breadth  slips, 
whfch  is  done  by  chopping  them,  upon  portions  of 
the  tail,  with  heavy  knives;  and  this  procedure, 
which  is  called  '  making  off*,'  is  final  for  the  trans- 
mission of  blubber  to  the  English  ports  from  the 
fishing  grounds.  The  reduced  pieces  are  for  that 
purpose  placed  in  large  casks,  and  closely  bunged 
up,  to  prevent  the  action  of  the  air  from  producing 
the  process  of  putrefaction. 

During  the  foregoing  operations,  the  utmost  pre- 
cautions are  observed  that  no  portion  of  muscular 
flesh  be  mixed  with  the  cellular  parts,  as  the  violent 
explosion  of  the  cask  would  be  the  consequence, 
when  coming  into  southern  cHmates.  Similar  con- 
cern is  also  evinced  that  the  sawdust  should  not 
have  admission  into  the  casks  containing  the  blub- 
ber, from  an  experience  that  the  casks  in  such  case 
are  more  certainly  burst  by  the  evolution  of  gasses 
in  an  earlier  stage  of  putrefaction,  than  even  by  the 
presence  of  the  former.  To  prevent  the  first  from 
happening,  the  muscular  parts,  and  skin,  are  care- 
fully cut  away  in  the  '  making  off*,'  and  the  saw-dust 
is  employed  so  cautiously  and  in  such  small  quan- 
tities, that  no  abuse  of  that  dangerous  material  can 
be  apprehended.     The  chief  reason  why  saw-dust 


POLAR   REGIONS.  75 

is  used,  is  for  the  purpose  of  drying  up  the  oily 
effusions  that  incommode  the  men  in  the  use  of 
the  respective  implements  necessary  to  effect  the 
operations  of  flinching  and  making  off.  The  use 
of  fir-timber  dust  on  such  occasions  cleanses  the 
hands  and  instruments,  with  a  ready  and  efficient 
result;  and  the  ship  boys  are  stationed  so  as  to 
supply  the  demands  of  the  officers  in  this  respect. 
The  integuments  of  the  whale  are,  hke  the  ani- 
mal himself,  widely  different  from  those  of  every 
other  creature.  The  epidermis  is  like  thin  parch- 
ment, flexible  when  on  the  body,  easily  detach- 
ed, wrinkled  according  to  the  age  of  the  animal, 
and  corresponding  with  the  organization  of  the  mus- 
cles beneath ;  but,  when  dry,  it  is  horny  and  brittle, 
and  in  consistence  similar  to  the  finer  lamina  of  the 
whalebone.  The  true  skin  is  about  an  inch  thick 
in  its  full  character,  and  is  formed  of  a  material 
analogous  to  the  whalebone,  but  breaks,  when  dry, 
in  perpendicular  fissures  :  it  is  usually  a  deep  brown- 
ish black,  and,  when  soft,  strongly  resembles  gum 
elastic.  In  composition  it  seems  to  differ  very  lit- 
tle from  the  substance  that  constitutes  the  matricu- 
lar  bed  of  the  whalebone ;  the  white  color  of  the 
latter  forming  the  only  distinction,  except  that  its 
fracture  is  shelving.  The  cellular  tissue,  or  blub- 
ber, is,  in  its  average  thickness,  twelve  inches;  in 
the  very  young  whale,  being  gelatinous — in  the 
more  advanced  and  vigorous,  of  a  florid  red,  when 
it  is  considered  most  valuable ;  and  in  the  age*^s 
animal,  yellow  and  tough,  from  the  induration  ^''con- 
creased  and  condensed  fibre  :  for  which  r^  ^  pe^i'son 


76  POLAR    REGIONS. 

older  whales  are  not  so  much  an  object,  where 
choice  presents,  as  those  of  less  advanced  growth. 

The  older  ones  are  also  more  dangerous  and  dif- 
ficult to  take,  both  from  the  rigidity  of  their  frame, 
and  their  experience  of  injury.  It  is  not  unusual, 
when  they  happen  to  be  disturbed  in  the  pursuits 
that  draw  them  from  their  retreats,  that,  if  a  partner 
be  wounded,  the  affectionate  companion  comes  to 
give  relief,  not  knowing  the  cause  of  the  pain,  or  of 
the  sudden  flight.  In  the  search,  the  watchful 
fisher  strikes  the  new  prey,  when  the  tortured  an- 
imals, seeking  each  other  in  their  anguish,  and 
desperate  with  their  wounds,  often  run  foul  of  the 
boats,  and  involve  their  pursuers  in  the  ruin  that 
overwhelms  themselves.  In  some  instances,  as  here- 
tofore observed,  they,  by  running  among  packed 
ice,  or  rubbing  the  line  against  the  edge  of  a  flaw, 
(a  portion  of  field  ice,)  frequently  chafe  it  so  as  to 
make  it  snap,  and  so  escape  for  the  moment ;  but  they 
are  seldom  eventually  safe.  On  such  occasions, 
they  cease  not  to  run  for  an  unknown  length,  until 
fatigue  or  death  makes  them  insensible  of  pain.  To 
some  such  occurrence  is  to  be  attributed  the  cir- 
cumstance of  a  whale  being  captured  with  a  har- 
poon imbedded  in  its  body,  after  traversing  the  un- 
known seas  between  Spitsbergen  and  Davis'  Straits. 


IS 

tities, 

be  apprehv. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  77 


CHAPTER    III. 


Early  History  of  the  Whale  Fishery. — Of  the  Manner  in  which  a  Whale 
Ship  is  manned, — The  Crow's  Nest. — Whale  Boats. — Implements  used  in 
the  Whale  Fishery. — Whale  Killing. — Danger  of  Striking. 

It  is  on  record  that  whale  fishing  was  followed 
as  a  regular  occupation  as  early  as  in  the  reign  of 
Alfred  the  Great ;  but  wherever  it  might  have  been 
conducted  in  the  time  of  the  Saxon  monarch,  it  is 
certain  that  the  Icelanders  were  the  first  people  that 
phed  the  harpoon  in  the  seas  of  Greenland.  They 
united  their  means  with  those  of  the  Biscayan 
whalers,  and  in  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury the  two  nations  employed  fifty  or  sixty  vessels 
annually,  in  this  branch  of  commerce.  England 
sent  no  ship  to  fish  in  these  unknown  waters  till  the 
year  sixteen  hundred  and  eleven.  The  Dutch  fol- 
lowed four  years  after.  All  the  early  adventurers 
manned  their  ships  with  Biscay ans,  as  the  only  per- 
sons qualified  in  hardihood,  courage,  and  experi- 
ence, to  conduct  the  business.  There  were  two 
principals  in  each  ship,  one  of  whom  had  the  charge 
of  the  ship  on  her  passage  to  and  from  Greenland, 
and  the  other,  who  was  always  a  Biscayan,  had  the 
unlimited  control  of  the  fishery.  In  the  course  of 
time,  other  people  equalled  the  Biscayans  in  skill, 
and  they  lost  their  exclusive  employment. 

The  oflice  of  chief  harpooner,  which  requires 
great  courage  and  consummate  experience,  is  con- 
fided, in  the  Greenland  whale  ships,  to  a  person 


78  POLAR    REGIONS. 

called  the  specksioneer.     It  is  the  specksioneer's  duty 
to  superintend  the  extraction  and  boiling  of  the  fat. 

The  crew  of  a  Greenland  whaler  usually  consists 
of  forty  or  fifty  persons,  comprising  masters,  harpoon- 
ers,boatsteerers,  line  managers,  carpenters,  coopers, 
foremast  men,  and  apprentices.     Each  individual, 
from  the  master  to  the  boys,  receives  a  gratuity  for 
every  fish  stricken,  or  for  every  ton  of  oil  made,  as 
a  stimulus  to  exertion.     Masters  and  harpooners 
receive   a  small   sum   before    sailing,  in   place    of 
monthly  wages ;  and  if  they  procure  no  cargo,  they 
must  expect  nothing  beside  for  their  voyage.     In 
the  event  of  a  successful  voyage,  they  have  consid- 
erable advantages.     The  master  receives  three  guin- 
eas for  each  size  fish,  and  as  much  for  striking  a 
size  whale,  or  for  discovering  a  dead  one,  beside 
from  ten  to  twenty  shilhngs  per  ton  onthe  oil  made, 
and  commonly  a  twentieth,  or  at  least  a  thirtieth 
of  the  value  of  the  whole  cargo  into  the  bargain. 
While  he  remains  on  shore,  he  has  five  pounds  a 
month  for  his  attendance  on  the  ship.     Each  har- 
pooner  has  six  shillings  a  ton  on  oil,   and  half  a 
guinea  for  every  size  fish  he  strikes    during  the 
voyage.     In  addition  to  this,  the  chief  mate,  who  is 
usually  also  a  harpooner,  has  two  guineas  a  month 
while  at  sea,  and  a  guinea  for  each  size  fish.     The 
specksioneer  has  half  a  guinea  a  fish,  and  sometimes 
a  trifle  on  every  ton  of  oil.     The  boat  steerers,  fore- 
mast men,  &c.,  all  receive  some  small  premium  on 
every  ton  of  oil  made. 

The  croid's  nest  is  an  apparatus  placed  at  the  top- 
gallant-mast head,  as  a  watch  tower  for  the  use  of  the 


POLAR  REGIONS.  79 

man  on  the  look  out  In  difficult  situations  in  the 
ice,  his  presence  may  be  required  in  the  crow's 
nest  for  hours  together,  even  when  the  temperature 
is  twenty  degrees  below  the  freezing  point,  or 
more.  For  the  preservation  of  his  health,  as  well 
as  for  the  sake  of  comfort,  a  piece  of  canvass  is 
stretched  round  the  base  of  the  top-gallant-mast 
rigging,  or  a  kind  of  canvass  cask  is  put  up  to  pro- 
tect him  from  the  wind.  The  entrance,  in  the 
latter  case,  is  through  a  trap  in  the  bottom.  The 
crow's  nest  is  furnished  with  a  seat,  a  telescope,  a 
speaking  trumpet,  and  a  rifle  gun.  The  latter  is  to 
kill  narwhales,  w^hich  cannot  easily  be  shot  from 
the  deck  on  account  of  the  resistance  of  the  water 
horizontally.  Firing  almost  perpendicularly  down- 
ward from  the  mast  head,  is  oftener  successful. 

The  dangers  to  whale  ships  are  manifold,  and 
beside  the  risk  of  being  wrecked,  they  are  some- 
times beset  by  the  ice,  and  compelled  to  winter  in 
it.  Such  events  do  not  occur  so  frequently  in  mod- 
ern times  as  formerly,  though  the  fishery  is  carried 
on  in  higher  latitudes.  This  is  to  be  attributed  to 
the  extraordinary  exertions  of  the  whalemen.  They 
seek  the  most  protected  situations,  keep  a  constant 
watch,  and  remove  their  ships  on  the  first  approach 
of  danger.  If  so  beset  as  to  be  unable  to  move,  they 
saw  channels  through  the  solid  ice,  into  which  they 
push  their  vessels,  and  commonly  preserve  them. 

A  well  constructed  whaleboat  floats  lightly  on 
the  water,  is  capable  of  being  rowed  with  great 
speed,  and  of  being  speedily  turned — carries  six  or 
seven  men,  seven  or  eight  hundred  weight  of  lines, 


80  POLAR    REGIONS. 

with  various  other  materials,  and  yet  retains  the 
properties  of  safety,  buoyancy  and  celerity,  either  in 
smooth  water  or  in  a  considerable  sea.  A  '  six  oar- 
ed boat'  is  about  twentyseven  feet  long,  and  near 
six  feet  broad.  These  boats  are  built  of  fir  boards 
upon  an  oaken  frame,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
be  easily  repaired  when  damaged.  The  bow  and 
stern  are  both  sharp,  and  the  keel  is  depressed  in 
the  middle  for  greater  convenience  in  turning. 

As  harpoons  may  be  seen  in  every  ship-chand- 
ler's shop,  there  is  no  need  of  describing  them  here. 
Another  weapon  used  to  despatch  the  whale  is  the 
lance,  which  is  an  iron  spear,  six  feet  long,  with  a 
wooden  stock  or  handle  of  the  length  of  four  feet. 
These  two  weapons,  with  the  necessary  appenda- 
ges of  boats  and  lines,  are  sufficient  for  the  capture 
of  the  greatest  whale  that  ever  swam.  There  is,  be- 
side, a  kind  of  harpoon  which  is  shot  from  a  gun, 
but  being  difficult  to  adjust,  it  is  seldom  used. 
Every  boat  is  fitted  with  two  harpoons,  six  or  eight 
lances,  a  flag  for  signals,  and  an  axe  to  cut  the  fine 
in  case  of  accident.  The  boat  is  steered  with  a 
long  oar,  for  reasons  too  obvious  to  require  expla- 
nation. 

The  harpooner  rows  the  bow  oar.  It  is  his  duty, 
as  his  title  implies,  to  strike  and  despatch  the  whale, 
and  to  guide  the  lines.  He  has  command  of  the 
boat.  The  boat  steerer  is  next  in  command,  and 
intimates  the  motions  of  the  whale  to  the  harpooner. 

A  whale  swimming  near  the  surface  of  the  sea 
leaves  behind  him  an  eddy  resembling  the  wake  of 
a  ship,  by  which  his  course  may  be  traced,  as  well 


POLAR   REGIONS.  81 

as  by  the  flocks  of  birds  that  follow,  and  hover  over 
him. 

When  a  whale  lies  still  upon  the  water,  unconscious 
of  the  presence  of  its  enemies,  the  harpooner  com- 
mands to  row  the  boat  directly  upon  it,  and  the  in- 
stant before  the  boat  touches,  buries  his  harpoon  in 
its  back.  But  if,  while  the  boat  is  at  a  small  dis- 
tance, the  animal  indicates  an  intention  to  dive,  by 
raising  its  head  and  then  plunging  it  under  water, 
raising  its  back  till  it  appears  like  the  segment  of  a 
sphere,  the  harpoon  is  thrown  from  the  hand,  at 
the  distance  of  perhaps  ten  yards.  Then  is  the 
moment  of  danger :  the  wounded  whale,  in  its  sur- 
prise and  agony,  makes  a  convulsive  effort.  The 
boat  is  liable  to  receive  terrible  blows  from  its  head 
or  fins,  but  more  especially  from  its  tremendous 
tail,  which  sometimes  involves  boats  and  men  in 
common  destruction.  The  head  of  the  whale  is 
avoided  as  impenetrable,  but  any  part  between  the 
head  and  tail. will  admit  the  whole  length  of  the 
harpoon. 

The  first  effort  of  a  '  fast  fish,'  or  one  that  has 
been  struck,  is  to  escape  from  the  boat  by  sinking 
under  water.  After  this,  it  dives  directly  downward, 
or  appears  again  near  the  surface  at  a  litde  dis- 
tance, and  swims  with  great  celerity  towards  any 
neighbouring  ice  that  may  afford  it  an  imaginary 
shelter.  Sometimes  it  shows  its  bulk  above  water, 
and  gives  evidence  of  its  pain  by  convulsive  throes, 
beating  the  water  with  its  enormous  tail  and  fins. 
The  downward  course  of  a  whale  is,  however,  the 
most  common. 


82  POLAR  REGIONS. 

A  whale  struck  near  the  edge  of  a  large  sheet  of 
ice,  and  passing  under  it,  will  sometimes  run  all 
the  lines  out  of  a  boat  in  ten  minutes.  When  this 
happens,  and  there  is  no  other  boat  nigh  to  assist, 
the  whale,  harpoon,  and  lines  are  sometimes  all 
lost  together.  In  such  cases,  to  retard  the  whale 
as  much  as  possible,  it  is  usual  for  the  harpooner 
to  cast  one  or  more  turns  of  the  line  round  a  kind 
of  post  called  a  bollard,  which  is  fixed  at  the  bow 
of  the  boat  for  that  purpose.  The  friction  of  the 
line  would  set  fire  to  the  bollard,  if  the  harpooner 
was  not  careful  to  keep  it  constantly  wet.  In  the 
capture  of  one  whale,  a  groove  is  sometimes  cut  in 
it  an  inch  deep. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Farther  Account  of  Whale  KilUng. — Length  of  Time  required  to  kill  a  Whale. 
— Character  of  the  Whalemen. — Anecdotes  of  the  Greenland  Fishery. 

The  utmost  care  and  attention  are  necessary  while 
the  line  is  running  out.  Fatal  consequences  follow 
the  most  trifling  neglect.  When  the  line  becomes 
for  an  instant  entangled,  the  boat  is  drawn  under 
water,  and  if  no  other  boat  or  piece  of  ice  be  at 
hand,  the  crew  have  to  swim  for  their  lives.  To 
provide  against  such  accidents,  as  well  as  to  have 
additional  lines  in  readiness,  it  is  usual  for  two 
boats  to  go  in  company. 

After  a  whale  has  been  struck,  the  average  ve- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  83 

locity  of  his  descent  for  the  first  three  hundred 
fathoms  is  ten  miles  an  hour,  and  his  stay  under 
water  is  about  thirty  minutes.  The  faster  he  de- 
scends, and  the  longer  he  remains  under  water, 
the  greater  is  his  exhaustion,  and  the  consequent 
facihty  of  his  capture.  As  soon  as  he  reappears, 
the  assisting  boats  approach,  and  plunge  as  many 
harpoons  into  him  as  possible.  The  noise  made 
by  his  tail  in  his  dying  struggle  may  frequently  be 
heard  several  miles. 

Whales  are  sometimes  captured,  with  a  single 
harpoon,  in  the  space  of  fifteen  minutes.  Some- 
times they  resist  fifty  or  sixty  hours,  and  at  times 
they  will  break  three  or  four  lines  at  once,  or  tear 
themselves  clear  of  the  harpoons  by  the  violence  of 
their  struggles.  Generally  the  capture  of  a  whale 
depends  on  the  activity  of  the  harpooner,  the  state 
of  the  wind  and  weather,  or  the  peculiar  conduct 
of  the  animal  itself.  Under  the  most  favorable  cir- 
cumstances, when  the  whalemen  are  very  active, 
the  ice  very  open,  or  the  sea  clear  of  ice,  and  the 
weather  fine,  the  length  of  time  does  not  exceed 
an  hour.  The  general  average,  in  every  variety  of 
circumstances,  may  be  stated  at  two  hours. 

There  is  no  difference  in  the  mode  of  killing 
large  and  small  whales.  The  capture  of  a  small 
whale  is  easiest ;  but  it  sometimes  happens  that  a 
young  fish  gives  more  trouble  than  a  full  grown  one. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  a  small  whale  to  run  down- 
ward till  it  is  completely  exhausted,  and  being  una- 
ble to  return  to  the  surface,  to  suffocate  in  the  wa,- 
ter.     It  is  necessary  that  a  whale  thus  drowned 


84  POLAR   REGIONS. 

should  be  drawn  up  by  the  Une,  which  is  a  tedious 
and  laborious  operation.  To  guard  against  this,  its 
descent  is  resisted  by  a  tight  steady  strain  on  the 
line,  and  also  by  pulling,  the  instant  it  stops,  in 
order  to  increase  the  pain,  and  thereby  induce  the 
animal  to  return  to  the  surface,  where  it  can  be 
slain  and  secured  without  farther  ado. 

Instances  have  occurred  where  whales  have  been 
taken  without  being  struck  at  all,  simply  by  en- 
tangling themselves  in  the  lines  that  had  been  used 
to  destroy  others,  and  struggling  till  they  were 
drowned  or  died  of  exhaustion. 

It  w^ould  be  unjust  to  conclude  this  subject  with- 
out mentioning  the  singular  courage  and  intrepidity 
evinced  by  the  men  employed  in  the  capture  of  the 
whale.  Trained  to  the  occupation  from  boyhood, 
and  induced  by  rewards  of  much  importance  in  their 
stations,  such  quaUfications  are  highly  recommen 
datory  in  their  application  for  employment ;  and  in 
their  voyage,  should  '  good  luck '  attend  their  exer- 
tions, and  an  impHcit  devotedness  to  the  interests 
of  the  owner  be  evinced,  their  advancement  and 
emolument  are  certain.  Some  instances  of  their 
risks  and  adventures  will  convey  a  better  idea  of 
these  matters  than  anything  we  can  write  on  the 
subject. 

On  the  eighth  of  July  1813,  the  ship  Esk  lay  by 
the  edge  of  a  large  sheet  of  ice,  in  which  there 
were  several  thin  parts,  and  some  holes.  Here  a 
whale  being  heard  blowing,  a  harpoon,  with  a  line 
fastened  to  it,  was  conveyed  across  the  ice,  from  a 
boat  on  guard,  and  the  harpooner  succeeded  in  strik- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  85 

ing  the  whale,  at  the    distance    of  three  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  from  the  verge.     It  dragged  out  ten 
lines,  (2400  yards)   and  was  supposed  to  be  seen 
blowing  in  different  holes  in  the  ice.     After  some 
time  it  made  its  appearance  on  the  exterior,  and 
was  again  struck,  at  the  moment  it  was  about  to  go 
under  the  second  time.     About  an  hundred  yards 
from  the  edge,  it  broke  the  ice  where  it  was  a  foot 
thick,  with  its  head,  and  respired  through  the  open- 
ing.    It  then  pushed  forward,  breaking  the  ice  as  it 
advanced,  in  spite  of  the  lances  constantly  directed 
against  it.     At  last  it  reached  a  kind  of  basin  in  the 
field,  where  it  floated  on  the  surface  without  any  in- 
cumbrance from  ice.     Its  back  being  fairly  exposed, 
the  harpoon  struck  from  the  boat  on  the  outside, 
was  observed  to  be  so  slightly  entangled,  that  it  was 
ready  to  drop  out.     Some  of  the  officers  lamented 
this  circumstance,   and  wished  that   the   harpoon 
might  be  better  fast ;  at  the  same  time  observing 
that  if  it  should  slip  out,  either  the  fish  would  be 
lost,  or  they  would  be  under  the  necessity  of  flinch- 
ing it  where  it  lay,  and  of  dragging  the  blubber 
over  the  ice  to  the  ship ;  a  kind  and  degree  of  labor 
every  one  was  anxious  to  avoid.     No  sooner  was 
the  wish  expressed,  and  its  importance  explained, 
than  a  young  and  daring  sailor  stepped  forward,  and 
offered  to  strike  the  harpoon  deeper.     Not  at  all 
intimidated  by  the   surprise  manifested  on  every 
countenance  at  such  a  bold  proposal,  he  leaped  on 
the  back  of  the  living  whale,  and  cut  the  harpoon 
out  with  his  pocket  knife.     Stimulated  by  his  gal- 
lant example,  one  of  his  companions  proceeded  to 
8 


86  POLAR    REGIONS. 

his  assistance.  While  one  of  them  hauled  upon  the 
line  and  held  it  in  his  hands,  the  other  set  his  shoul- 
der against  the  end  of  the  harpoon,  and  though  it  was 
without  a  stock,  contrived  to  strike  it  again  into  the 
fish  more  effectually  than  at  first !  The  whale  was 
in  motion  before  they  had  finished.  After  they  got 
oflf  its  back,  it  advanced  a  considerable  distance, 
breaking  the  ice  all  the  way,  and  survived  this  novel 
treatment  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  This  daring  deed 
was  of  essential  service.  The  whale  fortunately 
sunk  spontaneously  after  it  expired ;  on  which  it 
was  hauled  out  under  the  ice  by  the  line  and  secured 
without  farther  trouble.  It  proved  a  mighty  whale  ; 
a  very  considerable  prize. 

In  1822,  two  boats  belonging  to  the  ship  Baffin 
went  in  pursuit  of  a  whale.  John  Carr  was  har- 
pooner  and  commander  of  one  of  them.  The 
whale  they  pursued  led  them  into  a  vast  shoal  of 
his  own  species  ;  they  were  so  numerous  that  their 
blowing  was  incessant,  and  they  believed  that  they 
did  not  see  fewer  than  an  hundred.  Fearful  of 
alarming  them  w^ithout  striking  any,  they  remained 
for  a  while  motionless.  At  last,  one  rose  near 
Carr's  boat,  and  he  approached,  and  fatally  for  him- 
self, harpooned  it.  When  he  struck,  the  fish  was 
approaching  the  boat ;  and,  passing  very  rapidly, 
jerked  the  line  out  of  its  place  over  the  stern,  and 
threw  it  upon  the  gunwale.  Its  pressure  in  this 
unfavorable  position  so  careened  the  boat,  that  the 
side  was  pulled  under  water,  and  it  began  to  fill. 
In  this  emergency,  Carr,  who  was  a  brave,  active 
man,  seized  the  line,  and  endeavoured  to/eheve  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  87 

boat  by  restoring  it  to  its  place  ;  but,  by  some  cir- 
cumstance which  was  never  accounted  for,  a  turn 
of  the  Hne  flew  over  his  arm,  dragged  him  over- 
board in  an  instant,  and  drew  him  under  the  water, 
never  more  to  rise.  So  sudden  was  the  accident, 
that  only  one  man,  who  was  watching  him,  saw 
what  had  happened ;  so  that  when  the  boat  righted, 
which  it  immediately  did,  though  half  full  of  water, 
the  whole  crew  on  looking  round  inquired  what 
had  become  of  Carr.  It  is  impossible  to  imagine  a 
death  more  awfully  sudden  and  unexpected.  The 
invisible  bullet  could  not  have  eff'ected  more  instan- 
taneous destruction.  The  velocity  of  the  whale  at 
its  first  descent  is  from  thirteen  to  fifteen  feet  per 
second.  Now  as  this  unfortunate  man  was  adjust- 
ing the  line  at  the  water's  very  edge,  where  it  must 
have  been  perfectly  tight,  owing  to  its  obstruction, 
in  running  out  of  the  boat,  the  interval  between  the 
fastening  the  line  about  him  and  his  disappearance 
could  not  have  exceeded  the  third  part  of  a  second 
of  time,  for  in  one  second  only  he  must  have  been 
dragged  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep.  Indeed  he  had 
not  time  for  the  least  exclamation ;  and  the  person 
who  saw  his  removal,  observed  that  it  was  so  ex- 
ceeding quick,  that  though  his  eye  was  upon  him 
at  the  moment,  he  could  scarcely  distinguish  his 
figure  as  he  disappeared. 

As  soon  as  the  crew  recovered  from  their  con- 
sternation, they  applied  themselves  to  the  needful 
attention  which  the  lines  required.  A  second  har- 
poon was  struck  from  the  accompanying  boat  on  the 
raising  of  the  whale  to  the  surface,  and  some  lances 


88  POLAR    REGIONS. 

were  applied,  but  this  melancholy  occurrence  had 
cast  such  a  damp  on  all  present,  that  they  became 
timid  and  inactive  in  their  subsequent  duties.  The 
whale  when  nearly  exhausted  was  allowed  to  re- 
main some  minutes  unmolested,  till  having  recover- 
ed some  degree  of  energy,  it  made  a  violent  effort 
and  tore  itself  away  from  both  harpoons.  The 
exertions  of  the  crews  thus  proved  fruitless,  and 
were  attended  with  serious  loss. 

In  1802,  the  Raith  of  Leith,  while  prosecuting 
the  whale  fishery  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  discov- 
ered a  large  whale  at  a  short  distance.  Four  boals 
were  despatched  in  pursuit,  and  two  of  them  suc- 
ceeded so  well  in  approaching  it  that  two  harpoons 
were  struck  at  the  same  moment.  The  whale 
descended  a  few  fathoms  in  the  direction  of  anoth- 
er of  the  boats,  which  was  advancing,  rose  beneath 
it,  struck  it  with  its  head,  and  threw  the  boat,  men 
and  apparatus,  fifteen  feet  into  the  air.  The  boat 
was  inverted  by  the  blow,  and  fell  into  the  water 
keel  uppermost.  All  the  crew  were  picked  up  by 
the  fourth  boat,  which  was  close  at  hand,  excepting 
one  man,  who,  being  entangled  in  the  boat,  fell  un- 
der it,  and  was  consequently  drowned.  The  whale 
was  afterward  killed. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  89 


CHAPTER   V. 

Account  of  the  Discovery  of  Greenland. — Early  History. — America  discovered 
by  Icelanders. — Greenlandic  Colony  in  America. — First  Appearance  of  the 
Esquimaux. — Black  Death  and  Loss  of  Greenland. — Attempts  at  Redis- 
covery and  Recolonization. — Greenland  recolonized  by  Hans  Egede. 

To  Icelanders  belongs  the  honor  of  the  discov- 
ery of  Greenland.  A  certain  Gunbioern,  being 
driven  vrestward  in  a  storm,  was  the  first  that  saw 
its  shores.  This  was  soon  after  the  colonization  of 
Iceland.  No  attempt  was,  however,  made  to  col- 
onize Greenland  at  that  time.  But  an  Icelandic 
noble,  by  name  Eric  Raude  or  the  Red,  having 
killed  another  of  his  own  rank,  found  it  expedient 
to  fly  from  the  avengers  of  blood  to  some  remote 
asylum.  Accordingly,  in  982,  he  repaired  to  Green- 
land, and  first  came  in  sight  of  land  at  HerjolPs  Ness  ; 
then  proceeding  southwest  along  the  coast,  he  win- 
tered on  what  he  called  a  pleasant  island.  Having 
spent  three  years  in  exploring  the  coast,  he  return- 
ed to  Iceland,  where  he  promulgated  such  a  glow- 
ing description  of  the  new  land  that  great  num- 
bers of  his  countrymen  followed  him  thither  the 
ensuing  spring.  No  less  than  twentyfive  ships 
sailed  in  his  company,  of  which  only  fourteen  reach- 
ed the  place  of  their  destination,  the  rest  being  ei- 
ther lost  or  driven  back  to  Iceland.  In  the  course  of 
years,  new  swarms  of  colonists  arrived  from  Iceland 
and  Norway,  and  settled  so  thick  on  the  east  and 
west  coast,  that  their  number  was  computed  to  be 
8* 


90  POLAR    REGIONS. 

equal  to  the  third  part  of  the  population  of  a  Da- 
nish episcopal  diocese. 

Much  discrepancy  exists  in  the  accounts  of  these 
settlements  by  the  early  historians  of  Iceland ;  but 
all  agree  that  there  were  several  establishments  be- 
tween HerjolPs  Ness  and  Staten  Hunk  on  the  east- 
ern shore.  As  many  as  nineteen  are  enumerated 
and  described.  Their  account  too  of  the  climate 
and  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms  are  total- 
ly at  variance  with  the  experience  of  the  present 
day.  The  early  history  of  the  colonies  is  little 
more  than  a  bulletin  of  broils  and  murders,  many  of 
them  caused  by  the  zeal  of  the  first  Christian  con- 
verts, and  by  the  fanaticism  of  the  Pagans. 

The  Greenlanders  became  tributary  to  Denmark 
in  A.  D.  1023,  which  was  soon  after  they  embraced 
Christianity.  They  erected  themselves  into  a  bish- 
opric, and  there  is  a  long  list  of  their  bishops  on 
record.  There  is  no  evidence  that  such  a  thing  as 
a  military  force  ever  existed  among  them,  but  there 
is  sufficient  proof  that  they  had  ships,  and  were  well 
skilled  in  navigation ;  and  it  is  incontestible  that 
America  was  first  discovered  by  them.  To  this 
effect  we  have  the  concurring  testimony  of  Arngrim 
Jonas  and  Torfaeus,  corroborated  by  that  of  Adam 
Bremensis,  who  wrote  about  the  time  of  the  discov- 
ery. .  We  opine  that  this  curious  piece  of  history 
should  not  be  passed  over  in  silence. 

According  to  these  authorities,  Biorn,  the  son  of 
Herjolf,  on  his  way  to  Greenland  from  Norway, 
was  driven  by  a  storm  to  the  southwest,  where  he 
discovered  a  flat,  well-wooded  country,  and  next  to 


POLAR  REGIONS.  91 

an  island.   After  this,  he  steered  directly  to  Green- 
land. 

When  his  discovery  became  known,  Leif,  the  son 
of  Eric  Raude,  emulous  of  his  father's  fame  as  a  nav- 
igator and  discoverer,  fitted  out  a  ship  and  sailed  in 
company  with  Biorn.     The  first  land  they  saw  was 
stoney   and  barren,   and  they   called   it   Flatland. 
Then  they  canip  to  another  shore,  which  they  de- 
nominated Markland  or  Level  land.     Two  days  af- 
ter, they  came  in  sight  of  another  coast,  and  sailed  up 
a  river  the  banks  of  which  w^ere  covered  with  bushes 
bearing  berries,  and  arrived  at  a  small  lake,  of  all  of 
which  a  minute  description  is  given.     Here  they 
spent  the  winter,  and  found  that  on  the  shortest  day 
the   sun  rose    at  eight  o'clock,   which  determines 
the  latitude  of  their  wintering  ground  to  have  been 
in  49°  north,  probably  on  the  island  of  Newfound- 
land, or  in  the  river  St  Lawrence. 

They  found  grapes  here,  from  which  circum- 
stance they  called  the  country  Wineland.  In  the 
spring,  they  returned  to  Greenland. 

The  next  year,  Thorwald,  Lief  s  brother,  return- 
ed. He  fell  in  with  a  party  of  natives,  who  from 
the  description  of  them  must  have  been  Esqui- 
maux. In  contempt  of  their  small  stature  and  mis- 
erable appearance,  the  Greenlanders  killed  them  all, 
excepting  one  man,  who  made  a  timely  escape. 
They  bestowed  upon  these  savages  the  contempt- 
uous appellation  of  Skroelings,  or  dwarfs. 

They  were  in  their  turn  attacked  by  the  despised 
SkroeUngs,  and  Thorwald  their  leader  paid  for  his 
cruelty  with  his  life.     His  people  returned  home 


92  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  next  spring.  A  colony  was  settled  in  Wine- 
land,  and  a  trade  was  carried  on  between  it  and 
Greenland  for  more  then  a  century.  Civil  dissen- 
sions finally  destroyed  it,  and  the  colonists  perished. 
He  who  doubts  these  statements,  or  wishes  to  learn 
the  history  in  detail,  may  refer  to  the  authors  al- 
ready given  as  authority. 

The  first  Skroehngs  or  Esquimaux  seen  by  the 
Scandenavian  colonists  were  those  slaughtered  by 
Thorwald,  and  his  crew  in  Wineland.  Suddenly  in 
the  fourteenth  century,  they  made  their  appearance 
in  West  Greenland,  where  they  killed  eighteen  of 
the  settlers,  and  then  fled.  This  happened,  accord- 
ing to  Torfaeus,  in  1349.  Since  that  time  the 
Northern  annals  are  silent  respecting  these  savages, 
and  all  accounts  of  the  history  of  Greenland  draw 
to  a  close  soon  after. 

About  the  year  1350,  a  horrible  pestilence,  called 
the  Black  Death,  made  terrible  ravages  among  the 
colonists.  It  is  said  to  have  been  so  virulent  as  not 
only  to  destroy  animal  life,  but  to  annihilate  the 
whole  vegetable  kingdom  of  Greenland,  leaving  the 
land  blasted  and  desolate.  It  began  in  the  north 
of  Europe,  and  thence  extended  to  Iceland  and 
Greenland.  The  wretched  remnant  of  the  colonists 
drew  together  on  the  eastern  shore.  By  degrees 
their  trade  was  neglected.  In  the  fifteenth  century 
all  access  to  the  coast  was  cut  off  by  the  before 
mentioned  change  in  the  position  of  the  ice,  and  no 
more  was  ever  known  of  them.  There  are  some 
vague  accounts  of  their  having  been  seen  at  times 
from  vessels  that  had  succeeded  in  getting  nigh  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  93 

coast ;  but  it  amounts  to  certainty,  that  by  some  means 
or  other  they  perished,  root  and  branch,  and  left 
none  the  sHghtest  vestige  of  their  existence  behind. 

In  the  reign  of  Queen  Ehzabeth,  Martin  Frobish- 
er  discovered  Greenland,  and  penetrated  the  strait 
known  by  his  name.  His  attempts  were  succeeded 
by  those  of  John  Davis,  who  discovered  Davis' 
Straits,  and  actually  landed  in  Greenland,  at  the 
mouth  of  Baal's  River,  and  traded  with  the  natives. 
Button,  Hudson  and  Baffin,  in  seeking  for  a  north- 
west passage,  added  much  to  the  knowledge  of  arc- 
tic geography. 

In  1605  Christian  II.  of  Denmark,  sent  three  ships 
to  look  for  lost  Greenland.  They  landed,  took  six 
savages  prisoners,  of  whom  they  killed  one,  to  awe 
the  rest  into  submission,  and  returned  to  Denmark. 
The  fate  of  the  prisoners  was  melancholy.  They 
pined  for  their  native  land,  and  at  last  escaping,  put 
to  sea  in  their  canoes  to  return  thither.  Being  driv- 
en back  by  a  storm  to  the  coast  of  Denmark,  they 
were  retaken,  and  three  of  them  died  of  grief.  Two 
of  the  survivors  again  attempted  flight,  but  one  of 
them  was  recovered.  Two  of  them  were  kept  in 
Denmark  ten'or  eleven  years,  and  employed  in  the 
pearl  fishery  at  Coldingen.  Here  they  were  so 
rigorously  tasked,  even  in  winter,  that  one  of  them 
sunk  under  the  load  of  life.  The  other  once  more 
fled,  but  was  retaken  more  than  an  hundred  miles 
from  land,  and  died  broken-hearted. 

In  1606  three  more  vessels  sailed  to  Greenland; 
but  the  natives  were  so  exasperated  at  the  treatment 
they  had  received,  that  they  would  allow  the  crew 


94  POLAR    REGIONS. 

no  intercourse  with  the  shore.  Two  more  ships 
were  despatched,  which  failed  to  reach  the  land  on 
account  of  the  ice,  and  Christian  gave  up  the  pro- 
ject of  settling  Greenland,  in  despair. 

In  1636,  a  company  of  Copenhagen  merchants 
fitted  out  two  ships  for  Greenland.  The  crew  land- 
ed on  a  beach  of  glittering  yellow  sand,  with  which 
they  loaded  their  ships,  imagining  they  had  found  a 
second  Ophir.  On  their  return  to  Copenhagen,  it 
w^as  examined,  and  proved  to  be  wholly  worthless, 
and  the  chancellor  ordered  it  to  be  thrown  into  the 
sea.  They  had,  however,  what  was  of  more  value, 
in  the  horns  of  the  narwhale,  which  they  sold  as 
the  horns  of  the  land  unicorn,  at  six  thousand  rix 
dollars  apiece. 

During  seven  successive  reigns,  the  Danes  were 
assiduous  to  find  and  repossess  the  lost  land  of  their 
ancestors.  The  accomplishment  of  this  purpose  was 
reserved  for  the  pious  zeal  of  Hans  Egede,  who  ad- 
dressed a  memorial  to  Frederic  IV.,  praying  to  be 
employed  in  the  conversion  of  the  Greenland  sava- 
ges. He  was  stimulated  to  this  exertion  by  a  be- 
lief that  the  descendants  of  the  lost  colonists,  whom 
he  supposed  to  be  yet  in  existence,  had  sunk  into  Pa- 
ganism for  want  of  teachers.  His  petition  w^as  not 
granted,T3ut  postponed  from  year  to  year ;  but  still  he 
persevered,  and  resigned  his  pastoral  office  in  Nor- 
way, and  his  means  of  subsistence,  that  he  might  be  in 
readiness,  whenever  it  should  please  the  Lord  to 
call  him.  Men  very  justly  regarded  him  as  an  en- 
thusiast, who  had  deserted  his  proper  calling,  in 
which  he  might  have  been  really  useful,  and  wan- 


POLAR  REGIONS.  95 

dered  about  like  a  knight  errant,  confiding  in  vision- 
ary revelations.  However,  by  his  indefatigable  per- 
severance, after  having  sustained  many  repulses, 
he  prevailed  on  some  private  persons  to  fit  out  an 
expedition  with  the  double  motive  of  fishing  for 
whales  and  converting  the  Esquimaux.  The  king 
approved  the  project,  and  gave  Mr  Egede  an  annual 
salary  of  sixty  pounds,  and  he  sailed  in  May  1721. 
On  the  third  of  July,  he  landed  at  Baal's  River,  and 
from  this  day  the  recolonization  of  Greenland  may 
be  dated. 

He  found  the  Greenlanders  distrustful  of  their 
new  guests,  and  very  unwiUing  that  any  permanent 
settlement  should  be  formed.  After  a  while  he  so 
far  overcame  the  obstinacy  of  some  of  them,  that 
they  consented  to  receive  baptism. 

We  have  neither  room  nor  inclination  to  pursue 
the  history  of  a  few  small  and  miserable  settlements 
farther.  Of  good  fishermen  and  Greenlanders,  Mr 
Egede  made  a  good  many  bad  Christians,  and  the 
Danish  authorities  keep  them  nominally  such  to  this 
day. 


96  POLAR    REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  VL 


Climate  of  Greenland. — Seasons  and  Weather. — Length  of  Days  and  Nights. — 
Flora  of  Greenland. — Greenlandic  Gardens. — General  Remarks. — Voyage 
of  Captain  Ross. 

It  will  be  readily  believed,  that  in  a  country  like 
Greenland,  where  the  snow  and  ice  are  eternal,  the 
cold  must  be  severe.  Yet  it  may  be  borne  while 
the  sun  shines  one  or  two  hours  daily.  No  general 
observations  on  the  climate  or  weather  of  a  land 
which  comprises  so  many  degrees  of  latitude  will 
be  strictly  applicable  to  all  its  parts,  and  we  shall 
therefore  take  Disko  as  our  example,  leaving  the 
reader  to  draw  his  own  inferences  respecting  the 
other  districts  of  Greenland. 

In  the  beginning  of  January,  the  ice  and  hoar  frost 
at  Disko  extend  down  the  chimneys  to  the  stoves, 
and  are  not  thawed  by  any  fire  that  may  be  made 
during  the  day.  All  parts  of  the  houses  are  cover- 
ed with  a  thick  coat  of  congelation.  The  breath  of 
the  sleeper  freezes,  and  glues  the  bed-clothes  to 
the  bed.  Meat  must  be  hewed  to  pieces  with  an 
axe  ;  and  when  put  into  boiling  water,  the  outside  is 
cooked  before  the  inside  is  thawed.  Ink,  beer,  and 
strong  waters  freeze,  and  burst  the  bottles.  Spirits 
of  wine,  of  the  highest  proof,  acquire  the  consistency 
of  frozen  oil.  However,  this  intense  cold  seldom 
lasts  more  than  four  or  five  days,  without  being  in- 
terrupted by  a  thaw. 

The  strongest  frost  sets  in  about  New  Year's 


POLAR   REGIONS.  97 

day,  and  is  in  February  and  March  so  intense  as  to 
cleave  large  stones ;  and  vapor  rises  from  the  sea 
as  from  an  oven.  This  is  called  the  frost  smoke. 
^Those  who  venture  out  into  it  are  aware  of  a  dark- 
ness, but  not  of  the  piercing  cold  which  is  felt  in  a 
dry  atmosphere,  though  their  hair  and  clothes  are 
stiffened  with  rime.  The  frost  smoke  is  apt  to 
raise  blisters  on  the  hair  and  skin,  and  when  the 
air  is  sufficiently  cold,  congeals  into  minute  pellicles, 
which  are  driven  before  the  wind,  and  cause  such  a 
degree  of  cold  on  shore  that  it  is  impossible  to  stir 
out  of  doors  without  freezing.  At  such  times  the 
straits  and  bays  are  ice-locked,  and  the  natives  are 
in  danger  of  starvation. 

The  summer  begins  in  May  and  ends  in  Septem- 
ber, and  in  the  interval  between  them  the  Green- 
landers  live  in  tents.  The  earth,  however,  is  not 
thawed  before  June,  and  even  then  to  no  great 
depth.  Snow  continues  to  fall  during  this  month 
and  recommences  in  August,  though  it  does  not 
He  till  October.  In  the  long  summer  days,  in  bays 
and  vallies,  w^here  the  sun's  rays  are  concentrated, 
it  is  sometimes  needful  to  pull  off  the  warmer  arti- 
cles of  dress.  In  the  open  sea  the  heat  is  sufficient 
to  melt  the  pitch  on  the  sides  of  vessels.  Yet  the 
evening  breeze  is  so  chilled  by  its  passage  over 
fields  of  ice,  that  a  double  covering  is  a  barely  suf- 
ficient protection  from  the  cold.  From  April  to  Au- 
gust fogs  prevail  on  the  sea  shore,  and  are  frequently 
so  dense,  that  the  vision  only  reaches  a  few  yards. 
The  fine  weather  is  most  durable  in  autumn  :  even 
9 


98  POLAR  REGIONS. 

then  it  never  lasts  long,  and  there  is  a  constant  al- 
teration, of  heat  in  the  day  and  cold  in  the  night. 

The  air  of  Greenland  is  pure,  light,  and  favora- 
ble to  the  health  of  those  who  take  proper  care  of 
it.  The  most  common  diseases  of  the  country  are 
scurvy,  fistula,  and  oppression  on  the  breast  and 
eyelids,  caused  partly  by  oily  diet,  and  in  part  by 
the  cold  and  the  glare  of  the  snow. 

Lasting  rains  are  not  frequent,  especially  at  Disko, 
where  the  summer  is  usually  dry.  Hail  is  still 
more  rare.  The  winds  are  variable,  but  in  summer 
they  usually  blow  from  the  shore,  and  are  not  so 
cold  but  they  may  be  endured.  _  Yet  when  storms 
do  arise,  which  is  most  common  in  autumn,  the 
houses  crack  and  tremble,  tents  and  boats  are  blown 
into  the  air,  and  the  sea  water  is  showered  over  the 
land  in  a  drizzling  rain.  Whirlwinds  sometimes 
occur  in  summer,  which  raise  the  waters  to  a  great 
height,  and  boats  are  often  lost  in  the  eddies.  The 
greater  number  and  the  most  violent  of  these  hurri- 
canes blow  from  the  south.  If  the  moon  be  encir- 
cled by  a  halo,  or  if  the  evening  sky  be  marked 
with  various  colors,  it  is  considered  a  prognostic  of 
an  approaching  storm. 

Above  the  sixtysixth  degree  of  north  latitude,  for 
some  time  before  and  after  midsummer,  the  sun  never 
sets.  At  frodhaab,  in  latitude  64*^,  it  goes  down 
about  twenty  minutes  past  ten,  and  rises  again  ten 
minutes  before  two,  being  below  the  horizon  but  two 
hours  and  forty  minutes.  In  June  and  July  it  is  so 
light  during  the  night  that  the  smallest  print  may  be 
read  with  facility*     In  the  same  months  the  moun- 


POLAR   REGIONS.  99 

tain  tops  are  constantly  gilded  by  the  sunbeams. 
During  the  period  in  which  the  sun  does  not  set, 
he  ceases  to  dazzle  a  few  hours  after  noon,  and 
presents  the  appearance  of  a  full  moon,  on  which 
the  eye  may  gaze  with  impunity. 

The  winter  nights  are  of  a  proportionate  length. 
In  Disko  Bay,  the  sun  does  not  rise  from  the  thir- 
tieth of  January.  The  inhabitants  then  only  enjoy 
a  clear  twihght,  produced  by  the  reflection  of  the 
sun's  rays  from  the  dense  atmosphere,  and  from  the 
adjacent  mountains.  Thus  it  is  never  so  utterly 
dark  in  Greenland  as  in  more  southern  countries. 
The  light  of  the  moon  and  stars  is  so  strongly  re- 
flected from  the  snow  and  ice,  that  ordinary  writing 
may  be  read  at  all  times  of  the  night ;  and  when 
there  is  no  moon,  its  absence  is  more  than  compen- 
sated by  the  brilhant  coruscations  of  the  Aurora 
Borealis.  ParheHa  and  luminous  haloes  round  the 
sun  and  moon  are  more  frequently  seen  in  Green- 
land than  in  warmer  countries.  Optical  deceptions 
are  of  common  occurrence,  and  have  given  subject 
to  many  a  tale  of  wonder. 

The  Greenlandic  Flora  shows  no  fairer  colors 
than  might  be  expected  in  such  a  land.  The 
vallies  produce  nothing  but  mosses  and  a  miserable 
species  of  grass.  A  few  herbs,  bilberry  bushes,  and 
other  shrubs  vegetate  on  the  desert  isles,  and  on  cliflfs 
which  have  just  soil  enough  to  suffer  them  to  take 
root.  They,  seem  to  be  the  last  sad  memorials  of  a 
vegetation  which  is  about  to  be  succeeded  by  other 
sterility.  The  most  common  is  Cochlearia,  or  scur- 
vy grass,  which  is  found  in  abundance  wherever 


100  POLAR    REGIONS. 

blubber  or  any  other  manure  has  prepared  a  soil. 
A  soup  is  made  of  it,  which  is  the  best  medicine 
for  the  scurvy  and  many  other  diseases.  The  other 
plants  are 

Azalea,  a  creeper  with  beautiful  red  flowers. 

Empetrum  nigrum,  the  crow,  or  crakeberry,  with 
juicy  blackberries  and  flesh-colored  flowers. 

Andromeda,  with  violet,  bell-shaped  flowers. 

Ruhus  chammmorus,  or  cloud  berry,  which  never 
comes  to  maturity. 

Rumex  digynus,  mountain  sorrel,  found  on  ruined 
buildings. 

Angelica  archangelica,  eaten  by  the  inhabitants. 

Polygonum  viviparum,  Alpine  snakeweed.  The 
root  is  eaten. 

Ledum  palustre,  wild  rosemary. 

Thymos  acinos,  Basil  thyme. 

Rhodiola  rosea,  which  is  eaten. 

Beside  these  there  are  mosses  and  lichens,  some 
of  which  may  be  used  for  food.  The  juniper  is 
abundant :  there  are  also  willows  and  birches  of  an 
abortive  growth,  which  creep  along  the  ground. 

According  to  the  Greenlanders,  the  southern  part 
of  the  country  produces  wild  service  trees,  and 
aspen  poplars  in  abundance. 

Some  attempts  have  been  made  to  cultivate  oats 
and  barley,  but  they  never  came  to  perfection, 
though  they  shot  up  as  high  a  leaf  here  as  in  other 
countries. 

The  gardens  cannot  be  very  productive,  as  no 
seed  can  be  sowed  till  the  middle  of  June,  and  the 
frost  recommences  in  September.     Everything  must 


POLAR   REGIONS.  101 

then  be  taken  from  the  ground  and  laid  by,  ex- 
cept chives,  which  will  endure  the  winter.  Salad 
and  cabbage  will  not  bear  transplanting,  and  remain 
very  small.  Radishes  thrive  as  well  here  as  in  any 
other  country.  Turnips  are  seldom  bigger  than  an 
egg.  These  are  all  that  can  be  reared  in  gardens ; 
nor  will  they  even  produce  these,  unless  care  be 
had  to  screen  them  from  the  north  wind  and  the 
spray  of  the  sea. 

This  then  is  the  land  that  the  early  northern  navi- 
gators described  as  a  terrestrial  paradise,  and  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Greenland  from  its 
vegetation.  Either  the  soil  and  climate  must  have 
undergone  a  total  change,  or  they  were  but  indiffer- 
ent judges  of  arable  lands.  Barren  and  inhospita- 
ble as  it  is,  the  love  of  country  abides  even  here. 
No  people  are  more  devotedly  attached  to  their  na- 
tive land  than  the  poor  Uskees.  Of  this  we  have 
seen  a  notable  instance  in  the  conduct  of  those  who 
were  carried  captives  to  Denmark. 

Greenland  is  not  without  wherewith  to  interest 
the  lovers  of  the  marvellous  and  the  romantic.  Not 
to  say  any  thing  farther  of  ice  and  icebergs,  of  ships 
and  shipwrecks,  of  whales  and  whale  killers,  it  is 
written  that  in  these  waters  many  kinds  of  moUusca 
and  barnacles  exchange  their  calcareous  covering 
for  one  of  feathers,  and,  forsaking  their  permanent 
submarine  abodes,  fly  in  the  air  in  the  more  digni- 
fied capacities  of  aquatic  fowls.  It  would  perhaps 
be  matter  of  supererogation  to  say  that  the  welking 
horns  and  continental  bulk  of  the  kraken  are  no- 
where to  be  seen  so  often  as  in  the  Greenland 
9* 


102  POLAR    REGIONS. 

seas — or  of  words  which  freeze  in  the  air  of  mid- 
winter, and  make  themselves  heard  unbidden  at  the 
first  thaw.  Here,  in  the  coral  groves,  the  mermai- 
den  coquets  with  the  merman,  or  clears  her  green 
tresses  on  the  rocks  of  the  shore  with  her  comb. 
Nay,  she  has  so  much  of  the  female  in  her,  that  she 
sometimes  bites  at  a  baited  hook,  and  becomes  the 
prey  of  the  fishermen,  who  tries  her  oil  out,  without 
regard  to  her  sex.  It  is  supposed  that  they  have 
w^ell  endowed  monasteries  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea  ; 
for  some  of  the  masculine  gender  are  found  to 
wear  cowls,  and  such  are  always  the  fattest.  It  is 
notorious,  too,  that  one  of  the  Sea  Serpents  has 
within  a  few  years  left  the  arctic  waters,  on  a  visit 
to  Marblehead.  These  creatures  are  beheved  to 
be  pugnacious  in  their  propensities,  to  wear  whiskers, 
and  to  glare  from  fiery  red  eyes,  as  big  as  pewter 
plates.  Let  all  unbehevers  consult  Pontoppidan, 
w^ho  will  give  them  a  full  account  of  these,  and 
more  marvels. 

That  part  of  Greenland  which  apparently  extends 
westward  from  the  northwestern  extremity  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay  will  be  best  described  by  some  account  of 
the  late  voyages  of  discovery  in  that  quarter,  to 
which,  indeed,  we  are  indebted  for  the  sum  of  our 
knowledge. 

The  first  of  these  voyages  was  that  of  Captain 
Ross,  of  the  British  navy.  This  officer  sailed  from 
England  with  two  ships,  in  1818,  to  seek  a  passage 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean  round  the  northern  coast  of 
America.  The  results  of  his  voyage  were  ;  first,  the 
discovery  that  Baffin's  Bay  really  existed,  a  matter 


POLAR   REGIONS.  103 

held  doubtful  since  the  time  of  Baffin ;  second,  by 
the  determination  of  many  points  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  that  bay ;  third,  the  discovery  of  Lancas- 
ter's Sound ;  and  lastly,  a  series  of  interesting  obser- 
vations on  the  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle.  A  list 
of  the  names  of  the  points  at  which  he  touched, 
would  be  in  no  wise  interesting.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that  the  general  appearance  of  the  country  north  of 
the  Danish  settlements  was  mountainous,  barren, 
and  inhospitable. 

At  the  place  called  by  him  the  Arctic  Highlands, 
he  found  a  tribe,  differing  chiefly  from  the  Green- 
landers  and  other  Esquimaux,  in  having  no  canoes, 
nor  other  means  of  floating  except  on  pieces  of  ice, 
yet  living  by  fishing  and  seahng.  They  had  never 
seen  white  men  before,  nor  had  they  any  knowledge 
of  their  existence.  In  language,  dress,  manners, 
character,  and  personal  appearance,  they  were  hke 
all  other  Esquimaux.  As  we  propose  to  speak 
more  at  large  on  the  subject  of  this  race  in  another 
chapter,  we  forbear  to  give  the  fruits  of  the  obser- 
vations of  Captain  Ross,  though  they  are  well  worthy 
of  more  attention. 

Having  added  much  to  our  knowledge  of  north- 
ern geography,  Captain  Ross  returned  to  England. 


104  POLAR    REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Of  the  Uskees,  or  Aboriginal  Inhabitants  of  Greenland. — Their  physical 
Characteristics. — Dress.-r-Their  Relations  with  other  Tribes. — Progress 
in  Religion  and  Civilization. — Intercourse  with  Europeans. — Knowledge  in 
Trade. — Form  of  Society. 

In  person,  the  Uskees  are  diminutive,  but  stoutly 
made.  They  are  seldom  above  four  feet  four  inch- 
es, except  in  the  settled  parts  of  Greenland,  where 
the  national  figure  is  changed  by  intermarriage  with 
the  Danes.  The  native  Uskees  do  not  cordially 
associate  with  this  mixed  race,  which  they  consider 
as  degenerate.  In  complexion,  they  are  generally 
of  an  ohve  brown.  Their  forehead  and  the  sides  of 
the  head,  above  the  temples,  are  greatly  depressed ; 
the  crown  is  elevated  considerably,  and  the  back 
of  the  head  is  depressed,  as  well  as  the  forehead. 
The  smaller  end  of  a  hen's  egg  presents  a  familiar 
resemblance  to  their  cranium.  The  eye  is  usual- 
ly small,  but  piercing,  not  brilliant ;  and  the  calm, 
mild  manner  with  which  they  contemplate  a  stran- 
ger, gives  a  good  idea  of  the  power  of  the  eye. 
Their  vision  is  astonishingly  strong,  by  means  of 
which  they  can  distinguish  objects  at  an  incredible 
distance.  The  snow  glare  affects  their  eyes  very 
much,  which  are  often  observed  to  be  inflamed. 
Against  this  inconvenience,  they  have  many  inge- 
nious contrivances,  in  the  manner  of  eye-shades, 
which  are  usually  a  piece  of  wood  made  to  fix 
across  the  eyes,  having  two  fine  slits,  and  a  pin- 
hole in  the  centre  of  each  to  correspond  to  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.        ,  105 

centre  of  vision.  Their  cheek  bones  are  high, 
which,  with  their  rounded  flabby  cheeks,  renders 
the  nose  by  no  means  a  prominent  feature.  Their 
hps  and  mouth  are  generally  large ;  the  former 
very  much  protruded.  The  lower  part  of  their 
face  altogether  forms  a  striking  contrast  to  their 
narrow  forehead,  and  is  a  chief  distinguishing  fea- 
ture of  this  people.  The  women  differ  little  from 
the  men,  except  that  they  are  not  so  tall.  Their 
hands  are  remarkably  fine,  small,  and  neat.  The 
same  remark  applies  to  their  feet. 

The  dress  of  both  sexes  is  nearly  alike;  the 
women  being  distinguished  only  by  their  jacket  ter- 
minating in  a  triangular  piece,  before  and  behind, 
reaching  to  the  knees.  Nothing  about  the  person 
of  the  Uskees  is  more  remarkable  than  their  hair. 
It  hangs  from  their  heads,  long,  black,  coarse  and 
lank,  exactly  Hke  the  hairy  parts  of  whalebone. 
The  women  tie  it  in  a  bunch  upon  the  top  of  the 
head,  which  takes  away  much  of  the  unsightliness 
of  such  an  object. 

In  the  course  of  their  wanderings,  coming  in 
contact  with  other  tribes,  who,  from  causes  not 
necessary  to  form  a  part  of  this  inquiry,  had  already 
spread  over  other  parts  of  the  American  continent, 
and  being  of  peaceful  and  very  unwarhke  habits, 
they  were  unfit  to  associate  with  their  new  neigh- 
bours. The  consequence  was,  that  the  red  IndianSj 
as  they  are  termed,  who  lived  entirely  by  the  chase, 
usually  attributed  to  their  timid  neighbours  every 
unfavorable  change  of  weather  that  interfered  with 
their   hunting.     Hence  arose  wars,  which  to  the 


106  POLAR  REGIONS. 

present  day  are  continued  with  undiminished  asper- 
ity. The  appearance  too  of  the  Uskee,  clad  in  his 
skins,  his  head  wrapped  in  a  hood,  and  his  whole 
figure  lowly,  and  little  expressive  of  warlike  charac- 
ter, was  remarkably  contrasted  with  the  tall,  grace- 
ful figure  of  the  red  man,  accustomed  to  warfare, 
and  impatient  of  intrusion. 

The  Uskees,  in  self-defence,  must  have  learned 
also  how  to  fight,  and  doubtless  retaUated  with  de- 
vastating effect,  having  always  a  sure  retreat  in  their 
boats.  This  disposition  the  earlier  settlers  from 
Norway  discovered  to  their  cost,  when  they  pro- 
voked them  to  vengeance  in  Greenland,  and  were 
in  consequence  extirpated. 

The  Danes,  in  re-establishing  their  claims  to  the 
possession  of  Greenland,  have  done  very  little  to- 
wards ameliorating  the  condition  of  the  natives. 
The  natural  disposition,  however,  of  the  Uskees, 
gypsy-like,  makes  them  appear  to  conform  to  the 
manners  and  religion  of  their  masters ;  yet  little 
less  doubt  of  their  insincerity  exists.  It  must  be  ac- 
knowledged that  the  conduct  of  many  of  the  Danes 
sent  thither,  as  it  is  said,  for  their  crimes,  is  not  well 
calculated  to  reconcile  them  to  European  senti- 
ments. They  are,  if  spoiled  by  such  corrupt  exam- 
ple, looked  upon  as  untractable ;  and  a  sensible 
writer,  descanting  on  their  unwillingness  to  become 
converted,  represents  them  as  hstening  very  atten- 
tively to  christian  exhortation ;  and  when  asked  if 
they  understood  all  that  had  been  said  to  them, 
their  answer  was  childishly  affirmative,  when  it  was 
evident  they  did  not  comprehend  or  retain  a  tittle  of 


POLAR   REGION^.  107 

the  subject.  They  are  such  adepts  in  disguising  or 
suppressing  their  passions,  that  one  might  take  them 
for  Stoics.  They  never  interrupt  any  person  while 
speaking ;  and  their  reply  is  sensible  and  brief,  and 
marked  with  the  most  respectful  deference  to  the 
person  they  address,  provided  he  commands  their 
good  opinion. 

The  Danish  convicts  and  settlers  have  intermar- 
ried with  the  Uskee  women,  and  a  mixed  genera- 
tion is  nov/  remarkably  predominant  where  the 
government  has  been  fixed.  Some  of  the  children 
of  the  Europeans  by  the  Uskee  women  are  quite 
fair,  but  all  have  that  remarkable  attachment  to 
their  country  which  the  genuine  natives  evince. 

In  their  intercourse  with  strangers,  they  are  at 
first  shy  and  cautious,  but  firm  in  their  manners. 
That  reserve  soon  disappears  when  they  are  kind-- 
ly  treated,  and  they  freely  communicate  their  know^- 
ledge  of  any  thing  asked  them.  Their  experience 
extending  but  Httle  beyond  the  arts  befitting  the  ne- 
cessary occupations  of  their  own  peculiar  mode  of 
life,  makes  their  information  of  inconsiderable  value 
when  applied  to  the  greater  concerns  of  European 
commerce.  They  appear  sensible  of  their  deficien- 
cy in  this  respect,  and  when  they  reply  to  the  in- 
quiries of  the  whale  hunters,  it  is  always  frankly,  but 
diffidently.  Any  effort  to  extend  their  experience 
beyond  the  contracted  circle  of  their  wants,  is  at- 
tended with  such  a  train  of  imaginary  difficulties, 
that  few,  if  any  of  them  have  ever  ventured  out  of 
the  footsteps  of  their  forefathers.  The  Uskee  jacket, 
trowsers,  boots,  darts  and  canoe  (for  they  use  this 


108  POLAR    REGIONS. 

name  for  a  boat  indiscriminately  with  kaiak)  are 
identically  the  same  as  they  were  observed  more 
than  eight  hundred  years  ago. 

There  is  not,  probably,  a  nation  upon  earth  more 
remarkable  for  urbanity,  than  the  inhabitants  of 
Greenland.  Few  common  minds,  on  witnessing  the 
splendor  of  a  London  assembly,  its  luxuries,  elegance 
and  grandeur,  and,  were  it  possible,  turning  the 
eye  the  next  instant  on  the  little  patriarchal  circle 
in  an  Uskee  hut,  would  relish  the  comparison ;  yet 
to  any  one  accustomed  to  reflect,  and  to  appreciate 
the  happiness  of  mankind  comparatively,  on  the 
scale  of  necessary  wants  and  wishes,  the  lot  of  the 
apparently  wretched  Greenlander  is  far  from  being 
miserable.  In  truth,  had  European  luxury  and  its 
allurements  been  withheld,  he  would  have  still  re- 
mained in  aboriginal  simplicity  and  happiness ;  and, 
if  any  thought  now  arises  to  disturb  his  constitu- 
tional tranquillity  of  mind,  it  proceeds  from  a  re- 
flection that  he  wants  something  from  the  great 
oomiak;  (it  is  by  this  term  the  Uskee  expresses  a 
ship  ;)  and  he  will  readily  barter  the  last  article  of 
dress,  necessary  to  the  comfort  of  his  person,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  bit  of  lead,  or  some  powder  for 
his  gun,  or  a  rag  of  handkerchief  for  his  cima. 

The  articles  generally  trafficked  with  them  are 
such  as  the  sailors  find  no  longer  useful  to  their 
own  accommodation,  or  some  coarse  article  of 
dress,  of  no  value  when  compared  with  what  they 
get  in  exchange.  In  later  years,  the  arts  of  the 
European  have  taught  them  a  little  more  cunning, 
and  some  are  as  expert  now  at  making  a  bargain  as 


POLAR    REGIONS.  109 

any  of  their  visiters.  Strictly  honest  in  all  their 
dealings,  they  are  exceedingly  watchful  that  they 
be  not  cheated ;  and  he  must  indeed  be  worse  than 
savage  who  would  wrong  people  of  such  exem- 
plary integrity  as  theirs.  The  hardships  and  perils 
through  which  they  must  toil  in  order  to  procure 
material  articles  for  barter,  should  also  induce  a 
humane  consideration  of  their  condition,  and  pro- 
tect them  from  injustice.  Some  serious  grounds, 
therefore,  of  disUke  towards  the  Danish  sovereignty 
must  exist,  before  these  people,  strongly  guided  by 
a  sense  of  right  and  wrong,  could  be  brought  to  ex- 
press an  abhorrence  of  their  master's  principles  ; 
and  this  must  be  either  by  the  Danes  exacting  from 
their  industry  a  demand  in  the  shape  of  tax  for  the 
protection  afforded  them,  or  for  the  support  of  the 
missionaries,  or  ejse  by  trucking  with  them  on  terms 
obviously  disadvantageous  to  the  natives.  On  ei- 
ther point,  the  Uskee  feels  his  superiority  in  princi- 
ple over  his  master,  and  is  not  to  be  reconciled  to 
his  views. 

The  original  form  of  society  still  exists  among 
the  Uskees  in  all  its  simplicity.  Though  a  nation 
as  distinctly  defined  as  any  other  in  the  world,  yet 
they  are  such  only  in  identity  of  character.  Their 
institutions  are  truly  patriarchal,  without  the  danger 
of  dissolution  from  the  extravagant  acquisition  of 
property.  While  in  the  early  government  of  pa- 
triarchal form,  the  gradual  accession  of  landed  pro- 
perty and  flocks  of  cattle  and  servants,  led  to  the 
despotism  of  some  wealthier  lord  ;  and  many,  shar- 
10 


110  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ing  such  abundance  in  common,  desired  a  chief 
who  should  maintain  equal  justice, — these  petty  gov- 
ernments became    gradually  absorbed  into  larger 
ones,  and  empires  have  been  formed,  and  revolu- 
tions have  given  rise  to  ruinous   and  wasting  wars. 
In  the  absence  of  such  mutations,  the  simple  Uskee, 
content  in  his  kaiak,  phes  his  paddle  in  unmolested 
waters,  kills  his  seals  and  wild  birds,  or  transfixes  his 
nimble  game,  and  in  the  bosom  of  his  small  rejoicing 
family  enjoys  his  good  fortune,  and  trains  his  son  to 
imitate  the  prowess  and  skill  of  his  sire.     Living  in  a 
manner  that  requires  little  from  the  neighbouring 
soil,  he  farms  not,  he  tills  not,  nor  concerns  himself 
in  the  slightest  degree  about  the  right  of  property 
in  the  territory  in  which  he  resides :  he  is  conse- 
quently free  from  the  broils  which  such  species  of 
property  is  likely  to  create.     Give  him  his  fishing 
waters,  and  leave  him  undisturbed,  ^  he  takes  no 
thought  for  the  morrow  ! ' 

The  father  of  a  family  is  to  all  intents,  absolute 
chief;  but  still  his  authority  is  exercised  with  the 
mildest  sway.  To  chide  for  a  fault  is  considered 
the  severest  punishment.  Blows  are  never  resort- 
ed to.  It  is  considered  a  savage  and  barbarous  act 
to  strike  an  Uskee,  and  is  looked  on  with  abhor- 
rence. The  women  are  treated  kindly,  but  are  re- 
garded as  servants,  doing  all  the  labors  of  the 
house,  except  such  parts  as  the  men  think  their 
superior  understanding  only  can  be  equal  to.  Do- 
mestic harmony  is  seldom  known  to  be  disturbed, 
unless  when,  in  the  absence  of  the  men,  some  dowager 


POLAR    REGIONS.  Ill 

mother  exercises  her  peevishness  upon  her  daugh- 
ter-in-law, especially  if  the  latter  have  not  the  good 
fortune  to  have  been  the  mother  of  a  son ;  for  on 
the  birth  of  male  children  they  think  the  existence 
of  their  nation  rests. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Occupations  of  the  Uskees. — Use  made  of  the  Whale. — Manner  of  spending 
the  Winter. — Manner  of  spending  the  Summer. — Manner  of  catching 
Seals. — Enjoyments  of  the  Uskees. — Language. 

It  would  be  strange  indeed,  if  the  Uskees  were  not 
a  contented  people,  so  few  are  their  wants.  The 
men  are  the  carpenters,  the  women  are  the  tailors, 
shoemakers,  housS-masons,  and  cooks,  the  last  more 
particularly,  as  the  men,  on  returning  with  gamio, 
are  no  sooner  disengaged  from  their  kaiaks  than  all 
concern  on  their  part  ceases.  This  arises  very 
probably  from  the  excessive  fatigue  to  which  they 
are  exposed,  rather  than  to  any  indifference  towards 
their  women.  The  women's  labor  then  commen- 
ces. They  have  to  haul  the  seals  ashore,  and  con- 
vey to  the  tent  or  hut  the  different  animals  taken. 
Their  first  concern  is  to  draw  a  httle  blood  from 
the  seal,  (which,  after  being  killed,  is  stanched 
for  that  purpose)  and  present  it  to  the  men,  by  way 
of  cordial  after  their  fatigue.  Then,  having  pro- 
vided the  men  with  dry  clothes,  they  proceed  to 


112  POLAR    REGIONS. 

flay  and  cut  up  the  spoil.  Seal's  flesh  forms  their 
chief  support ;  and  they  employ  various  modes  of 
preserving  it  for  future  use.  The  most  common  is 
to  cut  it  into  thin  slips,  and  so  dry  it  over  a  line  in 
the  interior  of  their  hut.  The  blubber  is  most  care- 
fully preserved,  as  being  convertible  to  almost  every 
domestic  comfort,  more  precious  by  far  to  them, 
than  wine  is  to  others.  Oil  is  the  luxury  of  their 
meals,  their  bread  being  nothing  more  than  the 
dried  muscular  part  of  the  seals  or  of  birds. 

Such  a  representation  of  life  would  form  little  in- 
ducement to  an  European  to  exchange  his  comfoj^ts 
for  it.  The  picture  is  to  refined  appetites  truly  dis- 
gusting ;  and  the  horrible  smell  of  their  huts,  per- 
sons, and  almost  every  article  belonging  to  them 
is  intolerable  to  the  coarsest.  Even  the  sailor, 
accustomed  to  the  atmosphere  of  a  whale-ship, 
has  been  frequently  known  to  nauseate  the  inside 
of  a  Greenlander's  hut.  These  poor  creatures 
smile  at  such  squeamishness,  and  kindly  excuse 
the  want  of  politeness  in  the  stranger,  as  he  could 
not  possibly  know  any  thing  better. 

The  whale,  wounded,  and  carrying  in  his  huge 
body  the  instrument  of  destruction,  very  often 
in  his  anguish  runs  himself  ashore,  or  into  some 
creek  among  the  rocks,  and  there  lingering  dies. 
Such  a  chance  is  an  unexpected  blessing,  if  discov- 
ered ;  and  any  person  who  has  ever  winded  a  dead 
whale  must  know  that  an  occurrence  of  that  kind 
is  not  likely  to  remain  long  a  secret.  Every  hut  is 
then  emptied  to  take  advantage  of  the  fortunate 


POLAR    REGIONS.  113 

occasion.  If  any  one  is  within  reach  of  the  good 
tidings,  he  is  immediately  invited,  and  it  is  easy  to 
imagine  what  a  scene  ensues.  Men,  women,  and 
children,  with  every  edged  instrument  at  command, 
are  in  full  employment.  But  in  such  eagerness, 
wounds  are  often  inflicted  by  accident,  and  such 
are  never  resented.  The  blubber  is  carefully  stor- 
ed, that  it  may  subside  into  oil ;  the  muscular  parts 
are  removed  for  future  provision,  and  nothing  can 
be  of  coarser  texture,  yet  still  they  relish  it,  and  are 
thankful  for  the  blessing.  The  tendons  are  also 
carefully  preserved,  to  be  appropriated  as  cordage, 
thread,  lines,  and  for  various  other  purposes ;  and 
in  the  whalebone  they  have  sufficient  for  their  own 
private  necessities,  and  for  the  demands  of  the 
Danes. 

In  winter  time  W^hey-retire  further  from  the  sea 
than  they  have  been  in  the  summer  months,  and 
in  their  huts  or  winter  houses  generally  spend 
the  interval  between  the  latter  end  of  October  and 
the  middle  of  March  in  preparing  their  fishing 
tackle,  while  the  women  are  busily  engaged  in  re- 
pairing the  kaiak,  or  sewing  dresses  for  the  men. 
On  such  occasions  the  children  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  learning  the  arts  peculiar  to  their  sex,  and 
scarcely  any  other  time  is  given  for  their  educa- 
tion. 

As  soon  as  the  returning  sun  annoujices  the  ap- 
proach of  summer,  all  is  bustle  and  activity.     The 
materials  for  the  summer  huts  are  got  in  readiness, 
and  the  whole  household,  consisting  sometimes  of 
10* 


114  POLAR    REGIONS. 

five  or  six  families,  moves  downwards  to  the  fishing 
place,  which  is  generally  a  low  island  with  a  sloping 
beach  looking  towards  the  south,  for  the  ease  and 
convenience  of  launching  the  boats  or  drawing  the 
seals  ashore.  They  are  not  confined  to  any  par- 
ticular spot  for  the  summer.  Unless  abundance  of 
seals  be  seen,  they  generally  shift  to  some  other 
station,  which  in  the  course  of  former  seasons  they 
have  observed  as  more  fit,  or  as  they  may  have  in- 
formation from  others  of  their  countrymen. 

The  Greenlander  is  very  vain  of  his  accomplish- 
ments ;  and  viewing  them,  as  he  does,  as  the  per- 
fection of  human  art,  he  pities  the  ignorance  of 
any  one  who  is  unable  to  manage  a  kaiak,  or  use 
the  hand-board  in  discharging  the  spear  or  lighter 
dart.  It  is  dangerous  for  an  European  to  venture 
into  one  of  these  canoes,  as  lie  is^lmost  certain  of 
being  instantly  upset ;  in  which  case  the  buoyancy 
of  the  little  bark  would  certainly  keep  him  immers- 
ed, and  drown  him. 

The  seal,  mischievous  in  the  extreme  towards 
every  creature  weaker  than  himself,  entertains  a 
sovereign  dread  of  the  Uskees,  and  flies  from  every 
quarter  where  he  discovers  a  kaiak ;  but  his  precau- 
tion seldom  avails.  The  instant  a  seal  is  seen  by 
a  Greenlander,  he  whispers  '  Pussee  ! '  (seal)  along 
the  surface  of  the  water  to  the  nearest  of  his  com- 
panions, wno  telegraphs  the  signal  until  all  the  boats 
are  engaged  in  the  chase,  and  it  is  seldom  possi- 
ble for  their  prey  to  escape.  The  seal  is  impetu- 
ous in  disposition,  and,  having  once  observed  his 


POLAR   REGIONS.  115 

pursuers,  he  dives  repeatedly,  and  in  different  di- 
rections, to  confound  them  ;  but  becomes  at  length 
so  short-breathed  by  his  hurry,  that  he  cannot  re- 
main long  out  of  sight;  and  as  the  Uskees  are 
around  at  various  points  watching  the  favorable 
moment,  one  of  them  paddles  silently  in  his  rear, 
using  the  paddle  with  one  hand,  while  with  the 
other  he  is  getting  his  tackle  in  order ;  and  having 
advanced  near  enough,  for  he  is  sure  to  measure 
the  distance  with  accuracy,  he  flings  the  dart,  and 
never  fails  to  strike.  The  seal,  terrified  and  wound- 
ed, dives  in  the  greatest  terror ;  but  a  float  being 
attached  to  the  dart  by  a  leathern  line,  he  is  soon 
forced  up  again,  and  despatched.  They  are  then 
careful  to  stanch  the  wounds,  to  save  as  much 
as  possible,  and  to  distend  the  body,  by  blowing 
into  the  cellular  partj^ias  butchers  sometimes  are 
used  to  do,  in  order  to  riiake  the  body  of  the  ani- 
mal buoyant ;  otherwise  it  would  go  to  the  bottom 
as  soon  as  dead. 

Seal  hunting,  being  their  most  profitable  as  well 
as  most  dangerous  pursuit,  is  looked  upon  as  the 
perfection  of  manly  achievement.  It  is  the  sum 
of  praise  to  which  every  man  aspires;  and  it  is 
chiefly  through  the  fame  of  having  killed  such  a 
number  of  seals  that  any  can  aim  at  preeminence. 
The  unmarried  women  listen  with  eagerness  when 
such  great  exploits  are  recounted ;  and  a  descrip- 
tion of  a  seal  hunt  given,  with  proper  emphasis  and 
gesture,  by  the  fortunate  hunter,  is  sure  to  obtain 
general   approbation.     The  applause   which  they 


116  POLAR    REGIONS. 

bestow  is  not  however  clamorous,  but  tinctured 
wdth  that  decency  and  reserve  for  which  they  are 
remarkable.  It  is  on  such  occasions  that  love- 
matches  are  usually  set  on  foot ;  and  the  successful 
candidate  for  the  lady's  hand  must  rely  on  the 
credit  he  has  obtained  by  the  number  of  seals  he 
has  taken. 

There  is  very  great  danger  to  the  Greenlander 
in  the  seal  hunt.  Should  the  seal  be  little  exhaust- 
ed in  the  chase,  he  often  turns  on  his  adversary, 
seizes  on  his  kaiak,  and  with  his  sharp  teeth  pierces 
the  flimsy  cover,  when  no  alternative  remains  to 
the  poor  Uskee  but  death,  as  his  kaiak  will  sink, 
and  take  him  down.  This  must  be  certain ;  as  the 
others  can  offer  no  assistance,  except  to  allow  him 
to  hold  by # the  end  of  another  boat,  to  the  great 
risk  of  him  who  navigates  it.  Except  in  the  case 
of  father  and  son,  such  accommodation  is  very  rare, 
as  every  man  on  such  emergency  naturally  thinks 
of  the  value  of  his  life  to  his  own  family.  Much 
danger  is  also  to  be  apprehended  if  the  line  get 
foul  of  the  paddle,  or  arm,  or  even  neck  of  the 
hunter,  when  the  seal  dives  so  suddenly  on  being 
wounded.  It  is  then  that  the  Uskee  displays  his 
skill  and  expertness.  If  upset,  he  raises  himself 
again  in  his  kaiak,  by  a  dexterous  management  of 
his  paddle. 

When  assembled  at  a  merry-making  or  at  a  mar- 
riage-feast, they  are  cheerful  and  joyous  in  the 
highest  degree  ;  but  none  of  that  boisterous  rejoic- 
ing, which  is  considered  the  test  of  enjoyment  in 


POLAR    REGIONS.  117 

other  places,  is  here  known.  The  dance  is  practis- 
ed in  lively  and  tolerably  well  executed  movements ; 
and  some  of  the  Danes  having  introduced  the  fiddle 
among  them,  they  contrive  to  make  out  a  pleasing 
entertainment.  The  men  talk  over  their  exploits 
in  seal  hunting,  and  the  boys  are  always  attentive  and 
silent  hearers.  Sometimes  the  song  is  raised,  when 
one  who  leads  the  chorus  repeats  a  line,  and  this  is 
immediately  succeeded  by  all  the  rest  joining  in  a 
short  accompaniment  of  no  particular  meaning. 

They  are  extremely  hospitable,  particularly  to 
any  of  their  own  nation  w^ho  happen  to  pass  near 
their  abode,  in  removing  from  one  place  to  another 
in  quest  of  seals.  A  brotherly  invitation  is  instant- 
ly given,  and  the  utmost  attention  is  paid  to  the 
stranger,  who  freely  imparts  his  experience  of  the 
season,  and  receives  iu  return  such  information  as 
he  requires.  It  is  this  interchange  of  good  offices 
which  makes  them  set  so  high  a  value  on  each 
other. 

The  language  of  the  Greenlanders  or  Uskees  is 
very  general.  Like  the  Norwegians,  they  pro- 
nounce the  letter  R  in  their  throat,  so  that  it  is  not 
easy  to  distinguish  many  of  their  tones.  They  pro- 
nounce their  words  with  great  fluency ;  and  their 
accents  seem  to  be  numerous,  by  the  peculiar  stress 
with  which  they  deliver  certain  sounds.  There 
are  many  consonants  which  they  never  use  at  the 
beginning  of  words,  as  they  prefer  commencing 
generally  with  a  vowel.  Even  such  words  of  other 
languages  as  they  are  desired  to  repeat,  they  dress 


118  POLAR    REGIONS. 

in  their  own  sounds ;  and  if  it  begin  with  any  of 
the  proscribed  letters,  such  is  usually  omitted,  as 
was  observed  in  the  term  Skraelling,  which  they 
converted  into  Karalit.  They  haye  no  writing ; 
though  some  of  the  children  of  the  Danish  convicts 
have  been  taught  to  write.  The  Uskees  think  it  so 
much  time  thrown  away  from  the  more  important 
concern  of  learning  the  management  of  the  kaiak 
and  dart.  They  usually  reckon  on  their  fingers,  and 
seldom  go  beyond  ten  in  counting ;  though  others 
say  they  have  been  known  to  reckon  as  high  as 
twenty.  Their  conveniences  of  hfe  being  so  few, 
makes  further  numbering  unnecessary. 


CAPTAIN    PARRY'S 
FIRST   VOYAGE   OF   DISCOVERY, 


CHAPTER    I. 


Object  of  Parry's  First  Voyage. — Equipment  of  the  Expedition. — Passage  up 
Davis'  Straits. — Embarrassment  in  the  Ice. 

As  that  part  of  Greenland  or  America,  lying  imme- 
diately west  and  northwest  of  Baffin's  Bay,  is  only 
known  by  the  late  discoveries  of  Captain  Parry,  a 
continuous  account  of  his  voyages  will,  probably, 
be  the  best  method  of  describing  it  that  we  can 
adopt. 

Lieutenant  Parry*  was  appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  his  Majesty's  ship  Hecla,  a  bomb  of  375 
tons,  on  the  16th  of  January,  1819;  and  the  Gri- 
per, gun  brig,  180  tons,  commissioned  by  Lieut. 
Matthew  Liddon,  was  at  the  same  time  directed  to 
put  herself  under  his  orders.  The  object  of  the 
expedition  was  to  attempt  the  discovery  of  a  North- 
West  Passage  into  the  Pacific.  On  board  Capt. 
Parry's  ship  was  an  astronomer,  Capt.  Edw.  Sa- 

*  Then  a  Lieutenant ;  for  convenience  we  shall  call  him  Captain, 


120  POLAR    REGIONS. 

bine,  R.  A.  and  a  competent  number  of  officers,  a 
Greenland  master,  and  a  Greenland  mate.  Every 
individual  engaged  in  the  expedition  was  to  receive 
double  the  ordinary  pay  of  his  Majesty's  navy. 
The  vessels  were  rigged  after  the  manner  of  a 
barque,  as  being  the  most  convenient  among  the  ice, 
and  requiring  the  smallest  number  of  men  to  work 
them.  They  were  furnished  with  provisions  and 
stores  for  two  years ;  in  addition  to  which,  there 
was  a  large  supply  of  fresh  meats  and  soups  pre- 
served in  tin  cases,  essence  of  malt  and  hops,  es- 
sence of  spruce,  and  other  extra  stores,  adapted  to 
cold  climates  and  a  long  voyage.  The  ships  were 
ballasted  entirely  with  coals;  an  abundance  of 
warm  clothing  was  allowed,  a  wolf-skin  blanket  be- 
ing supplied  to  each  officer  and  man,  besides  a 
housing-cloth,  similar  to  that  with  which  wagons 
are  usually  covered,  to  make  a  sort  of  tent  on 
board.  Various  kinds  of  presents  were  furnished 
to  secure  the  friendship  of  the  natives,  and  a  num- 
ber of  valuable  astronomical  and  philosophical  in- 
struments were  put  on  board  each  ship. 

Capt.  Parry  had  served  in  the  former  expedition 
under  Capt.  Ross,  and  was  advantageously  known 
to  the  Board  of  Admiralty  for  his  skill  in  his  pro- 
fession and  his  peculiar  qualifications  for  such  ser- 
vice. He  was  to  pass,  if  possible,  through  Lancas- 
ter's Sound  to  Behring's  Strait.  In  case  of  success, 
he  was  to  proceed  to  Kamtschatka,  and  thence 
to  forward  an  official  account  of  his  voyage  to  Eng- 
land, through  Siberia.  Thence  the  Hecla  and  Gri- 
per were  to  return  to  England  round  Cape  Horn. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  121 

Other  specific  instructions  were  given,  but  much 
was  left  to  his  discretion.  He  was  expected  to  co- 
operate with  Captain  Franklin,  who  was  at  the 
same  time  sent  to  the  mouth  of  Coppermine  River, 
in  effecting  the  purpose  of  his  voyage. 

Captain  Parry  sailed  from  England  in  the  begin- 
ning of  May,  and  on  the  fifteenth  of  June  he  came 
in  sight  of  Cape  Farewell.  He  proceeded  up  the 
Strait  of  Davis,  and  for  three  days  found  the  ice 
close  packed^  Passing  through  ice  fields  and  among 
icebergs,  he  approached  the  western  shore.  On 
the  twentyfifth,  the  ice  closed  round  the  ships  and 
arrested  their  progress.  As  far  as  the  eye  might 
reach  from  the  mast-head,  nothing  could  be  seen  to 
the  westward  but  one  unbroken  mass  of  ice. 

It  is  usual  for  whales  to  descend  head  foremost, 
displaying  their  enormous  tails  in  the  air ;  but  here 
the  ice  was  too  close  to  permit  the  first  one  seen 
on  the  voyage  to  perform  this  feat,  and  he  went 
down  tail  first,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  Green- 
land sailors. 

As  long  as  the  wind  continued  to  blow  strong 
towards  the  ice,  so  as  to  keep  it  close,  the  ships  lay 
securely  sheltered  from  the  sea ;  but  at  nine  in  the 
evening,  when  it  veered  a  Uttle  to  the  westward, 
the  ice  became  more  slack,  and  they  began  to  feel 
the  effects  of  the  swell  which  was  thus  admitted 
from  without :  each  roll  of  the  sea  forced  the  heavy 
masses  of  ice  against  the  rudder  and  counter  with 
such  violence  as  would  have  greatly  endangered  a 
ship  built  in  the  ordinary  way :  strengthened  as 
these  were,  however,  they  escaped  without  damage. 
11 


122  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Frequent  endeavours  were  made  to  heave  the 
heads  of  the  ships  round,  in  order  that  they  might 
receive  the  heaviest  pressure  on  their  bows,  but 
every  attempt  proved  unsuccessful,  and  they  re- 
mained in  the  same  unpleasant  situation  during  the 
whole  of  the  28th. 

While  in  this  state,  a  large  white  bear  came  near 
the  Griper,  and  was  killed  by  her  people,  but  he 
sunk  between  the  pieces  of  ice.  This  animal  had, 
probably,  been  attracted  by  the  smell  of  some  red 
herrings  which  the  men  were  frying  at  the  time. 
It  is  a  common  practice  with  the  Greenland  sailors 
to  take  advantage  of  the  strong  sense  of  smelling 
which  these  creatures  possess,  by  enticing  them 
near  the  ships  in  this  manner. 

The  swell  had  somewhat  subsided  on  the  29th, 
but  the  ships  remained  firmly  fixed  in  the  ice  as  be- 
fore. In  the  course  of  the  day  they  saw  land  bear- 
ing N.  69""  W.  about  thirteen  leagues  distant,  ap- 
pearing from  the  mast-head  like  a  group  of  islands, 
and  situated  near  to  the  entrance  of  Cumberland 
Strait ;  the  soundings  were  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  fathoms ;  the  temperature  of  the  sea  at  that 
depth  30° ;  that  of  the  surface  being  the  same  ;  and 
of  the  air  34".  On  the  30th,  the  ice  began  to  slack- 
en a  little  more  about  the  ships;  and,  after  two 
hours'  heaving  with  a  hawser  brought  on  each  bow 
to  the  capstan  and  windlass,  they  succeeded  in 
moving  the  Hecla  about  her  own  length  to  the  east- 
ward, where  alone  any  clear  sea  was  visible.  The 
ice  continuing  to  open  still  more  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  they  were  at  length  enabled  to  get  both 


POLAR   REGIONS.  123 

ships  into  open  water,  after  eight  hours'  incessant 
labor. 

Their  first  attempt  to  approach  the  western 
coast  having  thus  failed,  Capt.  Parry  consulted  the 
Greenland  Masters,  as  to  what  were  the  most  like- 
ly means  to  be  adopted  for  effecting  this  object. 
Mr  AHison  thought  it  would  be  advisable  to  run 
a  degree  or  two  back  again  to  the  southward ;  while 
Mr  Fife  was  of  opinion,  that  it  might  be  attempted, 
with  a  better  chance  of  success,  about  the  latitude 
of  Mount  Raleigh,  which  forms  one  side  of  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  Davis'  Strait.  Capt.  Parry  determin- 
ed on  the  latter. 

They  kept  close  to  the  edge  of  the  pack  on  the 
1st  and  2nd  of  July,  without  finding  any  opening  in 
it.     On  the  third  they  crossed  the  Arctic  circle. 

Towards  midnight,  the  wind  having  shifted  to 
the  southwest,  and  moderated,  another  extensive 
chain  of  very  large  icebergs  appeared  to  the  north- 
ward: as  they  approached  them,  the  wind  died 
away,  and  the  ships'  heads  were  kept  to  the  north- 
ward, only  by  the  steerage  way  given  to  them  by  a 
heavy  southerly  swell,  which,  dashing  the  loose  ice 
with  tremendous  force  against  the  bergs,  some- 
times raised  a  white  spray  over  the  latter  to  the 
height  of  more  than  a  hundred  feet,  and  being 
accompanied  with  a  loud  noise,  exactly  resembling 
the  roar  of  distant  thunder,  presented  a  scene  at 
once  subhme  and  terrific.  They  could  find  no 
bottom  near  these  icebergs  with  one  hundred  and 
ten  fathoms  of  line. 

At  four,  A.  M.  on  the  4th,  they  came  to  a  quanti- 


124  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ty  of  loose  ice,  which  lay  straggling  among  the 
bergs ;  and  as  there  was  a  light  breeze  from  the 
southward,  and  they  were  anxious  to  avoid,  if  pos- 
sible, the  necessity  of  going  to  the  eastward,  they 
pushed  the  Hecla  into  the  ice,  in  the  hope  of  being 
able  to  make  way  through  it.  They  had  scarcely 
done  so,  however,  before  it  fell  calm ;  when  the 
ship  became  perfectly  unmanageable,  and  was  for 
some  time  at  the  mercy  of  the  swell,  which  drifted 
her  fast  towards  the  bergs.  All  the  boats  were 
immediately  sent  a-head  to  tow ;  and  the  Griper's 
signal  was  made,  not  to  enter  the  ice.  After  two 
hours  hard  pulling,  they  succeeded  in  getting  the 
Hecla  back  again  into  clear  water,  and  to  a  suffi- 
cient distance  from  the  icebergs,  which  it  is  very 
dangerous  to  approach  when  there  is  a  swell.  At 
noon  they  were  in  lat.  66""  50'  47",  long.  57°  07'  56", 
being  near  the  middle  of  the  narrowest  part  of 
Davis'  Strait,  which  is  here  not  more  than  fifty 
leagues  across. 

On  the  5th,  it  was  necessary  to  pass  through 
some  heavy  streams  of  ice,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
loss  of  time  by  going  round  to  the  eastward.  On 
this,  as  on  many  other  occasions,  the  advantage 
possessed  by  a  ship  of  considerable  weight  in  the 
water,  in  separating  the  heavy  masses  of  ice,  was 
very  apparent.  In  some  of  the  streams,  through 
which  the  Hecla  passed,  a  vessel  of  a  hundred  tons 
less  burthen  must  have  been  immoveably  beset. 
The  Griper  was  on  this,  and  many  other  occasions, 
only  enabled  to  follow  the  Hecla  by  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  openings  made  by  the  latter. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  125 

A  herd  of  walrusses  being  seen  lying  on  a  piece 
of  ice,  a  boat  succeeded  in  killing  one  of  them. 
These  animals  usually  lie  huddled  together,  like 
pigs,  one  over  the  other,  and  are  so  stupidly  tame, 
as  to  allow  a  boat  to  approach  them,  within  a  few 
yards,  without  moving.  When,  at  length,  they  are 
disturbed,  they  dash  into  the  water  in  great  con- 
fusion. It  may  be  worth  remarking,  as  a  proof 
how  tenacious  the  walrus  sometimes  is  of  life,  that 
the  animal  killed  strugojled  violently  for  ten  minutes 
after  it  was  struck,  and  towed  the  boat  twenty  or 
thirty  yards,  after  which  the  iron  of  the  harpoon 
broke ;  and  yet  it  was  found,  on  examination,  that 
the  iron  barb  had  penetrated  both  auricles  of  the 
heart.  A  quantity  of  the  blubber  was  put  into 
casks,  as  a  winter's  supply  of  lamp-oil. 

The  ice  was  so  compact  that  it  was  impossible 
to  penetrate  to  the  westward,  and  nothing  remained 
to  be  done,  but  to  make  the  best  way  they  could,  by 
beating  to  the  northward  along  the  edge  of  the 
p^ck,  until  on  the  10th  a  thick  fog  came  on,  which 
made  great  caution  necessary  in  sailing,  there  being 
a  great  many  icebergs  near.  There  is,  however, 
even  in  the  thickest  fog,  a  strong  reflection  of  hght 
from  these  immense  bodies  of  ice,  which,  with  an 
attentive  look-out,  is  generally  visible  at  a  suflScient 
distance  to  enable  the  navigator,  if  in  smooth  water, 
to  avoid  coming  in  contact  with  them. 

A  large  bear  being  seen  on  a  piece  of  ice,  near 

which  they  were  passing,  a  boat  was  despatched  in 

pursuit,  and  the  people  succeeded  in  killing  and 

towing  it  on  board.     As  these  animals  sink  imme- 

11* 


126  POLAR    REGIONS. 

diately  on  being  mortally  wounded,  some  dexterity 
is  requisite  to  secure  them,  by  first  throwing  a  rope 
over  the  neck,  at  which  many  of  the  Greenland 
seamen  are  remarkably  expert.  It  is  customary 
for  the  boats  of  the  whalers  to  have  two  or  three 
lines  coiled  in  them,  which  not  only  gives  them 
great  stabiHty,  but,  with  good  management,  makes 
it  difficult  for  a  bear,  when  swimming,  to  put  his 
paw  upon  the  gunwale,  which  they  generally  en- 
deavor to  do.  A  boarding-pike  is  the  most  useful 
weapon  for  this  purpose.  The  lance  used  by  the 
whalers  will  not  easily  penetrate  the  skin,  and  a 
musket  ball,  except  when  very  close,  is  scarcely 
more  efficacious. 

The  facility  with  which  a  vessel  may  sail  through 
Davis'  Strait  seems  to  depend  much  upon  the  sea- 
son at  which  the  attempt  is  made.  For  the  first 
fortnight  in  June,  it  is  seldom  practicable  to  get  be- 
yond latitude  70°.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month 
ships  may  usually  penetrate  to  the  seventyfourth 
degree.  From  that  time  to  the  end  of  August  the 
obstruction  decreases  daily,  and  it  is  probable  that  a 
vessel  entering  the  strait  on  the  first  of  July  may 
reach  a  high  latitude  without  any  detention. 

After  being  again  beset,  and  finding  a  variety  of 
difficulties  from  the  tenacity  of  the  ice,  on  the 
21st  Capt.  Parry  reached  latitude  73°.  Unwilhng  to 
increase  the  distance  from  Lancaster's  Sound  by 
proceeding  farther  north,  he  determined  to  enter  the 
ice  here.  Accordingly  he  ran  in  among  the  floes, 
heaving  the  ships  through  with  hawsers,  and  taking 
every  advantage  of  the  wind,  which  was  light.     On 


POLAR   REGIONS.  127 

the  evening  of  the  22d  the  ships  were  totally  beset, 
and  no  open  water  could  be  seen  from  the  mast 
head.  On  the  23d  a  thick  fog  came  on,  and  they 
made  fast  to  an  iceberg. 

The  weather  being  clear  in  the  morning  of  the 
25th,  and  a  few  narrow  lanes  of  water  appearing  to 
the  westward,  the  Griper  was  made  fast  astern  of 
the  Hecla ;  and  her  crew  being  sent  to  assist  in 
manning  the  Hecla's  capstan,  they  proceeded  to 
warp  the  ships  through  the  ice.  This  method, 
which  is  often  adopted  by  whalers,  has  the  ob- 
vious advantage  of  applying  the  whole  united  force 
in  separating  the  masses  of  ice  which  lie  in  the  way 
of  the  first  ship,  allowing  the  second,  or  even  the 
third,  to  follow  close  astern,  with  very  little  ob- 
struction. In  this  manner  they  advanced  about 
four  miles  to  the  westward,  by  eight,  P.  M.,  after 
eleven  hours  of  very  laborious  exertion  ;  and  having 
then  come  to  the  end  of  the  clear  water,  and  the 
weather  being  again  foggy,  the  ships  were  secured 
in  a  deep  '  bight,'  or  bay  in  a  floe,  called  by  the 
sailors  '  natural  dock.' 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  there  was 
clear  w^ater  as  far  as  they  could  see  to  the  westward, 
which,  on  account  of  the  fog,  did  not  exceed  the 
distance  of  three  hundred  yards.  They  made  sail, 
however,  and  having  groped  their  way  for  about  half 
a  mile,  found  the  ice  once  more  close  in  every  di- 
rection, except  that  in  which  they  had  been  sailing, 
obliging  them  to  make  the  ship  fast  to  a  floe.  A 
boat  was  sent  to  endeavour  to  find  a  lane  of  clear 
water  leading  to  the  westward.     She  returned  on 


128  POLAR    REGIONS. 

board  in  an  hour,  without  success,  having  with  diffi- 
culty found  her  way  to  the  ship,  by  the  muskets, 
and  other  signals. 

At  half-past  three,  P.  M.,  the  weather  cleared 
up,  and  a  few  narrow  lanes  of  water  being  seen  to 
the  westward,  every  exertion  was  immediately  made 
to  get  into  them.  On  beginning  to  heave,  however, 
they  found  that  the  'hole'  of  water  in  which  the 
Hecla  lay,  was  now  so  completely  enclosed  by  ice, 
that  no  passage  out  of  it  could  be  found.  They 
tried  every  corner,  but  to  no  purpose  ;  all  the  pow- 
er they  could  apply  being  insufficient  to  move  the 
heavy  masses  of  ice  which  had  fixed  themselves 
firmly  between  them  and  the  lanes  of  water  with- 
out. In  the  mean  time.  Lieutenant  Liddon  had 
succeeded  in  advancing  about  three  hundred  yards, 
and  had  placed  the  Griper's  bow  between  two 
heavy  floes,  which  it  was  necessary  to  separate  be- 
fore any  further  progress  could  be  made.  Both 
ships  continued  to  heave  at  their  hawsers  occasion- 
ally, as  the  ice  appeared  to  slacken  a  little,  by 
which  means  they  were  now  and  then  drawn  ahead 
a  few  inches  at  a  time,  but  did  not  advance  more 
than  half  a  dozen  yards  in  the  course  of  the  night. 
By  nearing  several  bergs  to  the  northward,  the  ice 
appeared  to  be  drifting  in  that  direction,  the  wind 
being  moderate  from  the  southward. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  129 


CHAPTER  II. 

Farther  Detention  in  the  Ice.— Whales. — Arrival  at  Lancaster's  Sound, — 
Land  about  Possession  Bay. — New  Lands  discovered. — The  Vessels  are 
again  stopped  by  the  Ice. 

About  three,  A.  M.,  Tuesday,  27th,  by  a  sudden 
motion  of  the  ice,  they  succeeded  in  getting  the 
Hecla  out  of  her  confined  situation,  and  ran  her  up 
astern  of  the  Griper.  The  clear  water  had  made 
so  much  to  the  westward,  that  a  narrow  neck  of 
ice  was  all  that  was  now  interposed  between  the 
ships  and  a  large  open  space  in  that  quarter.  Both 
ships'  companies  were,  therefore,  ordered  upon  the 
ice  to  saw  off  the  neck,  when  the  floes  suddenly 
opened,  sufficiently  to  allow  the  Griper  to  push 
through,  under  all  sail.  No  time  was  lost  in  the  at- 
tempt to  get  the  Hecla  through  after  her ;  but,  by 
one  of  those  accidents  to  which  this  navigation  is 
liable,  and  which  renders  it  so  precarious  and  un- 
certain, a  piece  of  loose  ice,  which  lay  between  the 
two  ships,  was  drawn  after  the  Griper  by  the  eddy 
produced  by  her  motion,  and  completely  blocked 
the  narrow  passage  through  which  the  Hecla  was 
about  to  follow.  Before  they  could  remove  this 
obstruction  by  hauling  it  back  out  of  the  channel,  the 
floes  were  again  pressed  together,  wedging  it  firm- 
ly and  immoveably  betwixt  them ;  the  saws  w^ere 
immediately  set  to  work,  and  used  with  great  eff*ect, 
but  it  was  not  till  eleven  o'clock  that  they  succeed- 


130  POLAR  REGIONS. 

ed,  after  seven  hours'  labor,  in  getting  the  Hecla 
into  the  lanes  of  clear  water  which  opened  more 
and  more  to  the  westward.  The  latitude  by  ac- 
count at  noon,  was  73^  05'  56%  the  longitude  60° 
22'  27". 

On  the  29th  they  had  so  much  clear  water,  that 
the  ships  had  a  very  perceptible  pitching  motion, 
which,  from  the  closeness  of  the  ice,  does  not  very 
often  occur  in  the  polar  regions,  and  which  is 
therefore  hailed  with  pleasure,  as  an  indication  of  an 
open  sea.  At  five,  P.  M.  the  swell  increased  con- 
siderably, and  as  the  wind  freshened  up  from  the 
northeast,  the  ice  gradually  disappeared ;  so  that 
by  six  o'clock  they  were  sailing  in  an  open  sea, 
perfectly  free  from  obstruction  of  any  kind. 

They  now  seemed  all  at  once  to  have  got  into 
the  head-quarters  of  the  whales.  They  were  so 
numerous  that  no  less  than  eighty  two  are  mention- 
ed in  this  day's  log.  Mr  Allison,  the  Greenland 
master,  considered  them  generally  as  large  ones, 
and  remarked,  that  a  fleet  of  whalers  might  easily 
have  obtained  a  cargo  here  in  a  few  days.  It  is  a 
common  idea  among  Greenland  fishermen,  that  the 
presence  of  ice  is  necessary  to  ensure  the  finding  of 
whales  ;  but  there  was  no  ice  in  sight  this  day, 
when  they  were  most  numerous.  In  the  afternoon 
the  wind  broke  the  Hecla  off  from  the  N.  N.  W. 
which  obliged  her  to  cast  off  the  Griper,  and  she  car- 
ried all  sail  ahead  to  make  the  land.  It  was  seen  at 
half  past  five,  P.  M.,  being  the  high  land  about  Posses- 
sion Bay,  and  at  the  same  time  several  streams  of 
loose  but  heavy  ice  came  in  sight,  which  a  fresh 


POLAR  REGIONS.  131 

breeze  was  drifting  fast  to  the  southeastward.  Lan- 
caster's Sound  was  now  open  to  the  westward,  and 
the  experience  of  a  former  voyage  had  given  Capt. 
Parry  reason  to  beUeve  that  the  two  best  months  in 
the  year  for  the  navigation  of  these  seas  were  yet 
to  come.  This  consideration,  together  with  the 
magnificent  view  of  the  lofty  By  am  Martin  Moun- 
tains, which  forcibly  recalled  to  his  mind  the  events 
of  the  preceding  year,  animated  him  with  expecta- 
tion and  hope.  If  any  proof  were  wanting  of  the 
value  of  local  knowledge  in  the  navigation  of  the 
Polar  Seas,  it  would  be  amply  furnished  by  the 
fact  of  his  having  now  reached  the  entrance  of  Sir 
James  Lancaster's  Sound  just  one  month  earlier 
than  he  had  done  in  1818,  although  he  had  then 
sailed  above  a  fortnight  sooner,  with  the  same  gen- 
eral object  in  view,  namely,  to  penetrate  to  the 
western  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay,  where  alone  the 
Northwest  Passage  was  to  be  sought  for. 

On  the  31st,  they  anchored  in  Possession  Bay, 
and  discovered  a  flag-staff  which  had  been  erected 
on  the  former  expedition. 

The  land  immediately  at  the  back  of  Possession 
Bay  rises  in  a  gentle  slope  from  the  sea,  presenting 
an  open  and  extensive  space  of  low  ground,  flanked 
by  hills  to  the  north  and  south.  In  this  valley,  and 
even  on  the  hills,  to  the  height  of  six  or  seven  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  sea,  there  was  scarcely  any 
snow,  but  the  mountains  at  the  back  were  complete- 
ly covered  with  it.  The  bed  of  the  stream,  which 
winds  along  the  valley,  is  in  many  places  several 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  in  some  parts  from  thirty 


132  POLAR  REGIONS. 

to  forty  feet  deep ;  but  the  quantity  of  water  which 
it  contained  at  this  season  was  extremely  small  in 
proportion  to  the  width  between  the  banks,  not  ex- 
ceeding forty  feet  on  an  average,  and  from  one  to 
three  feet  only  in  depth  near  the  mouth  of  the 
stream.  This  feature  is  common  to  every  part  of 
the  polar  regions ;  the  beds,  or  ravines,  being  prob- 
ably formed  by  the  annual  dissolution  of  the  snow 
during  a  long  series  of  years.  Traces  of  Esquimaux 
were  found  on  the  river,  as  well  as  the  foot-prints 
left  by  the  former  expedition. 

The  only  animals  met  with  were  a  fox,  a  raven, 
some  ring-plovers,  snow-buntings,  and  a  wild  bee. 
Several  tracks  of  bears  and  of  a  cloven-footed  ani- 
mal, probably  the  reindeer,  were  also  observed 
upon  the  moist  ground.  Three  black  whales  were 
seen  in  the  bay,  and  the  crown-bones  of  several 
others  were  lying  near  the  beach.  Considerable 
tufts  of  moss  and  of  grass  occur  in  this  valley,  prin- 
cipally in  those  parts  which  are  calculated  to  retain 
the  water  produced  by  the  melting  of  the  snow. 
Indeed,  moisture  alone  seems  necessary  to  the 
growth  of  a  variety  of  plants  which  are  found  in 
this  dreary  climate.  Mr  Fisher,  who  had  an  op- 
portunity of  examining  some  of  the  fixed  rocks, 
pronounced  them  to  consist  principally  of  basalt. 

The  tide  here  rose  about  eight  feet,  and  the 
flood  seemed  to  come  from  the  northwest. 

On  the  first  of  August,  it  having  been  found  that 
the  Griper  could  not  keep  up  with  the  Hecla,  Cap- 
tain Parry  determined  to  leave  her.  He  appointed 
the  middle  of  Lancaster's  Sound  as  a  place  of  ren- 


POLAR   REGIONS.  133 

dezvous,  and  then  crowded  all  sail  on  the  Hecla. 
In  the  evening  he  came  in  sight  of  the  northern 
shore  of  the  sound,  and  the  next  day  had  a  clear 
view  of  both  sides  of  it.  On  the  southern  side 
were  high,  peaked  mountains,  covered  with  snow, 
excepting  at  the  base,  but  on  the  northern,  the  land 
was  not  so  rugged,  or  so  high,  and  there  was  much 
less  snow.     The  sea  was  open  before  them. 

Running  up  the  sound  as  far  as  Cape  Castle- 
reagh,  more  distant  land  was  seen  to  the  westward ; 
and  between  this  land  and  Cape  Castlereagh  was 
an  inlet,  to  which  Capt.  Parry  gave  the  name  of 
Navy  Board  Inlet.  Points  of  land  were  seen  all 
round  this  inlet,  and  the  belief  is,  that  it  is  not  con- 
tinuous. In  the  meanwhile  the  land  opened  on 
the  northern  shore,  consisting  of  high  mountains, 
and  in  some  parts  of  table  land.  Several  head- 
lands were  distinctly  visible,  and  names  were  given 
to  them.  One  inlet,  through  which  Capt.  Parry 
was  of  opinion  that  a  passage  might  be  found  into 
the  Polar  Sea,  received  the  appellation  of  Croker's 
Bay. 

Having  run  due  west  nearly  out  of  sight  of  the 
Griper,  the  Hecla  hove  to  for  her  to  come  up,  in 
longitude  83**  12'  west  from  Greenw^ich  where  the 
two  shores  of  the  sound  were  yet  twentynine  miles 
apart,  and  without  the  slightest  appearance  of  land 
to  the  westward.  The  only  ice  met  consisted  of  a 
few  large  bergs,  very  much  worn  by  the  washing 
of  the  sea.  Whales  were  seen,  and  the  wind  so 
increased  that  the  top  gallant  yards  were  taken  in. 

On   the  fourth,   the   Griper  being  within  a  few 
12 


134  POLAR    REGIONS. 

miles  of  the  Hecla,  Lieut.  Beechy  discovered,  from 
the  crow's  nest,  breakers  to  the  northward.  The 
Hecla  was  instantly  rounded  to,  for  the  purpose 
of  sounding;  but  no  bottom  was  found  with  fifty 
fathoms  of  line.  The  Griper  coming  up  shortly 
after,  found  bottom  with  fortyfive  fathoms.  The 
vessels  then  bore  away  to  the  westward.  The 
cliffs  on  this  part  of  the  coast  had  a  singular  ap- 
pearance, being  horizontally  stratified,  and  having 
a  number  of  regular  projecting  masses  of  rock, 
broad  at  the  bottom,  and  pointed  at  the  top,  re- 
sembling buttresses  raised  by  art  at  equal  in- 
tervals. 

The  sea  was  here  as  clear  of  ice  as  in  any  part 
of  the  Atlantic,  and  they  began  to  flatter  them- 
selves that  they  had  indeed  entered  the  Polar  Sea, 
and  the  most  sanguine  began  to  calculate  the  dis- 
tance to  Icy  Cape,  while  their  conjectures  were  in 
some  degree  confirmed  by  the  oceanic  color  of  the 
water,  and  a  long  swell  rolling  in  from  the  south 
and  east.  Their  vexation  was,  therefore,  extreme, 
when  toward  evening  land  was  seen  ahead.  It 
proved,  however,  to  be  a  small  island.  More  land 
was  discovered  to  the  westward,  and  at  eight,  P.  M. 
they  came  to  a  stream  of  ice  extending  several 
miles  in  a  direction  parallel  to  their  course.  As 
clear  water  could  be  seen  over  it  to  the  south, 
they  hoped  it  would  prove  no  obstruction.  In  this 
they  were  disappointed ;  after  sailing  for  two  hours 
along  the  edge  of  the  ice,  they  perceived  that  it 
proceeded  from  a  compact  and  impenetrable  body 
of  floes  which  cut  off"  their  passage.     A  considera- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  135 

ble  surf  was  rolling  on  the  edge  of  the  pack,  and 
the  ships  with  some  difficulty  escaped  being  em- 
bayed.    A  second  island  was  discovered  south  of 
the   former,    and    Capt.  Parry  gave  the   name   of 
Prince  Leopold's  Isles  to  the  two.     The  weather 
was  calm  and   foggy,   and  while   it  remained   so, 
a  number  of  the  officers  and  men  amused  them- 
selves in  the  boats,  in  endeavouring  to  kill  some 
of  the  white  whales  w^hich  were  swimming  about 
the  ships  in  great  numbers ;  but  the  animals  were 
so  wary,  that  they  would  scarcely  suffer  the  boats 
to  approach  them  within  thirty  or  forty  yards,  with- 
out  diving.     Mr  Fisher  described  them  to  be  gen- 
erally from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length ;  and 
he  stated,  that  he  had  several  times   heard  them 
emit   a   shrill,   ringing   sound,   not   unlike  that   of 
musical  glasses  when  badly  played.     This  sound, 
he   further  observed,   was   most   distinctly  heard, 
when  they  happened  to  swim  directly  beneath  the 
boat,  even  when  they  were  several  feet  under  water, 
and  ceased  altogether  on  their  coming  to  the  sur- 
face.    They  saw  also,  for  the  first  time,  one  or  two 
shoals  of  narwhales,  called  by  the  sailors,  sea-uni- 
corns. 

A  breeze  springing  up,  the  ships  stood  to  the 
northward,  and  it  was  ascertained,  to  the  dissatis- 
faction of  all  on  board,  that  the  sound  or  strait 
was  closed,  excepting  in  one  place  to  the  south- 
ward, and  to  this  opening  they  directed  their  course. 
In  a  few  hours  it  became  calm  again  ;  and  the  Gri- 
per having  unfortunately  sprung  both  her  topmasts, 
Lieut.  Liddon  took  advantage  of  the  calm  weather 


136  POLAR    REGIONS. 

to  shift  them.  The  Hecla's  boats  were  at  the  same 
time  employed  in  bringing  on  board  ice,  to  be  used 
as  water;  a  measure  to  which  it  is  occasionally 
necessary  to  resort  in  these  regions,  when  no  pools 
or  ponds  are  to  be  found  upon  the  floes.  In  this 
case,  berg-ice,  when  at  hand,  is  generally  preferred ; 
but  that  of  floes,  which  is  in  fact  the  ice  of  sea- 
water,  is  also  abundantly  used  for  this  purpose : 
the  only  precaution  which  is  necessary  to  observe, 
being  that  of  allowing  the  salt-water  to  drain  off" 
before  it  is  dissolved  for  use.  One  of  the  boats 
was  upset,  by  the  fall  of  a  mass  of  ice  which  the  men 
were  breaking ;  but  fortunately  no  injury  was  sus- 
tained. 


CHAPTER   III. 

Cape  Seppings  discovered. — Near  Approach  to  the  Magnetic  Pole. — Unfa- 
vorable Position  of  the  Ice., — Appearance  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. — Port 
Bowen, 

A  BREEZE  sprung  up  from  the  N.N.W.  in  the  eve- 
ning, and  the  Griper  being  ready  to  make  sail,  they 
stood  to  the  southward.  The  land,  which  now  be- 
came visible  to  the  southeast,  discovered  that  they 
were  entering  a  large  inlet,  not  less  than  ten  leagues 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  in  the  centre  of  which  no 
land  could  be  distinguished.  The  western  shore  of 
the  inlet,  which  extended  as  far  as  they  could  see 
to  the  S.S.W.,  was  so  encumbered  with  ice,  that 
there  was  no  possibility  of  saihng  near  it.     They, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  137 

therefore,  ran  along  the  edge  of  the  ice,  between 
which  and  the  eastern  shore  there  was  a  broad  and 
open  channel,  with  the  intention  of  seeking,  in  a 
lower  latitude,  a  clearer  passage  to  the  westward 
than  that  which  they  had  just  been  obliged  to  aban- 
don. The  head  land  which  forms  the  western 
point  of  the  entrance  into  this  inlet,  they  called 
Cape  Clarence,  and  another  to  the  southeast  of  it, 
was  named  Cape  Seppings. 

Since  the  time  they  first  entered  Lancaster's 
Sound,  the  sluggishness  of  the  compasses,  as  well 
as  the  amount  of  their  irregularity  produced  by  the 
attraction  of  the  ship's  iron,  had  been  found  very 
rapidly,  though  uniformly,  to  increase,  as  they  pro- 
ceeded to  the  westward ;  so  much,  indeed,  that,  for 
the  last  two  days,  they  had  been  under  the  neces- 
sity of  giving  up  altogether  the  usual  observations 
for  determining  the  variation  of  the  needle  on  board 
the  ships.  This  irregularity  became  more  and  more 
obvious,  as  they  now  advanced  to  the  southward, 
which  rendered  it  not  improbable  that  they  were 
now  making  a  very  near  approach  to  the  magnetic 
pole.  For  the  purposes  of  navigation,  therefore, 
the  compasses  were  from  this  time  no  longer  con- 
sulted ;  and  in  a  few  days  afterwards,  the  binnacles 
were  removed,  as  useless  lumber,  from  the  deck 
to  the  carpenter's  store-room,  where  they  remained 
during  the  rest  of  the  season. 

Being  desirous  of  obtaining  all  the  magnetic  ob- 
servations they  were  able,  on  a  spot  which  appear- 
ed to  be  replete  with  interest  in  this  department  of 
science,  and  the  outer  margin  of  the  ice  consisting 
12* 


138  POLAR  REGIONS. 

entirely  of  small  loose  pieces,  which  were  not  suf- 
ficiently steady  for  using  the  dipping-needle,  they 
hauled  up  for  the  nearest  part  of  the  eastern  shore, 
for  the  purpose  of  landing  there  with  the  instru- 
ments.    They  got  in  with  it  about  noon,  having 
very  regularly  decreased  the  soundings  from  forty 
to  fifteen  and  a  half  fathoms ;  in  which  depth,  hav- 
ing tacked,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  and  a  half 
from  the  shore,  two  boats  were  despatched  from 
each  ship,  under  the  command  of  Lieuts.  Beechy 
and  Hoppner,  who,  together  with  Captain  Sabine, 
were  directed  to  make  the  necessary  observations, 
and  to  collect  whatever  specimens  of  natural  histo- 
ry the  place  might  afford.     They  landed  on  a  beach 
of  sand  and  stones,  having  passed,  at  the  distance 
of  one  mile  from  it,  several  large   masses  of  ice 
aground  in  six  to  eight  fathoms  water,  which  shoal- 
ed from  thence  gradually  in  to  the  shore.     The 
officers  describe  this  spot  as  more  barren  and  dreary 
than  any  on  which  they  had  yet  landed  in  the  arc- 
tic regions ;  there  being  scarcely  any  appearance  of 
vegetation,  except  here  and  there  a  small  tuft  of 
stunted  grass,  and  one  or  two  species  of  saxifrage 
and  poppy,  although  the  ground  was  so  swampy  in 
many  places  that  they  could  scarcely  walk  about. 
At  a  short  distance  from  the  sea,  Lieutenant  Hopp- 
ner discovered  a  large  mass  of  iron-stone,  which 
was  found  to  attract  the  magnet  very  powerfully. 
There  were  no  traces  of  inhabitants  to  be  seen  on 
this  part  of  the  coast.     Part  of  the  vertebrae  of  a 
whale  was  found  at  some  distance  from  the  beach ; 
but  this  had  probably  been  carried  there  by  bears. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  139 

the  tracks  of  which  were  visible  on  the  moist  soil. 
The  only  birds  seen  w^ere  a  few  ptarmigans  and 
snow  buntings. 

As  soon  as  the  boats  returned,  the  ships  hove  to 
the  southward,  along  the  edge  of  the  ice  which  led 
them  nearer  the  eastern  shore,  so  that  by  midnight 
the  channel  in  which  they  were  sailing  was  nar- 
rowed to  about  five  miles.  They  could  find  no 
soundings ;  the  weather  was  beautifully  serene,  and 
the  sun,  for  the  second  time  that  season,  just  dip- 
ped below  the  northern  horizon,  and  re-appeared  a 
few  minutes  after. 

A  dark  sky  to  the  southwest  had  given  them 
hopes  of  finding  a  westerly  passage  to  the  south  of 
the  ice  along  which  they  were  now  saihng ;  more 
especially  as  the  inlet  began  to  widen  considerably 
as  they  advanced  in  that  direction :  but  at  three, 
A.  M.,  on  the  morning  of  the  8th,  they  perceived  that 
the  ice  ran  close  in  with  a  point  of  land  bearing 
S.  by.  E.  from  us,  and  which  appeared  to  form  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  eastern  shore.  To  this 
extreme  point  Capt.  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Cape 
Kater.  With  the  increasing  width  of  the  inlet, 
they  had  flattered  themselves  with  increasing  hopes  ; 
but  they  soon  experienced  the  mortification  of  dis- 
appointment. The  prospect  from  the  crow's  nest 
began  to  assume  a  very  unpromising  appearance, 
the  whole  of  the  western  horizon,  from  north  round 
to  S.  by.  E.,  being  completely  covered  with  ice,  con- 
sisting of  heavy  and  extensive  floes,  beyond  which 
no  indication  of  water  was  visible  ;  instead  of  which 
there  was  a  bright  and  dazzling  ice-bhnk  extending 


140  POLAR    REGIONS. 

from  shore  to  shore.  The  western  coast  of  the 
inlet,  however,  trended  much  more  to  the  west- 
ward than  before,  and  no  land  was  visible  to  the 
southwest,  though  the  horizon  was  so  clear  in  that 
quarter,  that,  if  any  had  existed  of  moderate  height, 
it  might  have  been  easily  seen  at  this  time,  at  the 
distance  of  ten  or  twelve  leagues.  From  these 
circumstances,  the  impression  received  at  the  time 
was,  that  the  land,  both  on  the  eastern  and  west- 
ern side  of  this  inlet,  would  be  one  day  found  to 
consist  of  islands.  As  a  fresh  northerly  breeze 
was  drifting  the  ice  rapidly  towards  Cape  Kater, 
and  there  appeared  to  be  no  passage  open  between 
it  and  that  cape,  Capt.  Parry  did  not  consider  it 
prudent,  under  such  circumstances,  to  run  the  ships 
down  to  the  point,  or  to  attempt  to  force  a  passage 
through  the  ice,  and  therefore  hauled  to  the  wind, 
with  the  intention  of  examining  a  bay  which  was 
abreast  of  them,  and  to  which  the  name  of  Fitzger- 
ald Bay  was  given. 

A  boat  from  each  ship  was  prepared  to  conduct 
this  examination,  and  they  stood  in  to  drop  them 
in-shore,  but  found,  as  they  approached,  that  the 
bay  was  so  filled  with  ice,  as  to  render  it  impracti- 
cable for  any  boat  to  land.  Capt.  Parry  therefore 
determined,  as  the  season  was  fast  advancing  to  a 
close,  to  lose  no  time  in  returning  to  the  north- 
ward, in  the  hope  of  finding  the  channel  between 
Prince  Leopold's  Isles  and  Maxwell  Bay  more 
clear  of  ice  than  when  they  left  it,  in  which  case 
there  could  be  little  doubt  of  effecting  a  passage  to 
the  westward ;  whereas,  in  their  present  situation, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  141 

there  appeared  no  prospect  of  doing  so  without 
risking  the  loss  of  more  time  than  he  deemed  it 
prudent  to  spare. 

The  distance  which  they  sailed  to  the  southward 
in  this  inlet  was  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles,  Cape  Kater  being,  by  the  observations,  in  lat. 
7P  53'  30",  long.  90*^  03'  45".  As  they  returned  to 
the  northward  with  a  light  but  favorable  breeze, 
they  found  that  the  ice  had  approached  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  inlet,  leaving  a  much  narrower  channel 
than  that  by  which  they  had  entered ;  and  in  some 
places  it  stretched  completely  across  to  the  land  on 
this  side,  while  the  opposite  coast  was  still  as  inac- 
cessible as  before. 

On  the  tenth,  the  weather  was  thick,  with  snow, 
which  was  succeeded  by  rain  and  fog.  The  compass 
being  useless  and  the  sun  invisible,  they  stood  off- 
and-on,  near  the  ice  till  evening,  when  the  weather 
becoming  clear,  they  steered  northward,  keeping 
as  near  the  western  shore  as  the  ice  would  permit. 
At  eleven,  P.  M.  they  were  stopped  by  the  ice, 
which  extended  to  the  land  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  inlet.  This  part  of  the  coast  is  much  higher 
than  that  farther  to  the  southward. 

A  fog  arising,  the  ships  were  moored  to  a  floe, 
but  when  the  atmosphere  cleared,  they  found 
themselves  drifting  with  the  floe  upon  another  body 
of  ice  to  leeward.  They  therefore  cast  off",  and  beat 
to  the  northward,  which  was  attended  with  great 
difl[iculty  on  account  of  the  drift  ice,  with  which 
the  whole  inlet  was  now  covered. 

Thus  were  several  days  passed  in  contending  with 


142  POLAR  REGIONS. 

fogs,  head  winds,  and  all  the  difficulties  of  arctic 
navigation.  Neither  officers  nor  crews  lost  health 
or  spirits.  If  they  repined  at  finding  themselves  in 
such  a  situation,  it  was  not  on  account  of  the  danger 
or  labor,  but  because  the  accomphshment  of  their 
hopes  was  delayed. 

The  twelfth  being  the  birthday  of  the  Prince 
Regent  of  England,  very  naturally  suggested  the 
name  of  the  inlet  in  which  they  were  saihng,  and  by 
which  it  is  distinguished  on  the  maps.  Capt.  Parry 
thinks  that  a  passage  may  at  some  future  time  be 
found  through  it  to  Hudson's  Bay,  or  the  sea  on  the 
northern  shore  of  America. 

The  weather  was  beautifully  calm  and  clear  on 
the  13th,  when,  being  near  an  opening  in  the  east- 
ern shore,  Capt.  Parry  took  the  opportunity  of  ex- 
amining it  in  a  boat.  It  proved  to  be  a  bay,  a  mile 
wide  at  its  entrance,  and  three  miles  deep  in  an 
E.  by  S.  direction,  having  a  small  but  snug  cove  on 
the  north  side,  formed  by  an  island,  between  which 
and  the  main  land  is  a  bar  of  rocks,  Hvhich  com- 
pletely shelters  the  cove  from  sea  or  drift  ice.  The 
water  was  so  deep,  that  in  rowing  close  along  the 
shore  they  could  seldom  get  bottom  with  seven 
fathoms  of  line.  The  cliffs  on  the  south  side  of 
this  bay,  to  which  the  name  of  Port  Bo  wen  w^as 
given,  resemble,  in  many  places,  ruined  towers  and 
battlements ;  and  fragments  of  the  rocks  were  con- 
stantly falling  from  above.  At  the  head  of  the  bay 
is  an  extensive  piece  of  low,  flat  ground,  intersect- 
ed by  numerous  rivulets,  which,  uniting  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  beach,  formed  a  deep  and  rapid 


POLAR   REGIONS.  143 


stream,  near  the  mouth  of  which  he  landed.  This 
spot  was  extremely  barren,  the  ground  being  almost 
entirely  covered  with  small  pieces  of  slaty  limestone, 
among  which  no  vegetation  appeared  for  more  than 
a  mile,  to  which  distance  Mr  Ross  and  Capt.  Parry 
walked  inland,  following  the  banks  of  the  stream. 
Among  the  fragments,  they  picked  up  one  piece  of 
limestone,  on  which  was  the  impression  of  a  fossil- 
shell,  and  saw  a  great  number  of  young  black 
guillemots,  and  a  flock  of  ducks,  which  they  sup- 
posed to  be  of  the  eider  species. 

The  latitude  observed  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream 
was  73°  12'  1 1",  and  the  longitude,  by  chronometers, 
Sd""  02'  08".  From  twenty  minutes  past  eleven  till 
a  quarter  after  twelve,  the  tide  rose  by  the  shore 
six  inches,  and  the  high-water  mark  was  between 
two  and  three  feet  above  this ;  but  they  were  not 
long  enough  on  shore  to  form  a  correct  judgment 
of  the  time  at  which  high  water  takes  place.  About 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  southward  of  Port 
Bowen  is  another  small  bay,  which  they  had  not 
time  to  examine. 


144  POLAR  REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Appearance  of  the  Land  about  Jackson's  Bay. — Favorable  Prospect  to  the 
Westward. — Gascoyne's  Inlet  discovered. — Farther  Discoveries. — Bar- 
row's Strait. 

When  they  had  returned  on  board,  a  light  south- 
ern breeze  enabled  them  to  steer  towards  Prince 
Leopold's  Isles,  which  they  found  more  encumber- 
ed with  ice  than  before.  The  narwhales  were  here 
very  numerous ;  these  animals  appear  fond  of  re- 
maining with  their  backs  exposed  above  the  surface 
of  the  water,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  whale,  but 
for  a  much  longer  time ;  and  they  frequently  also 
observed  their  horns  erect,  and  quite  stationary 
for  several  minutes  together,  Three  or  four  miles 
to  the  northward  of  Port  Bowen,  they  discovered 
another  opening,  having  every  appearance  of  an 
harbour,  with  an  island  near  the  entrance.  It  was 
named  Jackson's  Bay.  The  whole  of  the  14th  was 
consumed  in  a  vain  attempt  to  find  an  opening  in 
the  ice,  which  remained  perfectly  close  and  com- 
pact, and  as  it  continued  in  the  same  state  on  the 
15th,  Capt.  Parry  went  on  shore  to  make  observa- 
tions. He  landed  in  one  of  the  numerous  valleys, 
or  ravines,  which  occur  on  this  part  of  the  coast, 
and  which,  at  a  few  miles'  distance,  very  much  re- 
semble bays,  being  bounded  by  high  hills,  which 
have  the  appearance  of  bluff  head-lands.  He  found 
the  water  very  deep  close  to  the  beach,  which  is 
composed  of  rounded  limestones,  and  on  which 


POLAR   REGIONS.  145 

there  was  no  surf;  he  then  ascended,  with  some 
difficulty,  the  hill  on  the  south  side  of  the  ravine, 
which  is  very  steep,  and  covered  with  innumerable 
detached  blocks  of  Hmestone,  some  of  which  are 
constantly  rolling  down  from  above,  and  which 
afford  a  very  insecure  footing.  From  the  top  of 
this  hill,  which  is  about  six  or  seven  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  which  commands  an 
extensive  view  to  the  westward,  the  prospect  was 
by  no  means  favorable  to  the  immediate  accomplish- 
ment of  the  enterprize.  No  water  could  be  seen 
over  the  ice  to  the  northwest,  and  a  bright  and 
dazzling  blink  covered  the  whole  space  comprised 
between  the  islands  and  the  northern  shore.  It  was  a 
satisfaction,  however,  to  find  that  no  land  appeared 
which  was  likely  to  impede  his  progress  ;  and  he 
had  been  too  much  accustomed  to  the  obstruction 
occasioned  by  ice,  and  too  well  aware  of  the  sud- 
denness with  which  that  obstruction  is  often  re- 
moved, to  be  at  all  discouraged  by  present  appear- 
ances. 

On  the  top  of  this  hill  he  deposited  a  bottle,  con- 
taining a  short  notice  of  his  visit,  and  raised  over  it 
a  small  mound  of  stones  ;  of  these  he  found  no 
want,  for  the  surface  was  covered  with  small  pieces 
of  schistose  limestone,  but  nothing  like  soil  or  vege- 
tation could  be  seen.  He  found  a  great  quantity 
of  madreporite  among  the  lime,  and  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  met  with  one  large  piece,  of  the  basaltiform 
kind.  Several  pieces  of  flint  were  also  picked  up 
on  the  beach.  The  insignificance  of  the  stream 
whJch  here  emptied  itself  into  the  sea,  formed,  as 
13 


146  POLAR  REGIONS. 

usual,  a  striking  contrast  with  the  size  of  the  bed 
through  which  it  flowed,  the  latter  being  several 
hundred  feet  deep,  and  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
wide. 

The  wind  was  light  the  next  day,  and  being 
hemmed  in  by  ice  or  land  on  all  sides,  the  ships 
scarcely  changed  their  position.  An  experiment 
w^as  made  relative  to  the  tide,  which  proved  to  flow 
from  the  southward,  thus  demonstrating  that  a  pas- 
sage exists  through  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. 

There  being  no  prospect  of  penetrating  west- 
ward in  the  neighborhood  of  Prince  Leopold's 
Isles,  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  stand  toward  the 
northern  shore  again;  and  after  beating  for  some 
hours  among  the  drift  ice,  the  ships  got  into  clear 
water  near  the  coast.  There  was  just  light  enough 
at  midnight  to  see  to  read  and  write  in  the  cabins. 

On  the  19th  a  snow-storm  came  on,  and  lasted  two 
days,  during  which  the  ships  were  beating  about, 
sometimes  in  great  danger.  This  did  not,  however, 
hinder  the  indefatigable  Parry  from  giving  his  at- 
tention to  the  survey  of  the  coast,  and  several  bays, 
capes,  and  inlets  found  place  on  the  map  in  con- 
sequence. Passing  along  the  shore,  the  ships  left 
the  ice  behind,  and  on  the  21st,  there  was  nothing 
to  impede  their  passage  westward  but  want  of 
wind.  The  narwhales  were  blowing  around  them 
in  every  direction,  and  three  walrusses  were  seen 
upon  a  piece  of  ice. 

Advancing  slowly  to  the  westward,  a  considerable 
opening  was  discovered,  which  was  named  Gas- 
coyne's  Inlet.     The  cliff's  on  this  part  of  the  coast 


POLAR   REGIONS.  147 

were  observed  to  be  of  secondary  limestone.  There 
was  little  or  no  vegetation  at  the  only  place  where 
they  had  an  opportunity  to  land ;  but  as  they  ob- 
served traces  of  reindeer,  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try cannot  be  altogether  unproductive. 

The  wind  freshening,  all  sail  was  made  to  the 
westward,   where   the  prospect  began  to  wear  a 
more    and   more    interesting  appearance.     It  was 
soon  perceived,  as  they  proceeded,   that  the  land, 
along  which  they  were  saihng,  and  which,  with  the 
exception  of  some  small  inlets,  had  appeared  to  be 
hitherto  continuous  from  Baffin's  Bay,  began  now 
to  trend  much  to  the  northward,  leaving  a  large 
open  space  between  that  coast  and  a  distant  land 
to  the  westward,  which  appeared  like  an  island,  of 
which  the  extremes  to  the  north  and  south  were 
distinctly   visible.     The   latter   was    a   remarkable 
headland,  having  at  its  extremity  two  small  table- 
hills,  somewhat   resembling  boats   turned   bottom 
upwards,  and  was  named  Cape  Hotham.     At  sun- 
set they  had  a  clear  and  extensive  view  to  the 
northward,  between  Cape  Hotham  and  the  eastern 
land.     On  the  latter  several  headlands  were  dis- 
covered and  named ;  between  the  northernmost  of 
those  called  Cape  Bowden,  and  the  island  to  the 
westward,  there  was  a  channel  of  more  than  eight 
leagues  in  width,  in  which   neither  iand  nor  ice 
could  be  seen  from  the  mast-head.     To  this  noble 
channel  Capt.  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Wellington. 
The  arrival  off  this  grand  opening  was  an  event  for 
which  they  had  long  been  looking  with  much  anx- 
iety and  impatience;  for  the  continuity  of  land  to 


148  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  northward  had  always  been  a  source  of  uneasi- 
ness to  them,  principally  from  the  possibillity  that 
it  might  take  a  turn  to  the  southward  and  unite 
with  the  coast  of  America.  The  appearance  of 
this  broad  opening,  free  from  ice,  and  of  the  land 
on  each  side  of  it,  more  especially  that  on  the  west, 
leaving  scarcely  a  doubt  of  the  latter  being  an 
island,  relieved  them  from  all  anxiety  on  that  score  ; 
and  every  one  thought  that  they  were  now  finally 
disentangled  from  the  land  which  forms  the  west- 
ern side  of  Baffin's  Bay ;  and  that,  in  fact,  they  had 
actually  entered  the  Polar  Sea.  Fully  impressed 
with  this  idea,  Capt.  Parry  gave  to  this  magnificent 
opening  the  name  of  Barrow's  Strait. 


CHAPTER   V. 

Further  Progress  of  the  Expedition. — New  Discoveries. — Bathurst's  Island. — 
Novel  Expedient  in  Navigation. 

Two  thirds  of  the  month  of  August  had  now 
elapsed,  and  they  expected  that  the  sea  would  re- 
main navigable  six  weeks  more.  The  ships  had  suf- 
fered no  injury,  they  had  plenty  of  provisions,  the 
crews  were  'in  high  health  and  spirits,  and  the  sea 
before  them,  if  not  open,  was  at  least  navigable. 
Officers  and  men  united  in  a  zealous  determination 
to  accomplish,  by  all  possible  exertions,  the  great 
object  on  which  they  were  employed. 

On  the  23d,  a  fresh  breeze  sprung  up,  and  every 


POLAR   REGIONS.  149 

appearance  indicated  an  unobstructed  passage  west- 
ward. Wellington  Channel,  to  the  northward,  was 
as  open  as  might  be,  but  as  it  lay  at  right  angles 
with  their  course,  and  there  was  still  a  large  open- 
ing south  of  Cornwallis'  Island,  Capt.  Parry  judged 
it  most  advisable  to  try  the  latter.  The  wind  was 
fair  and  the  navigators  experienced  that  exhiliration 
which  is  produced  by  rapid  motion  of  any  kind, 
heightened  by  contrast  with  the  slow  and  tedious 
progress  they  had  hitherto  made.  Their  disap- 
pointment was  the  greater,  when  in  the  midst  of 
these  favourable  appearances,  it  was  suddenly  re- 
ported from  the  crow's  nest,  that  a  body  of  ice 
barred  the  passage  between  Cornwallis'  Island  and 
the  land  to  the  southward.  As  they  approached 
this  obstacle,  after  lying  to  for  an  hour,  Lieut. 
Beechy  discovered  that  one  narrow  part  of  the 
barrier  appeared  to  consist  of  loose  pieces  of  heavy 
ice  detached  from  the  main  body,  and  that  beyond 
this  there  was  a  considerable  extent  of  open  water. 

The  Hecla  was  immediately  pushed  into  this  part 
of  the  ice,  and  after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  '  boring,' 
during  which  the  breeze  had,  as  usual,  nearly  de- 
serted her,  succeeded  in  forcing  her  way  through 
the  neck.  The  Griper  followed  in  the  opening 
which  the  Hecla  had  made,  and  they  continued 
their  course  to  the  westward,  having  once  more  a 
navigable  sea  before  them. 

They  now  remarked,  that  a  very  decided  change 

had  taken  place  in  the  character  of  the  land  to  the 

northward  since  leaving  Beechey  Island ;  the  coast 

near  the  latter  being  bold  and  precipitous  next  the 

13=^ 


150  POLAR    REGIONS. 

sea,  with  very  deep  water  close  to  it,  while  the 
shores  of  CornwalKs'  Island  rise  with  a  gradual  as- 
cent from  a  beach  which  appeared  to  be  com- 
posed of  sand.  Another  opening  in  the  southern 
shore  was  called  Cunningham  Inlet,  and  a  very  large 
one  on  the  northern  shore,  Martin's  Inlet. 

At  two,  P.  M.  having  reached  longitude  95°  67, 
they  came  to  heavy  and  extensive  floes,  which 
obliged  the  ships  to  tack,  as  there  was  no  passage 
between  them.  The  rest  of  the  afternoon  was 
passed  in  beating  to  the  northward  in  search  of  a 
passage,  but  none  was  found.  On  the  contrary,  the 
ice  was  in  contact  with  the  shore,  from  which  it 
appeared  not  to  have  been  detached  this  season. 
After  several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  force  a  pas- 
sage, they  at  last  succeeded,  by  boring  through 
several  heavy  streams.  The  ships  received  many 
severe  shocks  in  this  operation,  but  luckily  sustain- 
ed no  essential  damage,  and  at  midnight  were  en- 
abled to  pursue  their  course  to  the  westward. 

Several  low,  sandy  islands  were  observed,  to 
which,  as  usual,  names  were  given.  The  principal 
was  called  Bathurst  Island.  No  whales  or  narwhales 
had  been  seen  for  several  days,  and  it  was  remarked 
with  some  degree  of  uneasiness,  that  no  living  crea- 
ture had  this  day  been  seen.  They  were,  however, 
encouraged  to  find  that  while  the  sea  beyond  them 
was  covered  for  the  most  part  with  heavy  ice,  yet 
that  a  channel  of  sufficient  breadth  was  open  be- 
tween it  and  the  lee  shore  of  Bathurst  Island. 
This  ice  lay  in  very  large  fields,  covered  with  hum- 
mocks. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  151 

The  ships  made  very  Uttle  way  this  night,  but  in 
the  morning  early  they  advanced  with  more  speed, 
and  more  land  was  seen  to  the  westward.  The 
space  to  the  westward  was  so  broad,  and  the  pros- 
pect from  the  mast-head  so  flattering,  that  Capt. 
Parry  thought  proper  to  appoint  a  place  where  the 
Griper  should  find  the  Hecla,  in  case  of  separation 
by  the  difference  of  sailing.  But  about  seven,  P. 
M.  the  precaution  was  found  to  have  been  need- 
less, for  the  ice  stretched  across  the  strait,  and  barr- 
ed the  passage.  This  ice  was  covered  with  stones, 
sand,  and  in  some  places  with  moss. 

Finding  no  passage  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island,  Capt.  Parry  resolved  to  seek  one  along  the 
northern  shore.  As  the  vessels  were  rounding  the 
eastern  point,  Capt.  Sabine  and  other  officers  were 
despatched  to  make  the  requisite  observations,  and 
to  examine  the  natural  productions  of  the  shore. 
A  thick  fog  came  on  soon  after  the  boat  had  land- 
ed, and  the  ships  stood  off  and  on,  firing  signal 
guns,  which  were  at  length  answered  by  musquets 
from   the   boat,  which   came   on  board  in   safety. 

The  gentlemen  reported,  on  their  return,  that  they 
had  landed  on  a  sandy  beach,  near  the  east  point 
of  the  island,  which  they  found  to  be  more  produc- 
tive, and  altogether  more  interesting  than  any  other 
part  of  the  shores  of  the  polar  regions  which  they 
had  yet  visited.  The  remains  of  Esquimaux  habi- 
tations were  found  in  four  different  places.  Six  of 
these,  which  Captain  Sabine  had  an  opportunity  of 
examining,  and  which  are  situated  on  a  level  sandy 
bank,  at  the  side  of  a  small  ravine  near  the  sea,  are 


152  POLAR   REGIONS. 

described  by  him  as   consisting  of  stones   rudely 
placed  in  a  circular,  or  rather  an  elliptical  form. 
They  were  from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  the 
broad,  flat  sides  of  the   stones  standing  vertically, 
and  the  whole  structure,  if  such  it  may  be  called, 
being  exactly  similar  to  that  of  the  summer  huts  of 
the  Esquimaux,  which  had  been  seen  the  preceding 
year.      Attached   to   each   was   a   smaller   circle, 
about  four  or  five  feet   in  diameter.     The   small 
circles  were  placed  indifferently,  as  to  their   di- 
rection  from  the   huts  to  which   they  belonged ; 
and  from  the  moss  and  sand  which  covered  some 
of  the  lower  stones,  particularly  those  which  com- 
posed the  flooring  of   the  huts,  the  whole  encamp- 
ment appeared  to  have  been  deserted  for  several 
years.     Very  recent   traces  of  the  rein-deer  and 
musk-ox  were    seen  in  many  places ;  and  a  head 
of  the  latter,  with  several  rein-deers'  horns,  was 
brought  on  board.     A  few  patches  of  snow  remain- 
ed in  sheltered  situations ;  the  ravines,  however, 
which  were  numerous,  bore   the    signs   of  recent 
and   considerable  floods,   and   their  bottoms  were 
swampy,  covered  with  very  luxuriant  moss,  and  other 
vegetation,   the  character   of  which   differed  very 
Httle  from  that  of  the  land  at  the  bottom  of  Posses- 
sion Bay. 

The  latitude  of  the  place  of  observation  was 
75°  09'  23",  and  the  longitude,  by  chronometers, 
103°  44'  37".  The  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle  was 
88°  35' 58'',  and  the  variation  was  now  found  to  have 
changed  from  128°  58'  west,  in  the  longitude  of 
91°  48',  where  their  last  observation  on  shore  had 


POLAR    REGIONS.  153 

been  made,  to  165°  50'  09'  east,  at  our  present  sta- 
tion ;  so  that  they  had,  in  sailing  over  the  space  in- 
cluded between  those  two  meridians,  crossed  im- 
mediately to  the  northward  of  the  magnetic  pole, 
and  had  undoubtedly  passed  over  one  of  those 
spots  upon  the  globe,  where  the  needle  would 
have  been  found  to  vary  180%  or,  in  other  words, 
were  its  north  pole  would  have  pointed  due  south. 
This  spot  would,  in  all  probability,  at  this  time, 
be  somewhere  not  far  from  the  meridian  of  100** 
west  of  Greenwich. 

Such  an  observation  would  have  been  highly  in- 
teresting, but  considering  the  precarious  nature  of 
this  navigation,  Capt.  Parry  did  not  feel  himself 
justified  in  making  the  stay  it  w^ould  have  required. 

The  fogs  now  froze  hard  upon  the  rigging,  which 
made  it  very  laborious  to  work  the  ship,  as  each 
rope  was  thus  increased  to  twice  or  three  times  its 
proper  diameter.  On  the  evening  of  the  29th  a  very 
thick  fog  came  on,  and  they  sailed  under  such  cir- 
cumstances as  have  seldom  occurred  in  navigation. 
Having  observed  that  in  this  strait  the  wind  always 
blew  some  hours  steadily  from  one  quarter,  the 
quarter-masters  steered  by  the  vane  at  the  mast- 
head, instead  of  the  compass,  w^hich  was  here  ut- 
terly useless.  At  night  it  was  impossible  to  sail  in 
any  degree  of  security,  and  the  ships  were  made 
fast  to  a  floe  till  morning.  The  floe  was  not  more 
than  six  or  seven  feet  thick,  and  was  covered  with 
numerous  pools  of  water,  all  hard  fro2Jen.  The  of- 
ficers amused  themselves  in  skating  upon  the  pools, 
and  the  men  in  sliding,  football,  and  other  games. 


154  POLAR  REGIONS. 

Thus  the  ships  remained  till  the  morning  of  the 
thirtyfirst,  when  a  new  expedient  for  sailing  was 
adopted. 

Before  the  fog  commenced,  and  while  they  were 
saihng  on  the  course  which  by  the  bearings  of  the 
land  they  knew  to  be  the  right  one,  the  Griper 
was  exactly  astern  of  the  Hecla,  at  the  distance  of 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  The  weather  being  for- 
tunately not  so  thick  as  to  prevent  still  seeing  her 
at  that  distance,  the  quarter-master  was  directed 
to  stand  aft,  near  the  taffrail,  and  to  keep  her  con- 
stantly astern,  by  which  means  they  contrived  to 
steer  a  tolerably  straight  course  to  the  westward. 
The  Griper,  on  the  other  hand,  naturally  kept  the 
Hecla  right  a-head ;  and  thus,  however  ridiculous 
it  may  appear,  it  is,  nevertheless,  true,  that  they 
steered  one  ship  entirely  by  the  other  for  a  distance 
of  ten  miles  out  of  sixteen  and  a  half,  which  they 
sailed  between  one  and  eleven,  P.  M.  It  then 
being  rather  dark,  and  the  water  having  become 
shallow,  it  was  not  considered  prudent  to  proceed 
farther  in  that  direction. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  155 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Some  Description  of  the  Shores  of  Melville  Island. — The  Ships'  Companies 
win  the  Premium  for  penetrating  to  Longitude  110°  West  from  Green- 
wich.— Bay  of  the  Hecia  and  Griper. — Farther  Proceedings. — Loss  and 
Sufferings  of  a  Hunting  Party^ 

The  morning  of  the  first  of  September  brought  a 
breeze,  and  with  it  a  snow-storm,  so  that  they  were 
unable  to  shape  their  course  till  the  afternoon, 
when  the  weather  cleared,  and  a  small,  low  island 
was  discovered. 

At  one,  on  the  2d,  a  star  was  seen,  the  first  that 
had  been  visible  for  more  than  two  months.  The 
fog  came  on  again,  and  there  was  not  wind  enough 
to  enable  them  to  keep  the  ships  under  command, 
which  caused  them  to  receive  very  hard  blows, 
though  the  ice  was  loose  enough  to  have  allowed  a 
tolerably  easy  passage,  with  a  moderate  wind.  As 
none  of  the  pieces  w'ere  large  enough  to  make  the 
ships  fast  to,  after  the  usual  manner,  they  could 
only  heave  to,  to  wdndward  of  the  larger  masses,  and 
drift  with  them.  In  the  afternoon  they  stood  in 
for  the  land,  and  at  one,  P.  M.  Capt.  Parry  went  on 
shore,  and  was  joined  by  the  Griper's  boats.  They 
landed  on  a  very  flat,  sandy  beach,  which  did  not 
allow  the  boats  to  come  nearer  than  their  ow^n 
length.  The  basis  of  this  land  is  sandstone  ;  but 
they  met  with  hmestone  also,  occurring  in  loose 
pieces  on  the  surface,  and  several  lumps  of  coal 
were  brought  in  by  the  parties  w^ho  had  traversed 


156  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  island  in  different  directions.  The  sportsmen 
were  by  no  means  successful,  having  seen  only 
two  deer,  which  were  too  wild  to  allow  them  to 
get  near  them.  The  dung  of  these  animals,  how- 
ever, as  well  as  that  of  the  musk-ox,  was  very 
abundant,  especially  in  those  places  where  the 
moss  was  most  luxuriant;  every  here  and  there 
they  came  to  a  spot  of  this  kind,  consisting  of  one 
or  two  acres  of  ground,  covered  with  a  rich  vege- 
tation, and  which  was  evidently  the  feeding-place 
of  those  animals,  there  being  quantities  of  their 
hair  and  wool  lying  scattered  about.  Several  heads 
of  the  musk-ox  were  picked  up,  and  one  of  the 
Hecla's  seamen  brought ,  to  the  boat  a  narwhale's 
horn,  which  he  found  on  a  hill  more  than  a  mile 
from  the  sea,  and  which  must  have  been  carried 
thither  by  Esquimaux  or  by  bears.  Three  or  four 
brace  of  ptarmigan  were  killed,  and  these  were  the 
only  supply  of  this  kind  which  they  obtained.  Ser- 
jeant Martin  of  the  artillery,  and  Captain  Sabine's 
servant,  brought  down  to  the  beach  several  pieces 
of  a  large  fir  tree,  which  they  found  nearly  buried 
in  the  sand,  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  from  the  present  high-water  mark,  and  not 
less  than  thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
They  found  no  indica^on  of  this  part  of  the  island 
having  been  inhabite^Punless  the  narwhale's  horn, 
above  mentioned,  be^onsidered  as  such. 

The  latitude  of  tWd  place  of  observation  here, 
which  was  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  beach, 
was  74°  58',  the  longitude,  by  chronometers,  107** 
03'  31". 7,  and  the  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle 


POLAR    REGIONS.  157 

I5r  30'  03"  easterly.  At  the  top  of  a  hill,  immedi- 
ately above  the  place  of  observation,  and  about  a 
mile  from  the  sea,  a  bottle  was  buried,  containing 
the  usual  information.  A  mound  of  sand  and  stones 
was  raised  over  it,  with  a  boarding-pike  fixed  in  the 
middle. 

On  the  morning  of  the  third,  a  northern  breeze 
again  enabled  them  to  make  some  progress.  The 
farthest  land  to  the  westward  was  a  point  which 
they  found  much  difficulty  in  passing,  for  the  ice 
had  closed  in  upon  the  land.  They  made  tolerable 
progress  this  day,  and  on  the  4th,  at  nine,  P.  M. 
crossed  the  meridian  of  110°  west  from  Green- 
wich, in  latitude  74°  44'  20",  by  which  the  ships'  com- 
panies became  entitled  to  a  reward  of  five  thou- 
sand pounds,  offered  by  the  King's  order  in  council, 
'to  such  British  subjects  as  might  penetrate  so  far 
west  within  the  Arctic  Circle.' 

On  the  5th,  they  found  the  passage  blocked  up 
again,  and  stood  off  and  on,  waiting  for  an  opening 
to  occur  ;  but  no  change  taking  place,  and  a  heavy 
gale  coming  on,  the  ships  anchored  in  a  tolerable 
roadstead,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  northern  shore. 
In  the  evening,  Capt.  Sabine  and  some  of  the  oth- 
er officers  went  on  shore.  They  landed  on  a  low 
point  a  little  to  the  westward  of  the  ships,  which 
they  found  to  be  a  very  barren  and  unproductive 
spot ;  several  flocks  of  ducks  were  seen,  and  some 
glaucous  gulls  and  tern ;  the  dung  and  foot-tracks 
of  the  deer  and  musk-ox  were  also  observed  ^ 
many  places ;  and  some  addition  was  made  by  the 
gentlemen  to  their  collection  of  marine  insects, 
14 


158  POLAR  REGIONS. 

The  rocks  are  composed  entirely  of  sandstone ;  but 
a  few  small  pieces  of  granite,  flint,  and  coal,  were 
also  among  the  specimens  brought  on  board.  This 
island  was  named  Melville  Island,  and  the  roadstead 
where  the  ships  lay  was  called,  The  Bay  of  the 
Hecla  and  Griper. 

The  Bay  of  the  Hecla  and  Griper  was  the  first 
place  where  they  had  dropped  anchor  since  leaving 
England,  a  circumstance  which  seemed  to  mark  the 
completion  of  one  stage  of  the  voyage.  The  flags 
were  hoisted  as  soon  as  the  ships  anchored,  in 
honor  of  the  epoch ;  the  first  time  that  the  eye  of 
civilized  man  had  looked  on  that  barren  and  in- 
hospitable region. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  6th,  the  ice  was  observed 
to  be  in  motion,  and  the  ships  got  under  way,  and 
penetrated  through  it,  and  sailed  a  short  distance. 
They  were  again  beginning  to  indulge  in  flattering 
hopes,  when  a  compact  body  of  ice  was  observed 
from  the  crow's  nest,  extending  quite  across  their 
intended  passage.  They  ran  sufficiently  close  to 
be  assured  that  the  floes  joined  the  shore,  and  that  no 
opening  existed,  nor  was  any  clear  water  to  be  seen 
beyond  them  from  the  mast-head.  The  ships  were 
therefore  secured  to  a  floe ;  for  the  season  was  now 
so  far  advanced  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  secure 
them  every  night  from  ten  till  two  o'clock,  the 
weather  being  too  dark  to  allow  them  to  keep  under 
way. 

It  being  found  that  the  situation  in  which  the 
ships  lay  was  such  as  to  expose  them  to  be  nipped 
between  the  floes,  in  case  of  a  change  in  the  posi- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  159 

tion  of  the  ice,  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  remove 
them  nearer  to  the  land.     Two  large  masses  lay 
aground,  and  the  vessels  were  secured  between 
them    and  the    shore.     These  masses  were   from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  high  from  the  water,  and  about 
the  length  of  the  ships,  each.     They  appeared  to 
have  been  forced  upon  the  beach  by  an  enormous 
pressure  from  without.     The  parties  from  the  shore 
returned  with  a  white  hare,  several  fine  ptarmigans, 
a  few  snow-buntings,  some  skulls  of  the  musk-ox, 
and  several  reindeers'  horns  ;  but   they  were  not 
fortunate  enough  to  meet  with  either  of  the  two 
latter  animals.     The  island  is  here,  as  in  the  other 
parts  on  which  they  had  landed,  principally  com- 
posed of  sand-stone,  of  which  some  spherical  no- 
dules, one  of  them  as  large  as   a  nine-pound  shot, 
were  brought  on  board.      Several  lumps  of  coal, 
which  was  here  more  abundant  than  they  had  yet 
found  it,  were  also  picked  up,  and  were  found 'to 
burn  with  a  clear  lively  flame,  like  cannel  coal,  but 
without  splitting  and  crackling  in  the  same  manner. 
On  the  9th,  their  mortification  was  great  to  per- 
ceive that  not  only  the  ice  was  as  close  as  ever  to 
the    westward,   but   the   floes   in  their  immediate 
neighbourhood   were  approaching  the  shore.     On 
the   10th,  it  snowed.      At  five,  A.  M.   a  floe  ran 
against  the  berg  within  which  the  Hecla  was  se- 
cured, and  turned  it  round,  as  on  a  pivot.     They 
were   by   this   time  so  surrounded   with   ice   that 
no  clear  water  was  to  be  seen,  and  all  that  could  be 
done  was  to  attend  carefully  to  the  safety  of  the  ships, 
A  party  returned  in  the  evening  from  a  shooting 


160  POLAR    REGIONS. 

excursion,  and  reported  that  the  sea  was  covered 
with  ice  as  far  as  they  could  see  from  the  hill-tops. 

On  the  eleventh,  there  was  no  alteration  in  ap- 
pearances, and  a  party  sent  to  observe  the  ice  return- 
ed with  the  news  that  all  was  equally  unpromising 
farther  on.  One  of  the  officers  killed  the  first  musk- 
ox  that  they  had  yet  been  able  to  approach. 

They  now  began  to  be  alarmed  for  the  fate  of  a 
shooting  party  that  had  left  the  Griper  two  days 
before,  and  parties  went  in  search  of  them.  In  the 
evening  of  the  12th  they  arrived.  They  had  lost 
their  way  a  few  hours  after  leaving  the  ship,  and 
had  wandered  about  they  knew  not  whither,  till 
they  saw  a  flag-staff  that  had  been  set  up  for  their 
guidance.  At  night  they  had  halted,  made  a  little 
fire  to  keep  their  feet  from  freezing,  and  put  up  a 
small  hut  of  stones  to  shelter  them  from  the  weather. 
They  had  not  been  in  actual  want  of  food,  having 
lived  upon  raw  grouse,  of  which  they  had  enough 
to  subsist  upon.  The  whole  party  were  much  ex- 
hausted with  cold  and  fatigue,  and  several  of  them 
had  their  fingers  and  toes  severely  frost-bitten. 
Before  midnight,  after  their  return,  the  thermometer 
fell  to  15°,  and  a  hard  gale  gave  them  reason  to  be 
thankful  that  their  absence  had  not  been  longer 
protracted. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  161 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Ships  return  to  the  Bay  of  the  Hecla  and  Griper,  and  take  up  a  Po- 
sition for  the  Winter. — Proceedings  at  Winter  Harbor. — Internal  Ar- 
rangements of  the  Ships. 

The  packed  ice  remaining  immoveable,  and  the 
*  young'  ice  rapidly  forming,  farther  progress  was 
considered  impracticable  that  season.  Capt.  Parry 
thought  it  best  to  run  back  to  the  Bay  of  the  Hecla 
and  Griper  and  to  pass  the  winter  there.  The 
other  officers  concurring  with  him  in  opinion,  the 
signal  to  weigh  anchor  was  given  on  the  22d,  and 
the  crews  began  to  heave  at  the  cables ;  but  so 
stiff  had  they  become  with  frost,  and  so  much  ice 
had  accumulated  upon  them,  that  it  was  five,  P.  M. 
before  the  anchors  were  brought  on  board.  Their 
retrograde  movement  was  so  much  impeded  by  the- 
ice  that  had  formed  behind  them,  that  they  did  not 
reach  the  anchorage  till  the  evening  of  the  next 
day. 

A  proper  place  being  found,  the  ships  dropped 
anchor  on  the  edge  of  the  bay  ice  in  the  evening  of 
the  24th,  in  order  to  commence  operations.  A  line 
for  a  canal  was  marked  upon  the  ice  by  a  row  of 
boarding-pikes,  and  every  officer  and  man  was  em- 
ployed in  the  work,  which  went  on  as  follows. 
Two  parallel  lines  were  marked  out,  a  little  more 
than  the  breadth  of  the  ships  apart.  Along  each 
of  these  lines  a  cut  was  then  made  with  an  ice-saw, 
14* 


162  POLAR  REGIONS. 

and  others  again  at  right  angles  to  them,  at  inter- 
vals of  from  ten  to  twenty  feet ;  thus  dividing  the 
ice  into  a  number  of  rectangular  pieces,  which  it 
was  again  necessary  to  subdivide  diagonally,  in  or- 
der to  give  room  for  their  being  floated  out  of  the 
canal.  Capt.  Parry  returning  from  the  upper  part 
of  the  harbour,  where  he  had  marked  out  what  ap- 
peared to  be  the  best  situation  for  winter-quarters, 
found  that  considerable  progress  had  been  made  in 
cutting  the  canal,  and  m  floating  the  pieces  out  of 
it.  To  facilitate  the  latter  part  of  the  process,  the 
seamen,  who  are  always  fond  of  doing  things  in 
their  own  way,  took  advantage  of  a  fresh  northerly 
breeze,  by  setting  some  boats'  sails  upon  the  pieces 
of  ice,  a  contrivance  which  saved  both  time  and 
labor.  This  part  of  the  operation,  however,  was 
by  far  the  most  troublesome,  principally  on  account 
of  the  quantity  of  young  ice  which  formed  in  the 
canal,  and -especially  about  the  entrance,  where,  be- 
fore sun-set,  it  had  become  so  thick  that  a  passage 
could  no  longer  be  found  for  the  detached  pieces, 
without  considerable  trouble  in  breaking  it.  At 
half  past  seven,  P.  M.  they  weighed  their  anchors, 
and  began  to  warp  up  the  canal ;  but  the  northerly 
wind  blew  so  fresh,  and  the  people  were  so  much 
fatigued,  having  been  almost  constantly  at  w^ork  for 
nineteen  hours,  that  it  was  midnight  before  they 
reached  the  termination  of  their  first  day's  labor. 
While  they  were  thus  employed,  about  nine  o'clock 
a  vivid  flash  of  light  was  observed,  exactly  like 
lightning.  There  was  at  the  same  time,  and  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  night,  a  permanent  bright- 


POLAR   REGIONS.  163 

ness  in  the  northern  quarter  of  the  heavens,  which 
was  probably  occasioned  by  the  Aurora  Borealis. 

All  hands  were  again  set  to  work  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  25th,  when  it  was  proposed  to  sink  the 
pieces  of  ice,  as  they  w^ere  cut,  under  the  floe,  in- 
stead of  floating  them  out,  the  latter  mode  having 
now  become  impracticable  on  account  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  canal,  through  w^hich  the  ships  had  pass- 
ed being  hard  frozen  during  the  night.  To  effect 
this,  it  was  necessary  for  a  certain  number  of  men 
to  stand  upon  one  end  of  the  piece  of  ice  which  it 
was  intended  to  sink,  while  other  parties,  hauling 
at  the  same  time  upon  ropes  attached  to  the  oppo- 
site end,  dragged  the  block  under  that  part  of  the 
floe  on  which  the  people  stood.  The  officers  of 
both  ships  took  the  lead  in  this  employ,  several  of 
them  standing  up  to  their  knees  in  water  frequent- 
ly during  the  day,  with  the  thermometer  generally 
at  12°,  and  never  higher  than  16".  At  six,  P.  M. 
they  began  to  move  the  ships.  The  Griper  was 
made  fast  astern  of  the  Hecla,  and  the  two  ships' 
companies  being  divided  on  each  bank  of  the  canal, 
with  ropes  from  the  Hecla's  gangways,  soon  drew 
the  ships  along  to  the  end  of  their  second  day's 
work. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  but  it  being  a  matter 
of  absolute  necessity  to  get  the  ships  into  security 
with  despatch,  the  work  was  continued.  At  noon, 
the  whole  canal  was  completed  ;  a  length  of  four 
thousand  and  eightytwo  yards,  through  ice  seven 
inches  thick.  By  half  past  one  the  ships  were 
warped  to  their  winter  positions ;  an  event  which 


164  POLAR    REGIONS. 

was  hailed  with  three  hearty  cheers  from  the  crews. 
They  were  in  five  fathoms  water,  a  cable's  length 
from  the  beach  of  the  northwestern  side  of  the  harbor. 
The  wintering  ground  received  the  name  of  Winter 
Harbor ;  and  the  group  of  which  the  island  formed 
a  part  was  denominated  North  Georgian  Islands,  in 
honor  of  the  reigning  sovereign  of  Great  Britain. 

Having  thus  reached  the  place  where  they  were 
probably  to  pass  nine  months,  three  of  them  in  the 
absence  of  the  sun,  Capt.  Parry  found  himself  call- 
ed upon  to  act  in  circumstances  in  which  no  British 
naval  officer  had  ever  before  been  placed.  The 
security  of  the  ships  and  the  preservation  of  the 
stores  were,  the  most  immediate  duties,  and  he  lost 
no  time  in  going  about  it.  A  regular  system  for 
the  maintenance  of  good  order,  cleanhness,  and 
consequently,  health,  were  equal  claims  on  his  at- 
tention. Amusement  was  to  be  found  for  the  men, 
as  well  as  employment  to  relieve  the  tedium  of  so 
cheerless  a  sojourn,  and  scientific  observations  were 
to  be  made.  In  no  point  was  the  gallant  officer 
and  hardy  navigator  found  wanting,  and  he  was 
ably  seconded  by  the  officers  under  his  command. 
A  brief  account  of  their  proceedings  will  not  only 
be  amusing,  but  convey  the  best  knowledge  of  that 
dreary  region. 

Immediately  on  their  arrival  in  harbor.  Captain 
Sabine  had  employed  himself  in  selecting  a  place 
for  an  observatory,  which  was  erected  in  a  con- 
venient spot,  about  seven  hundred  yards  to  the 
westward  of  the  ships.      It  was  also  considered 


POLAR   REGIONS.  165 

advisable  immediately  to  set  about  building  a  house 
near  the  beach,  for  the  reception  of  the  clocks  and 
instruments.  For  this  purpose,  they  made  use  of 
a  quantity  of  fir-plank,  which  was  intended  for  the 
construction  of  spare  boats,  and  which  was  so  cut 
as  not  to  injure  it  for  that  purpose.  The  ground 
was  so  hard  frozen  that  it  required  great  labor  to 
dig  holes  for  the  upright  posts  which  formed  the 
support  of  the  sides.  The  walls  of  this  house 
being  double,  with  moss  placed  between  the  two, 
a  high  temperature  could,  even  in  the  severest 
w^eather  which  they  might  be  doomed  to  experi- 
ence, be  kept  up  in  it  without  difficulty  by  a  single 
stove. 

Not  a  moment  was  lost,  in  the  commencement 
of  operations.  The  whole  of  the  masts  were  dis- 
mantled, except  the  lower  ones  and  the  Hecla's 
main-top-mast;  the  lower  yards  were  lashed  fore 
and  aft  amidships,  to  support  the  planks  of  the  hous- 
ing intended  to  be  erected  over  the  ships ;  and  the 
whole  of  this  frame-work  was  afterwards  roofed 
over  with  a  cloth.  The  boats,  spars,  running  rig- 
ging, and  sails  were  removed  on  shore  ;  and  as  soon 
as  the  ships  were  secured  and  housed  over,  Capt. 
Parry's  whole  attention  was  directed  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  the  officers  and  men.  The  surgeon 
reported  that  not  the  slightest  disposition  to  scurvy 
had  shown  itself  in  either  ship. 

In  order  to  prolong  this  healthy  state  of  the 
crews,  and  to  promote  the  comfort  of  all,  such  ar- 
rangements were  made  for  the  warmth  and  dryness 
of  the  births  and  bed-places,  as  circumstances  ap- 


166  POLAR  REGIONS. 

peared  to  require  ;  and  in  this  respect  some  difficul- 
ties were  to  be  overcome,  which  could  not,  per- 
haps, have  been  anticipated.     Soon  after  their  ar- 
rival in  Winter  Harbor,  when  the  temperature  of 
the  atmosphere  had  fallen  considerably  below  zero 
of  Fahrenheit,    it  was  found  that  the  steam    from 
the  coppers,  as  well  as  the  breath  and  other  vapor 
generated  in  the  inhabitated  parts  of  the  ship,  be- 
gan to  condense  into  drops  upon  the  beams  and 
the  sides  to  such  a  degree  as  to  keep  them  constant- 
ly wet.     In  order  to  remove  this  serious  evil,  it  was 
necessary  to   adopt  such  means  for  producing  a 
sufficient  warmth,  combined  with  due  ventilation,  as 
might  carry  off    the    vapor,   and  thus  prevent  its 
settling  on  any  part  of  the  ship.     For  this  purpose 
a  large  stone  oven,  cased  with  cast-iron,  in  which 
all  their  bread  was  baked  during  the  winter,  was 
placed  on  the  main-hatchway,  and  the  stove-pipe 
led  fore  and  aft  on  one  side  of  the  lower  deck,  the 
smoke  being  thus  carried  up  the   fore  hatchway. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  deck,  an  apparatus  had 
been  attached  to  the  galley-range  for  conveying  a 
current  of  heated  air  between  decks.     This  appa- 
ratus simply  consisted  of  an  iron  box,  or  air-vessel, 
about  fifteen  inches  square,  through  which  passed 
three  pipes,  of  two  inches  diameter,  communicating 
from  below  with  the  external  air,  and  uniting  above 
in  a  metal  box,  fixed  to  the  side  of  the  galley-range  ; 
to  this  box  a  copper  stove-pipe  was  attached,  and 
conveyed  to  the  middle  part  of  the  lower  deck. 
When  a  fire  was  made  under  the  air-vessel,  the  air 
became  heated  in   its  passage  through  the  three 
pipes,  from   which  it  was  conveyed  through   the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  167 

Stove-pipe  to  the  men's  births.     While  this  appara- 
tus was  in  good  order,  a  moderate  fire  produced  a 
current  of  air  of  the  temperature  of  87%  at  the  dis- 
tance of  seventeen  feet  from  the  fire-place ;  and, 
with  a  pipe  of  wood,  or  any  other  imperfect  con- 
ductor of  heat,  which  would  not  allow  of  its  es- 
caping by  the  way,  it  might  undoubtedly  be  carried 
to  a  much  greater  distance.     By  these  means  they 
were  enabled  to  get  rid  of  the  moisture  about  the 
births   where    the  people  messed;  but  when   the 
weather  became  more  severely  cold,  it  still  accu- 
mulated in  the  bed-places  occasionally  to  a  serious 
and  very  alarming  degree.     Among  the  means  em- 
ployed to  prevent  the  injurious  effects  arising  from 
this  annoyance,  one  of  the  most  efficacious  perhaps 
was  a  screen  made    of  fear-nought,  fixed  to  the 
beams  round  the  galley,  and  dropping  within  eigh- 
teen inches  of  the  deck,  which  served  to  intercept 
the  steam  from   the  coppers,  and  prevent  it  from 
curhng  along  the  beams,  as  before,  and  condensing 
upon  them  into  drops.     This  screen  was  especially 
useful  at  the  time  of  drawing  off*  the  beer,  which  they 
had  lately  been  in  the  habit  of  brewing  from  essence 
of  malt  and  hops,  and  which  continued  to  be  served 
for  several  weeks  as  a  substitute  for  part  of  the 
usual  allowance  of  spirits.     They  found  the  steam 
arising  from  this  process  so  annoying  during  the 
cold  weather,  that,  valuable  as  the  beer  must  be 
considered  as    an   antiscorbutic  beverage,   it   was 
deemed  advisable  to  discontinue  their  brewery  on 
that  account.     When  the  weather  became  severely 
cold,  they  could  not  get  the  beer  to  ferment,  so  as 
to  make  it  palatable. 


168  POLAR    REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 


Mode  of  serving  out  Provisions  and  Fuel. — Theatre.— Weekly  Newspaper. — 
Emigration  of  the  Reindeer. — A  White  Bear. — Intense  Cold. 

For  the  preservation  of  health,  and  as  a  necessary 
measure  of  economy,  a  few  alterations  were  made 
in  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  provisions  issu- 
ed.    The  allowance  of  bread  was  permanently  re- 
duced to  two-thirds,  a  precaution  which,  perhaps,  it 
would  have  been  as  well  to  have  adopted  from  the 
commencement  of  the  voyage.     A  pound  of  pre- 
served meat,  together  with  one  pint  of  vegetable  or 
concentrated  soup  per  man,  was  substituted  for  one 
pound  of  salt  beef  weekly ;  a  proportion  of  beer 
and  wine  was  served  in  heu  of  spirits  ;  and  a  small 
quantity  of  sourkrout  and  pickles,  with  as  much 
vinegar  as  could  be  used,  w^as  issued  at  regular  inter- 
vals.    The  daily  proportion  of  lime-juice  and  sugar 
was  mixed  together,  and,  with  a  proper  quantity  of 
water,  was  drank  by  each  man,  in  presence  of  an 
officer  appointed  to  attend  to  this  duty.     The  latter 
precaution  may  appear  to  have  been  unnecessary, 
to  those  who  are  not  aware  how  much  sailors  re- 
semble children  in  all  those  points  in  which  their 
own  health  and  comfort  are  concerned.     Whenever 
any  game  was  procured,  it  was  directed  to  be  in- 
variably served  in  lieu  of,  and  not  in  addition  to, 
the  estabhshed  allowance  of  other  meat,  except  in 
a  few  extraordinary  cases,  when  such  an  indulgence 
was   allowed;   and  in  no  one  instance,  either  in 


POLAR   REGIONS.  169 

quantity  or  quality,  was  the  slightest  preference 
given  to  the  officers. 

In  the  article  of  fuel,  which  is  of  such  vital  im- 
portance in  so  severe  a  climate,  a  system  of  the 
most  rigid  economy  was  adopted ;  such  a  quantity 
of  coal  only  being  expended,  as  was  barely  sufficient 
for  the  preservation  of  health  on  board  the  ships. 
A  search  was  made  for  turf  or  moss,  immediately 
after  their  arrival,  and  a  small  quantity  of  the  latter 
was  made  use  of  as  fuel ;  but,  without  a  previous 
drying,  which,  from  the  advanced  period  of  the 
season,  they  had  no  means  of  giving  it,  it  was  found 
to  be  too  wet  to  produce  any  saving  of  coals.  They 
also  looked  out  most  anxiously  for  a  vein  of  coal 
on  shore,  but  only  a  few  lumps  were  picked  up 
during  their  stay  in  Winter  Harbour. 

Great  attention  was  paid  to  the  clothing  of  the 
men,  and  one  day  in  the  week  was  appointed  for 
the  examination  of  the  men's  shins  and  gums  by  the 
medical  gentlemen,  in  order  that  any  shght  appear- 
ance of  the  scurvy  might  at  once  be  detected,  and 
checked  by  timely  and  adequate  means. 

Whenever  a  blanket  was  brought  on  deck,  and 
suffered  to  remain  there  for  a  short  time,  it  of  course 
acquired  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere.  When 
this  happened  to  be  rather  low,  under  zero  of  Fah- 
renheit for  instance,  the  immediate  consequence, 
on  taking  the  blanket  again  into  the  inhabited  parts 
of  the  ship,  was,  that  the  vapor  settled  and  con- 
densed upon  it,  rendering  it  almost  instantly  so  wet 
as  to  be  unfit  to  sleep  on,  and  requiring,  therefore, 
after  all,  that  it  should  be  dried  by  artificial  heat 
15  "" 


170  POLAR  REGIONS. 

before  it  could  be  returned  into  the  bed-place. 
They  were,  therefore,  under  the  necessity  of  hang- 
ing the  bedding  upon  Hues  between  decks,  as  the 
only  mode  of  airing  it ;  and  what  was  likely  to 
prove  still  more  prejudicial,  they  were  obhged  to  have 
recourse  to  the  same  unhealthy  measure  in  drying 
the  washed  clothes. 

Under  circumstances  of  leisure   and  inactivity, 
such  as  they  were  now  placed  in,  and  with  every 
prospect  of  its  continuance  for  a  very  large  portion 
of  the  year,  Capt.  Parry  was   desirous  of  finding 
some  amusement  for  the  men  during  this  long  and 
tedious  interval.     He  proposed,  therefore,  to  the 
officers,  to  get  up  a  play  occasionally  on  board  the 
Hecla,  as  the  readiest  means  of  preserving  among 
the  crews  that  cheerfulness  and  good  humor  which 
had  hitherto  subsisted.     In  this  proposal  he   was 
readily  seconded  by  the  officers  of  both  ships;  and 
Lieutenant    Beechey   having    been    duly    elected 
stage-manager,  their  first  performance  was  fixed  for 
the  5th  of  November,  to  the  great  delight  of  the 
ships'  companies.    In  these  amusements  Capt.  Parry 
gladly  took  a  part  himself,  considering  that  an  ex- 
ample of  cheerfulness,  by  giving  a  direct  counte- 
nance to   everything    that   could  contribute  to  it, 
was  not  the  least  essential  part  of  his  duty,  under 
the   peculiar   circumstances   in   which   they   were 
placed. 

In  order  still  further  to  promote  good  humor, 
as  well  as  to  furnish  amusing  occupation,  during  the 
hours  of  constant  darkness,  they  set  on  foot  a  week- 
ly newspaper,  which  was  to  be  called  the  JYorth 


POLAR  REGIONS.  171 

Georgia  Gazette  and  Winter  Chronicle,  and  of  which 
Captain  Sabine  undertook  to  be  the  editor,  under 
the  promise  that  it  was  to  be  supported  by  original 
contributions  from  the  officers  of  the  two  ships : 
and,  though  some  objection  may,  perhaps,  be  raised 
against  a  paper  of  this  kind  being  generally  resorted 
to  in  ships  of  war,  Capt.  Parry  was  too  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  discretion,  as  well  as  the  excel- 
lent dispositions  of  his  officers,  to  apprehend  any 
unpleasant  consequences  from  a  measure  of  this 
kind :  instead  of  which,  the  weekly  contributions 
had  the  happy  effect  of  employing  the  leisure  hours 
of  those  who  furnished  them,  and  of  diverting  the 
mind  from  the  gloomy  prospect  which  would  some- 
times obtrude  itself  on  the  stoutest  heart. 

Among  the  fortunate  circumstances  of  this  sea- 
son's navigation,  none  w^as  more  striking  than  the 
opportune  time  the  ships  got  into  harbour ;  for  on 
the  very  night  of  their  arrival  the  temperature 
fell  to  one  degree,  and  on  the  next  morning  the 
sea  was  seen  from  the  hill  tops  to  be  frozen  over 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  nor  w^as  any  open 
water  seen  afterwards.  During  the  first  weeks  of 
October  the  young  ice  was  sometimes  much  squeezed 
by  the  larger  floes,  a  proof  that  they  had  yet  some 
room  to  move  in ;  but  after  that  time,  the  sea  was 
covered  with  solid  and  motionless  ice. 

A  few  reindeer  and  coveys  of  grouse  were  seen, 
but  the  land  was  so  bare  that  the  sportsmen  found  no 
cover  that  might  aid  in  approaching  them,  and  they 
only  killed  three  deer  in  all  their  excursions.  The 
reindeer  emigrated  before  the  close  of  October, 


172  POLAR    REGIONS. 

leaving  only  bears,  foxes,  and  wolves  behind  them. 
On  the  first  of  this  month,  a  bear  chased  one  of  the 
men  quite  to  the  ships,  where  he  was  wounded  with 
several  balls,  but  nevertheless  escaped.  Another 
time  a  marine  belonging  to  the  Griper  stayed  so 
long  on  shore  in  pursuit  of  reindeer,  that  he  would 
have  perished  of  cold,  if  he  had  not  been  found 
and  brought  on  board.  His  fingers  were  frozen 
quite  stiff,  so  that  notwithstanding  the  care  and 
attention  of  the  surgeon,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
amputate  three  of  them.  It  would  seem,  that  the 
cold  of  this  climate  gives  those  who  suffer  its 
rigor  every  appearance  of  the  last  stage  of  intoxica- 
tion, an  effect  we  have  never  observed  in  a  low 
temperature  elsewhere. 

All  the  water  used  on  board  the  ships  was  pro- 
cured by  dissolving  the  snow,  which  was  dug  out 
of  large  drifts,  and  was  quite  pure  and  whole- 
some. In  strong  winds,  the  snow  was  so  whirled 
about,  that  nothing  could  be  seen  more  than  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile.  On  such  occasions,  no  person  was 
permitted  to  leave  the  ships,  for  no  human  being 
could  have  borne  such  exposure  an  hour.  In  order 
to  procure  a  communication  between  the  ships  a 
distance  of  a  cable's  length,  and  with  the  house  on 
shore,  a  line  was  kept  extended  from  one  to  the 
other.  To  prevent  absent  parties  from  losing  them- 
selves, guide-boards  were  erected  on  all  the  hiils 
for  three  miles  round.  After  the  middle  of  October, 
whenever  the  snow  fell,  it  consisted  of  very  minute 
particles,  in  every  form  of  crystallization.  The 
meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  was  observed  for  the 
last  time  on  the  16th  of  October. 


Wm 


POLAR    REGIONS.  173 

About  the  17th,  the  reindeer  were  seen  in  great 
numbers ;  but  on  the  20th,  the  sportsmen  saw  no 
living  thing.  On  the  26th,  the  light  was  sufficient 
to  allow  of  reading  and  writing  in  the  cabins,  from 
half  past  nine  till  half  past  two.  The  rest  of  the 
hours  were  spent  by  lamp  light.  Nothing  could 
exceed  the  beauty  of  the  sky  to  the  southeast  and 
southwest  at  sunrise  and  sunset  about  this  period : 
near  the  horizon  there  was  generally  a  rich  bluish 
purple,  and  a  bright  arch  of  deep  red  above,  the 
one  mingling  imperceptibly  with  the  other.  The 
weather  about  this  time  w^as  remarkably  mild,  the 
mercury  in  the  thermometer  having  stood  at  or 
above  zero  for  more  than  fortyeight  hours.  By 
a  register  of  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere, 
which  was  kept  by  Captain  Sabine  at  the  observa- 
tory, it  was  found  that  the  thermometer  invariably 
stood  at  least  from  2°  to  5°,  and  even  on  one  or  two 
occasions  as  much  as  7"*  higher  on  the  outside  of 
the  ships  than  it  did  on  shore,  owing  probably  to 
a  warm  atmosphere  created  round  the  former,  by 
the  constant  fires  kept  up  on  board. 

It  now  became  rather  a  painful  experiment  to 
touch  any  metallic  substance  in  the  open  air  with 
the  naked  hand ;  the  feehng  produced  by  it  exactly 
resembling  that  occasioned  by  the  opposite  ex- 
treme of  intense  heat,  and  taking  off  the  skin  from 
the  part  affected.  They  found  it  necessary,  there- 
fore, to  use  great  caution  in  handling  the  sextants 
and  other  instruments,  particularly  the  eye-pieces 
of  telescopes,  which,  if  suffered  to  touch  the  face, 
occasioned  an  intense  burning  pain ;  but  this  was 
15* 


174  POLAR   REGIONS. 

easily  remedied,  by  covering  them  over  with  soft 
leather.  Another  effect,  with  regard  to  the  use 
of  instruments,  began  to  appear  about  this  time. 
Whenever  any  instrument,  which  had  been  some 
time  exposed  to  the  atmosphere,  so  as  to  be  cooled 
down  to  the  same  temperature,  was  suddenly 
brought  below  into  the  cabins,  the  vapor  was  in- 
stantly condensed  all  around  it,  so  as  to  give  the 
instrument  the  appearance  of  smoking ;  and  the 
glasses  were  covered  almost  instantaneously  with 
a  thin  coating  of  ice,  the  removal  of  which  required 
great  caution  to  prevent  the  risk  of  injuring  them, 
until  it  had  gradually  thawed,  as  they  acquired  the 
temperature  of  the  cabin.  When  a  candle  was 
placed  in  a  certain  direction  from  the  instrument 
with  respect  to  the  observer,  a  number  of  very 
minute  spiculce  of  snow  were  also  seen  sparkling 
around  the  instrument,  at  the  distance  of  two  or 
three  inches  from  it,  occasioned  by  the  cold  atmos- 
phere produced  by  the  low  temperature  of  the  in*- 
strument  almost  instantaneously  congealing  into 
that  form  the  vapor  which  floated  in  its  immediate 
neighbourhood. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  175 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Opening  of  the  Theatre. — Wolves  and  White  Foxes. — Measures  to  obyiate 
the  Effects  of  the  Cold.— Mode  of  Passing  the  Time. 

November  set  in  with  mild  weather.  The  fourth 
was  the  last  day  that  the  sun,  independently  of  re- 
fraction, would  be  seen  above  the  horizon  for  hine- 
tysix  days,  but  the  weather  was  too  thick  to  allow 
of  making  any  observations.  On  the  fifth  their  the- 
atre opened  with  the  representation  of  Miss  in  her 
Teens,  which  afforded  the  men  a  great  fund  of 
amusement.  Even  fitting  up  the  theatre  and  taking 
it  to  pieces  again,  was  a  matter  of  no  small  impor- 
tance, as  it  kept  the  men  employed  a  day  or  two 
before  and  after  each  performance,  which  was  a 
considerable  object  gained. 

On  the  11  th,  the  thermometer  fell  to — 26 J  for 
the  second  time.  The  wolves  began  to  approach 
the  ships  boldly,  howhng  most  piteously  on  the 
beach  near,  sometimes  for  hours  together,  and,  on 
one  or  two  occasions,  coming  alongside  the  ships, 
when  everything  was  quiet  at  night ;  but  they  sel- 
dom saw  more  than  one  or  two  together,  and, 
therefore,  could  form  no  idea  of  their  number. 
These  animals  were  always  very  shy  of  coming 
near  the  people,  and,  though  evidently  suffering 
much  from  hunger,  never  attempted  to  attack  any 
of  them.  The  white  foxes  used  also  to  visit  the 
ships  at  night,  and  one  of  these  was  caught  in  a  trap 
set  under  the  Griper's  bows.     The  uneasiness  dis- 


176  POLAR    REGIONS. 

played  by  this  beautiful  little  animal  during  the 
time  of  his  confinement,  whenever  he  heard  the 
howling  of  a  wolf  near  the  ships,  gave  rise  to  an 
opinion,  that  the  latter  is  in  the  habit  of  hunting  the 
fox  as  his  prey. 

The  rapidity  with  which  the  ice  now  formed 
round  the  ships,  was  so  great,'  as  to  employ  the 
people  several  hours  every  day  in  cutting  it,  and 
their  utmost  labor  could  hardly  keep  them  clear. 
Capt.  Parry,  therefore,  gave  orders  to  leave  off  cut- 
ting it  during  the  severity  of  the  winter.  The  ave- 
rage formation,  while  they  continued  to  cut  it,  was 
from  three  to  five  inches  a  day,  and  the  mean  tem- 
perature was — 12^ 

The  cold  increasing  about  the  middle  of  the 
month,  the  cracking  of  the  timbers  was  very  frequent 
and  loud  for  a  time ;  but  generally  ceased  altogeth- 
er in  an  hour  or  two  after  this  fall  had  taken  place 
in  the  thermometer,  and  did  not  occur  again  at  the 
same  temperature  during  the  winter.  The  wind 
blowing  fresh  from  the  northward,  with  a  heavy 
snow-drift,  made  the  ship  very  cold  below ;  so  that 
the  breath  and  other  vapor  accumulated  during 
the  night  in  the  bed-places  and  upon  the  beams, 
and  then  immediately  froze  ;  hence  it  often  occupied 
all  hands  for  two  or  three  hours  during  the  day  to 
scrape  the  ice  away,  in  order  to  prevent  the  bedding 
from  becoming  wet  by  the  increase  of  temperature 
occasioned  by  the  fires.  It  was  therefore  found 
necessary  to  keep  some  of  the  fires  in  between 
decks  at  night,  when  the  thermometer  was  below 
— 15°  or  — 20°  in  the  open  air,  especially  when  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  177 

wind  was  high.  To  assist  in  keeping  the  lower 
decks  warm,  as  well  as  to  retard,  in  some  slight 
degree,  the  formation  of  ice  immediately  in  contact 
with  the  ships'  bends,  they  banked  the  snow  up 
against  their  sides,  as  high  as  the  main-chains  ;  and 
canvass  screens  were  nailed  round  all  the  hatch- 
ways on  the  lower  deck. 

The  stars  of  the  second  magnitude  in  Ursa  Major 
were  perceptible  to  the  naked  eye  a  little  after 
noon  on  the  11th,  and  the  Aurora  Borealis  appear- 
ed faintly  in  the  southwest  at  night. 

The  cold  continued  to  increase.  About  the 
middle  of  December,  a  serious  loss  took  place  in 
the  bursting  of  the  bottles  of  lemon  juice,  the  whole 
contents  often  freezing  into  a  solid  mass,  except  a 
small  portion  of  highly  concentrated  acid  in  the 
centre,  which  in  most  instances  leaked  out,  so  that 
the  ice  remaining  was  little  better  than  water.  The 
loss  of  this  valuable  antiscorbutic  increased  to  an 
alarming  degree :  in  some  boxes  which  were  in- 
spected, two  thirds  of  the  contents  were  found  to 
be  destroyed,  and  the  remainder  rendered  inefficient. 
The  vinegar  also  froze  in  the  same  manner,  and  lost 
much  of  its  acidity  when  thawed.  A  few  gallons 
of  very  highly  concentrated  vinegar,  congealed  in- 
to a  consistence  like  honey. 

Though  it  might  be  supposed  that  the  time  would 
have  dragged  heavily  in  such  a  situation  and  in 
such  a  climate,  the  case  was  in  fact  very  different. 
So  fully  occupied  was  the  time  of  both  officers  and 
men,  that  its  quick  flight  w^as  matter  of  general  re- 
mark.    The  manner  in  which  the  days  and  hours 


W^' 


178  POLAR   REGIONS. 

were  employed  during  a  total  darkness  of  three 
months,  may  not  perhaps  be  wholly  uninteresting. 
The  officers  and  quarter-masters  were  divided  into 
four  watches,  which  were  regularly  kept,  as  at  sea, 
while  the  remainder  of  the  ship's  company  were 
allowed  to  enjoy  their  night's  rest  undisturbed. 
The  hands  were  turned  up  at  a  quarter  before  six, 
and  both  decks  were  well  rubbed  with  stones  and 
warm  sand  before  eight  o'clock,  at  which  time,  as 
usual  at  sea,  both  officers  and  men  went  to  break- 
fast. Three  quarters  of  an  hour  being  allowed 
after  breakfast  for  the  men  to  prepare  themselves 
for  muster,  they  then  beat  to  divisions  punctually 
at  a  quarter  past  nine,  when  every  person  on  board 
attended  on  the  quarter-deck,  and  a  strict  inspection 
of  the  men  took  place,  as  to  their  personal  cleanli- 
ness, and  the  good  condition,  as  well  as  sufficient 
wamth,  of  their  clothing.  The  reports  of  the  of- 
ficers having  been  made  to  Capt.  Parry,  the  people 
were  then  allowed  to  walk  about,  or,  more  usually, 
to  run  round  the  upper  deck,  while  he  w^ent  down 
to  examine  the  state  of  that  below.  The  state  of 
this  deck  may  be  said,  indeed,  to  have  constituted 
the  chief  source  of  anxiety,  and  to  have  occupied 
by  far  the  greatest  share  of  attention  at  this  period. 
Whenever  any  dampness  appeared,  or,  what  more 
frequently  happened,  any  accumulation  of  ice  had 
taken  place  during  the  preceding  night,  the  necessa- 
ry means  were  immediately  adopted  for  removing 
it ;  in  the  former  case,  usually  by  rubbing  the  wood 
with  cloths,  and  then  directing  the  warm  air-pipe 
towards  the  place  ;  and  in  the  latter,  by  scraping  off 


POLAR    REGIONS.  179 

the  ice,  so  as  to  prevent  its  wetting  the  deck  by 
any  accidental  increase  of  temperature.  In  this 
respect,  the  bed-places  were  particularly  trouble- 
some ;  the  inner  partition,  or  that  next  the  ship's 
side,  being  almost  invariably  covered  with  more  or 
less  dampness  or  ice,  according  to  the  temperature 
of  the  deck  during  the  preceding  night.  This  in- 
convenience might  to  a  great  degree  have  been 
avoided,  by  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fuel  to  keep  up 
two  good  fires  on  the  lower  deck,  throughout  the 
twentyfour  hours  ;  but  the  stock  of  coals  would  by 
no  means  permit  this,  bearing  in  mind  the  possibil- 
ity of  spending  a  second  winter  within  the  Arctic 
circle ;  and  this  comfort  could  only,  therefore,  be 
allowed  on  a  few  occasions,  during  the  most  severe 
part  of  the  winter. 

In  the  course  of  Capt.  Parry's  examination  of 
the  lower  deck,  he  had  always  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  those  few  men  who  were  on  the  sick  hst, 
and  of  receiving  from  Mr  Edwards  a  report  of 
their  respective  cases  ;  as  also  of  consulting  that 
gentleman  as  to  the  means  of  improving  the  warmth, 
ventilation,  and  general  comfort  of  the  inhabited 
parts  of  the  ship.  Having  performed  this  duty,  he 
returned  to  the  upper  deck,  where  he  personally 
inspected  the  men ;  after  which  they  were  sent  out 
to  walk  on  shore,  when  the  weather  w^ould  permit, 
till  noon,  when  they  returned  on  board  to  their 
dinner.  When  the  day  was  too  inclement  for  them 
to  take  this  exercise,  they  were  ordered  to  run 
round  and  round  the  deck,  keeping  step  to  the 
tune  of  an  organ,  or,  not  unfrequently,  to  a  song  of 


180  POLAR    REGIONS. 

their  own  singing.  Among  the  men  were  a  few 
who  did  not  at  first  quite  like  this  systematic  mode  of 
taking  exercise ;  but  when  they  found  that  no  plea, 
except  that  of  illness,  was  admitted  as  an  excuse, 
they  not  only  willingly  and  cheerfully  complied,, 
but  made  it  the  occasion  of  much  humor  and 
frolic  among  themselves. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Scenery  of  Winter  Harbour. — Optical  Deception. — Employments  of  Offi- 
cers and  Men. — Theatrical  Entertainments. — Night  and  Day. 

The  officers,  who  dined  at  two  o'clock,  were 
also  in  the  habit  of  occupying  one  or  two  hours 
in  the  middle  of  the  day  in  rambling  on  shore,  even 
in  the  darkest  period,  except  when  a  fresh  wind 
and  a  heavy  snow-drift  confined  them  within  the 
housing  of  the  ships.  It  may  well  be  imagined  that 
at  this  period,  there  was  but  little  to  be  met  with 
in  their  walks  on  shore,  which  could  either  amuse 
or  interest.  The  necessity  of  not  exceeding  the 
limited  distance  of  one  or  two  miles,  lest  a  snow- 
drift, which  often  rises  very  suddenly,  should  pre- 
vent return,  added  considerably  to  the  dull  and 
tedious  monotony  which,  day  after  day,  presented  it- 
self. To  the  southward  was  the  sea,  covered  with 
one  unbroken  surface  of  ice,  uniform  in  its  dazzHng 
whiteness,  except  that,  in  some  parts,  a  few  hum- 
mocks were  seen  thrown  up  somewhat  above  the 
general  level.  Nor  did  the  land  offer  much  great- 
er variety,  being  almost  entirely  covered  with  snow, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  181 

except  here  and  there  a  brown  patch  of  bare  ground 
in  some  exposed  situations,  where  the  wind  had 
not  allowed  the  snow  to  remain.  When  viewed 
from  the  summit  of  the  neighbouring  hills,  on  one 
of  those  calm  and  clear  days,  which  not  unfrequent- 
\y  occurred  during  the  winter,  the  scene  was  such 
as  to  induce  contemplations  w^hich  had,  perhaps, 
more  of  melancholy  than  of  any  other  feeling.  Not 
an  object  was  to  be  seen  on  which  the  eye  could 
long  rest  with  pleasure,  unless  w^ljen  directed  to 
the  spot  where  the  ships  lay,  and  where  the  little 
colony  was  planted.  The  smoke  which  there  is- 
sued from  the  several  fires,  affording  a  certain  indi- 
cation of  the  presence  of  man,  gave  a  partial  cheer- 
fulness to  this  part  of  the  prospect ;  and  the  sound 
of  voices,  which,  during  the  cold  weather,  could  be 
heard  at  a  much  greater  distance  than  usual,  served 
now  and  then  to  break  the  silence  which  reigned 
around  ;  a  silence  far  different  from  that  peaceable 
composure  which  characterises  the  landscape  of  a 
cultivated  country ;  it  was  the  death-like  stillness  of 
the  most  dreary  desolation,  and  the  total  absence 
of  animated  existence.  Such,  indeed,  was  the 
want  of  objects  to  afford  relief  to  the  eye  or  amuse- 
ment to  the  mind,  that  a  stone  of  more  than  usual 
size  appearing  above  the  snow,  in  the  direction  in 
which  they  might  be  going,  immediately  became  a 
mark,  on  which  their  eyes  were  unconsciously 
fixed,  and  towards  which  they  mechanically  ad- 
vanced. 

Dreary  as  such  a  scene  must  necessarily  be,  it 

could  not,  however,  be  said  to  be  wholly  wanting 
16 


182  POLAR    REGIONS. 

in  interest,  especially  when  associated  in  the  mind 
with  the  pecuharity  of  their  situation,  the  object 
which  had  brought  them  hither,  and  the  hopes  which 
the  least  sanguine  among  them  sometimes  enter- 
tained, of  spending  a  part  of  the  next  winter  in  the 
more  genial  climate  of  the  South- Sea  Islands.  Per- 
haps, too,  though  none  then  ventured  to  confess  it, 
their  thoughts  would  sometimes  involuntarily  wander 
homewards,  and  institute  a  comparison  between 
the  rugged  fac  of  nature  in  this  desolate  region, 
and  the  livelier  aspect  of  the  happy  land  which  they 
had  left  behind. 

They  had  frequent  occasion,  in  their  walks  on 
shore,  to  mark  the  deception  which  takes  place  in 
estimating  the  distance  and  magnitude  of  objects, 
when  viewed  over  an  unvaried  surface  of  snow. 
It  was  not  uncommon  for  them  to  direct  their  steps 
towards  what  they  took  to  be  a  large  mass  of 
stone,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  but  which 
they  were  able  to  take  up  in  their  hands  after  one 
minute's  walk.  This  was  more  particularly  the 
case,  when  ascending  the  brow  of  a  hill ;  nor  did 
they  find  that  the  deception  became  less,  on  account 
of  the  frequency  with  which  they  experienced  its 
effects. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  men  were  usually  occupied 
in  drawing  and  knotting  yarns,  and  in  making  points 
and  gaskets  ;  a  never-failing  resource,  where  mere 
occupation  is  required,  and  which  it  was  necessary 
to  perform  entirely  on  the  lower  deck,  the  yarns 
becoming  so  hard  and  brittle,  when  exposed  on 
deck  to  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  as  to 


POLAR    REGIONS.  183 

be  too  stiff  for  working,  and  very  easily  broken. 
We  may  in  this  place  remark  that  the  lower  rigging 
became  extremely  slack  during  the  severity  of  the 
winter,  and  gradually  tightened  again  as  the  spring 
returned ;  effects  the  very  reverse  of  those  which 
had  been  anticipated,  and  which  can  only  be  ac- 
counted for  by  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  atmos- 
phere in  the  middle  of  winter,  and  the  subsequent 
increase  of  moisture. 

At  half  past  five  in  the  evening,  the  decks  were 
cleared  up,  and  at  six  they  again  beat  to  divisions, 
when  the  same  examination  of  the  men  and  of  their 
births  and  bed-places  took  place  as  in  the  morning ; 
the  people  then  went  to  their  supper,  and  the  of- 
ficers to  tea.  After  this  time  the  men  were  permit- 
ted to  amuse  themselves  as  they  pleased,  and  games 
of  various  kinds,  as  well  as  dancing  and  singing 
occasionally,  went  on  upon  the  lower  deck  till  nine 
o'clock,  when  they  went  to  bed,  and  their  lights 
were  extinguished.  In  order  to  guard  against  ac- 
cidents by  fire,  where  so  many  fires  and  fights  were 
necessarily  in  use,  the  quarter-masters  visited  the 
lower  deck  every  half  hour  during  the  night,  and 
made  their  report  to  the  officers  of  the  watches 
that  all  was,  in  this  respect,  safe  below  ;  and  to  se- 
cure a  ready  supply  of  water  in  case  of  fire,  a  hole 
was  cut  twice  a  day  in  the  ice,  close  alongside  each 
ship.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that  the 
evening  occupations  of  the  oflficers  were  of  a  more 
rational  kind  than  those  which  engaged  the  atten- 
tion of  the  men.  Of  these,  reading  and  writing 
were  the  principal  employments,  to  which  were 


184  POLAR    REGIONS. 

occasionally  added  a  game  of  chess,  or  a  tune  on 
the  liute  or  violin,  till  half-past  ten,  about  which 
time  they  all  retired  to  rest. 

Such  were  the  employments  which  usually  occu- 
pied them  for  six  days  in  the  week,  with  such  ex- 
ceptions only  as  circumstances  at  the  time  suggest- 
ed. On  Sundays,  divine  service  was  invariably  per- 
formed, and  a  sermon  was  read  on  board  both  ships  ; 
the  prayer  appointed  to  be  daily  used  at  sea,  being 
altered,  so  as  to  adapt  it  to  the  service  in  which 
they  were  engaged,  the  success  which  had  hitherto 
attended  their  efforts,  and  the  peculiar  circumstan- 
ces under  which  they  were  placed.  The  attention 
paid  by  the  men  to  the  observance  of  their  religious 
duties,  was  such  as  to  reflect  upon  them  the  highest 
credit,  and  tended  in  no  small  degree  to  the  preser- 
vation of  that  regularity  and  good  conduct,  for 
which,  with  very  few  exceptions,  they  were  invari- 
ably distinguished.  * 

Theatrical  entertainments  took  place  regularly 
once  a  fortnight,  and  continued  to  prove  a  source 
of  infinite  amusement  to  the  men.  The  stock  of 
plays  was  so  scanty,  consisting  only  of  one  or  two 
volumes,  which  happened  accidentally  to  be  on 
board,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  they  could  find 
the  means  of  varying  the  performances  sufficiently. 
The  writers,  therefore,  set  to  work,  and  produced, 
as  a  Christmas  piece,  a  musical  entertainment,  ex- 
pressly adapted  to  the  audience,  and  having  such  a 
reference  to  the  service  on  which  they  were  en- 
gaged, and  the  success  they  had  so  far  experienced, 
as  at  once  to  afford  a  high  degree  of  present  recrea- 


* 


POLAR   REGIONS.  185 

tion,  and  to  stimulate,  if  possible,  the  sanguine  hopes 
which  were  entertained  by  all  on  board,  of  the  com- 
plete accomplishment  of  the  enterprise.  They 
were  at  one  time  apprehensive,  that  the  severity  of 
the  weather  would  have  prevented  the  continuance 
of  this  amusement,  but  the  perseverance  of  the  of- 
ficers overcame  every  difficulty  ;  and,  perhaps,  for 
the  first  time  since  theatrical  entertainments  were 
devised,  more  than  one  or  two  plays  were  per- 
formed, with  the  thermometer  below  zero  on  the 
stage,  on  board  the  Hecla. 

The  JVorth  Georgia  Gazette,  which  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned,  was  a  source  of  great  amusement, 
not  only  to  the  contributors,  but  to  those  who,  from 
diffidence  of  their  own  talents,  or  other  reasons, 
could  not  be  prevailed  on  to  add  their  mite  to  the 
little  stock  of  hterary  composition,  which  was  week- 
ly demanded;  for  those  who  declined  to  write 
were  not  unwilhng  to  read,  and  more  ready  to 
criticise  than  those  who  wielded  the  pen ;  but  it 
was  that  good-humored  sort  of  criticism  that  could 
not  give  offence.  The  subjects  handled  in  this 
paper  were,  of  course,  various,  but  generally  appli- 
cable to  their  own  situation.  Of  its  merits  or  de- 
fects it  will  not  be  necessary  to  say  anything  here. 
The  officers,  who  were  chiefly  concerned  in  carrying 
it  on,  agreed  to  print  it  for  the  entertainment  of 
their  friends ;  the  publisher  being  at  liberty,  after 
supplying  each  with  a  certain  number  of  copies,  to 
dispose  of  the  rest. 

The   return   of  each  successive  day  had  been 

always  very  decidedly  marked  by  a  considerable 
16*= 


IS6  POLAR    REGIONS. 

twilight  for  some  time  about  noon ;  that  on  the  short- 
est day  being  sufficient  to  enable  them  to  walk  out 
very  comfortably  for  nearly  two  hours.  There  was, 
usually,  in  clear  weather,  a  beautiful  arch  of  bright 
red  light,  overspreading  the  southern  horizon  for 
an  hour  or  two  before  and  afffer  noon  ;  the  light  in- 
creasing, of  course,  in  strength,  as  the  sun  ap- 
proached the  meridian.  Short  as  the  day  now  was, 
if  indeed  any  part  of  the  twentyfour  hours  could 
properly  be  called  by  that  name,  the  reflection  of 
light  from  the  snow,  aided  occasionally  by  a  bright 
moon,  was  at  all  times  sufficient  to  prevent  expe- 
riencing, even  under  the  most  unfavorable  cir- 
cumstances, anything  like  the  gloomy  night  which 
occurs  in  more  temperate  climates.  Especial  care 
was  taken,  during  the  time  the  sun  was  below  the 
horizon,  to  preserve  the  strictest  regularity  in  the 
time  of  meals,  and  in  the  various  occupations  which 
engaged  the  men's  attention  during  the  day;  and  this, 
together  with  the  gradual  and  imperceptible  manner 
in  which  the  days  had  shortened,  prevented  this 
kind  of  life,  so  novel  in  reality,  from  appearing  very 
inconvenient,  or  indeed  like  anything  out  of  the 
common  way.  They  were  not  sorry,  however,  to 
have  arrived  without  any  serious  suffering,  at  the 
shortest  day;  and  they  watched  with  no  ordinary 
degree  of  pleasure,  the  slow  approach  of  the  re- 
turning sun. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  187 


CHAPTER  XL 

Christmas.— Scurvy  breaks  out  on  board  the  Hecla. — Extreme  Cold. — The 
Sun  seen. — Conflagration  on  Shore. — Extraordinary  Accumulation  of 
Vapor. — Sudden  Change  of  Weather. 

On  Christmas-day  the  weather  was  raw  and  cold, 
with  a  considerable  snow-drift,  though  the  wind  was 
only  moderate  from  the  N.  W. ;  but  the  snow  which 
falls  during  the  severe  winter  of  this  climate  is  com- 
posed of  spiculse  so  extremely  minute,  that  it  re- 
quires very  little  wind  to  raise  and  carry  it  along. 
To  mark  the  day  in  the  best  manner  which  circum- 
stances would  permit,  divine  service  was  performed 
on  board  the  ships ;  and  Capt.  Parry  directed  a 
small  increase  in  the  men's  usual  proportion  of 
fresh  meat  as  a  Christmas- dinner,  as  well  as  an  ad- 
ditional allowance  of  grog,  to  drink  the  health  of 
their  friends  in  England.  The  officers  also  met  at 
a  social  and  friendly  dinner,  and  the  day  passed 
with  much  of  the  same  kind  of  festivity  by  which  it 
is  usually  distinguished  at  home ;  and,  to  the  credit 
of  the  men  be  it  spoken,  without  any  of  that  dis- 
order by  which  it  is  too  often  observed  by  seamen. 
A  piece  of  EngUsh  roast-beef,  which  formed  part 
of  the  officers'  dinner,  had  been  on  board  since  the 
preceding  May,  and  preserved  without  salt  during 
that  period,  merely  by  the  antiseptic  properties  of 
a  cold  atmosphere. 

A  great  many  frost-bites  occurred  about  this  time 
[Dec.  30],  principally  in  the  men's  feet,  even  when 


188  POLAR    REGIONS. 

they  had  been  walking  quickly  on  shore  for  exer- 
cise. On  examining  their  boots,  Mr  Edv^ards  re- 
marked, that  the  stiffness  of  the  thick  leather,  of 
which  they  were  made,  was  such  as  to  cramp  the 
feet,  and  prevent  the  circulation  from  going  on 
freely,  and  that  this  alone  was  sufficient  to  account 
for  their  feet  having  been  frost-bitten.  Being  very 
desirous  of  avoiding  these  accidents,  which,  from 
the  increased  sluggishness  with  which  the  sores 
healed,  were  more  and  more  likely  to  affect  the 
general  health  of  the  patients  by  long  confinement, 
Capt.  Parry  directed  a  pair  of  canvass  boots,  lined 
with  blanketing,  or  some  other  woollen  stuff,  to  be 
made  for  each  man,  using  raw  hide  as  soles ;  this 
completely  answered  the  desired  purpose,  as  scarce- 
ly any  frost-bites  in  the  feet  afterwards  occurred, 
except  under  circumstances  of  very  severe  exposure. 

The  preceding  accounts  of  the  manner  in  which 
the  time  wasb^'-employed,  and  of  the  occupations 
of  the  ships'  companies,  are  taken,  at  length,  from 
the  journal  of  Capt.  Parry,  and  given  almost  in  his 
own  w^ords.  We  deem  it  unnecessary  to  make  any 
addition.  If  what  has  been  related  does  not  confer 
honor  on  officers  and  men,  and  prove  them  emi- 
nently qualified  for  the  service  they  had  under- 
taken, we  have  formed  a  very  erroneous  judgment. 

On  the  first  of  January  scurvy  made  its  appear- 
ance among  them.  Mr  Scallon,  gunner  of  the  Hecla, 
had  complained  for  some  days,  and  the  symptoms 
were  now  decidedly  scorbutic.  It  was  found  to 
be  owing  to  the  dampness  of  his  bedding,  and 
proper  measures  were  taken  to  prevent  an  in- 
crease of  the   malady.      By  raising  mustard  and 


POLAR    REGIONS.  189 

cress  in  small  boxes  near  the  cabin  stove,  they 
were  able  to  give  Mr  Scallon  and  one  or  two  more 
patients  nearly  an  ounce  of  salad  per  day.  The 
vegetables  thus  raised  were  necessarily  colorless 
from  the  privation  of  light ;  but  they  had  the  same 
taste  as  if  raised  in  ordinary  circumstances.  So 
effectual  were  they  in  the  case  of  Mr  Scallon,  that 
he  recovered  in  less  than  a  fortnight. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  January  the  ther- 
mometer fell  to — 40%  and  at  noon  the  mercury 
sunk  to  — 49°.  Nevertheless,  the  weather  being  quite 
calm,  the  people  walked  on  shore  for  an  hour  with- 
out suffering  any  inconvenience,  the  sensation  of 
cold  depending  more  on  the  wind  than  the  tempe- 
rature. Our  own  observations  go  to  confirm  those 
of  Capt.  Parry  in  this  particular.  We  have  seen 
persons,  properly  clothed,  go  abroad  while  the 
thermometer  was  at  upwards  of  30°  below  zero, 
without  feeling  pain,  or  any  disagreable  sensation. 
A  wind,  though  the  temperature  may  be  fifty  de- 
grees higher,  is  ten-fold  more  inconvenient  and 
dangerous.  We  have  experienced  in  our  own  per- 
son, as  well  as  observed  in  others,  that  the  animal 
heat  is  always  sufficient  to  resist  any  natural  degree 
of  cold,  while  the  weather  is  calm. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month  they  began  to  look 
out  for  the  sun  from  the  mast  head.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  third  of  February,  the  weather  being 
clear,  a  cross,  consisting  of  the  usual  vertical  and 
horizontal  rays,  was  seen  about  the  moon.  At 
twenty  minutes  before  noon,  the  sun  was  seen  from 
the  Hecla's  maintop,  at  the  height  of  fiftyone  feet 


190  POLAR  REGIONS. 

above  the  sea,  being  the  first  time  it  had  been  seen 
for  eightyfour  days,  twelve  days  less  than  its  actual 
stay  below  the  horizon.  There  was  now,  from 
eight  o'clock  till  four,  sufficient  light  for  any  kind  of 
w^ork,  and  on  the  seventh  they  began  to  collect  bal- 
last for  the  Hecla,  to  make  up  for  the  expenditure 
of  stores. 

The  coldest  part  of  the  year  was  now  approach- 
ing ;  yet  the  sun  had  sufficient  power  to  affect  the 
thermometer,  which  rose  from  — 40°  to  — 35''  when 
exposed  to  its  rays.  The  distance  at  which  sounds 
were  heard  in  the  open  air  during  the  continuance 
of  this  intense  cold  was  truly  surprising.  Conver- 
sation carried  on  a  mile  off  could  be  distinctly 
heard.  The  smoke  from  the  ships,  too,  owing  to  the 
difficulty  it  has  to  rise  in  a  low  temperature,  was 
carried  horizontally  to  a  great  distance.  On  the 
15th,  the  mercury  sunk  to  55°  below  zero,  which 
was  the  most  intense  degree  of  cold  observed  dur- 
ing the  winter.  Mercury  was  malleable  in  this  state 
of  the  atmosphere. 

At  half  past  ten,  A.  M.  on  the  twentyfourth,  the 
house  on  shore  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire.  The 
flames  were  extinguished  by  the  men  in  a  few 
minutes,  but  at  the  expense  of  having  their  cheeks 
and  noses  frost-bitten,  so  that  sixteen  were  added  to 
the  sick  list.  One  of  them,  from  holding  a  com- 
pass he  had  saved  in  his  bare  hands,  froze  them 
so  badly  that  it  wa's  necessary  to  amputate  four 
fingers  from  one,  and  three  from  the  other.  Nor 
did  the  weather  permit  them  to  dig  out  the  things 
which  had  been  buried  in  the  ruins  of  the  house 


POLAR    REGIONS.  191 

till  the  first  of  March.  On  this  day  it  had  so  far 
moderated  as  to  allow  them  to  enjoy  a  walk  on  the 
hills,  and  on  the  6th  the  thermometer  rose  to  zero, 
a  higher  temperature  than  any  that  had  been  regis- 
tered since  the  17th  of  December.  On  the  seventh 
a  quantity  of  snow%  placed  in  a  very  favorable 
situation,  thawed,  and  the  people  took  advantage  of 
the  change  to  rebuild  the  house  on  shore. 

The  severe  weather  had  kept  all  the  vapor,  which 
had  accumulated  and  frozen  to  the  ship's  sides, 
below  deck  in  a  sohd  state,  till  now.  But  the  mild- 
ness of  the  weather  having  caused  a  thaw  below, 
it  became  necessary  to  scrape  off  the  coating  of 
ice.  In  one  day,  incredible  though  it  may  seem, 
no  less  than  a  hundred  buckets  full  were  removed, 
each  containing  from  five  to  six  gallons ;  the  accu- 
mulation of  less  than  four  weeks  1  It  may  be  ob- 
served that  this  vapor  was  produced,  principally  by 
the  men's  breaths,  and  by  the  steam  of  their  food 
during  meals,  that  from  the  coppers  being  effectu- 
ally carried  on  deck  by  the  apparatus  provided  for 
that  purpose. 

From  this  time  the  temperature  gradually  rose. 
The  last  use  of  the  theatre  was  made  by  performing 
The  Mayor  of  Garratt,  and  a  part  of  the  ship's 
roofings  w^as  removed  to  admit  the  light.  On  the 
20th,  two  gulls  were  seen,  and  on  the  twentythird, 
by  digging  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  harbour,  it 
was  found  that  the  ice  had  acquired  a  thickness  of 
six  feet  and  an  half  during  the  winter.  It  was  hard 
and  brittle. till  within  a  foot  of  the  lower  surface, 
where  it  was  soft  and  spongy.     The  length  of  the 


192  POLAR    REGIONS. 

days  had  so  much  increased  by  the  twentysixth, 
that  a  very  sensible  twilight  was  visible  in  the  north, 
and  the  weather  was  now  warm  enough  to  allow 
wet  silk  to  dry  on  deck. 

For  the  last  three  or  four  days  of  April,  the  snow 
on  the  black  cloth  of  the  housing  had  begun   to 
thaw^  a  little  during  a  few  hours  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  and  on  the  30th  so  rapid  a  change  took 
place  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  that 
the   thermometer   stood  at  the  freezing,  or,  as  it 
may  more  properly  be  termed  in  this  climate,  the 
thawing  point,  being  the  first  time  that  such  an 
event   had   occurred  for  nearly  eight  months,   or 
since  the  9th  of  the  preceding  September.     This 
temperature  was  so  much  like  that  of  summer,  that 
Capt.  Parry  was  under  the  necessity  of  using  his 
authority  to  prevent  the  men  from  making  such  an 
alteration  in  their  clothing  as  might  have  been  at- 
tended with  very  dangerous  consequences.     The 
thermometer  had  ranged  from  —32°  to  +  32°  in  the 
course  of  twenty  days.     There  was,  at  this  period, 
more  snow  upon  the  ground  than  at  any  other  time 
of  the  year,  the  average  depth  on  the  lower  part  of 
the  land  being  four  or  five  inches,  but  much  less 
upon  the  hills ;  while  in  the  ravines   a  very  large 
quantity   had  been  collected.     The   snow  at  this 
time  became  so  soft,  from  the  influence  of  the  sun 
upon  it,  as  to  make  walking  very  laborious  and  un- 
pleasant. 

This  rapid  change  in  the  weather  revived  their 
hopes  of  a  speedy  departure  from  Melville  Island, 
and  they  all  had  sanguine  expectations  of  leaving 
their  winter-quarters  before  July. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  193 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Return  of  the  Migratory  Animals  to  Melville  Island.— Snow  Blindness.— 
The  Hecla  freed  from  the  Ice.— Gardening.— Journey  to  explore  Mel- 
ville Island. 

On  the  1st  of  May,  however,  it  blew  a  gale  from 
the  northward,  and  the  sun  was  seen  at  midnight 
for  the  first  time  that  season.  The  storm  con- 
tinued all  the  next  day,  and  the  snow  fell  so  deep 
as  to  bury  the  house  on  shore  completely.  On  the 
6th,  the  people  began  the  operation  of  cutting  the 
ships  out  of  the  harbor.  In  order  to  prevent  the 
men  from  suffering  from  wet  and  cold  feet,  a  pair 
of  boots  and  stockings  were  given  to  each,  being 
part  of  a  complete  suit  which  had  been  supplied,  to 
be  issued  to  the  ships'  companies  gratis,  should  oc- 
casion require.  And  as  the  expedition  had  been 
victualled  for  two  years  only,  one  of  which  had 
now  expired,  Capt.  Parry  thought  it  proper  to  re- 
duce the  daily  rations  to  two  thirds  of  the  estab- 
lished proportion,  to  which  reduction  both  officers 
and  men  cheerfully  submitted. 

On  the  12th,  one  of  the  men  reported  that  he 
had  seen  a  ptarmigan,  which  was  hailed  as  a  sure 
omen  of  returning  summer.  The  next  day  one 
was  killed  ;  and,  in  a  day  or  two  more,  the  tracks  of 
reindeer  and  musk-oxen  were  discovered ;  indi- 
cating that  these  animals  had  commenced  their 
journey  to  the  north.  The  time  of  their  return  to 
17 


194  POLAR   REGIONS. 

Melville  Island  was  thus  ascertained,  and  it  was 
suggested  that  the  time  of  their  migration  had  oc- 
curred with  the  first  fine  weather  after  the  com- 
mencement of  constant  day-light.  As  it  was  im- 
portant that  all  the  game  they  might  procure  should 
be  served  out  in  heu  of  the  ordinary  stores,  it 
was  ordered  that  all  game  killed  should  be  public 
property,  and  as  such  should  be  issued  like  any 
other  provision. 

Some  of  the  men  were  now  afflicted  with  a  dis- 
ease common  in  all  the  northern  desert  parts  of 
America.  This  is  a  painful  inflammation  of  the 
eyes,  supposed  to  be  occasioned  by  the  reflection  of 
intense  light  from  the  snow,  aided  by  the  heat  of  the 
sun.  The  sensation  resembles  that  of  sand  in  the 
eyes,  and  we  have  seen  it  in  some  instances  result  in 
a  total  and  permanent  loss  of  sight.  As  a  preven- 
tive of  this  complaint,  a  piece  of  black  crape,  to  be 
worn  as  a  veil,  was  given  to  each  man,  and  was 
found  to  be  very  serviceable.  This  fashion  is  in 
vogue  all  over  the  northwest. 

On  the  17th,  the  operation  of  cutting  the  ice 
round  the  Hecla  was  completed,  in  the  following 
manner :  the  ice  alongside  the  ships  was  found  to 
be  six  feet  thick,  and  they  began  by  digging  a  large 
hole  under  the  stern  in  order  to  enter  the  saw.  This 
occupied  two  days,  as  few  could  work  at  it  at  once  ; 
but  in  the  mean  time  all  the  snow  and  rubbish  was 
cleared  away  from  the  ship's  side,  leaving  only  the 
solid  ice  to  work  upon.  A  trench,  two  feet  wide, 
was  cut  the  whole  length  of  the  starboard  side, 
from  the  stem  to  the  rudder,  keeping  within  an  inch 


POLAR    REGIONS.  195 

or  two  of  the  bends,  and  taking  care  here  and  there 
to  leave  a  dike,  to  prevent  the  water  which  might 
ooze  into  one  part  from  filUng  up  the  others  in 
which  the  men  were  working.  In  this  manner  was 
the  trench  cut  with  axes,  to  the  depth  of  about 
four  feet  and  a  half,  leaving  only  eighteen  inches 
for  the  saws  to  cut,  except  in  those  places  where 
the  dikes  remained.  The  saw,  being  then  entered 
in  the  hole  under  the  stern,  was  worked  in  the 
usual  manner,  being  suspended  by  a  triangle  made 
of  three  spars ;  one  cut  being  made  on  the  outer 
part  of  the  trench,  and  a  second  within  an  inch  or 
two  of  the  bends,  in  order  to  avoid  injuring  the 
planks.  A  small  portion  of  ice  being  broken  off 
now  and  then  by  bars,  handspikes,  and  ice-chisels, 
floated  to  the  surface,  and  was  hooked  out  by 
piecemeal.  This  operation  was  a  cold  and  tedious 
one,  and  required  nine  days  to  complete  it.  When 
the  workmen  had  this  morning  completed  the  trench 
within  ten  or  twelve  feet  of  the  stern,  the  ship  sud- 
denly disengaged  herself  from  the  ice,  to  which 
she  had  before  been  firmly  adhering  on  the  larboard 
side,  and  rose  in  the  water  about  ten  inches  abaft, 
and  nearly  eighteen  inches  forward,  with  a  con- 
siderable surge.  This  disengagement,  to  which 
the  sailors  naturally  applied  the  term  *  launching,' 
confirmed  the  supposition,  that  the  ship  was  held  so 
fast  by  the  ice,  as  to  make  it  dangerous  to  alter 
materially  the  stowage  of  the  holds,  but  in  a  man- 
ner the  very  reverse  of  what  had  been  appre- 
hended. This  circumstance,  however,  on  consid- 
eration,  it  was  not   difficult  to   explain.     In   the 


196  POLAR    REGIONS. 

course  of  the  winter,  the  strong  eddy  winds  about 
the  ships  had  formed  round  them  a  drift  of  snow, 
seven  or  eight  feet  deep  in  some  parts,  and,  per- 
haps, weighing  a  hundred  tons ;  by  which  the  ice, 
and  the  ships  with  it,  were  carried  down  much  be- 
low the  natural  level  at  which  they  would  other- 
wise have  floated.  In  the  mean  time  the  ships  had 
become  considerably  lighter,  from  the  expenditure 
of  several  months'  provisions  ;  so  that,  on  both 
these  accounts,  they  had  naturally  a  tendency  to 
rise  in  the  w^ater  as  soon  as  they  were  set  at  lib- 
erty. 

The  ships  being  once  more  afloat,  a  strict  sur- 
vey was  held  on  all  the  provisions  and  stores,  and  the 
lading  was  properly  adjusted.  In  the  mean  time 
a  party  were  engaged  in  breaking  stones  for  bal- 
last, and  the  other  necessary  works  went  on  with 
great  activity.  It  was  found  requisite  to  caulk  the 
upper  works  of  both  ships,  the  frost  having  opened 
the  seams  very  much.  At  the  same  time,  Capt. 
Parry  laid  out  a  small  garden,  and  planted  it  with 
antiscorbutic  plants ;  but  the  attempt  failed  utterly, 
so  that  their  farming  was  necessarily,  confined  to 
the  cabin,  where  mustard  and  cress  could  be  rais- 
ed without  difficulty.  Peas,  however,  grew  on  the 
shore,  big  enough  to  have  been  eaten  as  greens,  if 
they  had  been  sowed  in  abundance. 

On  the  twentyfirst,  some  of  the  officers  took  a 
walk  inland,  and  were  able  to  fill  a  pint  bottle  with 
water  from  a  pool  of  melted  snow,  which  was  the 
first  they  had  seen  ;  a  proof  of  the  extreme  severi- 
ty of  the  chmate.     They  also   discovered  roots  of 


POLAR    REGIONS.  197 

wild  sorrel  growing  in  plenty ;  but  it  had  not  yet 
begun  to  vegetate. 

On  the  24th,  the  clouds  seemed  to  bode  rain,  and 
in  the  evening  several  showers  fell,  making  numerous 
little  pools  upon  the  ice,  which  now  remained  un- 
frozen twelve  or  fourteen  hours  every  day,  as  did 
also  the  sea  water  round  the  ships.  Gulls  too  were 
seen. 

Thinking,  very  justly,  that  an  examination  of 
the  interior  of  the  island  would  be  conducive  to 
the  improvement  of  the  geography  and  natural  his- 
tory of  these  regions,  and  the  health  of  the  seamen 
allowing  a  number  to  be  spared  from  each  ship, 
Capt.  Parry  determined  on  an  excursion.  A  cart 
was  constructed  to  convey  the  tents  and  baggage, 
which  answered  the  purpose  very  well ;  and  on  the 
first  of  June  the  Captain  set  off  w^ith  a  party  of 
twelve  volunteers,  and  a  supply  of  provisions  for 
three  weeks.  They  were  furnished  with  two  tents 
and  a  small  quantity  of  fuel  for  the  purpose  of 
cookery,  and  each  carried  a  blanket  and  a  few  spare 
articles  of  clothing. 

The  course  of  the  party  was  directly  north. 
They  found  those  parts  where  the  snow  had  disap- 
peared more  productive  than  the  vicinity  of  Winter 
Harbour ;  the  dwarf  willow,  sorrel  and  poppy  being 
more  abundant,  and  the  moss  more  luxuriant.  Af- 
ter proceeding  some  miles  inland,  they  came  to  an 
extensive  plain,  covered  with  snow,  and  terminated 
by  a  chain  of  lofty  hills.  This  plain  they  judged 
to  be  three  or  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  They  travelled  slowly  northward  for  six 
17* 


198  POLAR    REGIONS. 

days,  before  they  reached  the  north  shore  of  the 
island.  They  found  the  earth  covered  with  snow 
quite  across,  excepting  in  a  few  exposed  spots,  and 
the  only  animals  they  savv  vvere  reindeer. 

From  the  northern  coast  a  high  island  was  seen, 
which  was  named   after  Captain  Sabine.     Having 
thus  ascertained  the  extent  of  Melville  Island,  the 
party   directed   their   course   westward.     As  they 
proceeded  alongshore  in  this  direction,  they  found 
the   soil   richer,    and   vegetation   more    abundant. 
Many  species  of  birds  were  seen,   and  musk-oxen 
were  observed,  as  well  as  reindeer.     The  tracks  of 
mice,  hares,  wolves,  and  foxes  were  abundant,  and 
the  sites  of  six  Esquimaux  tents  w^ere  also  discov- 
ered.    They  consisted  of  rude  circles  of  stones,  of 
all   sizes    and   shapes,   raised   two    feet   from   the 
ground  :  they  were  paved  with  large  slabs  of  sand- 
stone, which  is  very  abundant  on  Melville  Island. 
They    appeared   not   to    have  been   occupied   for 
several  years,  for  a  thick  coat  of  moss  had  grown 
upon  the  stones.     In  each  of  the  huts  was  a  sepa- 
rate compartment,  forming  a  recess  projecting  out- 
ward ;  and  at   a  few  feet  from  one  of  them  was  a 
smaller  circle  of  stones,  which  had  probably  been 
a  fire-place  ;  for  the  marks   of  fire  were  distinctly 
visible.     The  huts  that  Capt.  Parry  had  previously 
6een,  in  this  and  the  former  voyage,  had  each  one 
of  these   small  circles    attached.     Thus   it   would 
seem  that  no  part  of  the  northern  regions  is  too 
cold  and  inhospitable  to  preclude  the  visits  of  the 
Esquimaux,   though  it  may   be   doubted   whether 
they  ever  abide  permanently  on  Melville  Island  or 
the  surrounding  lands. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  199 

On  the  14th,  the  party  reached  Winter  Harbour. 
The  results  of  the  expedition  were,  that  the  extent 
and  geographical  features  of  this  island  were  ascer- 
tained, as  well  as  its  capacity  to  sustain  animal  and 
vegetable  life.  Several  bays  and  capes  were  also 
discovered,  to  which  names  were  given,  as  usual. 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

Progress  of  the  Season.— State  of  the  Ice. — Damage  received  by  the  Rud- 
ders of  the  Ships. 

The  equipment  of  the  ships  had  gone  on  satisfac- 
torily during  Capt.  Parry's  absence — both  vessels 
being  nearly  ready  for  sea.  The  survey  of  the 
provisions  and  stores  was  completed,  and  the  whole 
were  found  in  as  good  order  as  when  they  left 
England,  with  the  exception  only  of  a  small  quan- 
tity of  bread  and  sugar,  which  w  as  not,  however,  so 
far  damaged  as  to  be  unfit  to  be  eaten.  This  high 
state  of  preservation  must  undoubtedly  be  attri- 
buted to  the  antiseptic  qualities  of  a  cold  climate, 
which  is  unfavorable  to  the  process  of  putrefac- 
tion, and  to  the  generation  of  verm.in, — and  to  the 
care  which  had  been  taken  to  supply  the  ships  with 
articles  of  the  best  quality,  packed  in  the  best  pos- 
sible manner.  As  to  vermin,  neither  mouse,  rat,  ^r 
maggot,  was  seen  on  board  during  the  voyage.  # 

A  perceptible  change  had  now  taken  place  in 
the  ice.     The  upper  surface  was  covered  with  in- 


200  POLAR    REGIONS. 

numerable  pools  of  brackish  wate.^,  so  that  the  lib- 
eration of  the  sea  might  be  daily  expected.  Being 
desirous  of  obtaining  as  much  game  as  possible 
during  the  remainder  of  the  time  that  must  be 
passed  in  Winter  Harbour,  Capt.  Parry  sent  out 
hunting  parties  to  remain  ten  or  twelve  miles  inland, 
with  orders  to  send  whatever  game  they  might  pro- 
cure to  the  ships,  and  also  to  observe  the  ice  from 
the  hill  tops,  and  report  any  change  that  might  take 
place.  Sorrel  being  now  far  enough  advanced 
to  be  eaten,  two  afternoons  in  each  week  were 
ordered  to  be  set  apart  for  the  purpose  of  collect- 
ing it,  and  each  man  w^as  required  to  bring  in  one 
ounce,  to  be  served  out  in  Heu  of  lemon  juice, 
pickles,  &:c.  From  this  time  the  growth  of  the 
sorrel  was  so  rapid  that  a  man  could  easily  pick 
nearly  a  pound  of  this  valuable  antiscorbutic,  of 
which  all  were  very  fond.  The  leaves  were  eaten 
in  various  ways,  such  as  pickles,  salad — in  puddings, 
or  boiled  in  the  manner  of  greens ;  in  all  of  which 
modes  it  was  always  used,  when  it  could  be  pro- 
cured. 

On  the  eighteenth,  the  first  reindeer  killed  this 
season  was  brought  in,  and  a  second  followed  on 
the  19th.  They  were  very  lean,  not  more  than 
sixty  pounds  of  flesh  being  found  on  either  of  them. 
By  the  20th  the  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
ships  w^as  covered  with  the  purple  flow^ers  of  the 
s'axifraga  oppositifolia.  The  ravines,  with  which 
th^  surface  of  tlie  whole  island  is  intersected,  w^ere 
now  discharging  torrents  of  melted  snow  into  the 
sea ;  but  still  the  ice  held  on. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  201 

The  suddenness  of  the  changes  of  the  climate 
was  strikingly  exemphfied  by  this  circumstance  ;  for 
not  more  than  a  fortnight  before  they  had  been  un- 
der the  necessity  of  thawing  the  snow  when  they 
wanted  water  to  drink. 

Aquatic  fowls  made  their  appearance,  and  more 
reindeer  were  killed.  The  horns  of  the  males  were 
in  the  velvet,  that  is,  covered  with  a  soft,  downy 
skin.  The  horns  themselves  were  soft,  and  near 
the  tips  flexible  and  easily  broken.  Foxes  also 
were  seen,  and  the  bones  of  whales  were  found  on 
shore  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  sea,  whith- 
er they  had  probably  been  carried  by  the  Esqui- 
maux. The  dissolution  of  the  ice  continued  daily, 
and  on  the  22d,  it  was  observed  to  be  in  motion 
in  the  offing,  setting  to  the  eastward  at  the  rate  of 
a  mile  an  hour. 

On  the  27th,  one  of  the  men,  by  name  Scott,  who 
had  long  been  afflicted  with  scurvy,  died.  A  post 
mortem  examination  proved  his  disease  to  have 
been  such  as  would  have  baffled  the  utmost  skill 
and  attention,  in  any  climate,  or  under  any  circum- 
stances. For  the  last  two  or  three  days,  the  spring- 
tides, which  had  been  unusually  high,  overflowed 
the  ice  near  the  beach,  so  as  to  make  it  difficult  to 
land  near  high  water.  In  the  general  appearance 
of  the  ice  in  the  harbour,  there  was  no  perceptible 
alteration  from  day  to  day,  though  the  thawing  pro- 
cess was  going  on  with  great  rapidity.  The  officer 
in  command  of  the  hunting  party  to  the  southwest, 
received  strict  injunctions  to  watch  the  ice  con- 
stantly, and  to  make  an  immediate  report  of  any 


202  POLAR    REGIONS. 

appearance  of  open  water  in  any  direction.  For 
the  last  four  or  five  days  in  June,  they  had  experi- 
enced more  southerly  wind  than  usual,  the  weather 
being  generally  cloudy,  with  much  small  rain,  and 
now  and  then  a  little  snow ;  the  general  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere,  however,  was  pleasant  and  com- 
fortable to  the  feelings,  as  well  as  favorable  to  the 
dissolution  of  the  ice,  for  which  they  were  so  anx- 
iously looking. 

One  of  Mr  Nias's  party  arrived  from  the  eastward 
on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  July,  with  a  good  sup- 
ply of  hares,  ducks,  and  ptarmigans.  He  had  seen 
above  fifty  deer  in  three  days,  but  they  were  too 
wild  to  allow  the  party  to  get  near  them,  in  a  coun- 
try without  the  smallest  cover  of  any  kind. 

A  herd  of  fourteen  deer  being  seen  near  the 
ships,  a  party  was  despatched  in  pursuit  of  them, 
with  the  customary  want  of  success,  it  being  almost 
impossible  to  approach  them  in  so  open  and  ex- 
posed a  country,  so  that  these  excursions  generally 
ended  in  a  chase  between  the  men  and  the  deer ; 
some  good  dogs  would,  perhaps,  have  been  service- 
able on  these  occasions. 

Having  taken  on  board  the  bower  anchors  and 
cables  from  the  beach,  on  account  of  the  difficulty 
they  should  have  found  in  removing  them  after  the 
ice  began  to  break  up,  each  ship  placed  two  stream 
anchors  on  shore  with  hawsers  from  the  bow  and 
quarter,  to  hold  them  in  case  of  any  sudden  motion 
of  the  ice,  the  pools  upon  which  now  increased  very 
perceptibly  both  in  depth  and  extent  from  day  to 
day.    In  looking  into  these  pools,  it   always  ap- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  203 

peared,  during  the  day,  as  if  drops  of  rain  were 
falling  into  them ;  this  was  caused  by  the  continual 
extrication  of  air  from  the  ice  which  was  thawing 
below,  and  by  the  rising  of  the  bubbles  to  the  sur- 
face. At  six,  P.  M.  the  atmosphere  being  clear  and 
serene,  the  thermometer  rose  to  53°  in  the  shade, 
but  immediately  on  a  moderate  breeze  springing 
up  from  the  northward  it  fell  to  45°.  On  the  5th 
and  6th,  however,  it  stood  for  three  hours  from  50° 
to  52°,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  northward, 
accompanied  by  cloudy  weather ;  and  on  the  after- 
noons of  the  two  following  days,  the  wind  being  still 
northerly,  the  atmosphere  continued  for  some  time 
at  the  temperature  of  55'', 

The  dissolution  of  the  ice  of  the  harbour  went 
on  so  rapidly  in  the  early  part  of  July,  that  they 
were  greatly  surprised,  on  the  6th,  in  finding,  that 
in  several  of  the  pools  of  water,  on  its  upper  sur- 
face, holes  were  washed  quite  through  to  the  sea 
beneath.  On  examining  several  of  these,  it  was 
found  that  the  average  thickness  of  the  ice,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  harbour,  where  the  ships  were 
lyingj  did  not  exceed  two  feet,  which  was  much 
less  than  they  had  any  idea  of.  Towards  the  mouth 
of  the  harbour,  however,  where  the  water  was  deeper, 
no  such  holes  made  their  appearance  for  some  days 
after  this.  It  must  here  be  remarked,  that  in  all 
cases  they  found  the  ice  to  be  first  thawed  and 
broken  up  in  the  shoalest  water,  in  consequence, 
perhaps,  of  the  greater  facility  with  which  the 
ground,  at  a  small  depth  below  the  surface  of  the 
sea,  absorbed  and  radiated  the  heat  of  the  sun's 


204  POLAR    REGIONS. 

rays ;  and,  as  it  is  in  such  situations  that  water 
generally  freezes  first,  this  circumstance  seems  a 
remarkable  instance  of  the  provision  of  nature  for 
maintaining  such  a  balance  in  the  quantity  of  ice 
annually  formed  and  dissolved,  as  shall  prevent  any 
undue  or  extraordinary  accumulation  of  it  in  any 
part  of  the  polar  regions  of  the  earth.  In  con- 
sequence of  this  circumstance,  they  were  now  en- 
abled, for  the  first  time,  to  bring  the  boats  down  to 
the  beach,  so  as  to  allow  them  to  float  at  high 
water,  in  order  to  prevent  their  being  split  by  the 
sun,  w^hile  in  every  other  part  of  the  harbour,  ex- 
cept thus  near  the  shore,  they  had  not  the  means 
of  doing  so  till  some  days  afterwards. 

On  unhanging  the  rudders,  and  hauling  them  up 
on  the  ice  for  examination,  they  were  found  a  good 
deal  shaken  and  grazed  by  the  blows  they  had  re- 
ceived during  the  time  the  ships  were  beset  at  the 
entrance  of  Davis'  Strait.  It  was  found,  also,  that 
the  rudder-cases  in  both  ships  had  been  fitted  too 
small,  occasioning  considerable  difficulty  in  getting 
the  rudders  down  when  working — a  circumstance 
by  no  means  disadvantageous,  (perhaps,  indeed, 
rather  the  contrary,)  on  ordinary  service  at  sea, 
but  which  should  be  carefully  avoided  in  ships  in- 
tended for  the  navigation  among  ice,  as  it  is  fre- 
quently necessary  to  unship  the  rudder  at  a  short 
notice,  in  order  to  preserve  it  from  injury,  as  future 
experience  was  soon  to  teach  them.  This  fault 
was,  however,  soon  remedied,  and  the  rudders 
again  hung,  in  readiness  for  sea.  About  this  time, 
a  few  flocks  of  loons  occasionally  made  their  ap- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  205 

pearance,  invariably  flying  quite  round  the  harbour, 
exactly  over  the  narrow  and  only  strip  of  water 
next  the  beach,  as  if  looking  out  for  food. 


CHAPTER  Xir. 

A  Boat  passes  between  the  Ships  and  the  Shore. — Maximum  Heert  at  Mef- 
ville  Island. — The  Vessels  are  made  ready  for  Departure. — They 
weigh  Anchor. — Departure  from  Winter  Harbour. — Are  stopped  by  the 
Ice. — Descriptioiv  of  a  Part  of  the  Shore. 

On  the  14th  of  the  month,  a  boat  passed,  for  the  first 
time,  between  the  ships  and  the  shore,  in  consequence 
of  the  junction  of  a  number  of  the  pools  and  holes 
in  the  ice ;  and  on  the  following  day  the  same  kind 
of  communication  was  practicable  between  the 
ships.  It  became  necessary,  therefore,,  to  provide 
against  the  possibility  of  the  ships  being  forced  on 
shore  by  the  total  disruption  of  the  ice  between 
them  and  the  beach,  and  the  pressure  of  that  with- 
out, by  letting  go  a  bower-anchor  underfoot,  which 
was  accordingly  done  as  soon  as  there  was  a  hole 
in  the  ice  under  the  bows  of  each,  sufficiently  large 
to  allow  the  anchors  to  pass  through.  They  had 
now  been  quite  ready  for  sea  for  some  days ;  and 
a  regular  and  anxious  look-out  was  kept  from  the 
crow's  nest  for  any  alteration  in  the  state  of  the  ice, 
which  might  favor  a  departure  from  Winter  Harbour, 
in  which  it  now  became  more  than  probable  that 
they  were  destined  to  be  detained  thus  inactive 
for  a  part  of  each  month  in  the  whole  year,  as 
18 


206  POLAR  REGIONS. 

they  had  reached  it  in  the  latter  part  of  September, 
and  were  likely  to  be  prevented  from  leaving  it  till 
after  the  commencement  of  August. 

From  six,  A.M.  till  six,  P.M.  on  the  17th,  the 
thermometer  stood  generally  from  56''  to  60°;  the 
latter  temperature  being  the  highest  which  appears 
in  the  Hecla's  Meteorological  Journal  during  this 
summer.  It  will  readily  be  conceived  how  pleasant 
such  a  temperature  must  have  been  to  their  feelings 
after  the  severe  winter  which  immediately  preceded 
it.  The  month  of  July  is,  indeed,  the  only  one 
which  can  be  called  at  all  comfortable  in  the  cli- 
mate of  Melville  Island. 

On  the  eighteenth,  Capt.  Parry  rowed  round  the 
harbour  in  a  boat,  and  took  the  soundings  wherever 
the  ice  would  permit.  The  channel  was  daily  be- 
coming wider,  especially  after  a  breeze  from  any 
quarter,  causing  a  ripple  on  the  sea,  by  which  the 
edge  of  the  ice  was  rapidly  washed  away.  On  the 
20th,  a  strong  breeze  from  the  N.  N.  E.  together 
with  a  fog  and  rain,  all  favorable  to  the  dispersion 
of  the  ice,  removed  that  part  of  it  immediately 
round  the  Hecla  from  which  she  had  been  artifi- 
cially detached  so  long  before,  so  that  the  ship  was 
once  more  riding  at  anchor.  The  Griper  had  pre- 
viously been  set  free  in  the  same  manner.  Yet 
the  ice  still  occupied  the  whole  centre  of  the  har- 
bour, and  it  was  only  where  the  ships  were  lying 
that  it  had  separated  at  so  great  a  distance  from 
the  shore ;  occasioned,  probably,  by  the  radiation 
of  heat  from  the  vessel  and  from  the  various  arti- 
cles which  had  been  deposited  upon  the  ice  around 
them. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  207 

Thus  they  continued  for  some  days  longer.  The 
ice  in  the  harbour  became  detached  from  the  shore 
at  every  point,  but  a  quantity  forced  up  upon  a  reef 
to  the  south,  by  the  pressure  of  the  external  ice, 
proved  that  it  had  some  room  in  which  to  acquire 
motion.  On  the  24th,  Capt.  Parry  ordered  the 
sails  to  be  bent,  in  readiness  to  start  at  a  moment's 
warning ;  rather  with  a  view  to  encourage  the  men, 
than  with  any  prospect  of  departure  ;  for  it  could 
not  be  concealed  that  in  eight  or  nine  weeks  more, 
the  navigable  season  would  arrive  at  its  conclu- 
sion. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  there  being  a  space 
of  clear  water  for  three  quarters  of  a  mile  to  the 
southward,  they  took  advantage  of  a  northern  breeze 
to  run  as  far  as  the  opening  would  permit,  and  then 
dropped  anchor  at  the  edge  of  the  ice,  intending  to 
advance  step  by  step  as  it  separated.  The  ice 
across  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  in  this  spot,  as 
well  as  that  in  the  offing,  appeared  from  the  crow's 
nest  quite  continuous  and  unbroken,  with  the  same 
appearance  of  solidity  as  at  midwinter. 

On  the  30th,  the  whole  body  of  the  ice  was  in 
motion  toward  the  southeast,  breaking  away,  for 
the  first  time,  from  the  points  at  the  entrance  of  the 
harbour.  This  rendering  it  probable  that  the  ships 
would  soon  be  released,  Capt.  Parry  furnished 
Lieut.  Liddon  with  instructions  for  his  guidance 
during  the  coming  season  of  operations,  and  ap- 
pointed places  of  rendezvous  in  case  of  separa- 
tion. 

On  the  first  of  August,  the  harbour  was  clear  of 


208  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ice,  and  there  appeared  to  be  water  in  the  direc- 
tion of  their  intended  course.  At  one,  P.  M.  every- 
thing having  been  brought  on  board,  they  weighed 
anchor  and  ran  out  of  Winter  Harbour,  in  which 
they  had  passed  ten  entire  months  of  the  year,  and 
a  part  of  the  two  remaining  ones,  September  and 
August. 

In  running  along  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
from  the  land,  they  were  pleased  to  see  that  the 
coast  to  the  w^estward  was  more  clear  of  ice  than 
it  had  been  when  they  arrived  the  preceding  year, 
a  month  later ;  the  main  ice  being  blown  away  by 
the  late  winds  to  the  distance  of  four  or  five  miles 
from  the  shore.  The  navigable  channel  between 
the  ice  and  the  land  was  from  one  to  two  and  a 
half  miles  wide,  and  seemed  from  the  mast  head  to 
continue  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  to  the  west- 
ward. 

After  a  few  tacks,  they  had  the  mortification  to 
perceive  that  the  Griper  sailed  much  worse  than 
before,  though  great  pains  had  been  taken  during 
her  re-equipment  to  improve  her  quahties.  By 
midnight  the  Hecla  had  gained  eight  miles  to  wind- 
ward of  her,  and  was  obhged  to  heave  to,  to  avoid 
parting  company. 

A  southerly  wind  springing  up  the  next  day, 
made  it  probable  that  the  ice  would  close  in  upon 
the  ships,  and  they  therefore  began  to  look  out  for 
a  situation  where  they  might  be  secured  in-shore, 
behind  some  of  the  heavy  grounded  ice.  At  one 
o'clock  they  perceived  that  a  heavy  floe  had  al- 
ready closed  completely  in  with  the  land  at  a  point 


POLAR    REGIONS.  209 

a  little  to  the  westward  of  them.  A  proper  place 
having  been  found  for  their  purpose,  the  ships 
were  hauled  in  and  secured,  the  Griper's  bow  rest- 
ing on  the  beach,  in  order  to  allow^  the  Hecla  to  lie 
in  security  without  her.  This  place  was  so  com- 
pletely sheltered  from  the  accession  of  the  main  ice, 
that  Capt.  Parry  began  to  think  of  taking  the  Gri- 
per's crew  on  board  the  Hecla,  and  pursuing  the 
voyage  in  that  ship  alone. 

Shortly  after  anchoring,  the  Griper's  people  heard 
the  growling  of  a  bear  among  the  ice  near  them, 
but  the  animal  did  not  appear.  This  was  the  only 
instance  of  meeting  with  a  bear  during  their  stay  at 
Melville  Island,  excepting  the  one  that  followed  a 
man  to  the  ships,  immediately  after  their  arrival,  as 
before  mentioned. 

No  alteration  in  the  position  of  the  ice  took  place 
on  the  3d,  but  at  one,  A.  M.  on  the  4th,  the  loose 
ice  drifted  in  upon  them,  the  wind  having  veered  to 
the  north.  Soon  after,  a  floe,  of  not  less  than  five 
miles  in  length,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  across,  was 
found  to  be  approaching  the  shore,  at  a  quick  rate. 
The  ships  were  immediately  hauled  as  near  the 
shore  as  possible,  and  preparation  made  for  un- 
shipping the  rudders,  if  necessary.  The  floe  was 
brought  up,  however,  by  the  masses  of  ice  aground 
outside,  with  which  it  successively  came  in  contact, 
and  the  ships  remained  in  perfect  security;  the 
floe,  as  usual  after  the  first  violence  is  over,  moved 
off"  again  to  a  litde  distance  from  the  shore.  The 
meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  gave  the  latitude  of 
18* 


210  POLAR    REGIONS. 

this  station  74**  36'  06",  and  the  longitude,  by  the 
chronometers,  was  11  r  16'  39". 

At  noon,  the  heavy  floe  at  the  point  near  the 
ships  began  to  quit  the  land,  and  at  half-past  one, 
P.  M.,  there  being  a  narrow  passage  between  them, 
the  breadth  of  which  the  breeze  was  constantly  in- 
creasing, they  cast  off  and  stretched  to  the  west- 
ward.    The  channel,  which  opened  as  they  pro- 
ceeded, varied  in  its  general  breadth  from  one  to 
two  miles ;  in  some  places  it  was  not  more  than 
half  a  mile.     The  soundings  were  very  regular,  and 
sufficiently  deep  close  to  the  shore ;  in  one  place 
they   found   twentythree  fathoms  at  one  hundred 
yards  from  the  beach,  in  another,  fourteen,  at  sixty 
or  seventy  yards.     At  seven,  P.  M.,  they  passed  the 
place  were  they  had  been  detained  so  long  the 
preceding  September,  and  where  a  party  had  been 
lost.     The  wind  was  variable,  but  they  made  con- 
siderable progress  along  the  land  to  the  southwest. 
At  eleven,  P.  M.,  they  had  got  just  far  enough  to 
see  that  there  was  a  free  and  open  channel  beyond 
the  westernmost   visible  point  of  Melville  Island, 
when  the  wind  fell,  andjprevented  them  from  taking 
advantage  of  it. 

They  had  this  evening  occasion  to  observe  once 
more  that  darkness  in  the  horizon  to  the  southward, 
which  had  been  noticed  from  this  station  in  1819, 
and  more  frequently  since  that  time,  during  their 
detention  in  Winter  Harbour,  as  bearing  a  great  re- 
semblance to  the  loom  of  land  in  that  quarter.  They 
were  the  more  inclined  to  the  belief  that  there  was 
land  at  no  very  great  distance  to  the  southward, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  211 

from  the  conviction  that  there  must  be  something 
which  prevented  the  ice  being  drifted  off  the  shore 
of  Melville  Island,  more  than  five  or  six  miles,  with 
any  direction  or  force  of  wind. 

At  one,  P.  M.,  the  weather  continuing  quite  calm, 
and  being  desirous  of  examining  the  ice  in-shore, 
that  they  might  be  ready  for  the  floes  closing  upon 
them,  Capt.  Parry  left  the  ship,  accompanied  by 
Captain  Sabine  and  Mr.  Edwards,  and  landed  near 
one  of  the  numerous  deep  and  broad  ravines,  with 
which  the  whole  of  this  part  of  the  island  is  in- 
dented. All  the  ice  which  was  here  fixed  to  the 
ground  was  literally  upon  the  beach,  with  very 
deep  water  close  alongside  of  it,  and  none  of  the 
masses  projected  to  a  sufficient  distance  from  the 
shore  to  afford  the  smallest  shelter  to  the  ships  in 
case  of  accidents.  They  saw  several  white  hares 
here,  and  on  this  and  many  subsequent  occa- 
sions found  them  frequent  the  sides  of  the  high 
banks  which  face  the  south,  and  where  there  is 
usually  a  plentiful  vegetation  for  them  to  feed  upon. 
They  were  ascending  the  hill,  which  was  found  by 
trigonometrical  measurement  to  be  eight  hundred 
and  fortyseven  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
on  which  they  found  no  mineral  production  but 
r-  sand-stone  and  clay  iron-stone,  when  a  breeze  sprung 
P  up  from  the  eastward,  bringing  up  the  Griper, 
which  had  been  left  several  miles  astern.  They 
only  stopped,  therefore,  to  obtain  observations 
for  the  longitude  and  the  variation  of  the  mag- 
netic needle ;  the  former  of  which  was  112°  58'  32", 
and  the  latter  110°  56'  11"  easterly,  and  then  imme- 


212  POLAR    REGIONS. 

diately  returned  on  board,  and  made  all  sail  to  the 
westward.  After  running  for  two  hours  without  ob- 
struction, they  were  once  more  mortified  in  per- 
ceiving that  the  ice,  in  very  extensive  and  unusually 
heavy  floes,  closed  in  with  the  land  a  little  to  the 
westward,  and  the  channel  of  clear  water  between 
the  ice  and  the  land  gradually  diminished  in  breadth 
till  at  length  it  became  necessary  to  take  in  the 
studding  sails,  and  to  haul  to  the  wind,  to  look 
about.  Capt.  Parry  immediately  went  in  a  boat  to 
examine  the  grounded  ice  off  a  small  point  of  land, 
such  as  always  occurs  in  this  region  at  the  outlet 
of  a  ravine.  He  found  that  this  point  afforded  the 
only  possible  shelter  in  case  the  ice  should  close, 
and  therefore  took  the  Hecla  in,  and  secured  her 
without  loss  of  time.  It  was  well  he  did  so,  for  the 
ice  was  fast  closing  upon  the  shore.  The  Griper 
was  at  this  time  four  miles  astern,  and  Lieut.  Lid- 
don  was  directed  by  signal  to  secure  her  in  the 
best  manner  he  could. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Dangerous  Position  of  the  Hecla. — Submarine  Ice. — Curious  Wall. — Dan- 
ger of  the  Griper. — A  Whale  seen. — Discovery  of  Banks's  Land. — De- 
tention by  the  Ice. — A  Musk-Ox  killed. — The  Ice  closes  on  the  Shore. 

At  the  time  of  making  the  Hecla  fast,  a  current 
was  setting  to  the  westward,  at  the  rate  of  a  mile 
and  a  half  an  hour,  with  a  strong  eddy  running  into 
the  bight  where  the  ships  lay ;  at  ten,  P.  M.  it  took 


POLAR  REGIONS.  213 

a  sudden  turn,  all  the  loose  ice  near,  running  past 
the  ship  out  of  the  bight,  and  the  floes  outside  be- 
ginning to  set  to  the  eastward,  and  towards  the 
land  withal  They,  therefore,  hauled  the  ship  still 
more  into  the  bight  formed  by  the  point,  getting  her 
into  four  fathoms  abaft  and  six  forward,  and  abreast 
a  part  of  the  beach  where  there  was  not  quite  so 
much  heavy  ice  within  to  endanger  the  ship  being 
crushed.  This  was  done  from  a  belief  that,  if  the 
floes  came  in,  the  ship  must  inevitably  be  '  nipped,' 
and  in  this  case  it  w^as  better  to  be  lying  in  six 
fathoms  than  nine ;  besides,  the  masses  of  ice  now 
inside,  not  being  so  large  as  the  rest,  might  possibly 
be  forced  up  on  the  shore  before  the  ship,  instead 
of  offering  so  great  a  resistance  as  to  expose  her 
to  all  the  force  of  the  squeeze.  On  the  w^hole  of 
this  steep  coast,  wherever  they  approached  the 
shore,  they  found  a  thick  stratum  of  blue  and  solid 
ice,  firmly  embedded  in  the  beach,  at  the  depth  of 
from  six  to  ten  feet  under  the  surface  of  the  water. 
This  ice  has  probably  been  the  lower  part  of  heavy 
masses  forced  aground  by  the  pressure  of  the  floes 
from  without,  and  still  adhering  to  the  viscous  mud 
of  which  the  beach  is  composed,  after  the  upper 
part  has,  in  course  of  time,  dissolved.  Captain 
Sabine  suggested,  that  the  underground  ice  found 
in  cold  countries,  might  thus  have  been  deposited. 
The  land  gains  upon  the  sea,  as  it  is  called,  in  pro- 
cess of  time,  as  it  has  certainly  done  here,  from  the 
situation  in  which  they  found  drift-wood  and  the 
skeletons  of  whales  ;  the  ice  which  fixes  itself  upon 
the  beach  is  annually  covered  in  part  by  alluvial 


214  POLAR    REGIONS. 

deposit,  and  thus  may  a  connected  stratum  of  it  be 
buried  for  ages,  several  feet  below  the  surface  of 
the  earth.  From  the  tops  of  the  hills  in  this  part 
of  Melville  Island  a  continuous  line  of  this  sub- 
marine ice  could  be  distinctly  traced  for  miles  along 
the  coast. 

In  running  along  the  shore  this  evening,  they 
noticed  near  the  sea  what  at  a  distance  had  every 
appearance  of  a  high  wall  artificially  built,  and 
which  was  the  resort  of  numerous  birds.  Captain 
Sabine,  being  desirous  to  examine  it,  as  well  as  to 
procure  some  specimens  of  the  birds,  set  out,  as 
soon  as  the  ship  anchored,  for  that  purpose.  The 
wall  proved  to  be  composed  of  sand-stone  in  hori- 
zontal strata  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  height, 
which  had  been  left  standing,  so  as  to  exhibit  its 
present  artificial  appearance,  by  the  decomposition 
of  the  rock  and  earth  about  it.  Large  flocks  of 
glaucous  gulls  had  chosen  this  as  a  secure  retreat 
from  the  foxes,  and  every  other  enemy  but  man ; 
and  when  the  people  first  went  into  the  ravine  iri 
which  it  stands,  they  were  so  fierce  in  defence  of 
their  young,  that  it  was  scarcely  safe  to  approach 
them  till  a  few  shots  had  been  fired. 

Besides  a  number  of  gulls.  Captain  Sabine  and 
his  party  brought  with  them  ten  hares,  which,  to- 
gether with  what  had  been  obtained  as  they  came 
along  the  land,  furnished  a  fresh  meal  for  the  whole 
crew.  Captain  Sabine  also  brought  word  from 
Lieutenant  Liddon  that  the  Griper  was  in  a  situa- 
tion exactly  similar  to  that  of  the  Hecla,  where 
*  nipping '  appeared  unavoidable,  if  the  floes  should 


POLAR   REGIONS.  215 

come  in.  The  ice,  however,  remained  quiet  about 
the  Hecla  during  the  day,  even  though  a  strong 
breeze  freshened  up  from  the  E.S.E.,  with  con- 
tinued snow ;  a  circumstance  which,  while  it  added 
to  their  present  security,  did  not  give  very  flattering 
hopes  that  there  could  be  any  room  for  the  ice  to 
drift  to  the  westward.  In  the  course  of  the  evening 
Capt.  Parry  heard  again  from  the  Griper ;  Lieu- 
tenant Liddon  informing  him  that  the  floes  had  once 
come  in  towards  her,  so  as  to  lift  her  two  feet  out 
of  the  water,  and  then  retired  without  doing  any 
damage. 

At  eleven,  P.  M.  a  narrow  lane  of  water  opened 
near  the  Griper,  extending  about  three  miles  to  the 
Southwest ;  near  the  Hecla  it  had  also  slackened 
a  little,  about  midnight,  but  it  would  have  been  diffi- 
cult to  have  found  a  *  hole '  of  water  in  which  a  boat 
could  have  floated,  more  than  three  hundred  yards 
beyond  the  ship. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  a  black  whale  came 
up,  close  to  the  Hecla,  being  the  first  seen  since 
the  22d  of  August  the  preceding  year,  and  it 
therefore  received  the  distinctive  appellation  of  the 
whale.  Since  leaving  Winter  Harbour  they  had 
here  and  there  seen  a  solitary  seal.  Lieut.  Beechey 
was  sent  to  the  top  of  a  hill  to  the  westward,  to  as- 
certain the  state  of  the  ice,  and  returned  at  two, 
P.  M.  with  a  large  fawn,  and  the  intelHgence  that 
he  had,  at  a  great  distance  to  the  south,  perhaps 
forty  or  fifty  miles  off",  distinguished  three  capes 
very  plainly.     The  sea  he  reported  to  be  covered 


216  POLAR    REGIONS. 

with  floes  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  the 
space  between  them  to  be  so  closely  filled  with 
broken  ice  that  scarcely  a  hole  of  water  could  be 
seen. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  man  from  each  mess  was  sent 
on  shore  to  pick  sorrel,  which  was  here  remarka- 
bly fine  and  large,  as  well  as  more  acid  than  any 
they  had  lately    found.       The  shelter    from    the 
northerly  winds,  afforded  by  the  high  land  on  this 
part  of  the  coast,  together  with  its  southern  aspect, 
renders  the  vegetation  here,  immediately  next  the 
sea,  much  more  luxuriant  than  in  most  parts  of  Mel- 
ville Island  which  they  had  visited ;  and  a  consider- 
able addition  was  made  to  their  collection  of  plants. 
In  the  afternoon  the  ice  closed  the  place  which  had 
hitherto  been  open  about  the  Hecla.    Several  heavy 
pieces  of  floes  floated  past,  not  less  than  fifteen  feet 
thick,  but  they  were  fortunately  stopped  by  a  point 
of  land.     At  eleven,  P.  M.,  however,  a  mass  of  this 
kind,  about  an  acre  in  extent,  drove  in,  and  gave  the 
ship  a  considerable 'nip'  between  itself  and  the 
grounded  ice,  and  then  passed  off"  to  the  westward. 
They  were  not  again  disturbed  till  five,  A.  M.,  on 
the  8th,  when  another  piece  of  a  floe  came  in,  and 
gave  the  ship  another  rub,  and  then  went  past, 
after  which   the  ice  continued   loose   for  several 
hours.     Captain  Parry  now  clomb  up  the  hill,  and 
saw  the  land  that  Lieut.  Beechey  had  discovered. 
He  called  it  Banks  Land,  and  it  is  the  farthest  west 
of  all  the  discoveries  in  the  Polar  Sea. 

From  the  top  of  the  hill  not  a  hole  could  be  seen 
in  the  ice  in  any  direction ;  and  they  were  compelled 


POLAR    REGIONS.  217 

to  wait  for  a  change  with  what  patience  they  might. 
Several  hares  were  killed,  and  on  the  morning  of 
the  9th,  a  musk-ox  came  down  to  graze  on  the 
beach,  near  the  ships.  A  party  was  despatched 
in  pursuit,  and  having  hemmed  him  in  under  the 
hill,  which  was  too  steep  for  him  to  ascend,  suc- 
ceeded in  killing  him.  When  first  brought  on 
board,  the  inside  of  this  animal,  w^hich  was  a  male, 
smelled  very  strongly  of  musk,  of  which  the  whole  of 
the  meat  also  tasted,  more  or  less,  and  especially 
the  heart.  It  furnished  four  hundred  and  twenty- 
one  pounds  of  beef,  which  was  served  to  the  crews 
'as  usual,  in  lieu  of  their  salt  provisions,  and  was 
very  much  relished,  notwithstanding  the  peculiarity 
of  its  flavor.*'  The  meat  was  remarkably  fat,  and, 
as  it  hung  up  in  quarters,  looked  as  fine  as  any 
beef  in  an  Enghsh  market.  A  small  seal,  killed  by 
the  Griper's  people,  was  also  eaten  by  them ;  and  it 
w^as  generally  allowed  to  be  very  tender  and  pala- 
table, though  not  very  sightly  in  its  appearance, 
being  of  a  disagreeable  red  color. 

In  the  morning  watch,  a  breeze  sprung  up  from 
the  westward,  which  they  were  always  ready  to 
welcome,  having  found  that  it  invariably  served  to 
open  the  ice,  while  an  easterly  wind  as  constantly 
made  it  closer.  This  was,  however,  of  short  dura- 
tion, being  succeeded  soon  after  noon  by  a  light 
air  from  the  southeast,  which  brought  all  the  loose 

*  Some  pieces  of  this  meat,  which  were  carried  to  England,  were 
found  to  have  acquired  a  much  more  disagreeable  flavor  than  when 
first  killed,  though  they  had  not  undergone  putrefaction  in  the  slight- 
est degree. 

19 


218  POLAR    REGIONS.  *: 

ice  in  upon  them.  At  half-past  three,  P.M.,  a 
large  piece  of  a  very  heavy  floe  came  close,  and 
would  have  given  them  a 'nip'  against  the  shore, 
had  they  not  avoided  it  by  heaving  the  ship  a  fev^ 
yards  ahead  in  good  time.  It  was  then  brought  up 
by  the  point  of  land,  and  remained  quiet,  half  a 
cable's  length  astern,  there  not  being  room  for  it  to 
drift  farther  to  the  westward  between  the  point  and 
an  enormous  floe  which  blocked  up  the  passage  to 
the  southward  and  westward. 

At  ten,  P.M.,  the  whole  body  of  ice,  which  was 
then  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off*,  was  found  to  be  drifting 
in  upon  the  land,  and  the  ship  was  warped  back  a 
little  way  to  the  westward,  towards  that  part  of  the 
shore,  which  was  most  favorable  for  allowing  her 
to  be  forced  up  on  the  beach.  At  eleven  o'clock, 
the  piece  of  a  floe,  which  came  near  in  the  after- 
noon, and  which  had  since  drifted  back  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  to  the  eastward,  received  the  pressure 
of  the  whole  body  of  ice,  as  it  came  in.  It  split 
across  in  various  directions,  with  a  considerable 
crash,  and  presently  after  they  saw  a  part,  several 
hundred  tons  in  weight,  raised  slowly  and  majesti- 
cally, as  if  by  the  application  of  a  screw,  and  de- 
posited on  another  part  of  the  floe  from  which  it 
had  broken,  presenting  the  surface  that  had  split, 
which  was  of  a  fme  blue  color,  and  very  solid 
and  transparent.  The  violence  with  which  the  ice 
was  coming  in  being  thus  broken,  it  remained  quiet 
during  the  night,  which  was  calm,  with  a  heavy 
fall  of  snow. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  219 


CHAPTER  XVL 

Average  Thickness  of  the  Ice. — Observations  on  the  State  of  the  Ice. — 
Farther  Detention. — Appearances  of  this  Part  of  Melville  Island. — 
Great  Peril  of  the  Griper. — The  Griper  ordered  to  retrograde. 

The  mass  of  ice  which  had  been  lifted  up  the 
preceding  day  being  drifted  close  to  them  on  the 
morning  of  the  10th,  Lieutenant  Beechey  was  sent 
to  measure  its  thickness,  which  proved  to  be  forty- 
two  feet ;  and,  as  it  was  a  piece  of  a  regular  floe, 
this  measurement  may  serve  to  give  some  idea  of 
the  general  thickness  of  the  ice  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. 

It  now  became  evident,  from  the  combined  ex- 
perience of  this  and  the  preceding  year,  that  there 
was  something  peculiar  about  the  southwest  ex- 
tremity of  Melville  Island,  which  made  the  icy  sea 
there  extremely  unfavorable  to  navigation,  and 
which  seemed  likely  to  bid  defiance  to  all  their 
efforts  to  proceed  much  farther  to  the  westward  in 
this  parallel  of  latitude.  They  had  arrived  off  it  on 
the  17th  of  September,  1819,  after  long  and  heavy 
gales  from  the  northwestward,  by  which  alone  the 
ice  is  ever  opened  on  this  coast,  and  found  it,  in 
unusually  heavy  and  extensive  fields,  completely 
closing  in  with  the  land,  a  mile  or  two  to  the  east- 
ward of  where  they  were  now  lying.  They  again 
arrived  here  in  the  early  part  of  August,  and  though 
the   rest  of  the  navigation   had   been  remarkably 


220  POLAR   REGIONS. 

clear  for  fifty  miles  between  this  and  Winter  Har- 
bour, seeming  to  afford  a  presumptive  proof  that  the 
season  was  rather  a  favorable  one  than  otherwise, 
the  same    obstruction  presented  itself  as  before ; 
nor  did  there  appear,  from  late  experience,  a  rea- 
sonable ground  of  hope,  that  any  fortuitous  circum- 
stance, such  as  an  alteration  in  winds  or  currents, 
was  likely  to  remove  the  formidable  impediments 
which  they  had  now  to  encounter.     The  increased 
dimensions  of  the  ice  hereabouts  would  not  alone 
have   created  an   insurmountable   difficulty  in  the 
navigation,  but  that  it  w^as  very  naturally  accom- 
panied by  a  degree  of  closeness  which  seldom  or 
never  admitted  an  open  space   of  clear  water  of 
sufficient  size  for  a  ship,  or  even  a  boat,  to  sail  in. 
They  had  been  lying  near  their  present  station  with 
an  easterly  wind  blowing  fresh  for  thirtysix  hours 
together;  and  although  this  was   considerably   off 
the  land,  beyond  the  western  point  of  the  island 
now  in  sight,  the  ice  had  not,  during  the  whole  of 
that  time,  moved  a  single  yard  from  the   shore  ;  af- 
fording a  proof  that  there  w^as  no   space  in  which 
the  ice  was  at  liberty  to  move  to  the  westward,  and 
offering  a  single  and  a  striking  exception  to  their 
former  experience. 

Under  these  circumstances,  Capt.  Parry  began 
to  consider  whether  it  would  not  be  advisable, 
whenever  the  ice  would  allow  them  to  move,  to 
sacrifice  a  few^  miles  of  the  westing  they  had  alrea- 
dy made,  and  to  run  along  the  margin  of  the  floes, 
in  order  to  endeavour  to  find  an  opening  leading  to 
the  southward,  by  taking  advantage  of  which  they 


POLAR  REGIONS.  221 

might  be  enabled  to  prosecute  the  voyage  to  the 
westward  in  a  lower  latitude.  He  was  the  more 
inchned  to  make  this  attempt,  from  its  having  Igng 
become  evident  that  the  navigation  of  this  part  of 
the  Polar  Sea  is  only  to  be  performed  by  watching 
the  occasional  openings  between  the  ice  and  the 
shore ;  and  that,  therefore,  a  continuity  of  land  is 
essential,  if  not  absolutely  necessary,  for  this  pur- 
pose. Such  a  continuity  of  land,  which  was  here 
about  to  fail,  must  necessarily  be  furnished  by  the 
northern  coast  of  America,  in  whatsoever  latitude  it 
may  be  found ;  and,  as  a  large  portion  of  this  short 
season  had  already  been  occupied  in  fruitless  at- 
tempts to  penetrate  farther  to  the  westward  in 
their  present  parallel,  under  circumstances  of  more 
than  ordinary  risk  to  the  ships,  he  determined, 
whenever  the  ice  should  open  sufficiently,  to  put 
into  execution  the  plan  he  had  proposed. 

The  westerly  wind  cleared  them  by  slow  degrees 
of  the  loose  masses  of  ice  about  the  ship,  and  in 
the  afternoon  the  main  body  went  off  about  three 
hundred  yards,  drifting  also  a  little  to  the  eastward. 
It  may  always  be  expected,  in  icy  seas,  that  a 
breeze  of  wind,  however  hght,  will  set  the  ice  in 
motion,  if  there  be  any  room  for  it  to  move  ;  in 
such  cases,  the  smaller  pieces  of  course  begin  to 
drift  the  first,  and  the  heavier  ones  soon  follow, 
though  at  a  slower  rate  :  almost  every  separate  piece 
is  seen  to  move  with  a  different  velocity,  propor- 
tioned to  its  depth  under  water. 

In  the  evening  the  ice  began  to  drift  to  the  east- 
ward,  and  Capt.    Parry   communicated  to   Lieut. 
19* 


222  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Liddon  his  .  intejition  to  push  on  to  the  westward 
the  instant  the  sea  should  become  clear  enough 
to  allow  the  ships  to  make  any  progress ;  and,  fail- 
ing in  this,  to  attempt  a  passage  considerably  to  the 
southward  of  their  present  parallel. 

At  seven,  P.  M.,  the  Hecla's  rudder  was  shipped, 
and  the  top-gallant  yards  were  crossed,  in  readiness 
for  moving.     But  neither  this  evening  nor  the  next 
day  did  the  ice  suffer  them  to  proceed.     The  lati- 
tude at  this  station  was  74*^  25'  35 " ;  the  longitude,  by 
•chronometers,  113**  43'  01",  and  the  variation  of  the 
needle  106°  06'  38",  easterly  ;  each  of  these  being  the 
mean  of  several  observations,   taken  on  different 
days.     There  was  nothing  in    the    appearance    or 
productions  of  this  part  of  the  island  different  from 
those  which  had  been  found  elsewhere,  except  that 
the  ravines   were  more  strikingly  grand  and  pic- 
turesque, in  consequence  of  the  greater  height  of 
the  land  upon  this  part  of  the  coast.     This,  as  has 
been  before  remarked,,  was  found,  in  one  instance, 
to  exceed  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea ;  and  the  hills,  immediately  at  the  back  of  this, 
at  the  distance  of  nine  or  ten  miles,  appeared  to  be 
at  least  one  or  two  hundred  feet  higher ;  so  that  the 
extreme  height  of  Melville  Island,  as  far  as  they  had 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  it,  may,  perhaps,  be  fairly 
estimated  at  about  one  thousand  feet.     The  rocks 
consisted  entirely  of  sand-stone  in  horizontal  strata, 
and  the  soil  of  sand,  intermixed  occasionally  with 
decayed    plants,  forming  here  and  there  a  sort  of 
vegetable  mould,  on  which  the   other  plants  and  a 
few  tufts  of    very  luxuriant  moss   were  growing. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  223 

They  remarked,  that  almost  all  the  plants  had  a 
part  of  their  flowers  cropped  by  the  hares  and 
other  animals,  which  are  fond  of  feeding  in  the 
sheltered  and  warm  situations  afforded  by  the  banks 
next  the  sea. 

On  the  12th,  the  ice,  setting  westward,  closed 
upon  the  land  where  the  Griper  was  lying;  by 
which  she  was  forced  against  the  submarine  ice, 
and  her  stern  was  lifted  two  feet  out  of  the  water. 
The  pressure  made  her  timbers  crack  loudly ;  at 
first  she  heeled  toward  the  land,  but  at  last  fell 
over  towards  the  deep  w^ater.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances, Lieut.  Liddon  landed  all  the  journals 
and  other  documents  of  importance,  and  made  every 
arrangement  in  his  power  to  save  the  provisions 
and  stores  in  case  of  shipwreck,  which  he  had  great 
reason  to  anticipate.  In  the  mean  while  the  ice  re- 
mained so  close  about  the  Hecla,  that  any  motion 
toward  the  shore  must  have  placed  her  in  a  situ- 
ation similar  to  that  of  the  Griper.  At  last  the  ice 
slackened  round  the  Griper,  and  she  righted,  without 
having  received  any  worse  injury  than  splitting  her 
rudder ;  but  she  still  remained  in  the  same  place, 
subject  to  the  same  danger  from  which  she  had  just 
been  reHeved.  The  ice  was  still  close  and  un- 
broken, and  pressed  so  close  upon  the  shore  that 
nothing  could  have  passed  between.  It  moved  a 
few  yards  from  the  Hecla,  but  in  the  evening  of  the 
13th  closed  on  her  again,  and  pressed  her  firmly 
against  the  shore,  but  not  so  as  to  strain  her  materi- 
ally. Soon  after  midnight  the  pressure  increased 
so  as  to  make  the  Hecla  heel  eighteen  inches  to- 


224  POLAR   REGIONS. 

ward  the  shore,  but  without  appearing  to  strain  her 
in  the  least.  In  case  of  anything  worse,  the  boats 
were  got  out  upon  the  beach,  but  in  a  few  hours 
the  pressure  relaxed  entirely,  and  the  ice  remained 
quiet. 

Every  moment's  delay  confirmed  Capt.  Parry  in 
the  opinion  that  it  was  expedient  to  attempt  to 
penetrate  to  the  southward,  as  soon  as  the  ice  would 
allow  the  ships  to  move  at  all,  rather  than  persevere 
in  pushing  directly  westward.  He  therefore  ordered 
Lieut.  Liddon  to  run  back  a  certain  distance  east- 
ward as  soon  as  he  could,  without  waiting  for  the 
Hecla,  should  that  ship  still  be  detained,  and  to 
look  out  for  any  opening  to  the  southward,  which 
might  seem  favorable  to  the  object  in  view,  and  then 
wait  for  the  Hecla. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Hecla  moves  again. — Position  of  the  Ships. — They  move  to  the 
Eastward. — Abandonment  of  the  Westward  Course. — Musk  Oxen. — 
Retrograde  Passage. 

On  the  fifteenth,  Lieut.  Liddon  was  enabled  to 
sail,  in  the  execution  of  his  orders.  Capt.  Parry, 
however,  observing  that  the  Griper  made  little  or 
no  way,  hoisted  the  signal  of  recall,  with  the  in- 
tention of  making  one  more  attempt  to  penetrate 
westward.  The  ice  had  so  far  separated  as  to 
allow  him  to  sail  a  mile  and  a  half  along  shore, 
when  he  was  again  stopped.  He  was  fortunate  in 
finding  a  tolerably  secure  situation  for  the  Hecla 


POLAR    REGIONS.  225 

within  the  grounded  ice ;  but  the  Griper  was  left 
by  the  wind  in  a  place  where,  should  the  ice  press 
upon  her,  there  could  be  no  hope  of  safety.  For 
fear  of  the  worst,  Capt.  Parry  made  preparations  to 
send  parties  to  assist  the  Griper's  company,  if  wreck 
should  become  unavoidable  ;  but  they  were  shortly 
after  reUeved  from  all  anxiety  on  this  account,  by 
the  recession  of  the  ice  from  the  shore,  whereby 
the  Griper  was  enabled  to  gain  a  station  near  the 
Hecla. 

The  ice  to  the  west  and  southwest,  as  seen  from 
their  present  station,  gave  them  no  reason  to  expect 
a  speedy  opening  in  the  desired  direction.  It  ap- 
peared as  solid  and  compact  as  so  much  land ;  to 
which  the  inequaUties  of  the  surface  gave  it  no  small 
resemblance.  Capt.  Parry,  therefore,  determined 
to  defer  the  attempt  to  try  a  more  southern  latitude 
no  longer. 

The  point  at  which  the  ships  were  now  lying,  and 
which  is  the  westernmost  to  which  Arctic  naviga- 
tion has  ever  been  carried,  is  in  latitude  74°  26'  25", 
and  longitude  113°  64'  43".  Cape  Dundas  seen  yet 
farther  west  is  in  longitude  113°  57'  35",  by  which 
the  length  of  Melville  Island  appears  to  be  about 
an  hundred  and  thirtyfive  miles,  and  its  breadth, 
at  the  meridian  of  Winter  Harbour,  from  forty  to 
fifty  miles. 

At  nine,  P.  M.  they  were  abreast  of  the  place 
where  they  had  landed  on  the  5th,  and  here  per- 
ceived that  the  ice  closed  with  the  land  a  little  to 
the  eastward.  There  was  no  safety  for  the  ships, 
unless  they  could  get  past  one  of  the  small  points 


1 


226  POLAR  REGIONS. 

at  the  embouchure  of  a  ravine,  against  which  a  floe 
was  setting  the  smaller  pieces  of  ice,  and  had 
blocked  up  the  passage  before  they  arrived.  After 
heaving  two  hours  at  the  halsers,  they  succeeded 
in  getting  through,  and  moored  the  ships  to  some 
very  heavy  grounded  ice  near  the  beach.  Hares 
were  observed  here,  feeding  on  the  sides  of  the 
cliffs,  and  a  few  ptarmigans  were  seen.  The  place 
where  the  Hecla  was  now  secured,  being  the  only 
one  of  the  kind  which  could  be  found,  \\  as  a  little 
harbour,  formed,  as  usual,  by  the  grounded  ice, 
some  of  which  was  fixed  to  the  bottorii  in  ten  or 
twelve  fathoms.  One  side  of  the  entrance  to  this 
harbour  consisted  of  masses  of  floes,  very  regular 
in  their  shape,  placed  quite  horizontally,  and  broken 
off  so  exactly  perpendicular,  as  to  resemble  a  hand- 
some, well-built  wharf.  On  the  opposite  side,  how- 
ever, the  masses  to  which  they  looked  for  security 
were  themselves  rather  terrific  objects,  as  they 
leaned  over  so  much  towards  the  ship,  as  to  give 
the  appearance  of  their  being  in  the  act  of  falling 
upon  her  deck ;  and  as  a  very  trifling  concussion 
often  produces  the  fall  of  much  heavier  masses  of 
ice,  when  in  appearance  very  firmly  fixed  to  the 
ground,  Capt.  Parry  gave  orders  that  no  guns  should 
be  fired  near  the  ship  during  her  continuance  in 
this  situation.  The  Griper  was  of  necessity  made 
fast  near  the  beach,  in  rather  an  exposed  situation, 
and  her  rudder  unshipped,  in  readiness  for  the  ice 
coming  in ;  it  remained  quiet,  however,  though 
quite  close,  during  the  day,  the  weather  being  calm 
and  fine. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  227 

In  the  evening  of  the  18th,  some  heavy  pieces  of 
grounded  ice  to  which  the  bow  halser  of  the  Hecla 
was  fastened,  fell  off  into  the  water,  snapping  the 
rope  without  injuring  the  ship.  Nevertheless,  as 
every  alteration  of  this  kind  must  materially  change 
the  centre  of  gravity  of  the  whole  mass,  it  was 
thought  prudent  to  move  the  Hecla  out  of  her  har- 
bour to  the  place  where  the  Griper  was  lying,  lest 
some  of  the  bergs  should  fall  upon  her  deck  and 
crush  or  sink  her. 

On  the  20th  and  21st,  the  young  ice  formed  to 
such  a  degree  as  to  cement  together  all  the  loose 
ice  about  the  ships ;  nor  did  it  thaw  on  either  of 
those  days,  though  the  sun  shone  clearly  upon  it 
for  several  hours.  The  main  body  remained  close 
and  firm  in  every  direction.  The  same  state  of 
things  obtained  on  the  22d,  and  in  the  morning  of 
the  23d,  the  young  ice  was  an  inch  and  a  half  thick. 
A  breeze  springing  up  from  the  westward  put  it  in 
motion,  so  that  by  noon  the  ships  were  able  to  warp 
out  and  proceed  eastward.  In  a  short  time,  how 
ever,  the  ice  closed  so  firmly  around  them  that  they 
became  wholly  unmanageable,  and  received  many 
blows,  more  severe  than  any  they  had  experienced 
before.  After  having  drifted  with  the  ice  six  miles, 
they  were  made  fast  to  some  grounded  ice. 

The  situation  in  which  the  ships  were  now  placed, 
and  the  shortness  of  the  remaining  part  of  the  navi- 
gable season,  caused  great  anxiety.  Judging  from 
the  experience  of  1819,  it  was  reasonable  to  con- 
clude that  about  the  7th  of  September,  was  the 
limit  beyond  which  the  ships  could  not  keep  the 


228  POLAR    REGIONS. 

sea  with  any  degree  of  safety  or  prospect  of  suc- 
cess;  but  being  strongly  impressed  with  the  idea 
that  it  was  incumbent  on  him  to  make  every  possi- 
ble effort,  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  extend  this 
limit  to  the  14th  of  September,  before  which  date 
the  winter  would  have  set  in.  The  prospect  was 
not  very  encouraging,  even  with  this  extension; 
they  had  only  advanced  sixty  miles  this  season,  and 
the  distance  to  Icy  Cape  was  yet  betw^een  eight 
and  nine  hundred  miles,  supposing  them  to  find  a 
clear  passage.  The  provisions,  too,  were  so  far  re- 
duced in  quantity,  that  by  no  means  could  they  be 
made  to  hold  out  longer  than  till  April,  1822,  and 
the  deficiency  of  fuel  was  even  more  apparent. 
These  and  other  minor  considerations  induced  Capt. 
Parry  to  ask  the  advice  and  opinions  of  his  officers 
relative  to  the  expediency  of  returning  to  England. 
They  all  agreed  that  any  attempt  to  penetrate  far- 
ther westward  in  their  present  parallel  w^ould  be 
fruitless,  and  attended  with  loss  of  time  that  might 
be  more  profitably  employed  elsewhere.  They 
advised  that  the  vessel  should  run  back  along  the 
edge  of  the  ice,  in  order  to  look  for  an  opening  that 
might  lead  toward  the  American  continent,  and  af- 
ter a  reasonable  time  spent  in  the  search,  to  return 
to  England.  This  advice  agreeing  with  his  own 
opinions,  Capt.  Parry  resolved  to  comply  with  it. 

A  party  was  despatched  in  chase  of  a  herd  of 
musk  cattle,  that  were  seen  grazing  upon  the  shore, 
and  two  were  killed.  The  gait  of  these  animals  is 
an  awkward  canter,  which  often  makes  them  appear 
as  if  about  to  fall ;  yet  the  slowest  of  them  can  far 


POLAR    REGIONS.  229 

outstrip  a  man.  These  were  the  last  animals  of 
the  kind  killed.  The  total  quantity  of  game  taken 
while  about  the  shores  of  Melville  Island  was 
as  follows  :  three  musk-oxen,  twentyfour  reindeer, 
sixtyeight  hares,  fiftythree  geese,  fiftynine  ducks, 
and  an  hundred  and  forty  four  ptarmigans  ;  affording 
three  thousand  seven  hundred  and  sixtysix  pounds 
of  meat,  in  all. 

The  place  where  these  last  animals  w^ere  killed 
was  the  most  luxuriant  pasture -ground  they  had 
yet  met  with  on  Melville  Island.  It  consisted  of 
about  a  dozen  acres  of  short  thick  grass,  intermixed 
with  moss,  which  gave  it  almost  the  same  lively 
appearance  as  that  of  an  English  meadow.  It  was 
covered  with  the  dung  and  foot-tracks  of  musk- 
oxen,  of  which  twelve  or  fourteen  skulls  w^ere  picked 
up  near  it :  and  it  was  here  that  the  herd  before 
mentioned  w^as  feeding.  When  walking  over  this 
spot,  on  which  there  were  many  small  ponds  of 
water,  their  surprise  in  some  degree  ceased  at  the 
immense  distance  which  these  animals  must  travel 
in  the  course  of  their  annual  visits  to  these  dreary 
and  desolate  regions ;  as  such  a  pasture,  affording 
undisturbed  and  luxuriant  feeding  during  the  sum- 
mer months,  may,  in  spite  of  the  general  dreary  ap- 
pearance of  the  island,  hold  out  sufficient  induce- 
ment for  their  annual  emigration. 

On  the  twentyfourth  the  ships  moved  again,  and 
found  less  ice  as  they  advanced,  so  that  when,  on 
the  morning  of  the  27th,  they  cleared  the  east  end 
of  Melville  Island,  the  navigable  channel  was  not 
less  than  ten  miles  wide.  A  constant  look-out  was 
20 


230  POLAR    REGIONS. 

kept  from  the  crow's  nest  for  an  opening  to  the 
south,  but  none  occurred.  The  weather  was  hazy, 
so  much  so  that  they  were  agam  obhged  to  steer 
the  ships  the  one  by  the  other.  As  they  proceeded, 
several  islands  hitherto  unknown,  were  discovered, 
but  no  opening  was  seen  in  the  ice,  and  when  they 
had,  on  the  30th,  reached  longitude  90%  they  be- 
came satisfied  that  there  was  no  possibility  of  ef- 
fecting their  object,  and  Capt.  Parry,  therefore,  con- 
ceived it  to  be  his  duty  to  return  forthwith  to  Eng- 
land, in  order  that  no  time  might  be  lost  in  follow- 
ing up  his  discoveries,  if  his  government  should 
deem  fit  to  do  so. 


CHAPTER  XVIL 

The  Ships  explore  the  West  Shore  of  Baffin's  Bay. — Meet  Vessels  from  Eng- 
land.— Esquimaux  at  thfe  River  Clyde. — Their  Behaviour. 

It  would  be  tedious  to  follow  the  ships  from  day 
to  day  in  their  passage  out  of  Barrow's  Strait,  or  to 
give  a  detail  of  every  field  of  ice  and  every  fog 
they  met.  Nor  can  much  be  said  of  the  different 
islands  and  points  of  land  they  passed.  Nothing  is 
known  of  them  but  their  names  and  positions,  and 
these  may  as  well  be  learned  from  the  map  as  from 
our  narrative.  After  clearing  Lancaster's  Sound, 
Capt.  Parry  was  of  opinion  that  considerable  ser- 
vice might  be  rendered  by  a  survey  of  the  western 
coast  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and  therefore  determined  to 
keep  as  close  along  that  shore  as  circumstances 


POLAR  REGIONS.  231 

would  permit.  He  was  confirmed  in  this  resolution 
by  the  hope  of  finding  some  outlet  into  the  Polar 
Sea  in  a  lower  latitude  than  Lancaster's  Sound, 
which  would  be  of  great  importance  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  a  northwest  passage. 

Keeping  along  this  coast,  on  the  morning  of  the 
third  they  passed  some  enormous  icebergs,  one  of 
which  was  two  hundred  feet  high  above  the  sea. 
Being  off  a  low  point  of  land,  they  observed  a 
range  of  hills  inland,  a  thousand  feet  high ;  and 
the  wind  being  light  and  variable,  they  landed 
on  a  bold  sandy  beach,  two  or  three  miles  to  the 
northward  of  a  low  point,  at  the  entrance  of  an  in- 
let, towards  which  they  walked,  and  ascended  a 
hill  at  the  back  of  the  point,  in  order  to  obtain  a 
view  of  this  opening.  They  now  found  that  the 
perpendicular  cliff  formed  the  northeastern  point  of 
a  remarkably  steep  and  precipitous  island,  on  each 
side  of  v/hich  there  is  a  wide  and  bold  entrance. 
Above  the  island,  the  inlet  branches  off  in  at  least 
two  different  directions,  which  their  situation  would 
not  allow  them  to  trace  to  any  great  distance,  but 
they  saw  no  termination  to  either  of  them. 

The  mineral  productions  were  found  to  consist 
principally  of  granite  and  gneiss  :  but  there  were  also 
abundance  of  hmestone  and  quartz,  the  latter  beau- 
tifully white.  The  vegetation  was  tolerably  lux- 
uriant in  some  places  upon  the  low  land  which 
borders  the  sea,  consisting  principally  of  the  dwarf- 
willow,  sorrel,  saxifrage,  and  poppy,  with  a  few 
roots  of  scurvy-grass.  There  was  still  a  great  deal 
of  snow  remaining  even  on  the  lower  parts  of  the 


232  POLAR    REGIONS. 

land,  on  which  were  numerous  ponds  of  water ;  on 
one  of  these  a  pair  of  young  red-throated  divers, 
"which  could  not  rise,  were  killed;  and  two  flocks 
of  geese,  one  of  them  consisting  of  not  less  than 
sixty  or  seventy,  were  seen  by  Mr  Hooper,  who 
described  them  as  being  very  tame,  running  along 
the  beach  before  the  people,  without  rising,  for  a 
considerable  distance.  Some  glaucous  gulls  and 
plovers  w^ere  killed,  and  they  met  with  several 
tracks  of  bears,  deer,  wolves,  foxes,  and  mice.  The 
coxswain  of  the  boat  found  upon  the  beach  part  of 
the  bone  of  a  whale,  which  had  been  cut  at  one 
end  by  a  sharp  instrument,  like  an  axe,  with  a 
quantity  of  chips  lying  about  it,  affording  undoubted 
proof  of  this  part  of  the  coast  having  been  visited 
at  no  distant  period  by  Esquimaux.  It  is  no  more 
than  probable,  indeed,  that  they  may  inhabit  the 
shores  of  this  inlet,  which  time  would  not  now  per- 
mit the  voyagers  to  examine.  More  than  sixty  ice- 
bergs, of  very  large  dimensions,  were  in  sight  from 
the  top  of  the  hill,  together  with  a  number  of  ex- 
tensive floes  to  the  northeast  and  southeast,  at 
the  distance  of  four  or  five  leagues  from  the  land. 

The  latitude  of  the  place  of  observation  on  shore 
was  7P  15'  34^  its  longitude  71"  17'  23".6,  and  the 
variation  of  the  magnetic  needle  91*'  28'  32"  westerly. 

While  the  officers  were  on  shore,  a  piece  of 
whale  blubber,  cut  into  a  square  form,  was  picked 
up  on  the  water,  which  was  soon  after  satisfactorily 
accounted  for.  The  wind  coming  from  the  north- 
west in  the  night,  the  ships  kept  on  their  course ; 
and  about  noon  the  next  day  the  astonishment  of 


POLAR   REGIONS.  233 

their  companies  was  great  at  seeing  three  whale 
ships  standing  toward  them.  They  afterward  sailed 
away  to  the  northward,  and  our  friends  lost  sight 
of  them.  It  was  now  evident  that  this  coast, 
which,  before  the  voyage  of  Capt.  Ross  had  been 
beheved  inaccessible,  had  become  a  fishing  station, 
like  the  opposite  shore  of  Greenland. 

On  the  5th,  they  met  another  fishing  ship,  from 
which  they  first  learned,  among  other  political 
events,  the  death  of  George  the  Third.  The  mas- 
ter of  this  vessel  also  informed  them  that  he  had 
met  some  Esquimaux,  a  day  or  two  before,  a  little 
to  the  southward.  Thinking  it  a  matter  of  some 
interest  to  communicate  with  these  people,  Capt. 
Parry  resolved  to  pay  them  a  visit,  and  accordingly 
sailed  toward  the  spot  where  they  had  been  seen. 

On  the  6th,  they  spoke  with  another  whale  ship ; 
and  toward  night,  being  near  the  island  at  the   en- 
trance of  the  inlet  called  the  river  Clyde,  they  ob- 
served four  canoes,  paddling  toward  the  ship.     The 
Esquimaux  approached,  bawHng  and  shouting,  and 
came  alongside  without   the  least   appearance   of 
fear   or  suspicion.     Their  canoes  were  taken  on 
board  by  their  own  desire,   plainly   intimated  by 
signs,  and  w^ith  their  assistance,  and  they  at  once 
came  up  the  side  without  hesitation.     This  party 
consisted  of  an  old  man,  apparently  much  above 
sixty,  and  three  younger,   from  nineteen  to  thirty 
years  of  age.     As  soon  as  they  came  on  deck,  their 
vociferation  seemed  to  increase  with  their  aston- 
ishment, and,  it  may  be  added,  their  pleasure ;  for 
the  reception  they  met  seemed  to  create  no  less 
20* 


234  POLAR    REGIONS. 

joy  than  surprise.  Whenever  they  received  a  pre- 
sent, or  were  shown  anything  which  excited  fresh 
admiration,  they  expressed  their  delight  in  loud  and 
repeated  ejaculations,  which  they  sometimes  con- 
tinued till  they  were  quite  hoarse  and  out  of  breath 
with  the  exertion.  This  noisy  mode  of  expressing 
their  satisfaction  was  accompanied  by  a  jumping, 
which  continued  for  a  minute  or  more,,  according  to 
the  degree  of  the  passion  which  excited,  and  the 
bodily  powers  of  the  person  who  exercised  it — the 
old  man  being  rather  too  infirm,  but  still  doing  his 
utmost  to  go  through  the  performance. 

After  some  time  passed  on  deck,  during  which  a 
few"  skins  and  ivory  knives  w^ere  bought  from  them, 
they  were  taken  down  into  the  cabin.  The  young- 
er ones  received  the  proposal  to  descend  somewhat 
reluctantly,  till  they  saw  that  their  old  companion 
was  willing  to  show  them  the  example,  and  they 
then  followed  without  fear.  Our  navigators  had 
soon  occasion  to  remark  that  they  were  much  bet- 
ter behaved  people  than  the  Esquimaux  who  had 
visited  their  ships  in  1818,  on  the  northeastern 
coast  of  Baffin's  Bay.  Although  they  were  much 
at  a  loss  for  an  interpreter,  they  had  no  great  diffi- 
culty in  making  the  old  man  understand,  by  show- 
ing him  an  engraved  portrait  of  an  Esquimaux,  that 
Lieutenant  Beechey  was  desirous  of  making  a  sim- 
ilar drawing  of  him.  He  was  accordingly  placed 
on  a  stool  near  the  fire,  and  sat  for  more  than  an 
hour  with  very  tolerable  composure  and  steadiness, 
considering  that  a  barter  for  their  clothes,  spears, 
and  whalebone,  was  going  on  at  the  same  time 


POLAR    REGIONS.  235 

near  him.     He  was,  indeed,  kept  quiet  by  the  pre- 
sents which  were  given  him  from  time  to  time  ;  and 
when  this  failed,  and  he  became  impatient  to  move, 
Capt.  Parry  endeavoured  to  remind  him  that   he 
washed  him  to  keep  his  position,  by  placing   his 
hands  before  him,  holding  up  his  head,  and  assum- 
ing a  grave  and  demure  look.     They  now  found 
that  the  old  gentleman  was  a  mimic,   as  w^ell  as  a 
very  good-natured  and  obliging  man  ;  for,  whenev- 
er the  Captain  did  this,  he  always  imitated  him  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  create   considerable  diversion 
among  his  own  people,  and  then  very  quietly  kept  his 
seat.     While    he    was    sitting  for  his  picture,  the 
other  three  stood  behind  him,  bartering  their  com- 
modities with  great  honesty,  but  in  a  manner  which 
showed  them  to  be  no  strangers  to  traffic.     If,  for 
instance,  a  knife  was  offered  for  any  article,  they 
would  hesitate  for  a  short  t?ime,  till  they  saw  that 
the  whites  were  determined  to  give  no  higher  price, 
and  then  at  once  consented  to  the  exchange.     In 
this  case,  as  well  as  when  anything  was  presented 
to  them,  they  immediately  licked  it  twice  with  their 
tongues,  after  which  they  seemed  to  consider  the 
bargain  satisfactorily  concluded.     The  youngest  of 
the   party   very  modestly  kept  behind  the  others, 
and,   before  he  was  observed  to  have   done   so, 
missed  several  presents,  which  his  less  diffident, 
though  not  importunate,  companions  had  received. 
As  the  night  closed  in,   they  became   desirous  to 
depart,  and  they  left  the  ships  before  dark,  highly 
delighted  with   their   visit.     As    Capt.   Parry  had 
purchased  one  of  their  canoes,  a  boat  was  sent 


236  POLAR  REGIONS. 

to  land  its  late  owner,  as  only  one  person  can  sit  in 
each.  In  going  on  shore,  the  canoes  could  beat 
the  boat  very  much  in  rowing,  whenever  the  Esqui- 
maux chose  to  exert  themselves,  but  they  kept 
close  to  her  the  whole  way.  During  the  time  that 
they  were  on  board,  a  great  aptness  for  imitating 
certain  Enghsh  words  was  observed  in  them ;  and, 
while  going  on  shore,  they  took  a  particular  liking 
to  the  expression  of  '  Hurra  !  give  way  ! '  which  they 
heard  Mr  Palmer  use  to  the  boat's  crew,  and  which 
they  frequently  imitated,  to  the  great  amusement 
of  all  parties. 

Being  desirous  of  seeing  more  of  these  people, 
of  whom  the  first  interview  had  given  him  a  favor- 
able impression,  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  lay  to 
during  the  night,  and  to  take  the  ships  higher  up 
the  inlet  on  the  following  day. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Intercourse  with  the  Esquimaux. — Manner  of  Embarking  and  Disembarking 
in  Canoes. — Esquimaux  Tents. — Mode  of  Barter. — Stature  and  Appearance 
of  the  Esquimaux. 

The  calm  weather  which  prevailed  during  the 
night  was  succeeded  by  a  breeze  from  the  westward 
on  the  morning  of  the  7th,  of  which  advantage  was 
immediately  taken  to  beat  up  the  inlet,  which  proved 
a  very  extensive  one.  The  sun  did  not  break 
through  the  clouds  till  half  after  seven,  when  the 
expected  eclipse  was  found  to  have  commenced, 


it 


POLAR    REGIONS.  237 

and  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  land,  with  Captain 
Sabine,  upon  the  nearest  island,  in  order  to  observe 
the  end  of  it,  as  well  as  to  obtain  the  other  usual 
observations,  together  with  angles  for  the  survey. 
At  ten  minutes  past  eight  the  sun  again  became  ob- 
scured, and  w^as  not  visible  till  twenty  minutes  past 
nine,  w^hen  they  had  landed,  and  were  prepared 
with  their  glasses,  but  were  disappointed,  in  finding 
that  the  eclipse  Vvas  over. 

Soon  after  they  had  landed,  the  old  Esquimaux 
and  one  of  his  younger  companions  paddled  over 
from  the  main  land,  and  joined  them  upon  the 
island.  They  brought  with  them,  as  before,  some 
pieces  of  whalebone  and  seal-skin  dresses,  which 
were  soon  disposed  of,  great  care  being  taken  by 
them  not  to  produce  more  than  one  jpticle  at  a 
time ;  returning  to  their  canoes,  which  were  pt  a 
little  distance  from  the  boat,  after  the  purchase  of 
each  of  their  commodities,  till  their  little  stock  was 
exhausted.  Considering  it  desirable  to  keep  up 
among  them  the  ideas  of  fair  and  honest  exchange, 
which  they  already  seemed  to  possess  in  no  ordi- 
nary degree,  Capt.  Parry  did  not  permit  them  to 
receive  anything  as  presents,  till  all  their  commodi- 
ties had  been  regularly  bought.  While  they  were 
waiting  to  obtain  the  sun's  meridian  altitude,  the 
Esquimaux  amused  themselves  in  the  most  good- 
natured  and  cheerful  manner  with  the  boat's  crew ; 
and  Lieutenant  Hoppner  took  this  opportunity  of 
making  a  drawing  of  the  young  man.  It  required, 
however,  some  show  of  authority,  as  well  as  some 
occasional  rewards,  to  keep  him  quietly  seated  on 


238  POLAR   REGIONS. 

the  rock  for  a  time  sufficient  for  this  purpose ;  the 
inclination  they  have  to  jump  about,  when  much 
pleased,  rendering  it  a  penalty  of  no  trifling  nature 
for  them  to  sit  still  for  half  an  hour  together.  To 
show  their  disposition  to  do  what  little  service  was 
in  their  power,  he  afterwards  employed  himself  in 
sharpening  the  seamen's  knives,  which  he  did  with 
great  expertness  on  any  flat  smooth  stone,  returning 
each  as  soon  as  finished  to  its  proper  owner,  and 
then  making  signs  for  another,  which  he  sharpened 
and  returned  in  the  same  way,  without  any  attempt, 
and  apparently  without  the  smallest  desire,  to  de- 
tain it.  The  old  man  was  extremely  inquisitive, 
and  directed  his  attention  to  those  things  which  ap- 
peared useful,  rather  than  to  those  which  Vvere 
merely  aqijaing.  An  instance  of  t^^Ajs  occurred  on  a 
i^e^.^}}[r^opfn?^^^^^^  being  opened  for  the 

boats'  crews'  dinner.     The  old  man  was  sittmg  on 
the  rock,  attentively  watching  the  operation,  which 
was  performed  with  an  axe  struck  by  a  mallet,  ^^^hen 
one   of  the  men    came   up  with   a  lookmg^glass. 
Capt.  Parry  held    it   up  to   each    of  the   Esqui- 
maux,   who    had    also    seen    one    the   preceding 
eveni;g,  and  then  gave  it  into  each  of  their  hands 
successively.     The  younger  one  was  quite  m  rap- 
tures,  and  literally  jumped  for  joy  for  nearly  a 
quarter  of  an  hour:  but  the  old  man,  having  had 
one  smile  at  his  own  queer  face,  immediately  re- 
Bumed  his  former  gravity,  and,  returmng  the  glass, 
directed  his  whole  attention  to  the  opening  of  the 
canister  ;  and  when  this  was  effected,  begged  very 
hard  for  the  mallet  which  had  performed  so  useful 


POLAR    REGIONS.  239 

an  office,  without  expressing  the  least  wish  to  par- 
take of  the  meat,  even  when  he  saw  them  eating  it 
with  good  appetites.  Being  prevailed  on,  however, 
to  taste  a  Uttle  of  it,  with  some  biscuit,  they  did  not 
seem  at  all  to  relish  it,  but  ate  a  small  quantity,  from 
an  evident  desire  not  to  offend,  and  then  deposited 
the  rest  safely  in  their  canoes.  They  could  not  be 
persuaded  to  taste  any  rum,  after  once  smelling  it, 
even  when  much  diluted  with  water. 

In  getting  out  of  their  canoes  as  well  as  into  them, 
great  care  is  required  to  preserve  the  balance  of 
these  frail  and  unsteady  coracles,  and  in  this  they 
generally  assist  each  other.  As  Capt.  Parry  was 
leaving  the  island,  and  they  were  about  to  follow,  the 
men  rested  on  their  oars  to  observe  how  they  would 
manage  this ;  and  it  was  gratifying  to  see  that  the 
young  man  launched  the  canoe  of  his  aged  com- 
panion, and  having  carefully  steadied  it  alongside 
the  rock,  till  he  had  safely  embarked,  carried  his 
own  down,  and  contrived,  though  with  some  diffi- 
culty, to  get  into  it  without  assistance.  They  seem 
to  take  especial  care,  in  launching  their  canoes,  not 
to  rub  them  against  the  rocks,  by  placing  one  end 
gently  in  the  water,  and  holding  the  other  up  high, 
till  it  can  be  deposited  without  risk  of  injury.  As 
soon  as  the  sailors  commenced  rowing,  the  Esqui- 
maux began  to  vociferate  their  newly-acquired  ex- 
pression of  ^  Hurra  !  give  way  ! '  which  they  contin- 
ued at  intervals,  accompanied  by  the  most  good-hu- 
mored merriment,  as  the  boat  crossed  over  to  the 
main  land.  There  being  now  a  htde  sea,  occa- 
sioned by  a  weather  tide,  it  was  found  that  the  boats 


240  POLAR    REGIONS. 

could  easily  beat  their  canoes  in  rowing,  notwith- 
standing their  utmost  endeavours  to  keep  up. 

The  two  Esquimaux  tents,  which  Capt.  Parry  was 
now  going  to  visit,  were  situated  just  within  a  low 
point  of  land,  forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  en- 
trance to  a  considerable  branch  of  the  inlet,  extend- 
ing some  distance  to  the  northward.  The  situation 
is  warm  and  pleasant,  having  a  southwesterly  as- 
pect, and  being  in  every  respect  w^ell  adapted  for 
the  convenient  residence  of  these  poor  people.  He 
landed  outside  the  point,  and  walked  over  to  the 
tents,  sending  the  boats,  accompanied  by  the  two 
canoes,  round  the  point.  As  soon  as  he  came  in 
sight  of  the  tents,  every  living  animal  there,  men, 
women,  children,  and  dogs,  were  in  motion,  the 
latter  to  the  top  of  the  hill  out  of  our  way,  and  the 
rest  to  meet  the  party  with  loud  and  continued 
shouting;  the  word  ' pilletay^  (give  me)  being  the 
only  articulate  sound  that  could  be  distinguished 
amidst  the  general  uproar.  Besides  the  four  men 
already  seen,  there  were  four  women,  one  of  whom, 
being  about  the  same  age  as  the  old  man,  was  pro- 
bably his  wife ;  the  others  were  about  thirty,  twenty- 
two,  and  eighteen  years  of  age.  The  first  two  of 
these,  were  supposed  to  be  married  to  the  two  old- 
est of  the  young  men,  and  had  infants  slung  in  a 
kind  of  bag  at  their  backs,  much  in  the  same  way 
as  gipsies  are  accustomed  to  carry  their  children. 
There  were  also  seven  children,  from  twelve  to 
three  years  of  age,  besides  the  two  infants  in  arms, 
or  rather  behind  their  mothers'  backs. 

Capt.  Parry  began,  as  before,  by  buying  whatev- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  241 

er  they  had  to  dispose  of,  giving  in  exchange  knives, 
axes,  brass  kettles,  needles,  and  other  useful  arti- 
cles, and  then  added  such  presents  as  might  be  fur- 
ther serviceable  to  them.     From  the  first  moment  of 
his  arrival  until  he  left  them,  or  rather  until  he  had 
nothing  left  to  give,  the  females  were  particularly 
importunate,   and   'pilletay'    resounded   from   the 
whole  troop,  wherever  the  party  went.    They  were 
extremely   anxious   to    obtain   buttons,  apparently 
more  on  account  of  the  ornament  of  the  crown  and 
anchor  which  they  observed  upon  them,  than  from 
any  value  they  set  upon  their  use ;  and  several  of 
these  were  cut  off,  to  please  their  fancy.     When 
Capt.  Parry  first   endeavoured   to   bargain   for    a 
sledge,  the  persons  he  addressed  gave  him  distinct- 
ly to  understand  by  signs,  that  it  was  not  their 
property,    and   pointed   towards   the  w^oman   who 
owned  it ;  though  his  ignorance  in  this  respect  of- 
fered a  good  opportunity  of  defrauding  him,  had 
they  been  so  inclined,  by  receiving  an  equivalent 
for  that  which  did  not  belong  to  them.    On  the  own- 
er's coming  forward,  the  bargain  was  quickly  con- 
cluded.    The  pikes  which  Capt.  Parry  gave  in  ex- 
change, underwent  the  usual  ceremony  of  Hcking, 
and  the  sledge  was  carried  to  the  boat  w^ith  the 
most  perfect   understanding   on    both    sides.      In 
another  instance,  an  axe  was  offered  by  some  of  the 
Griper's  gentlemen,  as  the  price  of  a  dog,  to  which 
the  woman  who  owned  the  animal  consented.     To 
show  that  they  placed  full  confidence  in  them,  the 
axe  was^'given  to  her  before  the  dog  was  caught,  and 
she  immediately  went  away  with  a  kind  of  halter 
21 


242  POLAR    REGIONS. 

or  harness  of  thongs,  which  they  use  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  honestly  brought  one  of  the  finest  among 
them,  though  nothing  would  have  been  easier  than 
to  have  evaded  the  performance  of  her  contract. 
The  readiness,  however,  with  which  they  generally 
parted  with  their  commodities,  was  by  no  means  the 
effect  of  fear,  nor  did  it  always  depend  on  the  value 
of  the  articles  offered  in  exchange ;  for  having,  as 
he  thought,  concluded  a  bargain  for  a  second  canoe 
belonging  to  the  old  woman,  Capt.  Parry  desired 
the  men  to  hand  it  down  to  the  boat :  but  he  soon 
perceived  that  he  had  misunderstood  her,  for  she 
clung  fast  to  the  canoe,  and  cried  most  piteously 
till  it  was  set  down ;  he  then  offered  a  larger  price 
than  before,  but  she  could  not  be  induced  to  part 
with  it. 

The  stature  of  these  people,  like  that  of  Esqui- 
maux in  general,  is  much  below  the  usual  standard. 
The  height  of  the  old  man,  who  was  rather  bent  by 
age,  was  four  feet  eleven  inches,  and  that  of  the 
other  men  from  five  feet  four  and  a  half  to  five  feet 
six  inches.  Their  faces  are  round  and  plump  in 
the  younger  individuals  ;  skin  smooth  ;  complexion 
not  very  dark,  except  that  of  the  old  man ;  teeth 
very  white ;  eyes  small ;  nose  broad,  but  not  very 
flat ;  hair  black,  straight  and  glossy ;  and  their  hands 
and  feet  extremely  diminutive.  The  old  man  had 
a  grey  beard  in  which  the  black  hairs  predominated, 
and  wore  the  hair  rather  long  upon  his  upper  lip, 
which  was  also  the  case  with  the  eldest  of  the  three 
others.  One  of  these,  the  white  men  thought,  bore 
a  striking  resemblance  to  their  poor  friend  John 


POLAR    REGIONS.  243 

Sacheuse,  well  known  as  the  Esquimaux  who  ac- 
companied the  former  Expedition,  the  want  of 
whose  services  they  particularly  felt  on  this  occa- 
sion, and  whose  premature  death  had  been  sincere- 
ly lamented  by  all  who  knew  him,  as  an  intelligent 
and  amiable  man,  and  a  valuable  member  of  so- 
ciety. 

The  grown-up  females  measured  from  four  feet 
ten  to  four  feet  eleven  inches.  The  features  of  the 
two  youngest  were  regular ;  their  complexions  clear, 
and  by  no  means  dark  ;  their  eyes  small,  black,  and 
piercing ;  teeth  beautifully  white  and  perfect ;  and 
although  the  form  of  their  faces  is  round  and  chub- 
by, and  their  noses  rather  flat  than  otherwise,  their 
countenances  might,  perhaps,  be  considered  pleaS' 
ing,  even  according  to  the  ideas  of  beauty  which 
habit  has  taught  us  to  entertain.  Their  hair,  which 
is  jet  black,  hangs  doAvn  long  and  loose  about 
their  shoulders,  a  part  of  it  on  each  side  being  care- 
lessly plaited,  and  sometimes  rolled  up  into  an  awk- 
ward lump,  instead  of  being  neatly  tied  on  the  top 
of  the  head,  as  the  Esquimaux  women  in  most  oth- 
er parts  are  accustomed  to  wear  it.  The  youngest 
female  had  much  natural  bashfulness  and  timidity, 
and  was  considered  to  be  the  only  unmarried  one, 
as  she  differed  from  the  other  three  in  not  being 
tattooed  upon  the  face.  Two  of  them  had  their 
hands  tattooed  also,  and  the  old  woman  had  a  few 
marks  of  the  same  kind  about  each  wrist.  None 
of  the  men  or  children  were  thus  distinguished. 

The  children  were  generally  good-looking,  and 
the  eldest  boy,  about  twelve  years  of  age,  was  a  re- 


244  POLAR    REGIONS. 

markably  fine  and  even  handsome  lad.  They  were 
rather  scared  at  first ;  but  kind  treatment  and  a  few 
trifling  presents  soon  removed  their  fears,  and  made 
them  almost  as  importunate  as  the  rest. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Dress  of  the  Esquimaux. — Description  of  their  Tents. — Description  of  their 
Canoes, — Implements  used  in  the  Fishery. — Their  Sledges. — Esquimaux 
Dogs. — Their  Voracity. — Household  Economy. 

The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  seal-skin 
jacket,  with  a  hood,  which  is  occasionally  drawn 
over  the  head,  of  which  it  forms  the  only  covering. 
The  breeches  are  also  generally  of  seal-skin,  and  are 
made  to  reach  below  the  knee,  and  their  boots, 
which  meet  the  breeches,  are  made  of  the  same 
material.  In  this  dress  there  was  no  difference 
from  that  of  other  Esquimaux,  except  that  the 
jacket,  instead  of  having  a  pointed  flap  before  and 
behind,  as  usual,  was  quite  straight  behind,  and  had 
a  sort  of  scollop  before  in  the  centre.  In  the  dress 
of  the  women  there  was  not  so  much  regard  to  de- 
cency as  in  that  of  the  men.  The  jacket  is  of  seal- 
skin, with  a  short  pointed  flap  before,  and  a  long 
one  behind,  reaching  almost  to  the  ground.  They 
had  on  a  kind  of  drawers,  similar  to  those  described 
by  Crantz  as  the  summer  dress  of  the  Greenland 
women,  and  no  breeches.  The  drawers  cover  the 
middle  part  of  the  body,  from  the  hips  to  one-third 
down  the  thigh,  the  rest  of  which  is  entirely  naked 


POLAR    REGIONS.  245 

nearly  as  far  as  the  knee.  The  boots  are  like  those 
of  the  men,  and  besides  these  they  have  a  pair  of 
very  loose  leggins,  as  they  may  be  called,  which 
hang  down  carelessly  upon  the  top  of  the  boots, 
suffering  their  thighs  to  be  exposed  in  the  manner 
before  described,  but  which  may  be  intended  oc- 
casionally to  fasten  up,  so  as  to  complete  the  cover- 
ing of  the  whole  body.  The  children  are  all  re- 
markably well  clothed ;  their  dress,  both  in  male 
and  female,  being  in  every  respect  the  same  as  that 
of  the  men,  and  composed  entirely  of  seal-skin,  very 
neatly  sewed. 

The  tents  which  are  their  summer  habitations 
are  principally  supported  by  a  long  pole  of  whale- 
bone, fourteen  feet  high,  standing  perpendicu- 
larly, with  four  or  five  feet  of  it  projecting  above 
the  skins  which  form  the  roof  and  sides.  The 
length  of  the  tent  is  seventeen,  and  its  breadth  from 
seven  to  nine  feet,  the  narrow^est  part  being  next 
the  door,  and  widening  towards  the  inner  part, 
where  the  bed,  composed  of  a  quantity  of  the  small 
shrubby  plant,  the  Andromeda  Tetragona,  occupies 
about  one-third  of  the  whole  apartment.  The  pole 
of  the  tent  is  fixed  where  the  bed  commences,  and 
the  latter  is  kept  separate  by  some  pieces  of  bone 
laid  across  the  tent  from  side  to  side.  The  door, 
which  faces  the  southwest,  is  also  formed  of  two 
pieces  of  bone,  with  the  upper  ends  fastened  to- 
gether, and  the  skins  are  made  to  overlap  in  that 
part  of  the  tent,  which  is  much  lower  than  the  inner 
end.  The  covering  is  fastened  to  the  ground  by 
curved  pieces  of  bone,  being  generally  parts  of  the 
21* 


246  POLAR    REGIONS. 

whale  ;  the  tents  were  ten  or  fifteen  yards  apart,  and 
about  the  same  distance  from  the  beach. 

The  canoe  which   Capt.    Parry  purchased,  and 
which  was  one  of  the  best  of  the  five  that  he  saw, 
was  sixteen  feet  eleven  inches  in  length,  and  its  ex- 
treme breadth  two  feet  one  inch  and  a  half;  two 
feet  of  its  fore-end  were  out  of  the  water  when  float- 
ing.    It  differed  from  the  canoe  of  Greenland,  in 
being  somewhat  lower  at  each  end,  and  also  in 
having  a  higher  rim   or   gun-wale,  as  it  may  be 
termed,  round  the  circular  hole  where  the  man  sits, 
which   may   make   them   somewhat   safer   at   sea. 
Their  construction  is,  in  other  respects,  much  the 
same,  the   timbers,  or  ribs,  which  are  five  or  six 
inches  apart,  as  well  as  the  fore  and  aft  connecting 
pieces,  being  of  whalebone  or  drift-wood,  and  the 
skins  with  which  they  were  covered,  those  of  the 
seal  and  walrus.     When  the  canoes    are  taken  on 
shore,  they  are  carefully  placed  on  two  upright  piles 
or  pillars  of  stones,  four  feet  high  from  the  ground, 
in  order  to  allow  the  air  to  pass  under  to  dry  them, 
and  prevent  their  rotting.     The  paddle  is  double 
and  made  of  fir,  the  edges  of  the  blade  being  cov- 
ered with  hard  bone,  to  secure  them  from  wear- 
ing. 

The  spears  or  darts,  which  they  use  in  killing 
seals  and  other  sea  animals,  consist,  like  the  har- 
poons of  our  fishermen,  of  two  parts,  a  staff",  and 
the  spear  itself;  the  former  is  usually  of  wood, 
when  so  scarce  and  valuable  a  commodity  can  be 
obtained,  from  three  and  a  half  to  five  feet  in  length, 
and  the  latter  of  bone,  about  eighteen  inches  long, 


POLAR   REGIONS.  247 

sometimes  tipped  with  iron,  but  more  commonly 
ground  to  a  blunt  point  at  one  end,  while  the  other 
fits  into  a  socket  in  the  staff,  to  which  it  is  firmly 
secured  by  thongs.  The  lines  which  they  attach 
to  their  spears  are  very  neatly  cut  out  of  seal-skins, 
and  when  in  a  state  of  preparation  are  left  to  stretch 
till  dry,  between  the  tents,  and  then  made  up  into 
coils  for  use.  They  make  use  of  a  bladder  fastened 
to  the  end  of  the  line,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
other  Esquimaux.  Beside  the  spears,  Capt.  Parry 
purchased  an  instrument  having  a  rude  hook  of 
iron  let  into  a  piece  of  bone,  and  secured  by  thongs 
to  a  staff,  the  hook  being  sharply  pointed,  but  not 
barbed.  While  Capt.  Parry  was  on  the  island  (to 
which  he  had  applied  the  name  of  Observation 
Island),  it  happened  that  a  small  bird  flew  near, 
when  one  of  the  Esquimaux  made  the  sign  of  shoot- 
ing it  with  a  bow  and  arrow,  in  a  manner  which 
could  not  be  misunderstood.  It  is  remarkable, 
therefore,  that  none  of  these  weapons  were  found 
about  their  tents,  except  a  little  one  of  five  or  six 
inches  long,  the  bow  being  made  of  whalebone,  and 
the  arrow  of  fir,  with  a  feather  at  one  end,  and  a 
blunt  point  of  bone  at  the  other,  evidently  appear- 
ing to  be  a  child's  toy,  and  intended,  perhaps,  to 
teach  the  use  of  it  at  an  early  age. 

The  runners  of  the  only  sledge  seen  were  com- 
posed of  the  right  and  left  jaw-bones  of  a  young 
whale,  being  nine  feet  nine  inches  long,  one  foot 
seven  inches  apart,  and  seven  inches  high  from  the 
ground.  They  are  connected  by  a  number  of  par- 
allel pieces,  made   of  the  ribs  of  the  whale,  and 


248  POLAR    REGIONS. 

secured  transversely  with  seizings  of  whalebone,  so 
as  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  sledge,  and  the  back 
is  made  of  two  deers'  horns  placed  in  an  upright 
position.  The  lower  part  of  the  runners  is  shod 
with  a  harder  kind  of  bone,  to  resist  the  friction 
against  the  ground.  The  whole  vehicle  is  rudely 
executed,  and,  being  nearly  twice  the  weight  of 
the  sledges  seen  among  the  northern  Esquimaux,  is 
probably  intended  for  carrying  heavy  burdens.  The 
dogs  were  not  less  than  fifty  or  sixty  in  number, 
and  had  nothing  about  them  different  from  those  on 
the  eastern  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay,  except  they  do 
not  stand  near  so  high  as  those  of  the  latitude  of 
76°.  They  are  very  shy  and  wild,  and  the  natives 
had  great  difficulty  in  catching  them  while  the 
whites  w^ere  by,  as  well  as  holding  them  in  when 
caught.  Some  of  them  have  much  more  of  the 
wolf  in  their  appearance  than  others,  having  very 
long  heads  and  sharp  noses,  with  a  brushy  tail, 
almost  always  carried  between  the  legs ;  while  the 
bodies  of  others  are  less  lank,  their  noses  are 
less  sharp,  and  they  carry  their  tails  handsomely 
curled  over  their  backs :  their  color  varie  d  from 
quite  dark  to  brindled.  The  ravenous  manner  in 
which  they  devour  their  food  is  almost  incredible. 
Both  the  old  and  young  ones,  when  a  bird  is  given 
them,  generally  swallow  feathers  and  all :  and  an 
old  dog  that  Capt.  Parry  purchased,  though  regu- 
larly fed,  while  on  board,  by  a  person  appointed  for 
that  purpose,  ate  up,  with  great  avidity,  a  large  piece 
of  canvass,  a  cotton  handkerchief,  which  one  of  the 
men  had  just  washed  and  laid  down  by  his  side, 


POLAR  REGIONS.  249 

and  a  part  of  a  check  shirt.  The  young  dogs  will 
at  any  time  kill  themselves  by  over-eating,  if  per- 
mitted. The  children  appeared  to  have  some  right 
of  property  in  the  smaller  puppies,  or  else  their  pa- 
rents are  very  indulgent  to  them ;  for  several  bar- 
gains of  this  kind  were  made  with  them,  without 
any  objection  or  interference  on  the  part  of  the  pa- 
rents, who  were  standing  by  at  the  time. 

Within  a  few  stones,  irregularly  placed  in  a  cor- 
ner of  each  tent,  was  a  lamp  of  oil  and  moss,  and 
over  each  of  these  was  suspended  a  small  stone 
vessel  of  an  oblong  shape,  and  broader  at  the  top 
than  at  the  bottom,  containing  a  large  mess  of  sea- 
horse flesh,  with  a  great  quantity  of  thick  gravy. 
Some  ribs  of  this  meat  were  by  no  means  bad  look- 
ing, and  but  for  the  blood  mixed  with  the  gravy, 
and  the  dirt  which  accompanied  the  cooking,  might, 
perhaps,  be  palatable  enough.  Capt.  Parry  bar- 
gained with  a  woman  for  one  of  the  stone  vessels, 
giving  her  a  brass  kettle  in  exchange.  Before  she 
gave  it  into  his  possession,  she  emptied  the  meat 
into  another  vessel,  and  then,  with  the  flap  of  her 
jacket,  wiped  out  the  remains  of  the  gravy ;  thus 
combining  with  what  our  notions  of  cleanliness  in- 
cline us  to  consider  a  filthy  act,  an  intention  of  de- 
cency, and  a  desire  to  oblige,  which,  however  in- 
consistent, it  was  still  pleasing  to  observe.  Some 
of  their  vessels  were  made  of  whalebone,  in  a  cir- 
cular form,  one  piece  being  bent  into  the  proper 
shape  for  the  sides,  and  another  flat  piece  of  the 
same  material  sewn  to  it  for  a  bottom,  so  closely  as 
to  make  it  perfectly  water  tight.     Their  knives  are 


250  POLAR    REGIONS. 

made  of  the  tusks  of  the  walrus,  cut  or  ground  suf- 
ficiently thin  for  the  purpose,  and  retaining  the  ori- 
ginal curve  of  the  tusk,  so  as  to  resemble  the  little 
swords  which  children  have  as  toys  in  England. 
As  they  do  not  appear  to  have  any  instrument  like 
a  saw,  great  time  and  labor  must  be  required  in 
making  one  of  these  knives,  which  seem  to  answer 
most  of  the  purposes  to  which  they  have  occasion 
to  apply  them. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Farther  Particulars  respecting  the  Esquimaux. — Their  Number. — Health. 
— Demeanour. — Return  of  the  Expedition  to  England. 

Several  proofs  were  observed  that  this  people 
had  had  some  previous  communication,  directly  or 
indirectly,  with  the  civilized  world ;  such  as  some 
light  blue  beads,  strung  by  themselves  on  thin 
leathern  threads ;  and  an  instrument  for  chopping, 
very  much  resembUng  a  cooper's  adze,  which  had 
evidently  been  secured  to  a  handle  of  bone  for 
some  time  past,  and  of  which  the  iron  was  part  of 
an  old  file. 

The  short  time  which  our  friends  were  among 
them,  as  well  as  the  want  of  an  interpreter,  pre- 
vented theit*  obtaining  much  of  the  information, 
which  would  have  been  interesting,  respecting  the 
language,  manners,  and  number  of  this  tribe  of  Es- 
quimaux. They  call  the  bear,  nennook;  the  deer, 
tooktook ;  and  the  hare,  ookalik ;  being  nearly  the 


POLAR  REGIONS.  251 

same  words  as  those  used  on  the  eastern  coast  of 
Baffin's  Bay.  As  it  was  considered  a  matter  of 
some  interest  to  ascertain  whether  they  were  ac- 
quainted with  the  musk-ox,  a  drawing  of  that  ani- 
mal was  put  before  the  men  w'ho  were  on  board. 
The  small  size  of  it  seemed,  at  first  sight,  to  con- 
found them ;  but,  as  soon  as  a  real  head  and  horns 
w^ere  produced,  they  immediately  recognised  them, 
and  eagerly  repeated  the  w^ord  oamingmack,  which 
at  once  satisfied  us,  that  they  knew  the  musk-ox, 
and  that  this  was  the  animal  spoken  of  by  the  Es- 
quimaux of  Greenland,  under  the  same  name,  some- 
w^hat  dilFerently  pronounced. 

To  judge  by  their  appearance,  and  what  is  a 
better  criterion,  the  number  of  their  children,  there 
could  be  little  doubt  that  the  means  of  subsistence 
which  they  possess  are  very  abundant ;  but  of  this 
there  was  more  direct  proof,  in  the  quantity  of  sea- 
horses and  seals  found  concealed  under  stones, 
along  the  shore  of  the  north  branch,  as  well  as  on 
Observation  Island.  Mr  Fife  reported  that,  in 
sounding  the  north  branch,  he  met  with  their  win- 
ter-huts, above  two  miles  above  the  tents  on  the 
same  shore,  and  that  they  were  partly  excavated 
from  a  bank  facing  the  sea,  and  the  re^  built  round 
with  stones. 

No  appearance  of  disease  was  seen  among  the 
seventeen  persons  who  inhabited  the  tents,  except 
that  the  eyes  of  the  old  couple  were  rather  blear- 
ed, and  a  very  young  infant  looked  pale  and  sickly. 
The  old  man  had  a  large  scar  on  one  side  of  his 
head,  w^hich  he  explained  very  clearly  to  be  a  wound 


252  POLAR   REGIONS. 

he  had  received  from  a  nennook  (bear).  Upon  the 
whole,  these  people  may  be  considered  in  possession 
of  every  necessary  of  hfe,  as  well  as  of  most  of  the 
comforts  and  conveniences  which  can  be  enjoyed 
in  so  rude  a  state  of  society.  In  the  situation  and 
circumstances  in  which  the  Esquimaux  of  North 
Greenland  are  placed,  there  is  much  to  excite  com- 
passion for  the  low  state  to  w^hich  human  nature 
appears  to  be  there  reduced ;  a  state  in  few  re- 
spects superior  to  that  of  the  bear  or  the  seal,  which 
they  kill  for  their  subsistence.  But,  with  these,  it 
was  impossible  not  to  experience  a  feeling  of  a  more 
pleasing  kind :  there  was  a  respectful  decency  in 
their  general  behaviour,  which  at  once  struck  the 
visitors  as  very  different  from  that  of  the  other  un- 
tutored Esquimaux,  and  in  their  persons  there  was 
less  of  that  intolerable  filth  by  which  these  people 
are  so  generally  distinguished.  But  the  superiority 
for  which  they  are  the  most  remarkable  is,  the  per- 
fect honesty  which  characterized  all  their  dealings. 
During  the  two  hours  that  the  men  were  on  board, 
and  for  four  or  five  hours  that  they  were  subse- 
quently among  them  on  shore,  on  both  which  oc- 
casions the  temptation  to  steal  was  perhaps  strong- 
er than  we  can  well  imagine,  and  the  opportunity 
of  doing  so  by  no  means  wanting,  not  a  single  in- 
stance occurred,  of  their  pilfering  the  most  trifling 
article.  It  is  pleasing  to  record  a  fact,  no  less 
singular  in  itself,  than  honorable  to  these  simple 
people. 

Having  made   the   necessary  observations,   the 
whites  went  to  the  tents  to  take  leave  of  their  new 


POLAR  REGIONS.  253 

acquaintance.  The  old  man  seemed  quite  fatigued 
with  the  day's  exertions,  but  his  eyes  sparkled  with 
delight,  and  it  was  thought  with  gratitude  too,  on 
being  presented  with  another  brass  kettle,  to  add  to 
the  stores  with  which  they  had  already  enriched 
him.  He  seemed  to  understand  them  when  they 
shook  him  by  the  hand ;  the  whole  group  watched 
them  in  silence,  as  they  went  into  the  boat,  and,  as 
soon  as  they  had  rowed  a  few  hundred  yards  from 
the  beach,  quietly  retired  to  their  tents. 

After  leaving  the  river  Clyde,  the  ships  proceeded 
along  the  shore  till  the  12th,  when  they  came  to 
the  ice.  The  coast  was  generally  found  moun- 
tainous, and  presented  the  same  features  as  the 
lands  already  described.  Finding  the  state  of  the 
ice  such  as  to  preclude  the  possibihty  of  following 
the  shore  any  farther,  they  ran  back  along  its  edge 
to  the  northward,  in  order  to  get  round  it,  if  pos- 
sible. 

We  suppose  that  by  this  time  the  reader  is  tired 
of  bergs,  and  fields,  and  floes;  and  shall  not  there- 
fore say  anything  more  of  their  exit  from  Baflln's 
Bay  or  of  their  passage  across  the  Atlantic.  Let 
it  suffice  that  the  ships  parted  company.  The  Hec- 
la  arrived  at  the  Orkney  Islands  on  the  28th  of 
October,  and  the  Griper  on  the  first  of  November. 
Thus  did  they  return  from  a  voyage  of  eighteen 
months  duration,  in  good  health  and  spirits,  with  the 
loss  of  only  one  man. 


22 


CAPTAIN    PARRY'S 


SECOND    VOYAGE   OF   DISCOVERY. 


CHAPTER    L 

The  Hecla  and  Fury  fitted  out. — They  reach  Davis'  Strait. — Difficulties 
in  the  Ice. — The  Ships  are  visited  by  Esquimaux. — Their  Behaviour. 

The  discoveries  made  by  the  expedition  under  Capt. 
Parry  in  1819--20  being  believed  to  afford  a  strong 
presumption  of  the  existence  of  a  Northwest  Passage 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  British  government  com- 
manded that  another  attempt  should  be  made  to 
discover  it.  The  Hecla  having  been  found  well 
adapted  to  this  kind  of  service,  the  Fury,  a  ship  of 
precisely  the  same  class,  was  selected  to  accompa- 
ny her.  Capt.  George  F.  Lyon  was  appointed  to 
command  the  Hecla,  and  Capt.  Parry,  whose  efforts 
had  made  him  justly  celebrated,  was  commissioned 
to  command  the  expedition. 

Some  alterations  in  the  interior  arrangements  of 
the  vessels,  such  as  were  suggested  by  the  ex- 
perience of  Capt.  Parry,  were  made.  Among  these 
was  an  apparatus  for  melting  snow,  which  was  found 


POLAR    REGIONS.  255 

very  useful,  and  was  so  little  in  the  way  that  it  could 
not  even  be  seen.  Cots  and  hammocks  were  sub- 
stituted for  the  former  bed  places,  and  some  im- 
provements were  made  in  the  manner  of  victualling 
the  ships. 

In  his  official  instructions,  Capt.  Parry  was  di- 
rected to  proceed  into  Hudson's  Strait  till  he  should 
meet  the  ice,  when  the  Nautilus  Transport,  which 
was  placed  at  his  disposal,  was  to  be  cleared  of  its 
provisions  and  stores.  He  was  then  to  penetrate 
westward  till  he  should  reach  some  land  which  he 
should  be  convinced  was  a  part  of  the  American 
continent y  at  some  point  north  of  Wager  River.  If 
he  reached  the  Pacific,  he  was  to  proceed  to  Kam- 
schatka;  thence  to  Canton  or  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  thence  to  England,  by  whatever  route  he  might 
deem  most  convenient. 

Accordingly,  in  the  beginning  of  April,  1821,  the 
tly^ee  vessels  sailed  from  England.  Nothing  wor- 
thy of  note  occurred  till  they  met  with  the  ice  in 
Davis'  Strait,  where  the  vessels  were  moored  to  an 
iceberg,  and  the  Nautilus  was  unladen.  This  done, 
she  parted  company  on  the  1st  of  July,  and  sailed 
for  England,  while  the  Fury  and  Hecla  stood  to- 
ward the  ice,  which  they  reached  a  little  before 
noon,  and  ran  along  its  edge,  keeping  as  much  to 
the  westward  as  possible. 

On  the  third,  the  ice  prevented  their  farther  pro- 
gress in  that  direction,  covering  the  whole  sea  as 
far  as  the  eye  might  reach.  In  the  afternoon,  the 
ships  entered  it  with  the  tide,  which  carried  them 
at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour.     It  here  con- 


256  POLAR    REGIONS. 

sisted  of  large,  though  loose  pieces  of  broken  floes, 
with  many  high  hummocks,  and  drawing  a  great 
deal  of  water. 

A  fresh  breeze  springing  up  on  the  morning  of  the 
5th,  they  succeeded  in  pushing  the  ships  in  shore, 
where  they  found  a  lane  of  tolerably  open  water ; 
but  as  the  tide  was  against  them,  as  soon  as  they 
came  to  the  end  of  the  lane  they  drifted  to  the 
eastward,  and  lost  the  litde  distance  they  had  gained. 
They  were  now  within  six  miles  of  the  south  point 
of  Resolution  Island,  which  is  in  latitude  61°  20'  and 
longitude  64°  55', 

In  the  night,  a  considerable  swell  caused  the  ships 
to  strike  violently  and  constantly  against  the  ice. 
They  remained  thus  beset  several  hours,  drifting 
about  at  random.  In  the  morning,  they  were  five 
or  six  miles  apart.  This  exposure  to  the  swell  of 
the  main  ocean  is  the  principal  danger  on  first  en- 
tering the  ice  about  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  Strait, 
which  is  completely  open  to  the  Atlantic.  A  small 
quantity  of  loose  ice  is  sufficient  to  protect  a  ship 
from  the  sea,  provided  it  be  closely  packed;  but 
when  the  pieces  are  so  far  separate  as  to  admit  the 
swell,  the  concussions  are  too  violent  for  a  ship  to 
resist  long.  On  this  account  it  is  prudent  not  to 
enter  the  ice,  unless  there  is  a  fair  prospect  of  get- 
ting twenty  or  thirty  miles  within  the  margin. 

The  ships  remained  thus  beset  till  the  morning 
of  the  16th,  when  the  ice  loosening,  they  commenced 
*  boring,'  and  continued  the  operation  the  whole 
day,  which  enabled  them  to  join  three  vessels,  that 
had  been  in  sight  some  days.     They  were  bound 


POLAR    REGIONS.  257 

to  Hudson's  Bay,  with  emigrants  to  Lord  Selkirk's 
settlement  on  the  Red  River.  Thus  they  proceeded 
slowly  till  the  21st,  when  the  wind  coming  ahead, 
they  made  fast  to  a  floe  near  an  island.  While  in 
the  act  of  mooring,  they  heard  voices  in  shore,  and 
presently  saw^  some  Esquimaux  coming  off  to  them. 
Seventeen  of  them  came  alongside  the  Fury. 
Having  hauled  their  kayaks  (canoes)  upon  the  floe, 
they  began  to  barter  their  commodities,  consisting 
of  seal  and  whale  blubber,  whale-bone,  spears, 
lines,  and  the  skins  of  the  seal,  bear,  fox,  deer,  and 
dog.  Capt.  Parry's  first  endeavour  was  to  procure 
as  much  oil  as  possible,  of  which,  as  he  had  been 
informed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  ships,  several  tons 
are  thus  almost  annually  obtained  from  these  peo- 
ple. He  soon  found  that  they  had  been  well  ac- 
customed to  bargain-making,  for  it  was  with  some 
difficulty  that  he  could  prevail  upon  them  to  sell  the 
oil  for  anything  of  reasonable  value.  They  fre- 
quently gave  the  whites  to  understand  that  they 
wanted  saws  and  harpoons  in  exchange  for  it,  and 
as  these  were  articles  which  they  could  not  spare, 
it  was  not  without  trouble  that  they  obtained,  in 
the  course  of  the  evening,  two  barrels  of  blubber,  in 
exchange  for  several  knives,  large  nails,  and  pieces 
of  iron  hoop,  which  was  certainly  a  dear  bargain  on 
their  side.  If  the  savages  saw  more  than  one  of  these 
at  a  time,  they  would  try  hard  to  get  the  whole  for 
the  commodity  they  were  offering;  though,  when 
the  English  had  for  some  time  persisted  in  refusing, 
they  would  not  only  accept  what  was  offered,  but 
jump  for  joy  at  having  obtained  it.  They  always 
22* 


258  POLAR    REGIONS. 

licked  the  articles  given  them,  and  in  one  instance 
only  was  manifested  any  inclination  to  break  the 
contract  after  this  process  had  been  gone  through. 
Shortly  after  these  men  had  arrived,  a  large  oomiak, 
or  women's  boat,  made  its  appearance,  containing 
six  or  seven  females  and  four  men,  the  oldest  of 
the  latter,  as  seemed  usual  among  them,  steering 
the  boat  with  a  rude  oar  of  wood.     The  women 
could  not  be  induced  to  land  upon  the  floe,  but 
held  up  skins  and  small  narrow  strips  of  well-tanned 
leather   to    exchange,    loudly   vociferating  pilletay 
(give  me)  the  whole  time.     There  were  in  this  boat 
several  skins  of  oil  and  blubber,  which  Capt.  Parry 
tried  hard  to  purchase,  but  nothing  could  induce 
the  old  man  to  part  with  more  than  one  skin  of  it ; 
for  what  reason  the  Captain  could  not  tell,  except 
that  he  hoped,  by  perseverance,  to  obtain  a  higher 
price.     On  Capt.  Parry's  desiring  his  men  to  hand 
out  a  second  skin  of  oil,  as  an  equivalent  for  which 
he  put  into  the  old  man's  hand  a  second  knife,  he 
resisted  most  vehemently,  pushing  the  men  aside 
in  the  boat  with  a  violence  the  Captain  had  never 
seen  the  Esquimaux  use  on  any  other  occasion. 
One  of  the  younger  men  then  came  forward,  and 
was  lifting  up  the  stretcher  of  their  boat,  to  strike 
the  people,  who  were  good-humoredly  laughing  at 
the  old  man's  violence,  when  Capt.  Parry  thought 
it  high  time  to  interpose,  and  raising  a  boat-hook 
over  the  head  of  the  Esquimaux,  as  if  about  to  strike 
them,  soon  brought  them  into  a  cooler  mood ;  after 
which,  to  prevent  further  altercation,  he  ordered 
his  people  out  of  the  boat.     They  had,  by  this  time^^ 


POLAR    REGIONS.  259 

succeeded  in  purchasing  all  the  oil  brought  by  the 
first  canoes ;  and  as  the  old  fellow,  who  was  com- 
manding officer  of  the  oomiak,  obstinately  persisted 
in  his  refusal  to  sell  his,  Capt.  Parry  ordered  him 
away,  when  he  immediately  rowed  to  the  Hecla, 
and  sold  his  oil  for  less  than  he  might  have  obtained 
at  first.  Four  other  oomiaks  afterwards  came  from 
the  shore,  from  which  the  ships  were  distant  five  or 
six  miles.  Each  of  these  contained  from  fourteen 
to  twentysix  persons,  the  majority  being  females 
and  young  children.  Upon  the  whole,  not  less 
than  one*hundred  of  the  natives  visited  the  ships  in 
the  course  of  the  evening. 

These  people  possessed  in  an  eminent  degree 
the  disposition  to  steal  all  they  could  lay  their  hands 
on,  which  has  almost  universally  been  imputed  to 
every  tribe  of  Esquimaux  hitherto  visited  by  Euro- 
peans. They  more  than  once  tried  the  art  of 
picking  pockets,  and  were  as  bold  and  unembar- 
rassed as  ever,  immediately  after  detection.  It  is 
impossible  to  describe  the  horribly  disgusting  man- 
ner in  which  they  sat  down,  as  soon  as  they  felt 
hungry,  to  eat  their  raw  blubber,  and  to  suck  the  oil 
remaining  on  the  skins  they  had  just  emptied,  the 
very  smell  of  which,  as  well  as  the  appearance,  was 
to  the  sailors  almost  insufferable.  The  disgust 
which  the  seamen  could  not  help  expressing  at  this 
sight  seemed  to  create  in  the  Esquimaux  the  most 
malicious  amusement ;  and  when  the  whites  turned 
away,  literally  unable  to  bear  the  sight  without  be- 
ing sick,  they  would,  as  a  good  joke  among  them- 
selves, run  after  them,  holding  out  a  piece  of  blubber 


260  POLAR  REGIONS. 

or  raw  seal's  flesh,  dripping  with  oil  and  filth,  as  if 
inviting  them  to  partake  of  it.  Both  the  men  and 
women  were  guilty  of  still  more  disgusting  indecen- 
cies, which  seemed  to  afford  them  amazing  diver- 
sion. A  worse  trait  even  than  all  this  was  displayed 
by  two  women  alongside  the  Hecla,  who,  in  a  man- 
ner too  unequivocal  to  be  misunderstood,  offered 
to  barter  their  children  for  some  article  of  trifling 
value,  beginning  very  deliberately  to  strip  them  of 
their  clothes,  which  they  did  not  choose  to  consider 
as  included  in  the  intended  bargain. 

Upon  the  whole,  it  was  impossible  not  to  receive 
a  very  unfavorable  impression  of  the  general  beha- 
viour and  moral  character  of  the  natives  of  this 
part  of  Hudson's  Strait,  who  seem  to  have  acquired, 
by  an  annual  intercourse  with  ships  for  nearly  a 
hundred  years,  many  of  the  vices  which  unhappily 
attend  a  first  intercourse  with  the  civilized  world, 
without  having  imbibed  any  of  the  virtues  or  refine- 
ments which  adorn  and  render  it  happy. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Offensive  Conduct  of  the  Esquimaux. — Description  of  the  Savage  Islands. 
—Ships  make  the  Coast  of  Labrador. — More  Esquimaux, 


Early  on  the  morning  of  the  22d,  the  Esquimaux 
visited  the  ships  again,  and  disturbed  the  chips' 
companies,  who  were  engaged  at  divine  worship, 


POLAR   REGIONS.  261 

by  their  clamor.  They  behaved  throughout  in  the 
same  offensive  manner.  A  little  before  noon,  the 
wind  coming  southward,  and  the  ice  being  some- 
what loosened,  the  ships  cast  off,  and  made  sail  up 
the  Strait.  As  they  proceeded,  both  wind  and  ice 
combined  to  favor  their  progress,  the  former  in 
strength  and  direction,  and  the  latter  by  opening  in- 
to loose  streams,  so  that,  for  the  first  time  since  en- 
tering the  Strait,  all  the  studding-sails  were  set, 
with  some  prospect  of  deriving  advantage  from 
them. 

On  the  24th,  they  reached  the  Savage  Islands, 
and  landed  on  one  of  them.  They  are  many — all 
exhibiting  the  same  appearance  of  utter  sterihty. 
That  on  which  they  landed  was  from  six  to  eight 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here  they 
noticed  the  same  appearances  of  an  Esquimaux 
camp  as  had  been  seen  at  Melville  Island,  with  a 
few  pieces  of  fir,  which  proved  that  the  savages  in 
these  parts  were  not  in  want  of  wood,  since  they 
could  afford  to  leave  it  behind  them.  Hares  and 
several  species  of  birds  were  seen  on  this  island. 

As  soon  as  the  exploring  party  returned  on  board, 
all  sail  was  made  to  the  westward,  the  sea  being 
now  nearly  free  from  ice.  The  next  day  the  hills 
on  the  coast  of  Labrador  were  seen.  Thus  they 
kept  on  till  the  3 1st,  discovering  islands  as  they 
proceeded.  On  the  afternoon  of  this  day,  an  Es- 
quimaux oomiak  was  seen  coming  from  the  shore  of 
Sahsbury  Island,  under  sail,  accompanied  by  eight 
kayaks.  In  this  boat  were  sixteen  persons,  of  which 
two  were  m.en,  and  the  rest  women,  and  children. 


262  POLAR    REGIONS. 

In  dress  and  personal  appearance  these  people  did 
not  differ  from  the  Esquimaux  last  seen,  but  their 
behaviour  was  far  less  offensive. 

On  the  first  of  August,  the  ships  kept  on  west- 
ward between  Nottingham  Island  and  the  north 
shore,  which  is  fringed  with  small  islands.  This 
channel  is  about  twelve  miles  wide.  In  the  course 
of  the  morning,  some  Esquimaux  came  to  the  ships 
from  the  main  land,  bringing  oil,  skin  dresses,  and 
walrus  tusks,  which  they  exchanged  for  any  trifle 
that  was  offered.  They  also  offered  toys  for  sale, 
such  as  models  of  canoes,  weapons,  &.c.  Here, 
for  the  first  time,  the  navigators  saw  the  dresses  of 
the  savages  lined  with  the  skins  of  birds,  having  the 
feathers  inside. 

Having  run  forty  miles  in  the  night  without  see- 
ing any  ice,  they  came  the  next  morning  to  a  pack 
so  close  as  to  prevent  their  farther  progress.  The 
ships  received  very  heavy  blows,  and  with  consid- 
erable difficulty  got  clear  of  it.  They  ran  along  the 
edge  several  miles  to  the  northward,  in  search  of 
an  opening ;  but  finding  none,  they  stood  back  to 
the  southwest,  to  try  what  could  be  done  in  that 
quarter. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  263 


CHAPTER  m. 

The  Ships  make  the  Northern  Land,  Southampton  Island,  Frozen  Strait. — 
The  Ice  begins  to  make. — The  Ship  gets  into  Winter  Cluarters. — Shrimps, 
Foxes. — A  Theatre  is  opened. — The  Northern  Lights. 

The  expedition  being  now  about  to  enter  upon 
ground  hitherto  unexplored,  it  became  necessary 
for  Capt.  Parry  to  decide  on  the  route  he  should 
pursue  with  most  advantage  ;  and  after  mature  de- 
liberation, he  came  to  the  resolution  to  attempt  a 
direct  passage  of  the  Frozen  Strait,  though  he  great- 
ly feared  the  loss  of  time  that  would  be  the  conse- 
quence of  a  failure. 

After  contending  with  the  ice  for  several  days, 
on  the  11th  the  ship  succeeded  in  getting  to  the 
northern  land,  and  a  party  of  the  officers  landed 
upon  a  small  rock,  or  islet,  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  shore.  They  found  it  to  consist  entirely  of 
gneiss  rock,  with  a  little  moss,  and  a  very  few  other 
plants  growing  in  the  crevices.  It  would  seem 
that  no  place,  however  barren,  is  exempt  from  the 
visits  of  the  Esquimaux  ;  for  their  traces  were  found 
even  here.  The  tide  rose  a  foot  in  less  than  an 
hour.  Soon  after  the  party  returned  on  board,  a 
fresh  gale  from  the  north  compelled  them  to  make 
the  ship  fast  to  the  largest  floe  near,  in  order  not 
to  lose  much  ground.  The  wind  drifted  them  back 
nine  or  ten  miles  to  the  eastward  during  the  night, 
but  was  nevertheless  of  great  service  to  them,  for 
it  dispersed  the  ice  so  as  to  leave  the  ships  room  to 


264  POLAR    REGIONS. 

work.  Here  it  may  be  remarked  that  they  always 
found  a  head  wind  of  considerable  advantage,  though 
it  blew  directly  against  them,  as  it  brought  away 
large  bodies  of  ice  from  that  quarter,  consequently 
leaving  an  interval  of  open  water. 

The  gale  moderated  about  noon,  and  they  cast 
off  from  the  floe,  and  made  sail.  They  made  con- 
siderable progress  till  evening,  when  the  ice  closed 
round  them  again.  They  could  now  see  the  north- 
ernmost point  of  Southampton  Island.  After  sun- 
set the  ice  opened  sufficiently  to  allow  them  to  get 
a  mile  or  two  farther.  Great  numbers  of  narwhales 
played  about  the  ships  all  night. 

The  weather  about  this  time  was  very  different 
from  that  to  which  our  voyagers  had  been  accus- 
tomed in  the  icy  seas.  The  days  were  tempe- 
rate and  clear,  and  the  nights  just  cold  enough  to 
form  a  very  thin  plate  of  ice  on  the  surface  of  the 
sea  in  sheltered  places,  and  in  the  pools  of  water 
on  the  floes. 

After  sunset  on  the  13th,  they  descried  land  to 
the  westward,  which  they  believed  to  be  a  part  of 
the  continent.  Yet  they  continued  closely  beset, 
and  on  the  15th  the  Hecla  drifted  back  with  the 
ice,  out  of  sight  of  her  consort.  This  was  partly 
owing  to  the  extraordinary  refraction  upon  the  ho- 
rizon, which  apparently  diminished  and  distorted 
objects  at  no  great  distance,  in  a  wonderful  man- 
ner. 

In  the  evening,  Capt.  Parry  left  the  Fury  in  a 
boat,  in  order  to  explore  the  channel,  and  landed 
on  Southampton  Island,  where  he  slept  all  night. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  265 

The  part  of  this  great  island  where  he  took  up  his 
lodgings  was  a  thousand  feet  high,  and  composed  of 
gneiss.  The  boat's  crew  made  a  tent  of  a  sail,  and 
passed  the  night  very  comfortably.  A  great  many 
whales  played  about  the  beach  all  night.  The  lati- 
tude of  this  place  was  65^  28'  and  the  longitude 
84^  40'. 

At  daylight,  Capt.  Parry  ascended  the  hill  above 
his  sleeping  place,  from  whence  he  perceived  land 
stretching  round  to  the  west  and  northward,  so  as 
apparently  to  leave  no  opening  in  that  quarter. 
This  land  appeared  low,  and  of  a  yellowish  color. 
To  the  westward  was  a  large  expanse  of  open 
water.  Traces  of  Esquimaux  were  observed  here 
also.  Moss,  sorrel,  ground  willow,  and  some  other 
plants  grew  in  the  hollows  and  fissures  in  the 
rocks,  in  abundance.  Soon  after  Capt.  Parry  re- 
turned on  board,  the  Hecla  hove  in  sight ;  upon 
which,  the  Fury  set  sail,  and  beat  through  the  chan- 
nel. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  the  weather  being 
too  foggy  to  move,  parties  from  both  ships  went  on 
shore  to  examine  the  country  and  to  procure  speci- 
mens of  its  natural  productions.  They  landed  on  a 
flat  and  very  rough  beach,  principally  composed  of 
sharp  masses  of  limestone,  over  which,  at  low  water, 
it  was  difficult  to  drag  the  boats.  Mixed  with  these 
-were  some  pieces  of  gneiss  and  granite,  but  the 
lime  is  by  far  the  most  abundant.  This  land,  which 
rises  gradually  from  the  beach,  but  is  in  no  part 
more  than  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  was  full  of  ponds  of  fresh  water,  and  in 
23 


2^6  POLAR    REGIONS. 

almost  all  the  intermediate  parts  there  was  abun- 
dance of  fine  vegetation,  consisting  of  grass,  moss, 
and  various  other  plants,  of  which  specimens  were 
brought  on  board.  A  splendid  specimen  of  the 
colymhus  arcticus,  and  also  a  red-throated  diver  (co- 
lymbus  septentrionalis),  were  obtained  by  the  gentle- 
men of  the  Hecla.  The  former,  though  very  wild, 
were  numerous,  as  were  also  plovers  of  two  kinds, 
the  charadrius  pluvialis,  and  hiaticula.  Nine  or  ten 
deer,  of  which  several  were  fawns,  with  a  large 
buck,  as  usual  bringing  up  the  rear  of  the  herd,  were 
met  w^ith  by  some  of  the  people,  but  they  w^ould 
not  suffer  themselves  to  be  approached  within  gun- 
shot. A  great  number  of  fine  black  whales  were 
playing  about  near  the  beach,  and,  from  the  total 
absence  of  ice,  would  have  afforded  a  rich  and  easy 
harvest  to  a  fishing  ship.  Several  seals  were  also 
seen,  and  they  were  in  hopes  of  finding  some  sil- 
locks  near  the  shore,  but  had  no  success  with  the 
seine,  which  was  twice  hauled  upon  the  beach. 
They  met  with  the  remains  of  s.everal  Esquimaux 
habitations  in  different  places  along  the  shore,  and 
in  one  spot  a  conspicuous  mark  had  been  left  by 
these  people,  consisting  of  several  stones  placed 
one  over  the  other.  The  beach  being  favorable 
for  measuring  a  base,  they  ran  oflf  one  above  a  mile 
in  length,  and  obtained  the  necessary  angles  for  the 
survey,  together  with  the  usual  observations  for  fix- 
ing their  geographical  position. 

As  soon  as  the  weather  cleared  up,  they  returned 
on  board,  and  sailed  to  the  northeast,  where  alone 
they  had  any  chance  of  finding  an  outlet.     Having 


POLAR    REGIONS.  267 

ascertained  the  continuity  of  land  round  this  inlet, 
they  gaye  it  the  name  of  Duke  of  York's  Bay.  It 
was  now  certain  that  the  object  of  the  expedition 
could  not  be  effected  in  that  direction ;  and  they 
therefore  sailed  back,  through  the  narrow  channel 
by  which  they  had  entered,  with  the  intention  of 
seeking  an  opening  farther  north,  without  delay. 

We  should  never  have  done,  were  we  to  tell  of 
every  ol^stacle  that  hindered  or  delayed  the  progress 
of  the  ships ;  and  will  therefore  in  future  say  as  little 
about  such  matters  as  possible.  They  pursued 
their  intended  course  along  the  shore,  when  the 
wind  and  weather  permitted:  when  unavoidably 
detained,  they  landed.  At  one  point  they  found 
the  remains  of  no  less  than  sixty  Esquimaux  habi- 
tations, consisting  of  stones  laid  one  over  the  other  in 
very  regular  circles,  eight  or  nine  feet  in  diameter, 
besides  nearly  a  hundred  other  rude  though  certain- 
ly artificial  structures,  some  of  which  had  been  fire-- 
places, others  store-houses,  and  the  rest  tolerably 
built  walls,  four  or  five  feet  high,  placed  two  and 
two,  and  generally  eight  or  nine  feet  apart,  which 
these  people  use  for  their  canoes,  as  well  as  to  keep 
the  dogs  from  gnawing  them.  A  great  many  circles 
of  stones  were  also  seen  more  inland.  About  three 
miles  to  the  N.N.W.  of  the  landing-place,  the  peo- 
ple reported  having  seen  fifteen  others  of  the  same 
kind,  and  what  they  took  to  be  a  burying-ground, 
consisting  of  nine  or  ten  heaps  of  large  stones,  of 
three  feet  in  diameter,  and  as  many  in  height.  Un- 
der these  were  found  a  variety  of  httle  implements, 
such  as  arrow  or  spear-hijads  tipped  with  stone  or 


268  POLAR    REGIONS. 

iron,  arrows,  small  models  of  canoes  and  paddles, 
some  rough  pieces  of  bone  and  wood,  and  one  or 
two  strips  of  asbestos,  which,  as  Crantz  informs  us,  is 
used  by  the  natives  of  Greenland  for  the  wick  of 
their  lamps,  and  for  applying  hot,  in  certain  diseases, 
to  the  afflicted  part.  Under  these  articles  were 
found  smaller  stones,  placed  as  a  pavement,  six  or 
seven  feet  in  length,  which,  in  the  part  not  con- 
cealed by  the  larger  stones,  was  covered  with  earth. 
The  men  had  not  the  curiosity  or  inclination  to 
dig  any  deeper ;  but  a  human  skull  was  found  near 
the  spot.  They  also  reported  that,  several  miles 
inland  of  this,  they  observed  stones  set  up  as  marks, 
many  of  which  were  also  met  with  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  point.  Of  these  marks,  which  oc- 
cur so  abundantly  in  every  part  of  the  American 
coast  that  they  visited,  they  could  not  then  conjec- 
ture the  probable  use,  but  afterwards  learned  that 
the  Esquimaux  set  them  up  to  guide  them  in  trav- 
elling from  place  to  place,  when  a  covering  of  snow 
renders  it  difficult  to  distinguish  one  spot  from  an- 
other. They  found  among  the  stones  some  seals' 
bones,  with  the  flesh  still  upon  them,  which  seemed 
to  indicate  that  the  natives  had  occupied  this  sta- 
tion during  a  part  of  the  same  season ;  and  judging 
from  the  number  of  circles  collected  in  this  place, 
and  still  more  from  subsequent  knowledge  of  these 
people,  it  is  probable  that  not  less  than  one  hundred 
and  twenty  persons  had  taken  up  their  residence 
here  at  the  same  time. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  269 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Repulse  Bay. — Frozen  Strait. — Captain  Lyon  makes  a  Journey. — Appearance 
of  the  Coast. — Interview  with  a  Party  of  Esquimaux. 

The  land  on  the  northern  and    western  sides  of 
Repulse  Bay  does  not  exceed  six  or  seven  hundred 
feet  in  height,  while  that  on  the  south  rises,  per- 
haps, full  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.     The  shore  on  which  they  landed  is  composed 
of  gneiss  rock,  traversed  by  broad  veins  of  red  feld- 
spar running  in  almost  every  direction.     Quartz  and 
mica  also  occurred  in  separate  masses,  as  well  as 
white  Hmestone  lying  in  loose  fragments  on  the  sur- 
face.    Before  they  landed  in  the  morning,  the  snow 
which   fell   the   preceding   day    had   quite   disap- 
peared from  the  north  shore,  and  by  noon  the  land 
all  round  the  bay  had  resumed  its  dark  appearance. 
They  saw  several  reindeer  and  hares,  some  ducks, 
dovekies,  knots,  (tringa  cinerea,)   snow  buntings, 
and  a  white  owl.     An  ermine  (erminea  mustela,)  a 
few  ptarmigans  and  a  hare,  were  killed.    Mice  (mus 
hudsonius)  were  very  abundant,  particularly  among 
the  stones  of  the  Esquimaux  tents.     It  cannot  be 
said  whether  the  seals'  flesh  remaining  on  some  of 
the  bones  was  any  attraction  to  them,  but  it  is  cer- 
tain that  two  of  them  being  put  together  into  a  cage, 
the  larger  killed  the   other  and  ate  a  part  of  it. 
Several  black  whales  were  seen  in  the  bay  in  the 
course  of  the  day.     There  was  here  no  want  of 
vegetation,  which  indeed  was  in  many  parts  ex- 
23* 


#^ 


270  POLAR    REGIONS. 

tremely  luxuriant;  and  specimens  of  every  plant 
were  carefully  preserved. 

The  latitude  of  this  place  wsls  66""  30';  the  lon- 
gitude 86°  30'.  From  all  indications  the  water 
through  which  they  had  been  sailing  was  the  hith- 
erto imperfectly  known  Frozen  Strait,  and  their 
perquisitions  proved  that  the  land  round  Repulse 
Bay  is  continuous.  This  being  determined,  Capt. 
Parry  resolved  to  keep  along  the  land  to  the  north- 
ward, and  examine  every  bend  or  inlet  which  might 
appear  likely  to  afford  a  practicable  passage  to  the 
westward. 

Saihng  on  the  23d  along  the  northern  shore  of 
Frozen  Strait,  it  was  observed  that  the  land  ap- 
peared in  one  place  to  consist  of  islands  only,  be- 
hind which  no  land  was  visible.  This  part  of  the 
coast  appeared  to  Capt.  Parry  so  favorable  to  the 
accomplishment  of  his  enterprise,  that  he  resolved 
to  examine  it  more  closely.  Having  beat  up  to 
the  mouth  of  an  opening  that  seemed  practicable,  he 
found  the  greater  part  of  the  channel  filled  with  a 
body  of  ice,  rendering  examination  in  ships  or 
boats  impossible.  The  only  means,  therefore,  of 
exploring  it  were,  to  despatch  a  party  by  land. 
Capt.  Lyon  undertook  this  service,  accompanied 
by  five  perons,  furnished  with  a  tent  and  four  days' 
provision.  The  ships  were  anchored  to  await  his 
return  a  mile  from  the  shore.  The  flood  tide  came 
out  of  this  inlet,  a  circumstance  that  materially 
strengthened  their  hopes  of  success. 

Capt.  Lyon  first  landed  on  an  island,   and  then 
crossed  a  strait  to  a  steep   point.     Thence  pro- 


1^. 


/POLAR  REGIONS.  271 

Geeding  northward  to  a  high  hill,  he  found  the  strait 
continuous,  and  returned  to  the  ships.  On  this 
short  journey  he  passed  the  remains  of  a  great 
many  Esquimaux  habitations.  The  result  of  Capt. 
Lyon's  excursion  was  to  convince  all  concerned 
that  a  communication  existed  here  between  Frozen 
Strait  and  a  sea  to  the  northward  and  eastward  of 
it,  and  Capt.  Parry  determined  to  explore  it  as  far 
as  possible. 

The  rocks  upon  this  coast,  as  well  as  those  in 
the  interior,  are  composed  of  gneiss,  traversed  oc- 
casionally by  veins  of  quartz  and  feld-spar,  and  hav- 
ing intermixed  with  it  much  of  a  green  substance 
which  appeared  to  be  epidote,  and  which  they 
had  not  met  with  so  abundantly  anywhere  else.  On 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  most  especially  near 
the  beach,  were  many  loose  pieces  of  Hmestone  of  a 
white  color  and  quite  sharp-edged.  On  the  banks 
of  the  lakes  the  vegetation  was  quite  luxuriant,  giv- 
ing them,  when  viewed  from  an  eminence,  and  as- 
sisted by  bright  sunshine,  a  cheerful  and  pictur- 
esque appearance.  There  was  no  snow  upon  the 
land,  except  here  and  there  a  broad  thick  patch  in 
the  hollows,  where  it  may  probably  remain  year 
after  year  undissolved ;  but  with  the  exception  of 
these  patches,  there  was  nothing  in  the  appearance 
of  the  country  to  remind  one  of  being  near  the  polar 
circle.  Piles  of  stones  and  the  remains  of  Esqui- 
maux habitations  were  everywhere  to  be  seen,  and 
one  of  the  officers  met  with  their  marks  even  on* 
the  highest  hills  ;  but  none  appeared  of  recent  date.^^ 
The  reindeer  were  here  very  numerous.     Mr  Ross 


272  POLAR  REGIONS. 

saw  above  fifty  of  them  in  the  course  of  his  walk, 
and  several  others  were  met  with  near  the  tents. 
A  large  one  was  shot  by  one  of  the  men,  who  struck 
the  animal,  as  he  lay  on  the  ground,  a  blow  on  the 
head  with  the  butt-end  of  his  piece,  and  leaving  him 
for  dead,  ran  towards  the  tents  for  a  knife  to  bleed 
and  skin  him,  when  the  deer  very  composedly  got 
on  his  legs,  swam  across  a  lake,  and  finally  escaped 
A  small  fawn  was  the  only  one  killed.  Three 
black  whales  and  a  few  seals  were  playing  about 
near  the  beach. 

After  drifting  about  some  time  in  the  ice,  and 
more  than  once  narrowly  escaping  shipwreck,  mea- 
sures were  taken  to  survey  this  part  of  the  Frozen 
Strait;  but  little  knowledge  was  gained  by  all  their 
efforts.  On  the  1st  of  September,  the  prospect 
of  getting  northward  was  by  no  means  encour- 
aging; and  they  were,  from  time  to  time,  beset 
with  ice,  and  drifted  back.  On  the  3d,  they  found 
that  after  a  laborious  investigation,  which  had  oc- 
cupied a  whole  month,  they  had  returned  to  nearly 
the  same  spot  where  they  had  been  on  the  6th  of 
August,  near  Southampton  Island. 

They  were,  at  last,  again  enabled  to  return  to  the 
coast  north  of  Southampton  island,  and  finding  it 
impracticable  to  continue  the  survey  in  the  ships, 
Capt.  Parry  departed  in  a  boat  to  learn  as  much  as 
possible  of  the  adjacent  regions.  An  account  of 
his  progress  would  be  a  mere  hst  of  the  names  of 
•bays,  capes,  and  points  of  land  ;  but  on  this  expedi- 
tion he  met  with  a  party  of  Esquimaux.  The  de- 
scription of  these  people  will  be  best  given  in  his  own 
words. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  273 

'  Having  passed  several  islands  on  our  left,  we 
kept  close  along  the  northern  shore,  which  here 
began  to  trend  considerably  to  the  southward  of 
west.  In  running  along  the  coast  with  a  fresh  and 
favorable  breeze,  we  observed  three  persons  stand- 
ing on  a  hill,  and,  as  we  continued  our  course,  they 
followed  us  at  full  speed  along  the  rocks.  Having 
sailed  into  a  small  sheltered  bay,  I  went  up,  accom- 
panied by  Mr  Bushnan,  to  meet  them  on  the  hills 
above  us.  In  sailing  along  the  shore  we  had  heard 
them  call  out  loudly  to  us,  and  observed  them  fre- 
quently hft  something  which-  they  held  in  their 
hands ;  but  on  coming  up  to  them,  they  remained  so 
perf^tly  mute  and  motionless,  that,  accustomed  as 
we  had  been  to  the  noisy  importunities  of  their 
more  sophisticated  brethren,  we  could  scarcely 
believe  them  to  be  Esquimaux.  There  was  besides 
a  degree  of  lankness  in  the  faces  of  the  two  men, 
the  very  reverse  of  the  plump,  round,  oily  cheeks  of 
those  we  had  before  seen.  Their  countenances  at 
the  time  impressed  me  with  the  idea  of  Indian 
rather  than  of  Esquimaux  features  ;  but  this  variety 
of  physiognomy  we  afterwards  found  not  to  be  un- 
common among  these  people.  The  men  appeared 
about  forty  and  twentytwo  yeai's  of  age,  and  were 
accompanied  by  a  good-looking  and  good-humored 
boy  of  nine  or  ten.  They  each  held  in  their  hand 
a  seal  skin  case  ot  quiver,  containing  a  bow  and 
three  or  four  arrows,  with  a  set  of  which  they  wil- 
lingly parted,  on  being  presented  with  a  knife  in  ex- 
change. The  first  looks  with  which  they  received 
us  betrayed  a  mixture  of  stupidity  and  apprehen- 


M^< 


274  POLAR    REGIONS. 

sion,  but  both  wore  off  in  a  few  minutes,  on  our 
making  them  unders|and  that  we  wished  to  go  to 
their  habitations.  With  this  request  they  compUed 
without  hesitation,  tripping  along  before  us  for  above 
two  miles  over  very  rough  ground,  and  crossing  one 
or  two  considerable  streams  running  from  a  lake  into 
the  sea.  This  they  performed  with  so  much  quick- 
ness that  we  could  with  difficulty  keep  up  with 
them,  though  they  good-naturedly  stopped  now 
and  then  tSl  we  overtook  them.  We  were  met  on 
our  way  by  two  women,  from  twenty  to  twentyfive 
years  of  age,  having  isach  a  child  at  her  back ;  they 
too  accompanied  us  to  their  tent,  which  was  situated 
on  a  high  part  of  the  coast  o^'erlooking  the  s^  It 
consisted  of  a  rufle  circular  wall  of  loose  stones, 
from  six  to  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  three  in 
height,  in  the  centre  of  which  stood  an  upright  pole 
made  of  several  pieces  of  fir-wood  lashed  together 
by  thongg,  and  serving  as  a  support  to  the  deer- 
gkins  that  formed  the  top  covering.  Soon  after 
our  arrival  we  were  joined  by  a  good-looking  modest 
girl  of  about  eight,  and  a  boy  of  five  years  old.  Of 
these  nine  persons,  which  were  all  we  now  saw, 
only  the  elder  man  and  two  of  the  children  be- 
longed to  this  tent,  the  habitations  of  the  others 
being  a  Uttle  more  inland.  The  faces  of  the  women 
were  round,  plump,  tattooed,  and  in  short  complete- 
ly Esquimaux.  During  the  cursory  examination  of 
these  people's  dresses,  which  we  had  now  an  op- 
portunity of  making,  I  observed  nothing  beyond 
the  peculiarities  which  have  been  repeatedly  de- 
scribed, except  that  the  tails  of  the  women's  jackets 


^^> 


POLAR    REGIONS.  275 

were  of  unusual  length  as  well  as  breadth.  The 
kayak  or  canoe  belonging  to  this  establishment  was 
carefully  laid  on  the  rocks  close  to  the  seaside,  with 
the  paddle  and  the  man's  mittens  in  readiness  be- 
side it.  The  timbers  were  entirely  of  wood,  and 
covered  as  usual  with  seal-skin.  Its  length  was 
nineteen  feet  seven  inches,  and  its  extreme  breadth 
two  feet ;  it  was  raised  a  little  at  each  end,  and  the 
rim  or  gunwale  of  the  circular  hole  in  the  middle 
was  high,  and  made  of  whalebone.  A  %andsome 
seal-skin  was  smoothly  laid  within  as  a  seat,  and 
the  whole  was  sew^n  and  put  together  wath  great 
neatness.  The  paddle  was  double,  made  of  fir, 
and  jj^  ends  of  the  olades  tipped  with  bone,  to 
prevent' sphtting. 

*  The  fire-place  in  the  tent  consisted  of  three 
rough  stones  carelessly  placed  on  end  against  one 
side,  and  they  had  several  pots  of  lapis  ollar^,  for 
culinary  purposes.  These  people  seemed  to  us 
altogether  more  cleanly  than  any  Esquimaux  we  had 
before  seen,  both  in  their  persons  and  in  the  inte- 
rior of  their  tent,  in  neither  of  whidti  could  we  dis- 
cover much  of  that  rancid  and  pungent  smell,  which 
is  in  general  so  offensive  to  Europeans.  One  in- 
stance of  their  cleanliness  which  now  occured, 
deserves  perhaps  to  be  noticed,  both  because  this  is 
justly  considered  rather  a  rare  quality  among  Esqui- 
maux, as  well  as  to  show  in  what  way  they  do 
sometimes  exercise  it.  When  leaving  the  tent,  to 
return  to  our  boats,  I  desired  one  of  the  seamen 
to  tie  the  articles  we  had  purchased  into  a  single 
bundle,  for  the  convenience  of  carrying  them :  but 


276  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  elder  of  the  two  male  Esquimaux,  who  watched 
the  man  thus  employed,  would  not  permit  it  to  be 
done  without  excluding  a  pot,  which,  as  he  ex- 
plained by  wiping  the  lamp-black  off  with  one  of 
his  fingers,  would  soil  a  clean  seal-skin  jacket  that 
formed  part  of  the  bundle. 

'  Among  the  few  domestic  utensils  we  saw  in  the 
tent  was  the  woman's  knife  of  the  Greenlanders 
described  by  Crantz,  and  resembling,  in  its  semi- 
circular §ji5pe,  that  used  by  shoe-makers  in  Eng- 
land. The  most  interesting  article,  however,  was 
a  kind  of  bowl  exactly  similar  to  that  obtained  by 
Captain  Jl<yon  from  the  natives  of  Hudson's  Strait, 
being  hollowedgiy^t  of  the  j%ot  of  musk-ox'#Jiorn. 
As  soon  as  I  toolc  tjie  cup  in  my  hand,  the  boy*  who 
was  our  first  companion,  and  had  Since  been  our 
constant  attendant,  pronounced  the  word  oomingmuk, 
thus  ^affording  an  additional  confirmation  to  that 
obtained  on  the  former  voyage,  of  the  musk-ox  be- 
ing the  animal  described  by  the  natives  of  the  west 
coast  of  Greenland,  as  having  occasionally,  though 
rargly,  been  sedli  in  that  country. 

^As  soon  as  the  Esquimaux  became  a  little  more 
familiar  with  us,  they  repeatedly  asked  for  sowik 
(iron),  in  answer  to  which  we  gave  them  to  under- 
stand that  they  must  accompany  us  to  our  boats,  if 
they  wished  to  obtain  any  of  this  precious  article. 
Accordingly,  the  whole  group  set  off  with  us  on 
our  return,  the  males  keeping  up  with  us,  and  the 
women  a  short  distance  behind.  The  whole  of  the 
children  carried  bundles  of  the  branches  of  ground 
willow,  which  we  had  just  before  seen  them  bring 


j 


POLAR   REGIONS.  277 

in  for  their  own  use,  and  which  they  seemed  to 
consider  an  article  of  barter  that  might  be  accepta- 
ble to  us.  As  we  returned,  I  noticed  a  quantity  of 
the  ledum  pahistre,  and  having  plucked  some  of  it, 
gave  it  to  the  boy  to  carry ;  after  which,  though  he 
very  much  dishked  its  smell,  he  gathered  every  root 
of  it  that  we  came  to,  and  deposited  it  at  our  tents- 
This  lad  was  uncommonly  quick  and  clever  in  com- 
prehending our  meaning,  and  seemed  to  possess  a 
degree  of  good-humor  and  docility,  which,  on  our 
short  acquaintance,  made  him  a  gr^t  favorite  among 
us. 

'  We  had  hitherto  been  much  pleased  with  our 
new  aci^iaintance,  who  were  certainly  a  good- 
humored,  decent  soji  of  people.  We  therefore 
loade'cl  them  #7ith  presentsf^  and  erideavoured  to 
amuse  them  by  showing  them  the  mamier  of  rowing 
our  boats,  which  were  hauled  up  on  the  beach. 
While  the  men  and  children  were  occupied  in  ob- 
serving this,*  the  W^en  were  no  less  busily  em- 
ployed^  ne*^  the  tents,  in  pirfiiring  and  conveying 
into  their  boots,  some  of  our  cups,  spoons,  and  oth- 
er small  articles,  such  as  they  cfeuld  conveniently 
secrete.  This  they  accomplished  with  so  much 
dexterity,  that  no  suspicion  would  have  been  ex- 
cited of  their  dishonesty,  had  not  Mr  Sherer  fortu- 
nately missed  a  cup  which  w-as  required  for  supper. 
A  general  search  being  instituted  in  consequence, 
and  the  cargo  of  the  women's  boots  brought  back 
to  our  tents,  I  directed  all  our  presents  to  be  Hke- 
wise  taken  from  the  two  offenders ;  and,  dismissing 
the  whole  party  with  great  appearance  of  indigna- 
24 


278  POLAR    REGIONS. 

tion,  thus  put  an  end  for  the  present  to  our  commu- 
nication with  these  people.' 

After  surveying  a  considerable  extent  of  coast, 
the  captain  returned  to  the  ships,  which  he  found 
completely  beset.  They  were  extricated,  however, 
and  continued  to  explore  the  northern  shores  of 
Frozen  Strait,  sometimes  beset  and  sometimes  in 
motion.  The  appearance  of  the  land  was  as  hither- 
to described  ;  the  soil,  the  vegetable  productions, 
and  the  animal  kingdom  were  the  same.  There  is 
so  little  variety  in  this  part  of  the  voyage,  that  it 
would  be  tiresome  to  repeat  the  details. 


.♦ 


CHAPTER   V. 


^ 


Ice  begin^J|fciake. — The  Ships  get  into  Winter  Quarters. — Shrimps. — Foxes. 
^i^A.  Theatre  opened. — Northern  Lights. — Esquimaux.    ' 

On  the  1st  of  October,  rain  fell,  whibh  immedi- 
ately freezing,  made  the  decks  and  ropes  as  smooth 
as  glass.  For  several  days  the  thermometer  had 
been  below  the  freezing  point,  and  sometimes  as 
low  as  — 20"*  at  night,  which  change,  together  with 
the  altered  aspect  of  the  land,  and  the  rapid  forma- 
tion of  young  ice  near  the  shores,  gave  notice  of 
the  approach  of  winter.  The  commencement  of 
this  dreary  season  in  these  regions  may,  indeed,  be 
dated  from  the  time  when  the  earth  no  longer  re- 
ceives and  radiates  heat  enough  to  melt  the  snow 
which  falls  upon  it. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  279 

On  the  8th,  the  young  ice  on  the  surface  began 
to  give  them  warning  that  the  navigation  of  those 
seas  was  nearly  ended  for  the  season.  When  the 
young  ice  has  acquired  the  thickness  of  half  an 
inch,  and  is  of  considerable  extent,  a  ship  must  be 
stopped  by  it,  unless  favored  by  a  strong  and  fair 
wind ;  and  even  when  making  progress,  is  not  under 
control  of  the  helmsman,  depending  mostly  on  the 
thickness  of  the  ice  on  one  bow  or  the  other. 
Boats  cannot  be  employed  in  such  situations  with 
much  effect. 

When  to  these  difficulties  were  added  the  dis- 
advantage of  a  temperature  near  zero,  and  twelve 
hours  of  daily  darkness,  Capt.  Parry  becaijie  con- 
vinced that  it  was  expedient  to  place  the  ships  in 
the  most  secure  situation  that  could  be  found, 
rather  than  run  the  risk  of  being  permanently  de- 
tatched  from  the  land  by  attempting  to  gain  the 
continent.  Accordingly,  a  canal  was  saw%d  into  a 
harbour  on  thesouth  side  of  a  small  island,  to  which 
the  name  of  Winter  Island  was  given,  and  the  ships 
were  warped  to  their  winter  stations.  Thus  ended 
their  operations  for  the  season,  after  having  explored 
a  portion  of  coast  six  hundred  miles  in  extent,  one 
half  of  which  belonged  to  the  continent  of  America. 

The  arrangements  for  passing  the  winter  com- 
fortably were  pretty  much  the  same  as  those  which 
had  been  made  at  Melville  Island,  with  some  im- 
provements, suggested  by  former  experience.  The 
theatre  was  better  fitted  than  before,  and  a  school 
was  established  for  the  benefit  of  such  of  the  crews 
as  might  wish  to  learn  to  read  and  write.      The 


280  POLAR  REGIONS. 

lower  deck  of  the  Fury  was  fitted  for  a  church,  and 
the  companies  of  both  ships  attended  during  the 
winter.  The  men  were  sent  to  walk  on  shore  for 
exercise,  whenever  the  weather  was  favorable ;  and 
finger-posts  were  erected  in  various  parts  of  the 
island,  to  prevent  them  from  losing  their  way. 

Before  the  ice  had  entirely  shut  up  the  sea,  great 
numbers  of  small  shrimps  {cancer  nugax)  were  ob- 
served near  the  surface.  When  any  meat  was  put 
overboard  to  thaw  or  soak,  these  insects  fastened 
upon  it  with  great  avidity.  A  goose,  left  fortyeight 
hours  in  this  situation,  was  dissected  as  neatly  and 
thoroughly  as  the  most  experienced  surgeon  could 
have  done  it,  nothing  remaining  but  the  bare  bones. 
Our  navigators  took  advantage  of  the  hunger  of 
these  depredators  to  procure  skel||ons  of  'small 
animals  for  anatomical  specimens,  by  enclosing  them 
in  a  net  through  which  the  shrimps  could  have  access, 
but  which  prevented  ,the  loss  of  any  of  the  bones 
when  the  cartilage  was  eaten. 

Many  white  foxes  were  caught,  in  traps  some- 
thing like  those  called  box-traps.  It  was  remarked 
that  when  a  southerly  wind  had  blown  the  scent  of 
the  ships  over  the  island,  more  were  caught  than  at 
any  other  time.  So  numerous  were  they,  that  no 
less  than  fifteen  were  caught  in  a  single  trap  in  the 
space  of  four  hours ;  one  was  no  sooner  taken  out 
than  another  entered.  Indeed  they  were  so  stupid, 
that,  in  several  instances,  those  that  escaped  from 
the  traps  re-entered,  and  were  captured  as  they 
had  been  before. 

The  harbour  in  which  the  ships  were  moored  was 


POLAR    REGIONS.  281 

but  an  open  roadstead,  and  they  had  some  reason 
to  fear  that  if  the  ice  should  get  in  motion  during 
the  winter,  they  might  be  forced  on  shore,  or  driven 
oiit  to  sea.  On  the  11th  of  November,  it  being  the 
time  of  spring  tides,  a  large  crack  was  observed  in 
the  ice  near  the  ships,  w^hich  was  found  to  extend 
a  considerable  distance  outside  them,  rendering  it 
probable  that  a  complete  separation  might  take 
place.  Cables  were,  run  out,  and  every  precaution 
was  taken  to  prevent  such  an  occurrence,  and  for- 
tunately nothing  occurred  to  cause  farther  apprehen- 
sion. 

On  the  11th  of  December,  the  weather  being 
tolerably  clear,  stars  of  the  third  magnitude  were 
visible  to  the  naked  eye  at  forty  minutes  past  eight, 
and  those  of  the  second  magnitude  till  a  quarter 
past  nine,  which  may  give  somd  idea  of  the  degree 
of  light  at  this  period.  The  twilight  was,  of  course, 
very  long,  and  the  redness  of  the  sun's  rays  might 
be  seen  more  than  three  hours  after  his  setting. 

On  the  13th,  the  thermometer  fell  to  — 31°,  being 
the  lowest  temperature  yet  experienced.  Rising 
on  the  17th  to  — 5%  the  play  of  The  Poor  Gentle- 
man was  performed.  On  Christmas  eve  the  theatre 
was  again  put  in  requisition,  and  the  next  day  was 
celebrated  to  the  utmost  extent  their  means  would 
allow.  Among  the  luxuries  of  the  Christmas  din- 
ner were  a  few  joints  of  Enghsh  roast  beef,  which 
had  been  preserved  expressly  for  the  occasion,  the 
first  and  last  ever  eaten  in  Frozen  Strait. 

During  the  whole  of  this  month,  the  displays  of 
the  Aurora  Borealis  were  more  frequent  and  splen- 
24* 


282  POLAR    REGIONS. 

did  than  they  had  before  noticed,  but  we  can- 
not by  description  convey  any  adequate  idea  of 
them.  The  health  of  the  ships'  companies  was  re- 
markably good,  only  one  name  being  found  on  the 
sick  list,  and  not  the  slightest  symptom  of  scurvy 
had  yet  appeared.  To  increase  the  allowance 
of  antiscorbutics,  they  adopted  a  regular  system 
of  raising  mustard  and  cress,  which  the  warmth  of 
the  ships  enabled  them  to  do  on  a  larger  scale  than 
at  Melville  Island.  A  crop  was  produced  once  in 
ten  days,  and  before  the  arrival  of  spring  nearly  an 
hundred  pounds  had  been  procured  on  board  each 
vessel.  When  it  is  considered  how  complete  a 
specific  for  the  scurvy  fresh  vegetable  substance  is, 
this  circumstance  will  not  be  thought  unimportant. 

The  same  occupations,  that  had  employed  them 
at  Melville  Island  served  to  beguile  the  time  this 
winter.  Nothing  material  occurred  till  the  first  of 
February,  unless  the  circumstance  of  seeing  a  white 
bear  may  be  accounted  so. 

On  the  1st  of  February,  a  number  of  Esquimaux 
were  seen  coming  toward  the  ships  over  the  ice, 
and  the  appearance  of  huts  was  discovered  on  the 
shore  with  a  telescope.  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon, 
with  three  or  four  others,  set  out  to  meet  the  natives 
who  were  slowly  advancing,  to  the  number  of  twen- 
tyfive.  As  the  officers  advanced,  they  stood  still, 
awaiting  their  approach.  They  had  no  arms,  but 
carried  only  a  few  strips  of  whalebone,  which  they 
had  brought  for  a  peace-offering,  and  which  the  gen- 
tlemen immediately  purchased  for  a  few  small  nails 
and  beads.     There  were  several  women  and  chil- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  283 

dren  with  the  party,  and  the  behaviour  of  all  was 
quite  peaceable  and  orderly.  They  were  all  hand- 
somely dressed  in  deerskins,  and  some  had  double 
suits. 

However  quiet  these  savages  were,  they  did  not 
exhibit  the  slightest  signs  of  apprehension  or  dis- 
trust. As  soon  as  some  understanding  was  estab- 
lished, the  officers  expressed  a  wish  to  visit  their 
huts,  and  the  Esquimaux  readily  complying,  they  all 
set  out  together.  The  savages  were  greatly  astonish- 
ed on  the  way  to  see  a  large  dog,  belonging  to  the 
whites,  fetch  and  carry ;  and  the  children  could 
scarcely  contain  their  joy  when  Capt.  Lyon  gave 
them  a  stick  to  throw,  and  the  dog  brought  it  back 
to  them.  An  infirm  old  man,  who  supported  him- 
self with  a  staff,  which  he  much  needed,  w^as  left 
behind  by  his  companions,  who  took  no  notice  of 
his  infirmities,  but  left  him  to  find  his  way  as  he 
might,  without  reluctance  or  scruple. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  these  habitations 
were  fully  within  sight  of  the  ships,  and  how  many 
were  continually  on  the  look-out  for  anything  that 
could  afford  variety  or  interest,  their  surprise  may 
in  some  degree  be  imagined  at  finding  an  establish- 
ment of  five  huts,  with  canoes,  sledges,  dogs,  and 
above  sixty  men,  women,  and  children,  as  regularly 
and,  to  all  appearance,  as  permanently  fixed,  as  if 
they  had  occupied  the  same  spot  for  the  whole 
winter.  If  the  first  view  of  the  exterior  of  this  little 
village  was  such  as  to  create  astonishment,  that 
feeling  was  in  no  small  degree  heightened,  on  ac- 
cepting the  invitation  soon  given,  to  enter  these 


284  POLAR    REGIONS. 

extraordinary  houses,  in  the  construction  of  which 
no  material  was  used  but  snow  and  ice.  After 
creeping  through  two  low  passages,  having  each  its 
arched  door-way,  they  came  to  a  small  circular 
apartment,  of  which  the  roof  was  a  perfect  arched 
dome.  From  this  three  door-ways,  also  arched 
and  of  larger  dimensions  than  the  outer  ones,  led 
into  as  many  inhabited  apartments,  one  on  each 
side,  and  the  other  facing  them  as  they  entered. 
The  interior  of  these  presented  a  scene  no  less 
novel  than  interesting.  The  women  were  seated 
on  the  beds  at  the  sides  of  the  huts,  each  having 
her  httle  fire-place  or  lamp,  with  all  her  domestic 
utensils  about  her ;  the  children  crept  behind  their 
mothers,  and  the  dogs,  (except  the  female  ones, 
which  were  indulged  with  a  part  of  the  beds,)  slunk 
out  in  dismay.  The  construction  of  this  inhabited 
part  of  the  huts  was  similar  to  that  of  the  outer 
apartment,  being  a  dome  formed  by  separate  blocks 
of  snow,  laid  with  great  regularity  and  no  small  art, 
each  being  cut  into  the  shape  requisite  to  form  a 
substantial  arch,  from  seven  to  eight  feet  high  in 
the  centre,  and  having  no  support  whatever  but 
what  this  principle  of  building  supplied.  We  shall 
not  here  further  describe  the  pecuharities  of  these 
curious  edifices,  remarking  only  that  a  cheerful  and 
sufficient  light  was  admitted  to  them  by  a  circular 
window  of  ice  neatly  fitted  into  the  roof  of  each 
apartment. 

They  found  our  new  acquaintance  as  desirous  of 
pleasing  them,  as  they  were  ready  to  be  pleased ; 
so  that  they  were  soon  on  good  terms  with  them 


POLAR    REGIONS.  285 

all.  While  the  visitors  were  engaged  in  examining 
every  part  of  their  huts,  their  whole  behaviour  was 
in  the  highest  degree  orderly,  respectful  and  good- 
humored.  They  eagerly  received  the  various  ar- 
ticles that  were  given  them,  either  in  exchange  for 
their  own  commodities,  or  as  presents,  but  on  no 
occasion  importuned  for  anything,  nor  did  the  well- 
known  sound  of  '  pilletay '  once  escape  from  them. 
There  was  also  great  reason  to  believe  that  these 
people  possessed,  in  no  ordinary  degree,  the  quality 
of  honesty.  If  the  whites  dropped  a  glove  or  a 
handkerchief  without  knowing  it,  they  would  im- 
mediately direct  their  attention  to  it  by  pointing ; 
and  if  the  owner  had  left  the  hut  before  they  dis- 
covered it,  would  run  out  after  him  to  return  it. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Esquimaux  visit  the  Ships. — Wolves. — More  Particulars  relating  to  the 
Esquimaux. — Manner  of  constructing  Snow  Huts. 

After  remaining  with  the  Esquimaux  a  couple  of 
hours,  and  proposing  to  spend  the  following  day 
amongst  them,  the  officers  set  out  on  their  return  to 
the  ships.  Being  desirous  of  trying  their  disposition 
to  part  with  their  children,  Capt.  Parry  proposed  to 
buy  a  fine  lad,  named  Toolooak,  for  the  very  valuable 
consideration  of  a  handsome  butcher's  knife.  His 
father,  apparently  understanding  the  Captain's  mean- 
ing, joyfully  accepted  the  knife,  and  the  boy  ran  into 


286  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  hut  to  fetch  his  mittens,  which  seemed  to  be  all 
that  he  cared  for  in  leaving  his  home.  He  then  set 
off  with  the  Captain,  in  high  spirits,  and  at  first  assist- 
ed in  drawing  the  sledge  they  had  purchased  to  carry 
their  things ;  but  as  he  began,  by  their  additional 
signs,  more  clearly  to  comprehend  their  true  mean- 
ing, he  gradually  relaxed  in  his  zeal  to  accompany 
the  party ;  and  being  afterwards  overtaken  by  a 
number  of  his  companions,  he  took  an  opportunity 
to  slink  off  among  some  hummocks  of  ice,  so  that 
when  they  arrived  on  board,  Toolooak  was  missing. 

On*  reaching  the  ships,  these  people  expressed 
much  less  surprise  and  curiosity  than  might  natural- 
ly have  been  expected  on  their  first  visit,  which 
may,  perhaps,  in  some  measure,  be  attributed  to 
their  being  in  reahty  aless  noisy  kind  of  people  than 
most  of  the  Esquimaux  to  whom  the  whites  had 
before  been  accustomed.  Quiet  and  orderly,  how- 
ever, as  they  were  disposed  to  be,  this  first  visit 
showed  them  to  be  as  fond  of  merriment  as  their 
countrymen  are  usually  considered;  for,  on  Capt. 
Lyon's  ordering  his  fiddler  up  on  the  Hecla's  deck, 
they  danced  with  the  men  for  an  hour,  and  then 
returned  in  high  glee  and  good  humor  to  their 
huts. 

During  their  absence  in  the  morning,  a  flock  of 
thirteen  wolves,  the  first  yet  seen,  crossed  the  ice 
in  the  bay  from  the  direction  of  the  huts,  and 
passed  near  the  ships.  These  anim.als  had  accom- 
panied or  closely  followed  the  Esquimaux  on  their 
journey  to  the  island  the  preceding  day ;  and  they 
proved  the  most  troublesome  part  of  their  suite. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  287 

They  so  much  resemble  the  Esquimaux  dogs, 'that, 
had  it  not  been  for  some  doubt  among  the  officers 
who  had  seen  them,  whether  they  were  so  or  not, 
and  the  consequent  fear  of  doing  these  poor  people 
an  irreparable  injury,  they  might  have  killed  most 
of  them  the  same  evening,  for  they  came  boldly  to 
look  for  food  within  a  few  yards  of  the  Fury,  and 
remained  there  for  some  time. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  2d,  Capt.  Parry  set  out 
with  a  large  party  on  an  excursion  to  the  huts. 
The  natives  received  them  with  great  cordiality, 
though  with  somewhat  more  noisy  expressions  of 
pleasure  than  before ;  and  they  soon  began  a  more 
minute  examination  of  their  habitations  and  furni- 
ture, in  which  they  readily  assisted,  except  that 
they  always  sat  very  closely  on  the  deer-skins  which 
composed  their  beds,   under  which  were  stowed 
such  articles  as  they  were  least  willing  or  able  to 
dispose  of.     They  sold,  however,  a  great  number 
of  their  things  without  reluctance ;  and  it  was  in- 
deed astonishing  to  see  with  what  eagerness  they 
would,  for  the  mere  sake  of  change   and  variety, 
barter  some  of  their  most  indispensable  articles  for 
the  veriest  trifles.     For  instance,  a  single  sewing 
needle,  of  which  they  possessed  abundance  not 
much   inferior   to    those    of  the   whites,   procured 
from  them  a  large  well-sharpened  panna,  or  man's 
knife,  made  of  stout  iron,  for  which,  in  point  of  ab- 
solute utility,  a  hundred  needles  would  not  have 
been  a  fair  equivalent.     Various  other  instances  of 
the  same  kind  occurred,  by  which,  indeed,  they  were 
not  ultimately  losers,  though  they  certainly  would 
have  been  so,  had  the  intercourse  ended  here. 


288  POLAR   REGIONS. 

_-  • 

The  party  dined  in  the  huts,  and  the  Esquimaux 

gladly  partook  of  their  biscuit  and  meat,  and  even 
of  a  little  wine,  which  however  they  did  not  rehsh. 
The  Captain  returned  on  board  about  sunset,  much 
gratified  with  the  interesting  day  he  had  passed ; 
having  laid  the  foundation  of  that  perfect  confidence 
and  good  understanding  which,  with  little  or  no  in- 
terruption, afterwards  subsisted  between  the  ships' 
companies  and  their  new  acquaintance. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d,  a  number  of  the  Es- 
quimaux were  seen  going  over  the  ice,  seal  hunting, 
and  they  returned  with  four  seals.  It  was  found 
that  even  at  this  rigorous  season  they  were  depend- 
ent on  their  daily  exertions.  On  the  4th,  some  of 
them  came  to  the  ships,  and  were  persuaded  to 
build  a  snow  hut,  for  the  amusement  and  informa- 
tion of  the  ofi^icers.  The  way  these  edifices  are 
constructed  is  as  follows.  The  work  is  commenced 
by  cutting  from  a  drift  of  hard  and  compact  snow  a 
number  of  oblong  slabs,  six  or  seven  inches  thick 
and  about  two  feet  in  length,  and  laying  them  edge- 
ways on  a  level  spot,  also  covered  with  snow,  in  a 
circular  form  and  of  a  diameter  from  eight  to  fifteen 
feet,  proportioned  to  the  number  of  occupants  the 
hut  is  to  contain.  Upon  this  foundation  is  laid 
a  second  tier  of  the  same  kind,  but  with  the  pieces 
inclining  a  little  inwards,  and  made  to  fit  closely  to 
the  lower  slabs  and  to  each  other,  by  running  a 
knife  adroitly  along  the  under  part  and  sides.  The 
top  of  this  tier  is  now  prepared  for  the  reception 
of  a  third,  by  squaring  it  off  smoothly  with  a 
knife,  all  which  is  dexterously  performed  by  one 


POLAR    REGIONS.  289 

man  standing  within  the  circle  and  receiving  the 
blocks  of  snow  from  those  employed   in  cutting 
them  without.     When  the  wall  has  attained  a  height 
of  four  or  five  feet,  it  leans  so  much  inward  as  to 
appear  as  if  about  to  tumble  every  moment,  but 
the  workmen   still   fearlessly   lay   their  blocks   of 
snow   upon  it,   until  it  is  too  high  any  longer   to 
furnish  the  materials  to  the  builder  in  this  man- 
ner.    Of  this  he  gives  notice  by  cutting  a  hole  close 
to  the  ground  in  that  part  where  the  door  is  in- 
tended to  be,  which  is  near  the  south  side,  and 
through  this  the  snow  is  now  passed.     Thus  they 
continue  till  they  have  brought  the  sides  nearly  to 
meet  in  a  perfect  and  well-constructed  dome,  some- 
times nine  or  ten  feet  high  in  the  centre ;  and  this 
they  take  considerable  care  in  finishing,  by  fitting 
the  last  block  or  key-stone  very  nicely  in  the  centre, 
dropping  it  into  its  place  from  the  outside,  though  it 
is  still  done  by  the  man  within.     The  people  out- 
side are  in  the  meantime  occupied  in  throwing  up 
snow  with  the  pooalleray,  or  snow-shovel,  and  in 
stuffing  in  little  wedges  of  snow  where  holes  have 
been  accidentally  left. 

The  builder  next  proceeds  to  let  himself  out  by 
enlarging  the  proposed  door-way  into  the  form  of 
a  Gothic  arch  three  feet  high,  and  two  feet  and  a 
half  wide  at  the  bottom,  communicating  with  which 
they  construct  two  passages,  each  from  ten  to  twelve 
feet  long  and  from  four  to  five  feet  in  height,  the 
lowest  being  that  next  the  hut.  The  roofs  of  these 
passages  are  sometimes  arched,  but  more  generally 
made  flat  by  slabs  laid  on  horizontally.  In  first 
25 


290  POLAR    REGIONS. 

digging  the  snow  for  building  the  hut,  they  take  it 
principally  from  the  part  where  the  passages  are  to 
be  made,  which  purposely  brings  the  floor  of  the 
latter  considerably  lower  than  that  of  the  hut,  but 
in  no  part  do  they  dig  till  the  bare  ground  appears. 

The  work  just  described  completes  the  walls  of 
a  hut,  if  a  single  apartment  only  be  required ;  but 
if,  on  account  of  relationship,  or  from  any  other 
cause,  several  families  are  to  reside  under  one  roof, 
the  passages  are  made  common  to  all,  and  the  first 
apartment  (in  that  case  made  smaller)  forms  a  kind 
of  anti-chamber,  from  which  you  go  through  an 
arched  door-way,  five  feet  high,  into  the  inhabited 
apartments.  When  there  are  three  of  these,  which 
is  generally  the  case,  the  whole  building,  with  its 
adjacent  passages,  forms  a  tolerably  regular  cross. 

For  the  admission  of  light  into  the  huts,  a  round 
hole  is  cut  on  one  side  of  the  roof  of  each  apart- 
ment, and  a  circular  plate  of  ice,  three  or  four 
inches  thick  and  two  feet  in  diameter,  let  into  it. 
The  light  is  soft  and  pleasant,  like  that  transmitted 
through  ground  glass,  and  is  quite  sufficient  for 
every  purpose.  When  after  some  time  these  edifi- 
ces become  surrounded  by  drift,  it  is  only  by  the 
windows,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  that  they 
could  be  recognised  as  human  habitations.  It  may 
perhaps  then  be  imagined  how  singular  is  their  ex- 
ternal appearance  at  night,  when  they  discover 
themselves  only  by  a  circular  -disk  of  hght  trans- 
mitted through  the  windows  from  the  lamps  within. 

The  next  thing  to  be  done  is  to  raise  a  bank  of 
snow  two  and  a  half  feet  high,  all  round  the  interior 


POLAR   REGIONS.  291 

of  each  apartment,  except  on  the  side  next  the 
door.  This  bank,  which  is  neatly  squared  off, 
forms  their  beds  and  fire-place,  the  former  occupy- 
ing the  sides  and  the  latter  the  end  opposite  the 
door.  The  passage  left  open  up  to  the  fire-place 
is  between  three  and  four  feet  wide.  The  beds 
are  arranged  by  first  covering  the  snow  with  a 
quantity  of  small  stones,  over  which  are  laid  their 
paddles,  tent-poles,  and  some  blades  of  whalebone  : 
above  these  they  place  a  number  of  httle  pieces  of 
net-work,  made  of  thin  slips  of  whalebone,  and  last- 
ly a  quantity  of  twigs  of  birch  and  of  the  andromeda 
tetragona.  Their  deer-skins,  which  are  very  nu- 
merous, can  now  be  spread  without  risk  of  their 
touching  the  snow  ;  and.  such  a  bed  is  capable  of 
affording  not  merely  a  comfort,  but  luxurious  re- 
pose, in  spite  of  the  rigor  of  the  climate.  The 
skins  thus  used  as  blankets  are  made  of  a  large 
size,  and  bordered,  like  some  of  the  jackets,  with  a 
fringe  of  long  narrow  slips  of  leather,  in  which  state 
a  blanket  is  called  keipik. 

The  fire  belonging  to  each  family  consists  of  a 
single  lamp,  or  shallow  vessel  of  lapis  ollaris,  its 
form  being  the  lesser  segment  of  a  circle.  The 
wick,  composed  of  dry  moss  rubbed  between  the 
hands  till  it  is  quite  inflammable,  is  disposed  along 
the  edge  of  the  lamp  on  the  straight  side,  and  a  great- 
er or  smaller  quantity  lighted  according  to  the  heat 
required  or  the  fuel  that  can  be  afforded.  When 
,  the  whole  length  of  this,  which  is  sometimes  above 
w  eighteen  inches,  is  kindled,  it  affords  a  most  bril- 
liant and  beautiful  light   without  any  perceptible 


292  POLAR    REGIONS. 

smoke  or  any  offensive  smell.  The  lamp  is  made 
to  supply  itself  with  oil,  by  suspending  a  long  thin 
slice  of  whale,  seal,  or  walrus  blubber  near  the 
flame,  the  warmth  of  which  causes  the  oil  to  drip 
into  the  vessel  until  the  whole  is  extracted.  Im- 
mediately over  the  lamp  is  fixed  a  rude  and  rickety 
frame-work  of  wood,  from  which  their  pots  are  sus- 
pended, and  serving  also  to  sustain  a  large  hoop 
of  bone,  having  a  net  stretched  tight  within  it.  This 
contrivance,  called  Innetat,  is  intended  for  the  re- 
ception of  any  wet  things,  and  is  usually  loaded 
with  boots,  shoes,  and  mittens. 

The  fire-place  just  described  as  situated  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  apartment,  has  always  two  lamps 
facing  different  ways,  one  for  each  family  occupying 
the  corresponding  bed-place.  There  is  frequently 
also  a  smaller  and  less-pretending  estabhshment  on 
the  same  model — lamp,  pot,  net  and  all — in  one  of 
the  corners  next  the  door ;  for  one  apartment 
sometimes  contains  three  families,  which  are  always 
closely  related,  and  no  married  woman,  or  even  a 
widow  without  children,  is  without  her  separate 
fire-place. 

With  all  the  lamps  lighted  and  the  hut  full  of  peo- 
ple and  dogs,  a  thermometer  placed  on  the  net  over 
the  fire  indicated  a  temperature  of  38°;  when  re- 
moved two  or  three  feet  from  this  situation,  it  fell 
to  3r,  and  placed  close  to  the  wall  stood  at  23% 
the  temperature  of  the  open  air  at  the  time  being 
25**  below  zero,  A  greater  degree  of  warmth  than 
this  produces  extreme  inconvenience,  by  the  drop- 
ping from  the  roofs.  This  they  endeavour  to  obviate,. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  293 

by  applying  a  little  piece  of  snow  to  the  place  from 
which  a  drop  proceeds,  and  this  adhering,  is  for  a 
short  time  an  effectual  remedy ;  but  for  several 
weeks  in  the  spring,  when  the  weather  is  too  warm 
for  these  edifices,  and  still  too  cold  for  tents,  they 
suffer  much  on  this  account. 

From  the  celerity  with  which  the  Esquimaux  per- 
formed these  operations,  the  surprise  of  the  officers, 
at  the  sudden  appearance  of  the  snow  village  ceased, 
as  they  now  saw  that  two  or  three  hours  were  more 
than  sufficient  to  complete  the  whole  establishment, 
as  they  had  at  first  found  it. 

The  operatives  were  taken  on  board  and  derived 
great  amusement  from  an  organ,  and  from  anything 
in  the  shape  of  music,  singing,  or  dancing, — of  all 
which  they  are  remarkably  fond.  Nor  can  we  here 
omit  a  striking  instance  of  the  honesty  of  these 
people,  which  occurred  this  day.  Some  of  the 
gendemen  of  the  Hecla  had  purchased  two  of  their 
dogs,  which  had  the  preceding  evening  made  their 
escape  and  returned  to  the  huts.  After  the  depar- 
ture of  the  Esquimaux  this  day,  they  were  surprised 
to  find  that  they  had  left  two  dogs  carefully  tied  up 
on  board  the  Fury,  which  on  inquiry  proved  to  be 
the  animals  in  question,  and  which  had  been  thus 
faithfully  restored  to  their  rightful  owners. 


25* 

til   ij-'dV. 


294  POLAR   REGIONS. 


CHAPTER   Vn. 

Esquimaux. — Musical  Concert. — An  Esquimaux  whipped  for  Theft. — Starva- 
tion.— Captain  Parry  accompanies  a  Seahng  Party. 

On  the   5th,  a  number   of  the  natives   came   on 
board  according  to  promise  to  rebuild  the  hut  in  a 
more  substantial  manner,  and  to  put  a  plate  of  ice 
into  the  roof  as  a  window,  which  they  did  with 
great  quickness  as  well  as  care,  several  of  the  wo- 
men cheerfully  assisting  in  the  labor.     The  men 
seemed  to  take  no  small  pride  in  showing  in  how 
expeditious  and  workman-like  a  manner  they  could 
perform  this;  and  the  hut  with  its  outer  passage 
was  soon  completed.     From  this  time  they  were  in 
the  constant  habit  of  coming  freely  to  the  ships; 
and  such  as  it  was  not  always  convenient  to  admit, 
usually  found  very  profitable  employment  in  ex- 
amining the  heaps  of  ashes,  sand,  and  other  rubbish 
on  the  outside,  where  their  trouble  was  well  repaid 
by  picking  up  small  scraps  of  tin  or  iron.     All  that 
they  found  in  this  manner  they  were  allowed  to 
consider   their   lawful   property ;  but   the    officers 
were  very  particular  in  preventing  their  handling 
anything  on  board  without  permission. 

The  wolves  had  now  begun  to  do  some  damage ; 
for  not  even  the  sails  that  were  fastened  round  the 
house  and  observatory  could  escape  their  ravenous 
fangs,  and  they  had  thus  in  the  course  of  a  single 
night  much  injured  two  studding-sails.  Traps  were 
set  for  them  on  the  ice  ;  and  also  large  shark-hooks 


POLAR    REGIONS.  295 

secured  with  chains  and  baited  with  meat ;  but  the 
former  they  entered  and  destroyed,  and  the  latter 
were  always  found  broken  or  bent,  without  securing 
the  depredators.  These  animals  were  indeed  so 
hungry  and  fearless  as  to  take  away  some  of  the 
Esquimaux  dogs  in  a  snow-house  near  the  Hecla's 
stern,  though  the  men  were  at  the  time  within  a 
few  yards  of  them. 

From  the  circumstance  of  Captains  Lyon  and 
Parry  having  accidentally  gone  into  different  huts 
on  their  first  visits  to  the  village,  (for  with  this  name 
we  beheve  we  must  venture  to  dignify  the  united 
abodes  of  more  than  sixty  human  beings,)  particular 
individuals  among  the  Esquimaux  had  already  in  a 
manner  attached  themselves  to  each  of  them. 

On  the  7th,  Capt.  Parry  paid  another  visit  to  the 
huts,  where  he  found  scarcely  anybody  but  women 
and  children,  all  of  the  men,  with  the  exception 
of  the  two  oldest,  having  gone  on  a  sealing  excur- 
sion to  the  northeastern  side  of  the  island.  One 
of  the  women  named  Iligliuk,  a  sister  of  the  lad 
Toolooak,  who  favored  him  with  a  song,  had  a  re- 
markably soft  voice,  an  excellent  ear,  and  a  great 
fondness  for  singing ;  for  there  was  scarcely  any 
stopping  her  when  she  had  once  begun.  The 
Captains  had,  on  their  first  visit  to  the  ships,  re- 
marked this  trait  in  IligUuk's  disposition,  when  she 
was  listening  for  the  first  time  to  the  sound  of  the 
organ,  of  which  she  seemed  never  to  have  enough ; 
and  almost  every  day  she  now  began  to  display 
some  symptom  of  that  superiority  of  understanding 
for  which  she  was  remarkably  distinguished.     A 


296  POLAR    REGIONS. 

few  of  the  women  learned  several  of  the  visiters' 
names,  and  we  believe  all  thought  them  Angekoks  or 
sorcerers  of  a  very  superior  class,  when  they  re- 
peated to  them  all  round,  by  the  assistance  of 
books,  the  names  of  all  their  husbands,  obtained  on 
board  the  preceding  day.  On  the  way  back  to  the 
ships,  they  saw  a  party  of  them,  with  their  dogs, 
returning  over  the  hill  from  the  northeastward ;  and 
afterwards  met  another  of  eight  or  ten  who  had 
walked  round  by  the  southeast  point  on  the  ice,  all  alike 
unsuccessful,  after  being  out  in  the  wind  for  six 
hours  with  the  thermometer  from  18  to  22  degrees 
below  zero.  Thus  hardly  did  these  people  obtain 
their  daily  subsistence  at  this  severe  season  of  the 
year! 

On  the  8th,  the  ships  were  visited  by  a  musical 
party  of  females,  who  had  been  specially  invited 
for  the  purpose.  The  officers  assembled  in  the 
Fury's  cabin  to  hear  them,  and  the  notes  of  their 
songs  were  taken  down.  They  were  in  their  turn 
entertained  with  a  concert  of  flutes  and  violins,  with 
which  they  were  delighted  to  extasy.  It  would 
appear  that  these  people  have  generally  a  great 
musical  susceptibiUty,  which  is  not  the  case  with 
the  hunting  savages  of  the  new  continent. 

Finding  that  these  poor  creatures  were  really  in 
want  of  food,  Captain  Parry  suppUed  them  with  a 
few  pounds  of  bread  dust,  which,  however  hungry 
themselves,  they  did  not  eat,  but  took  home  to  their 
children.  ' 

As  yet  none  of  the  Esquimaux  had  learned  to 
beg,  with  the  exception  of  one  old  man.     He  had 


POLAR    REGIONS.  297 

become  extremely  troublesome ;  and  one  day  steal- 
ing a  nail,  Captain  Parry  took  advantage  of  the  cir- 
cumstance, which  he  magnified  into  a  grave  offence, 
to  get  rid  of  him.  Calling  all  the  other  Esquimaux 
on  board  together,  and  having  in  their  presence 
expressed  the  utmost  indignation,  he  turned  the 
offender  out  of  the  ship  in  disgrace.  Among  those 
present  were  the  son  and  daughter  of  the  culprit, 
w^ho  did  not  in  the  slightest  degree  appear  to  con- 
sider themselves  imphcated  in  their  father's  offence, 
or  concerned  in  his  shame. 

The  Esquimaux  hunted  diligently  for  seals,  but 
having  no  success,  they  were  reduced  to  great  ex- 
tremities. It  must  be  remembered  that  any  failure 
in  sealing  involves  them  in  a  double  calamity,  for  it 
not  only  deprives  them  of  food,  but  of  fuel  for  their 
lamps.  When  this  is  the  case,  not  to  mention  the 
absence  of  warmth  and  light  from  their  huts,  they 
are  also  destitute  of  the  means  of  melting  snow  for 
drink,  and  can  only  quench  their  thirst  by  eating 
the  snow,  which  we  know  by  experience  to  be  a, 
wretched  resource.  In  consequence  of  this  priva- 
tion the  quantity  of  water  drank  by  those  who 
visited  the  ships  was  astonishing ;  the  coppers  could 
scarcely  supply  the  demand.  One  of  them  drank 
a  gallon  in  less  than  two  hours.  Captain  Parry  hu- 
manely provided  them  with  food,  but  this  did  not 
hinder  them  from  devouring  the  raw,  frozen  car- 
cass of  a  wolf,  which  had  been  shot  from  the  Hecla, 
In  all  this  suffering  it  was  pleasing  to  observe  that 
none  of  them  would  touch  a  morsel  till  they  had 
first  fed  their  hungry  little  ones. 


298  POLAR  REGIONS. 

On  the  11th  the  thermometer  stood  at  from — 26° 
to  — 30^  Notwithstanding  the  rigor  of  the  weather, 
some  of  the  Esquimaux  came  on  board ;  indeed  no 
degree  of  cold  seemed  sufficient  to  confine  these 
people  at  home. 

In  the  morning  of  the  12th,  two  of  the  savages 
came  on  board  the  Hecla.  The  stage  and  scenery 
had  just  been  set  up,  and  they  w^ere  directed  to 
invite  their  fellows  to  come  and  see  it.  Coming 
three  or  four  hours  before  '  John  Bull '  was  to  com- 
mence, they  began  to  grow  inlpatient,  especially 
after  dark,  when  the  candles  were  brought,  and  the 
men  returned  to  their  huts.  They  remained  long 
enough,  however,  to  have  a  peep  at  Mrs  Brulgrud- 
dery,  whose  dress  they  very  eagerly  examined, 
when  they  were  told  that  it  was  a  kabloona  noollee-o, 
or  white  woman. 

On  the  next  day,  our  savage  friends  were  so  for- 
tunate as  to  kill  three  seals,  an  event  that  created 
an  exceeding  great  joy  in  the  village.  There  was 
a  general  outcry ;  the  women  hurried  to  the  doors 
of  the  huts,  and  the  children  rushed  to  the  beach 
to  assist  the  men  to  drag  their  prizes  along.  One 
of  these  urchins,  to  complete  the  triumph,  threw 
himself  upon  a  seal,  and  chnging  fast  to  it,  was  thus 
dragged  to  the  huts.  Each  woman  brought  her 
cooking-pot  to  the  wigwam  where  the  animal  was 
dissected  in  order  to  get  a  portion  of  the  meat  and 
blubber.  This  evening  a  wolf,  being  the  third 
taken,  was  entrapped. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Capt.  Parry 
joined  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  who  were  going  in 


POLAR  REGIONS.  299 

quest  of  seals.  Having  attained  a  suitable  distance 
from  the  shore,  they  separated  into  two  or  three 
different  parties  stationed  at  the  distance  of  half  a 
mile  from  each  other,  along  the  edge  of  the  floe,  be- 
yond which,  to  the  eastward,  there  was  clear  water 
as  far  as  could  be  seen  for  the  frost  smoke. 

The  party  Capt.  Parry  joined  were  seated  on 
a  high  hummock  of  ice,  looking  out  for  seals, 
with  their  spears  in  their  hands.  Suddenly,  one  of 
them,  named  Okotook,  sprung  up,  and  started  along 
the  edge  of  the  ice,  without  giving  the  least  intima- 
tion of  his  intentions.  His  companions,  however, 
seemed  so  well  aware  of  them,  that  they  immedi- 
ately followed  him,  and  the  Captain  did  the  same ; 
the  whole  party  walking  very  fast,  and  the  native 
looking  attentively  seaw^ard  for  seals.  After  being 
thus  engaged  for  more  than  an  hour.  Captain  Parry 
judged,  from  the  motions  of  a  party  at  a  distance, 
that  they  had  a  seal  in  view.  As  he  approached 
them,  Okotook  began  to  be  apprehensive  that  the 
Captain,  who  did  not  understand  the  matter,  might 
spoil  the  sport.  To  prevent  this,  he  did  the  most 
civil  thing  he  could  imagine,  which  was  to  send  his 
companions  one  by  one  to  the  spot,  while  he  re- 
mained himself  with  the  Captain,  and  took  care  to 
keep  him  at  a  distance  whence  he  could  see  the 
proceedings  without  alarming  the  animal  they  pur^ 
sued.  The  other  Esquimaux,  forming  one  party, 
disposed  themselves  in  single  file  so  as  to  present 
as  small  a  front  as  possible  in  the  direction  in  which 
they  were  going,  and  in  this  manner  they  crept 
cautiously  toward  the  margin  of  the  floe.     On  a 


300  POLAR    REGIONS. 

sudden  they  all  stooped  quite  low,  to  hide  them- 
selves, and  so  continued  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  dur- 
ing which  they  arranged  their  lines  and  spears,  and 
then  when  the  seal  was  intercepted  from  their  view, 
gained  a  few  paces  upon  him  in  the  same  cautious 
manner  as  before.  When  they  had  been  thus  oc- 
cupied a  full  hour,  the  seal,  which  had  been  lying 
upon  the  ice,  plunged  into  the  water,  and  they  gave 
up  the  chase.  All  this  time  Okotook  could  scarce- 
ly restrain  his  impatience,  which  could  only  be  di- 
minished by  permitting  him  to  look  through  a  spy- 
glass. When  he  saw  for  what  it  was  intended,  he 
had  no  words  to  express  his  surprise  and  satisfac- 
tion. 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

Danger  of  the  Seal  Hunters. — A  Seal  Hole. — Manner  of  Watching  Seal 
Holes. — Manner  of  Catching  Seals  and  Walrusses. — Another  Instance  of 
Theft. — Ferocity  of  the  Wolf. — Esquimaux  Dwellings. — Seals  killed. — 
Seal  Butchery. — Seals. 

As  soon  as  the  party  had  given  up  the  seal  they 
had  been  watching,  they  turned  their  steps  home- 
ward, whither,  it  being  in  the  direction  of  the  ships, 
Captain  Parry  was  not  sorry  to  accompany  them. 
They  were  at  this  time  three  or  four  miles  from  the 
vessels,  and  full  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  shore. 
In  the  open  water  beyond  the  floe  the  tide  was 
running  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour,  and  a 
sheet  as  substantial  as  that  on  which  they  stood  had 


POLAR    REGIONS.  301 

been  carried  away  by  the  stream.  Capt.  Parry  was 
not  without  some  apprehension  that  they  might  be 
detatched  from  the  shore,  and  carried  to  sea,  an 
accident  which  has  often  happened  to  Esquimaux, 
and  has  probably  often  befallen  them  when  none 
survived  to  tell  the  tale. 

As  they  returned  toward  the  shore,  they  came  to 
a  small  rising  on  the  level  surface  of  the  ice,  not 
larger  than  a  mole  hill,  at  which  one  of  the  Esqui- 
maux instantly  stopped.  His  companions  called 
Capt.  Parry  aw^ay,  explaining  that  what  he  saw  was 
the  work  of  a  seal,  and  that  it  was  probable  the  an- 
imal would  finish  the  hole  and  come  upon  the  ice, 
in  which  case  the  man  who  had  stopped  would  try 
to  kill  it.  The  Captain  watched  him  for  half  an 
hour,  and  observed  him  frequently  putting  his  ear 
to  the  ice,  as  if  in  the  act  of  listening  for  the  seal, 
but  without  otherwise  changing  his  posture.  He 
was  not  successful. 

II,  however,  an  Esquimaux  has  strong  reason  to 
beheve  that  a  seal  is  at  work  beneath,  he  attaches 
himself  to  the  spot,  and  seldom  leaves  it  till  he  has 
killed  the  animal.  For  this  purpose,  he  builds  a 
wall  of  snow  about  four  feet  in  height,  to  shelter 
him  from  the  wind,  and,  seating  himself  under  the 
lee  of  it,  deposits  his  spear,  lines,  and  other  imple- 
ments upon  several  Htde  forked  sticks  inserted  into 
the  snow,  in  order  to  prevent  the  smallest  noise  be- 
ing made  in  moving  them  when  wanted.  But  the 
most  curious  precaution  to  the  same  effect  consists 
in  tying  his  own  knees  together  with  a  thong,  so 
securely  as  to  prevent  any  rusding  of  his  clothes, 
26 


302  POLAR  REGIONS. 

which  might  otherwise  alarm  the  animal.  In  this 
situation,  a  man  will  sit  quietly  sometimes  for  hours 
together,  attentively  Hstening  to  any  noise  made  by 
the  seal,  and  sometimes  using  the  keip-kuttuk,  an  in- 
strument hereafter  to  be  described,  in  order  to  ascer- 
tain whether  the  animal  is  still  at  work  below.  When 
he  supposes  the  hole  to  be  nearly  completed,  he 
cautiously  lifts  his  spear,  to  which  the  line  has  been 
previously  attached,  and  as  soon  as  the  blowing  of 
the  seal  is  distinctly  heard,  and  the  ice  consequent- 
ly very  thin,  he  drives  it  into  him  with  the  force  of 
both  arms,  and  then  cuts  away  with  his  panna  the 
remaining  crust  of  ice,  to  enable  him  to  repeat  the 
wounds  and  get  him  out.  The  neitiek  is  the  only 
seal  killed  in  this  manner,  and  being  the  smallest,  is 
held  while  struggling,  either  simply  by  hand,  or  by 
putting  the  line  round  a  spear  with  the  point  stuck 
into  the  ice.  For  the  oguke,  the  line  is  passed 
round  the  man's  leg  or  arm ;  and  for  a  walrus,  round 
his  body,  his  feet  being  at  the  same  time  firmly  set 
against  a  hummock  of  ice,  in  which  position  these 
people  can  from  habit  hold  against  a  very  heavy 
strain.  Boys  of  fourteen  or  fifteen  years  of  age 
consider  themselves  equal  to  the  killing  of  a  neitiek^ 
but  it  requires  a  full-grown  person  to  master  either 
of  the  larger  animals. 

On  the  17th,  a  number  of  the  Esquimaux  coming 
to  the  ships  during  divine  service,  were  not  admitted, 
and  they  were  given  to  understand  that  they  must 
refrain  from  visiting  every  seventh  day.  They  ac- 
quiesced cheerfully  in  this  arrangement ;  indeed,  it 
is  difficult  to  conceive  greater  docihty  than  they 
evinced  on  all  occasions. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  303 

On  the  20th,  an  Esquimaux  woman  stole  one  of 
the  cooper's  tools,  which  was  the  second  instance 
of  theft  observed  among  these  people.  It  may  be 
doubted  if  the  whites  were  not  as  much  to  blame  as 
the  Indians,  for  leaving  temptations  in  their  way, 
which  it  was  scarcely  possible  they  should  with- 
stand; nevertheless,  Captain  Parry  thought  it  ex- 
pedient to  go  through  the  same  ceremony  as  on  the 
former  occasion,  and  dismissed  the  women  with 
every  manifestation  of  indignation. 

The  ships'  companies  had  more  than  one  oppor- 
tunity to  observe  the  extreme  ferocity  of  the  wolvesr 
One  of  them  being  caught  in  a  trap,  a  party  of  the 
officers  went  to  secure  him,  and  fired  two  balls  into 
the  trap  at  once,  to  despatch  him.    Finding  that  after 
this  he  continued  to  bite  at  a  sword  that  was  thrust 
into  the  trap,  a  third  shot  was  fired  at  him.     The 
trap  was  then  opened  sufficiently  to  tie  his  hind  legs 
together,  after  which  he  was  pulled  out.     As  soon 
as  he  was  clear  of  the  enclosure,  he  sprung  furious- 
ly at  the  throat  of  one  of  the  officers,  and  would 
have  done  him  a  serious  mischief,  had  he  not,  in 
his  turn,  seized   the    animal   firmly  by    the   neck, 
squeezing  him  with  both  hands  with  all  his   force. 
This  made  the  wolf  relinquish  his  first  attempt,  and 
the  officer  only  suffered  by  one  bite  in  his  arm  and 
another  in  his  knee.     The  wolf  then  ran  and  es- 
caped, though  two  of  his  legs  were   tied  together. 
The  following  day  he  was  found  dead,  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  from  the  ships. 

At  another  time,  an  officer  observing  an  Esqui- 
maux dog  attacked  by  several  wolves,  went  to  the 


304  POLAR    REGIONS. 

spot  with  his  gun,  but  arrived  toe  late.  The  wolves 
had  made  so  quick  a  division  of  their  prey,  that 
though  he  arrived  in  a  few  minutes,  only  one  of  the 
hind  legs  remained,  each  w^olf  having  ran  off  with 
his  share. 

Captain  Lyon  remarked  that  an  eclipse  of  the 
sun,  which  took  place  on  the  20th,  created  great 
consternation  among  the  Esquimaux.  Two  of  them 
were  found  on  the  ice,  lying  on  their  faces  ;  but  their 
solution  of  the  phenomenon  could  not  be  ascer- 
tained. 

On  the  23d,  Captain  Parry  again  visited  the  Es- 
quimaux huts.  They  had  changed  their  appearance 
since  his  first  visit;  the  roofs  were  blackened  with 
the  smoke  of  the  lamps ;  and  the  warmth  had  in 
most  parts  given  them  a  glazed  and  honey-combed 
surface;  indeed,  the  whole  of  the  v/alls  had  be- 
come much  thinner  by  thawing,  so  that  the  light 
was  more  plainly  visible  through  them.  The  snow 
also,  on  which  the  lamps  stood,  was  considerably 
worn  away,  so  as  to  destroy,  in  a  great  measure,  the 
regularity  of  the  original  plan  of  consl;ruction.  To 
these  changes  might  be  added  that  of  a  vast  quan- 
tity of  blood  and  oil,  which  now  defaced  the  purity 
of  the  snowy  floor,  and  emitted  effluvia  not  very 
agreeable  to  European  nostrils ;  so  that,  upon  the 
whole,  it  may  be  imagined  that  the  first  impressions 
of  the  comfort  and  cleanliness  of  these  habitations 
were  more  favorable  than  their  present  state  v/as 
calculated  to  excite. 

To  the  original  apartments  they  had  now  also 
added  various  smaller  places  for  stores,  communi- 
cating with  the  huts  from  within,  and  looking  some- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  305 

thing  like  our  ovens,  though  without  any  door  to 
them.  In  some  of  these  they  deposited  their  up- 
per jackets,  which  they  usually  take  off  in  coming 
into  their  huts,  as  we  do  a  great  coat ;  while  in 
smaller  ones,  like  little  shelves  in  a  recess,  they 
kept  various  articles  of  their  Kabloona  riches. 
These  and  similar  alterations  and  additions  they 
were  constantly  making  throughout  the  winter; 
for  their  inexhaustible  materials  being  always  at 
hand,  it  required  but  little  time  and  labor  to  adopt 
any  arrangement  that  might  suit  their  convenience. 
After  distributing  a  number  of  presents  in  the 
first  four  huts,  Capt.  Parry  found,  on  entering  the 
last,  that  an  Esquimaux  had  been  successful  in  bring- 
ing in  a  seal,  over  which  two  elderly  women  were 
standing,  armed  with  large  knives,  their  hands  and 
faces  besmeared  with  blood,  and  delight  and  exul- 
tation depicted  on  their  countenances.  They  had 
just  performed  the  first  operation  of  dividing  the 
animal  into  two  parts,  and  thus  laying  open  the  in- 
testines. These  being  taken  out,  and  all  the  blood 
carefully  baled  up  and  put  into  the  ootkooseek,  or 
cooking-pot,  over  the  fire,  they  separated  the  head 
and  flippers  from  the  carcass,  and  then  divided  the 
ribs.  All  the  loose  scraps  were  put  into  the  pot 
for  immediate  use,  except  such  as  the  two  butchers 
now  and  then  crammed  into  their  mouths,  or  dis- 
tributed to  the  numerous  and  eager  bystanders  for 
still  more  immediate  consumption.  .  Of  these  mor- 
sels the  children  came  in  foiv  no  small  share,  every 
little  urchin  that  could  find  its  way  to  the  slaughter- 
house, running  eagerly  in,  and,  between  the  legs  of 
26* 


306  POLAR    REGIONS. 

the  men  and  women,  presenting  its  mouth  for  a 
large  lump  of  raw  flesh,  just  as  an  English  child  of 
the  same  age  might  do  for  a  piece  of  sugar-candy. 
Every  now  and  then  also  a  dog  would  make  his 
way  towards  the  reeking  carcass,  and  when  in  the 
act  of  seizing  upon  some  delicate  part,  was  sent  off 
yelping  by  a  heavy  blow^  with  the  handles  of  the 
knives.  When  all  the  flesh  is  disposed  of,  for  a 
portion  of  which  each  of  the  women  from  the  other 
huts  usually  brings  her  ootkooseek,  the  blubber  still 
remains  attached  to  the  skin,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated the  last;  and  the  business  being  now  com- 
pleted, the  two  parts  of  the  hide  are  rolled  up  and 
laid  by,  together  with  the  store  of  flesh  and  blub- 
ber. During  the  dissection  of  their  seals,  they  have 
a  curious  custom  of  sticking  a  thin  filament  of  skin, 
or  of  some  part  of  the  intestines,  upon  the  fore- 
heads of  the  boys,  who  are  themselves  extremely 
fond  of  it,  it  being  intended,  as  was  afterwards 
ascertained,  to  make  them  fortunate  seal-catchers. 

The  seals  which  they  take  during  the  winter  are 
of  two  kinds,  the  neitiek,  or  small  seal  (phoca  his- 
pida),  and  the  oguke,  or  large  seal  (phoca  harhata). 
These  and  the  ei-u-ek,  or  walrus,  constitute  their 
means  of  subsistence  at  this  season ;  but,  on  this 
particular  part  of  the  coast,  the  latter  are  not  very 
abundant,  and  they  chiefly  catch  the  neitiek.  The 
animal  Capt.  Parry  had  now  seen  dissected  was  of 
that  kind,  and  with  young  at  the  time.  A  small  one 
taken  out  of  it  had  a  4)eautiful  skin,  which,  both  in 
softness  and  color,  very  much  resembled  raw  silk ; 
but  no  inducement  could  make  the  owner  part  with 
it,  he  having  destined  it  for  that  night's  supper. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  307 


CHAPTER   IX. 

Health  of  the  Esquimaux. — Their  envious  Disposition. — Captain  Lyon's 
Journey. — Removal  of  Esquimaux,  &c. — Captain  Parry  lodges  with 
the  Savages. 

Almost  the  whole  of  the  Esquimaux  were  now 
affected  with  violent  colds  and  coughs,  occasioned 
by  a  considerable  thawing  that  had  lately  taken 
place  in  their  huts,  so  as  to  wet  their  clothes  and 
bedding ;  but  they  had  as  yet  experienced  no  great  in- 
crease of  temperature.  From  the  nature  of  their 
habitations,  however,  their  comfort  was  greater, 
and  their  chance  of  health  better,  when  the  cold 
was  more  severe.  On  this  account  they  began  to 
make  fresh  alterations  in  these  curious  dwelHng- 
places,  either  by  building  the  former  apartments 
two  or  three  feet  higher,  or  adding  others,  that  they 
might  be  less  crowded.  In  building  a  higher  hut 
they  constructed  it  over,  and,  as  it  were,  concentric 
with  the  old  one,  which  was  then  removed  from  w  ith- 
in.  It  is  curious  to  consider  that,  in  all  these 
alterations,  the  object  kept  in  view  was  coolness, 
and  this  in  houses  formed  of  snow! 

This  month  (February)  closed  with  the  ther- 
mometer at — 32%  and  though  the  sun  had  attained 
a  meridian  altitude  of  nearly  sixteen  degrees,  and 
remained  above  the  horizon  ten  hours  every  day, 
no  sensible  effect  was  as  yet  produced  on  the  tem- 
perature. The  uniform  white  surface  of  the  snow, 
on  which  the  sun's  rays  have  at  this  season  to  act, 


308  POLAR    REGIONS. 

or  rather  leaving  them  nothing  to  act  upon,  is  much 
against  their  first  efforts  to  produce  a  thaw. 

Captain  Parry  had  communicated  to  an  Esqui- 
maux named  Ayoket,  his  intention  to  send  a  party 
to  the  northward  in  the  spring;  and  Captain  Lyon 
had  displayed  to  him  all  the  charms  of  a  brightly 
polished  brass  kettle,  of  greater  magnitude  than 
had  perhaps  ever  entered  into  an  Esquimaux  im- 
agination, as  an  inducement  among  various  others 
for  him  to  accompany  the  Kabloonas  in  their  ex- 
cursion. The  prospect  of  such  riches  was  a  tempta- 
tion almost  irresistible;  but  enterprise  is  not  the  char- 
acteristic of  an  Esquimaux,  and  Ayoket,  the  Captain 
soon  began  to  perceive,  had  no  fancy  for  the  pro- 
posed trip,  which  all  his  friends  persisted  in  saying 
could  never  be  accomplished.  This  was  evidently 
to  be  attributed,  in  no  small  degree,  to  jealousy  of 
any  one  individual  among  them  being  thus  selected ; 
and  the  brass  kettle  was  speedily  the  means  of  in- 
creasing the  distance  to  '  Iligliuk's  country '  from 
sixteen  to  twentyfour  days'  journey.  It  had  long, 
indeed,  been  observed  that  this  feeling  of  jealousy 
was  easily  excited  among  these  people ;  but,  what 
is  extraordinary,  it  never  displayed  itself  (as  is  most 
usual)  among  themselves,  but  was  entirely  vented 
upon  the  whites,  who  were,  though  innocently,  the 
authors  of  it.  As  an  instance  of  this,  a  man  of  the 
name  of  Karretok  refused  to  take  from  Capt.  Parry 
a  strong  and  useful  pair  of  scissors,  as  a  present, 
because,  as  he  did  not  hesitate  to  say,  the  Captain 
had  given  Okotook  a  pike,  which  was  more  valua- 
ble.    To  show  him  that  this  temper  was  not  hkely 


POLAR  REGIONS.  309 

to  produce  anything  to  his  advantage,  Capt.  Parry 
took  back  the  scissors,  and,  having  sent  him  away, 
went  to  dinner.  .  Going  accidentally  on  deck  an 
hour  afterwards,  he  found  Karretok  still  on  board, 
who,  having  had  time  to  reflect  on  his  folly,  now 
came  with  a  smiling  face,  and  begged  hard  for  the 
scissors,  w^hich,  of  course,  he  did  not  get.  Many 
similar  instances  occurred. 

To  this  discouragement  on  the  part  of  his  friends, 
was  added  on  that  of  Ayoket  the  same  wavering 
and  inconstant  disposition  which  most  other  sav- 
ages possess,  rendering  it  impossible  to  place  any 
dependence  on  his  promises  and  intentions  for  two 
hours  together.  Indeed  the  more  the  scheme  was 
pressed  upon  his  attention,  and  the  more  he  saw 
of  the  actual  preparations  for  the  journey,  the  less 
doubtful  his  intentions  became ;  and  arrangements 
were  therefore  made  for  completing  the  party  with- 
out him.  For  the  reasons  now  given,  it  was  equal- 
ly impossible  ever  to  direct  the  attention  of  the  Es- 
quimaux, with  any  hope  of  success,  to  a  scheme  of 
their  conveying  letters  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  settle- 
ments. 

On  the  loth,  at  seven  A.M.,  Capt.  Lyon  and  his 
party  left  the  ship  ;  the  thermometer  being  as  high 
as  zero,  and  a  breeze  blowing,  accompanied  by  a 
considerable  drift  of  snow.  From  the  very  hour  of 
his  departure  the  thermometer  fell  rapidly,  and  the 
wind  increased ;  till  at  midnight  the  mercury  was 
at  — 32°,  and  a  hard  gale  blew  from  the  northwest. 
It  proved  one  of  the  most  inclement  possible  nights 
for  persons  to  be  exposed  in,  and  serious  appre- 


1 


310  POLAR    REGIONS. 

hensions  were  entertained  for  the  safety  of  the 
travellers.  The  wind  and  drift  increased  the  next 
day,  and  the  thermometer  rose  no  higher  than  — 26°. 
Nevertheless,  Capt.  Lyon  and  his  party  returned 
safely  on  board.  They  had  suffered  dreadfully;  the 
faces  of  several  were  severely  frost-bitten,  and  they 
had  had  great  difficulty  in  finding  their  way  to  the 
ships.  Those  only  who  have  been  in  similar  dis- 
tress can  imagine  their  joy  on  gaining  a  shelter 
The  continuance  of  this  weather  brought  the  Es- 
quimaux to  actual  starvation,  and  they  came  to  the 
vessels  and  begged  for  food  with  more  than  usual 
earnestness.  We  hardly  need  say  that  their  call 
was  heard. 

On  the  2d  of  April,  a  thin  sheet  of  bay  ice,  several 
miles  square,  had  formed  on  the  sea,  where,  for 
two  or  three  days  past  there  had  been  open  water. 
This  was  occasioned  by  the  absence  of  wind,  and 
by  the  occurrence  of  neap  tides,  rather  than  from 
severe  cold,  the  thermometer  seldom  falling  below 
— •6''  or  — 7°,  The  wind  setting  in,  the  main  body 
of  ice  began  to  move  toward  the  shore,  and  forced 
the  new  floe  before  it,  squeezing  it  into  innumer- 
able hummocks,  which,  being  presently  cemented 
together,  gave  an  example  of  the  manner  in  which 
floes  full  of  hummocks  are  produced. 

Early  in  the  morning  the  Esquimaux  were  ob- 
served to  be  in  motion  about  the  huts,  and  several 
sledges,  drawn  by  dogs,  went  off*  to  the  westward. 
On  going  to  the  village,  it  was  found  that  one-half  of 
the  people  had  quitted  their  late  habitations,  taking 
with  them  every  article  of  their  property,  and  had 


POLAR  KEGIONS.  311 

gone  over  the  ice,  in  quest  of  more  abundant  food. 
The  wretched  appearance  which  the  interior  of  the 
huts  now  presented  baffles  all  description.  In 
each  of  the  larger  ones  some  of  the  apartments 
were  either  wholly  or  in  part  deserted,  the  very 
snow"  which  composed  the  beds  and  fire-places 
having  been  turned  up,  that  no  article  might  be  left 
behind.  Even  the  bare  walls,  whose  original  color 
was  scarcely  perceptible  for  lamp-black,  blood,  and 
other  filth,  were  not  left  perfect,  large  holes  having 
been  made  in  the  sides  and  roofs,  for  the  conve- 
nience of  handing  out  the  goods  and  chattels.  The 
sight  of  a  deserted  habitation  is  at  all  times  calcu- 
lated to  excite  in  the  mind  a  sensation  of  dreariness 
and  desolation,  especially  when  we  have  lately  seen 
it  filled  with  cheerful  inhabitants ;  but  the  feeling  is 
even  heightened  rather  than  diminished  when  a 
small  portion  of  these  inhabitants  remain  behind,  to 
endure  the  wretchedness  which  such  a  scene  ex- 
hibits. This  was  now  the  case  at  the  village,  where, 
though  the  remaining  tenants  of  each  hut  had  com- 
bined to  occupy  one  of  the  apartments,  a  great 
part  of  the  bed-places  were  still  bare,  and  the  wind 
and  drift  blowing  in  through  the  holes  which  they 
had  not  yet  taken  the  trouble  to  stop  up.  An  old 
man,  Hikkeiera,  and  his  wife  occupied  a  hut  by  them- 
selves, without  any  lamp,  or  a  single  ounce  of  meat 
belonging  to  them ;  while  three  small  skins,  on 
which  the  former  was  lying,  were  all  that  they  pos- 
sessed in  the  way  of  blankets.  Upon  the  whole,  a 
more  miserable  spectacle  was  never  seen ;  and  it 
seamed  a  charity  to  hope  that  a  violent  and  constant 


312  POLAR     RRGTONS. 

cough,  with  which  the  old  man  was  afflicted,  would 
speedily  combine  with  his  age  and  infirmities  to  re- 
lease him  from  his  present  sufferings.  Yet  in  the 
midst  of  all  this  he  was  even  cheerful,  nor  was  there  a 
gloomy  countenance  to  be  seen  at  the  village.  Al- 
most all  the  men  were  out ;  and  some  of  them  had 
been  led  so  far  to  sea  upon  the  floating  and  detached 
masses  of  ice  in  pursuit  of  walrusses,  that  Capt 
Lyon,  who  observed  their  situation  from  the  ships, 
had  it  in  contemplation,  in  the  course  of  the  eve- 
ning, to  launch  one  of  the  small  boats  to  go  to  their 
assistance.  They  seemed,  however,  to  entertain 
no  apprehension  themselves,  from  a  confidence, 
perhaps,  that  the  southeast  wind  might  be  depended 
upon  for  keeping  the  ice  close  home  upon  the  shore. 
It  is  certain,  notwithstanding,  that  no  degree  of  pre- 
caution, nor  any  knowledge  of  the  wtnds  and  tides, 
can  render  this  otherwise  than  a  most  perilous 
mode  of  obtaining  subsistence  ;  and  it  w^as  impossi- 
ble, therefore,  not  to  admire  the  fearlessness  as 
well  as  dexterity  with  which  the  Esquimaux  invari- 
ably pursued  it. 

After  giving  the  women  some  small  presents, 
Capt.  Parry  told  them  that  he  intended  lodging  in 
the  huts  that  night.  It  is  a  remarkable  trait  in  the 
character  of  these  people,  that  they  thank  a  stran- 
ger heartily  for  this,  as  well  as  for  eating  any  of 
their  food,  but  when  they  receive  the  like  hospital- 
ity they  show  not  the  smallest  thankfulness.  At  a 
wish  expressed  by  Capt.  Parry,  all  the  females,  not 
excepting  the  oldest,  assembled  to  entertain  him 
with  a  concert.     Neither  their  want  of  food  and 


POLAR   REGIONS.  313 

fuel,  nor  the  uncertainty  of  obtaining  any  that  night, 
could  deprive  these  poor  creatures  of  that  cheer- 
fulness which  seems  their  most  prominent  charac- 
teristic. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Particulars  respecting  the  Esquimaux. — Dissection  of  the  Seal. — Prepara- 
tions for  Departure. — Behaviour  of  a  sick  Savage. 

The  night  proved  thick,  with  snow,  and  as  dan- 
gerous and  disagreeable  for  persons  adrift  on  float- 
ing ice  as  can  well  be  imagined.     If  the  women, 
however,  spoke  of  their  husbands,  it  was  not  with 
concern,  but  simply  to  hope  they  might  be  success- 
ful.    The  singing  party  had  just  broken  up,  when  it 
was  announced  by  the  children  that  the  men  had 
killed  something  upon  the  ice.     The  only  two  men 
left  at  home  instantly  put  on  their  outer  jackets, 
harnessed  their  dogs,  and  set  off  to  assist  in  bring- 
ing home  the  game,  while  the  women  remained 
behind  in  anxious  suspense.     At  last,  one  of  the 
men  returned  with  the  news  that  two  walrusses  had 
been  taken,  and  brought  with  him  as  large  a  por- 
tion of  the  flesh  as  he  could  drag  over  the  snow. 
The  females   became  frantic ;  a  general  shout  of 
joy  was  heard  all  over  the  village ;  they  ran  to  each 
others'  huts  to  communicate  the  intelligence,  and 
hugged  one  another  in  an  extasy  of  delight.    When 
the  first  burst  of  joy  had  subsided,  they  repaired, 
27 


314  POLAR    REGIONS. 

one  by  one,  to  the  apartment  where  the  first  fruits 
of  the  hunt  had  been  conveyed.  Here  they  ob- 
tained enough  blubber  to  Hght  all  their  lamps,  and 
a  Httle  meat  for  their  children  and  themselves. 
Fresh  loads  arrived,  mostly  brought  by  dogs,  and 
the  rest  by  the  men,  who  each  dragged  home  his 
separate  portion. 

Every  lamp  was  soon  swimming  with  oil ;  the 
huts  exhibited  a  blaze  of  hght ;  and  never  was  there 
a  scene  of  more  joyous  festivity  than  while  the  op- 
eration of  cutting  up  the  walrusses  continued.     One 
of  the  women  gave  up  her  bed  to   Capt.  Parry, 
and  contented  herself  with  dozing  away  the  night 
in  an  upright  posture.     He  woke  often  in  the  night, 
and  always  found  some  of  the  Esquimaux  eating. 
Some    of  them   were   thus   incessantly   employed 
more   than  three   hours.     Indeed,  the  quantity  of 
food  they  contrive  to  devour  almost  exceeds  belief. 
Long  before  morning  the  men  again  departed  to 
renew   their  labors,   not  having  slept   more  than 
two  or  three  hours,  thus  proving  that  the  Esqui- 
maux do  not,  like  the  red  Indians,  give  themselves 
up  to  sloth  in  seasons  of  plenty,  but  are  willing  to 
take  advantage  of  every  favorable  opportunity.     It 
is  certain  that  were  these  people  less  gluttonous 
(for  they  do  not  waste  much)  they  would  seldom 
know  the  want  of  food,  even  at  the  most  inclement 
seasons.     On  a  second  visit  to  some  of  the  huts 
Capt.  Parry  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  seal 
dissected,  which  was  a  very  filthy  operation.     An 
old  woman  was  the  mistress  of  the   ceremony,  and 
was  presently  up  to  the  elbows  in  blood  and  oil. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  315 

Before  a  knife  is  put  into  the  animal,  as  it  lies  on 
its  back,  they  pour  a  little  water  into  its  mouth,  and 
touch  each  flipper  and  the  middle  of  the  belly  with 
a  little  lamp-black  and  oil,  taken   from  the  under 
part  of  the  lamp.     What  benefit  was  expected  from 
this  preparatory  ceremony  is  not  known,  but  it  was 
done  with  a  degree  of  superstitious  care  and   seri- 
ousness, that  bespoke  its  indispensable  importance. 
As  soon  as  this  dirty  operation  was  at  an  end,  during 
which  the  numerous  bystanders  amused  themselves 
in  chewing  the  intestines  of  the  seal,  the  strangers 
retired  to  their  own  huts,  each  bearing  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  flesh  and  blubber,  while  the  hosts   en- 
joyed a  hearty  meal  of  boiled  meat  and  hot  gravy 
soup.     A  small  boy  ate  at  least  three  pounds  of 
sohd  meat  in  the  first  three  hours  after  the  Captain's 
arrival  at  the  huts,  besides  a  tolerable  proportion 
of  soup,  all  which  his  mother  gave  him  w^henever 
he  asked  it,  without  the  smallest  remark  of  any 
kind. 

The  conversation  happened  to  fall  upon  the  red 
Indians,  a  people  none  of  these  Esquimaux  had 
ever  seen,  but  with  whose  ferocity  and  hostility  to 
their  own  nation  they  were  well  acquainted  by  re- 
port. When  the  Captain  related  to  them  the  mas- 
sacre of  the  Esquimaux  recorded  by  Hearne,  and 
gave  them  to  understand  that  the  Indians  spared 
neither  age  nor  sex,  it  seemed  to  chill  them  with 
horror. 

By  the  eleventh,  the  ships'  companies  began  to 
make  some  show  of  equipping  the  ships  for  sea, 
though  there  was,  as  yet,  but  Httle  prospect  of  a 


316  POLAR    REGIONS. 

speedy  departure.  The  boats  were  repaired,  the 
snow  was  cleared  away  from  about  the  ships,  and 
other  preparations  were  made.  They  also  began 
to  turn  up  a  small  piece  of  ground  for  a  garden, 
hoping  to  produce  something  in  the  way  of  vegeta- 
ble diet  before  removal,  especially  as  they  were 
supplied  with  glazed  frames  for  hot  beds.  There 
was  not,  however,  a  bare  spot  to  be  seen,  and  it 
was  necessary  to  clear  away  two  or  three  feet  of 
snow,  in  order  to  find  a  space  fit  for  the  purpose ; 
and  the  earth  was  then  so  full  of  stones  and  frozen 
ground  that  it  required  great  labor  to  prepare 
mould  enough  even  for  the  frames.  They  were 
nevertheless  completed,  and  sown  with  mustard, 
cress  and  pease.  Yet  it  soon  became  evident  that 
the  climate  was  too  rigorous  to  be  contended  with. 
A  register  thermometer  left  twentyfour  hours  under 
the  frames  ranged  from  25°  to  100%  they  being 
closely  covered  with  mats  after  sunset.  The  only 
w^ater  that  could  be  procured  for  the  seeds  was  by 
melting  snow,  and  the  snow-drifts  frequently  so 
covered  the  frames  that  the  labor  of  half  a  day  was 
often  requisite,  after  the  snow  had  fallen,  to  remove 
it  so  as  to  admit  the  light. 

It  was  suggested  that,  strongly  as  the  ice  was 
now  cemented  about  the  ships,  they  might,  by  cut- 
ting a  trench  round  their  bows  to  the  depth  of  three 
or  four  feet,  and  taking  care  not  to  admit  the  water, 
have  an  opportunity  to  examine  the  planks  and  caulk 
the  seams  where  they  most  required  it.  The  plan 
was  adopted,  and  was  found  to  answer  the  purpose 
for  which  it  w^as  intended,  completely. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  317 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Capt.  Lyon  again 
set  out  on  a  journey  of  discovery,  by  land.  They 
found  the  passage  between  the  island  and  the  con- 
tinent from  one  to  two  miles  broad,  and  that  the 
nature  of  the  ice  would  not  admit  of  cutting  off  any 
of  the  distance  to  be  travelled  between  the  island 
and  the  northeastern  point  of  land. 

The  snow  on  shore  was  now 'diminishing  from 
day  to  day,  yet  so  slowly  that  it  was  necessary  to 
make  a  mark  on  some  stone,  to  be  assured  that  it 
was  receding.  Ravens  made  their  appearance  and 
the  clouds  seemed  to  indicate  that  the  moisture  of 
the  atmosphere  was  returning. 

Our  friend  Okotook  being  attacked  by  an  inflam- 
mation of  the  lungs,  was  taken  on  board  the  Hecla, 
and  put  under  the  surgeon's  hands.  His  confidence 
in  the  skill  of  this  gentleman  was  soon  shaken  by 
the  pain  caused  by  the  application  of  a  blister. 
It  was  amusing  to  see  him  take  physic  for  the  first 
time  in  his  life.  He  knew  its  taste  was  not  pleas- 
ant, but  this  was  not  all  he  dreaded,  for  before  he 
put  the  cup  to  his  lips  with  one  hand,  he  held 
his  wife  fast  with  the  other,  and  she  held  by  him, 
as  if  they  both  expected  some  explosion,  as  its  im- 
mediate effect ;  nor  did  he  rehnquish  his  grasp  till 
the  taste  left  his  palate.  The  quantity  of  water  he 
drank  was  beyond  conception  ;  the  cabin  fire  scarce- 
ly melting  snow  enough  for  him.  His  wife  showed 
much  affection  and  solicitude  respecting  the  effects 
of  his  dose,  not  being  able  to  comprehend  that  one 
pain  was  to  be  removed  by  inflicting  another. 

Capt.  Lyon  being  desirous  of  having  some  little 
27*= 


318  POLAR    REGIONS. 

clothes  made  as  models  of  the  Esquimaux  costume, 
and  thinking  Iligliuk's  (the  wife  of  Okotook)  presen 
leisure  afforded  her  a  good  opportunity  of  making 
them,  obtained  her  promise  that  she  would  do'  so. 
Okotook  being  now  very  much  better,  and  she  hav- 
ing herself  resumed  her  usual  gaiety  in  consequence, 
the  Captain  pressed  her  to  commence  her  work, 
and  placed  the  skins  before  her,  when  she  said  that 
she  could  not  do  them  here,  as  she  had  no  needles. 
These  being  suppUed  her,  she  now  complained  of 
having  no  tooktoo  e-walloo,  (reindeer  sinew,)  their 
usual  thread.  This  difficulty,  unfortunately  for 
Iligliuk's  credit,  was  as  easily  overcome  as  the 
other ;  and  when  scissors,  pattern-clothes,  and  all 
the  other  requisites  were  laid  before  her,  she  was 
at  length  driven  to  the  excuse,  that  Okotook's  ill- 
ness would  not  permit  her  to  do  it.  Seeing  the 
Captain  half  laughing  at  the  absurdity  of  these  ex- 
cuses, and  half  angry  at  the  selfish  indolence  which 
prompted  them,  she  at  last  flatly  asserted,  that 
Okotook  desired  her  not  to  work,  which,  though 
he  knew  it  to  be  a  falsehood,  the  latter  did  not 
deny.  The  officers  then  supposed  that  some  su- 
perstition might  be  at  the  bottom  of  this ;  but  having, 
a  little  while  after,  by  way  of  experiment,  thrown 
Iligliuk  some  loose  beads  upon  the  table,  she  eager- 
ly employed  herself  for  half  an  hour  in  stringing 
them,  that  not  one  might  be  lost;  which  proved, 
that  where  her  own  gratification  or  interest  was 
concerned,  Okotook's  illness  was  not  suffered  to 
interfere.  This  anecdote  shows,  in  a  strong  light, 
that  deep-rooted  selfishness,  common  to  this  peo- 


POLAR  REGIONS.  319 

pie.  The  fact  was,  that  she  did  not  feel  inclined 
so  far  to  exert  herself  as  to  comply  with  Capt. 
Lyon's  request ;  and  the  slight  degree  of  gratitude 
and  proper  feehng,  which  was  requisite  to  overcome 
that  disinclination,  was  altogether  wanting. 

Two  Esquimaux  women,  coming  on  board,  were 
invited  into  the  cabin.  It  was  observed  that  it  re- 
quired unusual  sohcitation  to  make  them  go  near 
Okotook,  or  even  to  the  side  of  the  cabin  where  he 
was.  They  however  talked  freely  with  him  from 
the  other  side,  while  he  lay  concealed  behind  a 
screen.  After  they  were  gone,  it  was  found  that 
this  unfortunate  though  well-intended  visit  had  oc- 
casioned great  distress  to  the  patient,  who  talked 
incessantly  about  having  been  seen  by  one  of  them, 
which,  it  seems,  ought  not  to  have  happened.  We 
know  not  what  misfortune  he  apprehended  in  con- 
sequence, but  he  spoke  of  it  with  agony,  and  was 
evidently  agitated  by  some  powerful  though  absurd 
superstition  respecting  the  circumstance ;  but  the 
next  day  he  entirely  recovered  his  gaiety. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

Captain  Lyon's  Journey. — Departure  of  the  Esquimaux. — Progress  of  the 
Season. — The  Ships  put  to  Sea. — Description  of  Winter  Island. — Ca- 
taract on  Barrow's  River. — Walrusses  killed. — The  Ships  reach  Igloo- 
lic. — Igloolic  and  other  Islands. — Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla. 

The  caulking  of  the  bows  being  now  completed, 
the  ships  were  released  from  the  ice  by  sawing 


320  POLAR   REGIONS. 

round  them ;  an  operation  which  made  them  rise  in 
the  water  six  inches  and  a  half,  in  consequence  of 
the  buoyancy  occasioned  by  the  winter's  expendi- 
ture. 

An  increased  extent  of  open  water  appearing  in 
the  offing,  Capt.  Lyon  again  departed,  accompanied 
by  nine  persons,  with  a  tent,  fuel,  and  provisions  for 
twenty  days.  Each  individual  was  furnished  with 
a  light  sledge,  to  draw  his  provision  and  baggage, 
which  might  weigh  about  an  hundred  pounds.  Their 
instructions  were,  after  gaining  the  continent  to 
proceed  along  the  coast  and  examine  it,  and  to 
make  observations  respecting  the  tides  and  the 
natural  productions  of  the  country. 

He  set  out  on  the  8th  of  May,  and  rested  on  the 
9th  at  a  low,  rocky  point,  which  he  called  Point 
Belford.  Proceeding  northward,  he  had  given  the 
following  names  successively  to  different  parts  of 
the  coast,  viz.  Blake's  Bay,  Adderly's  Bluff,  Palmer 
Bay,  Point  EHzabeth,  and  Cape  William  ;  when, 
finding  his  provision  and  fuel  half  expended,  he 
judged  it  prudent  to  return. 

On  the  23d,  the  Esquimaux,  who  had  long,  as  they 
said,  been  about  to  depart,  set  off  in  earnest,  with 
all  their  goods  and  chattels,  including  a  parting  gift 
from  Capt.  Parry.  He  had  scarcely  made  these 
presents,  when  he  had  reason  to  fear  that  the  sud- 
den influx  of  wealth  would  produce  fatal  effects, 
especially  upon  the  women,  whose  joy  threw  them 
into  immoderate  fits  of  laughter,  which  were  fol- 
lowed by  floods  of  tears.  The  men  also  were 
thankful,  though  less  noisy  in  their  acknowledg- 
ments.    When  all  was  ready,  they  started.     Flocks 


POLAR    REGIONS.  321 

of  birds   now  began   to   give  token   of  returning 
summer,  and,  on  the  25th,  some  Esquimaux,  who 
came  from  an  encampment  to  the  westward,  re- 
ported having  seen  a  great  many  reindeer.     Yet 
at  the  close  of  May  it  was  matter  of  general  regret 
that  there  was  little  prospect  of  the  departure  of 
the  ice,  and  that  few  indications  of  a  thaw  had  been 
observed.      The  navigators  could  not  fail  to  re- 
member that  at  Melville  Island,  though  so   much 
farther  north,  the  season  had,  on  the  same  day  two 
years  before,  advanced  full  as  far  as  now  at  Winter 
Island.      The  parts  of  the  land  which  were  most 
bare  were  the  smooth,  round  tops  of  the  hills,  on 
some  of  which  were  litde  pools  of  water.     There 
were  also,  on  the  low  lands,  a  few  dark,  uncovered 
patches,  looking,  in  the  snow,  like  islets  in  the  sea. 
Vegetation  seemed  striving  to  commence,   and    a 
few  tufts  of  saxifrage  oppositifolia,  when  closely- 
examined,  discovered  some  signs  of  life.      Such 
was  the  state  of  things  on  shore :  upon  the  ice  ap- 
pearances were  as  unpromising.      Except  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  ships,  where  from  incessant 
trampling,  and  the  deposit  of  various  stores  upon 
the  ice,   some  heat  had  been  absorbed  artificially^ 
there  was  no  perceptible  sign  of  dissolution  on  the 
upper  surface,  where  six  or  seven  inches  of  snow 
yet  remained  on  every  part.    In  these  circumstances,, 
Capt.  Parry  resolved  to  try  what  could  be  done  to 
release  the  ships  by  cutting  and  sawing.     Arrange-* 
ments  were,  therefore,  made  for  getting  everything 
on  board,  and  for  commencing  this  laborious  work. 
The  operation  began  on  the  3d  of  June,  and  waa 


322  POLAR    REGIONS. 

completed  in  sixteen  days,  by  severe  and  perseve- 
ring labor.  In  the  mean  while,  Nature  seemed  un- 
willing to  lend  our  mariners  any  aid :  the  dissolu- 
tion of  the  ice  was  so  slow  as  scarcely  to  be  per- 
ceptible. However,  it  was  so  weakened  by  the 
cut  made,  that  the  first  pressure  from  without  ef- 
fected a  rupture,  so  that  a  favorable  breeze  only 
was  needed  to  enable  the  ships  to  put  to  sea.  On 
the  2d  of  July,  the  wind,  for  the  first  time  became 
fair,  and  the  ships  sailed. 

Winter  Island  is  ten  miles  and  a  half  in  length, 
from  N.  W.  by  N.  to  S.  E.  by  S.,  and  its  average 
breadth  from  eight  to  ten  miles.  It  is  what  sea- 
men call  rather  low  land ;  the  height  of  the  S.  E. 
point,  which  was  named  Cape  Fisher,  out  of  re- 
spect to  the  chaplain  and  astronomer,  being  seven- 
tysix  feet,  and  none  of  the  hills  above  three  times 
that  height.  The  outline  of  the  land  is  smooth, 
and  in  the  summer,  when  free  from  snow,  presents 
a  brown  appearance.  Several  miles  of  the  north- 
west end  of  the  island  are  so  low  and  level,  that, 
when  the  snow  lay  thick  upon  it,  our  travellers 
could  only  distinguish  it  from  the  sea  by  the  absence 
of  hummocks  of  ice. 

The  basis  of  the  island  is  gneiss  rock,  much  of 
which  is  of  a  grey  color,  but  in  many  places  also 
the  feldspar  is  so  predominant  as  to  give  a  bright  and 
red  appearance  to  the  rocks,  especially  about  Cape 
Fisher,  where  also  some  broad  veins  of  quartz  are 
seen  intersecting  the  gneiss ;  and  both  this  and  the 
feldspar  are  very  commonly  accompanied  by  a 
green  substance,  which  appeared  to  be  pistacite,  and 


POLAR    REGIONS.  323 

which   usually   occurs    as  a  thin  lamina  adhering 
strongly  to  the  others.     In  many  specimens  these 
three  are  united,  the  feldspar  and  quartz  displaying 
tolerably  perfect  crystals.     In  some  of  the  gneiss 
small  red  garnets  are  abundant,  as  also  in  mica- 
slate.     In  lumps  of  granite,  which  are  found  de- 
tached upon  the  surface,  the  mica  sometimes  oc- 
curs in  white  plates,  and  in  other  specimens  is  of  a 
dirty  brown  color.     There  are  several  varieties  of 
mica-slate,  and  some  of  these  have  a  brilliant  me- 
taUic  appearance,  like  silver;  those  which  are  most 
so,  crumble  very  easily  to  pieces.     The  most  com- 
mon stone  next  to  those  already  mentioned  is  lime, 
which  is  principally  schistose,  and  of  a  white  color. 
Many  pieces  of  this  substance,  on  being  broken, 
present  impressions  of  fossil-shells,  and  some  have 
also  brown  waved  lines  running  quite  through  them. 
Nodules  of  flint  occur  in  some  masses  of  lime,  but 
they  are  not  common.     Iron  pyrites  is   found  in 
large  lumps  of  black  stone,  tinged  externally  with 
the  oxyde  of  iron :  it  is  here  and  there  met  with  in 
small  perfect  cubes. 

Sailing  northward  along  the  coast,  the  ships  were 
soon  stopped  by  the  ice.  While  they  remained 
stationary,  a  party  of  natives  were  discovered  on 
shore,  who  proved  to  be  their  neighbours  of  Winter 
Island.  They  were  cordially  greeted  by  the  oflicers 
and  seamen  as  old  acquaintances,  and  loaded  with 
presents.  On  leaving  the  ships,  one  of  them  sent 
Capt.  Parry  a  piece  of  seal  skin  as  a  present,  with- 
out the  least  prospect  or  expectation  of  a  return. 
We  mention  this  trifling  incident,  merely  because  it 


324  POLAR    REGIONS. 

was  the  first  and  only  undeniable  proof  of  gratitude 
observed  among  these  people. 

Slowly  and  painfully  our  navigators  pursued  their 
course  northward,  always  with  difficulty  and  often 
with  great  danger.  On  the  12th  of  the  month,  they 
discovered  the  mouth  of  a  considerable  river,  and 
Capt.  Parry  went  on  shore  to  examine  it.  The 
water  was  fresh,  and  the  stream  varied  in  breadth 
from  four  hundred  yards  to  the  third  of  a  mile. 
After  ascending  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  Captain  heard 
the  roar  of  a  waterfall.  At  the  mouth,  the  banks  of 
the  river  were  about  two  hundred  feet  high,  but  here 
they  rose  much  higher,  and  the  water  ran  on  a  more 
elevated  level.  As  Capt.  Parry  proceeded  inland,  he 
found  the  stream  rushing  with  great  fury  over  two 
small  cataracts.  Then  turning  a  right  angle  of  the 
river,  he  perceived  a  greater  spray,  occasioned  by  a 
very  magnificent  fall.  Where  the  stream  begins  its 
descent  it  is  contracted  to  the  breadth  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet,  the  channel  being  worn  in  a 
solid  bed  of  gneiss  rock.  After  falling  about  fifteen 
feet,  at  an  angle  of  thirty  degrees,  the  river  is  again 
narrowed  to  forty  yards,  and,  as  if  collecting  its 
strength  for  a  great  effort,  is  precipitated  ninety  feet, 
in  one  unbroken  mass.  A  cloud  of  spray  rises  from 
the  cataract,  surmounted  by  an  uncommonly  vivid 
rainbow.  The  basin  which  receives  the  fall  is  cir- 
cular and  about  four  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
rather  wider  than  the  river  immediately  below. 
Above  the  cataract,  the  stream  winds  in  the  most 
romantic  manner  imaginable  among  the  hills,  with 
a  smooth  and  unruflOied  surface.     To  this  beautiful 


POLAR    REGIONS.  325 

water-course  Capt.  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Barrow's 
River.  Its  entrance  is  in  latitude  Ql""  18'  05",  and 
longitude  Sr  25'  20". 

The  next    day  large   herds  of   walrusses   were 
seen  upon  the  drift  ice,  and  the  boats  were  sent  to 
kill  some  for  the  sake  of  the  oil.     The  sportsmen 
found  them  lying  huddled  together,  piled  upon  one 
another.     They  waited  quietly  to  be  shot,  and  were 
not  greatly  alarmed  even  after  one  or  two  volleys. 
They  suffered  the  people  to  debark  on  the  ice  near 
them,  but  on  their  near  approach  displayed  a  some- 
what pugnacious  purpose.     After  they  got  into  the 
water   three  were  struck  with  harpoons  and  kill- 
ed.     When  first  wounded,  they  were  quite  furi- 
ous:  one  of  them  resolutely  attacked  Capt.  Lyon's 
boat,  and  injured  it  with  his  tusks.     Those  which 
remained  uninjured  surrounded  the  wounded  ani- 
mals, and  struck  them  with  their  tusks ;  whether  to 
assist  their  escape,  or  with  a  hostile  intention,  can- 
not be  ascertained.      Two  of  the    animals  killed 
were  females,  and  one  weighed  over  fifteen  hundred 
pounds,  which  was  not  considered  an  uncommon 
bulk.      The  strength  of  the  walrus  is  very  great. 
One  of  them  being  touched  with  an  oar,  seized  it 
with   his  flippers,  and  snapped  it  with  the  utmost 
ease.     Many   of  these   animals   had  young  ones, 
which,  when  assailed,   they  carried  off,  either  be- 
tween their  flippers  or  on  their  backs.     They  were 
most   easily  killed   with   inusket-balls,   even  after 
being  struck  with  the  harpoon,  as  their  skins  are  so 
tough  as  to  resist  a  whaling  lance. 

On   the    15th,   the   ships   reached  Igloolik,   for 
28 


326  POLAR  REGIONS. 

the  situation  of  which  we  refer  our  readers  to  the 
map.  Here  they  found  a  new  band  of  Esquimaux, 
who  proved  to  be  the  acquaintances  and  rela- 
tives of  those  of  Winter  Island.  These  people 
dwelt  not  in  snow  huts,  but  in  tents,  made  of  the 
skins  of  the  walrus  and  seal,  the  former  shaved 
thin  enough  to  allow  the  transmission  of  light. 
They  were  clumsily  made,  and  supported  by  a  kind 
of  tent-pole,  constructed  by  tying  bones  or  deer's 
horns  together.  The  edges  of  the  tents  were  kept 
down  by  placing  stones  upon  them.  To  keep  the 
whole  fabric  erect,  a  thong  was  extended  from  the 
top  to  a  large  stone  at  the  distance  of  a  few  yards. 
These  abiding  places  had  little  appearance  of  af- 
fording comfort  or  convenience. 

From   these   people  Capt.   Parry   learned   that 
he  had  unquestionably  been  coasting  the  continent. 
He  then  determined  to  attempt  to  penetrate  a  large 
inlet,  stretching  westward  from  Igloolik,  which,  at 
the  time  of  his  arrival,  was  closed  by  a  fixed  bar- 
rier of  ice,  and  which  he  named  The  Strait  of  the 
Fury  and  Hecla.     We  shall  not  follow  the  naviga- 
tors in  their  arduous   but  unsuccessful  efforts  to 
penetrate  w^estward  at  this  point,  as  we  have  al- 
ready allotted  more  space  to  their  adventures  than 
consists  with  our  intended  limits.     Suffice  it  to  say, 
that  after  persevering  in  the  attempt  till  the  30th 
of  September,  they  found  themselves  as  far  from 
the  attainment  of  their  object  as  at  first.     The  cold 
weather  then  setting  in,  they  were  compelled  to  lay 
the  ships  up  at  Igloolik. 

One  important  point  was  setded,  however,  be- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  327 

yond  the  possibility  of  doubt.  Finding  his  re- 
searches ineffectual  by  water,  Capt.  Parry  under- 
took to  explore  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla 
by  land.  He  found  it  continuous,  and  pursued  his 
journey  far  enough  to  see  the  open  sea  beyond, 
thus  proving  the  existence  of  a  passage  at  this 
point,  though  it  was  then,  and  probably  ever  will 
be,  closed  by  an  insurmountable  barrier  of  ice. 
Beside  this  result  of  his  endeavours,  the  position 
of  Cockburn  Island,  and  indeed  of  all  the  lands 
adjacent  to  Igloohk,  wa-s  ascertained,  and  correctly 
laid  down  on  the  map. 

Beside  th-e  Esquimaux  found  at  Igloolik,  our 
friends  had  the  society  of  the  savages  of  Winter 
Island,  who  rejoined  them  shortly  after  their  arrival. 
We  are  sorry  that  we  cannot  relate  the  adventures 
and  observations  of  this  winter,  as  they  are  ex- 
tremely entertaining ;  but  as  they  are  not  important 
in  their  nature,  we  trust  to  be  excused  for  omitting 
them. 

Igloolik  is  a  low  island,  ten  miles  long  and  six 
broad,  and  exhibits  the  same  appearance  of  sterility 
as  the  adjacent  continent^  excepting  in  places  which 
have  been  inhabited  by  the  natives.  There,  the  ac- 
cumulation of  animal  substances  has  produced  a 
luxuriant  vegetation.  In  some  parts  there  are  spots 
several  hundred  yards  in  extent,,  covered  with  bright 
green  moss.  The  whole  land  seems  to  be  composed 
of  innumerable  fragments  of  thin  schistose  lime- 
stone, some  of  which  contain  the  impressions  of  fos-* 
sil  remains,  while  others  present  the  cellular  structure 
usually  found  in  madreporite.     The  interior  is  al- 


328  POLAR  REGIONS. 

most  an  entire  swamp ;  but  there  are  rising  grounds, 
which,  with  the  remains  of  Esquimaux  habitations 
upon  them,  are  excellent  landmarks. 

East  of  Igloolik  is  a  group  of  small  islands  called 
by  Captain  Parry  Calthorpe  Islands.  Like  almost 
all  the  land  in  this  vicinity,  they  are  low,  but  their 
geology  differs  from  that  of  Igloolik,  and  in  every 
respect  resembles  that  of  Winter  Island,  being  com- 
posed of  gneiss.  Two  of  this  group,  however,  are 
high  and  rugged.  From  the  top  of  one  of  these 
there  is  a  good  view  of  the  adjacent  shores. 

The  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla 
is  about  three  miles  wide,  and  is  formed  by  two  pro- 
jecting headlands,  between  which  the   tide   rushes 
with  great  velocity.^    The  south  shore  is  high,  but 
of  gradual  ascent,  perfectly  smooth,  and  composed 
of  beautifully  variegated  sand-stone.     Beyond  the 
entrance  the  land  is  bold  and  mountainous.     Capt. 
Parry,  who   it  will  be  remembered   explored   the 
southern  shore  of  the  strait,  states  the  hills  to  con- 
sist of  grey  gneiss  and  red  granite,  rising,  in  some 
instances,  a  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.     In  some  places  he  saw  slate,  and  in  others 
sand-stone.     He  has  left  no  positive  data,  by  which 
we  may  determine  the  length  of  this  strait ;  but  as 
he  was  rather  more  than  a  day  in   accomplishing 
the  distance  on  foot,  by  a  circuitous  route,  we  may 
conclude  that  it  does  not  exceed  fifteen  or  twenty 
miles.     From  the  point  w^here  his  journey  termi- 
nated he  saw  a  continuous  sea  to  the  westward, 
open   and  unobstructed  save  by  ice  and  by  one 
small  island. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  329 

There  are  several  islands  in  the  Strait  of  the 
Fury  and  Hecla.  On  one  of  these  (Liddon  Island) 
abundance  of  beautifully  veined  clay  iron-stone  was 
found.  The  other  minerals  were  asbestos,  crystals 
of  carbonate  of  lime,  and  a  great  variety  of  sand- 
stone, of  which  the  island  is  formed. 

Amherst  Island  is  flat,  and  the  northern  part  is 
formed  of  black  slate,  with  strong  indications  of  coal. 
This  part  of  the  island  is  utterly  bare  of  vegetation. 
In  a  low  cliff  of  black  and  rugged  slate  there  is  a 
beautiful  and  romantic  grotto.  The  water,  oozing 
through  the  sides  and  roof,  has  formed  the  most  bril- 
liant stalactites,  which  form  a  splendid  contrast  with 
the  shady  part  of  the  ebon  grotto  behind.  The 
other  part  of  the  island  is  of  clay  and  limestone,  on 
which  there  is  a  very  scanty  covering  of  shrivelled 
grass  and  moss. 

The  incidents  of  the  winter  spent  at  Igloolik  re- 
late almost  exclusively  to  the  intercourse  of  the 
navigators  with  the  Esquimaux.  We  propose  to 
give  the  principal  results  of  their  observations,  in  a 
separate  chapter. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Physical  Character  of  the  Esquimaux. — Costume. — Female  Avocations. — 
Sledges,  Dogs,  Weapons,  &c. — Manner  of  killing  Deer  and  Musk 
Oxen. 

The  Esquimaux  seen  during  this  voyage  com- 
prise nearly  the  whole  aboriginal  population  of  the 
northeast  coast  of  America,  from  Wager  River  to 

28* 


330  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Igloolik.     They  are  a  small  race,  much  beneath  the 
physical  standard  of  Europeans.     The  tallest  man 
seen  by  our  friends  was  five  feet  nine  inches  and 
three  quarters  in  height,  and  the  tallest  woman  was 
five  feet  six  inches,  but  the  average  height  was  be- 
low five  feet.     They  are  deficient  in  muscular  pow- 
er,   as  was  proved  by  trials  of  strength  with  the 
seamen  of  the  expedition.     Even  in  the  young  and 
strong  men  the  muscles  are  not  prominent,  but  are 
smoothly  covered,  like  the  limbs  of  women.      There 
is, besides,  a  contradiction  between  the  different  parts 
of  the  most  robust  of  them  ;  which  is,  that  however 
well  defined  the  chest  may  be,  the  neck  is  small, 
weak,  and  sometimes  shrivelled.     They  are  active 
wrestlers  among  themselves,  yet  they  can  neither 
run  nor  jump,  and  in  walking  they  turn  their  toes 
inward,  like  some  other  savage  tribes.     Very  few 
of  the  men  are  inchned  to  corpulence,  though  dis- 
tended abdomen  is  universal  in  the   tribe.      The 
women  are,  sometimes,  obese,  but  this  is  probably 
owing  to  their  sedentary  habits.     The  feet  of  both 
sexes  are  small  and  well  formed. 

The  necks  and  shoulders  of  the  young  women 
are  generally  w^ell  proportioned,  though  large.  They 
cannot  be  said  to  walk,  but  rather  to  waddle,  owing 
to  the  enormous  size  of  their  boots,  which  are  the 
receptacles  of  their  children  and  of  all  moveables, 
and  preclude  the  possibility  of  ever  learning  to  run 
or  jump.  This  remark,  indeed,  appHes  to  both 
sexes. 

Both  sexes  dress  nearly  alike,  in  the  manner  al- 
ready described,  and  probably  no  other  would  be 


POLAR   REGIONS.  331 

as  well  adapted  to  their  mode  of  life.  We  must 
remark,  however,  that  in  summer  they  commonly 
wear  coats,  boots  and  breeches  of  duck  skins,  with 
the  feathers  inward.  Ornaments,  as  for  instance, 
strings  of  foxes'  teeth  or  plaits  of  hair,  are  worn 
exclusively  by  the  men.  The  breeches  of  the  men 
are  often  made  of  pieces  of  different  colors ;  those 
of  the  fair  sex  are  invariably  plain.  Children,  till 
they  are  two  or  three  years  old,  wear  no  clothing 
whatever,  but  lie  naked  in  the  hoods  of  their  mo- 
thers. At  last  they  are  stuffed  into  a  dress  of  fawn's 
skin,  with  the  jacket  and  breeches  of  one  piece, 
the  back  part  of  which  is  left  open,  but  a  string  or 
two  makes  all  tight  again.  ^ 

The  boots  of  the  soft  sex  are  the  most  prepos- 
terous part  of  their  equipment,  being  of  such  im- 
mense size  as  to  resemble  leathern  sacks.  They 
give  a  deformed  as  well  as  ludicrous  appearance  to 
the  whole  figure.  The  bulky  part  is  at  the  knee, 
while  the  upper  end  terminates  in  a  pointed  flap, 
which  covers  the  front  of  the  leg,  and  is  fastened 
with  a  button  to  the  waistband  of  the  inexpressibles. 

While  speaking  of  the  costume  of  the  Esquimaux, 
we  must  not  omit  their  manner  of  dressing  the  hair. 
The  men  cut  it  square  across  the  forehead,  and 
leave  the  side-locks  to  grow.  Those  who  suffer  it 
to  grow  all  over  the  head,  tie  the  tresses  up  in  a 
bunch,  which  gives  them  a  very  singular  appear- 
ance ;  but  most  of  the  young  men  clip  the  crown 
quite  close.  The  women  divide  their  very  long, 
black  locks  neatly  on  the  top,  and  arrange  them  in 
two   mighty  pigtails,  which  hang  down  on  either 


332  POLAR    REGIONS. 

side,  each  having  a  piece  of  bone  for  a  stifFener. 
Round  this,  the  hair  is  bound  by  a  sort  of  ribbon  of 
skin  with  the  hair  on,  so  as  to  form  a  pretty  spiral 
pattern,  terminating  in  a  rosette.  In  this,  as  in  many 
other  particulars,  they  differ  from  the  women  of 
Hudson's  Strait. 

The  women,  beside  making  all  the  clothing  of  the 
tribe,  prepare  the  materials,  as  the  men  consider 
their  duty  discharged  when  they  have  killed  the 
animals  whose  skins  are  to  be  dressed.  Delicacy 
will  not  permit  us  to  describe  the  abominably  filthy 
manner  in  which  this  operation  is  performed.  It  is 
also  the  part  of  the  wife  to  repair  her  husband's 
garments,  and  to  dry  them  when  wet.  Indeed  these 
occupations  fall  to  the  women  in  almost  all  barba- 
rous communities.  Cookery  also  is  performed  by 
the  women.  Washing  is  out  of  the  question,  as  the 
Esquimaux  think  it  entirely  superfluous. 

One  of  the  most  primitive  of  their  contrivances 
is  their  method  of  striking  fire.  It  is  done  by  striking 
together  two  pieces  of  iron  pyrites :  the  sparks  are 
received  in  a  bag  of  dry  moss.  Another  way  is,  by 
the  friction  of  two  pieces  of  wood ;  but  this  is  seldom 
practised. 

We  have  already  spoken  of  the  canoes  of  the 
Esquimaux.  The  article  of  next  importance  is  the 
sledge.  He  who  has  a  canoe  and  a  sledge  is  con- 
sidered a  man  of  property.  To  describe  this  arti- 
cle is  impossible,  as  there  are  no  two  alike,  and 
they  differ  both  in  form  and  material.  The  best 
are  made  of  the  jaw-bones  of  the  whale,  sawed  into 
slips  two  inches  thick  and  from  six  inches  to  a  foot 


POLAR    REGIONS.  333 

deep.  These  are  the  runners ;  the  side  pieces  are 
connected  by  means  of  bones,  pieces  of  wood,  or 
deer's  horns,  fastened  across,  at  intervals  of  about 
two  inches,  and  yield  to  any  considerable  strain. 
The  general  breadth  of  the  upper  part  of  a  sledge 
is  about  twenty  inches  ;  but  the  runners  lean  in- 
ward, and  therefore  it  is  greater  at  the  bottom. 
The  length  of  bone  sledges  is  from  four  feet  to 
fourteen.  The  skin  of  the  walrus,  when  hard 
frozen,  is  often  used  for  runners,  being  as  thick  as 
a  board,  and  ten  times  stronger.  Sometimes  the 
dogs  are  harnessed  to  a  rough  piece  of  walrus 
hide,  or  a  cake  of  ice,  hollowed  like  a  howl,  which 
serves  very  well  for  a  time* 

The  dogs  by  which  the  sledges  are  drawn  are 
much  like  the  English  shepherd's  dogs,  but  more 
muscular  and  broad  chested,  owing  to  their  habits 
of  hard  labor.  The  ears  are  sharp  and  erect,  and 
the  whole  aspect  is  savage.  The  hair  is  very  long, 
and  in  winter  a  warm  coat  of  fur  is  found  under  it. 
These  animals  are  not  only  useful  for  draught,  but 
assist  the  Esquimaux  to  overcome  his  most  formi- 
dable enemy,  the  polar  bear. 

An  Esquimaux,  with  three  or  four  dogs,  will  not 
hesitate  to  attack  a  bear.  The  dogs  overtake  and 
keep  the  animal  in  check  till  their  master  comes 
up.  When  the  hunter  arrives,  he  spears  the  bear 
from  a  distance,  if  he  can  find  a  piece  of  ice  to 
which  he  may  fasten  the  line.  If  no  such  conveni- 
ence is  at  hand,  he  darts  the  unencumbered  spear 
behind  the  bear's  shoulder,  and  then  trusts  to  the 
spirit  of  his  dogs  and  his  own  activity.     Springing 


334  POLAR    REGIONS. 

from  side  to  side,  he  avoids  the  wounded  animal. 
If  the  lance  drops  from  the  wound,  it  is  again 
thrown;  but  if  it  sticks  fast,  the  dogs  attack  the  bear's 
legs,  while  the  man  rushes  on  and  despatches  him 
with  his  knife* 

They  have  four  kinds  of  spears,  one  of  which  is 
large  and  strong,  with  an  ivory  point,  to  despatch 
large  animals.  A  lighter  kind,  used  to  take  seals, 
has  a  loose  head,  which  is  tied  to  a  bladder  with  a 
line.  When  this  is  struck  into  a  seal,  it  is  instantly 
liberated  from  the  handle,  and  the  inflated  bladder 
serves  to  show  the  course  of  the  animal,  as  well  as 
to  impede  his  progress.  Another  similar  spear  has 
no  appendages.  The  fourth  and  last  is  used  to 
strike  birds,  young  animals,  or  fishes.  It  has  a 
double  fork  at  the  extremity,  and  there  are  three 
other  barbed  ones  at  about  half  its  length,  diverging 
from  the  shaft  in  different  directions,  so  that  if  the 
end  fork  should  miss,  some  of  the  centre  ones  may 
take  effect. 

Another  curious  contrivance  to  catch  seals  is  a 
slender  rod  of  ivory,  a  foot  long,  and  as  thick  as  a  fine 
knitting-needle.  Its  purpose  is  to  warn  the  hunt- 
er, who  watches  a  seal  hole,  of  the  approach  of  his 
prey,  so  that  he  may  strike  without  seeing  or  being 
seen.  At  the  lower  extremity  is  a  small  knob,  hke 
the  head  of  a  pin ;  at  the  upper,  is  a  string  by  which 
it  is  attached  to  the  ice.  The  animal,  in  rising, 
does  not  perceive  so  small  an  object,  but  pushes  it 
upward  with  his  nose,  when  the  hunter  perceiving 
it  in  motion,  strikes  down,  and  secures  his  prize. 

The  same  want  of  wood  which  causes  sledges  to 


POLAR  REGIONS.  335 

be  constructed  of  bone  compels  the  Esquimaux  to 
make  their  weapons  of  the  same  material.  The 
horn  of  the  musk-ox,  thinned  horns  of  deer,  and 
other  bony  substances  are  converted  into  bows,  of 
an  infinite  variety  of  patterns.  Three  or  four  bones 
or  pieces  of  wood  are  frequently  put  together  in 
one  bow,  the  strength  of  which  hes  in  a  collection 
of  plaited  sinews,  which  run  along  the  back  of  the 
implement.  Being  quite  tight,  and  very  elastic, 
they  cause  the  weapon,  when  unstrung,  to  bend 
the  wrong  way ;  when  bent,  their  united  strength 
is  astonishing.  The  general  length  of  these  bows 
is  about  three  feet  and  a  half.  The  arrows  are 
short,  and  commonly  of  bone,  with  a  stone  head. 

The  Esquimaux  show  no  small  ingenuity  in  their 
manner  of  killing  deer.  When  the  animal  is  fee  ding 
on  level  ground,  the  hunter  makes  no  attempt  to 
approach  ;  but  if  rocks  be  near,  he  conceals  himself 
behind  them,  and  skilfully  imitates  the  cry  of  his 
prey.  Sometimes,  for  more  complete  decep.tion, 
he  draws  his  deer- skin  coat  and  hood  over  his  head, 
in  order  to  resemble  the  creature  he  is  approaching. 
He  seldom  shoots  till  the  deer  is  within  ten  or  twelve 
paces,  and  thus,  with  the  aid  of  extreme  patience, 
he  renders  his  paltry  weapons  as  effective  as  the  fire- 
arms of  white  men.  The  musk-ox  is  killed  in  near- 
ly the  same  manner,  and  the  Esquimaux  arrow^s 
make  great  havoc  among  the  feathered  race.  Be- 
side the  modes  of  procuring  subsistence  we  have 
described,  there  are  many  others  which  we  have  not 
room  to  notice. 


336  POLAR  REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Travelling. — Marriages.— Treatment  of  Children.— Theology.— Honesty.— 
Beggary. — Ingratitude.— Hospitality.— Lying  and  Slander.— Courage.— 
The  Ships  return  to  England. 

The  Esquimaux  have  the  same  rambling  propen- 
sity which  distinguishes  the  more  southern  Indians, 
with  this  difference,  that  they  prefer  the  most  deso- 
late and  inhospitable  countries  to  those  which  are 
covered  with  vegetation.  There  are  no  established 
settlements  along  a  great  extent  of  coast  at  which 
they  may  be  said  to  have  a  fixed  habitation ;  but  there 
are  three  or  four  general  mustering  places,  at  which 
they  assemble  at  certain  periods.  Igloolik  is  one  of 
these.  In  travelling,  they  depend  entirely  on  land- 
marks ;  and  though  they  know  the  cardinal  points, 
and  are  acquainted  with  certain  particular  stars,  they 
care  little  for  the  presence  of  the  sun,  or  whether 
the  weather  be  clear  or  otherwise.  The  setting  in 
of  winter  is  their  principal  time  of  journeying,  as 
their  sledges  then  move  easily  on  the  snow. 

It  is  very  common  with  the  Esquimaux  to  betroth 
their  children  from  infancy;  and  in  consequence  of 
this  compact,  the  parties  live  together  as  man  and 
wife  as  soon  as  they  are  inclined.  Sometimes  they 
select  wives  for  themselves,  and  in  such  cases  little 
regard  is  paid  to  personal  beauty.  Young  men 
prefer  young  women ;  but  the  elderly  content  them- 
selves with  widows,  as  more  experienced,  and  bet- 
ter able  to  provide  for  mutual  comfort.     There  is 


POLAR   REGIONS.  337 

no  marriage  ceremony,  and  the  connexion  is  diwSsolv- 
ed  at  pleasure.  Bigamy  is  common,  but  no  instance 
was  observed  where  a  man  had  more  than  one  wife. 
Divorced  women  are  common,  but  they  soon  marry 
again.  Widows  who  have  friends,  and  enjoy  health, 
fare  as  well  as  married  women ;  but  the  want  of 
either  seals  their  fate,  and  they  are  left  to  starve,  with 
their  children.  Cousins  marry,  but  a  man  never  weds 
two  sisters.  Their  most  extraordinary  connexion 
is  by  adoption,  for  there  are  few  families  which  have 
not  one  or  more  adopted  children,  their  own  being 
at  the  same  time  adopted  by  others.  This  connex- 
ion binds  the  parties  as  firmly  as  the  ties  of  blood ; 
and  an  adopted  son,  if  senior  to  one  by  nature,  in- 
herits the  family  riches  :  this  exchange  of  children 
frequently  takes  place  between  those  related  by 
consanguinity. 

No  people  are  fonder  of  their  children  than  the 
Esquimaux.  The  mothers  carry  them  naked  on 
their  backs,  until  they  are  good  walkers,  and  employ 
their  whole  time  in  nursing  and  feeding  them.  The 
fathers  are  constantly  making  toys,  and  giving  them 
all  the  assistance  in  their  power.  They  have  their 
own  way  in  everything,  and  are  never  scolded  or 
corrected.  Yet  this  kindness  is  not  reciprocated  by 
the  children,  when  their  parents  become  unable  to 
support  themselves* 

The  Esquimaux,  like  other  savages,  are  supersti- 
tious. They  have  priests  who  pretend  to  hold  in- 
tercourse with  the  invisible  world,  and  thus  acquire 
a  certain  influence  over  their  countrymen.  Capt. 
Lyon  was  present  at  a  pretended  interview  be- 
2» 


338  POLAR    REGIONS. 

tween  one  of  these  jugglers  and  his  patron  spirit, 
which  took  place  in  the  dark,  and  which  proved 
that  the  priest  was  merely  a  ventriloquist.  It  would 
seem  that  the  Esquimaux  believe  in  a  countless 
multitude  of  spirits,  some  male,  and  some  female. 
Packimna,  one  of  the  latter,  lives  in  a  western  land, 
and  is  the  protectress  of  deer.  There  is  also  a  large 
bear,  who  lives  on  the  ice  at  sea,  where  he  often 
meets  the  priests  and  converses  with  them.  Anoth- 
er, called  Nooliayoo,  is  the  mother,  protectress,  and 
monopolist  of  marine  animals,  which  she  sometimes 
confines  below,  and  so  causes  a  scarcity  in  the  upper 
world.  When  this  is  the  case,  the  priest  pretends 
to  pay  her  a  visit,  in  order  to  obtain  their  release. 

There  are  few  tribes  more  honest  than  the  Es- 
quimaux. They  never  touch  each  others'  property 
without  permission  ;  and  on  board  the  ships  their 
scruples  were  the  same.  Some  few  thefts,  indeed, 
took  place  ;  but  if  it  be  considered  how  great  a 
temptation  so  many  articles,  all  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance to  them,  presented,  such  instances  will 
not  weigh  very  heavily  against  their  general  char- 
acter. Only  three  of  their  whole  number  were 
considered  professed  thieves,  and  they  performed 
their  work  so  clumsily  as  to  be  instantly  detected. 
In  contrast  with  these,  a  great  many  examples  of 
singular  honesty  might  be  adduced,  where  things 
were  dropped  and  supposed  to  be  lost,  and  yet 
were  returned  by  these  poor  savages,  though  they 
might  have  retained  them  without  incurring  sus- 
picion. 

We  wish  we  could  speak  as  favorably  of  them  in 


POLAR   REGIONS.  339 

other  respects.  They  are  envious  to  a  degree 
scarcely  credible.  The  possession  of  an  article  by 
any  individual  is  sure  to  draw  on  him  the  ill  will  of 
him  who  covets  it.  This  vice  naturally  led  to  beg- 
ging, as  our  voyagers  had  constant  occasion  to  re- 
mark. Their  demands  vvere  always  introduced  by  a 
reference  to  favors  conferred  on  some  other ;  and  it 
may  not  be  improper  to  remark  that  the  ladies  are 
the  most  addicted  to  this  practice. 

Gratitude,  we  might  say,  w^ere  it  not  for  one  in- 
stance already  mentioned,  is  absolutely  unknown 
among  them,  by  action,  word,  or  look.  No  service 
rendered,  no  kindness  shown,  no  gifts  bestowed, 
can  awaken  a  thankful  feeling,  and  those  who  re- 
lieve their  distresses  are  ridiculed  as  soon  as  the 
present  want  is  supplied.  Their  parents  receive 
no  attention  in  their  old  age  ;  and  the  very  food  they 
eat  is  bestowed,  not  from  good  feeling,  but  because 
their  hospitality  is  free  to  all.  Indeed,  selfishness 
seems  to  be  their  predominant  principle.  The  hus- 
band cares  not  for  the  wife  in  the  hour  of  sickness  or 
danger,  and  the  wife  is  equally  regardless  of  the  hus- 
band. The  infirm  and  helpless  receive  no  attention, 
but  are  abandoned  by  the  strong  and  active,  as  use- 
less burthens.  Parents  care  so  little  for  their  chil- 
dren as  to  refuse  them  the  rights  of  sepulture,  and 
see  the  dogs  feed  on  their  carcasses  with  the  utmost 
unconcern.  Wo  to  the  invahd  who  has  no  near 
relation :  he  or  she  is  walled  up  in  a  snow  hut,  and 
left  to  perish  without  the  smallest  compunction. 
Children  are  buried  with  their  dead  mothers ;  and 
none  of  these  things  excite  the  shghtest  feeling  of 
remorse. 


^     m 

340  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Their  hospitality  cannot  extend  farther  than  it 
does.  Strangers  are  received  in  the  kindest  man- 
ner, every  want  is  removed,  every  accommodation  is 
suppHed,  and  they  are  thanked  for  their  acceptance. 
Our  voyagers  found  the  women  especially  solicitous 
for  their  comfort,  and  were  fully  convinced,  by  the 
manners  of  their  hosts,  that  they  were  welcome. 
They  invariably  met  with  the  same  treatment,  and 
their  property  was  scrupulously  respected  ;  and  all 
this  proceeded  from  motives  of  pure  hospitality,  for 
the  same  persons  wearied  them  by  importunate 
beggary  on  all  other  occasions.  As  a  proof  of  this, 
if,  on  the  next  day,  they  asked  for  the  smallest  ar- 
ticle, even  a  bit  of  moss,  immediate  payment  was 
demanded. 

There  is  another  dark  shade  in  the  character  of 
these  people  :  their  envious  disposition  continually 
leads  them  into  falsehood.  Th^ir  lies,  however, 
are  confined  to  vihfication  of  each  other  and  false 
accusations  of  theft  or  other  misconduct.  It  is  but 
rarely  that  they  speak  well  of  one  another,  and  as 
rarely  that  they  persist  in  an  untruth.  In  this  par- 
ticular also  the  ladies  are  the^most  culpable,  as  well 
as  in  quarrelling  and  beggary. 

The  men  who  dare  to  engage  the  terrific  polar 
bear  in  single  combat,  and  who  trust  themselves  at 
sea  in  stormy  weather  on  small  cakes  of  drift  ice, 
cannot  be  called  cowardly.  There  is  an  expression 
of  confidence,  courage,  and  independence  pecuhar 
to  the  Esquimaux,  which  is  highly  str-iking.  The 
firm  step,  erect  person,  and  fearless  eye,  all  denote 
a  person  accustomed  to  depend  on  his  own  resour- 


POLAR  REGIONS.  341 

ces,  and  certain  of  their  efficacy.  Their  habit  of 
venturing  to  sea  on  pieces  of  loose  ice,  which  by  a 
change  of  wind  or  sudden  rupture,  might  carry 
them  to  sea,  confirms  them  in  their  insensibiUty  to 
danger ;  and  this  very  indifference  has  been  the 
death  of  many  a  man,  who  has  left  his  hut  in  search 
of  subsistence,  to  return  no  more.  Their  courage 
is,  however,  in  no  shape  alhed  to  ferocity.  They 
have  not  much  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness,  but 
their  equanimity  is  admirable.  In  pain,  cold,  star- 
vation, disappointment,  or  when  roughly  treated, 
their  good-humor  is  not  disturbed.  Few  are  ever 
sulky ;  or  if  they  are,  it  is  for  a  short  time  only.  If 
they  are  angry  at  neglect  or  punishment,  in  a  few 
minutes  their  gaiety  returns,  and  they  are  as  well 
disposed  towards  the  person  who  affronted  them  as 
before.  Quarrels  seldom  occur  among  them,  and 
rarely,  if  ever,  proceed  to  blows ;  indeed  the  little 
instances  of  spite  before  mentioned  are  almost  the 
only  disagreements  they  have.  The  passion  of  re- 
venge is  unheard  of  among  them,  and  our  voyagers 
heard  of  no  instance  of  murder  or  warfare,  or  of 
any  dislike  to  particular  persons  being  transmitted 
from  father  to  son.  When  they  were  informed  of 
the  bloodthirsty  disposition  of  the  more  southern 
Indians,  and  when  instances  of  their  ferocity  were 
related  to  them,  they  expressed  the  utmost  horror. 

^  *  ^  TT  ^  •??  "IF  Tr 

We  must  here  conclude  our  account  of  the  Es- 
quimaux, and  of  the  voyage  by  which  this  know- 
ledge of  them  was  obtained. 

On  the  9th  of  August  the  ships  ran  out  of  their 
29* 


^: 


342  POLAR    REGIONS. 

harbour,  where  they  had  been  detained  three  hun- 
dred and  nineteen  days.  They  were  so  embarrass- 
ed by  the  ice,  that  htde  use  could  be  made  of  their 
sails ;  nevertheless,  by  the  30th  of  the  month  they 
passed  Winter  Island,  having  been  carried  three  de- 
grees by  the  drift  in  which  they  were  beset.  On 
the  9th  of  October,  they  made  the  Orkney  Islands, 
and  on  the  10th  reached  Lerwick  in  Shetland,  where 
they  were  received  with  many  congratulations  on 
their  safe  return. 


CAPTAIN    PARRY'S 
THIRD    VOYAGE   OF   DISCOVERY. 


The  Ships  leave  England,  and  arrive  at  Disko  Island. — The  Ice  crossed. — 
Arrival  at  Lancaster's  Sound. — Port  Bowen. — Aurora  Borealis. — Ani- 
mals.— Farther  Proceedings. — The  Fury  wrecked. — Return  to  Eng- 
land. 

Though  neither  of  the  two  first  voyages  of  Capt. 
Parry  had  been  successful,  the  British  government 
resolved  to  fit  out  a  third  expedition.  Accordingly 
the  Hecla  and  Fury  were  made  ready  for  sea,  the 
latter  under  the  command  of  Capt.  Hoppner,  and 
sailed  from  England  on  the  16th  of  May  eighteen 
hundred  twentyfour.  They  were  to  attempt  the 
northwest  passage  at  Prince  Regent's  Inlet.  They 
crossed  the  Atlantic  without  any  material  adventure, 
and  made  the  bay  of  Lievely  in  Disko  Island  on  the 
5th  of  July.  As  this  place  has  been  described  in 
that  part  of  our  work  which  relates  to  Greenland,  it 
is  unnecessary  to  say  anything  of  it  here. 

Sailing  up  Baffin's  Bay,  on  the  17th  the  ships 
came  to  the  ice,  and  from  this  time  the  obstructions 
from  its  quantity,  magnitude  and  closeness,  were 
such  as  to  keep  the  crews  constantly  employed  in 


344  '      POLAR    REGIONS. 

heaving,  warping  or  sawing  through  it,  yet  with  so 
little  success,  that  at  the  close  of  the  month  they  had 
only  penetrated  seventy  miles  to  the  westward. 
Here  they  encountered  a  hard  gale,  and  sustained 
several  shocks  that  would  have  crushed  any  ship  of 
ordinary  strength.  Not  to  dwell  upon  their  labors 
and  dangers  during  the  eight  wrecks  occupied  in 
crossing  this  formidable  barrier,  they  reached  Lan- 
caster's Sound  on  the  10th  of  September.  The 
entrance  of  the  sound  was,  as  usual,  free  from  ice, 
excepting  here  and  there  a  berg  floating  about  in 
sohtary  grandeur. 

The  w^inds  not  being  favorable,  the  ships  made 
small  progress,  and  on  the  13th  the  crews  had  the 
mortification  to  perceive  the  sea  ahead  covered 
with  ice,  in  attempting  to  penetrate  which  they  were 
soon  immoveably  beset.  Nevertheless,  the  exer- 
tions of  Capt.  Parry  and  his  coadjutors  were  unre- 
mitting. We  have  in  our  account  of  former  voyages 
detailed  the  usual  modes  of  proceeding  in  such 
cases. 

The  officers  landed  at  one  place,  a  litde  east 
of  Admiralty  Inlet.  Here  they  found  the  beach 
covered  with  fragments  of  bituminous  shale,  slate 
and  iron-stone,  interspersed  with  hmestone  gravel. 
Travelling  inland,  the  surface  was  of  secondary 
limestone,  and  there  were  many  indications  of  coal. 
The  vegetation  was,  as  usual  in  those  regions,  very 
scanty. 

With  great  exertion  and  extreme  difficulty  the 
expedition  reached  Port  Bowen  in  Prince  Regent's 
Inlet,  on  the  27th,  where,  by  the  middle  of  October, 


POLAR    REGIONS.  345 

Capt.  Parry  deemed  it  advisable  to  lay  up  the 
ships  for  the  winter.  The  lands  on  each  side  of  this 
spot  run  nearly  east  and  west,  and  rise  from  six  to 
nine  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  with 
deep  and  broad  ravines  intersecting  the  country  in 
every  direction.  Several  journeys  inland  proved 
the  country  to  be  exceedingly  broken  and  rugged ; 
so  much  so  that  the  researches  of  the  explorers 
were  of  necessity  confined  to  a  very  limited  ex- 
tent. The  surface  was  so  completely  buried  in 
snow,  that  little  knowledge  of  its  nature  or  geology 
was  gained.  Traces  of  Esquimaux  were  found  in 
every  direction,  but  those  by  whom  they  had  been 
left  were  nowhere  seen. 

Some  brilliant  displays  of  the  Aurora  Borealis 
were  observed  this  winter,  one  of  which  we  shall 
describe.  About  midnight  on  the  27th  of  January, 
it  broke  out  in  a  single  compact  mass  of  yellow 
light,  appearing  but  a  short  distance  above  the  land.- 
This  light,  notwithstanding  its  general  continuity^ 
sometimes  appeared  to  be  composed  of  numerous 
groups  of  rays,  compressed  laterally,  as  it  were^ 
into  one,  its  limits  to  right  and  left  being  well  de-. 
fined  and  nearly  vertical.  Though  ajwgiya  very 
brilliant,  it  constantly  varied  m  intensity ;  and  this, 
appeared  to  be  produced  by  one  volume  of  light 
overlaying  another,  as  we  see  the  darkness  of 
smoke  increase  when  cloud  rolls  over  cloud.  While 
some  of  the  officers  were  admiring  the  exceeding 
beauty  of  the  phenomenon,  they  were  suddenly  as- 
tonished at  seeing  a  brilliant  ray  shoot  down  from 
the  general  mass  between  them  and  the  laiid^  th^ncQ 
distant  three  thousand  yards* 


346  POLAR   REGIONS. 

The  principal  animals  seen  at  Port  Bowen  were 
bears,  of  which  twelve  were  killed  during  the  win- 
ter. Two  foxes  were  killed,  and  four  more  were 
taken  in  traps.  These  last  lived  for  some  time  on 
board  the  Fury.  They  were  pure  Avhite  till  May, 
when  they  shed  their  coats,  and  assumed  a  dirty 
chocolate  color  with  brown  spots.  Hares  and  mice 
were  seen,  but  no  deer  or  wolves.  These  animals 
appeared  but  rarely,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of 
the  feathered  creation. 

In  July,  a  canal  was  sawed  in  the  ice,  and  the 
ships  were  towed  to  sea.  Captain  Parry  hoped  to 
sail  over  to  the  western  shore  of  the  inlet,  but  he 
had  only  made  eight  miles  in  the  intended  direction, 
when  he  was  stopped  by  the  ice.  As  no  opening 
appeared  in  that  quarter,  he  determined  to  try  to 
cross  more  to  the  northward.  The  most  he  gained 
was  some  knowledge  of  the  character  of  the  shores. 
A  reference  to  the  map  will  show  the  principal 
positions  ascertained  by  astronomical  observation. 

it  was  observed  that  in  certain  parts  of  Prince 
Kegent's  Inlet  the  water  was  of  a  milky  hue.  The 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  Hasting's  Elwin  Bay,  ex- 
plained this  appearance.  Its  formation  was  of  Ume, 
with  a  narrow  earthy  stratum  of  gypsum,  some  of  it 
of  a  very  pure  white.  A  part  of  the  ro6k  contained 
a  quantity  of  it  in  the  state  of  silenite  in  transparent 
laminae  of  a  large  size. 

On  the  30th  of  July,  the  ships  being  beset  close  to 
the  land,  a  hard  gale  brought  the  ice  close  upon  them. 
The  Hecla  received  no  damage  but  the  breaking  of 
two  or  three  hawsers ;  but  the  Fury  was  forced  on 


POLAR    REGIONS.  347 

shore.  She  was  heaved  off  again,  with  Uttle  injury, 
but  this  was  but  the  commencement  of  her  misfor- 
tunes. On  the  1st  of  July,  she  was  again  nipped, 
and  so  severely  strained  as  to  leak  a  great  deal. 
As  the  tide  fell,  her  stern,  which  was  aground,  was 
lifted  several  feet,  and  the  Hecla  also  remained 
aground.  No  place  was  found  where  the  Fury 
might  be  hove  down  to  repair  the  damage,  as  the 
shore  was  everywhere  lined  with  masses  of  ground- 
ed ice.  The  ships  were  again  made  to  float,  but 
it  was  found,  notwithstanding  incessant  labor  on 
board  the  Fury,  that  four  pumps  constantly  going 
could  hardly  keep  the  water  under.  In  these 
circumstances  the  only  harbour  that  could  be  found 
was  formed  by  three  grounded  masses  of  ice,  with- 
in which  the  water  was  from  three  to  four  fathoms 
deep  at  low  tide. 

On  the  night  of  the  2d,  the  ice  came  in  with 
great  violence,  and  again  forced  the  Fury  on  shore. 
The  strength  and  number  of  the  Hecla's  hawsers 
only  saved  her  from  sharing  the  same  fate.  Seven 
of  these,  of  six  inches  diameter,  and  two  stream 
cables  were  barely  sufficient  to  bear  the  strain.  In 
the  mean  while  the  crew  of  the  Fury  were  com- 
pletely exhausted  by  labor,  and  their  hands  had  be- 
come so  sore  by  the  constant  friction  of  the  ropes 
that  they  could  no  longer  handle  them  without  mit- 
tens. In  this  situation  it  was  determined  to  land 
the  stores  and  provisions  of  the  vessel,  in  order  that 
she  might  undergo  a  complete  repair. 

Accordingly  anchors  were  carried  to  the  beach, 
by  which  the  grounded  icebergs  that  formed  the 


1»t- 

348  .  POLAR   REGIONS. 

harbour  were  secured  in  their  position,  thus  en- 
closing a  space  just  sufficient  to  admit  both  ships. 
In  this  position  a  great  part  of  the  Fury's  stores 
Ws|r  were  landed.     The  injury  was  found  to  be  more 
severe  than  had  at  first  been  supposed ;  indeed,  it 
appeared  that  the  compactness  of  her  fabric  had 
alone  saved  her  from  sinking.      Nevertheless,  no 
exertion  was  spared  to  render  her  sea-worthy  again, 
though  the  daily  pressure  of  the  ice  was  another, 
and  a  very  great  disadvantage.     While  the  opera- 
tions of  heaving  down  and  repairing  were  going  on, 
the  bergs  by  which  the  harbour  was  formed  suffered 
constant  diminution  by  the  washing  of  the  sea,  and 
frequently   changed  their   position,    owing   to  the 
pressure  of  the  external  ice. 

In  spite  of  every  effort,  it  was  found  impossible 
to  save  the  Fury,  and  the  Hecla  was  greatly  endan- 
gered in  the  attempt.  She  was  compelled  to  leave 
the  land  and  drift  about  among  the  ice,  to  avoid 
being  forced  on  shore.  On  returning,  Capt.  Parry 
found  that  the  Fury  had  been  driven  farther  on  the 
beach  than  before,  and  nine  feet  of  water  were  in 
her  hold.  Her  keel  and  bottom  were  more  injured 
than  ever.  The  first  glance  satisfied  Capt.  Parry 
that  the  vessel  could  never  return  to  England.  By 
and  with  the  advice  of  a  council  of  his  officers, 
therefore,  he  decided  to  leave  her  to  her  fate,  and 
as  his  provisions  would  barely  suffice  for  another 
twelvemonth,  to  return  home.  In  pursuance  of  this 
resolution  the  Hecla  reached  Sheerness  on  the 
21st  of  October. 

On  the  eastern  shore  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet  is 


POLAR  REGIONS.  349 

Cape  Kater,  the  most  southern  point  attained  by 
the  ships  in  this  expedition.  It  is  in  latitude  7P 
53'  30",  and  longitude  90°  03'  45".  If  we  add  to 
this  that  the  shores  of  this  strait  are  everywhere 
bold  and  lofty,  and  that  the  ice  in  it  seems  to  be 
perpetuated  from  year  to  year,  we  believe  that  we 
have  communicated  to  our  readers  all  the  informa- 
tion gained  by  this  voyage. 

It  appears,  from  the  discoveries  of  Capt.  Parry, 
almost  beyond  the  possibility  of  a  doubt,  that  there 
are  at  least  three  passages,  by  water,  round  the 
northern  shore  of  America ;  viz.  through  Barrow's 
Strait,  through  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  and  at  the 
Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla.  Whether  they  are 
at  any  time  passable,  future  attempts  only  can  de- 
termine. It  seems  to  us,  however,  that,  even 
though  a  passage  should  be  effected,  these  channels 
can  never  be  rendered  available  for  the  purposes 
of  commerce  or  navigation. 


30 


CAPTAIN  FRANKLIN'S  TRAVELS, 


CHAPTER  I. 


Object  of  Captain  Franklin's  Journey. — His  Instructions. — Captain  Franklin 
arrives  at  Hudson's  Bay. — York  Factory. — Swampy  Crees. — Departure 
from  York  Factory. — Tracking. — Indian  Anecdote. — Steel  River. — Route 
of  the  party  up  Hill  River. — Arrival  at  Lake  Winnipeg. 

The  English  government  having  resolved  to  send 
an  expedition  to  the  northern  shores  of  the  new 
continent,  to  co-operate  with  Capt.  Parry,  and  to 
farther   the  progress   of  discovery.   Captain  John 
Franklin,  of  the  Royal  British  Navy,  was  selected 
as  its  commander.     Doctor  John  Richardson  and 
Midshipmen  George  Back  and  Robert  Hood  were 
ordered  to  join  Capt.  Franklin  in  the  enterprize. 
These  officers  were  to  proceed  through  the  interior 
to  the  Copper  Mine  River  of  Hearne,  and  thence 
to  its  debouchure  into  the  Polar  Sea,  thence  they 
were  to  advance,  along  the  coast,  to  the  eastern 
extremity  of  America.     Arrived  at  this  point,  it  was 
left  to  the  discretion  of  Captain  Franklin,  in  what 
manner,  and  by  what  route  he  should  return.     He 
was  directed  to  ascertain  the  latitude  and  longitude 


POLAR    REGIONS.  351 

of  every  prominent  point  on  the  coast,  to  observe 
the  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle,  and,  in  short, 
to  observe  and  record  everything  that  might  occur, 
which  should  be  interesting  to  science.  That  his 
views  might  find  as  little  obstruction  as  possible, 
instructions  were  sent  to  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  to  furnish  him  with  supplies  and  aid 
his  plans.  In  pursuance  of  these  orders  Capt. 
Franklin  sailed  from  England  on  the  16th.  of  June, 
1819,  and  reached  York  Factory  at  Hudson's  Bay 
on  the  30th  of  August. 

Here  Capt.  Franklin  was  assured  by  Mr  WiUiams, 
governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  of  all  the 
assistance  in  his  power.  The  opinion  of  this  gen- 
tleman and  his  subordinates  was,  that  the  expedi- 
tion should  proceed  by  the  way  uf  Cumberland 
House,  and  through  the  chain  of  trading-posts  to 
Great  Slave  Lake ;  and  a  large  boat  was  selected 
by  them  for  the  journey.  A  crew  was  also  pro- 
vided for  this  vessel. 

York  Factory,  the  principal  depot  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  is,  or  at  that  time  was,  a  group 
of  two-story  buildings,  surrounded  by  a  stockade  on 
the  west  bank  of  Hayes'  River,  about  five  miles 
above  its  mouth,  on  the  marshy  peninsula  which 
separates  Nelson  and  Hayes'  Rivers.  They  were 
disposed  in  an  octagonal  form,  with  an  open  space 
in  the  centre.  The  officers  of  the  company  dwelt 
in  one  part  of  this  square,  and  in  the  other  parts 
were  workshops,  stores  to  contain  merchandize, 
furs,  &:c. 

The  surrounding  country  is  flat  and  swampy,  and 


SS2  POLAR  REGIONS. 

covered  with  willovvs,  poplars,  larch,  spruce,  and 
birch  trees.  The  soil  is  alluvial  clay.  Though  the 
bank  of  the  river  is  here  about  twenty  feet  high,  it 
is  frequently  overflowed  by  the  spring  floods,  and 
large  portions  are  annually  carried  away  by  the 
disruption  of  the  ice,  which,  grounding  in  the  stream, 
have  formed  several  muddy  islands.  These  ob- 
structions render  the  navigation  of  the  river  some- 
what difficult,  but  vessels  of  two  hundred  tons  bur- 
then may  be  brought  through  the  proper  channels 
as  high  as  the  factory. 

Capt.  Frankhn  found  a  few  of  that  band  of  Kinis- 
tenaux  called  Swampy  Crees  encamped  at  York 
Factory.  Their  tents  were  rudely  constructed  by 
tying  twenty  or  thirty  poles  together  at  the  top,  and 
spreading  them  out  at  the  base  so  as  to  form  a 
cone ;  these  were  covered  with  dressed  moose- 
skins.  The  fire  is  placed  in  the  centre,  and  a  hole 
is  left  for  the  escape  of  the  smoke.  The  inmates 
had  a  squalid  look,  and  were  suff'ering  under  the 
combined  afflictions  of  hooping-cough  and  measles; 
but  even  these  miseries  did  not  keep  them  from  an 
excessive  indulgence  in  spirits,  which  they  unhappi- 
ly can  procure  from  the  traders  with  too  much  facili- 
ty ;  and  they  nightly  serenaded  the  officers  with  their 
monotonous  drunken  songs.  Their  sickness  at  this 
time  was  particularly  feltby  the  traders,  this  being  the 
season  of  the  year  when  the  exertion  of  every  hunt- 
er is  required  to  procure  their  winter's  stock  of 
geese,  which  resort  in  immense  flocks  to  the  exten- 
sive flats  in  this  neighbourhood.  These  birds,  dur- 
ing the  summer  retire  far  to  the  north,  and  breed  in 


POLAR  REGIONS.  353 

security ;  but  when  the  approaching  winter  com- 
pels them  to  seek  a  more  southern  chmate,  they 
generally  alight  on  the  marshes  of  this  bay,  and  fat- 
ten there  for  three  weeks  or  a  month,  before  they 
take  their  final  departure  from  the  country.  They 
also  make  a  short  halt  at  the  same  spots  in  their 
progress  northward  in  the  spring.  Their  arrival  is 
welcomed  with  joy,  and  the  goose  hunt  is  one  of  the 
most  plentiful  seasons  of  the  year.  The  ducks 
frequent  the  sw^amps  all  summer. 

While  the  party  remained  at  York  Factory,  the 
weather  -was  unfavorable  for  celestial  observations ; 
but  by  the  aid  of  partial  glimpses  of  sunshine  it  was 
found  that  this  place  is  in  latitude  57^00'  03"  K, 
and  longitude  92°  26'  W.  The  variation  of  the  com- 
pass was  6"  00'  22"  E.  and  the  dip  of  the  needle 
79°  29'  07". 

All  arrangements  being  completed,  on  the  9th  of 
September  the  expedition  started.  The  wind  fail- 
ing w^hen  they  had  attained  six  miles  above  the 
Factory,  they  were  compelled  to  track,  or  tow  the 
boat  up  stream,  which  was  a  laborious  and  difficult 
operation.  The  men  were  obliged  to  walk  along 
the  steep  declivity  of  a  high  bank,  rendered  soft 
and  slippery  by  rain,  and  were  moreover  impeded 
by  fallen  trees,  which  had  slipped  from  the  w^ood 
above,  and  hung  on  the  face  of  the  bank  in  all 
directions.  At  sunset,  having  made  a  progress  of 
six  miles,  the  party  stopped  and  encamped.  Here 
the  river  is  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  from  three 
to  nine  feet  deep.  Its  banks  and  islands  are  allu- 
30* 


354  POLAR    REGIONS. 

vial,  and  well  covered^with  pines,  poplar,  larches, 
and  willows. 

A  large  fire  was  quickly  kindled,  supper  was 
speedily  prepared,  and  as  readily  despatched.  Then, 
covering  themselves  with  buffalo  robes,  the  party 
betook  themselves  to  rest,  and  enjoyed  a  night  of 
sound  repose.  Thus  commenced  their  travels  in 
the  Indian  country. 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  tracking,  with  even 
more  difficulty  than  before.  Sometimes  the  men 
were  obliged  to  pass  under  cliffs  so  steep  that  they 
could  scarcely  obtain  a  footing,  and  not  seldom  over 
spots  so  miry  as  to  be  almost  impassable.  In  the 
course  of  the  day,  they  passed  the  scene  of  a  very 
melancholy  accident.  Some  years  before,  two  fam- 
ilies of  Indians  were  induced  by  the  flatness  of  a 
small  beach  between  the  cliff  and  the  river  to  en- 
camp on  it.  They  retired  to  rest,  not  aware  that 
the  precipice,  detached  from  the  bank,  and  urged 
by  an  accumulation  of  water  in  the  crevice  behind, 
tottered  to  its  base.  It  fell  in  the  night,  and  the 
whole  party  was  buried  in  the  ruins. 

The  next  day  brought  Capt.  Franklin  to  the  end 
of  Hayes'  River,  which  is  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  Shamattawa  and  Steel  Rivers.  Steel  River, 
through  which  the  course  of  the  party  lay,  is  three 
hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  its  banks  are 
more  favorable  for  boating  than  Hayes'  River.  It 
presents  much  beautiful  scenery,  and  winds  through 
a  narrow,  well  wooded  valley. 

On  the  14th,  the  party  arrived  at  the  junction  of 
Fox  and  Hill  Rivers,  which  unite  to  form  the  Steel, 


POLAR   REGIONS.  355 

as  Hayes'  River  is  formed  by  the  Steel  and  Sham- 
attavva.  Soon  after  entering  Hill  River,  our  trav- 
ellers were  overtaken  by  three  boats  belonging  to 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  water  w^as  now 
so  low,  and  the  rapids  so  frequent,  that  their  pro- 
gress was  greatly  retarded  ;  indeed  they  only  made 
six  miles  this  day. 

The  banks  of  Hill  River  are  higher,  and  have  a 
more  broken  outline  than  those  of  either  Hayes'  or 
Steel  Rivers.  In  some  places  the  cliffs,  of  alluvial 
clay,  rise  eighty  or  ninety  feet  above  the  stream, 
and  are  surrounded  by  hills  about  two  hundred 
feet  high. 

'Not  to  enlarge  on  rapids,  and  portages,  and  other 
difficulties  of  navigation,  the  party  arrived  at 
Morgan's  Rocks,  on  the  upper  part  of  Hill  River, 
on  the  19th.  Here  the  banks  of  the  stream,  con- 
sisting of  low,  flat  rocks  with  intermediate  swamps, 
permitted  them  to  obtain  a  prospect  of  the  interior, 
the  surface  of  which  is  broken  by  a  multitude  of. 
conical  hills :  the  highest  of  these  has  given  its 
name  to  the  river,  and  has  an  elevation  of  six  hun- 
dred feet.  From  its  summit  thirtysix  small  lakes 
are  visible. 

Still  ascending,  the  party  came,  on  the  23d,  to 
Swampy  Lake,  the  head  of  Hill  River.  Thence 
they  emerged  into,  and  ascended  Jack  River,  w^hich 
is  but  eight  miles  long.  Then,  after  crossing  two 
portages,  they  entered  Knee  Lake,  so  called  from 
its  shape.  Its  shores  are  low  and  well  wooded, 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  also  flat.  This 
sheet  of  water  is  thickly  studded  with  islands,  one 


356  POLAR    REGIONS. 

of  which  is  entirely  composed  of  magnetic  iron  ore, 
and  affects  the  needle  at  a  considerable  distance. 
On  landing,  the  compass  no  longer  points  to  the 
pole. 

On  the  27th,  the  party  left  Knee  Lake  to  ascend 
Trout  River,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  passed 
three  portages  and  several  rapids.  At  one  of  these 
portages  there  is  a  beautiful  cascade  sixteen  feet 
high,  called  Trout  Fall.  The  second  portage  is 
over  hard  and  sharp  stones,  famous  among  the 
voyagers  for  destroying  moccasins,  and  is  thence 
called  Knife  Portage.  Leaving  Trout  River  they 
crossed  Holey  Lake,  which  is  a  beautiful  piece  of 
water,  embelhshed  with  islets,  and  abounding  in 
trout,  which  here  often  exceed  forty  pounds  in 
weight.  Leaving  Holey  Lake,  the  boats  entered  the 
Weepinapannis,  a  narrow,  grassy  stream,  and  the 
next  morning  reached  Swampy  Portage. 

The  Weepinapannis  is  composed  of  several 
branches,  which  separate  and  unite  again  and  again, 
intersecting  the  country  through  which  it  flows  in 
every  direction.  Captain  Franklin  pursued  the 
principal  channel,  and  after  crossing  a  small  sheet 
of  water  named  Windy  Lake,  entered  a  smooth, 
deep  stream,  known  by  the  absurd  appellation  of 
Rabbit  Ground.  The  marshy  banks  of  this  stream 
are  skirted  by  low  rocks.  As  the  boats  proceeded 
the  country  became  flatter.  Crossing  another  small 
lake,  our  travellers  arrived  at  a  romantic  defile, 
whose  rocky  walls,  rising  perpendicularly  to  the 
height  of  eighty  feet,  hem  in  the  stream  for  three 
quarters  of  a  mile,   in  many  places  so  closely  that 


POLAR    REGIONS.  357 

there  is  not  room  for  the  oars.  A  grand  and  pic- 
turesque rapid  terminates  the  passage,  and  a  brown 
fishing  eagle  which  has  nested  on  the  chfF  seems  to 
preside  over  the  scene.  This  chasm  is  called  The 
Hill  Gates. 

On  the  1st  of  October,  they  reached  the  White 
Fall  Portage,  which  is  oocasioned  by  three  distinct 
ridges  of  rock  crossing  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and 
is  thirteen  hundred  yards  long.  The  scenery  is 
rude  and  striking.  Rocks  piled  on  rocks  hang  over 
the  tarrents  which  sweep  their  bases,  while  tlie 
brig-ht  and  varied  tints^  of  the  mosses  and  lichens; 
which  cover  the  front  of  the  surrounding  cliiFs,  con- 
trasting with  the  gloomy  green  of  the  pines  which 
crown  their  summits,  add  beauty  to  the  grandeur  of 
the  scene. 

Leaving  the  White  Fall,  our  friends  arrived  at  the 
Painted  Stone,  a  rock  remarkable  for  its  position 
among  marshy  streams-  which  rise  on  each  side  of 
it.  This  spot  may  be  considered  as  one  of  the 
smaller  sources  of  Hayes'  River.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  Painted  Stone  rises  the  Echemamis,  which 
flows  to  the  westv/ard  into  Nelson  River.  Having 
launched  the  boats  over  the  rock,  the  party  com- 
menced the  descent  of  the  Echemamis. 

On  .the  morning  of  the  5th,  they  entered  Sea 
River,  one  of  the  many  branches  of  Nelson  River. 
This  they  ascended  for  two  hours,  crossed  a  port- 
age and  entered  Little  Jack  River,  which  is  a  chan- 
nel between  upper  and  lower  Play  Green  Lakes. 
Then  passing  through  upper  Play  Green  Lake  they 
encamped  at  Norway  Point  on  the  6th, 


358  POLAR    REGIONS. 

The  waters  of  Lake  Winnipeg  are  opaque  ;  and 
Nelson  River  and  Play  Green  Lake  being  its  dis- 
charges, are  muddy  also,  and  therefore  the  rocks 
concealed  in  them  are  doubly  dangerous.  The 
crew  of  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  boats, 
found  this  to  their  cost,  as  it  struck  on  a  reef, 
and  received  considerable  damage. 

Norway  Point  is  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula 
w^hich  separates  Play  Green  Lake  from  Lake  Win- 
nipeg. Norway  House,  at  this  place,  is  a  post  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Having  traced  the  route 
of  our  party  as  far  as  Lake  Winnipeg,  we  shall  post- 
pone their  subsequent  adventures  to  the  next  chap- 
ter. 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  Saskatehawayn, — Arrival  at  Cumberland  House. — Suflerings  of  the  In- 
dians.— First  of  January. — Bois  Brules. — Departure  of  Captain  Franklin. — 
Cumberland  House.— Vegetable  Kingdom. — Animals. — The  Nahccowak. 

That  the  reader  may  the  more  easily  trace  Cap- 
lain  Frankhn  and  his  fellow  travellers,  we  shall 
give  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  most  remark- 
able places  on  their  route.  Norway  Point  is  in 
latitude  53*^  41'  38",  and  longitude  98*^  1'  24". 

Leaving  Norway  House  on  the  7th  of  October, 
the  party  sailed  along  the  northern  shore  of  Lake 
Winnipeg  to  Limestone  Bay.  This  part  of  the 
coast  is  bordered  by  high  clay  bluffs  as  far  as  Lime- 
stone Bay,  a  distance  of  thirtyeight  miles. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  359 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  9th,  they  entered  the 
great  river  Saskatchawayn.  In  the  first  two  miles 
there  are  several  rapids.  Here  the  stream  varies 
in  breadth  from  five  hundred  yards  to  half  a  mile, 
and  flows  through  a  stony  channel  Then,  at  the 
Grand  Rapid,  the  river  makes  a  sudden  bend,  and 
rushing  through  a  narrow  passage  worn  in  the  sohd 
hmestone,  presents  an  unbroken  sheet  of  foam. 
The  route  from  Canada  to  Lake  Athabasca,  here 
unites  with  that  from  York  Factory. 

By  noon  on  the  12th,  the  boats  had  passed  the 
rapid,   and  they    moved   up   the    Saskatchawayn. 
As  they  proceeded  the  river  became  wider.     Its 
banks  are  high,  composed  of  w^hite  clay  and  lime- 
stone, and  their  tops  are  surmounted  by  firs,  pop- 
lars, birches  and  willows.     The   current  is  rapid, 
like   that   of  the  Missouri,  and   the  channel  is  in 
many   places   intricate    and    dangerous,   owing   to 
ridges  of  rock  which  jut  into  the  stream.     Still  ad- 
vancing, the  boats  entered  Cedar  Lake,  where  a 
violent  gale  compelled  them  to  put   ashore  at  a 
small  island  and  detained  them  a  whole  day.     On 
the  16th,  they  ascended  the  Saskatchawayn  eigh- 
teen miles,  and  found  the  banks  low,  fringed  with 
willows,  and  lined  with  drift  wood.     The   next  six 
days  were  passed  in  exertions  which  brought  them 
to  Cumberland  House,  on  Pine  Island  Lake,  a  tra- 
ding post   of  the   Hudson's  Bay  Company.     The 
margin  of  the  lake  was  incrusted  with  ice,  so  thick, 
that  to  effect  a  landing  they  were  obliged  to  break 
it  with  poles,  which  satisfied  Captain  Frankhn  that 
it  would  be  advisable  to  halt  for  the  winter. 


360  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Accordingly,  houses  were  built  for  the  men,  and 
measures  were  adopted  to  procure  provisions  for 
the  winter.     A  building  for  the  officers  was  com- 
pleted on  the  twentysecond  of  November,  at  which 
date  the  Saskatchawayn,  and  all  the  other  rivers  in 
the   vicinity,  were  frozen    over.     About  this  time 
some  Indians  came  to  the  post  to  beg  provisions, 
having  been  prevented  from  hunting  hf  sickness. 
We  mention   this  circumstance    to  exemplify   the 
miseries  of  savage  life,  than  which  none  has  greater 
vicissitudes.     Few  recitals  could  be  more  affecting 
than  the  detail  of  the  sufferings  of  Indians  during 
unfavorable    seasons,    or   in   sickness.      We   have 
seen  some  individuals   who  have  been  compelled 
by  starvation  to  feed  .on  the  bodies  of  their   own 
relatives.     When  we  consider  that  cannibalism  is 
regarded  v/ith  the  utmost  horror  by  the  aborigines — 
indeed,  as  a  sentence  of  perpetual  disgrace  on  him 
who  resorts  to  it,  we  may  conceive  that  a  shocking 
degree  of  suffering  only,  can  occasion  its   occur- 
rence. 

The  travellers,  as  well  as  the  agents  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  were  supplied  ,  with  food  in 
the  manner  common  to  all  trading  posts.  Hunters 
were  sent  out  to  kill  moose^  and  nets  were  set  in 
different  parts  of  the  lake  for  fish.  The  produce 
of  the  chase  and  fishery  was  brought  to  Cumber- 
land House  on  dog  sledges.  The  fishing  was  not 
very  productive,  though  sturgeon,  tittameg  and  trout 
were  commonly  found  upon  the  officers'  table. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  the  new  year  was  ush- 
ered in  by  repeated  discharges  of  musketry,  a  cer- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  361 

emony  which  has  long  been  observed  by  the  Cana- 
dian voyageurs.  The  party  dined  on  a  beaver ;  no 
very  delicate  morsel,  as  we  can  testify.  In  the 
evening  the  voyageurs  exhibited  sonie  gi^ace  and 
much  agility  in  a  dance ;  and  the  officers  had  occa- 
sion to  observe  the  passionate  fondness  of  the  half- 
bred  women  for  this  amusement.  These  women 
are  the  offspring  of  marriages  between  the  traders 
and  voyageurs  and  Indian  women,  or  to  speak  more 
correctly,  in  most  instances,  of  concubinage.  Lit- 
tle care  is  bestowed  on  them  by  their  fathers,  and 
their  morals  are  consequently  on  a  par  with  those 
of  their  respective  maternal  tribes.  They  com- 
monly marry  (according  to  the  custom  of  the  In- 
dian country)  at  an  early  age,  and  are  to  be  found 
in  every  trading-house  in  the  north  and  northwest. 
In  the  north  it  is  not  uncommon  for  one  woman  to 
be  maintained  by  two  voyageurs,  and  to  consider 
herself  the  wife  of  both.  Moreover,  the  Canadians 
frequently  sell  their  wives,  either  for  a  season  or 
altogether,  and  the  price  seldom  exceeds  that  of  a 
team  of  dogs.  While  young,  these  women  are  well 
shaped  and  handsome ;  but  their  features  and  per- 
sons soon  become  masculine,  as  do  those  of  the 
squaws. 

The  male  children  of  this  abominable  inter- 
course commonly  follow  the  occupations  of  their 
fathers ;  that  is,  they  are  employed  as  interpreters 
or  voyageurs  by  the  traders.  When  they  are  n  ot 
thus  engaged  they  roam  over  the  country  like  the 
Indians,  subsisting  by  the  chase.  Excepting  that, 
they  speak  French,  that  their  complexion  is  lighter 
31 


362  POLAR    REGIONS. 

and  that  their  costume  partakes  of  the  fashions  of 
Europe,  they  differ  little  from  the  savages.  Physi- 
cally they  are  a  fine  race,  well  formed  and  athletic, 
to  a  man.  This  class  of  men  and  women  are  very 
numerous,  and  are  called  metifs,  bois  brules,  or 
half-breeds. 

Conversations  with  the  traders  at  Cumberland 
House  persuaded  Captain  Franklin  of  the  necessity 
of  proceeding  to  Lake  Athabasca  during  the  win- 
ter. The  following  were  his  reasons.  The  resi- 
dents of  Lake  Athabasca  were  better  acquainted 
with  the  nature  of  the  country  north  of  Great  Slave 
Lake  than  those  of  Cumberland  House,  and  there 
only  could  guides,  hunters,  and  interpreters  be 
procured.  Accordingly,  he  set  off  for  Carlton  House 
on  the  eighteenth  of  January,  leaving  Dr  Richard- 
son behind.  We  will  not  follow  the  adventurous 
Captain  till  we  have  given  our  readers  some  infor- 
mation touching  Cumberland  House  and  the  In- 
dians who  inhabit  thereabout. 

Cumberland  House  is  in  latitude  53°  56'  40  and 
longitude  102°  16'  41".  Its  distance  from  York  Fac- 
tory is  about  seven  hundred  miles.  At  the  time  of 
which  we  are  writing,  a  house  belonging  to  the 
Northwest  Fur  Company  stood  beside  it ;  but  since 
the  two  rival  companies  have  united,  we  believe 
that  it  exists  no  longer.  The  post  was  established 
by  Hearne,  a  year  or  two  after  his  return  from  the 
Copper-mine  River,  and  has  ever  since  been  con- 
sidered by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  as  a  post 
of  considerable  importance.  Previous  to  that  time 
the  natives  carried  their  furs  down  to  the  shores  of 


POLx\R   REGIONS.  363 

Hudson's  Bay,  or  disposed  of  them  nearer  home 
to  the  French  Canadian  traders,  who  visited  this 
part  of  the  country  as  early  as  the  year  1697. 

The  Cumberland  House  district,  extending  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  east  to  west  along 
the  banks  of  the  Saskatchawan,  and  about  as  far 
from  north  to  south,  comprehends,  on  a  rough  cal- 
culation, upwards  of  twenty  thousand  square  miles, 
and  is  frequented  by  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
Indian  hunters.  Of  these,  a  few  have  several  wives, 
but  the  majority  only  one ;  and,  as  some  are  un- 
married, we  shall  not  err  greatly  in  considering  the 
number  of  married  w^omen  as  only  shghtly  exceed- 
ing that  of  the  hunters.  The  women  marry  very 
young,  have  a  custom  of  suckling  their  children  for 
several  years,  and .  are  besides  exposed  constantly 
to  fatigue,  and  often  to  famine ;  hence  they  are  not 
prolific,  bearing  upon  an  average  not  more  than 
four  children,  of  whom  two  may  attain  the  age  of 
puberty.  Upon  these  data,  the  amount  of  each  fam- 
ily may  be  stated  at  five,  and  the  whole  Indian  pop- 
ulation in  the  district  at  five  hundred. 

The  country  around  Cumberland  House  is  flat 
and  swampy,  and  is  much  intersected  by  small  lakes. 
Limestone  is  found  everywhere,  under  a  thin  stra- 
tum of  soil,  and  it  not  unfrequently  shows  itself 
above  the  surface.  It  lies  in  strata  generally  hori- 
zontal, but  in  one  spot  near  the  fort  dipping  to  the 
northward  at  an  angle  of  40°.  Some  portions  of 
this  rock  contain  very  perfect  shells. 

The  vegetable  productions  of  the  country  about 
Cumberland  House  are,  first, 


364  POLAR    REGIONS. 

The  populus  trepida,  or  aspen,  which  thrives 
best  in  moist  places,  and  is  more  abundant  on  the 
Saskatchawayn  than  any  other  tree.  When  newly 
cut,  it  is  good  fire-w^ood. 

The  populus  balsamifera,  or  taccamahac,  called  by 
the  Kinisteneaux  the  ugly  poplar,  in  allusion  to  its 
rough  bark,  naked  stem,  and  distorted  branches. 
It  is  an  inferior  fire-wood.  The  Indians  use  a  de- 
coction of  its  resinous  buds  for  snow  blindness,  but 
its  application  to  the  inflamed  eye  causes  acute 
pain. 

Of  evergreens  white  spruce  is  the  most  common. 
The  red  and  black  spruce,  the  balsam  of  Gilead  fir, 
and  the  Banksian  pine  also  occur  frequently.  The 
larch  is  stinted  and  unhealthy.  The  common  canoe 
birch  is  rare,  but  attains  a  considerable  size.  The 
alder  abounds  on  the  small  lakes,  and  the  Indians 
use  a  decoction  of  its  inner  bark  as  an  emetic. 
The  sugar  maple,  elm  and  ash  grow  on  the  Sas- 
katchawayn ;  but,  we  believe,  no  farther  north. 
The  choke  cherry  and  a  kind  of  wild  plum  com- 
plete the  list  of  trees. 

The  strawberry  is  found  in  abundance,  as  well 
as  the  raspberry.  The  red  whortleberry  is  found 
everywhere,  but  is  most  abundant  in  rocky  places. 
The  common  cranberry  is  found  in  all  the  swamps ; 
and  beside  these,  there  are  berries  of  several  other 
species. 

The  animals  of  this  district  are,  the  bison,  the 
moose,  the  reindeer,  the  American  elk,  the  apeesee- 
mongsoos,  or  jumping  deer,  the  kinwaithoos,  or  long- 
tailed  deer,  and  the  American  antelope  or  cabri. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  365 

All  these  are  hunted  for  food.  They  all  abound  in 
the  prairies  above  the  forks  of  the  Saskatchawayn, 
but  none  of  them,  excepting  the  moose  and  rein- 
deer, are  found  about  Cumberland  House. 

Of  the  fur-clad  animals,  there  are  red,  black,  blue, 
silver,  and  cross  foxes,  several  varieties  of  the  wolf, 
the  black,  red,  and  grizzly  bears,  and  the  wolver- 
ene. This  last  does  much  mischief,  eating  the 
martens  which  are  caught  in  traps,  and  is  therefore 
detested  by  the  hunters.  The  other  animals  are 
the  American  lynx,  the  marten,  the  pekan,  or  fisher, 
the  mink,  the  otter,  the  beaver,  and  the  musk-rat. 

The  land  around  Cumberland  House  is  low,  but 
the  soil,  from  having  a  considerable  intermixture  of 
lime-stone,  is  good,  and  capable  of  producing  abun- 
dance of  corn,  and  vegetables  of  every  description. 
Many  kinds  of  pot-herbs  have  already  been  brought 
to  some  perfection,  and  the  potatoes  equal  those 
of  any  country.  The  spontaneous  productions 
of  nature  would  afford  ample  nourishment  for  all 
the  European  animals.  Horses  feed  extreme- 
ly well  even  during  the  winter,  and  so  would  oxen, 
if  provided  with  hay,  which  might  be  easily  done. 
The  wild  buffalo  scrapes  away  the  snow  with  its 
feet,  to  get  at  the  herbage  beneath ;  and  the  horse, 
which  was  introduced  by  the  Spanish  invaders  of 
Mexico,  and  may  be  said  to  have  become  natural- 
ized, does  the  same;  but;  it  is  worthy  of  remark, 
that  the  ox,  more  lately  brought  from  Europe,  has 
not  yet  acquired  an  art  so  necessary  for  procuring 
its  food.     Pigs  also  improve,  but  require  to  be  kept 

warm  in  the  winter.     The  neighbourhood  of  the 
31# 


366  POLAR    REGIONS. 

houses  has  been  much  cleared  of  wood,  from  the 
great  demand  for  fuel ;  there  is,  therefore,  little  to 
admire  in  the  surrounding  scenery,  especially  in  its 
winter  garb ;  few  animated  objects  occur  to  enliven 
the  scene;  an  occasional  fox,  marten,  rabbit,  or 
wolf,  and  a  few  birds,  constitute  the  only  variety. 
The  birds  which  remain  are  ravens,  magpies,  par- 
tridges, cross-bills,  and  wood-peckers.  In  this  uni- 
versal stillness,  the  residents  at  a  post  feel  little 
disposed  to  wander  abroad,  except  when  called 
forth  by  their  occupations. 

The  Crees  (Gallicm,  oris)  Kinistenaux,  or  as  they 
call  themselves,  JYaheeowawk,  are  the  nation  to 
w^hich  the  Cumberland  House  Indians  belong.  If 
affinity  of  language  establishes  connexion,  we  have 
in  our  possession  a  vocabulary  of  their  tongue  which 
incontestibly  proves  them  to  belong  to  the  Algon- 
quin, or  Chippeway  stock,  branches  of  which  for- 
merly peopled  New  England.  Their  character  has 
been  so  much  modified  by  intercourse  with  the 
English  fur  traders,  that  it  cannot  be  said  w^hat  it 
was  originally.  We  may  say  that  they  are  a  vain, 
fickle,  improvident,  mendacious,  indolent  people, 
and  moreover  great  boasters.  Indeed  this  char- 
acter will  apply  to  all  the  wild  tribes  with  which 
we  have  any  acquaintance,  and  they  are  not  few. 
Yet  must  we  not  judge  them  strictly:  the  moral 
character  of  a  hunter  is  influenced  by  the  nature  of 
the  land  he  inhabits,  by  the  abundance  or  scarcity 
of  food,  and  by  the  facility  of  access  to  ardent 
spirits ;  all  of  which  causes  operate  unfavorably  on 
the  Naheeowawk.     We  must  also  bear  in  mind  that 


POLAR  REGIONS.  3G7 

they  are  a  race  without  any  divine  rule,  real  or 
supposed;  without  government,  and  without  any 
restraint  excepting  that  of  pubUc  opinion.  To  try 
their  character  or  conduct,  therefore,  by  our  own 
standard,  would  be  less  than  justice. 

On  the  other  hand,  they  are  scrupulously  honest, 
very  hospitable,  tolerably  kind  to  their  women, 
capable  of  friendship,  inclined  to  peace,  and  suscep- 
tible of  the  kinder  affections. 

Much  of  the  faulty  part  of  their  character  origi- 
nates in  their  mode  of  hfe.  Accustomed  to  depend, 
in  a  great  measure,  upon  chance  for  the  means  of 
subsistence,  they  are  consequently  indolent.  The 
most  offensive  trait,  boasting,  has  probably  been 
put  on  as  a  kind  of  natural  armor,  to  operate  on  the 
fears  of  their  enemies. 

There  is  little  wherein  the  manners  and  customs 
of  the  Naheeowawk  differ  from  those  of  other  tribes 
of  the  same  stock ;  and  as  we  have  matters  of  more 
interest  to  communicate,  we  shall  not  dwell  upon 
them  farther. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Snow  Shoes. — Dog  Sledges. — Travelling  Dress. — Mai  a  Raquettc. — Pcmican. 
— Sagacity  of  Wolves. — Arrival  at  Carlton  House. — Assinneboins. — 
Their  War  Parties. — Dressing  Skins. — A  Pound  for  catching  Buifaloe^. 

Captain  Franklin,  as  w^e  have  said  before,  started 
from  Cumberland  House  on  the  18th  of  January. 
As  we  shall  often  have  occasion  to  speak  of  the 


368  POLAR    REGIONS. 

implements  of  travelling  in  winter  in  an  Indian 
country,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  describe  them  here. 
A  snow-shoe  is  made  of  two  light  bars  of  wood, 
fastened  together  at  their  extremities,  and  pro- 
jected into  curves  by  transverse  bars.  The  side 
bars  have  been  so  shaped  by  a  frame,  and  dried 
before  a  fire,  that  the  front  part  of  the  shoe  turns 
up,  like  the  prow  of  a  boat,  and  the  part  behind 
terminates  in  an  acute  angle ;  the  spaces  between 
the  bars  are  filled  up  with  a  fine  netting  of  leathern 
thongs,  except  that  part  behind  the  main  bar,  which 
is  occupied  by  the  feet ;  the  netting  is  there  close 
and  strong,  and  the  foot  is  attached  to  the  main  bar 
by  straps  passing  round  the  heel,  but  only  fixing  the 
toes,  so  that  the  heel  rises  after  each  step,  and  the 
tail  of  the  shoe  is  dragged  on  the  snow.  Between 
themain  bar  and  another  in  front  of  it,  a  small 
space  is  left,  permitting  the  toes  to  descend  a  httle 
in  the  act  of  raising  the  heel  to  make  the  step  for- 
ward, which  prevents  their  extremities  from  chafing. 
The  length  of  a  snow-shoe  is  from  four  to  six  feet, 
and  the  breadth  one  foot  and  a  half,  or  one  foot 
and  three  quarters,  being  adapted  to  the  size  of  the 
wearer.  The  motion  of  walking  in  them  is  per- 
fectly natural,  for  one  shoe  is  level  with  the  snow, 
when  the  edge  of  the  other  is  passing  over  it.  It 
is  not  easy  to  use  them  among  bushes,  without  fre- 
quent overthrows,  nor  to  rise  afterwards  without 
help.  Each  shoe  weighs  about  two  pounds,  when 
unclogged  with  snow.  The  northern  Indian's  snow- 
shoes,  differ  a  httle  from  those  of  the  southern  In- 
dians, havinff  a  greater  curvature  on  the  outside  of 


POLAR  REGIONS.  369 

each  shoe ;  one  advantage  of  which  is,  that  when 
the  foot  rises  the  overbalanced  side  descends  and 
throws  off  the  snow.  All  the  superiority  of  Euro- 
pean art  has  been  unable  to  improve  the  native 
contrivance  of  this  useful  machine. 

Sledges  are  made  of  two  or  three  flat  boards, 
curving  upwards  in  front,  and  fastened  together  by 
transverse  pieces  of  wood  above.  They  are  so 
thin  that,  if  heavily  laden,  they  bend  with  the  ine- 
qualities of  the  surface  over  which  they  pass.  The 
ordinary  dog-sledges  are  eight  or  ten  feet  long  and 
very  narrow,  but  the  lading  is  secured  to  a  lacing 
round  the  edges.  The  cariole  used  by  the  traders 
is  merely  a  covering  of  leather  for  the  lower  part  of 
the  body,  affixed  to  the  common  sledge,  which  is 
painted  and  ornamented  according  to  the  taste  of 
the  proprietor.  Besides  snow-shoes,  each  individu- 
al carries  his  blanket,  hatchet,  steel,  flint,  and  tinder, 
and  generally  fire-arms. 

The  general  dress  of  the  winter  traveller  is  a 
capot,  having  a  hood  to  put  up  under  the  fur  cap 
in  windy  weather,  or  in  the  woods,  to  keep  the 
snow  from  his  neck ;  leathern  trowsers  and  Indian 
leggins,  which  are  closed  at  the  ankles,  round  the 
upper  part  of  his  moccasins,  or  Indian  shoes,  to  pre- 
vent the  snow  from  getting  into  them.  Over  these 
he  wears  a  blanket,  or  leathern  coat,  which  is  se- 
cured by  a  belt  round  his  waist,  to  which  his  fire- 
bag,  knife,  and  hatchet  are  suspended. 

Sledges  are  usually  drawn  by  three  dogs,  and  at 
the  commencement  of  a  journey,  carry  three  hun- 
dred pounds,  which  load,  however,  undergoes  a 


h 


370  POLAR   REGIONS. 

daily  diminution  from  the  consumption  of  provisions. 
The  sledge,  with  its  tackle,  weighs  about  thirty 
pounds,  and  thus  laden,  the  rate  of  travelling  is 
about  three  miles  an  hour. 

At  night.  Captain  Franklin  *  encamped'  after  the 
manner  of  the  north ;  that  is,  his  people  cleared  a 
small  spot  of  its  snow,  built  a  huge  fire,  before 
which,  after  supping,  the  party  slept.  In  such  en- 
campments it  is  necessary  to  hang  sledges  on  trees, 
out  of  the  reach  of  the  dogs,  lest  they  should  eat 
the  tackle. 

The  course  of  the  party  lay  up  the  Saskatcha- 
wayn,  and  they  made  but  slow  progress  through 
the  deep  snow.  The  task  of  beating  the  track  for 
the  dogs  was  so  fatiguing,  that  the  men  took  it  by 
turns,  at  intervals  of  an  hour  and  a  half.  By  the 
evening  of  the  20th,  Capt.  Franklin  had  experience 
of  one  not  the  least  of  the  hardships  of  winter  trav» 
elling,  viz.  what  is  called  the  mal  a  raquette,  or 
snow-shoe  pain.  This  is  caused  by  the  irritation  of 
the  tendons  of  the  upper  part  of  the  foot,  caused 
by  the  weight  of  the  snow-shoe.  This  is  an  evil 
which  few  of  the  uninitiated  escape,  and  which 
excites  no  commiseration  in  the  experienced  voy- 
ageurs,  who  think  of  it  as  sailors  do  of  sea  sickness. 
Nevertheless,  the  pain  is  almost  enough  to  bring 
down  the  fortitude  of  the  bravest. 

The  usual  food  of  the  voyageurs,  on  such  jour- 
neys, is  pemican,  which  is  made  in  the  following 
manner.  Meat  is  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  dried. 
It  is  then  broken  into  small  fragments,  and  pulver- 
ised, or  nearly  so,  with  a  pestle.     It  is  then  mixed 


POLAR   REGIONS.  371 

in  equal  parts  with  tallow  or  marrow  fat,  crammed 
into  a  parchment  bag,  and  pounded  hard.  It  is  a 
convenient  and  nutritious  food,  and  when  well  pre- 
pared will  keep  upwards  of  two  years. 

On  the  25th,  the  party  passed  the  remains  of 
two  elks,  lying  at  the  bases  of  perpendicular  cliffs 
over  which  they  had  probably  been  driven  by 
wolves.  These  voracious  animals,  who  are  inferi- 
or in  speed  to  the  moose  or  red-deer,  are  said  fre- 
quently to  have  recourse  to  this  expedient  in  places 
where  extensive  plains  are  bounded  by  precipitous 
cHffs.  While  the  deer  are  quietly  grazing,  the 
wolves  assemble  in  great  numbers,  and,  forming  a 
crescent,  creep  slowly  towards  the  herd  so  as  not 
to  alarm  them  much  at  first,  but  when  they  perceive 
that  they  have  fairly  hemmed  in  the  unsuspecting 
creatures,  and  cut  off  their  retreat  across  the  plain, 
they  move  more  quickly  and  with  hideous  yells  ter- 
rify their  prey,  and  urge  them  to  flight  by  the  only 
open  w^ay,  which  is  that  towards  the  precipice ;  ap- 
pearing to  know  that  when  the  herd  is  once  at  full 
speed,  it  is  easily  driven  over  the  cliff,  the  rearmost 
urging  on  those  that  are  before.  The  wolves  then 
descend  at  their  leisure,  and  feast  on  the  mangled 
carcasses. 

In  the  evening  of  the  26th,  the  travellers  put  up 
at  Upper  Nippeween,  a  deserted  trading  house, 
where  they  washed  and  shaved,  for  the  first  time 
since  leaving  Cumberland  House.  They  passed 
an  uncomfortable  and  sleepless  night,  and  agreed 
thenceforth  to  encamp  in  the  open  air,  as  prefer- 
able to  the  shelter  of  a  deserted  house  without 


L.^ 


372  POLAR   REGIONS. 

doors  or  windows.  In  the  course  of  the  next  day 
they  passed  the  confluence  of  the  south  branch  of 
the  Saskatchawayn,  which  rises  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains near  the  sources  of  the  Missouri.  They  then 
passed  the  ruins  of  a  house  which  the  traders  had 
been  compelled  to  abandon  on  account  of  the  in- 
tractable conduct  and  pilfering  habits  of  the  Assin- 
neboins.  They  moreover  learned  from  the  voy- 
ageurs  that  all  the  residents  of  a  house  near  the 
spot  had  been  cut  off  by  the  same  Indians  a  few 
years  before.  At  night,  the  wolves  serenaded  them, 
as  usual,  and  Mr  Back  was  more  seriously  dis- 
turbed. His  buffalo  robe  took  fire,  and  the  shoes 
on  his  feet  w^ere  so  much  contracted  by  the  heat, 
and  gave  him  so  much  pain,  that  he  was  obliged  to 
jump  up  and  run  into  the  snow  for  relief. 

On  the  30th,  they  reached  the  beginning  of  the 
Barren  Grounds,  above  which  both  banks  of  the 
river  are  bare.  Vast  prairies  extend  behind  the 
southern  bank,  affording  excellent  pasturage  for  the 
Buffalo,  a  herd  of  which  were  seen.  By  this  time 
their  provisions  were  expended,  and  they  were, 
therefore,  very  happy  to  reach  Carlton  House  the 
next  day  at  noon,  where  they  were  kindly  received 
and  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr  Prudens,  the  tra- 
der. 

Here  Captain  Franklin  had  an  opportunity  to 
see  some  Assinneboins,  or  in  their  own  tongue, 
Hohays.  Their  countenances  are  affable  and  plea- 
sing, their  eyes  large  and  expressive,  nose  aquiline, 
teeth  white  and  regular,  the  forehead  bold,  the 
cheek-bones  rather  high.     Their  figure  is  usually 


POLAR    REGIONS.  ^,    373 

good,  above  the  middle  size,  with  slender,  but  well- 
proportioned  limbs.  Their  color  is  a  light  copper, 
and  they  have  a  profusion  of  very  black  hair,  which 
hangs  over  the  ears,  and  shades  the  face.  Their 
dress,  which  is  extremely  neat  and  convenient, 
consists  of  a  shirt  and  leggins  of  leather ;  over  these 
a  buffalo  robe  is  thrown  gracefully.  These  dresse3 
are  in  general  cleaned  with  white  mud,  a  sort  of 
marl,  though  some  use  red  earth,  a  kind  of  bog-iron- 
ore  ;  but  this  color  neither  looks  so  light,  nor 
forms  so  agreeable  a  contrast  as  the  white  with 
the  black  hair  of  the  robe.  Their  quiver  hangs  be- 
hind them,  and  in  the  hand  is  carried  the  bow,  with 
an  arrow,  always  ready  for  attack  or  defence,  and 
sometimes  they  have  a  gun  :  they  also  carry  a  bag, 
containing  materials  for  making  a  fire,  some  tobac- 
co, the  calumet  or  pipe,  and  whatever  valuables 
they  possess.  This  bag  is  neatly  ornamented  with 
porcupine  quills.  Thus  equipped,  the  Stone  Indian 
bears  himself  with  an  air  of  perfect  independence. 
The  Stone  Indians  steal  whatever  they  can,  par- 
ticularly horses :  these  animals  they  maintain  are 
common  property,  sent  by  the  Almighty  for  the 
general  use  of  man,  and  therefore  may  be  taken 
wherever  met  with  ;  still  they  admit  the  right  of  the 
owners  to  watch  them,  and  to  prevent  theft  if  pos- 
sible. This  avowed  disposition  on  their  part  calls 
forth  the  strictest  vigilance  at  the  different  posts ; 
notwithstanding  which  the  most  daring  attacks  are 
often  made  with  success,  sometimes  on  parties  of 
three  or  four,  but  oftener  on  individuals.  About 
two  years  ago,  a  band  of  them  had  the  audacity  to 
32 


374  POLAR    REGIONS. 

attempt  to  take  away  some  horses  which  were  graz- 
ing before  the  gate  of  the  Northwest  Company's 
fort;  and,  after  braving  the  fire  from  the  few  peo- 
ple then  at  the  establishment  through  the  whole 
day,  and  returning  their  shots  occasionally,  they  ac- 
tually succeeded  in  their  enterprise.  One  man  was 
killed  on  each  side.  They  usually  strip  defence- 
less persons  whom  they  meet,  of  all  their  garments, 
but  particularly  of  those  which  have  buttons,  and 
leave  them  to  travel  home  in  that  state,  however 
severe  the  weather.  If  resistance  be  expected, 
they  not  unfrequently  murder  before  they  attempt 
to  rob.  The  traders,  when  they  travel,  invariably 
keep  some  men  on  guard  to  prevent  surprise,  whilst 
the  others  sleep  ;  and  often  practise  the  stratagem  of 
lighting  a  fire  at  sunset,  which  they  leave  burning, 
and  move  on  after  dark  to  a  more  distant  encampment 
— ^yet  these  precautions  do  not  always  baffle  the 
depredators.  Such  is  the  description  of  men  whom 
the  traders  of  this  river  have  constantly  to  guard 
against. 

These  parties  go  to  war  almost  every  summer, 
and  sometimes  muster  three  or  four  hundred  horse- 
men on  each  side.  Their  leaders,  in  approaching 
the  foe,  exercise  all  the  caution  of  the  most  skilful 
generals  ;  and  whenever  either  party  considers  that 
it  has  gained  the  best  ground,  or  finds  it  can  sur- 
prise the  other,  the  attack  is  made.  They  advance 
at  once  to  close  quarters,  and  the  slaughter  is  con- 
sequently great,  though  the  battle  may  be  short. 
Tb|e  prisoners  of  either  sex  are  seldom  spared,  but 
•slain  on  the  spot  with  wanton  cruelty.     The  dead 


POLAR    REGIONS.  *     375 

are  scalped,  and  he  is  considered  the  bravest  per- 
son who  bears  the  greatest  number  of  scalps  from 
the  field.  These  are  afterwards  attached  to  his 
war  dress,  and  worn  as  proofs  of  his  prowess.  The- 
victorious  party,  during  a  certain  time,  blacken 
their  faces  and  every  part  of  their  dress,  in  token  of 
grief  for  their  slain ;  and  in  that  state  they  often 
come  to  the  establishment,  if  near,  to  signify  their 
success  by  dancing  and  singing,  bearing  all  the  hor- 
rid insignia  of  war,  to  display  their  individual  feats. 

There  were  also  a  band  of  Naheeowawk  en- 
camped at  Carlton  House,  and  Captain  Franklin 
had  occasion  to  observe,  what  we  have  often  re- 
marked, that  the  greater  proportion  of  the  labor  of 
savage  life  falls  on  the  women.  He  saw  them 
employed  in  dressing  skins,  and  conveying  wood, 
water,  and  provision.  As  they  have  often  to  fetch 
the  meat  from  some  distance,  they  are  assisted  in 
this  duty  by  their  dogs,  which  are  not  harnessed  in 
sledges,  but  carry  their  burthens  in  a  manner  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  this  level  country.  Two  long 
poles  are  fastened  by  a  collar  to  the  dog's  neck ; 
their  ends  trail  on  the  ground,  and  are  kept  at  a 
proper  distance  by  a  hoop,  which  is  lashed  be- 
tween them,  immediately  behind  the  dag's  tail ;  tlie 
hoop  is  covered  with  net-work,  upon  which  the  load 
is  placed. 

There  was  also  another  object  of  interest  close 
by;  a  pound  for  catching  buffaloes.  It  was  a 
fenced  circular  space,  of  about  a  hundred  yards  in 
diameter ;  the  entrance  was  banked  up  with  snow, 


376  POLAR    REGIONS. 

to  a  sufficient  height  to  prevent  the  retreat  of  the 
animals  that  once  have  entered.  For  about  a  mile 
on  each  side  of  the  road  leading  to  the  pound, 
stakes  were  driven  into  the  ground,  at  nearly  equal 
distances,  of  about  twenty  yards ;  these  were  in- 
tended to  represent  men,  and  to  deter  the  animals 
from  attempting  to  break  out  on  either  side.  With- 
in fifty  or  sixty  yards  from  the  pound,  branches  of 
trees  were  placed  between  these  stakes  to  screen 
the  Indians,  who  he  down  behind  them  to  await  the 
approach  of  the  buffalo. 

The  principal  dexterity  in  this  species  of  chase  is 
show^n  by  the  horsemen,  who  have  to  manoeuvre 
round  the  herd  in  the  plains,  so  as  to  urge  them  to 
enter  the  roadway,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  broad.  When  this  has  been  accomplished, 
they  raise  loud  shouts,  and,  pressing  close  upon  the 
animals,  so  terrify  them  that  they  rush  heedlessly 
forward  towards  the  snare.  When  they  have  ad- 
vanced as  far  as  the  men  who  are  lying  in  ambush, 
these  also  rise,  and  increase  their  consternation  by 
violent  shouting,  and  firing  guns.  The  affrighted 
beasts  having  no  alternative,  run  directly  to  the 
pound,  where  they  are  quickly'  despatched,  either 
with  arrows  or  guns. 

There  was  a  tree  in  the  centre  of  the  pound,  on 
which  the  Indians  had  hung  strips  of  buffalo  flesh, 
and  pieces  of  cloth,  as  tributary  or  grateful  offerings 
to  the  Great  Master  of  Life ;  and  we  are  informed 
that  they  occasionally  place  a  man  in  the  tree,  to 
sing  to  the  presiding  spirit,  as  the  buffaloes  are  ad- 


A  POLAR  REGIONS.  877 

vancing,  who  must  keep  his  station  until  the  whole 
that  have  entered  are  killed.  This  species  of  hunt- 
ing is  very  similar  to  that  of  taking  elephants,  on  the 
island  of  Ceylon,  but  upon  a  smaller  scale. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Running  the  Buffalo. — Still  Hunting.— Carlton  House.— Goitres.— A  Dead 
Body.— Isle  a  la  Crosse.— Buftalo  Lake.- Pierre  au  Calumet.— Arrival  at 
Fort  Chippowyan. — Return  of  Sjt)ring. 

Beside  the  pound  there  are  other  ways  of  taking 
the  Buffalo,  all  practised  by  such  Indians  as  Uve  in 
the  prairies  and  ride  on  horseback.  Oi  He  e, 
hunting  on  horseback  requires  most  co  ;iau*e  and 
dexterity.  An  expert  hunter,  when  well  mounted, 
dashes  at  the  herd,  and  chooses,  an  individual,  which 
he  endeavours  to  separate  from  the  rest.  If  he  suc- 
ceeds, he  contrives  to  keep  them  apart,  by  the  pro- 
per management  of  his  horse,  though  going  at  full 
speed.  Whenever  he  can  get  sufficiently  near 
for  a  ball  to  penetrate  the  beast's  hide,  i  e  fiie-i, 
and  seldom  fails  of  bringing  the  animal  down ; 
though  of  course  he  cannot  rest  the  piece  against 
the  shoulder,  nor  take  a  deliberate  aim.  On  this 
service,  the  hunter  is  often  exposed  to  considetTible 
danger,  from  the  fall  of  his  horse  in  the  numerous 
holes  which  the  badgers  make  in  these  plains,  and 
also  from  the  rage  of  the  buffalo,  which,  when 
closely  pressed,  often  turns  suddenly,  and,  rushing 
furiously  on  the  horse,  frequently  succeeds  in  wound- 
32* 


378  POLAR  REGIONS.  -^ 

ing  it,  or  dismounting  the  rider.  Whenever  the 
animal  shows  this  disposition,  which  the  experi- 
enced hunter  will  readily  perceive,  he  immediately 
pulls  up  his  horse,  and  goes  off  in  another  direction. 

When  the  buffaloes  are  on  their  guard,  horses 
cannot  be  used  in  approaching  them  ;  but  the  hun- 
ter dismounts  at  some  distance,  and  crawls  in  the 
snow  towards  the  herd,  pushing  his  gun  before 
him.  If  the  buffaloes  happen  to  look  towards  him, 
he  stops,  and  keeps  quite  motionless,  until  their 
eyes  are  turned  in  another  direction ;  by  this  cau- 
tious proceeding  a  s'  ilful  person  will  go  so  near  as 
to  be  able  to  kill  two  or  three  out  of  the  herd.  It 
will  easily  be  imagined  this  service  cannot  be  very 
agreeable,  when  the  thermometer  stands  at  30°  or 
40"^  below  zero,  as  sometimes  happens  in  this  coun- 
try. 

The  buffalo  or  bison  is  a  huge  and  shapeless 
animal,  quite  devoid  of  grace  or  beauty  ;  particular- 
ly awkward  in  running,  but  by  no  means  slow; 
when  put  to  his  speed,  he  plunges  through  the  deep 
snow  very  expeditiously :  the  hair  is  dark  brown, 
very  shaggy,  curling  about  the  head,  neck,  and 
hump,  and  almost  covering  the  eye,  particularly  in 
the  bull,  which  is  larger  and  more  unsightly  than 
the  cow.  The  most  esteemed  part  of  the  animal  is 
the  hump,  called  by  the  Canadians  bosse,  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  people  the  loig  ;  it  is  merely  a  strong 
muscle,  on  which  nature  at  certain  seasons  forms  a 
considerable  quantity  of  fat.  It  is  attached  to  the 
long  spinous  processes  of  the  first  dorsal  vertebrae, 
and  seems  to  be  destined  to  support  the  enormous 


POLAR    REGIONS.  379 

head  of  the  animal.  The  meat  which  covers  the 
spinal  processes  themselves,  after  the  wig  is  re- 
moved, is  next  in  esteem  for  its  flavor  and  juici- 
ness, and  is  more  exclusively  termed  the  hump  by 
the  hunters. 

Carlton  House  is  in  52°  50'  47"  N.  latitude,  and 
106°  12'  42'  W.  longitude.  It  is  pleasantly  situated 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  on  flat  ground 
under  the  shelter  of  the  high  banks  which  bound 
the  plains.  The  soil  is  good,  and,  with  little  trouble, 
produces  ample  returns  of  wheat,  barley,  oats  and 
potatoes.  With  the  bank  behind  the  house  com- 
mences the  prairie  which  extends  to  Mexico  and 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  Carlton  House  is  a  provi- 
sion post,  for  the  supply  of  other  places,  and  few 
furs  are  collected  there.  There  are  more  such  es- 
tabhshments  farther  up  the  river,  at  one  of  which 
(Edmonton)  almost  all  the  residents  are  afl^icted 
with  bronchocele,  or  goitres.  This  disorder  attacks 
all  who  drink  the  water  of  the  river,  though  farther 
down  it  is  known  only  by  name.  A  great  pro- 
portion of  the  children  born  of  women  with  goitres 
are  idiots.  It  may  not  be  improper  to  state  here 
that  the  same  disease  prevails  at  Detroit  in  Michi- 
gan, where  it  is  mostly  confined  to  females. 

Isle  a  la  Crosse  was  the  next  stage  of  the  journey 
to  Athabasca ;  and  having  recovered  from  the  pains 
and  fatigues  of  the  march,  the  party  started  from 
Carlton  House  on  the  8th  of  February.  For  the 
first  two  days  their  route  lay  across  an  unvaried 
level,  destitute  of  wood.  On  the  second  afternoon, 
they  crossed  three  small  lakes,  two  of  fresh  water, 


380  POLAR    REGIONS.  ;%■ 

and  one  of  salt.  By  this  last  was  an  elevation, 
covered  with  poplars,  willows  and  pines,  at  the  foot 
of  which  they  encamped.  Here  they  saw  a  large 
herd  of  elks. 

The  next  day  there  was  an  agreeable  variety  of 
hill  and  dale,  with  enough  wood  for  ornament.  The 
valleys  were  intersected  by  small  lakes  and  ponds, 
whose  white  covering  happily  contrasted  with  the 
dark  green  of  the  pines  which  surrounded  them. 
Towards  night,  they  crossed  Lake  Iroquois,  and  en- 
camped on  its  beautiful  shore. 

The  next  day  they  struck  into  a  beaten  path, 
which  brought  them  to  the  remains  of  an  Indian  hut. 
Close  to  this  ruin  w^as  a  great  pile  of  wood,  which 
the  voyageurs  supposed  to  cover  a  deposit  of  pro- 
visions. They  removed  the  upper  pieces,  and  to 
their  surprise  found  the  body  of  a  squaw,  apparent- 
ly recently  placed  there.  Her  garments,  the  ma- 
terials for  striking  fire,  a  fishing-line,  a  hatchet,  and 
a  bark  dish  were  laid  beside  her.  The  wood  was 
carefully  replaced. 

The  next  evening  the  party  reached  Stinking 
Lake,  in  latitude  53°  25',  and  longitude  107°  18'.  It 
is  of  an  oval  form,  and  its  shores  are  low  and  swam- 
py ;  to  which  it  owes  its  name,  and  not  to  any  bad 
quality  of  its  waters.  The  day  after,  the  route  lay 
over  ranges  of  hills  so  thickly  covered  with  firs, 
birches,  and  poplars,  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty 
the  sledges  passed  between  them.  On  the  15th, 
they  reached  Pelican  Lake,  which  is  eight  miles 
long  and  six  broad.  Thence  the  view  to  the  right 
is  bounded  by   a   range  of  lofty  hills.     The   17th 


POLAR   REGIONS.  381 

brought  them  to  a  trading-house  on  Green  Lake. 
Green  Lake  is  eighteen  miles  long,  and  does  not 
exceed  a  mile  and  a  half  in  breadth  in  any  part. 
The  waters  are  deep,  and  abound  in  trout  and  titta- 
meg. 

Here  the  Captain  remained  two  days,  and  then 
pushed  on,  and  after  crossing  several  more  lakes 
and  rivers,  arrived  on  the  24th,  at  the  trading-house 
on  Isle  a  la  Crosse  Lake,  which  derives  its  name 
from  an  island,  on  which  the  Indians  formerly  used 
to  play  a  game  of  ball  called  La  Crosse.  It  is  cel- 
ebrated in  the  north  for  the  abundance  and  quality 
of  its  fishes.  It  lies  in  latitude  55°  25',  and  longi- 
tude 107°  5r. 

On  the  5th  of  March,  the  travellers  resumed  their 
journey,  and  in  two  days  reached  a  trading-house 
on  Buffalo  Lake.  On  the  11th,  they  came  to  ano- 
ther estabhshment  on  Lake  Methye,  where  they  were, 
as  usual,  well  received. 

This  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  ten  miles  long 
and  six  broad,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  species 
of  fish  caught  in  it,  but  not  esteemed ;  for  the  resi- 
dents never  eat  any  part  of  it  but  the  liver:  the 
dogs  reject  even  that.  Capt.  Franklin  ascertained 
that  the  position  of  the  houses  was  in  latitude  56"* 
24,'  and  longitude  109°  23'. 

The  places  next  in  order  on  the  route  of  our 
travellers  were,  the  Methye  Portage,  Pine  Port- 
age, and  Cascade  Portage,  the  latter  of  which 
is  the  last  on  the  way  to  Athabasca,  Here  they 
found  five  lodges  of  Chippewyans,  very  poor  and 
miserable.     They  had  lately  lost  several  of  their 


382  POLAR    REGIONS.  # 

relatives,  and  according  to  the  custom  of  almost  all 
Indian  tribes  had  given  away  all  their  property,  and 
destroyed  their  clothes  and  tents,  in  token  of  grief. 
This  accounted  for  their  forlorn  appearance. 

On  the  17th,  the  party  came  to  the  junction  of 
the  Pembina  with  the  Athabasca  river.  The  west- 
ern shore  near  the  Forks  is  destitute  of  trees,  and 
is  composed  of  lofty  perpendicular  cliffs.  A  few 
pines  are  the  only  trees  on  the  eastern  shore.  On 
the  18th,  they  reached  a  trading-house  at  Pierre 
au  Calumet,  where  they  remained  till  the  22d. 
This  place  receives  its  name  from  the  stone  there 
procured,  of  which  the  Indians  make  their  pipes. 
It  is  in  latitude  57"*  24".  Mr  Stuart,  the  person  in 
charge  of  the  trading-house,  kept  a  register  of  the 
weather,  from  which  it  appeared  that  the  lowest 
•temperature  observed  that  winter  at  Pierre  au  Calu- 
met was  — 43**  and  he  informed  Capt.  Franklin  that 
he  had  never  known  it  lower  than  — 45°  at  Lake 
Athabasca,  or  Great  Slave  Lake. 

On  the  23d,  the  party  overtook  an  old  Canadian 
who  was  conveying  meat  from  some  Indian  lodges 
to  Fort  Chippewyan.  He  had  on  his  sledge  a  bur- 
then of  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  which  was 
drawn  by  two  miserable  dogs.  The  travellers  were 
much  amused  by  an  altercation  which  took  place 
between  him  and  their  own  voyageurs,  about  the 
merits  of  their  respective  dogs.  The  old  man  of- 
fered to  bet  the  whole  of  his  wages  that  his  two 
dogs,  poor  and  lean  as  they  were,  would  drag  their 
load  to  Athabasca  in  less  time  than  any  three  of 
theirs.     In  explanation,  he  said  that  he  depended 


POLAR   REGIONS.  383 

on  his  skill  in  driving,  and  gave  them  to  understand 
that  the  voyageurs  of  Athabasca  consider  them- 
selves greatly  superior  to  any  others. 

Having  now  the  guidance  of  the  old  Canadian, 
Capt.  Frankhn  sent  two  of  his  party  forward,  with 
letters  for  Athabasca.  On  the  25th,  at  ten,  A.  M. 
he  entered  the  river  Embarras,  the  channel  by 
which  canoes  usually  enter  the  Lake.  It  is  a  nar- 
row, serpentine  stream,  running  between  alluvial 
banks,  which  aiTord  nourishment  to  pines,  poplars 
and  willows.  He  had  not  advanced  far,  when  he 
overtook  the  two  men  despatched  in  advance  ; — 
stormy  weather  had  compelled  them  to  encamp,  as 
the  snow  drifted  too  much  to  permit  them  to  at- 
tempt to  cross  the  Lake.  Capt.  Franklin  was 
obhged  to  follow  their  example,  and  was  detained 
the  rest  of  the  day. 

The  weather  moderated  in  the  night,  and  the  next 
morning  the  party  arrived  at  Mamma-wee  Lake. 
At  four,  P.  M.  they  reached  Fort  Chippewyan,  on 
Athabasca  Lake.  Thus  terminated  a  winter  journey 
of  eight  hundred  and  fiftyseven  miles,  attended  by 
many  disagreeable  circumstances,  not  the  least  of 
w^hich  was  the  mal  a  raquette.  The  next  evil  was, 
being  obhged  to  witness  the  wanton  and  unnecessa- 
ry cruelty  of  the  Canadians  to  their  dogs,  which 
were  beaten  unmercifully.  There  were  other  in- 
conveniences, which  were,  however,  speedily  for- 
gotten, when  they  had  found  a  hearty  welcome  at 
Fort  Chippewyan. 

Here  Capt.  Franklin's  first  object  was  to  obtain 
information  respecting  his  future  route  ;  and  Beau- 


384  POLAR    REGIONS. 

lieu,  a  man  who  had  been  brought  up  among  the 
Copper  and  Dog  Rib  Indians,  was  found  capable  to 
furnish  it.  An  old  Chippewyan,  named  Black  Meat, 
also  contributed  his  stock  of  knowledge,  which  was 
afterwards  found  to  be  tolerably  correct.  He  de- 
scribed two  rivers,  which  run  east  of  the  Copper 
Mine,  and  fall  into  the  northern  ocean,  viz.  the  An- 
atessy,  which  issues  from  the  Contwayto,  or  Rum 
Lake,  and  the  Thlouceatessy,  or  Fish  River,  which 
rises  near  the  eastern  boundary  of  Great  Slave 
Lake.  He  represented  them  both  as  shallow — too 
much  so  for  navigation  in  canoes.  Capt.  Franklin 
then  wrote  to  the  traders  of  Great  Slave  Lake  to 
communicate  the  object  of  his  journey,  and  to  re- 
quest information  and  assistance ;  and  farther,  de- 
sired them  to  communicate  his  intentions  to  the 
Copper  Indians,  and  to  engage  some  of  them  as 
guides  and  hunters. 

There  was  little  appearance  of  returning  spring 
till  the  8th  of  April,  when  some  wild  fowl  were 
seen  flying  northward.  In  the  middle  of  the  month, 
the  snow  began  to  waste,  and  by  degrees  it  disap- 
peared from  the  hills  and  the  surface  of  the  Lake. 
On  the  21st,  geese  were  killed,  and  four  days  after, 
flies  were  seen  sporting  in  the  sunshine.  On  the 
26th,  the  ice  in  the  Athabasca  river  broke  up,  but 
there  was  no  appearance  of  decay  in  that  of  the 
Lake. 

By  the  10th  of  May,  the  trees  began  to  put  forth 
their  leaves,  and  early  flowers  appeared.  The  mus- 
quitoes  began  to  be  troublesome,  yet  the  ice  still 
held  fast.    On  the  17th  and  18th,  there  were  show- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  385 

ers  of  rain  with  thunder  and  Ughtning.     On  the 
24th,  the  ice  broke  up  and  utterly  disappeared,  and 
traders  from  the  different  posts  in  the  department 
arrived  at  Fort  Chippewyan  with  their  cargoes  of 
furs. 


CHAPTER  V. 

News  from  Great  Slave  Lake. — Voyageurs  engaged. — Fort  Chippewyan. 
— Lake  of  the  Hills. — Chippewyan  Tribe. — Their  Dress. — Character. — 
Vanity. — Opinions. — Customs. — Abandonment  of  their  Sick. — A  Birch 
Canoe. 

On  the  3d  of  June,  Capt.  Frankhn  received  from 
Great  Slave  Lake  the  welcome  tidings  that  the 
principal  Chief  of  the  Copper  Indians  had  heard 
the  news  of  his  arrival  in  the  country  with  joy,  and 
had  promised  that  he  would  accompany  the  expe- 
dition, with  a  party  of  his  people.  This  promise  he 
had  given  at  the  instance  of  Mr  Wentzel,  a  trader, 
who  he  wished  might  accompany  him.  These  In- 
dians were  to  wait  at  Fort  Providence,  on  the 
northern  shore  of  Slave  Lake,  for  Capt.  Frankhn's 
arrival.  The  Captain,  therefore,  had  no  doubt  of 
being  able  to  obtain  provisions  on  his  journey  ;  and 
this  agreeable  intelligence  had  such  an  effect  on  the 
Canadian  voyageurs,  that  several  of  them  now^  seem- 
ed disposed  to  offer  their  services. 

On  the  5th  of  June,  six  Canadians  were  engaged 
to  accompany  the  expedition.     The  bowman  and 
steerman  (the  two  most  important  hands)  were  to 
33 


386  POLAR    REGIONS. 

receive  wages  at  tlie  rate  of  sixteen  hundred  livres 
Halifax  per  annura,  and  the  rest  twelve  hundred. 
It  was  moreover  stipulated  that  their  pay  should 
continue  until  their  arrival  at  Montreal,  or  till  they 
resumed  the  service  of  their  present  employers. 

Fort  Chippewyan,  the  principal  post  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  in  this  department,  is  conveni- 
ently situated  to  command  Slave  and  Peace  Rivers, 
whence  the  traders'  canoes  assemble  in  spring  and 
autumn.  On  the  first  occasion  they  bring  the  furs 
collected  during  the  winter,  and  on  the  latter  they 
receive  the  merchandise  destined  for  the  Indians. 
Fort  Chippewyan  is  an  ancient  establishment  and 
stands  on  a  rocky  point  of  the  northern  shore,  and 
has  a  tovver  which  may  be  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
This  addition  Avas  made  for  the  purpose  of  watch- 
ing the  Indians,  who,  several  years  ago,  were  in- 
stigated by  one  of  their  pretended  prophets  to  de- 
stroy the  traders,  but  by  great  vigilance  on  the  part 
of  the  whites,  their  design  was  frustrated. 

That  part  of  this  extensive  lake  which  is  near 
the  fort  is,  not  improperly,  called  The  Lake  of  the 
Hills.  The  northern  shore  and  the  islands  are 
high  and  rocky.  The  southern  shore  is  quite  level, 
consisting  of  alluvial  knd  which  is  hable  to  be 
flooded,  lying  between  the  different  mouths  of  Elk 
River.  The  .  rocks  of  the  northern  shore  are  of 
sienite,  covered  with  a  thin  soil,  sufficient  to  sup- 
port a  variety  of  firs  and  poplars,  as  well  as  shrubs, 
lichens,  and  mosses.  Some  of  the  hills  are  five  or 
six  hundred  feet  high,  within  a  mile  of  the  fort,  and 
from  their  summits  is  a  very  fme  view  of  the  lake 


POLAR   REGIONS.  387 

and  the  surrounding  country.  The  land  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Elk  and  main  rivers,  is  of  about 
the  same  height,  and  stretches  southerly  behind 
Pierre  au  Calumet.  Opposite  that  establishment, 
on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  is  the  Black  Moun- 
tain, whence  the  Crees  obtain  their  provisions  and 
bark  for  their  canoes.  On  the  southern  shore 
there  is  another  range  of  hills,  which  runs  tov/ard 
Peace  River. 

The  residents  of  Fort  Chippewyan  depend  al- 
most entirely  for  subsistence  on  the  fishes  which 
the  lake  affords,  and  which  are  caught  in  sufficient 
abundance  during  the  winter;  but  when  the  ice 
breaks  up,  they  remove  into  the  smaller  lakes  and 
the  rivers  on  the  southern  shore.  They  are  aitih- 
awmegh,  trout,  carp,  pike,  and  methye.  The  hunt- 
ers also  supply  buffalo  and  moose  meat,  which  is 
mostly  converted  into  pemican,  for  the  use  of  the 
voyageurs  when  travelling.  This  season  there  was 
an  unusual  scarcity. 

At  the  opening  of  the  waters  in  spring,  the  In- 
dians resort  to  the  trading-houses  to  settle  their  ac- 
counts and  procure  necessaries,  which  assemblage 
w  as  formerly  attended  by  much  riot  and  confusion, 
occasioned  by  the  free  use  of  ardent  spirits.  We 
are  happy  to  state  that  these  are  no  longer  used  by 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  as  an  article  of  trade. 

The  Indians  belong  to  the  great  Chippewyan  or 
northern  family  ;  dialects  of  their  language  being 
spoken  on  the  Peace  and  Mackenzie's  Rivers,  and 
also  by  the  tribes  of  New^  Caledonia,  as  ascertained 
by    Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie.     They  call  them- 


I 


388  POLAR    REGIONS. 

selves  Dinneh  men,  or  Indians,  but  each  horde  has 
some  distinctive  epithet  beside ;  for  instance,  those 
who  trade  at  Fort  Chippewyan  are  called  Indians 
of  the  Rising  Sun,  their  original  territory  being 
between  Athabasca  and  Great  Slave  Lakes  and 
Churchill  River.  This  country  is  frequented  by 
reindeer,  which  furnish  the  Indians  with  subsistence 
and  clothing.  There  are  about  an  hundred  and 
sixty  hunters  who  carry  their  furs  to  Great  Slave 
Lake,  forty  to  Hay  River,  and  two  hundred  and 
forty  to  Fort  Chippewyan. 

They  are  a  people  by  no  means  prepossessing  in 
their  appearance.  They  have  broad  faces,  project- 
ing cheek-bones,  and  wide  nostrils ;  but  they  also 
generally  have  fine  teeth  and  eyes.  Their  dress 
consists  of  a  leathern  hunting-shirt  and  leggins, 
over  which  a  blanket  is  thrown,  and  a  fur  cap,  or 
band,  on  the  head.  Their  manner  is  reserved,  and 
their  habits  are  selfish  and  beggarly ;  they  are 
unceasingly  importunate  for  everything  they  see. 
They  give  and  receive  with  equal  ill  grace,  snatch- 
ing a  thing  in  the  one  instance,  and  throwing  it  at 
you  in  the  other.  Neither  do  they  practise  that 
hospitahty  which  strikes  a  stranger  so  favorably 
among  other  Indians.  A  traveller  may  leave  their 
lodges  hungry,  unless  he  has  sufllicient  assurance  to 
help  himself  from  the  kettle  uninvited  ;  in  which 
case  the  owner  only  notices  the  rudeness  by  a 
frown,  as  he  considers  it  beneath  his  dignity  to 
make  disturbance  about  a  piece  of  meat. 

It  should  be  stated,  as  some  relief  to  the  dark 
shades  of  their  character,  that  instances  of  theft  are 


r 


POLAR    REGIONS.  389 

very  rare  among  them.  They  are  affectionate  to 
their  children,  and  profess  some  regard  for  their 
relatives,  who  are  numerous,  as  they  trace  consan- 
guinity very  far. 

They  decline  to  pitch  their  tents  where  their  re- 
lations have  died,  for  fear  of  being  reminded  of 
their  loss  and  of  the  happy  hours  they  have  spent 
there ;  but  the  change  of  situation  does  not  always 
obhterate  sorrowful  impressions.  They  will  sit 
without  their  tents  in  groups,  and  give  vent  to  their 
grief  in  loud  lamentations.  In  cases  of  sickness, 
they  resort  to  the  medicinal  powers  of  singing  and 
drumming,  and  to  conjurations.  The  conjurors  are 
very  assiduous  and  suffer  great  personal  fatigue  on 
such  occasions. 

The  chiefs  have  no  power  whatever,  and  receive 
no  respect  or  obedience  excepting  from  the  youths 
of  their  own  families.  This  is  owing  to  the  fact 
that  their  tribe  is  at  peace  with  all  the  world,  and 
because  the  young  men  can  get  what  they  want 
without  their  assistance. 

The  Northern  Indians  evince  no  little  vanity,  by 
assuming  to  themselves  the  comprehensive  title  of 
*  The  People,'  whilst  they  designate  all  other  na- 
tions by  the  name  of  their  particular  country.  If 
men  were  seen  at  a  distance,  and  a  Chippewyan  was 
asked  who  those  persons  were,  he  would  answer. 
The  People,  if  he  recognised  them  to  belong  to 
his  tribe,  and  never  Chippewyans  ;  but  he  would  give 
them  their  respective  names,  if  they  were  Euro- 
peans, Canadians,  or  Cree  Indians.  As  they  sup- 
pose that  their  ancestors  came  originally  from  the 
33* 


390  POLAR    REGIONS. 

east,  those  who  happen  to  be  born  in  the  eastern 
part  of  their  territory  are  considered  of  the  purest 
blood.  All  the  savages  of  this  quarter,  excepting 
the  Dog  Ribs,  impute  to  themselves  an  eastern 
origin. 

The  Chippewjans  are  considered  to  be  less  ex- 
pert hunters  than  the  Crees,  which  probably  arises 
from  their  residing  much  on  the  barren  lands,  where 
the  reindeer  are  so  numerous  that  little  skill  is  re- 
quisite.   A  good  hunter,  however,  is  highly  esteemed 
among  them.     The  facility  of  procuring  goods,  since 
the  commercial  opposition  commenced,  has  given 
great  encouragement  to  their  native  indolence  of 
disposition,  as  is  manifested  by  the  difference  in 
the  amount  of  their  collections  of  furs  and  provi- 
sion between  the  late  and  former  years.     From  six 
to  eight  hundred  packs  of  furs  used  formerly  to  be 
sent  from  this  department ;  now  the  return  seldom 
exceeds  half  that  amount.     The  decrease  in  the 
provision  has  been  already  mentioned. 

The  Northern  Indians  suppose  that  they  origin- 
ally sprang  from  a  dog ;  and  about  five  years  ago, 
a  superstitious  fanatic  so  strongly  pressed  upon 
their  minds  the  impropriety  of  employing  this  ani- 
mal, to  which  they  were  related,  for  purposes  of  la- 
bor, that  they  universally  resolved  against  using  dogs 
any  more,  and,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  destroyed 
all  they  had.  ,  They  have  now  to  drag  everything 
themselves,  on  sledges.  This  laborious  task  falls 
most  heavily  on  the  women;  nothing  can  more 
shock  the  feehngs  of  a  person  accustomed  to  civi- 
lized life,  than  to  witness  the  state  of  their  degrada- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  391 

tion.  When  a  party  is  on  a  march,  the  women  have 
to  drag  the  tent,  the  meat,  and  whatever  the  hunter 
possesses,  whilst  he  only  carries  his  gun  and  medi- 
cine bag.  In  the  evening  they  form  the  encamp- 
ment, cut  wood,  fetch  water,  and  prepare  the  sup- 
per; and  then,  perhaps,  are  not  permitted  to  par- 
take of  the  fare  until  the  men  have  finished. 
A  successful  hunter  sometimes  has  two  or  three 
wives ;  whoever  happens  to  be  the  favorite  as- 
sumes authority  over  the  others,  and  has  the  man- 
agement of  the  tent.  These  men  usually  treat  their 
wives  unkindly,  and  even  with  harshness  ;  except, 
indeed,  when  they  are  about  to  increase  the  family, 
and  then  they  show  them  much  indulgence. 

Hearne  charges  the  Chippewyans,  with  the  dread- 
ful practice  of  abandoning,  in  extremity,  their  aged 
and  sick  people. 

One  instance  only  came  under  the  observation 
of  Captain  Franklin,  which  was  attended  by  pal- 
liating circumstances.  An  old  woman  and  a  boy 
ten  years  old  arrived  at  Fort  Chippewyan,  who  had 
been  left  in  their  camp  by  their  people  when  much 
reduced  by  sickness.  Two  or  three  days  after 
their  departure  the  woman  gained  a  Httle  strength, 
and  was  able,  with  the  assistance  of  the  boy,  to 
paddle  a  canoe  to  the  post,  where  they  were  sup- 
ported till  enabled  to  go  in  search  of  some  other 
relation  who,  they  expected,  would  treat  them 
more  kindly.  It  afterwards  appeared  that  the  w^o- 
man  bore  a  very  bad  character,  having  been  guilty 
of  infanticide,  and  that  her  companions  thought  her 
offences  merited  the  desertion. 


392  POLAR    REGIONS. 

This  tribe  entertain  the  most  inveterate  hatred 
toward  the  Esquimaux,  though  since  their  present 
intimate  connexion  with  the  traders,  they  have  dis- 
continued their  war  excursions  against  them. 

The  weather  was  extremely  variable  in  the 
month  of  June,  and  the  musquitoes  swarmed  about 
the  house,  inflicting  so  much  pain  on  its  inmates 
that  they  were  compelled  to  keep  their  rooms  con- 
stantly filled  with  smoke,  as  the  only  means  of  driv- 
ing them  away.  On  the  2d  of  July,  the  canoe  in- 
tended for  the  use  of  the  expedition  was  finished  ; 
and  as  it  was  like  those  used  by  Indians  and  In- 
dian traders  all  over  the  north  and  northwest,  a  de- 
scription may  not  be  deemed  out  of  place  here. 
Its  extreme  length  was  thirtytwo  feet  six  inches, 
including  the  bow  and  stern  pieces,  its  greatest 
breadth  was  four  feet  ten  inches  ;  but  it  was  only, 
two  feet  nine  inches  forward,  where  the  bowman 
sat,  and  two  feet  four  inches  behind,  where  the 
steersman  was  placed ;  and  its  depth  was  one  foot 
eleven  and  a  quarter  inches.  There  were  seventy- 
three  hoops  of  thin  cedar,  and  a  layer  of  slender 
laths  of  the  same  wood  within  the  frame.  These 
feeble  vessels  of  bark  will  carry  twentyfive  pieces 
of  goods,  each  weighing  ninety  pounds,  exclusive 
of  the  necessary  provisions  and  baggage  for  the 
crew  of  five  or  six  men,  amounting  in  the  whole  to 
about  three  thousand  three  hundred  pounds'  weight. 
This  great  lading  they  annually  carry  between  the 
depots  and  the  posts,  in  the  interior  ;  and  it  rarely 
happens  that  any  accidents  occur,  if  they  be  man- 
aged by  experienced  bowmen  and  steersmen,  on 


POLAR   REGIONS.  393 

whose  skill  the  safety  of  the  canoe  entirely  depends 
in  the  rapids  and  difficult  places.  When  a  total 
portage  is  made,  these  two  men  carry  the  canoe, 
and  they  often  run  with  it,  though  its  weight  is  es- 
timated at  about  three  hundred  pounds,  exclusive 
of  the  poles  and  oars,  which  are  occasionally  left  in 
where  the  distance  is  short. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

An  Accident. — Arrival  of  Dr  Richardson. — Arrangements  for  Departure/— 
Departure. — Portages. — A  Buffalo  killed. — The  Party  arrive  at  Great 
Slave  Lake. — At  Fort  Providence. — Conference  with  Akaitcho. 

On  the  7th  of  July,  some  men  and  their  families 
who  had  been  sent  off  to  search  for  Indians  with 
whom  they  intended  to  pass  the  summer,  returned 
to  the  fort,  in  consequence  of  a  serious  accident 
having  befallen  their  canoe  in  the  Red  Deer  River ; 
when  they  were  in  the  act  of  hauling  up  a  strong 
rapid,  the  line  broke,  the  canoe  was  overturned,  and 
two  of  the  party  narrowly  escaped  drowning ;  for- 
tunately the  women  and  children  happened  to  be  on 
shore,  or,  in  all  probability,  they  would  have  per- 
ished in  the  confusion  of  the  scene.  Nearly  all 
their  stores,  their  guns,  and  fishing-nets,  were  lost, 
and  they  could  not  procure  any  other  food  for  the 
last  four  days  than  some  unripe  berries. 

On  the  13th,  the  party  at  Fort  Chippewyan  had 
the  pleasure  to  welcome  their  long  separated  friends, 


394  POLAR    REGIONS.  X 

Dr  Richardson  and  Mr  Back,  who  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, had  been  left  at  Cumberland  House.  They 
arrived  in  perfect  health,  having  made  a  very  ex- 
peditious journey  in  two  canoes,  notwithstanding  a 
detention  of  three  days,  in  consequence  of  the 
melancholy  death  of  one  of  their  bowmen,  by  the 
upsetting  of  one  of  their  canoes  in  a  rapid.  These 
gentlemen  had  brought  all  the  stores  they  could  pro- 
cure at  Cumberland  and  Isle  a  la  Crosse,  though 
these  were  very  scanty.  The  prospect  of  com- 
mencing so  long  a  journey,  almost  destitute  of  pro- 
visions and  stores,  was  distressing  to  the  officers, 
and  discouraging  to  the  men  ;  but  it  was  evident 
that  any  delay  would  be  very  imprudent,  as  Fort 
Chippewyan  could  not  furnish  subsistence  for  so 
large  a  party.  They  therefore  hastened  the  ar- 
rangements for  a  speedy  departure.  A  final  ar- 
rangement was  made  respecting  the  voyageurs  who 
were  to  accompany  the  party,  in  which  there  was 
no  difficulty,  as  ten  Canadians,  brought  by  Dr  Rich- 
ardson from  Cumberland  were  desirous  to  proceed. 
When  the  number  was  completed,  Capt.  Franklin 
had  sixteen  Canadians,  and  a  worthy  English  sea- 
man, John  Hepburn  by  name,  beside  two  interpret- 
ers whom  he  was  to  receive  at  Great  Slave  Lake. 
An  equipment  of  necessary  articles  was  given  to 
each  man  engaged,  and  the  remaining  goods  were 
made  up  in  bales. 

On  the  18th,  the  party  started  from  Fort  Chip- 
pewyan, and  at  two,  P.  M.,  entered  Stony  River, 
one  of  the  discharges  of  Lake  Athabasca  into  Slave 
River.     This  narrow  stream  is  confined  between 


m 


POLAR  REGIONS.  395 

low,  swampy  banks,  covered  with  willows,  dwarf 
birch  and  alder.  At  five  they  passed  its  conflu- 
ence with^  Peace  River.  The  Slave,  formed  by 
the  union  of  these  two,  is  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  wide.  They  descended  this  great  stream 
with  much  rapidity,  and,  after  passing  through  sev- 
eral narrow  channels,  crossed  a  spot  where  the 
waters  had  a  violent  whirhng  motion  with  no  other 
inconvenience  than  an  inability  to  steer  the  canoes, 
which  were  whirled  about  in  every  direction  by 
the  eddies,  till  the  current  swept  them  beyond  the 
sphere  of  their  influence.  They  encamped  at  seven 
on  the  bank. 

At  ten  the  next  morning  they  reached  the  mouth 
of  Dog  River,  where,  they  halted  to  fish,  but  in  vain. 
The  day  after,  in  passing  a  rapid,  two  of  the  canoes 
came  in  such  violent  contact  that  one  of  them  had 
her  bow  broken  oflf.     This  injury  being  repaired  in 
two  hours,  they  next  passed  a  portage  of  four  hun- 
dred yards,  and  afterwards  two  more.    At  the  latter  ot 
these,  as  the  men  were  carrying  the  canoes  over, 
they  let  one  of  them  fall,  and  it  was  broken  in  tw^o. 
Two  hours  passed  in  sewing  the  shattered  pieces 
together,  and  covering  the  seams  with  pitch,  ren- 
dered it  as  efficient  as  ever.     Such  are  these  frail 
vehicles ;  very  easily  broken,  and  almost  as  easily 
repaired.    After  this,  they  passed  four  more  portages, 
including  the  last  on  the  way  to  Great  Slave  Lake. 
At  the  foot  of  this   they   encamped.     It  is   called 
The  Portage  of  the  Droicned,  from  an  accident  which 
had  taken  place  some  years  before,  and  which  we 
shall  relate  here.     Two  canoes  arrived  at  the  up- 


396  POLAR    REGIONS. 

per  end  of  the  portage,  in  one  of  which  there  was 
an  experienced  guide.  This  man,  judging  from 
the  height  of  the  river,  deemed  it  practicable  to 
shoot  the  rapid,  and  determined  upon  trying  it.  He 
accordingly  placed  himself  in  the  bow  of  his  canoe, 
having  previously  agreed,  that  if  the  passage  was 
found  easy,  he  should,  on  reaching  the  bottom  of 
the  rapid,  fire  a  musket,  as  a  signal  for  the  other 
canoe  to  follow.  The  rapid  proved  dangerous,  and 
called  forth  all  the  skill  of  the  guide,  and  the  utmost 
exertion  of  his  crew,  and  they  narrowly  escaped 
destruction.  Just  as  they  were  landing,  an  unfor- 
tunate fellow,  seizing  the  loaded  fowling-piece,  fired 
at  a  duck  w-hich  rose  at  the  instant.  The  guide, 
anticipating  the  consequences,  ran  with  the  utmost 
haste  to  the  other  end  of  the  portage,  but  he  was 
too  late ;  the  other  canoe  had  pushed  off,  and  he 
arrived  only  to  witness  the  fate  of  his  comrades. 
They  got  alarmed  in  the  middle  of  the  rapid,  the 
canoe  was  upset,  and  every  man  perished. 

The  portages  and  rapids  passed  this  day  are  oc- 
casioned by  an  assemblage  of  islands  and  rocky 
ledges  which  obstruct  the  river,  and  divide  it  into 
many  narrow  channels,  two  of  which  are  rendered 
still  more  difficult  by  an  accumulation  of  drjft  tim- 
ber. The  rocks  which  form  the  bed  of  the  stream 
and  the  numerous  islands  are  granite.  The  dis- 
tance made  this  day  was  thirteen  miles. 

The  next  day  passed  wdthout  adventure,  unless 
seeing  several  salt  springs  be  such ;  but  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  22d,  as  the  canoes  turned  a  point,  a  buf- 
falo plunged  into  the  river  before  them.     A  fire 


^:. 


POLAR  regions;  397 

was  opened  upon  him  from  four  muskets,  and  he 
fell,  but  not  before  he  had  received  fourteen  balls 
in  his  body.  The  canoes  were  speedily  supphed 
with  meat ;  and  after  this  good  fortune  the  voyageurs 
paddled  merrily  onward,  keeping  time  to  their  gay- 
est songs.  This  supply  enabled  them  to  proceed 
without  delay  to  Slave  Lake. 

On  the  24th,  they  passed  the  m.outh  of  a  broad 
channel  leading  to  the  north-east,  termed  La  Grande 
Riviere  de  Jean,  one  of  the  two  large  branches 
by  which  the  river  pours  its  waters  into  Slave 
Lake.  The  flooded  delta  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
is  intersected  by  several  smaller  channels,  through 
one  of  which  the  expedition  passed,  and  by  eight, 
A.  M.  reached  an  establishment  of  the  Northwest 
Company  on  Moose-Deer  Island,  in  Slave  Lake. 
Here  Capt.  Franklin  engaged  Pierre  St  Germain, 
who  spoke  the  language  of  the  Copper  Indians,  as 
an  interpreter,  and  also  obtained  a  considerable 
supply  of  provision. 

Moose-Deer  Island  is  about  a  mile  in  diameter, 
and  rises  towards  the  centre  about  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  lake.  Its  soil  is  in  general  sandy,  in 
some  parts  swampy.  The  varieties  of  the  northern 
berries  grow  abundantly  on  it.  The  Northwest 
Company's  Fort  is  in  latitude  61°  II'  8''  N. ;  longi- 
tude 113°  51'  37''  W.,  being  two  hundred  and  sixty 
statute  miles  distant  from  Fort  Chippewyan,  by  the 
river  course.  The  variation  of  the  compass  is  25° 
40'  47"  E.  The  houses  of  the  two  Companies  are 
small,  and  have  a  bleak  northern  aspect.  There 
are  vast  accumulations  of  drift  wood  on  the  shores 
34 


398  ,  •  POLAR    REGIONS.  ^ 

of  the  lake,  brought  down  by  the  river,  which  afford 
plenty  of  fuel.  The  inhabitants  live  principally  on 
the  fish,  which  the  lake  at  certain  seasons  furnishes 
in  great  abundance ;  of  these,  the  white  fish,  trout, 
and  poisson  inconnu  are  considered  the  best.  They 
also  procure  moose,  buffalo,  and  reindeer  meat 
occasionally  from  their  hunters ;  but  these  animals 
are  generally  found  at  the  distance  of  several  days' 
walk  from  the  forts.  The  Indians  who  trade  here 
are  Chippewyans.  Beavers,  martens,  foxes,  and 
musk-rats,  are  caught  in  numbers,  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  great  body  of  water.  The  musquitoes  here 
were  still  a  serious  annoyance,  but  less  numerous 
than  before.  They  were  in  some  degree  replaced 
by  a  small  sand-fly,  whose  bite  is  succeeded  by  a 
copious  flow  of  blood,  and  considerable  swelling, 
but  is  attended  with  incomparably  less  irritation 
than  the  puncture  of  the  musquito. 

On  the  27th,  the  party  set  forward  again,  and 
proceeded  along  the  south  shore  of  the  lake  to 
Stony  Island,  where  they  breakfasted.  This  isle 
is  merely  a  rock  of  gneiss,  which  rises  forty  or  fifty 
feet  from  the  water.  As  the  day  was  fine,  they 
then  ventured  to  paddle  across,  in  a  northern  di- 
rection to  the  Rein-Deer  Islands,  distant  thirteen 
miles,  and  reached  them  in  safety.  These  islands 
consist  of  granite,  and  are  from  one  to  two  hundred 
feet  high.  They  are  for  the  most  part  naked,  but 
on  the  larger  ones  there  is  a  little  soil,  and  a  few 
groves  of  pines.  The  party  encamped  on  one  of 
them.  The  next  day  they  ran  for  some  hours  be- 
fore a  strong  breeze  and  a  heavy  swell,  till  they 
were  obliged  to  seek  shelter  on  an  island. 


POLAR   REGIONS.         ^  399 

In  the  afternoon,  the  wind  and  swell  subsided, 
and  they  pursued  their  course  to  the  Big  Island  of 
Mackenzie,  and  the  next  morning  reached  Fort 
Providence.  Here  they  found  Mr  Wentzel,  the 
interpreter  Adam,  and  an  Indian  guide,  waiting 
their  arrival.  Immediately  on  landing,  the  Indians 
were  apprised  of  their  coming,  by  a  lire  on  the  top 
of  a  neighbouring  hill. 

Mr  Wentzel  gave  Capt.  Franklin  all  the  in- 
formation he  had  received  from  the  Indians.  The 
duties  allotted  to  this  gentleman  were,  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Indians,  the  superintendence  of  the 
voyageurs,  and  the  obtaining  and  general  distri- 
bution of  provisions  and  stores.  As  he  had  been 
accustomed  to  execute  simJlar  services  for  twenty 
years,  he  was  well  qualified  to  perform  these  duties. 

In  order  to  receive  Akaitcho  and  his  followers, 
the  officers  arrayed  themselves  in  their  uniforms, 
well  knowing  that  with  these  people  much  depends 
on  appearances.  On  landing,  the  chief  walked  up 
to  Mr  Wentzel  in  a  grave  and  dignified  manner, 
looking  neither  to  the  right  nor  to  the  left  till  he 
reached  the  hall,  where  he  was  introduced  to  the 
officers.  He  said  he  was  rejoiced  to  see  such  great 
chiefs  on  his  lands  ;  his  tribe  was  poor,  but  he  loved 
white  men,  and  hoped  their  arrival  would  greatly 
benefit  his  people.  The  only  material  point  in  his 
harangue  was,  that  he  was  ready  to  fulfil  his  en- 
gagements, and  accompany  the  expedition. 

In  reply  to  this  speech,  Capt.  Franklin  explained 
the  objects  of  his  mission,  in  the  manner  best  calcu- 
lated to  insure  his  cooperation.     He  said  that  the 


400  .  POLAR    REGIONS.  '^ 

greatest  chief  in  the  world,  who  w^as  the  sovereign 
of  all  the  traders,  having  learned  that  his  red  chil- 
dren were  in  want  of  many  articles,  in  consequence 
of  the  difficulty  and  delay  of  transportation,  had 
sent  him  in  search  of  a  passage  by  sea,  by  which 
large  quantities  of  goods  might  be  brought.  He 
said  he  was  desirous  .of  the  aid  of  the  Indians,  as 
guides  and  hunters;  and  finally,  he  was  enjoined  by 
the  great  chief  to  recommend  that  all  hostilities 
should  cease  throughout  the  country,  particularly 
between  the  Indians  and  the  Esquimaux,  whom  he 
considered  as  his  children,  in  common  with  the 
other  natives.  By  way  of  enforcing  this  last  point, 
the  captain  assured  him  that  if  any  quarrel  arose 
between  his  people  and  the  Esquimaux,  the  conse- 
<iuence  would  be  the  forfeiture  of  all  advantages  to 
be  derived  from  the  expedition. 

The  chief,  whose  name  was  Akaitcho,  or  Big 
Foot,  replied  by  a  renew^al  of  his  assurances  that 
he  would  attend  the  party  to  the  end  of  their  jour- 
ney^ and  would  do  his  utmost  to  provide  the  means 
oS  subsistence.  He  admitted  that  his  tribe  had 
made  war  on  the  Esquimaux,  but  said  that  they 
were  now  desirous  of  peace,  and  added,  that  as 
the  Esquimaux  were  very  treacherous,  he  recom- 
mended much  caution  in  dealing  with  them. 


POLAR    REGIONS.        .-.£j  401 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Akaitcho. — Preparations  for  the  Journey. — Fort  Providence. — Journey  up 
Yellow  Knife  River .^ Want  of  Food.— Yellow  Knife  River.— Mutiny  of 
the  Voyagours. — The  Party  reach  their  Winter  duarters. — Conduct  of 
Akaitcho. — Departure  of  Messrs  Back  and  Hood. 

When  Akaitcho  and  his  people  had  communi- 
cated all  the  information  they  possessed,  Captain 
Frankhn  presented  them  with  medals,  informing 
them  that  these  were  tokens  of  friendship  and 
pledges  of  sincerity.  This  donation  being  made 
in  the  presence  of  all  the  hunters,  was  highly  satis- 
factory to  them,  but  they  avoided  all  demonstra- 
tions of  joy,  considering  them  derogatory  to  their 
dignity.  During  the  whole  of  the  interview,  the 
chief  evinced  much  penetration,  and  impressed  the 
officers  with  a  very  favorable  opinion  of  his  intel- 
lectual powers.  A  quantity  of  goods  was  pre- 
sented to  him,  and  he  retired  with  his  people  to 
make  the  necessary  preparations  to  commence  the 
journey  on  the  morrow. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  the  Indians  started,  intend- 
ing to  wait  for  the  party  at  the  mouth  of  Yellow 
Knife  River.  The  whites  remained,  to  pack  their 
stores  in  bales  of  eighty  pounds  each.  These  con- 
sisted of  gunpowder,  lead,  guns,  pistols,  knives, 
tools  of  various  kinds,  articles  of  merchandize  for 
the  Indians  and  Esquimaux,  nets  and  fishing-lines, 
and  provisions  for  ten  days  consumption.  When 
all  was  ready,  the  party  consisted  of  twentyeight 
persons,  including  the  wives  of  three  of  the  voya- 
34* 


402  POLAR    REGIONS, 


% 


geurs,  who  were  brought  for  the  purpose  of  making 
clothes  and  mocasins  at  the  winter  estabhshment. 

Fort  Providence  is  in  latitude  62"*  17'  and  lon- 
gitude 114°  9'.  It  is  distant  from  Moose-Deer  Is- 
land sixtysix  geographic  miles.  This  is  the  last 
establishment  of  the  traders  in  this  direction,  but 
the  Northwest  Company  have  two  to  the  northward 
of  it  on  the  Mackenzie  River.  It  has  been  erected 
for  the  convenience  of  the  Copper  and  Dog- Rib 
Indians,  who  generally  bring  such  a  quantity  of 
reindeer  meat,  that  the  residents  are  enabled, 
out  of  their  superabundance,  to  send  annually  some 
provisions  to  the  fort  at  Moose-Deer  Island.  They 
also  occasionally  procure  moose  and  buffalo  meat, 
but  these  animals  are  not  numerous  on  this  side  of 
the  lake.  Few  furs  are  collected.  Les  poissons 
inconnus,  trout,  pike,  carp,  and  white-fish,  are  very 
plentiful,  and  on  these  the  residents  principally 
subsist.  Their  great  supply  of  fish  is  procured  in 
the  latter  part  of  September  and  the  beginning  of 
October,  but  there  are  a  few  taken  daily  in  the  nets 
during  the  winter.  The  surrounding  country  con- 
sists almost  entirely  of  coarse-grained  granite,  fre- 
quently enclosing  large  masses  of  reddish  feldspar. 
These  rocks  form  hills  about  a  mile  behind  the 
house,  which  attain  an  elevation  of  three  hundred  or 
four  hundred  feet ;  their  surface  is  generally  naked, 
but  in  the  valleys  between  them  grow  a  few^  spruce, 
aspen,  and  birch  trees,  together  with  a  variety  of 
shrubs  and  berry-bearing  plants. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  2d,  the  party  started  in 
high   spirits,   heartily  glad   that   their  course   was 


POLAR  REGIONS.         >  .  403 

to  be  through  a  hne  of  country  hitherto  unexplored. 
They  proceeded  northward  along  the  lake,  and  en- 
camped eight  miles  from  Fort  Providence.  The 
eastern  shores  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake  are  very 
imperfectly  known ;  none  of  the  traders  have  vis- 
ited them,  and  the  Indians  give  such  loose  and  un- 
satisfactory accounts,  that  no  estimation  can  be 
formed  of  its  extent  in  that  direction.  These  men 
say  there  is  a  communication  from  its  eastern  ex- 
tremity by  a  chain  of  lakes,  with  a  shallow  river, 
which  discharges  its  waters  into  the  sea.  This 
stream  they  call  the  Thlouee-tessy,  and  report  it  to 
be  navigable  for  Indian  canoes  only.  The  forms  of 
the  south  and  western  shores  are  better  known 
from  the  survey  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  and  in 
consequence  of  the  canoes  having  to  pass  and  re- 
pass along  these  borders  annually  between  Moose- 
Deer  Island  and  Mackenzie's  River.  Capt.  Frank- 
lin's observations  made  the  breadth  of  the  lake,  be- 
tween Stony  Island  and  the  north  main  shore,  sixty 
miles  less  than  it  is  laid  down  in  Arrowsmith's  map  ; 
and  there  is  also  a  considerable  difference  in  the 
longitude  of  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  which  he 
entered. 

This  lake,  owing  to  its  great  depth,  is  seldom 
completely  frozen  over  before  the  last  week  in  No- 
vember, and  the  ice,  which  is  generally  seven*  feet 
thick,  breaks  up  about  the  middle  of  June,  three 
weeks  later  than  that  of  the  Slave  River.  The 
only  known  outlet  to  this  vast  body  of  water,  which 
receives  so  many  streams  on  its  north  and  south 
shores,  is  the  Mackenzie  River. 


# 


404  POLAR    REGIONS. 

The  next  morning  they  proceeded  to  the  mouth 
of  Yellow  Knife  River,  where  they  found  Akaitcho 
and  his  hunters  encamped.  In  company  with  them 
they  paddled  up  the  river,  which  is  an  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  in  an  hour  came  to  a  cas- 
cade, which  compelled  them  to  make  a  portage. 
Akaitcho  caused  himself  to  be  paddled  by  his  slave, 
a  young  man  of  the  Dog  Rib  tribe,  whom  he  had 
taken  by  force  from  his  friends.  When  he  thought 
himself  out  of  the  reach  of  observation,  however, 
he  laid  much  of  his  state  aside,  and  assisted  in  the 
labor  ;  and  on  better  acquaintance,  he  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  be  seen  paddling,  or  even  carrying  his  canoe 
at  the  portages.  Several  of  the  canoes  were  pad- 
dled by  squaws,  who  were  very  noisy,  and  fre- 
quently quarrelled ;  and  the  weakest  was  generally 
clamorous  in  her  lamentations,  which  were  not  less 
when  her  husband  settled  the  difference  by  a  few 
blows  of  his  paddle. 

On  the  4th,  they  crossed  a  small  lake,  and  then 
passed  two  portages.  After  this  they  came  to 
three  strong  rapids,  and  immediately  after  to  a  part 
of  the  river  where  the  rapids  were  so  frequent,  that, 
to  avoid  them,  they  carried  the  canoes  into  a  chain 
of  small  lakes,  which  they  entered  by  a  portage  of 
nine  hundred  yards. 

By  the  5th  of  August,  all  their  provision  was 
exhausted  excepting  some  portable  soup,  and  the 
hunters  were  sent  forward  in  quest  of  reindeer. 
Akaitcho  himself  was  always  furnished  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  meals  of  the  officers,  as  a  token  of  re- 
gard which  the  traders  had  taught  the  chiefs  to 
expect. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  405 

The  nets  were  set  every  night,  but  with  little  or 
no  success ;  and  the  officers  were  obliged  to  issue 
portable  soup  and  arrowroot,  food  too  unsubstan- 
tial to  support  the  voyageurs  under  their  exhaust- 
ing daily  labor;  and  they  could  not  furnish  even 
enough  of  this  to  satisfy  their  desires.  At  last,  on 
the  9th,  the  party  reached  Lower  Carp  Lake^ 
where  Akaitcho  said  many  fishes  might  be  caught ; 
and  Captain  Franklin  resolved  to  halt  for  two  or 
three  days,  to  fish,  as  well  as  to  recruit  the  men, 
several  of  whom  were  lame.  The  chief  himself 
went  forward  to  look  after  the  hunters,  and  prom- 
ised to  make  a  fire,  as  a  signal,  if  they  had  killed 
any  reindeer.  All  the  Indians  left  them  at  the 
same  time  to  hunt. 

On  the  10th  and  11th,  the  nets  caught  enough  to 
give  the  men  two  hearty  meals  ;  and  having  recov- 
ered from  their  fatigue,  they  proceeded  to  Upper 
Carp  Lake,  in  longitude  113*'  46'.  The  country 
through  which  they  had  been  travelling  consists 
mostly  of  granite,  in  some  spots  intermixed  with 
mica  slate,  often  passing  into  clay  slate.  Scarcely 
had  the  party  quitted  their  encampment,  when  an 
Indian  met  them  with  the  agreeable  intelligence 
that  the  hunters  had  made  several  fires  as  signals 
of  success  in  the  chase.  This  inspired  the  voya- 
geurs with  fresh  energy,  and  they  quickly  paddled 
through  Rein-Deer  Lake,  on  the  north  side  of  which 
they  found  the  hunter's  canoes.  The  Yellow  Knife 
had  now  dwindled  into  a  brook,  and  they  could 
not  trace  it  beyond  the  next  lake.  Its  source  is  in 
latitude  64°  1',  and  longitude  113"  36',    Its  length  is 


406  •  POLAR  REGIONS. 

an  hundred  and  fiftysix  statute  miles.  Though  this 
river  is  sufficiently  deep  and  broad  for  canoes,  it  is 
too  much  interrupted  by  falls  and  rapids  ever  to 
become  a  channel  for  the  conveyance  of  merchan- 
dize. 

Akaitcho,  who  was  here  with  his  family,  pointed 
out  the  distant  smoke  of  the  hunters'  fires.  From 
the  top  of  a  neighbouring  hill  the  prospect  was 
agreeably  diversified  with  hill  and  valley,  and  by 
the  appearance  of  twelve  lakes  in  different  direc- 
tions. On  the  borders  of  these  lakes  a  few  pine 
groves  occur ;  but  in  general,  the  country  is  desti- 
tute of  vegetation,  excepting  a  few  shrubs  and 
lichens.  The  hills  are  of  gneiss,  but  their  acclivi- 
ties are. covered  with  a  coarse  gravelly  soil. 

On  the  13th,  the  voyageurs,  who  had  for  some 
days  been  murmuring  at  their  meagre  diet,  broke 
out  into  open  mutiny ;  and  some  of  them  declared 
that  they  would  not  proceed,  unless  more  food  was 
given  them.  This  conduct  was  the  more  blameable, 
as  they  were  rapidly  approaching  the  fires  of  the 
hunters.  They  merely,  however,  followed  the  com- 
mon practice  of  their  class,  who  always  try  how  far 
they  can  impose  on  a  new  master,  and  are  intracta- 
ble ever  after  if  he  yields  to  them.  On  this  occa- 
3ion,  Capt.  Franklin  threatened  them  with  the  se- 
verest punishment,  and  they  again  went  forward. 
Just  as  the  party  encamped,  four  of  the  hunters  met 
them  with  a  load  of  meat,  which  completely  revived 
the  spirits  of  the  Canadians ;  and  they  never  again 
reflected  on  the  officers  for  bringing  them  into  an 
inhospitable  country,  where  the  means  of  subsist- 
ence could  not  be  procured* 


POLAR    REGIONS.  407 

The  hunters  killed  a  great  many  reindeer,  and 
the  party  no  longer  suffered  from  want  of  food. 
They  crossed  many  more  lakes  and  portages,  and 
on  the  19th  reached  the  lake  where  Akaitcho  pro- 
posed that  they  should  pass  the  winter. 

The  prospect  was  not  the  most  agreeable,  as  the 
borders  of  the  lake  seemed  scantily  furnished  with 
wood,  and  that  of  a  kind  too  small  for  the  purposes 
of  building.  The  next  morning,  they  paddled  to 
the  western  extremity,  where,  on  the  bank  of  a 
small  stream,  they  found  that  the  situation  chosen 
possessed  all  the  advantages  they  could  desire. 
The  trees  were  numerous  and  of  larger  size,  some 
of  them  two  feet  in  diameter.  They  determined  to 
erect  their  dwellings  on  the  summit  of  the  bank, 
which  commands  a  fine  prospect  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  The  view  in  front  is  bounded  at  the 
distance  of  three  miles  by  round-backed  hills :  to 
the  eastward  and  westward  lie  Winter  and  Round 
Rock  Lakes,  which  are  connected  by  Winter  River, 
whose  banks  are  well  clad  with  pines,  and  orna- 
mented with  a  profusion  of  mosses,  shrubs,  and 
lichens.  The  united  length  of  the  portages  they 
had  crossed,  since  leaving  Fort  Providence,  is  twen- 
tyone  statute  miles  and  a  half;  and  as  the  men 
had  to  traverse  each  portage  four  times,  with  a  load 
of  one  hundred  and  eighty  pounds,  and  return  three 
times  hght,  they  walked,  in  the  whole,  upwards  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  total  length  of 
the  voyage  from  Chippewyan  is  five  hundred  and 
fiftythree  miles. 

The  next  morning  the  voyageurs  were  divided 


408  POLAR    REGIONS. 

into  two  parties,  the  one  to  cut  wood  for  building, 
and  the  other  to  bring  in  the  deer  killed  by  the 
hunters.  To  commence  their  stock  of  provisions, 
the  carcasses  of  seven  reindeer  were  brought  to 
the  spot  that  very  evening. 

The  next  day  Akaitcho  (who  had  been  absent 
on  a  visit  to  some  of  his  tribe)  arrived  with  his 
party,  having  only  obtained  fifteen  deer.  They 
had  heard  of  the  death  of  the  chiefs  brother-in-law 
and  had  spent  their  time  in  bewaihng  the  loss, 
instead  of  hunting.  The  decease  of  this  man  had 
also  caused  another  part  of  the  tribe,  on  whom  Capt. 
Franldin  depended  for  supplies,  to  remove  to  Great 
Bear  Lake,  out  of  the  line  of  his  proposed  route. 
These  circumstances  were  mortifying ;  and  to  in- 
crease the  evil,  Akaitcho  now  refused  to  accompa 
ny  them  any  farther  that  season,  though  he  was  wil- 
ling to  proceed  in  the  spring.  All  argument  was 
lost  upon  him,  and  he  even  threatened  to  leave  them 
and  return  to  Fort  Providence.  It  w^as  therefore 
resolved  to  despatch  a  party  to  the  Coppermine,  to 
examine  the  route  ;  and  with  this  intention  the  chief 
expressed  himself  well  pleased. 

On  the  28th,  Akaitcho  came  into  Capt.  Franklin's 
tent,  to  make  inquiries  respecting  an  eclipse  which 
he  had  been  told  was  to  take  place.  He  was  much 
astonished  that  the  whites  should  know  the  exact 
time  at  which  this  event  would  happen,  and  re- 
marked that  it  was  a  proof  of  their  superiority  over 
the  Indians.  The  Captain  took  advantage  of  this 
occasion  to  read  him  a  moral  lecture,  respecting  the 
propriety  of  fulfilling  his  engagements ;  and  Akait- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  409 

cho  promised  to  do  his  best  for  the  expedition  in 
return  for  the  interesting  communication  just  made. 
On  the  29th,  Messrs  Back  and  Hood  started  for 
the  Coppermine.  As  we  shall  go  over  the  same 
ground  with  the  whole  party,  we  shall  not  follow 
them  on  this  occasion. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Trip  to  tl>e  Coppermine. — Fort  Enterprise. — Reindeer. — Departure  of 
Messrs  Back  and  Wentzel. — Conduct  of  the  Indians. — Frozen  Fishes. — 
News  from  Slave  Lake. — Green  Stockings. — Temperature. — Diet. — Ar- 
rival from  Slave  Lake. — Esquimaux  Interpreters. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September,  Captain 
Franklin  and  Dr  Richardson  set  off,  on  foot,  for  the 
Coppermine  River,  under  the  guidance  of  an  old 
Copper  Indian  named  Keskarrah.  They  reached 
the  end  of  their  journey  on  the  fourth  day,  striking 
the  river  at  an  expansion  called  Point  Lake,  the 
latitude  of  which  is  65""  9',  and  the  longitude  112* 
57^  They  then  walked  to  the  main  channel  of  the 
river,  which  they  found  deep,  and  between  high, 
rocky  banks,  with  clusters  of  spruce-trees  on  their 
borders.  The  hills  in  this  neighbourhood  are  higher 
than  those  about  the  winter-quarters,  but  stand  in 
the  same  detached  manner,  without  any  connecting 
ranges ;  and  the  bottom  of  every  valley  is  occupied 
either  by  a  small  lake  or  a  marsh.  On  the  banks 
of  such  of  these  lakes  as  communicate  with  the 
Coppermine  there  are  a  few  groves  of  spruce-trees. 
35 


410  POLAR    REGIONS. 

After  making  these  observations,  the  gentlemen  re- 
turned to  the  spot  from  whence  they  came,  and 
found,  on  their  arrival,  that  Messrs  Hood  and  Back 
had  also  arrived. 

The  winter  house  was  completed  by  the  6th  of 
October,  and  received  the  name  of  Fort  Enterprise. 
It  was  merely  a  log  building,  divided  into  a  hall, 
three  bed-rooms,  and  a  kitchen.  The  walls  and 
roof  w^ere  plastered  with  mud,  and  the  floors  were 
of  planks  rudely  hewed  with  the  axe.  The  same 
implement  served  (with  the  assistance  of  the  crook- 
ed knife,)  to  construct  tables,  chairs,  and  bed- 
steads. The  crooked  knife  serves  the  Indian  and 
Canadian  for  plane,  chisel,  and  auger.  Snow-shoes 
and  canoe  timbers  are  made  with  it,  as  well  as 
bowls  and  spoons ;  and  with  it  the  deals  of  dog 
sledges  are  reduced  to  their  requisite  thinness  and 
pohsh. 

Two  men  were  now^  appointed  to  fish,  and  others 
were  sent  for  meat  as  the  hunters  procured  it. 
This  latter  employment,  though  laborious,  is  Hked 
by  the  Canadians,  as  they  claim  a  right  to  help  them- 
selves to  the  best  parts.  The  reindeer  were  now 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  house,  and  the  success  of  the 
hunters  was  consequently  great.  Capt.  Franklin 
estimated  the  numbers  he  saw,  during  a  short  walk, 
at  two  thousand.  They  feed  on  the  lichens,  and  go 
in  herds  of  different  sizes,  from  ten  to  an  hundred 
in  each. 

On  the  18th,  Messrs  Back  and  Wentzel  set  out 
for  Fort  Providence,  to  make  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments  for  transporting  the   stores  expected  from 


r 


POLAR    REGIONS.  411 

Cumberland,  and  to  endeavour  to  procure  additional 
supplies  from  Slave  Lake.  Ammunition  was  essen- 
tial to  existence,  and  tobacco  was  requisite  as  well 
for  the  comfort  of  the  Canadians,  as  to  preserve  the 
friendship  of  the  Indians. 

On  the  26th,  Akaitcho  and  his  Indians  took  up 
their  quarters  at  the  house,  the  hunting  having  ter- 
minated in  the  neighbourhood,  on  account  of  the 
emigration   of  the  reindeer.      The   arrival  of  this 
party  was  a  serious  inconvenience,  as  the  w^ant  of 
ammunition  prevented  Capt.  Franklin  from  equip- 
ping them  for  hunting,  and  was  obhged  to  make 
large  issues  of  provisions  to  them.     Although  they 
are  accustomed  to  subsist  themselves  for  a  consid- 
erable part  of  the  year  by  fishing,   or  snaring  the 
deer,  without  having  recourse  to  fire-arms,  yet,  on 
the  present  occasion,  they  felt  little  inclined  to  do 
so,  and  gave  scope  to  their  natural  love  of  ease,  as 
long  as  the  store-house  seemed  to  be  well  stocked. 
Nevertheless,  as  they  were  conscious  of  impairing 
future  resources,  they  did  not  fail,  occasionally,  to 
remind  the  Captain  that  it  was  not  their  fault,  to 
express  an  ardent  desire  to  go  hunting,  and  to  re- 
quest a  supply  of  ammunition,,  although  they  knew 
that  it  was  not  in  his  power  to  give  it. 

The  fishing,  having  failed  as  the  weather  became 
more  severe,  was  given  up  on  the  5th  of  JNTovember. 
It  had  procured  about  one  thousand  two  hundred 
white  fish,  from  two  to  three  pounds  each.  There 
are  two  other  species  of  Covegoni  in  Winter  Lake, 
Backus  grayling  and  the  round  fish;  and  a  few  trouty 
pikey  methye,  and  red  carp,  were  also  occasionally 


412  POLAR    REGIONS. 

obtained  from  the  nets.  It  may  be  worthy  of  no- 
tice here,  that  the  fish  froze  as  they  were  taken  out 
of  the  nets,  in  a  short  time  became  a  sohd  mass  of 
ice,  and  by  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet  were  easi- 
ly spht  open,  when  the  intestines  might  be  removed 
in  one  lump.  If  in  this  completely  frozen  state  they 
w^ere  thawed  before  the  fire,  they  recovered  their 
animation.  This  was  particularly  the  case  with  the 
carp,  and  it  was  observed  repeatedly,  as  Dr  Rich- 
ardson occupied  himself  in  examining  the  structure 
of  the  different  species  of  fish,  and  was  always,  in 
the  winter,  under  the  necessity  of  thawing  before 
he  could  cut  them.  We  have  seen  a  carp  recover 
so  far  as  to  leap  about  with  much  vigour,  after  it 
had  been  frozen  for  thirtysix  hours. 

On  the  23d  of  November,  a  messenger  arrived 
with  letters  from  Fort  Providence,  some  of  which 
w^ere  dated  in  England  the  preceding  April.  The 
party  were  not  so  fortunate  with  regard  to  their 
stores,  some  of  which  had  been  left  on  the  road 
from  York  Factory,  by  the  misconduct  of  the  per- 
son to  whom  they  were  intrusted.  They  were 
more  fortunate  in  the  arrival  of  two  Esquimaux  in- 
terpreters at  Slave  Lake. 

There  was  much  trouble  this  winter  in  bringing 
forward  the  necessary  stores,  and  a  report,  to  the 
disadvantage  of  the  oflficers,  which  was  circulated 
among  the  Indians  by  one  of  the  traders  at  Slave 
Lake,  proved  a  serious  detriment,  as  it  shook  the 
confidence  of  the  savages  in  their  ability  to  reward 
them. 

Having  received  one  hundred  balls   from  Fort 


POLAR  REGIONS.  413 

Providence  by  the  messenger,  Capt.  Franklin  dis- 
tributed  them   among   the   Indians,  informing  the 
leader  at  the  same  time,  that  the  residence  of  so 
large  a  party  as  his  at  the  house,  amounting,  with 
women  and  children,  to  forty  persons,  was  producing 
a  serious  reduction  in  the  stock  of  provisions.     He 
acknowledged   the  justice    of  the   statement,  and 
promised  to  remove  as  soon  as  his  party  had  prepared 
snow-shoes   and  sledges  for  themselves.      Under 
one  pretext  or  other,  however,  their  departure  was 
delayed  until  the  10th  of  the  month,  when  they  left 
the  house,  having  previously  received  one   of  the 
fishing-nets,  and  all  the  ammunition  at  the  post. 
The  leader  left  his  aged  mother  with  two  female  at- 
tendants, requesting  that  if  she  died  during  his  ab- 
sence she  might  be  buried  at  a  distance  from  the 
fort,  that  he  might  not  be  reminded  of  his  loss  when 
he  visited  them. 

Keskarrah,  the  guide,  also  remained,  with  his 
wife  and  daughter,  being  too  old  and  feeble  to  hunt.- 
While  speaking  of  this  family  we  may  remark  that 
the    daughter,    called   Green    Stockings    from    her 
dress,  is  considered  to  be  a  beauty  by  her  tribe. 
Mr  Hood  drew  her  portrait,  though  her  mothei*  was 
averse  to  her  sitting  for  it.     She   was  afraid,  she 
said,  that  her  daughter's  hkeness  w^ould  induce  the 
great  chief  of  England  to  send  for  the  original. 
The  young  lady,  however,  was  not  deterred  by  any 
such  fear.     Though  under  sixteen  years  of  age,  she 
had  already  been  an  object  of  contention  between  her 
countrymen,  had  belonged  to  two  husbands,  and 
35* 


I 


414  POLAR   REGIONS. 

would  probably  have  been  the  wife  of  many  more, 
had  not  her  mother  required  her  services  as  a  nurse. 

The  weather  in  December  was  the  coldest  Capt. 
Franklin  had  experienced  in  America.  At  one 
time,  the  mercury  sunk  to  57°  below  zero,  and  never 
rose  beyond  6°  above  it ;  the  mean  for  the  month 
was  — 29°.  During  this  intense  cold  the  air  was 
generally  calm,  and  the  wood-cutters  went  about 
their  ordinary  occupations  without  any  extraordina- 
ry precautions,  and  without  feehng  any  bad  effects. 
They  wore  shirts  of  reindeer  skin,  leathern  mittens, 
and  fur  caps ;  but  none  of  them  used  any  defence 
for  the  face  or  needed  any. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  the  reader  to  know  how 
the  travellers  passed  their  time  at  this  season.  A 
considerable  portion  of  it  was  occupied  in  writing 
their  journals.  Newspapers  and  letters  from  Eng- 
land were  read  and  commented  on,  again  and  again. 
In  the  evenings  the  officers  joined  the  men  in  the 
hall  and  took  part  in  their  games.  Charts  were 
made,  drawings  taken,  and  in  short  so  various  were 
their  resources  that  the  time  was  never  found  to 
hang  heavy. 

Their  diet  was  of  reindeer  flesh,  varied  twice  a 
week  by  fish,  and  occasionally  by  a  little  flour,  but 
they  had  no  vegetables  whatever.  On  Sundays  they 
had  chocolate,  but  their  greatest  luxury  was  tea 
(without  sugar,)  of  which  they  regularly  partook 
twice  a  day.  With  reindeer  fat  and  strips  of  cotton 
shirts  they  made  candles,  and  John  Hepburn  ac- 
quired considerable  skill  in  the  manufacture  of 
soap,  from  the  wood  ashes,  salt  and  fat. 


I 


POLAR  REGIONS.  415 

On  the  15th  of  January,  seven  of  their  men,  who 
had  been  with  Mr  Back,  returned,  with  a  supply  of 
rum,  powder,  tobacco,  and  clothing.  They  had 
been  twentyone  days  on  the  road  from  Slave  Lake, 
and  their  labor  was  evinced  by  their  sledge  col- 
lars having  worn  out  the  shoulders  of  their  coats. 
Their  loads  weighed  from  sixty  to  ninety  pounds 
each,  exclusive  of  their  bedding  and  provisions. 
Such  are  the  ordinary  winter  employments  of  the 
Canadian  voyageurs.  The  spirits,  which  were  proof, 
were  frozen,  but  after  standing  some  time  by  the 
fire,  they  acquired  the  consistency  of  honey.  The 
temperature  of  the  liquid,  even  in  this  state  was  so 
low  as  instantly  to  convert  the  moisture  which  con- 
densed on  the  surface  of  the  dram  glass  into  ice. 
Yet  each  of  the  voyageurs  swallowed  his  dram  with- 
out inconvenience,  or  complaining  of  the  toothache. 

Captain  Franklin  was  afterwards  informed  that 
his  carriers  had  broached  the  cask  on  the  way,  and 
had  spent  two  days  in  drinking ;  which  shows  how 
little  confidence  can  be  placed  in  a  voyageur, 
where  food  or  spirits  are  in  question. 

On  the  27th,  Mr  Wentzel  arrived  with  the  two 
Esquimaux  interpreters,  whose  names  were  Augus- 
tus and  Junius.  The  former  spoke  English.  On 
comparing  the  language  of  these  men  with  a  copy 
of  St  John's  Gospel,  printed  for  the  Moravian  mis- 
sionary settlements  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  it  ap- 
peared to  be  radically  and  essentially  the  same. 
These  interpreters  belonged  to  a  tribe  which  re- 
sides a  little  northward  of  Churchill.  They  were 
thorough  Esquimaux,  having  but  a  very  indistinct 
idea  of  the  Deity. 


416  POLAR    REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Message  from  the  Plook. — Conduct  of  the  Interpreters. — Akaitcho. — April. 
— Suffering  of  the  Indians. — Sliding  down  Hill. — Advance  of  the  Sea- 
son.— A  Supply  of  Food. — May  Weather. — Arrival  of  Water-Fowl. — 
Akaitcho  arrives. — His  Conduct. 

In  February  the  temperature  was  lower  than  in 
the  preceding  month,  though  not  so  low  as  in  De- 
cember, the  mean  being  — 25°. 

On  the  5th  of  March,  the  rest  of  the  people  ar- 
rived from  Slave  Lake  with  the  remainder  of  the 
expected  stores.     On  the  23d,  the  winter's  stock  of 
provisions  were  expended,  and  the  nets  produced 
but  two  or  three  fishes  per  diem.     On  the  following 
day,  two  Indians  arrived  with  a  message  from  the 
Hook,   the    chief  next   in   authority   to   Akaitcho 
among  the   Copper  Indians.      His  band  was  en- 
camped near  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  he  offered  to 
provide  a  quantity  of  dried  meat  on  the  banks  of  the 
Coppermine  early  in  the  summer,  provided  Captain 
Franklin  would  furnish  him  with  goods  and  ammu- 
nition.    The  Captain  had  none  to  spare,  but  told 
the  messengers  that  he  would  gladly  receive  leather 
or  food  from  the  Hook  at  their  meeting,  and  would 
pay  for  them  by  notes  on  the  Northwest  Company's 
Post  at  Slave  Lake.     The  Indians  assured  him  that 
the  Hook  would  look  anxiously  for  his  passing. 

It  now  appeared  that  St  Germain,  the  inter- 
preter, had  created  a  new  difficulty.  In  his  inter- 
course  with   the    Indians  he  had  imbibed  fearful 


POLAR  REGIONS,  417 

ideas  of  the  danger  of  the  enterprise,  which  aug- 
mented as  the  time  of  departure  drew  nigh.  He 
and  Adam,  the  other  Hnguist,  expressed  their  dishke 
to  the  journey  in  strong  terms,  to  the  voyageurs 
and  Indians,  who  are  accustomed  to  pay  much 
deference  to  the  opinions  of  an  interpreter.  For 
this  conduct  Capt.  Franklin  called  St  Germain  to 
account,  threatening  to  send  him  to  England  for 
trial,  if  the  expedition  should  be  stopped  through 
his  fault.  After  this  menace,  he  was  more  circum- 
spect in  his  behaviour. 

On  the  29th,  Akaitcho  arrived  at  the  house,  and 
was  the  next  morning  summoned  to  a  conference 
which  commenced  by  showing  liim  the  maps  and 
charts,  and  explaining  future  Ln'ientions.  He  was 
greatly  pleased  with  this  mark  of  respect,  and  be- 
gan his  speech  by  saying,  '  that,  though  a  great  num* 
ber  of  idle  reports  had  been  flying  about  the  barren 
grounds,'  he  was  convinced  that,  the  officers  had 
told  him  nothing  but  the  truth.  He  promised  that 
his  people  should  accompany  the  expedition  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Coppermine  with  as  Utile  delay  as 
possible ;  and  if  they  did  not  meet  with  Esquimaux 
there,  that  they  should  proceed  still  farther  along 
the  coast.  He  was  anxious,  he  said,  to  have  a 
friendly  interview  with  the  Esquimaux,  and  he  far- 
ther requested  that  if  any  of  the  party  should  meet 
the  Dog  Ribs,  they  would  endeavour  to  persuade 
them  to  live  on  friendly  terms  with  his  tribe. 

The  commencement  of  April  was  fine,  and  for 
several  days  a  considerable  thaw  took  place  in  the 
heat  of  the  sun,  which,  laying  bare  some  of  the  lich- 


418  POLAR  REGIONS. 

ens  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  produced  a  consequent 
movement  of  the  reindeer  to  the  northward,  and  in- 
duced the  Indians  to  beheve  that  the  spring  was  al- 
ready commencing.  Many  of  them,  therefore,  quit- 
ted the  woods,  and  set  their  snares  on  the  barren 
grounds  near  Fort  Enterprise.  Two  or  three  days 
of  cold  weather,  however,  toward  the  middle  of 
the  month,  damped  their  hopes,  and  they  began  to 
say  that  another  moon  must  elapse  before  the  arri- 
val of  the  wished-for  season.  In  the  mean  time, 
their  premature  departure  from  the  woods  caused 
them  to  suffer  from  want  of  food,  and  the  whites 
were  in  some  degree  involved  in  their  distress.  No 
supphes  were  received  from  the  hunters,  the  nets 
produced  but  very  few  fish,  and  the  pounded  meat, 
which  it  was  intended  to  keep  for  summer  use,  was 
nearly  expended. 

The  Indian  families  about  the  house,  consisting 
principally  of  women  and  children,  suffered  most. 
Capt.  Franklin  had  often  requested  them  to  move 
to  Akaitcho's  lodge,  where  they  were  more  certain 
of  receiving  supplies ;  but  as  most  of  them  were 
sick  or  infirm,  they  did  not  like  to  quit  the  house, 
where  they  daily  received  medicines  from  Dr  Rich- 
ardson, to  encounter  the  fatigue  of  following  the 
movements  of  a  hunting  camp.  They  cleared  away 
the  snow  on  the  site  of  the  autumn  encampments, 
to  look  for  bones,  deer's  feet,  bits  of  hide,  and  other 
offal.  When  the  officers  beheld  them  gnawing 
the  pieces  of  hide,  and  pounding  the  bones  for  the 
purpose  of  extracting  some  nourishment  from  them 
by  boiling,  they  regretted  their  inability  to  relieve 


POLAR   REGIONS.  419 

them,  but  little  thought  that  they  should  themselves 
be  afterwards  driven  to  the  necessity  of  eagerly 
collecting  these  same  bones  a  second  time  from  the 
dunghill. 

At  this  time,  to  divert  the  attention  of  the  men 
from  their  wants,  they  were  encouraged  in  the 
practice  of  sliding  down  the  steep  bank  of  the  river 
upon  sledges.  These  vehicles  descended  the  snowy 
bank  with  much  velocity,  and  ran  a  great  distance 
upon  the  ice.  The  officers  joined  in  the  sport,  and 
the  numerous  overturns  they  experienced  formed 
no  small  share  of  the  amusement  of  the  party ;  but 
on  one  occasion,  when  Capt.  Frankhn  had  been 
thrown  from  his  seat  and  almost  buried  in  the  snow, 
a  fat  Indian  woman  drove  her  sledge  over  him,  and 
sprained  his  knee  severely. 

On  the  21st,  the  ice  in  the  river  was  measured 
and  found  to  be  five  feet  thick,  and  in  setting  the 
nets  in  Round  Rock  Lake,  it  was  there  ascertained 
to  be  six  feet  and  a  half  thick,  the  water  being  six 
fathoms  deep.  The  stomachs  of  some  fish  were  at 
this  time  opened  by  Dr  Richardson,  and  found  filled 
with  insects,  which  appear  to  exist  in  abundance 
under  the  ice  during  the  winter. 

On  the  22d,  a  moose-deer  w^as  killed  at  the  dis- 
tance of  fortyfive  miles  ;  St  Germain  went  for  it 
with  a  dog-sledge,  and  returned  with  unusual  expe- 
dition on  the  morning  of  the  third  day.  This  sup- 
ply was  soon  exhausted,  and  the  party  passed  the 
27th  without  eating,  with  the  prospect  of  fasting  a 
day  or  two  longer,  when  old  Keskarrah  entered 
with  the  unexpected  intelligence  of  having  killed  a 


420  POLAR    REGIONS. 

deer.  It  was  divided  between  the  whites  and  the 
Indians,  and  during  the  night  a  seasonable  supply 
arrived  from  Akaitcho.  Augustus  returned  with 
the  men  who  brought  it,  much  pleased  with  the  at- 
tention he  had  received  from  the  Indians  during  a 
visit  to  Akaitcho. 

The  weather  in  the  beginning  of  May  was  fine  and 
warm.  On  the  2d,  some  patches  of  sandy  ground 
near  the  house  were  cleared  of  snow.  On  the  7th, 
the  sides  of  the  hills  began  to  appear  bare  ;  and  on 
the  8th,  a  large  house-fly  was  seen.  This  interest- 
ing event  spread  cheerfulness  through  the  resi- 
dence, and  formed  a  topic  of  conversation  for  the 
rest  of  the  day. 

On  the  9th,  the  approach  of  spring  was  still  more 
agreeably  confirmed  by  the  appearance  of  a  mer- 
gansor  and  two  gulls,  and  some  loons,  or  arctic  di- 
vers, at  the  rapid.  This  day,  to  lessen  the  labor  of 
-  dragging  meat  to  the  house,  the  women  and  chil- 
dren and  all  the  men,  except  four,  were  sent  to  live 
at  the  Indian  tents. 

The  blue-berries,  crow-berries,  eye-berries,  and 
cran-berries,  which  had  been  covered,  and  protected 
by  the  snow  during  the  winter,  might  at  this  time 
be  gathered  in  abundance,  and  proved  indeed  a 
valuable  resource.  The  ground  continued  frozen, 
but  the  heat  of  the  sun  had  a  visible  effect  on  veg- 
etation ;  the  sap  thawed  in  the  pine-trees,  the 
mosses  were  beginning  to  shoot,  and  the  calyptrae^j 
of  some  of  the  jungermanniae  were  already  visible. 
A  robin  appeared  on  the  14th.  This  bird  is  hailed 
by  the  natives  as  the  infallible  precursor  of  warm 


POLAR    REGIONS.  421 

weather.  Ducks  and  geese  were  also  seen  in 
numbers,  and  the  reindeer  advanced  to  the  north- 
ward. The  merganser,  which  preys  upon  smal 
fish,  was  the  first  of  the  duck  tribe  that  appeared  ; 
next  came  the  teal,  which  lives  upon  small  insects 
that  abound  in  the  waters  at  this  season ;  and  lastly 
the  goose,  which  feeds  upon  berries  and  herbage. 
Geese  usually  appear  at  Cumberland  House,  in 
latitude  54%  about  the  12th  of  April;  at  Fort  Chip- 
pewyan,  in  latitude  59^  on  the  25th  of  April ;  at 
Slave  Lake,  in  latitude  6V,  on  the  1st  of  May  ;  and 
at  Fort  Enterprise,  in  latitude  64°  28',  on  the  12th 
or  14th  of  the  same  month. 

On  the  21st,  Akaitcho  arrived  at  Fort  Enterprise 
and  was  saluted  by  a  discharge  of  small-arms.  He 
led  the  way,  preceded  by  his  standard-bearer,  and 
advanced  with  a  slow  and  stately  step  to  the  door, 
where  Mr  Wentzel  and  Capt.  Franklin  received 
him.  The  faces  of  the  party  were  daubed  with 
vermilion,  the  old  men  having  a  spot  on  the  right 
cheek,  the  young  ones  on  the  left.  Akaitcho  him- 
self was  not  painted.  On  entering  he  sat  down  on 
a  chest ;  the  rest  placed  themselves  in  a  circle  on 
the  floor.  The  pipe  was  passed  once  or  twice 
round,  and  in  the  mean  time  a  bowl  of  spirits  and 
water,  and  a  considerable  present  of  cloth,  blankets, 
capots,  shirts,  &c.  was  placed  on  the  floor  for  the 
chiefs  acceptance,  and  distribution  amongst  his 
people.  Akaitcho  then  commenced  his  speech, 
but  we  regret  to  say,  that  it  was  very  discouraging, 
and  indicated  that  he  had  parted  with  his  good  hu- 
mor, at  least  since  his  March  visit.  He  first  in- 
36 


422  POLAR    REGIONS. 

quired,  whether,  in  the  event  of  a  passage  by  sea 
being  discovered,  the  party  would  come  to  his  lands 
in  any  ship  that  might  be  sent.  Being  answer- 
ed that  it  was  probable,  but  not  quite  certain, 
that  some  one  among  them  might  come,  he  ex- 
pressed a  hope  that  some  suitable  present  would  be 
forwarded  to  himself  and  nation :  *  for,'  said  he,  '  the 
great  chief  who  commands  where  all  the  goods 
come  from,  must  see  from  the  drawings  and  de- 
scriptions of  us  and  our  country  that  we  are  a  mis- 
erable people.'  Capt.  Franklin  assured  him  that 
he  should  be  remembered,  provided  he  faithfully 
fulfilled  his  engagement. 

He  next  complained  of  the  non-payment  of  the 
Captain's  notes  by  Mr  Weeks,  the  trader  at  Slave 
Lake,  from  which  he  apprehended  that  his  own  re- 
ward would  be  withheld.  '  If,'  said  he,  *  your  notes 
to  such  a  trifling  amount  are  not  accepted  while 
you  are  within  such  a  short  distance,  and  can  hold 
communication  with  the  fort,  it  is  not  probable  that 
the  large  reward,  which  has  been  promised  to  my- 
self and  party,  will  be  paid  when  you  are  far  distant, 
on  your  way  to  your  own  country.  It  really  ap- 
pears to  me,'  he  continued,  '  as  if  both  the  Com- 
panies consider  your  party  as  a  third  company,  hos- 
tile to  their  interests,  and  that  neither  of  them  w 
pay  the  notes  you  give  to  the  Indians.' 

Afterwards,  in  the  course  of  a  long  conference, 
he  enumerated  many  other  grounds  of  dissatisfac- 
tion ;  the  principal  of  which  were,  w^ant  of  attention 
to  him,  as  chief,  the  weakness  of  the  rum  formerly 
sent  to  him,  the  smallness  of  the  present  now  of- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  423 

fered,  and  the  want  of  the  chiefs  clothing,  which 
he  had  been  accustomed  to  receive  at  Fort  Provi- 
dence every  spring.  He  concluded  by  refusing  to 
receive  the  goods  now  laid  before  him. 

We  will  now  refer  our  readers  to  the  next  chap- 
ter for  the  result  of  these  proceedings. 


CHAPTER   X. 

Captain  Franklin's  Reply  to  Akaitcho. — The  Copper  Indians. — Keskairah. — 
Marriages. — Wars. — Numbers. — The  Dog-Ribs. — Their  Character. — Res- 
idence and  Numbers. — The  Hare  Indians. — The  Gluarrellers — Other 
Tribes. — Behaviour  of  Akaitcho. — The  first  Party  leaves  Fort  Enterprise. 

In  reply  to  the  complaints  of  Akaitcho,  Captain 
Franklin  said  that  no  dependence  should  be  placed 
on  vague  reports.  He  had  heard  a  great  many  to 
the  disadvantage  of  Akaitcho,  but,  had  given  them 
no  credit.  Moreover,  the  rum  which  had  been  sent 
to  him  was  such  as  was  drank  by  the  great  men  in 
England,  milder  in  taste,  but  stronger  in  reality 
than  that  which  he  had  been  accustomed  to  receive. 
The  party  had  not  been  able  to  bring  large  quanti- 
ties of  goods  like  the  traders  ;  but  in  consideration 
of  his  not  receiving  the  usual  spring  outfit,  his  debts 
to  the  company  had  been  cancelled,  and  a  present 
much  larger  than  he  had  ever  before  received  was 
to  be  got  ready  for  him  on  his  return.  The  Captain 
farther  said,  that  he  was  much  disappointed  in  not 
receiving  the  dried  meat  he  had  promised,  and  that, 
in  fact,  his  complaints  were  so  groundless,  in  com- 


424  POLAR    REGIONS. 

parison  with  the  injury  resulting  to  the  expedition 
from  his  breach  of  promise,  that  he  beheved  they 
were  preferred  to  cloak  his  own  want  of  good  faith. 

Akaitcho  then  shifted  his  ground,  advising  that 
the  enterprise  should  be  abandoned,  on  the  score  of 
danger,  and  at  last  showed  some  disposition  toward 
a  reconcihation.  St  Germain  exerted  himself  much 
to  effect  a  change  in  the  savages,  and  in  some  de- 
gree succeeded.  Before  we  proceed  farther  in 
our  narrative,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  give  some  ac- 
count of  these  Copper  Indians. 

They  are  called  by  the  Chippewyans  Tantsawhot- 
dimieh,  or  Birch-rind  people.  They  were  original- 
ly, according  to  their  own  account,  Chippewyans, 
and  lived  on  the  south  side  of  Slave  Lake.  Their 
language,  traditions,  and  customs  are  essentially 
the  same  as  those  of  the  Chippewyans,  but  in 
personal  character  they  have  greatly  the  advantage 
of  that  people,  owing  probably  to  local  causes,  or 
perhaps  to  their  procuring  their  food  more  easily 
and  in  greater  abundance.  They  hold  women  in 
the  same  low  estimation  as  the  Chippewyans  do, 
looking  upon  them  as  a  kind  of  property  which  the 
stronger  may  take  from  the  weaker  whenever  there 
is  just  reason  for  quarrelling,  if  the  parties  are  of 
their  own  nation,  or  whenever  they  meet,  if  the 
weaker  party  are  Dog-Ribs  or  other  strangers. 
They  suffer,  however,  the  kinder  affections  to  show 
themselves  occasionally  :  they  in  general  live  happy 
with  their  wives  :  the  women  are  contented  with 
their  lot.  Our  travellers  witnessed  several  instances 
of  strong  attachment. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  425 

Of  their  religion,  or  ideas  of  a  future  state,  we 
have  no  accounts,  as  they  are  averse  to  speak  of 
their  opinions,  for  fear  of  ridicule.  Akaitcho  always 
evaded  questions  on  this  subject,  but  evinced  a 
strong  desire  to  learn. 

This  chief,  and  many  of  his  tribe,  possessed  a 
strong  curiosity.  Capt.  Franklin  thought  that  a 
Christian  mission  might  produce  a  happy  effect  in 
this  quarter.  The  old  guide  Keskarrah  alone  used 
boldly  to  express  his  disbehef  of  the  existence  of 
a  supreme  being,  and  to  give  his  reasons,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  was,  that  though  an  old  man  he  had 
never  seen  God  himself.  This  aged  sceptic  was  a 
little  conceited,  as  appears  from  the  following  ex- 
ordium to  one  of  his  speeches  : — '  It  is  very  strange 
that  I  never  meet  with  any  one  as  wise  as  myself.' 

Few  of  this  nation  have  more  than  one  wife  at  a 
time,  and  none. but  the  chiefs  have  more  than  two. 
The  same  man  frequently  marries  sisters ;  and  cou- 
sins intermarry ;  but  no  union  takes  place  between 
uncle  and  niece. 

The  last  war  excursion  they  made  against  the 
Esquimaux  was  about  eighteen  years  ago,  when 
they  destroyed  thirty  persons  at  the  mouth  of  what 
they  term  Stoney  Point  .River,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Coppermine.  Formerly,  when  they  were  destitute 
of  fire-arms,  they  were  oppressed  by  the  Chippe- 
wyans  ;  but  since  they  have  received  weapons  from 
the  traders,  the  Chippewyans  do  not  care  to  venture 
on  their  lands,  and  all  of  that  nation  who  live  about 
Slave  Lake  hold  the  name  of  Akaitcho  in  great  re- 
spect. 

36* 


426  POLAR    REGIONS. 

The  number  of  Copper  Indians  may  be  one  hun- 
dred and  ninety,  viz.  eighty  males,  and  the  rest  wo- 
men and  young  children.  At  the  time  of  our  story 
there  were  fortyfive  hunters  in  the  tribe.  The  ad» 
herents  of  Akaitcho  are  forty  men  and  boys,  the 
rest  follow  other  chiefs. 

The  Thlingcha-dinneh,  or  Dog-Ribs,  or,  as  they 
are  sometimes  termed  by  the  Crees,  who  former- 
ly warred  against  them.  Slaves,  inhabit  the  country 
to  the  westward  of  the  Copper  Indians,  as  far  as 
the  Mackenzie's  River.  They  are  of  a  mild,  hos- 
pitable, but  rather  indolent  disposition ;  spend  much 
of  their  time  in  amusements,  and  are  fond  of  sing- 
ing and  dancing.  In  this  respect,  and  in  another, 
they  differ  very  widely  from  most  of  the  other 
aborigines  of  North  America.  We  allude  to  their 
kind  treatment  of  the  women.  The  men  do  the 
laborious  work,  while  their  wives  employ  themselves 
in  ornamenting  their  dresses  with  quill -work,  and 
in  other  occupations  suited  to  their  sex.  Kind 
treatment  of  the  fair  sex  being  usually  considered 
as  an  indication  of  considerable  progress  in  civiliza- 
tion, it  might  be  worth  while  to  inquire  how  it  hap- 
pens, that  this  tribe  has  stept  so  far  beyond  its 
neighbours.  It  has  had,  undoubtedly,  the  same 
common  origin  with  the  Chippewyans ;  for  their 
languages  differ  only  in  accent,  and  their  mode  of 
life  is  essentially  the  same.  We  have  not  sufficient 
data  to  prosecute  the  inquiry  with  any  hope  of  suc- 
cess ;  but  we  may  recall  to  the  reader's  memory, 
that  the  Dog-Ribs  say  they  came  from  the  westward, 
whilst  the  Chippewyans  say  that  they  migrated 
from  the  eastward. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  427 

The  chief  tribe  of  the  Dog-rib  nation,  termed 
Horn  Mountain  Indians,  inhabit  the  country  between 
Great  Bear  Lake  and  the  west  end  of  Great  Slave 
Lake.  They  muster  about  two  hundred  men  and 
boys  capable  of  pursuing  the  chase.  Small  detach- 
ments of  the  nation  frequent  Marten  Lake,  and  hunt 
during  the  summer  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fort 
Enterprise.  Indeed  this  part  of  the  country  was 
formerly  exclusively  theirs,  and  most  of  the  lakes 
and  remarkable  hills  bear  the  names  which  they 
imposed  upon  them.  As  the  Copper  Indians  gen- 
erally pillage  them  of  their  women  and  furs  when 
they  meet,  they  endeavour  to  avoid  them,  and  visit 
their  ancient  quarters  on  the  barren  grounds  only 
by  stealth. 

Immediately  to  the  northward  of  the  Dog-Ribs, 
on  the  north  side  of  Bear  Lake  River,  are  the 
KawchO'dinneh,  or  Hare  Indians,  who  also  speak  a 
dialect  of  the  Chippewyan  language,  have  much 
the  same  manners  with  the  Dog-Ribs,  and  ajre 
considered  both  by  them  and  by  the  Copper  Indians 
to  be  great  conjurers.  These  people  report,  that 
in  their  hunting  excursions  to  the  northward  of 
Great  Bear  Lake,  they  meet  small  parties  of  Es- 
quimaux. 

Immediately  to  the  northward  of  the  Hare  In- 
dians, on  both  banks  of  Mackenzie's  River,  are  the 
Tykothee-dinneh,  Loucheux,  Squint-Eyes,  or  Quar- 
rellers.  They  speak  a  language  distinct  from  the 
Chippewyan.  They  ^w^r  often  with  the  Esquimaux 
at  the  mouth  of  Mackenzie's  River,  but  have  occa- 
sionally some  peaceable  intercourse  with  them,  and 


428  POLAR    REGIONS. 

it  would  appear  that  they  find  no  difficulty  in  un- 
derstanding each  other,  there  being  considerable 
similarity  in  their  languages.  Their  dress  also  re- 
sembles the  Esquimaux,  and  differs  from  that  of 
the  other  inhabitants  of  Mackenzie's  River.  The 
Tykothee-dinneh  trade  with  Fort  Good-Hope,  sit- 
uated a  considerable  distance  below  the  confluence 
of  Bear  Lake  River  with  the  Mackenzie's  River, 
and  within  three  days  march  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  It 
is  the  most  northern  estabhshment  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  and  some  small  pieces  of  Russian  cop- 
per coin  once  made  their  way  thither  across  the 
continent  from  the  westward.  Blue  or  white  beads 
are  almost  the  only  articles  of  European- manufac- 
ture coveted  by  the  Loucheux.  They  perforate 
the  septum  of  the  nose,  and  insert  in  the  opening 
three  small  shells,  which  they  procure  at  a  high 
price  from  the  Esquimaux. 

On  the  west  bank  of  Mackenzie's  River  there 
are  several  tribes  who  speak  dialects  of  the  Chip- 
pewyan  language,  that  have  not  hitherto  been  men- 
tioned. The  first  met  with,  on  tracing  the  river  to 
the  southward  from  Fort  Good-Hope,  are  the  Am- 
bawtawhoot-dinneh,  or  Sheep  Indians.  They  inhab- 
it the  Rocky  Mountains  near  the  sources  of  the 
Dawhoot-dinneh  River,  which  flows  into  Macken- 
zie's, and  are  but  httle  known  to  the  traders.  Some 
of  them  have  visited  Fort  Good-Hope.  A  report 
of  their  being  cannibals  may  have  originated  in  an 
imperfect  knowledge  of  thenk 

Some  distance  to  the  southward  of  this  people 
are  the  Rocky  Mountain  Indians,  a  small  tribe  which 


I 


POLAR  REGIONS.  429 

musters  about  forty  men  and  boys  capable  of  pur- 
suing the  chase.     They  differ  but  little  from  the 
next  we  are  about  to  mention,  the  Edchawtawhoot- 
dinneh,  Strong-Bow,  Beaver,  or  Thick-Wood   In- 
dians,   who   frequent   the  Riviere  aux  Liards,  or 
south  branch  of  Mackenzie's  River.     The  Strong- 
Bows  resemble  the  Dog-Ribs  somewhat  in  their  dis- 
position ;  but  when  they  meet,  they  assume  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  superiority  over  the  latter,  who 
meekly  submit  to  the  haughtiness  of  their  neigh- 
bours.    Until  the  year  1813,  when  a  small  party  of 
them,  from  some  unfortunate  provocation,  destroyed 
Fort  Nelson,  on  the  Riviere  aux  Liards,  and  mur- 
dered it^inmates,  the  Strong-Bows  were  considered 
to  be  a  friendly  and  quiet  tribe,  and  esteemed  as 
excellent  hunters.     They  take  their  names,  in  the 
first  instance,  from  their  dogs,     A  young  man  is 
the  father  of  a  certain  dog ;  but  when  he  is  married 
and  has  a  son,  he  styles  himself  the  father  of  the 
boy.     The  w^omen  have  a  habit  of  reproving  the 
dogs  very  tenderly,  when  they  observe  them  fight- 
ing.— '  Are  you  not  ashamed,'  say  they,  '  are  you 
not  ashamed  to  quarrel  -with  your  little  brother?' 
The  dogs  appear  to  understand  the  reproof,  and  ' 
sneak  off. 

The  number  of  men  and  boys  of  the  Strong-Bow 
nation  who  are  capable  of  hunting  may  amount  to 
seventy. 

There  are  some  other  tribes  who  also  speak  dia- 
lects of  the  Chippewyan,  upon  the  upper  branches  of 
the  Riviere  aux  Liards,  such  as  the  JVohhannies 
and  the  Tsillawdaivhoot-dinneh,  or  Brush-wood  In- 


430  POLAR    REGIONS. 

dians.  They  are  but  little  known,  but  the  latter 
are  supposed  occasionally  to  visit  some  of  the  es- 
tablishments on  Peace  River. 

Having  now  briefly  communicated  the  principal 
facts  relative  to  the  Indians  in  this  quarter,  we  re- 
turn to  the  proceedings  of  Captain  Franklin  and  his 
party. 

Akaitcho  was  still  unwilling  to  proceed,  and  com- 
plained that  the  immediate  supply  of  goods  was  in- 
adequate to  fulfil  his  expectations,  and  after  much 
importunity  declared  that  he  would  not  except  what 
was  off'ered.  His  people,  however,  declared  their 
willingness  to  go  on,  and  he  was  compelled  to  sub- 
mit. 

The  first  party  started  from  Fort  Enterprise  on 
the  4th  of  June,  under  Doctor  Richardson.  It  con- 
sisted of  fifteen  voyageurs,  four  Indians,  and  some 
squaws.  They  had  with  them  three  dog  sledges, 
and  each  of  the  men  carried  a  burthen  of  eighty 
pounds,  exclusive  of  personal  baggage.  Akaitcho 
and  his  people  departed  on  the  same  day,  with  in- 
structions to  proceed  to  Point  Lake,  and  collect 
provisions, 


POLAR  REGIONS.  431 


CHAPTER  XL 


Captain  Franklin  leaves  Fort  Enterprise.— Sufferings  of  the  Men.—The 
Coppermine.— Musk  Oxen  killed.— The  Hook.— Portage  to  Great 
Bear  Lake.— Rapids. — The  Copper  Mountains. — The  Interpreters  con- 
verse with  the  Esquimaux.— Flight  of  the  Esquimaux.— The  Esqui- 
maux seen  again. — An  old  Savage. 

On-  the  13th,  the  men  returned  to  Fort  Enterprise, 
having  left  Dr  Richardson  at  Point  Lake,  where 
the  ice  had  not  yet  begun  to  decay.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  14th,  Capt.  Franklin  started  with  the  ca- 
noes and  the  remainder  of  the  stores.  Being 
heavily  laden,  they  only  made  five  miles  this  day. 

Marten  Lake,  through  which  the  route  lay  is  ex- 
tensive, with  large  arms,  which  branch  out  in  differ- 
ent directions.  After  passing  this,  the  party  came, 
on  the  20th,  to  the  ridge  which  separates  the  streams 
which  flow  into  Winter  Lake  from  those  which 
run  northward.  Near  the  base  of  this  ridge  they 
crossed  a  small,  rapid  stream,  in  which  there  is  a 
cascade  fifty  feet  high.  The  next  day  they  reached 
Point  Lake,  where  the  ice  was  still  six  or  seven 
feet  thick.  Here  they  remained  till  the  25th,  to 
procure  provisions  for  the  journey. 

They  then  started,  dragging  the  canoes  and  bag- 
gage over  the  ice,  but,  owing  to  the  depth  of  the 
snow,  made  but  small  progress.  The  next  day  was 
extremely  hot,  and  the  men  were  soon  jaded  ;  in- 
deed most  of  them  were  already  lame.  Their  suf- 
ferings at  tins  early  stage  of  the  journey  induced 
Captain  Franklin  to  leave  one  of  the  canoes  be- 


432  POLAR   REGIONS. 

hind.  Even  with  this  relief  their  task  was  not 
easy.  The  surface  of  the  ice,  being  honey-combed 
by  recent  rains,  presented  innumerable  sharp  points, 
which  tore  their  mocasins,  and  lacerated  their  feet ; 
and  the  poor  dogs  marked  their  tracks  with  their 
blood. 

In  the  evening  of  the  28th,  the  party  reached  a 
rapid  by  which  Point  Lake  communicates  with  Red 
Rock  Lake,  and  were  surprised  at  finding  the 
Coppermine  an  inconsiderable  stream.  The  next 
day  they  passed  Red  Rock  Lake,  and  entered  ano- 
ther called  Rock  Nest  Lake,  from  a  remarkable 
Rock  on  its  shore.  They  crossed  it  on  the  ice, 
and  on  the  1st  of  July  embarked  on  the  Copper- 
mine River,  which  is  here  two  hundred  yards  wide 
and  ten  feet  deep,  and  flows  rapidly  over  a  rocky 
bottom.  The  scenery  of  its  banks  is  fine  ;  they  are 
well  clad  with  wood,  and  the  surfaces  of  the  rocks 
are  richly  ornamented  with  hchens.  The  same 
kind  of  country  prevails  in  the  same  parallel  as  far 
west  as  Mackenzie's  River ;  but  the  land  eastward  is 
entirely  barren. 

They  proceeded  down  the  river,  sometimes 
through  strong  rapids,  shooting  over  great  stones, 
where  a  single  false  stroke  of  a  paddle  would  have 
been  destructive.  In  some  places  the  channel  was 
blocked  up  by  drift  ice,  and  they  were  obliged  to 
cut  a  passage  for  the  canoes,  or  drag  them  over. 
As  they  proceeded,  the  river  became  wider,  always 
running  between  hills  of  moderate  elevation.  On 
the  4th,  the  hunters  killed  eight  musk  oxen.  Capt. 
Franklin  himself  wounded  one  of  these  animals, 


POLAR  REGIONS.  433 

which  instantly  attacked  him,  but  was  frightened 
away   by  the  arrival  of  some  of  the  people. 

On  the  evening  of  the  sixth,  the  party  encamped 
at  the  base  of  a  range  of  mountains  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  hundred  feet  high.  Near  this  place  the  chief 
called  the  Hook  was  encamped,  who,  without  so- 
licitation, gave  up  to  Captain  Franklin  all  the  meat 
he  had  collected,  expressing  his  regret  that  he  had 
no  more  to  bestow.  In  return  for  these  provisions 
he  accepted  an  order  on  the  Northwest  Company, 
to  be  paid  at  Fort  Providence. 

On  the  same  day,  after  passing  the  mountain 
range,  the  party  arrived  at  the  portage  leading  to 
Great  Bear  Lake,  at  the  westernmost  point  on  the 
Coppermine,  where  the  river  resumes  a  northern 
course  and  forces  a  passage  through  the  moun- 
tains. From  hence  to  Bear  Lake  the  distance  is 
about  forty  miles. 

Beyond  this  spot  the  river  diminishes  in  breadth, 
and  a  succession  of  rapids  is  formed.  It  still 
runs  between  high  ranges  of  mountains,  though  its 
actual  boundaries  are  banks  of  mud  mixed  with 
clay,  which  are  clothed  with  dwarf  pines. 

The  day  after  leaving  the  portage,  the  party  came 
to  a  place  where  the  river  is  contracted  between 
lofty  banks  to  the  width  of  an  hundred  and  twenty 
yards.  Just  beyond  this,  it  descends  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  through  a  deep  narrow  and  crooked  chan- 
nel, cut  through  the  foot  of  a  hill  five  or  six  hun- 
dred feet  high.  It  is  confined  between  perpendic- 
ular cliff's  like  walls,  and  rushing  furiously  through 
the  chasm,  discharges  itself  at  the  northern  extrem- 
37 


434  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ity  in  a  sheet  of  foam.     After  being  lightened,  the 
canoes  ran  through  this  defile  without  injury. 

On  the  11th,  the  party  reached  the  Copper 
Mountains,  from  which  the  river  derives  its  name. 
Pieces  of  native  copper  are  found  in  all  parts  of 
this  range,  of  which  the  aborigines  were  accus- 
tomed to  make  knives,  hatchets,  and  other  utensils, 
before  the  traders  came  among  them.  The  origin- 
al repository  of  the  metal  has  never  been  discov- 
ered. 

As  they  were  now  coming  to  the  Esquimaux 
country,  the  guides  recommended  caution  in  light- 
ing fires,  and  that  none  should  show  themselves  on 
the  tops  of  hills.  Throughout  the  12th,  they  found 
the  current  very  rapid,  the  stream  being  contracted 
between  perpendicular  walls  of  rock,  to  which 
large  masses  of  ice  still  adhered,  though  the  earth 
around  was  rich  with  vegetation.  At  night  they 
encamped  within  twelve  miles  of  a  rapid,  where  the 
Indians  said  the  Esquimaux  were  invariably  found  ; 
and  to  confirm  the  statement,  traces  of  these  peo- 
ple were  seen  near  the  spot.  That  there  might 
be  as  little  delay  as  possible  in  opening  a  commu- 
nication with  the  Esquimaux,  Augustus  and  Ju- 
nius were  sent  forward,  clad  in  their  national  cos- 
tume, and  furnished  with  presents  wherewith  to 
conciliate  their  countrymen. 

The  Indians  in  the  mean  while  were  not  suffered 
to  move  out  of  sight,  lest  they  should  be  seen,  and 
cause  an  alarm.  The  next  day  passed,  and  the  in- 
terpreters had  not  returned,  and  Capt.  Frankhn 
determined  to  go  on,  but  he  found  much  difficulty 


POLAR   REGIONS.  435 

in  persuading  Akaitcho  and  his  people  to  stay  be- 
hind. They  yielded,  however,  on  condition  that 
Mr  Wentzel  would  remain  with  them. 

The  river  here  flpws  between  cliffs  of  loose  sand 
mixed  with  gravel  and  red  sand-stone  rocks,  and 
is  everywhere  shallow  and  rapid.  Most  of  the  of- 
ficers and  half  of  the  men  marched  ahead,  to  lighten 
the  canoes,  and  to  reconnoitre.  In  the  evening  they 
met  Junius,  who  informed  them  that  he  had  seen 
four  Esquimaux  tents,  and  that  he  had  had  some 
conversation  with  their  inmates  across  the  river. 
The  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  party  had  frightened 
the  Esquimaux,  and  they  would  not  come  across. 
As  he  and  Augustus  had  expended  all  their  provi- 
sion, he  had  come  back  for  more,  leaving  his 
comrade  to  effect  a  more  perfect  communication. 

After  resting,  Junius  set  off  again,  and  on  the  af- 
ternoon of  the  next  day  the  Indians  joined  the  par- 
ty, Mr  Wentzel  having  been  unable  to  keep  them 
back.  By  threats  and  promises  they  were  at  last 
persuaded  to  keep  out  of  sight  till  the  Esquimaux 
should  be  prepared  to  receive  them. 

The  next  day,  the  party  proceeded,  and  passed 
the  rapid  below  which  the  Esquimaux  were  en- 
camped, in  which  the  canoes  narrowly  escaped  be- 
ing wrecked.  Here  large,  irregular  sand-hills  inclose 
both  banks.  The  country  around  them  consists 
of  high,  round  hills. 

Just  as  Augustus  was  conversing  with  one  of  the 
Esquimaux,  who  had  paddled  half  way  across  the 
river  for  the  purpose,  some  of  the  men  on  shore 
show^ed  themselves  on  the  hill  tops.     This  unfortu- 


436  POLAR   REGIONS. 

nate  circumstance  revived  the  fears  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, and  they  instantly  fled,  leaving  their  dogs 
and  other  property.     In  this  party  there  were  four 
men,   and  as  many  women.     Augustus  and  Junius 
were  sent  to  look  for  them,  but  their  search  was 
fruitless.     They  put  a  few  pieces  of  iron  and  trin- 
kets  in   their  canoes,   which   were   lying   on   the 
beach.     Some  men  were  also   sent  to  secure  the 
stages  of  fish,  and  protect  them  as  much  as  pos- 
sible from  the  attacks  of  the  dogs.     Under  the  cov- 
ering of  their  tents  were  observed  some  stone  ket- 
tles and  hatchets,  a  few  fish-spears  made  of  copper, 
two  small  bits  of  iron,  a  quantity  of  skins,  and  some 
dried  salmon,  which  was  covered  with  maggots, 
and  half  putrid.     The  entrails   of  the    fish    were 
spread  out  to   dry.     A   great  many  skins  of  small 
birds  were  hung  up  to  a  stage,  and  even  two  mice 
were  preserved  in  the  same  way.     Thus  it  would 
appear  that  the  necessities  of  these  poor  people  in- 
duce them  to  preserve  every  article  that  can  be 
possibly  used  as  food.     Several  human  skulls  which 
bore  the  marks  of  violence,  and  many  bones,  were 
strewed  about  the   ground  near  the   encampment, 
and  as  the   spot  exactly  answers  the  description 
given  by  Mr  Hearne,  of  the  place  where  the  Chip- 
pewyans   who  accompanied   him  perpetrated   the 
dreadful  massacre  on  the  Esquimaux,  there  is  no 
doubt  of  this  being  the  place.     Its  situation  is  in 
latitude  67°  42',  and  longitude  115°  49'.     The  rapid 
is  a  shelving  cascade,  three  hundred  yards  in  length, 
with  a  descent  of  fifteen  feet.     From  a  hill  close 
by  there  is  a  distinct  view  of  the  polar  sea,  whicl 


POLAR    REGIONS.  437 

is  here  full  of  islands,  and  at  this  time  was   choked 
with  ice. 

The  officers  were  preparing  to  go  down  to  the 
sea  in  one  of  the  canoes,  when  Adam  the  interpret- 
er returned  with  the  news  that  the  Esquimaux 
were  pursuing  a  party  who  had  been  sent  to  col- 
lect wood.  Going  to  their  rescue,  they  were  met 
returning  at  a  slow  pace.  They  had  come  una- 
wares upon  the  Esquimaux  party,  which  consisted  of 
six  men,  with  their  women  and  children,  who  were 
traveUing  toward  the  rapid  with  a  considerable 
number  of  dogs  carrying  their  baggage.  The  wo- 
men hid  themselves  on  the  first  alarm,  but  the  men 
advanced,  and  stopping  at  some  distance  from  the 
whites,  began  to  dance  in  a  circle,  tossing  up  their 
hands  in  the  air,  and  accompanying  their  motions 
with  much  shouting,  to  signify  their  desire  of  peace. 
The  men  saluted  them  by  pulHng  off  their  hats,  and 
making  bows,  but  neither  party  was  willing  to  ap- 
proach the  other ;  and  at  length  the  Esquimaux  re- 
tired to  the  hill,  from  whence  they  had  descended 
when  first  seen.  The  whites  proceeded,  in  the  hope 
of  gaining  an  interview  with  them ;  but  lest  their 
appearance  in  a  body  should  alarm  them,  advanced 
in  a  long  line,  at  the  head  of  which  was  Augustus. 
They  were  led  to  the  baggage,  which  they  had  de- 
serted, by  the  howling  of  the  dogs ;  and  on  the 
summit  of  the  hill  found  an  old  man,  who  was  too 
infirm  to  effect  his  escape  with  the  rest.  He  was 
much  terrified  when  Augustus  advanced,  and  pro- 
bably expected  immediate  death ;  but  that  the  fatal 
blow  might  not  be  unrevenged,  he  seized  his  spear, 
37* 


438  POLAR    REGIONS. 

and  made  a  thrust  with  it  at  his .  supposed  enemy. 
Augustus,  however,  easily  repressed  the  feeble  ef- 
fort, and  soon  calmed  his  fears  by  presenting  him 
with  some  pieces  of  iron,  and  assuring  him  of  his 
friendly  intentions.  Dr  Richardson  and  Captain 
Franklin  then  joined  them,  and  after  receiving  their 
presents,  the  old  man  was  quite  composed,  and  be- 
came communicative.  His  dialect  differed  from 
that  used  by  Augustus,  hut  they  understood  each 
other  tolerably  w^elL 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Terregannuck  and  his  People.— More  Esquimaux. — The  Copper  Indians 
turn  back. — The  Party  proceed  along  the  Coast,  and  finally  turn  back* 
— Hood's  River.— Journey  across  the  Barren  Grounds.— Sufferings  of 
the  Party:— Tripe  de  Roche. — The  River  Anatessy. 

It  appeared  that  the  party  to  which  the  old  Esqui-, 
mau  belonged  consisted  of  eight  men  and  their 
families,  who  were  returning  from  a  hunting  excur- 
sion with  dried  meat.  The  old  gentleman  said  his 
name  was  Terregannuck,  or  the  White  Fox,  and 
that  his  tribe  called  themselves  Nag-ge-ook-tor-me- 
oot,  or  Deer  Horn  Esquimaux.  They  frequent 
the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  for  the  purpose  of 
salting  salmon,  and  then  retire  to  the  westward, 
where  they  pass  the  winter  in  snow  houses,  Jn 
reply  to  inquiries  made  by  the  travellers,  he  said 
that  the  reindeer  abound  on  the  coast  in  summer, 
and  that  musk  oxen  were  to  be  found  at  a  little 


POLAR   REGIONS.  439 

distance  up  the  rivers.  He  said  there  was  plen- 
ty of  drift-wood  along  the  shore,  but  he  had  no 
knowledge  of  the  coast  eastward. 

When  he  had  answered  all  questions,  Terregan- 
nuck  proposed  going  to  his  baggage,  and  it  was  then 
first  seen  that  he  could  not  walk  without  sticks. 
On  reaching  his  store,  he  distributed  pieces  of  dried 
meat  to  his  new  acquaintances,  who  ate  them, 
though  much  tainted,  in  token  of  peaceable  inten- 
tions. Capt.  Franklin  then  told  him  that  he  was 
accompanied  by  several  Copper  Indians,  who  were 
desirous  to  make  peace  with  his  people,  and  he 
replied  that  he  would  be  rejoiced  to  see  the  hos- 
tility between  the  tribes  terminated,  and  would 
gladly  welcome  the  Indians. 

The  countenance  of  Terregannuck  was  oval, 
with  a  sufficiently  prominent  nose,  and  had  nothing 
very  ditFerent  from  an  European  face,  except  in 
the  smallness  of  his  eyes,  and,  perhaps,  in  the  nar- 
rowness of  his  forehead.  His  complexion  was 
very  fresh  and  red,  and  he  had  a  longer  beard  than 
Capt.  Franklin  had  seen  on  any  of  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants  of  America.  It  was  between  two  and 
three  inches  long,  and  perfectly  white.  His  face 
was  not  tattooed.  His  dress  consisted  of  a  shirt  or 
jacket  with  a  hood,  wide  breeches,  reaching  only 
to  the  knee,  and  tight  leggins  sewed  to  the  shoes, 
all  of  deerskin.  The  soles  of  the  shoes  were 
made  of  sealskin,  and  stuffed  with  feathers  instead 
of  socks.  He  was  bent  with  age,  but  appeared  to 
be  about  five  feet  ten  inches  high.  His  hands  and 
feet  were  small  in  proportion  to  his  height.     When- 


r 


440  POLAR   REGIONS. 

ever  Terregannuck  received  a  present,  he  placed 
each  article  first  on  his  right  shoulder,  then  on  his 
left ;  and  when  he  wished  to  express  still  higher 
satisfaction,  he  rubbed  it  over  his  head.  He  held 
hatchets,  and  other  iron  instruments,  in  the  highest 
esteem.  On  seeing  his  countenance  in  a  glass  for 
the  first  time,  he  exclaimed,  '  I  shall  never  kill  deer 
more,'  and  immediately  put  the  mirror  down.  The 
tribe  to  which  he  belongs  repair  to  the  sea  in 
spring,  and  kill  seals :  as  the  season  advances 
they  hunt  deer  and  musk  oxen  at  some  distance 
from  the  coast.  In  all  essentials  they  are  like  the 
Esquimaux  described  in  other  parts  of  this  volume, 
excepting  stature.  They  are  much  larger  than 
those  seen  by  Capt.  Parry,  and  five  feet  ten  inches 
is  not  an  uncommon  height  among  them. 

Akaitcho  and  his  followers,  on  their  way  to  rejoin 
Capt.  Franklin,  saw  the  Esquimaux,  and  endea- 
voured to  open  a  communication  with  them,  but 
without  success. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  17th,  a  party  of  nine  Es- 
quimaux appeared,  carrying  their  canoes  and  bag- 
gage ;  but  when  they  perceived  the  tents,  they 
turned  and  fled.  The  appearance  of  so  many  dif- 
ferent bands  terrified  the  Copper  Indians  so  much 
that  they  resolved  to  return  to  their  own  hunting- 
grounds,  and  Capt.  Franklin  had  difficulty  even  to 
persuade  them  to  wait  for  Mr  Wentzel  at  the  Cop- 
per Mountains.  St  Germain  and  Adam,  the  two 
interpreters,  also  desired  to  be  discharged  ;  but  as 
they  were  the  only  two  good  hunters  in  the  party, 
the  Captain  would  by  no  means  consent. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  441 

At  the  departure  of  the  Indians,  Capt.  Frank- 
lin reminded  them  of  the  necessity  of  making  a 
deposit  of  provisions  at  Fort  Enterprise,  and  they 
promised  to  attend  to  it  It  was  afterwards  found 
that  their  fears  did  not  even  permit  them  to  wait 
for  Mr  Wentzel,  as  they  had  engaged  to  do. 

Captain  Frankhn  and  his  party  then  descended 
to  the  sea,  and  began  their  journey  eastward  along 
the  coast,  having  travelled  three  hundred  and  thir- 
tyfour  miles  this  season,  the  distance  from  Fort 
Enterprise  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine.  The 
latter  point  is  in  latitude  67**  47'  50",  and  longitude 
115°36'49^ 

It  would  be  tedious  to  follow  our  friends  along 
the  shore  of  the  Hyperborean  Sea.  At  almost  every 
point  where  they  landed,  they  found  traces  of  the 
Esquimaux,  and  deposits  which  they  had  left  be- 
hind them.  They  saw  many  islands,  bays,  and 
capes,  of  which  all  that  can  be  said  is,  that  their 
positions  are  determined,  and  they  are  laid  down 
on  the  map.  They  found  drift-wood  on  the 
shore  in  abundance,  and  it  may  be  remarked  here 
that  the  Coppermine  brings  none  down ;  neither 
does  any  other  stream  excepting  Mackenzie's  Riv- 
er, from  which  the  existence  of  an  easterly  current 
may  be  inferred.  In  some  places  the  coast  pre- 
sented a  beach  of  gravel,  skirted  by  green  plains, 
but  as  they  proceeded  eastward  it  became  rocky 
and  sterile.  Sometimes  the  expedition  was  de- 
tained by  drift  ice  and  bad  weather  and  at  last,  on 
the  19th  of  August,  the  stock  of  provisions  being 
expended,  and  all  hope  of  meeting  the  Esquimaux 


442  POLAR   REGIONS. 

being  at  an  end,  Capt.  Franklin  resolved  to  return. 
Point  Turnagain,  the  farthest  point  eastward  to 
which  the  party  penetrated,  is  six  degrees  and  a 
half  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine,  or,  by 
following  the  windings  of  the  coast,  a  distance  of 
five  hundred  and  fiftyfive  geographic  miles. 

Now  commences  the  relation  of  the  most  affect- 
ing and  tragical  events  recorded  in  the  annals  of 
travels.  The  original  plan  of  Capt.  Franklin  had 
been  to  return  by  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River ;  but  the  length  of  the  journey  and  the  want 
of  provisions  induced  him  to  change  his  determina- 
tion, and  he  resolved  to  proceed  up  Hood's  River, 
a  little  west  of  Point  Turnagain,  as  far  as  it  might 
be  found  navigable,  and  then  strike  across  the  bar- 
ren grounds  to  Fort  Enterprise. 

On  the  22d  of  August,  the  party  turned  back, 
and  in  three  days  reached  Hood's  River,  which  they 
ascended  to  the  first  rapid,  and  encamped.  Here 
ended  their  journey  on  the  Arctic  Sea.  The  next 
morning  they  proceeded  up  the  river,  which  is  full 
of  shoals  and  from  one  hundred  to  an  hundred  and 
twenty  yards  wide.  The  distance  made  this  day 
was  only  six  miles,  and  on  the  next,  after  dragging 
the  canoes  up  shoals  and  contending  with  rapids, 
the  journey  in  a  direct  line  was  only  seven  miles. 
They  then  came  to  two  beautiful  falls,  above  which 
the  river  appeared  so  shallow,  that  it  was  deemed 
useless  to  proceed  farther  in  canoes.  The  Captain 
therefore  determined  to  construct  two  small  canoes 
out  of  the  materials  of  the  larger  ones,  and  the  ope- 
ration was  finished  by  the  last  day  of  the  month. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  443 

The  leather  which  had  been  preserved  for  making 
moccasins  was  now  divided  among  the  men,  and 
such  articles  of  warm  clothing  as  were  most  neces- 
sary were  issued  to  each.  This  done,  Capt.  Frank- 
lin informed  them  of  his  determination  to  proceed  di- 
rectly to  Point  Lake,  thence  distant  an  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  a  straight  line.  The  luggage  consisted 
of  nets,  hatchets,  astronomical  instruments,  clothing, 
blankets,  three  kettles,  and  the  two  canoes,  which 
were  each  carried  by  one  man.  The  burthen  of 
each  might  amount  to  ninety  pounds ;  and  thus  la- 
den they  set  forward  in  the  afternoon  of  the  31st, 
at  the  rate  of  about  a  mile  an  hour,  including  rests. 
In  the  evening,  the  hunters  killed  a  musk  cow,  but 
the  men  were  too  heavily  laden  to  carry  more  than 
a  small  portion  of  the  flesh.  They  encamped,  and 
about  midnight  their  tent  was  blown  down,  and  they 
were  all  completely  drenched. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  September,  there 
was  a  fall  of  snow,  and  the  canoes  became  a  cause 
of  delay,  from  the  difficulty  of  carrying  them  in  a 
high  wind,  and  they  sustained  much  injury  from  the 
falls  of  those  who  had  the  charge  of  them.  The 
face  of  the  country  was  broken  by  small  hills,  and 
the  ground  was  plentifully  strewed  with  small  stones, 
very  painful  to  men  carrying  heavy  burthens.  This 
day  a  deer  and  a  musk  ox  were  killed  ;  and  at  night 
they  kindled  a  fire  of  moss,  to  cook  a  part  of  the 
flesh,  as  there  was  no  wood  at  hand. 

On  the  3d,  emerging  from  the  valley  of  Hood's 
River,  they  entered  a  level  but  very  barren  country, 
varied  only  by  ponds  and  marshes,   and  covered 


444  POLAR   REGIONS. 

with  small  stones.  This  day  they  made  ten  miles 
and  three  quarters*  On  the  4th,  the  men,  being 
weakened  by  hunger,  began  to  find  their  burthens 
very  oppressive,  but  did  not  complain.  A  heavy 
rain  which  changed  to  snow  detained  them  during 
the  5th,  and  they  remained  in  their  beds  all  day  ;  but 
their  blankets  were  insufficient  to  secure  them  from 
the  severity  of  the  frost.  The  next  day  there  was 
no  abatement  of  the  storm;  the  tents  were  com- 
pletely frozen,  and  the  snow  had  drifted  round  them 
three  feet  deep,  and  even  inside  there  was  a  covering 
of  several  inches  on  their  blankets.  Hunger  was, 
however,  their  greatest  suffering. 

On  the  7th,  the  weather  cleared,  but  was  very 
cold,  and  the  wind  was  strong.  The  party  pro- 
ceeded, though  weak  from  fasting,  and  though  their 
garments,  bed-clothes,  &c.  were  stiff  with  frost. 
The  ground  w^as  covered  a  foot  deep  with  snow, 
the  margins  of  the  lakes  were  incrusted  with  ice, 
and  the  swamps  over  which  they  had  to  pass  were 
not  entirely  frozen,  so  that  they  frequently  plunged 
knee  deep  in  water.  Those  who  carried  the  canoes 
were  frequently  blown  down,  and  by  this  means  the 
largest  was  so  broken  as  to  be  wholly  ruined.  As 
the  accident  could  not  be  repaired,  they  turned  it  to 
the  best  account,  by  making  a  fire  of  the  broken 
materials,  and  cooked  a  little  portable  soup  and  ar- 
row-root, the  only  provision  left.  This  was  a  scanty 
repast  after  three  days  fasting,  but  it  enabled  them 
to  proceed  at  a  quicker  pace  than  before.  In  the 
afternoon,  they  came  to  a  more  hilly  country,  abound- 
ing in  large  stones,  which  were  covered  with  lichens 


POLAR  RRGIONS.  445 

of  the  genus  gijropliora,  called  by  the  Canadians  tripe 
de  roche,  A  considerable  quantity  was  gathered, 
which,  with  half  a  partridge  each,  furnished  a  slender 
supper ;  after  which  our  friends  passed  a  comfort- 
less night  in  their  damp  clothes. 

The  next  morning  they  came  to  a  stream  flow- 
ing westward  with  a  rapid  current,  which  they  had 
much  difficulty  in  crossing,  as  their  canoe  wanted 
gumming,  which  they  were  unable  to  perform  for 
want  of  wood.  However,  they  crossed  the  stream 
by  means  of  a  range  of  rocks,  though  several  slip- 
ped into  the  current,  and  were  drenched  complete- 
ly ;  indeed  they  would  have  perished,  but  for  the 
aid  of  the  others.  The  march  was  continued  till  a 
late  hour,  in  the  hope  of  overtaking  the  hunters,  who 
had  gone  before ;  and  their  supper,  and  only  meal 
for  that  day,  consisted  of  a  partridge  each,  and 
some  tripe  de  roche. 

In  the  morning  of  the  9th,  they  overtook  the 
hunters,  who  were  resting  on  the  borders  of  a  lake 
which  stretched  to  the  westward  as  far  as  they 
could  see,  and  discharged  its  waters  by  a  rapid 
stream  an  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide.  Being 
entirely  ignorant  where  they  might  be  led  by  fol- 
lowing the  shore  of  the  lake,  they  resolved  to  cross 
the  river,  if  possible,  and  some  willows  which  grew 
at  hand  enabled  them  to  gum  their  canoe.  In  the 
afternoon,  St  Germain  and  Adam  ferried  the  party 
over,  one  at  a  time,  causing  each  to  lie  flat  in  its 
bottom, — ^by  no  means  a  pleasant  posture,  on  ac- 
count of  its  leakiness.  This  done,  the  party  walk- 
ed two  miles  farther,  encamped,  and  supped  on 
38 


446  POLAR    REGIONS. 

two  hares  only,  as  there  was  no  tripe  de  roche 
at  this  place.  From  the  top  of  a  hill,  Capt.  Frank- 
lin still  saw  the  lake  stretching  westward,  and  sub- 
sequently learned  that  the  river  was  the  Anatessy. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

A  Musk-Ox  killed. — The  Party  come  to  a  Lake  and  cross  a  River. — Dan- 
ger of  Belanger. — They  reach  Point  Lake. — The  Canoe  left. — They 
arrive  at  the  Coppermine.—  Adventure  of  Dr  Richardson.— Efforts  to 
cross.— Fate  of  Credit  and  Vaillant.— Dr  Richardson  stops. — Dreadful 
Sufferings  of  the  Party. 

The  day  after  crossing  the  Anatessy,  our  friends 
were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill  a  musk-ox.  So  great 
was  their  hunger  that  they  did  not  wait  to  cook  the 
flesh,  but  devoured  the  intestines  raw  on  the  spot, 
which  were  pronounced  excellent  by  the  most  del- 
icate among  them.  This  was  the  first  sufficient 
meal  they  had  eaten  for  six  days. 

Here  they  were  detained  a  whole  day  by  a  vio- 
lent gale.  They  started  again  on  the  12th,  and  in 
the  morning  of  the  13th,  had  the  mortification  to 
find  themselves  on  the  borders  of  a  large  lake, 
which,  as  they  could  not  cross,  they  coasted  to  the 
westward.  The  flesh  of  the  musk-ox  was  now 
exhausted,  and  to  add  to  their  distress  the  tripe 
de  roche  had  become  extremely  nauseous  to  the 
whole  party,  and  had  produced  severe  bowel  com- 
plaints. This  evening  the  officers  were  grieved  to 
find  that  their  improvident  followers  had  thrown 


POLAR    REGIONS.  447 

away  the  fishing-nets,  their  only  resource  in  case 
they  should  kill  no  animals,  to  lighten  their  loads. 

In  the  morning  of  the  14th,  they  came  to  a  river 
which  discharged  the  waters  of  the  lake,  and  here 
one  of  the  hunters  killed  two  deer,  on  which  the 
party  once  more  made  a  good  meal.  After  this, 
they  proceeded  to  cross  the  river  just  above  a 
rapid.  St  Germain,  Belanger,  and  Captain  Franklin 
exnbarked  first,  but  overset  the  canoe  in  the  middle 
of  the  rapid.  Fortunately,  they  kept  hold  of  it  till 
they  got  footing  on  a  rock,  where  the  water  was  no 
higher  than  their  waists,  where  they  emptied  the 
canoe.  Belanger  then  held  it  steady  while  the  Cap- 
tain and  St  Germain  embarked,  but  he  could  not 
get  in  himself,  as  the  canoe  would  have  been  hur- 
ried down  the  rapid  the  moment  he  Ufted  his  foot 
from  the  rock.  Scarcely  had  the  conveyance  left 
him,  when  it  struck  another  rock,  and  went  down ; 
but  as  the  place  was  shallow,  the  Captain  and  St 
Germain  again  emptied  it  and  reached  the  shore. 
In  the  mean  while,  Belanger  was  suffering  extreme- 
ly, immersed  in  water  almost  freezing,  and  the  up- 
per part  of  his  body  covered  with  wet  clothes,  in  a 
temperature  little  above  zero,  aggravated  by  a  strong 
breeze.  Several  attempts  were  made  to  reach 
him  with  the  canoe,  but  they  all  proved  ineffectual. 
At  last,  when  almost  exhausted,  the  canoe  reached 
him  with  the  end  of  a  cord,  and  he  was  dragged, 
entirely  senseless,  through  the  rapid. 

The  rest  of  the  party  were  carried  over  on  the 
15th,  and  they  proceeded  along  the  lake,  which  was 
ascertained  to  be  the  Contwayto,   or  Rum  Lake. 


448  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Taking  leave  of  this,  they  continued  onward,  sick 
and  starving,  till  the  twentysecond,  when  they 
reached  a  branch  of  Point  Lake.  Our  readers  will 
perhaps  be  desirous  to  know  how  they  passed  their 
nights  without  fire,  in  such  w^eather.  The  first  ope- 
ration after  encamping  was  to  thaw  their  frozen 
mocasins,  if  a  sufficient  fire  could  be  made  ;  and  dry 
ones  were  put  on.  They  then  laid  down  and  con- 
versed till  their  blankets  were  thawed  by  the  heat 
of  their  bodies,  and  they  had  gathered  sufficient 
warmth  to  sleep.  On  many  nights  they  had  not 
the  good  fortune  to  sleep  in  dry  clothes  ;  for  when 
they  could  not  make  fire  to  dry  them,  they  durst  not 
put  them  off,  lest  they  should  freeze  so  hard  as  to 
be  unfit  to  wear  in  the  morning,  and  therefore  in- 
convenient to  carry. 

Following  the  shores  of  Point  Lake  on  the  23d, 
Peltier  and  Vaillant,  who  had  charge  of  the  canoe, 
were  left  behind.  When  they  came  up  they  said 
that  the  canoe  had  been  so  damaged  by  another 
fall  as  to  be  incapable  of  repair,  and  utterly  useless. 
No  persuasion  could  induce  them,  or  any  of  the 
voyageurs,  to  go  back  for  it,  and  the  officers  were 
too  weak  to  undertake  the  task.  To  this  obstinacy 
may  be  attributed  the  misfortunes  which  attended 
their  subsequent  progress.  This  night,  a  heavy 
rain  fell,  which  obliterated  the  tracks  of  the  hunters 
who  had  gone  forward,  and  the  men  became  quite 
furious  at  the  idea  of  being  abandoned  by  them. 
Some  of  the  strongest  threw  down  their  bundles 
to  follow,  and  would  have  left  the  weaker  to  shift 
for  themselves,  had  they  not  been  prevented  by  the 


POLAR    REGIONS.  449 

threats  and  entreaties  of  the  officers.  However,  in 
the  course  of  the  day  they  came  up  with  the  hunt- 
ers, who  had  killed  five  small  deer,  of  which  the 
Canadians  with  their  usual  improvidence  consumed 
more  than  a  third  that  evening. 

On  the  26th,  they  came  to  the  Coppermine,  five 
miles  above  where  it  enters  Point  Lake.  Its  cur- 
rent here  is  swift,  and  there  are  two  rapids,  which 
in  a  canoe  they  could  have  traversed  in  safety  and 
with  ease.  As  they  could  find  no  food,  and  as 
there  was  no  wood  at  hand  big  enough  for  a  raft, 
they  were  obliged  to  repair  to  the  Lake  in  search 
of  trees.  After  travelling  two  days  along  the  shore, 
the  search  was  abandoned  as  useless,  and  they 
returned  to  the  rapid  to  attempt  to  cross  on  a  raft  of 
willows.  While  they  were  considering  this  project, 
the  carcass  of  a  deer  was  found  in  a  crevice  of  a 
rock,  into  which  it  had  fallen  in  the  spring.  It  was 
putrid,  but  little  less  acceptable  on  that  account, 
and  the  greater  part  was  devoured  forthwith. 

In  the  morning  of  the  29th,  the  men  began  at 
an  early  hour  to  bind  the  willows  in  faggots  for  the 
construction  of  the  raft,  and  it  was  finished  by  sev- 
en; but  as  the  willows  were  green,  it  proved  to  be 
very  little  buoyant,  and  was  unable  to  support  more 
than  one  man  at  a  time.  Even  on  this,  however,  it 
was  hoped  the  whole  party  might  be  transported, 
by  hauling  it  from  one  side  to  the  other  ;  provided  a 
line  could  be  carried  to  the  other  bank.  Several 
attempts  were  made  by  Belanger  and  Benoit,  the 
strongest  men  of  the  party,  to  convey  the  raft  across 
the  stream,  but  they  failed  for  want  of  oars.  A 
38* 


450  POLAR    REGIONS. 

pole  constructed  by  tying  the  tent-poles  together, 
was  too  short  to  reach  the  bottom  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  shore ;  and  a  paddle  did  not  pos- 
sess sufficient  power  to  move  the  raft  in  opposition 
to  a  strong  breeze,  which  blew  from  the  other  side. 
All  the  men  suffered  extremely  from  the  coldness 
of  the  water,  in  which  they  w^ere  necessarily  im- 
mersed up  to  their  waists,  in  their  endeavours  to  aid 
Belanger  and  Benoit ;  and,  having   witnessed  re- 
peated failures,  they  began  to  consider  the  scheme 
as  hopeless.    At  this  time,  Dr  Richardson,  prompted 
by  a  desire  of  relieving  his  suffering  companionb, 
proposed  to  swim  across  the  stream  with  a  line, 
and  to  haul  the  raft  over.     He  threw  himself  into  the 
river  with  the  line  round  his  middle,  but  when  he 
had  got  a  short  distance  from  the  bank,  his  arms 
became   benumbed  with  cold,  and  he  lost  the  pow- 
er of  moving  them :  still  he  persevered,  and,  turn- 
ing on  his  back,  had  nearly  gained  the  opposite 
bank,  when  his  legs  also  became  powerless  and  he 
sunk.     They  instantly  hauled  upon  the  line,  and  he 
came  again  to  the  surface,  and  was  gradually  drawn 
ashore  in  an  almost  lifeless  state.     Being  rolled  up 
in  blankets,  he  w^as  placed  before  a  good  fire  of 
willows,    and   fortunately   was    just   able  to    give 
some    shght    directions    respecting     the    manner 
of  treating    him.       He    gained   strength    gradual- 
ly, .and    through  the    blessing  of    God   was   en- 
abled in  the  course  of  a  lew  hours  to  converse,  and 
by  the  evening  was  sufficiently  recovered  to  re- 
move mto  the  tent.     The  skin  of  his  whole  left  side 
was  deprived  of  feeling,  in  consequence, ^of  expo- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  451 

sure  to  too  great  heat.  He  did  not  perfectly  re^ 
cover  the  sensation  of  that  side  until  the  follow- 
ing summer.  When  he  stripped,  the  Canadians 
simultaneously  exclaimed,  'Ah!  que  nous  sommes 
maigres  i ' 

The  next  morning  the  men  collected  eight  large 
faggots  of  willows,  of  which  they  constructed  a 
larger  and  better  raft  than  the  first.  Yet,  as  it  did 
not  answer  their  purpose,  St  Germain  set  about  ma- 
king a  canoe  of  the  fragments  of  painted  canvass  in 
which  they  had  wrapped  their  bedding  on  the  first  of 
October.  In  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  men  foun^ 
the  back-bone  of  a  deer  which  had  been  killed  and 
eaten  by  wolves,  but  the  spinal  marrow  still  re- 
mained. This,  though  putrid,  was  esteemed  a  val- 
uable prize,  and  the  bones  were  rendered  friable 
by  burning,  and  eaten  also. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  ground  was  cov- 
ered with  snow  a  foot  and  a  half  deep,  and  the 
weather  was  stormy.  These  circumstances  ren- 
dered the  men  despondent,  and  they  refused  to 
gather  tripe  de  roche,  preferring  to  go  entirely 
without  eating  to  making  the  least  exertion.  The 
storm  continued  till  the  afternoon  of  the  3d,  by 
which  time  St  Germain  had  finished  his  canoe. 
By  this  time  the  officers  were  extremely  reduced ; 
Mr  Hood  was  litde  better  than  a  skeleton,  Mr 
Back  could  not  walk  without  a  stick,  and  Dr  Rich- 
ardson was  lame,  as  well  as  weak. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  November,  St  Germain 
embarked  in  his  canoe,  and  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river  with  a  line.    The  canoe 


452  POLAR    REGIONS. 

was   then  drawn  back,  and  another  person    was 
transported,  and  so   on  till  the  whole  party  were 
conveyed  over,  except  the  Esquimaux  Junius,  who 
had  been  lost  several  days,  and  it  was  never  known 
what  became  of  him.     By  the  frequent  traverses 
the  canoe  was  materially  injured,  so  that  all  the 
garments  and  bedding  were  soaked,  and  there  was 
not  a  sufficiency  of  willows  to  dry  them.     That  no 
time  might  be  lost,  Mr  Back  was   instantly  des- 
patched in  search  of  the  Indians,  with  St  Germain, 
Solomon  Belanger,  and  Beauparlant. 
,  More  snow  fell  in  the  night,  but  the  Captain  and 
his  party  were  early  on  foot  the  next  morning ;  yet 
the  tents   and  bedding  were  so  frozen  that  it  was 
late  before  they  could  get  their  bundles  in  readi- 
ness for  departure.     They  then  followed  the  tracks 
of  Mr  Back  and  his  men,  and  walked  six  miles  only, 
their  weakness  allowing  them  to  go  no  farther.  Two 
of  the  men.  Credit  and  Vaillant,  who  had  been  una- 
ble to  digest  the  tripe  de  roche,  were  so  exhausted, 
that  on  reaching  the  encampment  they  were  unable 
to  stand. 

Before  starting  the  next  morning,  the  whole  party 
ate  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and  whatever 
fragments  of  leather  they  had,  to  enable  them  to 
face  a  piercing  gale.  Some  of  the  party  lagged  in 
the  rear,  and  toward  noon  Samandre  came  up 
with  the  front  to  say  that  Credit  and  Vaillant  had 
dropped  down  ;  and  Doctor  Richardson  went  back 
to  them,  but  did  not  find  Credit.  Vaillant  was  un- 
able to  rise  or  speak ;  and  as  the  Doctor  was  unable 
to  aid  him,  he  returned  to  the  party,  who  in  the  mean 


POLAR    REGIONS.  453 

while  had  made  a  fire.    J.  B.  Belanger  then  went  to 
assist  Vaillant,   but   could  not  rouse  him:   and  the 
strongest   of   the   voyageurs    declared   themselves 
unable  to  bring  him  to  the  fire.     They  urged  Capt. 
Franklin  to  allow   them  to  throw  down  their  loads 
and  hasten   to  Fort  Enterprise,   a  measure  which 
would  have  destroyed  them,  for  not  one   of  them 
knew  the  way,  and  the  officers  would  have  been  un- 
able to  keep  up  with  them.    However,  as  it  was  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  do  something  to  lighten  them,  Dr 
Richardson  and  Mr  Hood,  with  John  Hepburn,  pro- 
posed to  remain  behind  at  the  first  convenient  place, 
while  the  rest  proceeded  to  the  house,  whence  they 
thought   immediate    relief  might   be   sent.      This 
measure  was  immediately  carried  into  effect ;   but 
Credit  and  Vaillant  were,  unavoidably,  left  to  their 
fate. 

The  next  day,  the  Captain  and  those  who  pro- 
ceeded with  him  made  but  four  miles ;  and  on 
encamping,  Belanger  and  Michel  declared  them- 
selves quite  exhausted,  and  desired  to  be  permitted 
to  return  to  Dr  Richardson  and  Mr  Hood.  The 
night  was  bitter  cold,  and,  though  they  laid  as  close 
as  possible,  they  could  not  keep  themselves  warm 
enough  to  sleep.  Toward  midnight  a  strong  gale 
increased  their  sufferings.  In  the  morning,  Michel 
and  Belanger  received  permission  to  go  back  to 
Doctor  Richardson.  The  former  was  very  particu- 
lar in  his  inquiries  respecting  the  route  the  Captain 
meant  to  pursue. 

Scarcely  was  this  arrangement  made,  when  two 
more,  Perrault  and  Fontano,  were  seized  with  diz- 


454  POLAR    REGIONS. 

ziness  and  other  symptoms  of  extreme  debility. 
They  were  in  some  degree  revived  by  drinking 
a  little  tea,  and  eating  a  few  morsels  of  burnt  lea- 
ther, and  expressed  a  willingness  to  go  forward. 
The  others,  however,  alarmed  at  what  they  had 
witnessed,  and  doubtful  of  their  own  strength,  re- 
fused to  move.  But  on  the  representation  of  the 
Captain,  that  it  was  their  only  chance  for  life,  they 
at  last  proceeded,  leaving  Michel  and  Belanger  at 
the  encampment.     , 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Perrault  turns  back. — Fontano  is  lost. — Captain  Franklin  reaches  Fort 
Enterprise. — Misery  of  the  Party. — Dr  Richardson  and  Hepburn  reach 
Fort  Enterprise. — The  Crimes  of  Michel. — Murder  of  Mr  Hood.— Mi- 
chel is  put  to  Death. — Subsequent  Progress  of  Dr  Richardson  and 
Hepburn. 

Scarcely  had  the  party  gone  two  hundred  yards, 
w^hen  Perrault  became  dizzy  again,  and  in  ten 
minutes  more  declared  himself  unable  to  go  any 
farther.  As  the  encampment  was  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  off,  he  turned  to  regain  it,  walking 
with  much  difficulty.  The  route  then  lay  across 
a  lake  where  the  ice  was  perfectly  smooth,  and 
the  men  fell  continually.  Fontano  was  complete- 
ly exhausted  by  the  fatigue  of  the  traverse,  and 
he  turned  to  go,  first  to  the  encampment,  and  then 
to  Dr  Richardson,  as  Perrault  had  done,  by  which 
the  number  of  the  party  was  reduced  to  five,  viz. 


POLAR   REGIONS.  455 

Adam,  Benoit,  Peltier,  Samandre,  and  Captain 
Franklin.  Augustus  had  gone  ahead.  After  they 
had  made  four  miles  and  a  half,  they  encamped 
near  some  willows,  and  supped  on  a  few  morsels  of 
burnt  leather.  Augustus  did  not  make  his  appear- 
ance, but  this  gave  the  Captain  no  uneasiness,  as 
he  supposed  that  if  he  missed  the  track,  he  would 
go  to  Dr  Richardson. 

The  next  day  they  gained  five  miles,  and  en- 
camped on  Winter  River,  and  the  arrival  in  a  well- 
known  neighbourhood  raised  the  spirits  of  the  men. 
The  night  was  very  stormy,  and  so  was  the  morn- 
ing; but  they  set  out,  being  eager  to  reach  Fort 
Enterprise  that  day.  They  saw  a  large  herd  of 
reindeer,  but  Adam,  the  only  hunter,  was  too  weak 
to  pursue  them.  They  did  not  reach  the  house 
that  night,  and  when  they  did,  the  next  morning,  it 
was  only  to  meet  with  grievous  disappointment. 

The  house  was  desolate, — there  were  no  traces 
of  the  Indians, — and  they  had  made  no  deposit  of 
provisions,  as  they  had  promised.  The  party  could 
not  refrain  from  tears  ;  for  not  to  speak  of  their  own 
misery,  the  lives  of  their  friends  in  the  rear  de- 
pended on  sending  immediate  rehef  from  this  place. 

There  was  a  note,  however,  from  Mr  Back,  who 
had  left  the  house  two  days  before.  By  it  the 
Captain  learned  that  he  had  gone  in  search  of  the 
Indians,  and  that  he  proposed,  if  he  did  not  find 
them,  to  try  to  reach  Fort  Providence.  Here, 
then,  the  party  were  obliged  to  remain  and  wait 
for  whatever  might  befall,  for  they  were  all  too  fee- 
ble to  travel  any  farther.     The  deerskins  they  had 


456  POLAR   REGIONS. 

formerly  thrown  away,  served  them  for  food  ;  and 
they  collected  bones  from  the  ashes,  which,  with 
tripe  de  roche,  they  must  eat  to  preserve  life.  In 
the  evening  Augustus  rejoined  them. 

The  next  morning  they  were  all  much  enfeebled, 
and  Adam  was  unable  to  rise  without  assistance ; 
yet  they  were  compelled  to  collect  bones  and  tripe 
de  roche.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  14th,  there  was 
a  storm,  during  which  Belanger  entered  the  house, 
so  much  exhausted  that  he  could  not  speak,  with  a 
note  from  Mr  Back,  stating  that  he  had  not  found 
the  Indians,  and  desiring  farther  instructions. 

On  the  18th,  Belanger  set  out  to  return  to  Mr 
Back,  with  instructions  to  meet  Captain  Franklin 
at  Reindeer  Lake,  whither  he  proposed  to  pro- 
ceed with  the  men.  It  appeared  when  about  to 
start,  that  Adam  was  unable  to  move,  and  Peltier 
and  Samandre  agreed  to  remain  with  him.  The 
Captain  started  on  the  20th,  with  Benoit  and  Au- 
gustus, but  breaking  his  snow  shoes  at  the  outset, 
he  sent  them  forward  and  returned  himself  to  the 
house,  where  he  found  Samandre  as  helpless  as 
Adam. 

Captain  Franklin  now  undertook  the  office  of 
cook  and  nurse  to  the  two  sick  men,  while  Peltier 
brought  wood,  and  pounded  the  bones  he  collected. 
Thus  the  time  wore  on  for  some  days,  and  it  is 
wonderful  how  life  lasted  so  long.  Their  strength 
declined  daily,  and  when  seated  it  was  not  without 
a  great  effort  that  they  could  rise  again.  Still  Pel- 
tier persevered  in  collecting  wood,  which  Captain 
Franklin,  and  Samandre,  who  had  somewhat  recov- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  457 

ered,  brought  to  the  house.  So  feeble  were  they 
that  their  utmost  exertions  only  sufficed  to  replen- 
ish the  fire  four  times  a  day.  Once  in  a  while 
they  saw  deer  near  the  house,  but  were  wholly  un- 
able to  go  in  pursuit  of  them. 

On  the  29th,  Dr  Richardson  and  Hepburn  en- 
tered the  house,  whose  first  words  gave  information 
that  Mr  Hood  and  Michel  were  dead,  and  that  Per- 
rault  and  Fontano  had  not  been  seen  by  them. 
The  next  day  the  new  comers  went  in  quest  of 
deer,  and  fired  several  times  at  them,  but  without 
success,  as  they  were  too  weak  to  hold  their  guns 
steady.  It  was  not  till  the  evening  of  this  day  that 
the  Doctor  related  his  adventures  subsequent  to 
parting  company  with  Capt.  Franklin.  We  give 
an  abridged  account  of  them,  as  follows. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Dr  Richardson,  Mr 
Hood,  and  Hepburn  were  left  by  the  party  on 
the  8th  of  October.  On  the  morning  of  the  9th, 
Michel,  called  the  Iroquois,  came  to  the  tent,  say- 
ing that  Belanger,  in  company  with  whom  he  had 
been  left  by  Captain  Franklin,  had  started  to  join 
the  Doctor  two  hours  earlier  than  himself,  and  he 
supposed,  must  have  gone  astray,  as  he  had  himself 
done.  Subsequent  observations  rendered  it  proba- 
ble that  this  account  was  false,  and  that  Belanger 
was  killed  by  Michel. 

The  next  morning,  the  officers,  Hepburn,  and  Mi- 
chel went  to  the  grove  of  pine  trees,  where  Michel 
had  been  left  by  Capt.  Franklin.  Here,  Michel 
said  he  had  left  a  gun  which  had  been  given  him 
by  Perrault,  though  it  seems  by  Capt.  Franklin's 
39 


..  ^ 


458  POLAR    REGIONS. 

journal  that  Perrault  made  him  no  such  present. 
After  making  a  fire,  and  drinking  a  decoction  of  the 
Labrador  tea  plant,  the  Doctor,  Mr  Hood,  and  Hep- 
burn returned  to  the  tent ;  but  Michel  preferred 
sleeping  where  he  was,  promising  to  join  them  in 
the  morning.  At  his  request,  their  hatchet  was  left 
with  him. 

On  the  11th,  Michel  did  not  join  them,  and  Dr 
Richardson  and  Hepburn  were  obliged  to  carry 
their  bedding,  &c.  to  the  pines  themselves,  Mr 
Hood  following  them.  On  arriving,  they  were 
alarmed  to  find  Michel  absent,  nor  did  he  appear 
till  night,  when  he  stated  that  he  had  been  hunt- 
ing all  day.  He  had  met  with  no  success,  he  said, 
but  had  found  a  wolf  that  had  been  killed  by  the 
stroke  of  a  deer's  horn,  and  had  brought  a  part  of  it. 
His  companions  in  misery  believed  this  story  at 
the  time,  but  there  are  reasons  to  believe  that  the 
flesh  he  brought  was  that  of  Belanger  or  Perrault. 
It  is  not  otherwise  easy  to  account  for  his  conceal- 
ing from  the  Doctor  that  Perrault  had  turned  back, 
or  for  his  voluntarily  encumbering  himself  with  a 
hatchet,  unless  he  meant  to  cut  up  something 
which  he  already  knew  to  be  frozen.  His  retain- 
ing and  even  gaining  strength  while  the  others 
were  daily  becoming  more  feeble  from  starvation, 
is  another  strong  circumstance  against  him.  It  is  still 
a  question  whether  he  slew  Belanger  or  Perrault, 
or  whether  he  found  their  bodies  in  the  snow. 
Captain  Franklin,  who,  from  knowing  their  situation, 
is  best  able  to  judge,  is  of  opinion  that  he  murdered 
them.  Above  all,  his  subsequent  conduct  proves 
him  to  have  been  capable  to  commit  such  a  crime. 


POLAR  REGIONS.  459 

Till  the  18th,  Michel  behaved  strangely,  some- 
times going  out  to  hunt,  at  others  refusing  to  do  so. 
His  general  demeanor  was  surly,  and  he  often 
threatened  to  leave  them.  Mr  Hood's  strength 
was  now  completely  prostrated  by  eating  tripe  de 
roche,  and  was  scarcely  able  to  sit  up  by  the  fire 
side.  He  complained  that  every  breeze  seemed  to 
blow  through  his  frame. 

On  the  19th,  Michel  refused  to  hunt  or  assist  in 
bringing  wood,  and  Mr  Hood  remonstrated  with 
him.  Reproof  on]y  made  him  angry,  and  he  used 
this  remarkable  expression.  *  It  is  no  use  hunting ; 
there  are  no  animals ;  you  had  better  kill  and  eat 
me.'     At  length,  however,  he  went. 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  Dr  Richardson 
again  urged  Michel  to  go  a  hunting,  but  he  showed 
great  unwillingness,  and  lingered  about  the  fire,  pre- 
tending to  clean  his  gun.  The  Doctor  then  went 
to  gather  tripe  de  roche,  while  Hepburn  was  em- 
ployed in  felling  a  tree  at  a  short  distance.  They 
were  recalled  to  the  fire  by  the  report  of  a  gun, 
and  found  Mr  Hood  dead.  On  examination,  it  ap- 
peared that  a  ball  had  entered  the  back  part  of  his 
head,  and  that  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been  so 
nigh  as  to  singe  his  cap.  Michel  said  that  Mr  Hood 
had  sent  him  to  the  tent  on  some  trifling  errand, 
and  that  while  he  was  absent  the  gun  had  gone  off, 
he  knew  not  how.  Hepburn  afterwards  told  the 
Doctor  that  he  had  heard  Mr  Hood  and  Michel 
talking  in  an  angry  tone,  and  that  on  hearing  the 
gun,  he  had  turned  and  saw  Michel  behind  his  vic- 
tim.    Thus  died  ah  officer  whose  talents  were  an 


460  POLAR    REGIONS. 

honor  to  his  country,  and  whose  virtues  endeared 
him  to  all  who  knew  him.  Although  neither  Hep- 
burn nor  the  Doctor  dared  to  express  any  suspi- 
cion, Michel  earnestly  exculpated  himself,  and 
avoided  leaving  them  together,  evidently  fearing  to 
permit  them  to  converse  in  private.  He  under- 
stood English  imperfectly,  and  whenever  Hepburn 
spoke,  he  demanded  if  he  accused  him  of  the  murder. 

Having  determined  to  go  to  Fort  Enterprise, 
the  little  party  started  on  the  23d.  Hepburn  and 
Michel  carried  guns,  and  the  Doctor  a  small  pistol. 
Michel  was  very  unwilling  to  go  to  the  fort,  and 
tried  to  persuade  his  companions  to  go  to  the 
woods,  or  the  Coppermine,  where  he  said  he  would 
maintain  them  all  winter  by  killing  deer.  In  con- 
sequence of  his  behaviour,  Dr  Richardson  desired 
him  to  go  to  the  woods  by  himself,  a  proposal 
which  increased  his  ill-humor. 

Michel  was  a  half-breed.  He  now  began  to 
threaten  his  companions,  and  to  express  his  hatred 
to  the  whites,  some  of  whom,  he  said,  had  killed 
and  eaten  his  uncle  and  two  of  his  relations.  In 
speaking  to  Dr  Richardson,  he  assumed  such  a 
tone  of  superiority  as  evinced  that  he  considered 
him  completely  in  his  power.  In  fine,  the  Doctor 
was  convinced  by  his  demeanor  that  he  would  de- 
stroy them  both  on  the  first  opportunity,  and  had 
only  refrained  from  so  doing  hitherto,  because  he 
did  not  know  the  way  to  the  fort.  In  the  course 
of  the  day,  he  several  times  remarked  that  they 
were  following  the  same  course  that  Capt.  Frank- 
lin had  done,  and  that  by  keeping  toward  the   set- 


POLAR   REGIONS.  461 

ting  sun,  he  could  find  the  way  himself.  Hepburn 
and  Dr  Richardson  were  not  in  a  condition  to  re- 
sist even  an  open  attack,  nor  could  they  by  any 
device  escape  from  him.  Their  united  strength 
was  far  inferior  to  his,  and,  beside  his  gun,  he  was 
armed  with  two  pistols,  an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a 
knife.  In  the  afternoon,  coming  to  a  rock,  on  which 
there  was  some  tripe  de  roche,  he  halted,  and  said 
he  would  gather  it  while  they  went  on,  and  that  he 
would  soon  overtake  them.  Hepburn  and  Dr  Rich- 
ardson were  now  left  together  for  the  first  time 
since  Mr  Hood's  death.  The  result  of  this  confer- 
ence was  a  conviction  that  there  was  no  safety  for 
them  but  in  Michel's  death,  and  Hepburn  offered  to 
be  the  instrument  of  it.  Dr  Richardson,  however, 
resolved  to  take  the  responsibility  on  himself;  and 
as  soon  as  Michel  came  up,  shot  him  through  the 
head  with  a  pistol.  It  then  appeared  that  he  had 
gathered  no  tripe  de  roche,  and  that  he  had  only 
halted  to  put  his  gun  in  order,  probably  w^ith  the 
intention  of  killing  them. 

Three  more  days  of  sickness  and  suffering 
brought  the  Doctor  and  Hepburn  within  sight  of 
the  Big  Rock,  a  large  stone  opposite  Fort  Enter- 
prise. The  sight  gave  them  new  vigor,  and  they 
pushed  on  with  a  resolution  to  get  to  the  end  of 
their  journey  that  day.  In  the  evening  they  saw 
several  herds  of  deer,  but  Hepburn,  who  was  a 
good  marksman,  was  unable  to  hold  out  his  gun  j 
and  though  he  got  near  them,  his  efforts  proved 
fruitless.      In   passing   through   a   small   grove   of 


39^ 


462  POLAR   REGIONS. 

pines,  they  saw  a  flock  of  partridges,  and  after  sev- 
eral shots  Hepburn  succeeded  in  killing  one. 

They  came  in  sight  of  the  fort  at  dusk,  and  were 
rejoiced  to  see  the  smoke  curling  from  the  chim- 
ney ;  for,  from  not  having  seen  any  footsteps  in  the 
vicinity,  they  had  been  agitated  by  melancholy  fore- 
bodings. On  entering  the  now  desolate  building, 
they  had  the  satisfaction  to  embrace  Capt.  Frank- 
lin ;  but  no  words  can  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
the  filth  and  wretchedness  that  met  their  eyes. 
Their  own  misery  had  stolen  on  them  by  degrees, 
and  they  were  each  accustomed  to  the  emaciated 
visage  of  the  other ;  but  the  ghastly  countenances, 
dilated  eyeballs,  and  sepulchral  voices  of  ihe  Cap- 
tain and  those  with  him,  were  more  than  they  could 
at  first  bear. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Death  of  Peltier  and  Samandre. — Extreme  Weakness  of  the  Survivors. — 
Their  Intellects  become  weak. — Arrival  of  Indians. — Their  Proceed- 
ings.— More  Indians  arrive. — Captain  Franklin  reaches  the  Camp  of 
Akaitcho. — Mr  Back's  Adventures. — Death  of  Beauparlant. — End  of 
the  Journey. 

In  the  evening  of  the  31st,  Peltier  and  Saman- 
dre complained  of  cold,  sore  throats,  and  cramps 
in  the  fingers.  On  the  1st  of  November,  Peltier 
could  not  eat  tripe  de  roche,  and  Samandre  but 
very  httle  of  it,  owing  to  the  soreness  of  their  throats. 
In  the  afternoon,  Peltier  was  so  far  exhausted  that 


POLAR    REGIONS.  463 

he  sat  up  with  difficulty.  At  last  he  slided  from 
his  stool  upon  his  bed,  as  the  others  supposed,  to 
sleep,  and  remained  quiet  upwards  of  two  hours. 
A  rattling  was  then  heard  in  his  throat,  and  on  the 
Doctor's  examining  him,  he  was  found  to  be 
speechless.  Samandre  sat  up  the  greater  part  of 
the  day,  and  even  assisted  to  pound  some  bones ; 
but  the  sad  condition  of  Peltier  rendered  him  me- 
lancholy, and  he  began  to  complain  of  cold  and  stiff- 
ness in  the  joints.  In  the  course  of  the  night 
Peltier  died,  and  Samandre  also  expired  before 
morning,  both  literally  starved  to  death.  The 
united  strength  of  the  survivors  was  inadequate  to 
remove  the  bodies  from  the  house. 

Peltier  had  fixed  on  the  1st  of  November,  as  the 
time  when  he  should  cease  to  expect  rehef  from 
the  Indians,  and  had  repeatedly  said  that  if  they 
did  not  arrive  by  that  day,  he  should  not  survive. 
He  was  dear  to  his  officers  for  his  cheerfulness, 
his  activity,  and  affiictionate  disposition,  and  up 
to  the  time  of  his  decease  he  had  nursed  Adam 
with  the  most  tender  solicitude.  Samandre  too  had 
been  wiUing  to  share  the  labors  of  the  party,  but 
had  been  unable. 

The  task  of  collecting  food  and  fuel  now  de- 
volved on  Dr  Richardson  and  Hepburn,  Adam  be- 
ing worse  than  ever,  and  Captain  Frankhn  too  fee- 
ble to  render  them  any  material  assistance.  As 
they  were  now  unable  to  go  in  search  of  wood, 
they  pulled  down  the  logs  of  which  the  store-house 
was  built. 

On  the  3d,  Hepburn  was  affected  by  sweUings 


464  POLAR    REGIONS. 

in  his  limbs,  and  his  strength  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Doctor  was  rapidly  declining.;  yet  they  continued 
full  of  hope.  Their  utmost  exertions  could  only 
renew  the  fire  thrice,  and  on  making  it  up  the  third 
time  they  went  to  bed.  Their  stock  of  bones  Avas 
this  day  exhausted. 

On  the  5th,  the  breezes  were  light,  with  dark 
cloudy  weather  and  some  snow.  The  Doctor  and 
Hepburn  were  getting  much  w^eaker,  and  the  limbs 
of  the  latter  were  now  greatly  swelled.  They  came 
into  the  house  frequently  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
to  rest  themselves ;  and,  when  once  seated,  were 
unable  to  rise  without  the  help  of  one  another,  or 
of  a  stick.  Adam  was  for  the  most  part  in  the 
same  low  state  as  before,  but  sometimes  he  sur- 
prised the  others  by  getting  up  and  walking  with 
an  appearance  of  increased  strength.  His  looks 
were  now  wild  and  ghastly,  and  his  conversa- 
tion was  often  incoherent. 

The  next  day  was  fine,  but  very  cold.  The 
swellings  in  Adam's  limbs  having  subsided,  he  was 
free  from  pain,  and  arose  this  morning  in  much 
better  spirits,  and  spoke  of  getting  his  gun  ready 
for  shooting  partridges  or  any  animals  that  might  ap- 
pear near  the  house  ;  but  his  tone  entirely  changed 
before  the  day  was  half  over:  he  became  again 
dejected,  and  could  scarcely  be  prevailed  upon  to 
eat.  The  Doctor  and  Hepburn  were  almost  ex- 
hausted. The  cutting  of  one  log  of  wood  occupied 
the  latter  half  an  hour ;  and  the  other  took  as  much 
time  to  drag  it  into  the  house,  though  the  distance 
did  not. exceed  thirty  yards. 


POLAR    REGIONS.  465 

Owing  to  their  loss  of  flesh,  the  hardness  of  the 
floor  gave  them  great  pain,  especially  in  those  parts 
on  which  the  weight  rested ;  yet  to  turn  over  for 
relief,  was  an  affair  of  toil  and  difficulty.  The 
acute  pains  of  hunger  had  now  subsided.  In  the 
day  time  they  conversed  on  light  and  trivial  subjects, 
avoiding  to  speak  of  their  situation,  or  even  of  the 
prospect  of  relief.  In  proportion  as  their  strength 
decayed,  their  minds  exhibited  symptoms  of  weak- 
ness, evinced  by  a  kind  of  unreasonable  pettish- 
ness  with  each  other.  Each  thought  the  other 
weaker  in  intellect  than  himself,  and  more  in  need 
of  advice  and  assistance.  So  trifling  a  circum- 
stance as  a  change  of  place,  recommended  by  one 
as  being  warmer  and  more  comfortable,  and  refused 
by  the  other  from  a  dread  of  motion,  frequently 
/Ji^called  forth  fretful  expressions,  which  were  no  soon- 
er uttered  than  atoned  for,  to  be  repeated  per- 
haps in  the  course  of  a  few  minutes.  The  same 
thing  often  occurred  when  they  endeavoured  to  as- 
sist each  other  in  carrying  wood  to  the  fire ;  none 
of  them  were  willing  to  receive  assistance,  although 
the  task  was  disproportioned  to  their  strength.  On 
one  of  these  occasions,  Hepburn  was  so  convinced 
of  this  waywardness,  that  he  exclaimed,  *  Dear  me, 
if  we  are  spared  to  return  to  England,  I  wonder  if 
we  shall  recover  our  understandings.' 

November  7. — Adam  passed  a  restless  night, 
being  disquieted  by  gloomy  apprehensions  of  ap- 
proaching death.  He  was  so  low  in  the  morning 
as  to  be  scarcely  able  to  speak.  Captain  Franklin 
remained  in  bed  by  his  side,  to  cheer  him  as  much 


466  POLAR    REGIONS. 

as  possible.  The  Doctor  and  Hepburn  went  to 
cut  wood.  They  had  hardly  begun  their  labor, 
when  they  were  amazed  at  hearing  the  report  of  a 
musket.  They  could  scarcely  believe  that  there 
was  really  any  one  near,  until  they  heard  a  shout, 
and  immediately  espied  three  Indians  close  to  the 
house.  Adam  and  the  Captain  heard  the  latter 
noise,  and  were  fearful  that  a  part  of  the  house  had 
fallen  upon  one  of  their  companions,  a  disaster 
which  had  in  fact  been  thought  not  unhkely.  The 
alarm  was  only  momentary ;  Dr  Richardson  came 
in  to  communicate  the  joyful  inteUigence  that  relief 
had  arrived.  Poor  Adam  was  in  so  low  a  state 
that  he  could  scarcely  comprehend  the  information. 
When  the  Indians  entered,  he  attempted  to  rise, 
but  sank  down  again.  But  for  this  seasonable  in* 
terposition  of  Providence,  his  existence  must  have 
terminated  in  a  few  hours,  and  that  of  the  rest  prob- 
ably in  not  many  days. 

The  Indians  had  left  Akaitcho's  encampment  on 
the  5th  November,  having  been  sent  by  Mr  Back 
with  all  possible  expedition,  after  he  had  arrived  at 
their  tents.  They  brought  but  a  small  supply  of 
provision,  that  they  might  travel  quickly.  Though 
perfectly  aware  of  the  consequence,  the  sufferers 
ate  immoderately.  Dr  Richardson  cautioned  them 
to  refrain,  but  was  himself  unable  to  practise  the 
caution  he  recommended.  The  result  was  that 
they  suffered  dreadfully  from  indigestion,  in  the 
night. 

One  of  the  Indians  was  instantly  despatched  for 
a   fresh   supply  of  food,  while  the  other  two  re- 


POLAR    REGIONS.  467 

mained  to  take  care  of  the  sufferers.  These  kind 
creatures  did  all  in  their  power  to  make  them  com- 
fortable, keeping  up  good  fires  and  feeding  them. 
They  also  persuaded  them'  to  shave,  an  operation 
they  had  not  performed  since  leaving  the  sea 
coast. 

No  supply  arrived,  and  the  Indians  became  de- 
spondent, thinking  that  some  accident  had  befallen 
their  companion.  On  the  evening  of  the  13th, 
they  departed  without  saying  a  word  to  any  one, 
leaving  the  party  a  second  time  w^ithout  food, 
and  with  appetites  excited  by  recent  indulgence. 
They  were  beginning  to  despair,  w^hen  on  the 
15th,  a  party  of  Indians  arrived  with  provisions. 
It  was  important  to  get  among  the  reindeer  be- 
fore the  present  supply  should  fail,  and  they  left 
Fort  Enterprise  the  next  morning.  They  made 
but  slow  progress,  but  the  Indians  treated  them 
with  a  humanity  that  would  have  done  honor  to 
the  most  civilized  people.  They  gave  them  their 
snow-shoes,  going  without  themselves,  and  walked 
beside  them  to  assist  them  when  they  fell.  They 
prepared  the  encampments,  cooked,  and  fed  them 
like  children,  till,  on  the  26th,  they  all  arrived  at 
the  camp  of  Akaitcho,  where  they  were  received 
with  the  utmost  kindness.  Here  Capt.  Franklin 
learned  that  Mr  Back  had  gone  to  Fort  Providence 
with  his  men. 

We  have  not  room  to  follow  Capt.  Frankhn  to 
England.  Of  Augustus  the  Esquimaux  and  Be- 
noit,  who  left  him  at  Fort  Enterprise,  suffice  it  to 
say,  that  he  found  them  aUve  and  well  in  the  camp 


468  POLAR    REGIONS. 

of  Akaitcho.  The  adventures  of  Mr  Back  and  his 
men,  however,  who  it  will  be  remembered  parted 
from  the  Captain  on  the  5th  of  October,  claim 
some  further  notice. 

Their  sufferings  on  the  way  to  Fort  Enterprise, 
which  they  reached  on  the  10th,  were  scarcely 
less  than  those  of  Capt.  Franklin  and  his  party. 
On  reaching  the  house  and  finding  it  desolate, 
Mr  Back  determined  to  go  in  search  of  the  In* 
dians,  which  resolution  he  carried  into  effect  by 
leaving  the  house  on  the  eleventh. 

A  lake  was  in  their  road  which  was  not  frozen ; 
and  while  waiting  for  the  ice  to  make,  Mr  Back 
despatched  Belanger  to  Fort  Enterprise,  where  he 
arrived,  as  has  already  been  related.  In  his  ab- 
sence, Mr  Back  proceeded  along  the  lake  toward  a 
place  where  St  Germain  stated  that  plenty  of  fish 
might  be  caught.  They  had  not  gone  far,  w^hen 
Beauparlant  complained  of  increasing  weakness  ; 
but  this  was  so  common  an  occurrence,  and  all 
were  so  feeble,  that  no  notice  was  taken  of  it.  While 
they  stopped  to  rest,  he  was  told  that  a  grove  of 
pines  near  them  would  be  the  place  of  encamp- 
ment. He  desired  them  to  go  thither,  saying  that 
he  would  follow  at  his  leijsure,  and  they  gained 
the  spot  accordingly.  Here  a  flock  of  crows 
guided  them  to  some  heads  of  deer,  half  buried  in 
snow  and  ice,  which  the  previous  severity  of  the 
weather  had  compelled  the  wolves  to  abandon. 
At  the  sight  of  this  supply,  Mr  Back  and  St  Ger- 
main exclaimed,  '  0  merciful  God,  we  are  saved!' 

Darkness  stole  over  them,  and  Beauparlant  did 


POLAR    REGIONS.  469 

not  arrive,  though  he  answered  to  their  calls.  A 
fog  rendered  the  atmosphere  still  thicker,  so  that 
they  dared  not  go  for  him,  lest  they  should  not  be 
able  to  find  the  way  back.  In  the  morning,  St 
Germain  went  for  him,  and  found  him  stretched  on 
his  back,  frozen  to  death,  his  hmbs  swelled  and  ex- 
tended, and  as  hard  as  the  ice  around  him. 

On  the  same  day  Belanger  returned  to  Mr  Back 
from  Fort  Enterprise.  Mr  Back  would  then  have 
gone  to  Reindeer  Lake,  but  the  men  refused  to  stir 
till  they  should  in  some  degree  have  recovered  their 
strength.  Here  then  they  remained,  subsisting  on 
the  remains  they  had  found  till  the  SOth^  when,  hav- 
ing with  great  care  collected  two  small  packets  of 
meat  and  sinews,  they  started  on  the  direct  road  to 
Fort  Providence. 

They  had  the  farther  good  fortune  to  take  the  re- 
mains of  a  deer  from  some  wolves  that  had  just  kill- 
ed it.  After  walking  till  the  3d,  they  came  to  the 
footsteps  of  Indians,  when  Mr  Back  and  Belanger 
encamped,  while  St  Germain  went  forward  ;  and,  ar- 
riving at  the  camp  of  Akaitcho  before  night,  sent 
a  supply  of  food  to  them.  On  Mr  Back's  arrival  at 
the  tents,  relief  was  sent  to  those  at  Fort  Enter- 
prise, as  before  -related. 

Little  remains  to  say.  Care,  kind  attention,  and 
improved  diet  gradually  restored  the  health  and 
strength  of  Captain  Franklin  and  his  fellow-travel- 
lers. By  the  return  of  spring  they  had  nearly  re- 
gained their  ordinary  state  of  health.  Hepburn  alone 
suffered  from  a  severe  attack  of  rheumatism,  which 
confined  him  to  his  bed  for  several  weeks. 
40 


470  POLAR    REGIONS. 

On  the   14th  of  July   following,  they  arrived  at 
York  Factory,  where  they  embarked  for  England. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Second  Journey  of  Captain  Franklin. — Attack  by  the  Esquimaux. — De- 
scription of  the  Esquimaux. — Their  Women. — Farther  Progress. — The 
Expedition  returns. — Capt.  Beechy. — Doctor  Richardson's  Voyage. — The 
Esquimaux. — Their  Huts. — Observations  on  the  Magnetic  Pole. 

We  shall  give  but  a  sketch  of  the  second  journey 
of  Captain  Frankhn  to  the  Polar  Sea.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  accompany  him  through  the  difficul- 
ties of  rapids,  portages,  &c.  or  over  that  part  of  the 
continent  described  in  previous  chapters.  We  shall 
commence  at  w^here  the  Great  Bear  Lake  River 
flowing  out  of  Great  Bear  Lake,  joins  Mackenzie's 
River.  Up  this  stream  the  expedition  proceeded 
to  the  Great  Bear  Lake,  where  they  passed  the 
winter  of  1825-6. 

As  soon  as  the  season  opened,  the  Expedition 
moved  down  the  Mackenzie's  River  to  the  Ocean. 
Thence  Dr  Richardson  sailed  eastward  along  the 
coast,  and  Captain  Franklin  westward.  The  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie's  is  in  latitude  69^"  25',  and  longi- 
tude 135**  4V.  The  river  is  too  well  known  from 
the  account  of  Mackenzie,  to  need  any  descrip- 
tion here. 

Captain  Franklin  had  scarcely  cleared  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  when  he  perceived  a  crowd  of  Esqui- 
maux tents  on  an   island,   and  proceeded  toward 


POLAR    REGIONS.  471 

them.     The  water  became   shallow   as  the  boats 
neared  the  island,  and  they  grounded  a  mile  from 
the  beach.     In  a  very  few  minutes  they  were  sur- 
rounded with  canoes,   so  many,  indeed,  that   they 
were   unable    to   count   them.      Their    occupants 
amounted  to  some  hundreds  of  men.     A  barter  was 
begun,  and  the  savages  at  last  becoming  troublesome 
from  their  eagerness.  Captain  Franklin  determined 
to  leave  them.     It  was  too  late ;  the  tide  had  ebbed 
too  far,  and  the  boats  were    fast  aground.     In  this 
situation  it  happened  that  a  canoe  was  upset  by  the 
stroke  of  an  oar,  and  the  wet  savage  was  taken  into 
the  Captain's   boat,  wherein   he  discovered  many 
bales    and   other   articles.     He  communicated   his 
observations  to  his  comrades,  who  then  commenced 
a  general  pillage,  which  was  resisted  by  the  whites, 
without,  however,  much   violence    on    either    side. 
At  the  request  of  Captain   Franklin,  these  people  ^ 
retired,  but  it  was  only  to  concert  a  plan  of  attack. 
They  returned,  and  laying  hands  on  the  boats,  drag- 
ged them  high  and  dry  on  the  beach.  Then,  drawing 
their  long  knives,  they  renewed  their  depredations, 
handing  the  articles,  as  they  took  them,  to  the  wo- 
men, who  quickly  conveyed  them  out  of  sight.  They 
received  blows,  even  with  the  buts  of  muskets  with 
much  indifference,  and  brandished  their  knives  in  a 
furious  manner  ;  but  in  two  instances  only  did  they 
attempt   to   stab.      The   whites   manifested   much 
forbearance,  during  these  proceedings,  which  lasted 
several  hours ;   but  at  last,    as  the  tide  was   rising, 
Lieut.  Back  directed  his  men  to  level  their  muskets, 
and  the  savages  fled.     As  the  boats  left  the  beach, 


472  POLAR    REGIONS. 

they  prepared  to  follow;  but  on  hearing   Captain 
Franklin  threaten  to  fire  on  them,  they  desisted. 

The  boats  grounded  again,  and  Augustus,  the  in- 
terpreter, waded  ashore,  and  rebuked  them  for  their 
conduct ;  notwithstanding  which,  when  the  boat  got 
again  in  motion,  they  followed,  and  were  only  pre- 
vented from  attacking  by  fear  of  the  fire-arms.  As 
these  people  were  like  all  the  Esquimaux  subse- 
quently seen,  in  dress,  personal  appearance,  &c.  a 
description  of  them  will  serve  for  the  whole  ;  though 
it  was  remarked  that  the  farther  the  whites  advan- 
ced westward,  the  nearer  the  features  of  the  natives 
resembled  those  of  Tartars.  Every  man  had  pieces  of 
shells  thrust  through  the  septum  of  his  nose  ;  and 
bone  or  holes  w^ere  pierced  on  each  side  of  the  under 
lip,  in  which  w^ere  placed  circular  pieces  of  ivory,  with 
alarge  blue  bead  in  the  centre,  similar  to  those  repre- 
sented in  the  drawings  of  the  natives  on  the  N.  W. 
coast  of  America,  in  Kotzebue's  Voyage.  These 
ornaments  were  so  much  valued,  that  they  declined 
selling  them  ;  and  when  not  rich  enough  to  procure 
beads  or  ivory,  stones  and  pieces  of  bone  were  sub- 
stituted. These  perforations  are  made  at  the  age 
of  puberty  ;  and  one  of  the  party,  who  appeared  to 
be  about  fourteen  years  old,  was  pointed  out,  with 
delight,  by  his  parents,  as  having  to  undergo  the 
operation  in  the  following  year.  He  was  a  good- 
looking  boy,  and  Capt.  F.  could  not  fancy  his  coun- 
tenance would  be  much  improved  by  the  insertion 
of  the  bones  or  stones,  which  have  the  effect  of 
depressing  the  under  hp,  and  keeping  the  mouth 
open.' 


POLAR   REGIONS.  473 

With  regard  to  the  women,  Captain  Franklin  ob- 
serves, 

*  Their  own  black  hair  is  very  tastefully  turned 
up  from  behind  to  the  top  of  the  head,  and  tied  by 
strings  of  white  and  blue  beads,  or  cords  of  white 
deer-skin.  It  is  divided  in  front,  so  as  to  form  on 
each  side  a  thick  tail,  to  which  are  appended  strings 
of  beads  that  reach  to  the  waist.  The  women  were 
from  four  feet  and  a  half  to  four  and  three-quarters 
high,  and  generally  fat.  Some  of  the  younger  fe- 
males, and  the  children,  were  pretty.  The  men, 
when  sitting  for  their  portraits,  were  more  sedate, 
though  not  less  pleased,  than  the  females  :  some  of 
them  remarked  that  they  were  not  handsome  enough 
to  be  taken  to  our  country.' 

Having  passed  the  first  range  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, between  it  and  the  second,  a  large  river, 
at  least  two  miles  broad,  was  observed  to  empty 
itself  into  the  Polar  Sea,  after  coming,  as  the  Es- 
quimaux informed  them,  from  a  distant  part  of  the 
interior.  Near  to  Herschel's  Island,  in  latitude  69* 
33'  N.,  longitude  139"  3'  W.,  was  another  river, 
which  they  called  the  Mountain  Indian  River.  Here 
they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  who  traded 
up  that  river  and  to  the  westward  with  their  country- 
men, who  obtain  their  goods  from  white  people,  and 
which  Capt.  Franklin  had  no  doubt,  from  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  articles,  were  of  Russian  manufac- 
ture. There  is  another  large  river,  to  which  thej 
gave  the  name  of  Clarence  :  here  they  found  among 
the  drift  timber  on  the  beach  a  pine-tree,  seven  feet 
and  a  quarter  in  girth  and  thirty-six  feet  long,  and 
40=^ 


474  POLAR    REGIONS. 

many  others  were  seen  of  not  much  inferior  size, 
.which  must  have  grown  considerably  to  the  south- 
ward. 

It  was  the  16th  of  August  before  the  boats  reach- 
ed the  half-way  point  between  the  Mackenzie's  River 
and  Icy  Cape,  being  often  detained  by  ice  and  by. 
contrary  winds,  &-c.  Captain  Franklin,  therefore, 
determined  to  turn  back.  Captain  Beechy,  who, 
with  the  view  of  meeting  Captain  Franklin,  had  sail- 
ed to  Bhering's  Straits,  proceeded  an  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  beyond  Icy  Cape,  or  within  a  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miles  of  the  spot  w^hence  Captain 
Franklin  turned  back.  On  the  24th  of  August,  he 
reached  a  low,  sandy  point,  extending  so  far  north 
that  he  was  unable  to  proceed  round  it,  and  it  was 
with  much  difficulty  that  he  got  back  to  his  vessel. 

The  distance  of  the  coast,  traced  westw^ard  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  was  three  hundred  and 
seventyfour  miles,  without  one  harbour  in  which^ 
a  ship  could  find  shelter.  It  is,  in  fact,  one  of 
the  most  dreary,  miserable,  and  uninteresting 
portions  of  sea-coast  to  be  found  in  any  part  of 
the  world. 

On  the  21st  of  September,  this  western  expedition 
reached  Fort  Franklin,  where  they  had  the  happi- 
ness of  meeting  all  their  friends,  the  eastern  detach- 
ment under  Dr  Richardson  having  arrived  on  the 
1st,  after  a  most  successful  voyage,  at  which  we 
must  now  take  a  passing  glance. 

Dr  Richardson  was  much  more  fortunate  than 
the  western  party  in  the  nature  of  the  navigation  he 
had  to  perform,  and  of  the  coast  between  the  mouths 


POLAR   REGIONS.  475 

of  the  two  rivers.  It  is  a  voyage  of  about  five  hun- 
dred miles,  v^hich  he  accomplished  between  the  4th 
of  July  and  the  8th  of  August.  The  Esquimaux 
they  met  with  on  various  parts  of  the  coast,  as  well 
as  on  the  islands  formed  by  the  reaches  of  the 
Mackenzie's  River,  were  more  numerous,  more 
peaceable,  and,  apparently,  more  wealthy,  than  those 
to  the  westward  ;  but,  like  all  savage  nations,  they 
neglected  no  opportunity  of  stealing,  while  carrying 
on  barter,  whatever  they  could  lay  hands  on.  Howev- 
er, with  the  exception  of  one  party,  who  had  about 
fifty  kaiyacks,  no  violence  was  attempted.  This 
exception  was  occasioned  by  the  boats  grounding, 
when  an  attack,  similar  to  that  on  Capt.  Franklin,  was 
made,  but  immediately  repelled  by  the  show  of  fire- 
arms, the  use  of  which  the  aggressors  appeared 
perfectly  to  understand, — the  result,  no  doubt,  of 
experience  acquired  in  contest  with  the  neighbour- 
ing Indians. 

Their  winter-huts  are  of  a  superior  kind ;  they 
are  met  with  in  whole  villages,  constructed  of  drift- 
wood trees,  planted  generally  in  the  sand  with  the 
roots  uppermost.  '  These  villages,'  says  Dr  Rich- 
ardson, '  when  seen  through  a  hazy  atmosphere, 
frequently  resembled  a  crowd  of  people,  and  some- 
times we  fancied  they  were  not  unlike  the  spires  of 
a  town  appearing  above  the  horizon.'  The  size  and 
quantity  of  this  timber  is  quite  surprising.  One 
straight  log  of  spruce  fir  is  mentioned,  thirty  feet 
long,  seven  feet  in  circumference  at  the  small  end, 
and  twelve  a  short  distance  above  the  root.  '  There 
is    such  an   abundance  of  drift-timber,'   says   Dr 


p* 


476  POLAR    REGIONS. 

Richardson,  'on  almost  every  part  of  the  coast, 
that  a  sufficient  supply  of  fuel  for  a  ship  might 
easily  be  collected ;  and,'  he  adds,  *  should  the 
course  of  events  ever  introduce  a  steam-vessel  into 
those  seas,  it  may  be  important  to  knovi^  that,  in 
coasting  the  shores  between  Cape  Bathurst  and  the 
Mackenzie's,  fire-wood  sufficient  for  her  daily  con- 
sumption may  be  gathered.' 

Doctor  Richardson  then  proceeded  up  the  Cop- 
permine to  the  portage  between  that  river  and 
Great  Bear  Lake,  by  which  he  returned  to  the  quar- 
ters of  the  preceding  winter,  and  so  ended  the 
travels  of  the  expedition,  so  far,  at  least,  as  we 
have  anything  to  do  with  them. 

The  lowest  temperature  witnessed  by  the  expe- 
dition was  on  the  7th  of  February  of  the  second 
winter  passed  at  Bear  Lake.  The  mercury  de- 
scended to  — 58,  having  stood  at  about  — 57°  for 
two  days. 

A  few  remarks  respecting  the  magnetic  pole 
must  close  this  chapter.  Its  position,  as  com- 
puted from  Capt.  Franklin's  observations  by 
Professor  Barlow,  is  in  69°  16'  north  latitude, 
and  98°  8'  west  longitude,  and  by  the  obser- 
vations of  Captain  Parry  in  lat.  70°  43'  north, 
long.  98°  54'  west,  its  mean  place  being  in  lat.  70° 
0'  north,  long.  98°  31'  west,  which  is  between  Port 
Bowen  and  Fort  Franklin ;  the  former  being  sit- 
uated in  lat.  73°  14'  north,  long.  88°  54'  west,  and 
the  latter  in  65°  12'  north,  long.  123°  12'  west.  It 
appears,  therefore,  that  during  the  same  months,  at 
the  interval  of  only  one  year.   Captains  Parry   and 


POLAR   REGIONS.  477 

Franklin  were  making  hourly  observations  on  two 
needles,  the  north  ends  of  which  pointed  almost 
directly  towards  each  other,  though  their  actual 
distance  did  not  exceed  eight  hundred  and  fiftyfive 
geographical  miles ;  and  while  the  needle  of  Port 
Bowen  was  increasing  its  westerly  direction,  Capt. 
Franklin's  was  increasing  its  easterly,  and  the  con- 
trary,— the  variation  being  west  at  Port  Bowen  and 
east  at  Fort  Franklin ;  a  beautiful  and  satisfactory 
proof  of  the  solar  influence  on  the  daily  variation. 


NOTICE  OF  KOTZEBUE'S  VOYAGE. 


Arrival  of  Lieut.  Kotzebue  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.-^Discovery  of  a 
fourth  Island  in  the  Gwozdeff  Group. — Dwellings  of  the  Natives.— 
Conduct  of  the  Savages.— Appearance  of  the  Land.— The  Natives. — 
Ice- Bergs  on  Land. — Researches  in  Kotzbeue's  Sound.— Advantages 
of  this  Discovery. 

The  voyage  of  Lieut.  Kotzebue  of  the  Russian 
navy  was  undertaken  with  the  purpose  of  effecting 
a  passage  round  the  northern  coast  of  America  by 
the  w^ay  of  Bhering's  Strait.  That,  and  the  only 
part  of  it  which  comes  within  the  scope  of  our  un- 
dertaking, relates  to  the  proceedings  of  Lieut.  Kot- 
zebue subsequent  to  leaving  Kamschatka. 

On  the  30th  of  July,  1817,  the  Rurick,  Mr  Kot- 
zebue's  vessel,  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales,  the  Asiatic  coast  being  visible  at  the  same 
time,  as  w^ell  as  Gwozdeff's  Islands.  According 
to  Cook,  there  are  three  islands  in  this  group ;  but 
Mr  Kotzebue  discovered  a  fourth,  much  larger  than 
the  rest,  which  he  called  Ratmanoff's  Island.  A 
low  land  extends  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to 
the  westward,  on  which  groups  of  natives  were 
seen.  The  coast  appeared  green,  but  no  trees 
were  observed.  Many  habitations  were  seen,  in- 
dicating a  numerous  population. 

Taking  an  east-northeast  direction,  the  Rurick 
came  to  a  bay,  which  Mr  Kotzebue  determined  to 
explore,  and  accordingly  landed  near  some  huts, 
into  which  he  went.  The  inhabitants  had  fled. 
The  interior  of  these  dwelhngs  was  cleanly  and 


POLAR    REGIONS.  479 

convenient.  The  whites  first  entered  an  apart- 
ment ten  feet  long,  seven  broad,  and  seven  high. 
The  walls  were  of  mud,  but  were  covered  on  the 
outside  with  wood.  From  this  room  they  crept, 
through  a  pit,  into  another,  and  from  thence  to  a 
spacious  anti-room,  the  four  walls  of  which  were 
ten  feet  long  and  six  feet  high.  The  permanent 
construction  of  these  buildings  indicated  a  settled 
people,  and  the  piles  of  blubber  found  in  them 
showed  that  they  drew  their  subsistence  from  the 
sea. 

After  looking  about,  Mr  Kotzebue  discovered 
that  he  was  on  an  island,  and  that  there  was  a  deep 
bay  to  the  eastward,  into  which  the  Rurick  sailed  a 
short  distance.  Here  they  saw  two  of  the  natives, 
who  were  afraid  to  hold  communication  with  them. 
Their  clothing  was  made  of  the  intestines  of  whales ; 
their  appearance  was  very  filthy,  and  their  counte- 
nances had  an  expression  of  ferocity.  This  bay 
received  the  name  of  SchischmarefF.  Before  the 
Rurick  left  it,  more  of  the  savage  s  approached  her, 
with  threats ;  but  were  daunted  at  the  sight  of  the 
sabres  of  the  crew,  having  probably  been  made 
acquainted  with  the  use  of  this  weapon  by  the 
savages  of  the  opposite  coast  of  Asia.  They  were 
dressed  in  short  garments  of  reindeer  skin,  and 
wore  their  hair  short.  They  also  had  walrus  bones 
under  their  lips,  which  gave  their  disagreeable 
countenances  a  disgusting  appearance. 

Proceeding  along  the  coast,  it  was  observed  that 
the  shore  vanished  in  the  east,  and  high  mountains 
were  seen   to  the   northward.      Lieut.    Kotzebue 


480  POLAR    REGIONS. 

now  flattered  himself  that  he  was  at  the  entrance 
of  the  much  desired  northeast  passage,  and  his  ob- 
servations from  a  hill  on  shore  confirmed  him  in  the 
opinion.  No  land  was  to  be  seen  to  the  eastward, 
and  he  supposed  that  the  mountains  to  the  north- 
ward either  formed  islands,  or  were  a  coast  by 
themselves.  From  the  eminence  where  he  stood, 
there  was  an  extensive  view  into  the  country,  which 
stretched  out  into  a  large  plain,  here  and  there 
broken  by  ponds  and  marshes.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  the  earth  was  green  and  there  w^ere 
flowers  in  blossom ;  but  on  penetrating  six  inches, 
ice  and  frost  were  found  everywhere.  While  sit- 
ting here,  five  canoes,  with  each  from  eight  to  ten 
Indians,  landed  near  the  whiles.  The  savages  left 
most  of  their  arms  in  their  canoes,  but  retained 
their  knives,  which,  like  the  Esquimaux,  they  con- 
cealed in  their  sleeves. 

These  people  had  probably  never  seen  Euro- 
peans before  ;  yet  they  were  acquainted  with  the 
use  of  tobacco,  which  they  chewed  and  smoked. 
They  were  of  a  middle  size,  ugly  and  dirty,  and 
healthy  in  appearance.  Their  motions  were  Hvely, 
and  they  seemed  inclined  to  merriment.  Their 
features  had  an  expression  of  wantonness,  but  not 
of  stupidity.  In  some  particulars  they  resembled 
the  Esquimaux ;  for  instance,  in  the  size  and  ob- 
liquity of  their  eyes,  and  in  the  practice  of  wear- 
ing walrus  bones  stuck  through  the  sides  of  their 
mouths.  They  understood  trading  very  well,  and 
were  very  happy  when  they  imagined  they  had 
cheated  their  visitors.     Their  arms   were   spears, 


^  POLAR     REGIONS.  481 

bows,  arrows  and  knives.  Their  spears  were  of 
iron,  like  those  sold  by  the  Russians  to  the  Ischuk- 
utskoi;  their  beads  also,  which  were  like  those 
worn  by  the  savages  of  Asia,  prove  that  they  have 
some  intercourse  with  that  continent. 

Sailing  up  the  opening,  on  the  3d  of  August,  the 
Rurick  came  to  an  opening  five  miles  broad,  which 
appeared  to  run  without  impediment  to  the  hori- 
zon, and  Lieut.  Kotzebue  was  still  persuaded  that 
he  had  entered  the  northeast  passage.  On  the  7th, 
the  Rurick  came  in  sight  of  the  bottom  of  the  inlet 
Here  the  land  rises  a  little  from  the  water,  and 
is  covered  with  moss.  Some  of  the  party  re- 
mained on  shore  here  a  whole  day,  and  made  a 
very  remarkable  discovery. 

They  had  clomb  much  about  without  discover- 
ing that  they  were  on  real  ice-bergs.  Dr  Esch- 
scholtz,  who  had  extended  his  excursions,  found 
part  of  the  bank  broken  down,  and  saw,  to  his  as- 
tonishment, that  the  hill  consisted  of  pure  ice.  At 
this  news,  all  went,  with  picks  and  shovels,  to  ex- 
amine the  place,  and  soon  arrived  where  the  bank 
rose  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  sea  to  the 
height  of  an  hundred  feet,  and  then  ran  off  much 
higher.  They  saw  masses  of  pure  ice  an  hundred 
feet  high,  under  a  cover  of  moss  and  grass.  In 
the  ruptured  part,  a  great  number  of  mammoths* 
teeth  and  bones  were  exposed  by  the  melting. 
The  covering  of  these  bergs,  on  which  grass  grows 
luxuriantly,  is  only  half  a  foot  thick,  and  consists  of 
a  mixture  of  clay,  sand  and  earth.  In  the  back 
41 


482  POLAR   REGIONS.       m 

ground  of  this  bay,  there  is  a  range  of  high  Inoun- 
tains.     The  latitude  is  66""  15'  north. 

Lieut.  Kotzebue  continued  to  explore  this  great 
inlet  till  the  14th  of  the  month,  in  the  hope  of  find- 
ing a  passage  eastward,  or  at  least  a  river ;  but  his 
labors  were  useless,  as  it  finally  became  certain 
that  no  passage  existed  here.  Mr  Kotzebue  gave 
the  gulf  his  own  name,  and  it  is  marked  on  the  map 
as  Kotzebue's  Sound. 

During  his  perquisitions  in  this  quarter,  he  saw 
many  of  the  natives,  who  resembled  those  already 
described.  One  only  of  them  could  be  persuaded 
to  come  on  board  the  Rurick.  He  was  a  robust 
young  man,  who  appeared  to  be  a  chief.  His  aston- 
ishment at  what  he  saw  in  the  vessel  was  great ; 
he  looked  about  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  without 
speaking,  and  then  went  away  to  communicate  his 
observations  to  his  people. 

On  one  occasion,  they  were  seen  eating.  A  seal 
which  had  just  been  killed  was  cut  open  in  the 
middle,  and  they  put  their  heads  into  the  belly  to 
suck  the  blood,  one  after  another.  After  they  had 
drank  sufficiently  in  this  manner,  a  piece  of  flesh 
was  cut  off  and  eaten  raw  by  each,  and  they  fed 
with  great  appetite. 

It  is  impossible  to  say,  from  the  data  furnished 
by  Lieut.  Kotzebue,  whether  these  people  w^ere  Es- 
quimaux or  not.  He  has  not  given  us  any  remarks 
on  their  language,  or  the  manner  in  which  their 
weapons,  canoes,  &c.  are  constructed.  Of  their 
canoes,  he  only  says  that  they  were  made  of  leath- 
er.    Their  clothing,  as  he  describes  it,  was  unhke 


POLAR    REGIONS.  483 

the  dresses   seen  by   Capt.  Franklin ;  but  in  their^ 
manner  of  life   and  physical  appearance,  they  in  a 
great  measure  resemble  the  Esquimaux. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  the  Rurick  reached  the 
promontory  which  forms  the  northern  entrance  of 
Kotzebue's  Sound,  to  which  the  name  of  Cape 
Krusenstern  was  given.  What  the  Lieutenant,  on  en- 
tering the  gulf,  took  for  islands  in  the  north,  proved  to 
be  very  high  lands :  on  a  low  point,  which  extends 
from  it  to  the  west,  many  huts  were  seen.  The  in- 
habitants were  running  about  on  the  shore,  and 
some  of  them  endeavoured  to  come  to  the  vessel  in 
canoes,  but  in  vain,  as  the  wind  was  in  her  favor. 

From  Cape  Krusenstern  the  land  forms  a  bend 
to  the  northeast,  and  then  inclines  to  the  northw  est, 
where  it  ends  in  a  very  high  promontory,  supposed 
by  Lieut.  Kotzebue  to  be  the  Cape  Mulgrave  of 
Capt.  Cook.     It  is  in  latitude  67°  45'. 

According  to  his  instructions,  Lieut.  Kotzebue 
should  have  looked  for  a  safe  anchoring  place  in 
Norton  Sound,  and  thence  have  proceeded  the 
next  year  to  examine  the  coast;  but  as  he  had 
now  discovered  a  convenient  anchoring  place,  he 
deemed  a  voyage  to  Norton  Sound  quite  unneces- 
sary. He  therefore  determined  to  return  to  the 
Asiatic  coast. 

The  discoveries  of  .Mr  Kotzebue  on  the  North- 
west coast  of  America  began  and  ended  at  the 
sound  which  bears  his  name.  Inconsiderable  as 
this  may  be,  it  is  still  an  important  acquisition  to 
geography ;  for,  in  truth,  even  Capt.  Cook  treated 
this  coast  rather  negligently.     This  gulf  may  in  time 


484  POLAR    REGIONS. 

be  of  essential  advantage  to  the  fur  trade,  as  the 
animals  are  there  found  in  abundance.  Besides, 
the  navigatio  n  of  Bhering's  Strait  has  hitherto  been 
dangerous,  because  the  masters  of  ships,  in  case  of 
wreck  or  other  accidents,  knew  no  port  where  they 
might  run  for  shelter.  This  difficulty  is  now^ removed, 
and  those  who  shall  in  future  visit  this  part  of  the 
coast  will  find  the  essential  benefit  of  the  discovery. 

Though  the  crew  of  the  Ruiick  often  threw  out 
their  lines,  they  caught  no  fish,  nor  were  any  seen 
on  all  the  American  coast.  Mr  Kotzebue  is,  there- 
fore, of  opinion  that  there  are  none,  or  that  they  do 
not  resort  thither  in  summer.  Of  sea  animals  there 
is  abundan€e,  on  which  the  natives  appear  to  sub- 
sist entirely. 

Dr  Eschscholtz,  who  daily  observed  the  water 
in  the  sound  with  an  areometer,  found  it  very  fresh, 
which  probably  arises  from  the  melting  of  ice,  or 
perhaps  there  is  a  large  river  in  the  vicinity,  which 
escaped  observation.  On  the  whole,  it  was  found 
that  the  water  on  the  American  coast  contains  much 
less  salt  than  that  on  the  Asiatic. 

The  mean  height  of  the  thermometer  out  of  Kot- 
zebue's  Sound  was  +9^ ;  within  it,  the  average  was 
+11°,  all  of  which  must  be  understood  of  the  Amer- 
ican coast  only. 

We  have  now  accomplished  what  we  proposed 
to  do,  as  far  as  our  abihties  and  hmits  permitted. 
Many  things  have  been  unavoidably  omitted ;  but 
we  trust  that  we  have  given  every  material  fact 
connected  with  our  subject. 


APPENDIX. 


A  full  description  of  the  forms,  habits,  &,c.  of  the  animals 
found  in  the  arctic  regions  would  suffice  to  fill  a  quarto ,  at  least. 
Therefore  we  premise,  that  our  brief  account  of  the  most 
remarkable  will  necessarily  be  imperfect.  We  refer  those 
who  wish  to  be  better  informed  on  this  subject  to  Dr  Richard- 
son's complete  and  elegant  work,  the  Fauna  Boreah  Ameri- 
cana. 

Ursus  Maritimus.    (Cuvier.)  The  Polar  Bear. 

This  animal  is  distinguished  from  the  other  species  by  its 
narrow  head  and  muzzle,  prolonged  on  a  straight  line  with  the 
flattened  forehead  ;  its  short  ears  ;  long  neck  ;  the  greater 
length  of  its  body  in  proportion  to  its  height  ;  the  soles  of  the 
hinder  feet  equalling  one  sixth  of  the  length  of  its  body  ;  and, 
lastly,  the  quality  of  its  fur,  which  is  very  thick  and  long  on  the 
body,  still  more  so  on  the  limbs,  and  every  where  of  a  yellowish 
white  color.  The  naked  extremity  of  the  snout,  the  tongue, 
margins  of  the  eyelids,  and  claws,  are  black  ;  the  lips  purplish 
black,  and  the  interior  of  the  mouth  pale  violet.  It  resides  most- 
ly on  fields  of  ice,  and  is  found  on  all  the  Asiatic  coasts  of  the 
Frozen  Ocean  as  well  as  in  Spitzbergen,  Nova  Zembla,  Green- 
land, Labrador,  the  shores  of  Hudson's  and  Baffin's  Bays, 
and  sometimes  along  the  northern  shore  of  America.  The 
female  produces  two  young  at  a  time.  Its  length,  when  full 
grown,  is  eight  feet  eight  inches,  and  its  weight  is  sixteen  hun  , 
dred  pounds.  The  polar  bear  is  carnivorous. 
41* 


486  APPENDIX. 

Ursus  HoRRiBiLis,     (Say.)    The  Grizzly j  or  Grisly,  Bear. 

Inhabits  the  western  prairies  and  Rocky  Mountains,  as  far 
north  as  latitude  61°,  perhaps  still  farther.  Its  fur  is  long,  and 
of  a  dark  brown  color,  with  paler  tips,  that  on  the  flanks  being 
lighter  in  summer,  and  there  is  often  a  mixture  of  grey  hairs  on 
the  head.  The  muzzle  is  pale.  It  is  distinguished  from  the 
black  and  brown  bears,  by  shorter  and  more  conical  ears, 
placed  further  apart,  and  white,  arched,  and  very  long  claws, 
compressed  like  the  incisors  of  a  squirrel,  carrying  their  breadth 
on  their  upper  surface  nearly  to  the  tips,  and  are  sharp  under- 
neath. They  project  far  beyond  the  hair  of  the  foot,  and  cut 
like  knives,  when  the  animal  strikes  a  blow  with  them.  The 
forehead  is  broad,  flattish,  and  continued  nearly  in  a  line  with 
the  nose  ;  but  in  the  older  animals  there  is  a  distinct  projection 
of  the  superciliary  ridges  of  tbe  frontal  bone.  The  soles  of  its 
feet  are  longer  and  its  heels  are  broader  than  those  of  the 
brown  bear  of  Europe.  It  tail  is  so  short  as  to  be  hidden  by 
the  hair  of  the  buttocks. 

The  strength  and  ferocity  of  the  grizzly  bear  are  very  great. 
When  full  grown  it  measures  more  than  nine  feet  in  length,  and 
weighs  upwards  of  eight  hundred  pounds.  It  is  carnivorous, 
but  when  flesh  is  not  to  be  had,  does  not  reject  vegetable  sub- 
stances. Pregnant  females  and  cubs  hibernate,  but  the  older 
males  come  abroad  in  the  winter,  in  quest  of  food. 

Ursus  Arcticus  Americanus.  Barren  Ground  Bear. 

This  animal  differs  from  the  common  black  bear  in  its  great- 
er size,  profile,  physiognorr>v,  longer  soles,  and  tail ;  and  from 
the  grizzly  bear  in  color,  and  in  the  comparative  smallness  of 
its  claws.  It  inhabits  the  barren  country  north  and  east  of 
Great  Slave  Lake,  and  extending  to  the  Frozen  Sea,  whither  it 
repairs  in  autumn,  to  feed  on  fish. 

The  color  of  this  bear  is  dusky  brown,  but  the  shoulders  and 
flanks  are,  at  least  in  the  summer  season,  covered  with  long 
hair,  often  very  pale  towards  the  tips.  It  preys  indiscriminate- 
ly on  animal    and  vegetable  substances. 

The  forehead  of  the  barren  ground  bear  is  broad,  slightly  con- 
'vex,  and  the  arch  of  the  orbit  rises  conspicuoujjly  at  the  root  of 
the  nose,  which  is  straight.     The  legs  are  long,  and  the  claws 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Moose,  p.  491. 


Reindeer,  p.  490. 


Spermaceti  Whale. 


Wolf. 


ILI.USTRATIONS  FOR  POLAH  REGIONS 


Grissly  Bear.  p.  486, 


Grissly  Bear  waiting  for  a  Man 


"P  a  Tree. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Cutting  up  a  Wiuile.    p.  7;i 


Harpooningf  a  Whale,  p.  SI. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  FOR  POLAR  REGIONS. 


Travellers  Resting^  at  Night.  ]>.  H/v. 


Crossing  a  Lake.  p.  iOl 


^  APPENDIX.  487 

more  pointed  than  those  of  the  grizzly  bear.  The  length  of 
an  individual  examined  by  Dr  Richardson  was  five  feet  two 
inches. 

This  animal  does  not  possess  the  courage  of  the  grizzly 
bear,  and  does  not  often  attack  the  human  race. 

Wolves. 

We  deem  it  unnecessary  to  describe  this  animal,  as  it  is  well 
known  to  all,  at  least  the  common  kind.  It  is  believed  that 
the  difference  of  color  is  merely  accidental.  The  canis  nubilis 
of  Say,  or  dusky  wolf,  is  a  variety  distinguished  from  the  others 
by  its  shorter  ears  and  more  robust  form.  It  is  found  at  Great 
Slave  Lake,  and  probably  still  farther  north. 

Canis  Borealis  (Desmarest.)  Esquimaux  Dog. 

The  Esquimaux  dog  pearly  resembles  the  common  grey  wolf 
in  form,  color,  and  size.  It  has  short  conical  ears,  but  its  nose 
is  shorter  than  that  of  the  wolf  The  nose,  cheeks,  and  belly 
are  white.  The  back  and  the  top  of  the  head  are  almost  black, 
but  there  is  a  narrow,  white  line  along  the  spine.  Its  sides 
are  thinly  covered  with  long,  black,  and  some  white  hairs, 
and  there  is  a  shorter,  dense  coat  of  yellowish  grey  wool,  which 
is  partly  visible.  The  length  of  the  animal  is  four  feet  three 
inches  ;    with  the  tail,  which  is  curled,  five  feet  five  inches. 

Canis  Lagopus.     Hare  Indian  Dog. 

This  animal  has  a  mild,  demure  countenance.  It  has  a  small 
head,  slender  muzzle,  erect,  thick  ears,  oblique  eyes,  slender 
legs,  hairy  feet,  and  a  curled  bushy  tail.  It  has  long  hair,  es- 
pecially about  the  shoulders,  and  at  the  roots  of  the  hair  there 
is  a  thick  wool.  The  hair  on  the  top  of  the  head  is  long,  and 
an  the  posterior  part  of  the  cheek  it  is  not  only  long  but  direct- 
ed backwards,  giving  the  animal,  when  the  fur  is  in  prime  order, 
the  appearance  of  having  a  ruff  round  its  neck.  Its  face,  muz- 
zle, belly,  and  legs  are  pure  white,  and  there  is  a  white  central 
line  passing  over  the  crown  of  the  head  and  occiput.  The  an- 
terior surface  of  the  ear  is  white,  the  posterior  yellowish  grey. 
The  end  of  the  nose,  the  eye-lashes,  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and 
part  of  the  gums  are  black.     There  is  a  dark  patch  over  the 


488  APPENDIX.  4^  '^ 

eye.  On  the  back  and  sides  there  are  larger  spots  of  dark 
grey,  not  definite  in  form,  but  running  into  each  other.  The 
tail  is  white  beneath  and  at  the  tip.  1  he  feet  are  covered  with 
hair  which  almost  conceals  the  claws.     The  soles  are  bare. 

This  animal  is  rather  larger  than  the  common  red  fox.  It  is 
playful  and  affectionate,  but  not  docile.  It  is  fond  of  being 
caressed,  and  rubs  its  back  against  the  hand,  like  a  cat. 

Canis  Lagopus.   (Linn.)   Arctic  Fox. 

In  winter,  the  arctic  fox  is  pure  white,  except  at  the  tip  of  the 
tail,  where  there  are  a  few  dark  hairs.  Before  the  eyes,  and 
on  the  lower  jaw,  the  hair  is  short  and  sleek  ;  on  the  forehead 
and  posterior  part  of  the  cheeks,  it  is  longer,  and  on  the  neck 
and  occiput  it  equals  the  ears  in  length,  and  is  mixed  with  soft 
wool,  of  which  there  is  also  a  great  deal  on  the  body.  The 
long  fur  on  the  posterior  part  of  the  cheeks  is  directed  back- 
ward, giving  a  cast  to  the  physiognomy,  and  an  apparent  thick- 
ness to  the  neck,  which  are  common  to  all  the  animals  of  this 
genus  in  the  northern  parts  of  America.  It  has  shorter  and 
rounder  ears  than  any  variety  of  the  red  fox.  In  summer,  the 
white  hair  falls  off,  and  is  replaced  by  a  shorter  coat  more  or 
less  colored.  Its  length  is  two  feet  one  inch  without  the  tail, 
which  measures  a  foot  more.  The  weight  is  about  eight 
pounds.  Though  the  arctic  fox  suffers  himself  to  be  easily 
taken,  he  is  by  no  means  deficient  in  sagacity.  When  taken, 
he  is  easily  tamed. 

Arctic  foxes  inhabit  the  most  northern  lands  yet  discovered  ; 
their  southern  limit  is  in  latitude  about  50*^.  They  breed  on 
the  sea-coast,  chiefly  within  the  arctic  circle,  in  burrows,  not 
solitary,  but  in  little  villages,  twenty  or  thirty  burrows  adjoin- 
ing to  each  other.  They  feed  on  eggs,  birds  and  carrion  of 
any  kind,  but  their  principal  food  seems  to  be  lemmings. 

Lemmings. 

There  are  several  kinds  of  lemmings  in  the  northern  regions 
of  America.  Dr  Richardson  classes  them  as  a  subdivision  of  the 
genus  arvicola,  characterized  principally  by  the  shortness  of  the 
ears  and  tail,  and  the  larger  and  stronger  claws,  more  fitted  for 
digging.     The  Lapland  lemming  inhabits  alpine  swamps,  in  lat- 


as 


*  APPENDIX.  489 

itude  56°.  Back's  lemming  is  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Cop- 
permine, where  it  burrows  in  the  turf.  Another  species  is 
called  the  arvicola  helvolus,  and  is  armed  with  a  thumb-nail. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  lemming  inhabits  Labrador,  the  western 
coast  of  Hudson's  and  Baffin's  Bays,  and  the  islands  in  the  po- 
lar sea,  where  it  burrows  under  stones  in  dry  ridges.  It  is 
easily  tamed.  The  Greenland  lemming  is  found  in  Greenland 
and  on  the  opposite  coast  of  America.  These  animals  are  all 
very  like  the  lemmings  of  the  old  continent,  in  size,  habits  and 
appearance. 

GuLo  Luscus.    (Sabine.)     The  Wolvenne. 

This  animal  is  found  along  the  coast  of  America,  from  Labra- 
dor and  Davis'  Straits  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  Its  length 
is  three  feet  four  inches,  including  the  tail,  which  measures  ten 
inches.  It  has  a  broad,  compact  head,  and  in  the  shape  of  its 
jaws  resembles  a  dog.  The  back  is  arched,  the  tail  bushy,  the 
legs  short,  and  its  whole  aspect  indicates  strength,  but  not  ac- 
tivity. The  fur  is  like  that  of  the  black  bear,  but  neither  so 
long  nor  so  fine.  Its  color  is  a  dark  brown.  The  claws  are 
strong  and  sharp.  Its.  tracks  are  like  those  of  a  bear,  but  are 
distinguished  by  the  Steps  not  being  so  long. 

This  animal  is  also  Gsalled  the  carcajou.  It  is  carnivorous, 
and  feeds  principally  on  the  carcasses  of  animals  that  have  been 
killed  by  accident.  It  is  very  strong,  and  annoys  the  natives,  by 
destroying  their  hoards  of  provision  and  demolishing  their  traps. 
It  will  follow  the  track  of  a  marten  trapper  a  long  distance, 
merely  to  get  the  baits  from  his  traps,  which  are  usually  the 
heads  of  partridges  or  small  bits  of  meat.  When  they  find  any 
martens  in  them,  they  tear  them  to  pieces,  and  hide  them  in  the 
snow.  The  female  wolverine  brings  forth  from  two  to  four 
young  in  a  year. 

Cervus  Tarandus  Sylvestris.  Woodland  Caribou. 
The  country  of  this  deer  is  a  stripe  of  low,  primitive  rocks, 
about  an  hundred  miles  wide,  extending,  at  the  distance  of 
eighty  miles  from  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  from  Lake  At- 
hapescow  to  Lake  Superior.  Contrary  to  the  practice  of  the  bar- 
ren ground  caribou,  this  animal  travels  southward  in  the  spring. 
They  pass  the  Nelson  and  Severn  Rivers  in  May,  jn  large  herds, 
and  return  to  the  northward  in  September. 


490  APPENDIX.  * 

Cervus  Tarandus.   (Linn.)  The  Reindeer ^  or  Caribou. 

Inhabits  Spitzbergen  and  the  northern  extremity  of  the  old 
continent,  and  has  long  been  well  known  ;  but  it  remains  to  be 
ascertained  if  the  Caribou  of  America  is  the  same  species, 
though  in  all  known  particulars  there  is  a  great  resemblance. 
They  are  found  in  Greenland,  Labrador,  and  Newfoundland. 
They  pass  the  summer  on  the  sea  shore  or  the  barren  grounds, 
and  in  winter  retire  to  the  woods. 

Cervus  Tarandus,  var.   Arctica.    Barren  Ground  Caribou. 

This  variety  is  of  small  stature.  The  buck,  when  in  good 
condition,  weighs  from  ninety  to  an  hundred  and  thirty  pounds. 
The  old  males  have  large  palmated  horns  ;  the  young  ones  and 
the  does  have  them  less  branched  and  more  cylindrical  and 
pointed.  During  the  growth  of  the  horns,  they  are  covered 
with  a  soft  hairy  skin,  which  is  like  velvet  to  the  touch,  and 
in  their  early  stage  their  interior  is  of  a  consistence  somewhat 
like  marrow.  They  become  indurated  as  they  increase  in  size, 
and  their  hairy  covering  shrivels  and  peels  off. 

In  the  month  of  July  the  barren-ground  caribou  sheds  his 
winter  covering.  The  closeness  of  its  hair  and  the  lightness  of 
its  skin  renders  the  latter  peculiarly  suitable  for  winter  gar- 
ments. 

Those  of  this  species  which  resort  to  the  Arctic  Sea  in  sum- 
mer retire  in  the  winter  to  the  woods  between  the  63d  and  66th 
degree  of  latitude,  where  they  feed  on  lichens  and  the  long  grass 
of  swamps.  In  May,  the  females  proceed  toward  the  sea,  and 
toward  the  end  of  June  the  males  take  the  same  direction. 
Soon  after  their  arrival  on  the  coast,  the  females  produce  their 
young,  and  they  commence  their  retreat  southward  in  Septem- 
ber, after  the  snow  has  fallen.  Except  in  the  rutting  season, 
the  males  and  females  live  separately  ;  the  former  retire  deep- 
er into  the  woods  in  winter,  while  herds  of  gravid  does  remain 
on  the  skirts  of  the  barren  grounds,  and  proceed  to  the  sea  very 
early  in  the  spring.  Capt.  Parry  saw  deer  on  Melville  Island 
as  late  as  the  23d  of  September,  and  the  females  with  their 
fawns  made  their  first  appearance  on  the  22d  of  April. 

Without  the  herds  of  caribou,  the  Indians  of  the  Mackenzie 
and  Coppermine  would  be  unable  to  remain  in  their  country. 


APPENDIX.  491 

They  form  fish-hooks  and  fish-spears  of  its  horns,  and  before  the 
introduction  of  iron,  made  ice-chisels  and  other  instruments  of 
them.  The  fiesh  serves  for  food,  and  the  skin  for  clothing,  tents, 
snares,  nets,  and  in  short  for  all  the  purposes  of  line  and  rope. 

Cervus  Alces.     (Linnv)    Orignalj  or  Moose. 

Inhabits  the  northern  parts  of  America,  and  was  formerly 
found  in  the  state  of  Maine.  Like  the  reindeer  its  horns  are 
palmated.  It  is  a  solitary  animal,  has  the  sense  of  hearing  in 
great  perfection,  and  is  extremely  shy  and  wary  as  well  as 
timid.  In  the  rutting  season,  or  when  wounded  and  brought  to 
bay,  the  males  become  ferocious,  and  attack  every  creature  that 
comes  in  their  way,  even  man  himself  The  moose  is  capable 
of  enduring  great  fatigue,  sometimes  running  four  days  before 
the  hunter  in  deep  snow,  before  it  can  be  overtaken.  It  is 
easily  domesticated. 

The  moose  attains  the  weight  of  eleven  or  twelve  hundred 
pounds  :  its  horns  weigh  upwards  of  fifty  pounds,  and  its  shoul- 
ders are  higher  than  those  of  the  horse.  The  neck  is  short  and 
strong,  and  the  head  is  more  than  two  feet  in  length,  withal 
clumsily  shaped,  swelling  on  the  nostrils  and  the  upper  part  of 
the  nose.  The  eye  is  small  and  sunken,  the  ears  asinine,  the 
neck  and  withers  are  surmounted  by  a  heavy  mane,  and  the 
throat  is  covered  with  long  hair  and  encumbered  by  a  pendulous 
gland.  The  body  is  short,  round,  and  compact  ;  the  tail  is  no 
more  than  four  inches  in  length,  and  the  legs  are  very  long, 
but  clean  and  firm. 

Its  movements  are  heavy,  and  the  shoulders  being  higher 
than  the  croup,  it  does  not  gallop,  but  shuffles  along,  its  joints 
cracking  at  every  step.  Increasing  its  speed,  the  hind  legs 
straddle  to  avoid  treading  on  its  fore  feet.  In  its  progress,  it 
holds  its  nose  up  so  that  the  horns  lie  horizontally  backward. 

The  legs  of  the  moose  are  so  long  and  its  neck  so  short,  that 
it  cannot  graze  like  other  deer,  but  browzes  on  h"gh  plants  and 
the  leaves  of  trees.  In  winter,  they  feed  on  willows,  and  the 
smaller  branches  of  the  birch  ;  and  though  they  have  no  front 
teeth  in  the  upper  jaw,  the  branches  severed  by  them  have  the 
appearance  of  having  been  cut  by  a  gardener's  shears. 

The  fiesh  of  the  moose  is  esteemed  a  delicacy. 


492  APPENDIX. 

Arctomys  (Spermophilus)  Parryi.   (Richardson.)   Pat^ry^i 
Marmot. 


4 


Inhabits  the  barren  grounds  skirting  the  sea-coast  from 
Churchill  in  Hudson's  Bay,  round  by  Melville  Peninsula,  and 
the  whole  northern  shore  of  the  continent  to  Bhering's  Straits. 
Abounds  near  Fort  Enterprise,  and  in  all  the  northern  parts 
of  America.  It  is  generally  found  in  stony  districts,  but  seems 
chiefly  to  delight  in  sandy  hillocks  ai-nong  rocks,  where  bur- 
rows are  seen  crowded  together.  One  of  the  society  sits 
erect  on  the  summit  of  the  hillock,  while  the  others  are  feed- 
ing, and  gives  the  alarm  on  the  approach  of  danger.  When 
their  retreat  to  their  burrows  is  cut  off,  they  will  hide  their 
heads  in  the  first  crevice,  leaving  their  hinder  parts  exposed. 
Their  cry  in  this  case  is  something  like  the  sound  of  a  watch- 
man's rattle.  Their  food  is  entirely  vegetable,  and  they  lay 
up  a  stock  of  it,  never  going  abroad  in  the  winter. 

Parry's  marmot  has  cheek  pouches,  very  short  ears,  and  is 
thickly  spotted  above  with  white  on  a  grey  or  black  ground. 
Its  length  is  about  a  foot,  and  that  of  its  tail  is  about  three 
inches.     There  are  two  varieties  of  this  animal. 

The  Musk  Ox.     Called  Uming  Mak,  by  the  Esquimaux. 

The  most  barren  and  forbidding  of  the  regions  exposed  to 
the  influence  of  winter  are  the  favorite  resorts  of  the  musk  ox, 
which  there  appears  to  derive  as  much  enjoyment  from  exist- 
ence as  the  animals  found  in  milder  climates  and  more  fruitful 
lands.  Destined  to  be  constantly  exposed  to  frost  and  storm, 
nature  has  taken  good  care  to  secure  it  against  the  efl^ects  of 
both  ;  first,  by  covering  its  body  with  a  coat  of  long  dense  hair, 
and  then,  by  shortening  its  limbs,  avoiding  the  exposure  which 
would  result  from  a  greater  elevation.  The  projection  of  the 
eyes  seems  to  be  intended  to  carry  the  organ  clear  of  the  great 
quantity  of  hair  upon  its  head. 

Musk  oxen  are  found  in  the  greatest  numbers  within  the 
Arctic  circle  :  considerable  herds  are  sometimes  seen,  near 
the  coast  of  Hudson's  Bay  from  Knapp's  Bay  to  Wager  River. 
They  have,  though  rarely,  been  seen  as  low  as  latitude  60°  N. 
When  they  feed  on  open  grounds,  they  prefer  the  most  rocky 
and  precipitous  situations.     Notwithstanding   their  bulk,   and 


APPENDIX.  493 

apparent  unvvieldineps,  they  run  well,  and  climb  rocks  with  the 
ease  and  agility  of  goats.  Their  favorite  food  is  grass  ;  but 
when  it  is  not  to  be  had,  they  feed  on  moss,  willows,  and  the 
tender  shoots  of  pine. 

The  appearance  of  the  musk  ox  is  singular  and  imposing, 
owing  to  the  shortness  of  the  limbs,  its  broad,  flattened,  crooked 
horns,  and  the  long  hair  which  envelopes  the  whole  of  its 
trunk,  and  hangs  down  nearly  to  the  ground.  When  full 
grown,  it  is  ten  hands  and  a  half  high,  and  weighs  about  seven 
hundred  pounds.  Its  tail  is  no  longer  than  that  of  a  bear,  and 
is  entirely  hid  by  the  hair  of  its  hinder  parts.  The  hunch  on 
the  shoulders  is  small.  The  hair  is  in  some  parts  very  long, 
especially  on  the  belly,  sides  and  hind-quarters;  but  the  longest, 
particularly  on  the  bulls,  is  under  the  throat,  extending  frona 
the  chin  to  the  lower  part  of  the  chest,  between  the  fore-legs, 
where  it  is  as  long  as  the  mane  of  a  horse. 

Musk  oxen  commonly  go  in  herds  of  eighty  or  an  hundred,  of 
which  a  very  small  proportion  are  bulls.  It  is  uncommon  to 
see  more  than  two  or  three  full-grown  males  even  with  the 
largest  herds.  The  Indians  suppose  that  the  males  destroy 
one  another,  in  combating  for  the  females  ;  an  opinion  which  is 
corroborated  by  their  pugnacious  disposition  during  the  rut- 
ting season.  The  bulls  are  then  so  jt^alous  of  everything  that 
approaches  their  mates,  that  they  not  only  attack  men  and 
quadrupeds,  but  run  after  ravens  or  other  large  birds. 

When  cut  up,  the  flesh  of  the  musk  ox  has  the  appearance  of 
beef  for  the  market.  The  flesh  of  the  young  cows  and  calves 
is  palatable,  but  that  of  the  old  bulls  is  intolerably  musky.  A 
knife  used  to  cut  up  such  meat  is  so  strongly  scented,  that 
much  washing  and  scouring  is  necessary  to  remove  the  scent. 

The  horns  of  this  animal  are  converted  into  cups  and  spoons, 
by  the  Indians  and  Esquimaux  ;  and  the  skin  makes  good  shoe 
soles. 

In  August  and  September,  the  musk  oxen  extend  their  mi- 
grations to  the  North  Georgian  and  other  islands  bordering 
the  northern  shores  of  the  continent.  Before  the  first  of  Oc- 
tober, they  have  all  left  the  islands  and  moved  south. 

42 


am  . 

494  APPENDIX. 

The  Narwal,  jyarivhale,  or  Sea  Unicorn. 

We  have  given  as  much  room  to  the  description  of  the  whale 
as  we  can  spare,  in  that  part  of  our  volume  which  treats  of 
Greenland.  We  shall  therefore  proceed  to  describe  the  nar- 
wal, which  is  found  only  in  the  arctic  seas. 

The  vertebral  column  of  the  narwal  is  about  twelve  feet 
long.  There  are  seven  cervical,  twelve  dorsal,  and  thirtyfive 
lumbar  and  caudal  vertebrae, — in  all  fiftyfour,  of  which  twelve 
are  in  the  tail.  The  spinal  marrow  runs  through  them  all, 
from  the  head  of  the  fortieth,  but  does  not  penetrate  the  forty -^ 
first.  The  spinous  processes  diminish  in  length  from  the  fif- 
teenth lumbar  vertebrae,  until  they  are  scarcely  perceptible  at  the 
nineteenth.  There  are  twelve  slender  ribs,  six  true  and  six 
false  on  each  side.  The  sternum  is  heart  shaped,  with  the 
broad  part  anteriorly. 

When  full  grown,  the  narwal  is  from  thirteen  to  sixteen  feet 
long,  exclusive  of  the  tusk  ;  and  at  the  thickest  part,  which  is 
two  feet  behind  the  fins,  the  circumference  is  about  eight  or 
nine  feet.  The  perpendicular  diameter,  at  the  distance  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  inches  from  the  tail,  is  about  one  foot ;  the 
transverse  about  seven  inches.  The  back  is  depressed,  and 
flat,  three  or  four  feet  posterior  to  the  neck. 

The  head  forms  about  one  seventh  of  the  whole  length  of 
the  animal,  being  small,  blunt  and  round.  The  mouth  is  small, 
and  incapable  of  much  extension,  with  a  wedge-shaped  under 
lip.  The  largest  diameter  of  the  eyes  is  about  an  inch,  and 
they  are  placed  on  a  line  with  the  opening  of  the  mouth,  about 
thirteen  inches  from  the  snout.  The  opening  of  the  ear  is  six 
inches  behind  the  eye,  and  is  of  the  diameter  of  a  small  knitting- 
needle.  The  skull  is  concave  above,  and  sends  forth  a  large, 
flat,  wedge-shaped  process  in  front,  which  affords  sockets  for 
the  tusks. 

The  spiracle  or  blow-hole  is  situated  immediately  over  the 
eyes,  and  is  a  single  semicircular  opening,  of  about  three  and  a 
half  inches  in  diameter,  and  one  inch  and  a  half  long.  It  ex- 
pands immediately  within  the  skin  into  a  sac,  or  air-vessel,  which 
extends  laterally  and  forward  into  two  cavities,  one  on  each 
Bide.  At  the  posterior  extremity  of  the  sac,  the  blow-holes  are 
seen  divided  into  two  distinct  canals  in  the  skoll,  and  are  closed 
by  a  valve,  one  lobe  of  which  covers  each  canal. 


APPENDIX.  495 

The  fins  are  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  long,  and  six  or  eight 
broad,  at  one-fifth  of  the  length  of  the  animal  from  the  snout. 
They  are  not  used  in  swimming  or  turning,  but  merely  to  pre- 
serve the  balance  of  the  animal.  The  skin  resembles  that  of 
the  whale,  excepting  that  it  is  thinner.  The  cuticle  is  about  as 
thin  as  writing-paper  ;  the  rete  mucosum  three-eighths  or  three- 
tenths  of  an  inch  thick  ;  the  cutis  thin,  but  strong  and  compact, 
on  the  outside. 

The  most  remarkable  peculiarity  of  this  animal  is  the  long 
spiral  tusk,  which  has  obtained  for  it  the  name  of  unicorn.  It 
grows  from  the  left  side  of  the  head,  and  is  sometimes  nine  or 
ten  feet  long.  It  projects  from  the  inferior  part  of  the  upper 
jaw,  and  points  forward  and  slightly  downward,  being  parallel  in 
direction  to  the  roof  of  the  mouth.  It  is  spirally  striated  from 
right  to  left,  and  tapers  to  a  round,  blunt  point.  It  is  of  a  yel- 
lowish white,  and  consists  of  a  compact  kind  of  ivory,  and  is 
usually  hollow  from  the  base  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  point. 
,  A  tusk  of  the  average  length,  five  feet,  is  about  two  inches  and 
a  half  in  diameter  at  the  base,  one  inch  and  three-fourths  in  the 
middle,  and  about  three-eighths  within  an  inch  of  the  end.  In 
such  a  tusk  there  are  five  or  six  turns  of  the  spiral,  which  ex- 
tends to  within  six  or  seven  inches  of  the  point.  In  addition  to 
this  external  tooth,  peculiar  to  the  male,  there  is  another  on  the 
right  side  of  the  head,  about  nine  inches  long,  imbedded  in  the 
skull.  Some  instances  have  occurred  of  male  narwals  having 
been  taken  which  had  two  external  tusks.  What  purpose  this 
weapon  is  intended  to  serve  has  never  been  ascertained. 

The  narwal  is  a  harmless  animal,  of  an  active  disposition. 
While  at  the  surface,  these  creatures,  for  the  sake  of  respiring, 
frequently  lie  motionless  for  several  minutes,  with  their  heads 
and  backs  just  above  water.  Occasionally  small  herds  are  seen 
together,  each  consisting  of  individuals  of  the  same  sex. 

The  narwal  feeds  on  molluscous  animals,  such  as  the  cuttle- 
fish, &c.  Its  whole  body  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  blubber,  im- 
mediately under  the  skin,  which  yields  a  considerable  quantity 
of  fine  oil.  The  Esquimaux  employ  the  whole  animal  in  vari- 
ous uses.  The  flesh  is  eaten,  the  oil  burned,  the  intestines 
wrought  into  lines  and  clothing,  and  the  tusks  are  used  for 
spears. 


1^ 


496  APPENDIX. 

Seals.    Phoc^. 

Seals,  like  other  mamiferous  animals,  are  provided  with  four 
Jimbs,  though  nothing  but  their  extremities  appear  externally, 
being  covered  by  the  integument  of  the  trunk,  the  fore-limbs  to 
the  wrist,  the  hinder  to  the  heel.  The  digits  of  the  fore-feet 
are  successively  shorter  from  the  thumb,  which  is  the  longest. 
The  posterior  feet  have  the  lateral  digits  either  longer  than  the 
intermediate,  or  the  whole  nearly  of  an  equal  length.  On  the 
upper  lip  are  whiskers  :  the  tongue  is  smooth  and  bifid  at  the 
tip.  The  stomach  is  simple,  the  ccecum  short,  the  digestive 
tube  long,  and  nearly  equal  in  size.  The  heart  is  formed  like 
that  of  terrestrial,  warm-blooded  animals.  In  their  dental  sys- 
tem there  are  three  divisions:  1st,  those  having  six  superior 
and  four  inferior  incisors  :  2d,  with  four  superior  and  four  in- 
ferior :  3d,  with  four  superior  and  two  inferior. 

Seals  are  found  on  the  sea-coasts  throughout  the  world,  but 
principally  in  the  northern  regions.  They  are  viviparous, 
.bringing  forth  and  suckling  their  young  on  land  ;  they  are  poly- 
gamo.us  and  gregarious,  living  in  large  families  together.  They 
swim  with  admirable  facility,  remain  for  a  considerable  time 
under  wateif*,.  and  derive  their  subsistence  entirely  from  the  sea. 
They  sun  themselves  on  the  sea  beach  and  on  ice  banks,  scram- 
.bling  upon  them  by  the  aid  of  their  flippers,  or  fore-feet.  On 
Jand,  their  motions  are  awkward  and  heavy.  They  are  vigilant, 
intelligent,  and  tenacious  of  life. 

Phoca  ViTULiNA.    (L.)     The  Common   Seal. 

This  species  is  found  most  numerous  in  high  northern  lati- 
tudes. It  has  a  round  head,  and  an  aspect  not  unlike  that  of 
^ome  varieties  of  the  dog,  whence  the  name  of  sea-dog.  The 
extremity  of  the  muzzle  is  flat  and  broad  ;  the  posterior  part  of 
the  head  is  large,  and  without  bony  projections  ;  the  upper  lip  is 
peculiar,  moveable,  and  extensible,,  garnished  with  strong,  thick 
whiskers.  It  has  no  external  ear,  but  instead  of  it,  a  small  tu- 
bercle. The  fore-limbs  are  short,  and  the  feet  have  five  digits, 
joined  together  by  a  membrane,  having  thick,  long,  black  nails 
protruding  from  the  extremities. 

The  general  color  is  a  yellowish  grey,  spotted  with  brown, 


•  APPENDIX.  497 

or  blackish,  in  various  degrees,  according  to  the  age  of  the  ani- 
mal. In  advanced  age,  the  color  is  whiter.  The  hair  is  close, 
and  does  not  point  entirely  backward.  The  hairs  are,  indi- 
vidually, stiff,  flat,  harsh,  and  pointed,  yet  slender. 

The  powers  of  vision  of  the  common  seal  are  considerable, 
though  it  sees  best  in  a  moderate  light.  Its  sense  of  smelling 
cannot  be  exercised  to  much  advantage  while  the  animal  is  un- 
der water.  From  the  manner  in  which  the  whole  external 
surface,  excepting  the  end  of  the  nose,  is  covered  with  hair, 
the  sense  of  touch  would  appear  to  be  slight,  and  the  small 
size  of  the  ears,  as  well  as  the  manner  in  which  they  are  com- 
monly immersed,  leads  to  a  belief  that  this  organ  also  is  not 
very  acute.  Notwithstanding  these  defects,  the  seal  is  capa- 
Hble  of  some  education,  learns  to  distinguish  his  feeder,  and  to 
perform  various  actions  when  commanded. 

While  engaged  in  feeding,  the  aspect  of  the  seal  is  very 
different  from  what  it  is  when  the  animal  is  quiescent.  The 
upper  lip  is  thickened  and  projected  forward,  the  bristles  or 
whiskers  fiercely  erected,  and  the  nostrils  dilated  and  closed 
with  force.  They  feed  and  swallow  under  water  with  as 
much  ease  as  in  the  air,  but  in  a  different  manner.  Under 
water  they  open  their  mouths  but  partially,  and  lower  the  under 
jaw,  while  they  separate  the  lips  at  the  extremity,  apparently 
drawing  in  the  prey  by  suction. 

In  a  state  of  captivity  the  seal  is  not  timid,  avoiding  neither 
men  nor  animals,  unless  closely  approached.  They  are  not 
inclined  to  bite  or  injure  persons,  as  long  as  no  attempt  is  made 
to  touch  them  with  the  hand,  or  otherwise  disturb  them  j  but  if 
annoyed,  they  snap  fiercely,  and  strike  with  their  flippers. 
Their  characteristic  vigilance  never  appears  to  desert  them  for 
a  moment. 

The  common  seal  brings  forth  two  young  in  autumn,  and 
suckles  them  on  shore  till  they  are  six  or  seven  weeks  old, 
when  they  are  gradually  accustomed  by  their  parents  to  fre- 
quent the  sea.  At  this  period,  they  are  of  a  whitish  or  light 
fawn  color,  covered  with  soft  or  woolly  hair,  and  when  in  dis- 
tress have  a  sort  of  whining  voice.  Seals  are  mostly  associa- 
ted in  families,  consisting  of  a  few  males  and  a  large  number 
of  females  and  young.  They  are  fond  of  landing  on  the  sea 
42* 


498  APPENDIX.  # 

beach,  ledges  of  rocks,  or  ice-banks,  for  the  purpose  of  basking 
in  the  sun  ;  and  in  line  weather  prefer  Remaining  on  the  ice  to 
being  in  the  water. 

The  seal  is  extremely  vigilant,  and  whenever  a  herd  of  them 
visit  the  shore,  some  are  always  on  the  watch,  and  one,  when 
alone,  is  very  frequently  observed  to  raise  its  head  to  discover 
the  approach  of  enemies.  Should  they  be  on  a  large  field  of 
ice,  they  are  carefijl  to  secure  a  retreat,  by  keeping  near  the 
edge  of  it,  or  keeping  a  hole  open  in  the  ice  before  them.  The 
old  ones  are  peculiarly  distrustful  ;  the  largest  crowd  of  them 
instantly  disperse  at  the  approach  of  a  boat. 

The  food  of  the  common  seal  is  fish,  crabs,  and  birds — which 
last   it   catches   by  rising  under   them  and    seizing   their    feet 
before  they   are   aware.     Feeding  on  much  the   same  food  aa^ 
some  whales,  the  latter   are   not  found   where  seals  are   very  * 
abundant. 

That  part  of  the  arctic  seas  where  seals  most  abound  is  in 
the  vicinity  of  Jan  Mayen's  Island. 

Phoca  Cristata.     (L.)      The  Hooded  Seal. 

This  seal  is  most  commonly  found  on  the  shores  of  Green- 
land, of  Davis'  Strait,  and  occasionally  of  Newfoundland. 
The  species  is  very  obviously  distinguished  by  the  singular  ap- 
pendage it  has  on  the  head,  formed  by  an  extension  of  the  skin 
of  the  front,  which  communicates  with  the  nostrils,  and  can  be 
inflated  or  elevated  and  depressed  at  the  pleasure  of  the  animal. 
The  size  of  this  hood,  which  extends  from  the  end  of  the  snout 
to  five  inches  behind  the  eyes,  is  twelve  inches,  and  its  height 
nine.  Through  the  anterior  part  of  this  hood  the  nostrils  open, 
each  two  inches  in  diameter  ;  and  when  the  hood  is  not  dis- 
tended, the  cartilaginous  partition  of  the  nose  may  be  felt  from 
the  outside,  rising  about  six  inches  at  its  greatest  elevation. 
Internally  the  hood  is  strongly  muscular  :  externally  it  is  cov- 
ered with  short,  bright,  brown  hairs. 

The  use  of  this  curious  structure  is  unknown.  Perhaps  it 
may  be  intended  to  protect  the  eyes  ;  but  other  seals,  that  live 
in  circumstances  of  equal  exposure,  have  no  such  defence. 

The  hooded  seal  is  seven  feet  long,  from  the  centre  of  the 
chin  to  the  root  of  the  tail,  which  is  six  inches  and  a  half  long, 


APPENDIX.  499 

and  three  broad  at  its  base.  The  body  is  cylindrical,  gradual- 
ly decreasing  to  the  tail,  which  is  flat,  and  tapers  to  a  point ; 
and  the  whole  skin  is  covered  with  flat  hairs  about  an  inch  in 
length.  The  color  is  grey  and  dark  brown.  The  head,  when 
the  hood  is  not  distended,  appears  small,  compared  with  the 
body,  and  the  eyes  are  large  and  of  a  dark  greenish  hue.  The 
orifices  of  the  ears  are  like  those  of  other  seals. 

The  flippers  are  like'those  of  the  common  seal,  but  appear 
small  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  animal.  Each  digit  is 
furnished  with  a  strong,  compressed,  channelled  claw.  The 
hinder  paws  are  of  the  same  length  as  the  flippers,  and  lunated 
at  their  extremities,  which  are  fifteen  inches  broad  when  ex- 
panded. They  have  five  depressed  claws.  The  teeth  are 
thirty  in  number  ;  above,  four  incisors,  two  canine,  and  ten  jaw 
teeth  ;  below,  two  incisors,  two  canine,  and  ten  jaw  teeth. 

Phoca  C areata.     (Mull.)      The  Great  Seal. 

This  seal,  which  grows  to  the  length  of  ten  or  twelve  feet, 
is  found  in  the  Greenland  seas,  and  on  the  northern  extremes 
of  this  continent.     It  commonly  rests  on  floating  ice. 

Its  skin  is  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  is  covered  with  black 
hair,  which  in  summer  is  almost  entirely  shed,  leaving  the  ani- 
mal bare.  The  whiskers  are  long,  pellucid  and  white.  The 
middle  digits  of  the  fore-feet  are  longer  than  the  others,  which 
in  relative  length  are  like  the  fingers  of  the  human  hand. 

The  great  seal  breeds  in  the  month  of  March,  having  a  sin- 
gle cub,  usually  upon  the  ice  among  the  islands ;  it  approaches 
the  land  more  closely  at  that  season  than  at  any  other.  In 
habits  and  general  appearance  if  resembles  the  common  seal. 

Phoca  Gr-enlandica.     (Mull.)      TJie  Harp  Seal. 

The  harp  seal  measures  from  six  to  nine  feet,  from  the  tip 
of  the  nose  to  the  end  of  the  tail,  which  is  from  five  to  seven 
inches  long.  In  circumference,  at  the  thickest  part  of  the  body, 
it  is  from  four  to  six  feet.  It  has  a  ro\ind  head  and  high  fore- 
head, with  a  short  nose  and  large  black  eyes.  No  seal  varies 
its  color  so  much  as  this. 

,  The  harp  seal  is  common  in  the  Greenland  seas,  where  it 
frequents  the  deep  bays,  migrates  twice  a  year,  going  in  March, 


500  APPENDIX.  ♦ 

and  returning  in  May,  and  again  in  June  to  return  in  Septem- 
ber. The  breeding  season  begins  in  July,  and  the  female  has 
one  cub  near  the  end  of  March,  or  in  the  beginning  of  April, 
which  she  suckles  on  fragments  of  ice  remote  from  land. 

The  harp  seal  is  incautious,  and  has  much  of  the  frolicsome 
disposition  of  the  common  seal.  This  species  lives  in  great 
herds,  that  swim  apparently  under  the  direction  of  a  leader, 
who  watches  over  the  safety  of  the  whole.  They  do  not  fre- 
quent the  fixed  ice,  but  the  floes.  This  seal  has  a  large  quan- 
tity of  blubber,  which  yields  a  larger  quantity  of  oil  than  is  ob- 
tained from  any  other  seal. 

Phoca  Fcetida.     (BIull.)      The  Fetid  Seal. 

The  fetid  seal,  when  full  grown,  is  four  feet  and  a  half  long.  Ip 
The  hair  does  not  lie  smooth,  but  is  rough  and  similar  to  that 
of  a  pig.     The  old  animals  are  very  fetid,  and  their  nauseous 
odor  taints  their  flesh  and  fat  equally. 

The  head  is  short  and  rounded,  the  snout  forming  a  third  of 
its  length.  The  eyes  are  small,  the  iris  brown.  In  other  re- 
spects it  is  like  the  common  seal.  It  frequents  the  ice  near 
frozen  land,  and  never  leaves  its  haunts  when  old.  It  is  solita- 
ry in  its  habits,  pairs  being  seldom  seen  together.  It  is  not  a 
timid  animal,  and  often  falls  a  prey  to  the  eagle,  being  taken 
while  asleep  on  the  surface.  Its  fetor  does  not  hinder  the 
Greenlanders  and  Esquimaux  from  eating  it. 

Phoca  Ursina.     (L.)     The  Ursine  Seal. 

This  is  a  large  animal,  being,  when  full  grown,  eight  feet  long 
and  five  in  circumference,  and  weighs  about  eight  hundred 
pounds.  The  female  is  much  smaller  than  the  male.  The 
anterior  part  of  the  body  is  thick,  the  posterior  slender,  and 
tapering  to  the  tail. 

The  ursine  seal  difl?ers  from  most  other  seals  in  having  the 
anterior  limbs  entirely  at  liberty,  or  not  covered  by  the  integu- 
ment of  the  body.  The  wrist,  bones  of  the  palm,  and  di- 
gits, are  covered  with  a  naked  skin.  The  thumb  is  the  longest 
of  the  digits,  which  decrease  in  length  successively  to  the  little 
or  external  one.  All  of  them  have  a  small  nail.  The  poste- 
rior extremities  are  twentytwo  inches  long,  and  articulated  like 


APPENDIX.  501 

those  of  other  seals,  but,  owing  to  their  length,  can  be  used  to 
scratch  the  head.  They  have  five  toes,  united  by  a  \veb, 
which,  when  spread,  gives  a  breadth  of  twelve  inches.  This 
species  is  principally  found  on  the  islands  between  America 
and  Kamschatka,  where  they  lie  on  the  shores  in  vast  herds, 
each  male  having  from  eight  to  thirty  or  more  females. 

The  Walrus,  or  Morse. 

These  animals  resemble  seals  in  the  form  of  their  bodies 
and  anterior  extremities.  They  have  a  round  head,  small 
eyes,  and  no  external  ears.  The  orifices  of  the  nostrils  are 
far  distant  from  the  upper  lips.  The  posterior  feet  are  hori- 
zontally placed,  and  have  five  digits,  of  which  the  two  exter- 
nal are  the  longest — all  provided  with  small  ihcurvated  nails, 
and  connected  by  a  membrane.  The  most  striking  pecu- 
liarity of  the  genus  is  the  tusks,  or  prolonged  canine  teeth, 
which  descend  from  the  superior  maxillary  bone  and  project 
far  below  the  lower  jaw,  serving  the  animal  as  offensive  wea- 
pons, as  well  as  in  climbing  on  ice-banks,  &c. 

The  walrus  is  found  on  the  shores  of  the  islands  between 
America  and  Kamschatka,  about  Spitsbergen,  and  on  the  coasts 
of  Hudson's  Bay  and  Davis'  Straits.  It  attains  the  size  of  an 
ox,  being,  when  full  grown,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  in  length 
and  from  eight  to  ten  in  girth.  The  skin  of  the  walrus  is  about 
an  inch  thick.  The  hair  is  short,  and  of  a  yellowish  brown 
color. 

On  land  the  walrus  is  a  slow,  clumsy  animal  ;  in  the  water 
its  motions  are  quick  and  easy.  It  is  a  fearless,  and,  when  not 
disturbed,  an  inoffensive  animal.  The  ivory  tusks  are  from 
ten  to  thirtysix  inches  long,  and  have  been  known  to  weigh 
ten  pounds.  The  circumference  of  one  twentyseven  inches 
long,  is  about  eight  inches  at  the  base. 


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